Hi Dan, hoy are you? Your video was so helpful, thanks for this content! But I wanted to ask you something, when I disassembled the clutch I found that the first clutch plate was almost new because the first to metal plates (the slim ones where to thick and one of them is convex like a cone shape (the ones you took out in the minute 3:42) and I didn’t know if it’s a factory defect or that’s the way it’s meant to work. What is the right order to reassemble the clutch plates and the metal plates including the slim metal plates that are on the very beginning? Could you please help me?? 🙏🏼
Hi Ruben, do you have the Ducati Scrambler Shop Manual? If not definitely get it. It has all of the diagrams and instructions you need. The way a clutch works is that all of the plates slightly open to release the gears, then close to engage the gears. The fact that 1 plate was ok, doesn't mean all of the plates are not worn. They need to be inspected for thickness and wear as per factory standards in the Manual. The Factory clutch plates come without the spacers, so you re-insert the clutch plate, then spacer then repeat. Again, all of this is in the Shop Manual, you can search online. Best of luck.
Looking forward to that. I've got the Hyperpro Street Box on my Flat Track Pro but the front was way too hard so I cut the rhs spacer down. It's much better now but still only using about 75% of travel. I ride fairly hard at times.
Hey Dan thank you so much for the video very helpful. I'm running into a problem when I'm installing the cover when I rotate the piece the cable connects to i feel it go in its place and I know because the cover finally seals but then i can't move that lever the cable connects to anymore, i outy some force but not too much cause didnt want to break anything. What am i doing wrong?
Hi, not a problem, yes, the clutch cable was tricky. I rotated the clutch cable twice. The first time I did it I had to remove everything because I only rotated it once. The 2nd rotation was difficult but I got there. So, only rotate it twice, no more. There is a tension that is needed for this model. Also, check the factory Shop Manual. You can find them online, there are people if forums who will share it with you. I hope this has answered your question.
7:15. I just remove the basket to replace the wire not replace the whole clutch like this video. but the clutch basket swung back and its seem it didnt go back to the position it was before. Does anybody know why?. A guy told me that i need to remove the clutch cover to adjust it from inside? Is it true? Sorry im not a mechanic guy and also sorry for my baf english.
Super helpful video, thanks Dan! I have a question: I rotate the pin shaft 180 as I'm installing the clutch cover, and it feels like the pin shaft is engaging the clutch pin. However, when I look into the oil fill hole and operate the pin shaft with the clutch cable, I do not see the clutch plates moving. If the pin shaft is properly engaged to the clutch pin and under correct spring tension, should I see the plates moving when operate the clutch? Thanks!
Spinning the 180 pin shaft was tricky and I had to do it a few times before I felt the clutch engage properly. I couldn’t see the plates moving as the engine case was bolted up by that stage.
Hi Mr Dan, thanks for sharing! Do you remember the stack height of your new clutch plates? I'm asking because the height of after market clutch plates that I bought is too high and that cause my clutch to drag.. 😒
you can change the chluch with the exhaust on !!!! the real problem is the cluch wire ... it is to short ... my first clutch was finsh at 20000 km a friend of mines to .... fix the clutch and drill the howle in the ajust screw on the lever deeper so you can ajust the clutch play well .... my second was finish after only 5000 km .... i fixed the clutch 3times befor a friend found the real problem ... this is a ducati construction error
That oil is NOT wet clutch friendly, that clutch doesn't work as it should again because you took wrong oil. Shell produce fantastic motorcycle oil which is wet clutch friendly and the name is "Shell Advance Ultra 4T"
Thanks. That is what the Ducati Mechanic also recommended. I have had no issues with the oil, upon research they have the same properties. Thanks for the update!
Hi Dan, hoy are you? Your video was so helpful, thanks for this content! But I wanted to ask you something, when I disassembled the clutch I found that the first clutch plate was almost new because the first to metal plates (the slim ones where to thick and one of them is convex like a cone shape (the ones you took out in the minute 3:42) and I didn’t know if it’s a factory defect or that’s the way it’s meant to work. What is the right order to reassemble the clutch plates and the metal plates including the slim metal plates that are on the very beginning? Could you please help me?? 🙏🏼
Hi Ruben, do you have the Ducati Scrambler Shop Manual? If not definitely get it. It has all of the diagrams and instructions you need.
The way a clutch works is that all of the plates slightly open to release the gears, then close to engage the gears.
The fact that 1 plate was ok, doesn't mean all of the plates are not worn. They need to be inspected for thickness and wear as per factory standards in the Manual.
The Factory clutch plates come without the spacers, so you re-insert the clutch plate, then spacer then repeat.
Again, all of this is in the Shop Manual, you can search online.
Best of luck.
Sound has disappeared Dan. Great video. Replaced my clutch yesterday .
