I seriously wish everyone used your videos as examples. No music, direct and simple explanations, camera showing exactly what is needed without excessive movement and nothing else. Perfect.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this and help others out. My abs light came on and I tried several different scan tools, including one I was told cost more than my car. The paper clip gave me the only accurate diagnosis. Two wheels sensors later the ABS light turned right off and I'm back in business with the ABS working perfect once again. Thank you again and God Bless.
Thanks Jeff, this worked on my 1998 Toyota Picnic (UK) only took 5 mins to get flash code 32 which was in your book as left front wheel sensor, i will get one ordered thanks for a great helpful video.
Thank you very much for your video! While I had a different code, your process of finding the code and clearing the code worked great. You are a lifesaver!
Yes this worked! I changed my front driver's side cv shaft and hub and bearing! It ended up being just metal fillings on abs wheel speed sensor! Just clean it up ... Did your rest method. Vala
Super helpful! When I removed the cap from my data link connector, there was no short pin inside. Would that cause issues? If so, any idea what part # that pin is for me to order a new one? Thanks!
Not sure on the part number. But I would still attempt to go through the process and just skip the short pin step. In the research I did, some people had success without using it. I just included in the video because that is what the Hanes manual stated to do.
I bought a Haynes repair manual I found on eBay used. I believe Haynes only published vehicles for the US. You might find the info you need from a Haynes 1997 4-Runner manual.
I wonder if this is the same for an '01 lexus es300? I also wonder how much you think this process would cost at a local mechanic? Thank you for the video!
I believe it should work for the ES 300 as well. Not sure if there are many mechanics that are willing to try this, but they definitely could if they wanted to. The cost would be dependent on the hourly rate. This job can be done within an hour, maybe two depending on the vehicle’s dash/instrument removal process.
@@user-2uf2kr2c as far as I know for the 97-01 models, this fix is done with the connections inside the engine bay. On the 2002 models and up, i believe It can only be done using the OBD connection under the steering wheel. And to answer your other question, those specific connections that were touching the jump wire should only tap into the abs system. My knowledge is limited beyond that.
It means there’s an issue coming from your right rear wheel sensor. It could be a bad connection, or possibly something to do with the rotor, or the sensor itself is bad. Most people have success with just replacing the sensor.
I'm a 10 year mechanic, my buddies also are full time mechanics. I have replaced all 4 speed sensors and I also replaced the entire abs module itself. No matter what I do I cannot get the abs light to turn off. The diagnostics doesn't work it doesn't flash. Just stays solid, and our manuals don't have a code for solid lit abs light. Any ideas? Lol this is nuts
Hmm. Yeah, I’m not sure why the diagnostic mode is not working. The only thing I can think of at this point is to use a fancier scan tool that can actually read those Toyota abs codes.
I have the speedometer issue on your other video and just ordered part . I did replace the speed sensor and got same code . I still have ABS light on I didn’t do the brake press reset like you did . I’ll have to try that . Is that done while the pins are still jumped ?
Yes. That will help you clear the codes. If the abs light comes back on later, then you can follow the process at the beginning of video again to determine what the code is and how to address it.
I've been trying the same thing on my Corolla II but for some reason I can never get it to show a code, the ABS light just endlessly flashes. I ideas what might be wrong?
If this method isn’t working, it may be best to find a trusted mechanic that has a specialized scanner designed to read Toyota’s abs codes. If he can tell you what’s wrong, you may still save some money if you can repair yourself after paying the cost for the diagnosis. Or, it’s possible that you have a later model Toyota that requires a similar paperclip trick on the OBD port inside the car’s cab.
@@SLACKLINEDUDE i believe you are correct about it being 13 and 34. I’m not near the book at the moment, but this was from the Haynes repair manual. I bought mine used on eBay.
Great video. Would this be the same for a 98 Sienna you think? Sure hope so just got the doggone ABS light this morning. Where did you come by that procedure? Just curious... :)
I believe it should work for that sienna, though the location of the DLC connector may be in a different spot around the engine. I found this procedure in a Haynes repair manual as well as other online videos. But the other videos were not all that clear, so I thought putting this video out may help many others going through the same issue.
