beware tyre changes and always adjust the chain with bike on sidestand... garage I used didnt, and it completely destroyed the retaining washer... so much so that the chain ended up moving on to the swing arm and grinding a grove in it.... common problem apparently
Hi, great video - just one thing.. when you're putting the plates back in did you find that the 1st 2 plates(plate and 'washer') sit almost proud of the boss clutch - so when you put it back in that 1st washer 'slips' off, and getting the boss clutch fully in is very fiddly - I'm going to us some grease to 'glue' that first washer in so it doesnt slip - is this what you did?
Good to see that that you managed, I think putting the bike on a paddock stand also helps so that the clutch goes in straight with no incline so the washer doesnt fall
@@pullumoto I thought of the paddock stand too, to stop the slide - but I dont have one.. so got a big block of wood under kick stand so it was nearly vertical... along with lots of grease ;) - I've not finished yet... kinda stuck again getting the contol pin back in the clutch lifter but so pissed off with it(and myself) that I'm having a break lol... I'll drop a video/more explanation tomorrow - If I havent passed away from excessive liquid gasket fumes ;)
Good video. One thought/question, the Haynes manual says you need a special tool to hold the clutch when torquing up the bolts but I note you didn't use/need one. Am I missing something? Thanks.
The tool is only needed when torquing big nut in the middle which sits on the primary shaft and holds the clutch housing. If you are just replacing clutch pack like I did, this is not needed
I have a question, when removing the clutch the first paste is in a different direction to the other pastes as indicated in the manual minute 5.45, but I see that when installing the new ones you put the pastes all in the same way, is this because of the clutch version minute 12.39? Thank you very much for your videos.
Hi, just on the oil filter replacement etc... I see that its 42nm's for the drain plug - my torque wrench only goes to 26.5... and having consulted a few mechs re this, they all thought 42 was quite excessive - did you go all the way to 42nm's?
yes, apparently alot of these bikes had clutch tension set too tight from factory so they were getting worn much faster. There is alot of similar cases on Ducati forums
Nice Video, Just to confirm are you from Malta, If so can you confirm from where i can parts for the ducati scrambler nightshift like Oil filter, timing belts, etc. Thanks in advanced.
Hei quick question: with the new clutch set, approximately where is the friction zone in the lever feel? How far from the grip does it start to engage?
@@pullumoto Yes, I have the stock levers and I adjusted the cable to its max to get the friction zone closer to the bar. I still have to release it quite far for it to engage. Maybe time for a new cable or an adjustable lever. Thanks for the reply!
Did you adjust from both end? Even under the fuel tank adjustment cause that usually makes the biggest difference. In my case I replaced the clutch cable also at some point so yeah that could be it.
@@pullumoto yes, both ends. The one under the tank I had to extend it all the way to the end of possible threads and the one from the lever about mid way just to give it the required 3-5mm play. It's ok-ish now but I'd still like it to engage closer
presume you got an answer to this? I jammed a large flathead screwdriver into the oil filler and gently levered off... no way a few taps with a rubber mallet would get it off
Thank you for the scrambler maintanance videos. Its good to know whats ahead of me. Keep up the good videos.
Glad you like them! Thankfully Scrambler is one of the easiest ducati to work on
beware tyre changes and always adjust the chain with bike on sidestand... garage I used didnt, and it completely destroyed the retaining washer... so much so that the chain ended up moving on to the swing arm and grinding a grove in it.... common problem apparently
EXCELLENT video, my friend.
Glad you liked it 🙂
Thank you. Is this for all year scramblers?
Later scramblers have a hydraulic clutch but it should be more or less the same process
Hi, great video - just one thing.. when you're putting the plates back in did you find that the 1st 2 plates(plate and 'washer') sit almost proud of the boss clutch - so when you put it back in that 1st washer 'slips' off, and getting the boss clutch fully in is very fiddly - I'm going to us some grease to 'glue' that first washer in so it doesnt slip - is this what you did?