Cheers for the positive comment. I didn't include sound on purpose. Next video I will. Im doing both front forks. Next VIdeo.
Looking forward to that. I've got the Hyperpro Street Box on my Flat Track Pro but the front was way too hard so I cut the rhs spacer down. It's much better now but still only using about 75% of travel. I ride fairly hard at times.
Hey Dan thank you so much for the video very helpful. I'm running into a problem when I'm installing the cover when I rotate the piece the cable connects to i feel it go in its place and I know because the cover finally seals but then i can't move that lever the cable connects to anymore, i outy some force but not too much cause didnt want to break anything. What am i doing wrong?
Hi, not a problem, yes, the clutch cable was tricky. I rotated the clutch cable twice. The first time I did it I had to remove everything because I only rotated it once. The 2nd rotation was difficult but I got there. So, only rotate it twice, no more. There is a tension that is needed for this model. Also, check the factory Shop Manual. You can find them online, there are people if forums who will share it with you. I hope this has answered your question.
Thanks Dan super helpful and well made easy to follow thanks man keep it up.
Glad you liked it!
Very helpful video Dan!
Thanks!
Could you please share service manual file?
Sorry don’t have it any more. Can be found on the Web.
7:15. I just remove the basket to replace the wire not replace the whole clutch like this video. but the clutch basket swung back and its seem it didnt go back to the position it was before. Does anybody know why?. A guy told me that i need to remove the clutch cover to adjust it from inside? Is it true? Sorry im not a mechanic guy and also sorry for my baf english.
The wire is spring loaded and needs to be rotated 180deg to put tension on the spring. It’s tricky and I had to do it twice.
@@ducatidan8666 can you show how to rotate 180
muito bom, me ajudou a trocar os discos aqui, obrigado!!!
Sem problemas! Estou feliz que você gostou.
Thank dan what is glue call for cover clutch
Gasket Putty that is needed for all replacements.
why did you pull the exhaust system? It does not seem to be blocking any of the bolts and such.
I like to be thorough, getting the exhaust out of the way didn't cost that much time and its always good process to inspect.
Thanks for your comment.
Super helpful video, thanks Dan! I have a question: I rotate the pin shaft 180 as I'm installing the clutch cover, and it feels like the pin shaft is engaging the clutch pin. However, when I look into the oil fill hole and operate the pin shaft with the clutch cable, I do not see the clutch plates moving. If the pin shaft is properly engaged to the clutch pin and under correct spring tension, should I see the plates moving when operate the clutch?
Thanks!
Spinning the 180 pin shaft was tricky and I had to do it a few times before I felt the clutch engage properly.
I couldn’t see the plates moving as the engine case was bolted up by that stage.
Hola Dan, que torquimetro usaste para este trabajo??? De cuantos NM??? Y gracias por compartir tu trabajo!!!
The Torque NM settings are in the Ducati Shop Manual.
You can get Torque wrenches on eBay.
Best of Luck.
Bro yo necesito los discos de clocht para la ducati monster 900 en el salvador
I'd speak to your local Ducati Dealer for parts or how best to get them in El Salvador.
Good Luck.
Hi Mr Dan, thanks for sharing! Do you remember the stack height of your new clutch plates? I'm asking because the height of after market clutch plates that I bought is too high and that cause my clutch to drag.. 😒
Did you use Barnett?
No sorry I didn’t measure the stack heights as I used OEM plates from Ducati Dealer.
How many miles when you replaced it?
Was only 7,7Kms
How many miles you did for this clutch pack replacement?
7,700Kms
Hi Dan. What year is your bike?
2015
you can change the chluch with the exhaust on !!!! the real problem is the cluch wire ... it is to short ... my first clutch was finsh at 20000 km a friend of mines to .... fix the clutch and drill the howle in the ajust screw on the lever deeper so you can ajust the clutch play well .... my second was finish after only 5000 km .... i fixed the clutch 3times befor a friend found the real problem ... this is a ducati construction error
what is the problem??, i´m going to change the clutch with only 8000km
@@GodoyM1A1 the wire is to short ... i explain it in my first post
@@GodoyM1A1 i need 3 cluches to found the real problem ...
drill a hole in the adjust screw at the lever? I just replaced the clutch on DS..
No audio?
Didn't need it as there are Captions for every step so you can pause and see what tools I used and what size sockets etc.
Is the problem poor clutch or poor adjustment?
That oil is NOT wet clutch friendly, that clutch doesn't work as it should again because you took wrong oil. Shell produce fantastic motorcycle oil which is wet clutch friendly and the name is "Shell Advance Ultra 4T"
Thanks. That is what the Ducati Mechanic also recommended. I have had no issues with the oil, upon research they have the same properties. Thanks for the update!