@@damacknificent151 it’s possible that some variation of the number of brake pedal presses may help clear the code if the part swap was a success. If that doesn’t work, then it may be necessary to use a special scan tool that can recognize Toyota abs codes, or further diagnosis from a mechanic.
No. That is typical of most Toyotas and Lexus’ of those years. They were designed to idle higher at cold starts until the engine reached the proper operating temperature. Once they are running after a while the idle rpms will drop back to “normal”.
The location of the DLC may vary due to the year made and model. As vehicles get newer (sometime after 2001) the DLC is included in the OBD connection. Code 34 means driver side rear wheel sensor.
@@jeffharrell1874 hey jeff my car is 2000 and in the thing you put the paper clip down in there was no silver piece that you removed first..is that normal? Thanks again
Thanks jeff yeah i read the code i was just wondering if I needed to buy a short pin for any reason.. my engine light stays on too.. mostly emissions codes
When i did the process first time, the code was 31 and then I changed the right front censor and it worked. Then the light turned on again and the code was 31, 32 and 33 this time. How can that be? And what is the problem now?
That does sound odd. Because all of a sudden it sounds like 3 different wheel sensors went bad at the same time. It might be something that a mechanic should have to look at. Unless you want to take the chance and replace 3 different sensors, including the same one again. But that’s up to you of course.
*update* Today i tried the method again and the light showed me the code 32, witch it the left front sensor, so I replaced it and pumped the brake 8 times but it didn’t worked. So I pumped the brake in frustration many times (12 times I think) and boom the light turned off 😂 This car is so weird… thanks for the help Jeff! ❤️
You should be able to google it or look in the Haynes Repair manual for the list. But you will see the list in the video and probably find your code if you pause it.
There's no way that car lives in the rust belt, with that many miles that sensor would have broke off in the knuckle/hub. I'm pretty sure mine needs replaced but I highly doubt it'll come off easily. My car spent it's first years in NJ, then to Washington state, then indiana then Ohio. There's no rust on the car but it looks crusty where the sensor is. Mines a 2000 ES300 Platinum Series.
I seriously wish everyone used your videos as examples. No music, direct and simple explanations, camera showing exactly what is needed without excessive movement and nothing else. Perfect.
Short, sweet, and simple is best. Glad it helped and thank you for the feedback!
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this and help others out. My abs light came on and I tried several different scan tools, including one I was told cost more than my car. The paper clip gave me the only accurate diagnosis. Two wheels sensors later the ABS light turned right off and I'm back in business with the ABS working perfect once again. Thank you again and God Bless.
It's a good video without all the fanfare, bells, and whistles. No excessive rambling or camera jerking. Thanks for the fix!
This is the simplest video ever with great lighting n nice voice. Thank you kind sir
Thanks Jeff, this worked on my 1998 Toyota Picnic (UK) only took 5 mins to get flash code 32 which was in your book as left front wheel sensor, i will get one ordered thanks for a great helpful video.
Sensor fitted today problem solved just needed to drive it a few meters to reset the ABS Light. thanks again Jeff.
Very clear explanation on this diagnosis and repair.... clear and easy to see and follow. Thanks!
Thank you very much for your video! While I had a different code, your process of finding the code and clearing the code worked great. You are a lifesaver!
Yes this worked! I changed my front driver's side cv shaft and hub and bearing! It ended up being just metal fillings on abs wheel speed sensor! Just clean it up ... Did your rest method. Vala
Very helpful, many thanks. This saves me time and money and a trip to the dealership.
Hi! it worked perfect in my 1998 toyota tercel 4e. I already deleted all the codes greetings from caacupé paraguay!
That’s great news! I’m glad it helped, and thank you for the feedback.
I wish I had a code book, sick dude
These code explanations can be found in a Haynes repair manual.
So helpful nice one !!!!
Super helpful! When I removed the cap from my data link connector, there was no short pin inside. Would that cause issues? If so, any idea what part # that pin is for me to order a new one? Thanks!
Not sure on the part number. But I would still attempt to go through the process and just skip the short pin step. In the research I did, some people had success without using it. I just included in the video because that is what the Hanes manual stated to do.
i will try this today , mate , thank you man!
Thank for sharing!
Is it possible for you to share toyota camry third gen. problem?
