Equally important is winterizing your saw if it is going to be idle for any length of time. Especially if you use gas with ethanol in it. Ethanol will eat the innards of your carb .At the very least run it dry if it is going to be idle. Also gas degrades over time. I try to keep a max of 30 day supply. Personally I use etahnol free gas. Yeah it costs pennies a tank more but I have actually had fuel in a saw for over 3 months and it fired right up .Some of my saws are 20 to 30 years old and except for sprockets occasionally and plugs and air fiters are all original
Sprocket uses grease. Can use lithium, silicone based or whatever is in grease gun. Also, they make a mini push or plunger type sprocket grease gun. They're cheap, can get at Walmart less than $10.
I just ordered a Granberg 778-30 mill and mounted it to a Husky 395xp with a 28” bar and rip chain. The saw and mill are vibrating badly. Aluminum rails, milling 12” red oak at 1.25” thickness. Saw operates normally without the mill. Any advice? Thank you.
Hi there! Sorry to hear that. Couple questions just so we can help you better. What kind of ripping chain are you using? And is the oak you're cutting dead dry or is it green? Can you also clarify the vibration, is it the mill and the saw or is it just the saw? Also, if the bark is dirty it can cause the chain to dull immediately. If possible, debark where you are going to cut or use a pressure washer to clean the bark. Feel free to email lindsey@granberg.com with these answers or give us a call at 800-380-9400 and we'll be happy to walk you through all the possible scenarios :)
Good video, bitchin beard ( I just sculpted mine into a horseshoe, mama love s it) but one problem I have is with a brand new battery Echo, the damn bar is pinching on one side. Is there a way to repair it or do I need a new one..keep making them videos, brother, we're watching!
@@stephenlitzkow3387 interesting. Good to know anyway thanks Stephen ps I never really strip down my saws to that level unless there is something to fix! I tend to think having a sharp chain is more important than other maintenance things..
Why would you run the guide bar “checker” through if the chain was recently on ? If you are changing out your chain apparently it was running prior ? No brainer cmon man
Gloves my man, always wear gloves when servicing your chainsaw. I found it unnerving to watch you as you took off the bar and chain and then cleaned your guide rails and then checked the rails for burrs. Had there been any burrs you could have gotten a nasty cut or splinter of greasy bar steal that could lead to an infection. I’m not trying to nitpick I just happen to be a big fan of safety and believe that any time you are going to handle your chain and bar go ahead and get your safety on and maybe check for burrs first before cleaning the guide rails sometimes especially if you’ve been milling they can be very long and extremely sharp
Absolutely and I do this every time and can amazingly show you what you’re saw really goes through, thank you for sharing,
Thanks for the maintenance tips, always need a refresher to make sure we aren’t forgetting something. Keep them coming.
thanks for this! I don't even own a chainsaw yet, but I know I will soon. It's good to learn these skills.
Doing maintenance on my father’s old Stihl 048 AV. Thanks for posting, was very helpful
Thanks for the nice video.
informational and a great start. Bring us some more videos!
The beard....phenomenal 😍 good video too.
Thanks for the pro-tips! :)
Saudações do Brasil, parabéns Gramberg por compartilhar tanto conhecimento
Equally important is winterizing your saw if it is going to be idle for any length of time. Especially if you use gas with ethanol in it.
Ethanol will eat the innards of your carb .At the very least run it dry if it is going to be idle. Also gas degrades over time. I try to keep a max of 30 day supply. Personally I use etahnol free gas. Yeah it costs pennies a tank more but I have actually had fuel in a saw for over 3 months and it fired right up .Some of my saws are 20 to 30 years old and except for sprockets occasionally and plugs and air fiters are all original
I was told today when I bought my 291 to leave fuel and oil out of saw for extended non use?
It is best to run the saw dry. No fuel left in the tank but its okay to leave the oil in.
Yeah fuel goes bad and is the most common cause for engine failure
What is the proper tension of the chain in order for it to work properly???
Question how do go about maintenance on the idling of the saw?
What kind of oil do you use for your bar sprocket?
Sprocket uses grease. Can use lithium, silicone based or whatever is in grease gun. Also, they make a mini push or plunger type sprocket grease gun. They're cheap, can get at Walmart less than $10.
How can I get spares for my Kraftech chainsaw KT5200
What oils do you used?
Good tips thank you sir ;)
I just ordered a Granberg 778-30 mill and mounted it to a Husky 395xp with a 28” bar and rip chain. The saw and mill are vibrating badly. Aluminum rails, milling 12” red oak at 1.25” thickness. Saw operates normally without the mill. Any advice? Thank you.
Hi there! Sorry to hear that. Couple questions just so we can help you better. What kind of ripping chain are you using? And is the oak you're cutting dead dry or is it green? Can you also clarify the vibration, is it the mill and the saw or is it just the saw? Also, if the bark is dirty it can cause the chain to dull immediately. If possible, debark where you are going to cut or use a pressure washer to clean the bark. Feel free to email lindsey@granberg.com with these answers or give us a call at 800-380-9400 and we'll be happy to walk you through all the possible scenarios :)
Granberg International , Thank You. Will try to email or call this weekend. Appreciate the help.
Compressed air can damage the air filter
Great video!
Good video, bitchin beard ( I just sculpted mine into a horseshoe, mama love s it) but one problem I have is with a brand new battery Echo, the damn bar is pinching on one side. Is there a way to repair it or do I need a new one..keep making them videos, brother, we're watching!
There are bar rail straightener tools. Check ebay, Archer Plus, Bailey's or Frawley's.
why don't you also put a bit of oil/ lube/grease on/around the needle cage bearing before you put it back on?
@@stephenlitzkow3387 interesting. Good to know anyway thanks Stephen ps I never really strip down my saws to that level unless there is something to fix! I tend to think having a sharp chain is more important than other maintenance things..
@James Marquis i assume this is a joke
Do you dry shave or do you put shaving cream on same concept pay tension to life details
@@michaelsorrell5656 like spelling or grammar?
My chainsaw developed a bog🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️ I’ve never thought equipment could be such headaches
Why would you run the guide bar “checker” through if the chain was recently on ? If you are changing out your chain apparently it was running prior ? No brainer cmon man
Need a good ground guy that will have saw filled up before you need it
Gloves my man, always wear gloves when servicing your chainsaw. I found it unnerving to watch you as you took off the bar and chain and then cleaned your guide rails and then checked the rails for burrs. Had there been any burrs you could have gotten a nasty cut or splinter of greasy bar steal that could lead to an infection. I’m not trying to nitpick I just happen to be a big fan of safety and believe that any time you are going to handle your chain and bar go ahead and get your safety on and maybe check for burrs first before cleaning the guide rails sometimes especially if you’ve been milling they can be very long and extremely sharp
Yes I have got metal splinters before from the rail. Always use gloves or a paper towel to check for burrs.
Too far away
Cant see what you are working on.