Hey man, I did a lot of researching to find out what the best grease to use for all poly is. One day I finally came across some users suggesting "Lucas Red&Tacky" as something that worked wonders for them. I tried it out it's been almost a year since I installed my full Energy polyurethane kit. I daily drive the car often, and still to this day knock on wood ZERO SQUEEKS lol. I fully vouch for the product as perfect solution as well. A lot of ppl on forums say teflon-based marine grade boat grease OR the grease the bushings recommend are the only solution yet people still report back of squeeks with using those products. I've even seen someone recommend permatec Anti-sieze haha as well as another guy that wraps his bushing sleeves with teflon tape. So it really comes to whatever floats your boat. I've been thankful that Lucas Red&Tacky has worked great for me with zero drawbacks. Other than messy hands. Hope this helps someone else as it's affordable like $5 a tube. Just I remember that people recommend to use it generously; no matter the grease. Load it up Inside and Out. Stick it all over the insides of the control arms, everywhere possible. :) The only thing shielding your grease from the elements ... is MORE grease caked on top. ;) Have fun! All in the name of PERFORMANCE
@@henryliu8518 I've never used it so i can't say from experience. I've only heard of people say that it has run dry on them fast, but you never know if those same people used enough of it and applied it as you should. So i think it's safe to say that there shouldn't be anything wrong with it other than the price for a sizeable tub. Pretty costly. A rather large tube of lucas red n tacky worked perfectly for me for like 5 or 6$ from my local Wal-Mart. It's going on nearly a year strong + with daily driving + you can see none of the grease has left the bushings too it still clearly has as much as i first put on lol. So i just wanted to spread good knowledge with people while on the topic of poly bushings and shead some light.
It was hit or miss based on online reports of people using the grease it came with. Probably matters heavy on circumstances. But i found even less reports online about people using the stuff i decided to go with yet none had anything bad to say. Worth spreading forward
Yep same shit I found with revshit, anti sieze or the bushings eat into the mounts and surrounding objects. Poly is shit when it needs to work in more than 2 axis's and that's when you go monoball, heim joint, or stick with oem rubber. Also all these companies do zero r and d and just copy whatever the better and next guy is doing hence the oversautration of the same poly product made by 10 differnet companies
I use superpro, from Australia of course, they a re fantastic, well designed, in some cases multi durometer poly mix and they fit well and perform brilliantly. You need to look about a bit more my friend.
A completely agree. Had a set of high quality polybush brand ones out of Europe that completely broke down and bound up. They’re claim yo fame was no lube needed...no dice. Replaced with Mazda Speed rubber, no regrets.
If you pour your own poly bushings straight into the housing it doesn't allow debris to get inside also you wouldn't have to lube them because you cannot
@@Bbeavis yeah but there are ways around that like finding the old part at a salvage yard and pouring another and your back in business or before your bushing goes bad buy a few of those salvage yard oem parts and pour a few and toss them in a shoe box under the bed for a rainy day im about to pour all the bushings and motor mounts for my car because it's cheaper than buying new stock and WAY cheaper than buying premade poly bushings theres a good video here on UA-cam of a guy pouring his own motor mounts might want to check it out
not all poly bushings are created equally... my sister had Whiteline bushings on her STi that were still fine when she sold the car about 8 years and 160k miles later. and if you're going delrin, you might as well just go metal rod end / monoball bushings. There's nothing delrin does better than monoball bushings.
If you go down that route instead, the parts will cost thousands, and then suddenly you have a subframe/suspension arm setup which you can't quickly/cheaply source spares for. As it is, he can swap out any component Inc subframe for stock items cheaply and quickly I don't know his budget or exact design brief but myself, I would go down this route for lower running costs / cheaper repairs / less down time more seat time
A complete custom rod end suspension setup is well beyond my DIY-er budget, and for a car that is just a weekend toy. This solution retains a lot of OEM like components and is somewhat cost effective for the performance. There are always better ways to do things, but this seems like the right solution for my use.
Loving the videos. If you ever stock these products in your shop I will buy for sure. Can you please review the bushings and brakes after the first track day.