(0:30) Connect E1 to TC with a paperclip (0:48) check dash with paperclip in (6:25) Brake pedal 8 times while ignition on ACC
Thanks buddy good video👍
You are the man!
Where do I get ur book for the Toyota I’m trying to get one for the 1997 hilux surf
I bought a Haynes repair manual I found on eBay used. I believe Haynes only published vehicles for the US. You might find the info you need from a Haynes 1997 4-Runner manual.
I wonder if this is the same for an '01 lexus es300? I also wonder how much you think this process would cost at a local mechanic? Thank you for the video!
I believe it should work for the ES 300 as well. Not sure if there are many mechanics that are willing to try this, but they definitely could if they wanted to. The cost would be dependent on the hourly rate. This job can be done within an hour, maybe two depending on the vehicle’s dash/instrument removal process.
Hello, the datalink connector is the obd connector? I want to try this on a toyota ipsum. Regards
No. This data link connector is in addition to the OBD connector under the steering wheel.
@@jeffharrell1874 Ok, so in the ipsum they're under the steering wheel?
Is this connector specifically for your brakes/abs? Regards
@@user-2uf2kr2c as far as I know for the 97-01 models, this fix is done with the connections inside the engine bay. On the 2002 models and up, i believe It can only be done using the OBD connection under the steering wheel. And to answer your other question, those specific connections that were touching the jump wire should only tap into the abs system. My knowledge is limited beyond that.
Ok thanks. Godbless
hanks for this video the code 33 in this video rear right sensor problem what mean that
It means there’s an issue coming from your right rear wheel sensor. It could be a bad connection, or possibly something to do with the rotor, or the sensor itself is bad. Most people have success with just replacing the sensor.
I'm a 10 year mechanic, my buddies also are full time mechanics. I have replaced all 4 speed sensors and I also replaced the entire abs module itself. No matter what I do I cannot get the abs light to turn off. The diagnostics doesn't work it doesn't flash. Just stays solid, and our manuals don't have a code for solid lit abs light. Any ideas? Lol this is nuts
Hmm. Yeah, I’m not sure why the diagnostic mode is not working. The only thing I can think of at this point is to use a fancier scan tool that can actually read those Toyota abs codes.
I have the speedometer issue on your other video and just ordered part . I did replace the speed sensor and got same code . I still have ABS light on
I didn’t do the brake press reset like you did . I’ll have to try that . Is that done while the pins are still jumped ?
Yes. That will help you clear the codes. If the abs light comes back on later, then you can follow the process at the beginning of video again to determine what the code is and how to address it.
I've been trying the same thing on my Corolla II but for some reason I can never get it to show a code, the ABS light just endlessly flashes. I ideas what might be wrong?
If this method isn’t working, it may be best to find a trusted mechanic that has a specialized scanner designed to read Toyota’s abs codes. If he can tell you what’s wrong, you may still save some money if you can repair yourself after paying the cost for the diagnosis. Or, it’s possible that you have a later model Toyota that requires a similar paperclip trick on the OBD port inside the car’s cab.
Hello, I have a Lexus ES300 1998, I had four different numbers 1334. Should I interpret these as two different codes as in 13 and 34? Thanks
Also where did you find this book or is it very special
@@SLACKLINEDUDE i believe you are correct about it being 13 and 34. I’m not near the book at the moment, but this was from the Haynes repair manual. I bought mine used on eBay.
@@jeffharrell1874 Amazing response! You are giving me hope and an opportunity to learn. Thanks!
Can you please mention the ebay link of this sensor ? i want to buy one of my car camry 2000 left front wheel sensor.
Thank you
I would just use the search bar in eBay to find it. The link I had was for a different wheel.
Great video. Would this be the same for a 98 Sienna you think? Sure hope so just got the doggone ABS light this morning. Where did you come by that procedure? Just curious... :)
I believe it should work for that sienna, though the location of the DLC connector may be in a different spot around the engine. I found this procedure in a Haynes repair manual as well as other online videos. But the other videos were not all that clear, so I thought putting this video out may help many others going through the same issue.
can anyone link a pdf with all the codes?
Does this method work for 97 toyota camry 4 cylinder? or does it have to be 6 cylinder?
I believe it should work either way
Nine didn't blink fast or anything. It kept giving me code 33 on my 1997 toyota 4runner any other way to clear it?