A couple of gobs of grease on the first washer kept it in place - after 5 million attempts without grease... only took a couple of goes with grease...
Good to see that that you managed, I think putting the bike on a paddock stand also helps so that the clutch goes in straight with no incline so the washer doesnt fall
@@pullumoto I thought of the paddock stand too, to stop the slide - but I dont have one.. so got a big block of wood under kick stand so it was nearly vertical... along with lots of grease ;) - I've not finished yet... kinda stuck again getting the contol pin back in the clutch lifter but so pissed off with it(and myself) that I'm having a break lol... I'll drop a video/more explanation tomorrow - If I havent passed away from excessive liquid gasket fumes ;)
Good video. One thought/question, the Haynes manual says you need a special tool to hold the clutch when torquing up the bolts but I note you didn't use/need one. Am I missing something? Thanks.
The tool is only needed when torquing big nut in the middle which sits on the primary shaft and holds the clutch housing. If you are just replacing clutch pack like I did, this is not needed
Im strugling with taking the cover off. What you recomend
after removing the bolts you will need to tap it quite a bit to break the old gasket
I have a question, when removing the clutch the first paste is in a different direction to the other pastes as indicated in the manual minute 5.45, but I see that when installing the new ones you put the pastes all in the same way, is this because of the clutch version minute 12.39?
Thank you very much for your videos.
HI, i did not fully understand what you mean, are you referring to the first clutch plate? yes that is different and a bit smaller
Nice to see you're using a torque wrench!
always where possible 🙂
Hi, just on the oil filter replacement etc... I see that its 42nm's for the drain plug - my torque wrench only goes to 26.5... and having consulted a few mechs re this, they all thought 42 was quite excessive - did you go all the way to 42nm's?
Yeah honestly it is quite excessive I decided to hand tighten it and it's still good after a year. My hypermotard for example is 20Nm it's very weird
Do you know is clutch issue solved in later models? I am planning to buy a 2022 model.
yes, later models have a hydraulic clutch so no need to adjust it
Thanks for the video. Good job. So, my question is: do you know the root case of premature (20K) wear?
yes, apparently alot of these bikes had clutch tension set too tight from factory so they were getting worn much faster. There is alot of similar cases on Ducati forums
Nice Video, Just to confirm are you from Malta, If so can you confirm from where i can parts for the ducati scrambler nightshift like Oil filter, timing belts, etc. Thanks in advanced.
Yes from malta 🙂 servicing parts from biker bitz bkara
@@pullumoto Thanks siehbi, I am subsribed :) keep up the good content.
Thanks for uploading...
That clutch brand is new to me, how does it perform now compared with oem.
I did not feel any difference from oem, so far so good no issues at all
Hei quick question: with the new clutch set, approximately where is the friction zone in the lever feel? How far from the grip does it start to engage?
I'd say about halfway from releasing the lever, about 3cm from the lever to closest point on lever(if you have stock ones)
@@pullumoto Yes, I have the stock levers and I adjusted the cable to its max to get the friction zone closer to the bar. I still have to release it quite far for it to engage. Maybe time for a new cable or an adjustable lever.
Thanks for the reply!
Did you adjust from both end? Even under the fuel tank adjustment cause that usually makes the biggest difference. In my case I replaced the clutch cable also at some point so yeah that could be it.
@@pullumoto yes, both ends. The one under the tank I had to extend it all the way to the end of possible threads and the one from the lever about mid way just to give it the required 3-5mm play. It's ok-ish now but I'd still like it to engage closer
不错，自己可以动手换了
Great video, where did you get the clutch from pls? Im Maltese too :)
Hey it's from from ebay, there is a link in description for the exact one I bought 🙂
How to did u get the Cover Platte off ?
presume you got an answer to this? I jammed a large flathead screwdriver into the oil filler and gently levered off... no way a few taps with a rubber mallet would get it off
Thanks bro🙌🏼
Those 3 springs gave me tough times
yeah they are a bit of a pain, thankfully I didn't lose any of them 😅