Use anti seize that gray or copper stuff. Also the poly is good for a road vehicle and ( light ) track work . Also maybe buy a proper brand of suspension products not cheap China or some companies that claim to make the best parts with no R&D or make their parts in house . Just making money off people.
Thanks for sharing mr323. The existing Energy poly bushes were from a reputable supplier, they are expected to be of good quality, but nonetheless poly still has its downfalls.
Hi, my bushings burst quite frequently because the roads are pretty bad where I live. Would poly bushings last longer if I used them instead of rubber? My focus is on durability...I am referring to the bushings for the lower control arm (both front and rear bushings). I drive a Honda Fit Aria 2009 (4wd).
Everyone here, including Beavis, seems to be fixated on this "6 year" detail. But with a race car/non-DD, vehicle use measured in time is hardly important. It really comes down to the number of track days the car experiences. Some people track their racecars every weekend, both Saturday and Sunday while others might only use theirs once a year. The same 6 year period of time for those two guys is absolutely incomparable.
Sure but how else am I supposed to give people a general indication of age an wear? This isn't an F1 team, I don't measure and track every little thing by how many hours it has been used on track. This is just me in my garage, in which case a general indication of age is seems perfectly reasonable.
@@Bbeavis I can't tell if you're just being rhetorical or if you're actually asking my thoughts, but I'll choose the latter: in hours is likely best. Days would be second, imo. Years would be worst, I'd guess. For passenger cars, years makes sense to me. *shrug* It's not that big of a deal except that "6 years" is rampant up and down through the comments with most of the sentiment being "yeah, 6 years, what do you expect, buddy" kind of comments.
Anyone here familiar with Powerflex poly bushings? I have a '14 legacy that needs the rear bushing on the front control arm replaced. I like the stock rubber for how quiet it is but would like a little more feed back and less deflection. Any feedback on the brands products would be much appreciated! Thanks
I cannot say for the state of a Legacy, but for me us (in the MX-5 Miata), they are a large and reputable brand and generally perform quite nicely as a mild upgrade over oem soft rubber.
Did you run silicone based grease? if you want your polly bushings to last run silicone based. Petrolium based grease kill polly bushes . It's absorbed and eventually turns the bush sift causes tearing.
All you need to do to stop polyurethane bushings from binding is put tap on tape on the metal pin then grease over Can also put Teflon tape on the outside in between control alarm or whatever and the bushing Don't see the point in that last part tho 🤔
Thanks for sharing Pat. That's the first I've heard of someone suggesting teflon tape, I might try that next time i replace a bushing on one of my cars.
The bushings killed the body roll in my Miata and the handling was never right, I had a full kit and ended up removing it all for nos factory parts...Edit for sensitive lads like @Enjuku Miata, this was personal preference I don't want the poly bushings mafia to get me for discrediting them LOL...
@@Nasonix2 It's a 91, live and learn. It was no big deal thankfully Miatas are easy to work on. I think it was just because with the low power of them I like the body roll to help with drifting... Edit notice your comment removed lol, you must be fun at parties...
Sorry to say man but the 1991 mazda miata never came with subframe bushings at all. Not for the front or the rear subframe/crossmembers. It's all solid mounted from the factory to the frame of the chassis lol. Your bodyroll was effected by either loweringspring or coilovers or anti-sway bar(s). Not something like control arm bushings.. Even the poly bushings for the sway bars don't make that much of a difference compared to upgraded swaybars but I'm rambling off topic. This appears to be some kind of attempt to discredit poly bushings as a bright idea... 💡 but with a hole in the logic
Perhaps you are missing the point, there are a lot of properties of poly that are not conducive to this. I suggest you take a look at the suspension bush link that I mentioned on miataturbo for a good detailed explanation.
So you fail to realize that its a compromise for performance. Not longevity. Same argument for tires, hard tires last long but poor grip and soft tires good grip lasts short. So can't buy grippy tires and then complain that it doesn't last. Poly bushes does what it's supposed to do but its not for long term
I think you missed the point, or didn't actually watch the video. Poly sucks. It binds and does not allow the suspension to move through its motion without having an effect on the rotation, effectively acting as a spring. And, regarding your argument for performance at the cost of longevity, these bushes were only in the car for maybe 5000kms at MOST.