Have you already changed the abs/speed sensor for that wheel?
@@jeffharrell1874 yes
@@damacknificent151 it’s possible that some variation of the number of brake pedal presses may help clear the code if the part swap was a success. If that doesn’t work, then it may be necessary to use a special scan tool that can recognize Toyota abs codes, or further diagnosis from a mechanic.
And what happens if you drop and lose that little clip that you pulled out of there?
@@joebrown19811 I know of some that never had that pin and still had success.
my car is E11 corolla and not 🚫 work
Are you concerned about your high idle? I have the same car.
No. That is typical of most Toyotas and Lexus’ of those years. They were designed to idle higher at cold starts until the engine reached the proper operating temperature. Once they are running after a while the idle rpms will drop back to “normal”.
Did you have to reprogram your abs? Like to relearn? Or you just replaced it and it worked fine?
No reprogramming should be needed. After codes are cleared, all should be well.
@@jeffharrell1874 I went to a mechanic and was told that. Just making sure. Thanks and I’ll try to do mine
@@armstrong4358 i guess it could be true, but that might be more of a concern with a modern model.
@@jeffharrell1874 I see, I got the 1997 Lexus ES300
@@jeffharrell1874 yeah so just an update maybe for all, i replaced mine and did not do the programming or anything. It worked just fine.
The book that you had, is that the repair manual for your car?
It’s not the factory Toyota manual, but it’s a repair manual made by Haynes.
@@jeffharrell1874 thanks, I just found and bought one. The shorting of terminals, is that in the manual too?
@@armstrong4358 I’m not sure on that
What happens if the dlc thing is missing and can you please tell me what code 34 means …thanks
The location of the DLC may vary due to the year made and model. As vehicles get newer (sometime after 2001) the DLC is included in the OBD connection. Code 34 means driver side rear wheel sensor.
@@jeffharrell1874 hey jeff my car is 2000 and in the thing you put the paper clip down in there was no silver piece that you removed first..is that normal? Thanks again
@@furmbizz7342 it’s possible the short pin may be missing on some models. But I think the process should still work ok without it.
Thanks jeff yeah i read the code i was just wondering if I needed to buy a short pin for any reason.. my engine light stays on too.. mostly emissions codes
When i did the process first time, the code was 31 and then I changed the right front censor and it worked. Then the light turned on again and the code was 31, 32 and 33 this time. How can that be? And what is the problem now?
That does sound odd. Because all of a sudden it sounds like 3 different wheel sensors went bad at the same time. It might be something that a mechanic should have to look at. Unless you want to take the chance and replace 3 different sensors, including the same one again. But that’s up to you of course.
Oh man! I am so unlucky with this car, how can it get worse by replacing a sensor… thank you for the tip, I will try to fix it👍
*update*
Today i tried the method again and the light showed me the code 32, witch it the left front sensor, so I replaced it and pumped the brake 8 times but it didn’t worked. So I pumped the brake in frustration many times (12 times I think) and boom the light turned off 😂 This car is so weird… thanks for the help Jeff! ❤️
@@18922mario95 lol. Way to improvise!
Is right rear code =means passenger rear side ? Trying to understand the term.diy
Yes. Saying “passenger” would be better terminology since it would prevent confusion. Left side = driver side. And right side = passenger side.
My is code 62 and it has something to do with ABS module.
Sounds like you could potentially have a problem with the main computer. Is the engine light on? May need a mechanic to check it out.
@@jeffharrell1874 there’s no check engine light on but ABS lights still on.
I have ABS light on and TRC flashing
Where can I find the list of codes?
You should be able to google it or look in the Haynes Repair manual for the list. But you will see the list in the video and probably find your code if you pause it.
Mine is just flashing airbag light and abs light is just on
There's no way that car lives in the rust belt, with that many miles that sensor would have broke off in the knuckle/hub. I'm pretty sure mine needs replaced but I highly doubt it'll come off easily. My car spent it's first years in NJ, then to Washington state, then indiana then Ohio. There's no rust on the car but it looks crusty where the sensor is. Mines a 2000 ES300 Platinum Series.
Name this book Orr link please sir
Googling your code number may bring you the answer. Or if you want the book, you can purchase the Haynes Repair manual.