Hey man, I did a lot of researching to find out what the best grease to use for all poly is. One day I finally came across some users suggesting "Lucas Red&Tacky" as something that worked wonders for them.
I tried it out it's been almost a year since I installed my full Energy polyurethane kit. I daily drive the car often, and still to this day knock on wood ZERO SQUEEKS lol.
I fully vouch for the product as perfect solution as well. A lot of ppl on forums say teflon-based marine grade boat grease OR the grease the bushings recommend are the only solution yet people still report back of squeeks with using those products. I've even seen someone recommend permatec Anti-sieze haha as well as another guy that wraps his bushing sleeves with teflon tape.
So it really comes to whatever floats your boat. I've been thankful that Lucas Red&Tacky has worked great for me with zero drawbacks. Other than messy hands.
Hope this helps someone else as it's affordable like $5 a tube. Just I remember that people recommend to use it generously; no matter the grease. Load it up Inside and Out. Stick it all over the insides of the control arms, everywhere possible. :) The only thing shielding your grease from the elements ... is MORE grease caked on top. ;) Have fun! All in the name of PERFORMANCE
Enjuku Miata may i ask whats wrong with the EnergySuspension lube comes from their bushings?
@@henryliu8518 I've never used it so i can't say from experience. I've only heard of people say that it has run dry on them fast, but you never know if those same people used enough of it and applied it as you should. So i think it's safe to say that there shouldn't be anything wrong with it other than the price for a sizeable tub. Pretty costly. A rather large tube of lucas red n tacky worked perfectly for me for like 5 or 6$ from my local Wal-Mart. It's going on nearly a year strong + with daily driving + you can see none of the grease has left the bushings too it still clearly has as much as i first put on lol. So i just wanted to spread good knowledge with people while on the topic of poly bushings and shead some light.
It was hit or miss based on online reports of people using the grease it came with. Probably matters heavy on circumstances. But i found even less reports online about people using the stuff i decided to go with yet none had anything bad to say. Worth spreading forward
Thanks for sharing so much detail, as always! Great stuff Enjuku.
Yep same shit I found with revshit, anti sieze or the bushings eat into the mounts and surrounding objects. Poly is shit when it needs to work in more than 2 axis's and that's when you go monoball, heim joint, or stick with oem rubber. Also all these companies do zero r and d and just copy whatever the better and next guy is doing hence the oversautration of the same poly product made by 10 differnet companies
Have you checked out SuperPro bushes? A lot more R&D into the design of them to not have the typical poly drawbacks (Energy/Nolathane etc) suffer.
I didn't consider it this time, the delrin kit was a little more expensive, and has a lot of positives that I'm looking forward to trying out.
@Lyndon F Not much opportunity to drive lately, all the tracks are closed due to lockdown so the car is just sitting in the garage.
I use superpro, from Australia of course, they a re fantastic, well designed, in some cases multi durometer poly mix and they fit well and perform brilliantly. You need to look about a bit more my friend.
Most people add zerk fittings so you can grease components without pulling everything apart.
Indeed, that's exactly what I did in my next video.
A completely agree. Had a set of high quality polybush brand ones out of Europe that completely broke down and bound up. They’re claim yo fame was no lube needed...no dice.
Replaced with Mazda Speed rubber, no regrets.
Most people would probably find OEM rubber bushes perfectly sufficient. But yes, poly really has it's limits.
As always, love every video man. That bag sound though... some real ASMR effect, lol.
Yeah that sound SUCKED didnt watch the whole vid because of it.... ☹👎
Wow some people are really delicate.
If you pour your own poly bushings straight into the housing it doesn't allow debris to get inside also you wouldn't have to lube them because you cannot
Interesting idea, not something you see a lot. Would it make them hard to replace should they perish in time?
@@Bbeavis yeah but there are ways around that like finding the old part at a salvage yard and pouring another and your back in business or before your bushing goes bad buy a few of those salvage yard oem parts and pour a few and toss them in a shoe box under the bed for a rainy day im about to pour all the bushings and motor mounts for my car because it's cheaper than buying new stock and WAY cheaper than buying premade poly bushings theres a good video here on UA-cam of a guy pouring his own motor mounts might want to check it out
Delrin is the shit! Use it for heaps of stuff on my bikes, very very strong.
yep i use them in my pistons to keep the pin located, old school trick
Cool, I also use it as skid blocks for my splitter.
not all poly bushings are created equally... my sister had Whiteline bushings on her STi that were still fine when she sold the car about 8 years and 160k miles later.
and if you're going delrin, you might as well just go metal rod end / monoball bushings. There's nothing delrin does better than monoball bushings.
If you go down that route instead, the parts will cost thousands, and then suddenly you have a subframe/suspension arm setup which you can't quickly/cheaply source spares for. As it is, he can swap out any component Inc subframe for stock items cheaply and quickly
I don't know his budget or exact design brief but myself, I would go down this route for lower running costs / cheaper repairs / less down time more seat time
Braden McKay good point, I didn’t take those 2 into account
A complete custom rod end suspension setup is well beyond my DIY-er budget, and for a car that is just a weekend toy. This solution retains a lot of OEM like components and is somewhat cost effective for the performance. There are always better ways to do things, but this seems like the right solution for my use.
Loving the videos. If you ever stock these products in your shop I will buy for sure. Can you please review the bushings and brakes after the first track day.
Thanks Carl, will certainly try and keep everyone updated on my experiences.
Use anti seize that gray or copper stuff. Also the poly is good for a road vehicle and ( light ) track work . Also maybe buy a proper brand of suspension products not cheap China or some companies that claim to make the best parts with no R&D or make their parts in house . Just making money off people.
Lucas Red -&- Tacky is what I used. Awesome product. Just sucks to get on your hands.. (Almost as much as anti-seize). :P
Thanks for sharing mr323. The existing Energy poly bushes were from a reputable supplier, they are expected to be of good quality, but nonetheless poly still has its downfalls.
@@Nasonix2 Maybe wear gloves? It sucks to get any fluid involved with automobiles on your hands.
Hi, my bushings burst quite frequently because the roads are pretty bad where I live. Would poly bushings last longer if I used them instead of rubber? My focus is on durability...I am referring to the bushings for the lower control arm (both front and rear bushings). I drive a Honda Fit Aria 2009 (4wd).
Not sure about Hondas sorry Johnathan, my experience is only with the Mazda MX-5
Hell yea. SadFab is the way to go.
:-)
Everyone here, including Beavis, seems to be fixated on this "6 year" detail. But with a race car/non-DD, vehicle use measured in time is hardly important. It really comes down to the number of track days the car experiences.
Some people track their racecars every weekend, both Saturday and Sunday while others might only use theirs once a year. The same 6 year period of time for those two guys is absolutely incomparable.
Sure but how else am I supposed to give people a general indication of age an wear? This isn't an F1 team, I don't measure and track every little thing by how many hours it has been used on track. This is just me in my garage, in which case a general indication of age is seems perfectly reasonable.
@@Bbeavis I can't tell if you're just being rhetorical or if you're actually asking my thoughts, but I'll choose the latter: in hours is likely best. Days would be second, imo. Years would be worst, I'd guess. For passenger cars, years makes sense to me. *shrug* It's not that big of a deal except that "6 years" is rampant up and down through the comments with most of the sentiment being "yeah, 6 years, what do you expect, buddy" kind of comments.
How have the bushings been these past years?
All been fine, but fair to say the car hasn't had much running over the last two years due to various reasons/excuses.
Anyone here familiar with Powerflex poly bushings? I have a '14 legacy that needs the rear bushing on the front control arm replaced. I like the stock rubber for how quiet it is but would like a little more feed back and less deflection. Any feedback on the brands products would be much appreciated! Thanks
I cannot say for the state of a Legacy, but for me us (in the MX-5 Miata), they are a large and reputable brand and generally perform quite nicely as a mild upgrade over oem soft rubber.
Did you run silicone based grease?
if you want your polly bushings to last run silicone based.
Petrolium based grease kill polly bushes .
It's absorbed and eventually turns the bush sift causes tearing.
It was running the grease supplied with the bushes.
@@Bbeavis did you know what type of grease ?
Was it white/ clear ?
Run silicone based for poly bushings.
@@marcusbarnes5929 It was Energy Suspension "Formula 5 Prelube", it was a translucent white colour.
You had me at "You need to lube them"
That way they slide right in. *insert wink emoji here*
Would this mean polyurethane is bad for diff bushings as well ? :(
Differential bushes don't need to rotate quite like suspension, so I suspect the answer to your question is no, they are not bad for a differential.
6 years is more than ok for poly bushes BUT get SuperPro as they’ve been properly designed so they don’t stick.
Yes in terms of age, it's not bad, but the KM's driven in that time is considerably low.
Where did you get those remote controlled lug nuts, your wheel just came right off.!? I’m developing a new tyre by improving the circle of my wheel...
It's movie magic!
All you need to do to stop polyurethane bushings from binding is put tap on tape on the metal pin then grease over Can also put Teflon tape on the outside in between control alarm or whatever and the bushing Don't see the point in that last part tho 🤔
Thanks for sharing Pat. That's the first I've heard of someone suggesting teflon tape, I might try that next time i replace a bushing on one of my cars.
The bushings killed the body roll in my Miata and the handling was never right, I had a full kit and ended up removing it all for nos factory parts...Edit for sensitive lads like @Enjuku Miata, this was personal preference I don't want the poly bushings mafia to get me for discrediting them LOL...
What year is your Miata man? That's horrible to hear!
ps. NA and NB don't even have subframe bushings to my knowledge
@@Nasonix2 It's a 91, live and learn. It was no big deal thankfully Miatas are easy to work on. I think it was just because with the low power of them I like the body roll to help with drifting... Edit notice your comment removed lol, you must be fun at parties...
Sorry to say man but the 1991 mazda miata never came with subframe bushings at all. Not for the front or the rear subframe/crossmembers. It's all solid mounted from the factory to the frame of the chassis lol.
Your bodyroll was effected by either loweringspring or coilovers or anti-sway bar(s). Not something like control arm bushings.. Even the poly bushings for the sway bars don't make that much of a difference compared to upgraded swaybars but I'm rambling off topic.
This appears to be some kind of attempt to discredit poly bushings as a bright idea... 💡 but with a hole in the logic
@@Nasonix2, ok son, go to therapy...
Calm down Corod.
Try to run same amount of km with uniballs than poly bushing, not gonna happen.
Yeah, but with much better performance.
so poly bushings suck because they didnt last 20 years in your "race car" ? cmon man, its a wear item just like your pads & rotors, bearings, etc...
Perhaps you are missing the point, there are a lot of properties of poly that are not conducive to this. I suggest you take a look at the suspension bush link that I mentioned on miataturbo for a good detailed explanation.
This guy logic is that poly bushings are suppose to last for ever.
They didn't for me. Maybe 5 years of occasional track days.
"FUCA" 😆
I see what you did there :)
So you fail to realize that its a compromise for performance. Not longevity. Same argument for tires, hard tires last long but poor grip and soft tires good grip lasts short. So can't buy grippy tires and then complain that it doesn't last.
Poly bushes does what it's supposed to do but its not for long term
I think you missed the point, or didn't actually watch the video.
Poly sucks.
It binds and does not allow the suspension to move through its motion without having an effect on the rotation, effectively acting as a spring.
And, regarding your argument for performance at the cost of longevity, these bushes were only in the car for maybe 5000kms at MOST.
Heres the cheap & great fix! ua-cam.com/video/UbgEvh-rSl4/v-deo.html
Thanks for sharing.
Stop rattling the plastic bags next to the Mic!!
& waving the items out of shot while your unpacking (waste of time).
Ok sorry mate, didn't realise I was going to make someone so upset, just sharing my experience.