Hello JB, I watched some your videos about skyactiv engine, which are very informative for me as diy mechanic. :-), so firstly thank you! I noticed, that my engine has kind of strong blow by , when I remove the oil fill cap. It is regulary sound and currently I am facing the turbo charger rivet problem and in the turbo charger there is some oil. Does have this engine some oil separator, which can be blocked and therefore cause the blow by and oil in turbo? I can not find anything about this. Many thanks.
There is no separator, some of what you call blow by goes through the valve cover and into the turbo inlet hose. When you remove the oil cap that blow-by is normal. In the small turbo, you will always see some amount of oil.
We mounted a Webasto Heater in our CX5 2.2D 2019. Now we have air in the cooling system. Have you any advice for bleeding the coolant system - is there anything special? Thank you!
There is no special tool. I usually disconnect the thin hose from the radiator and top it up until it overflows, then warm up the engine, so you do not need to top up much. Let it cool down and top it up.
Hi JB another great video is there any way of check the timing on the skyactiv d 2.2 without taking it apart I am only getting 37mpg which is not great looking on my obd using forscan the cam to crank angle is 20° before adaptation and sorry for dropping problems on you I have bubbles in my radiator I did a carbon dioxide test which was positive so looks like headgasket I used some steal seal which has stopped the carbon dioxide but still have bubbles any suggestions thanks again for your help
If no DTC you shouldn't worry about the timing chain, the oscilloscope is the best way to check it, and reference data. Apart from head gasket replacement we never experienced any problem with the cooling system, maybe it is overheating now...
Thanks for the advice I replaced the timing chain engine run ruff at idle juddering and sounded out of time after putting it together untill I reset all adaptations then sounded ok 37mpg is really bad I use mostly motorway 70mph and not to heavy on the pedal thanks again much appreciated 👍
Hello JB, thank you for taking the time to post these videos, I can assure you they are very informative and well explained. I would appreciate having your advice on my concern. I have a 2015 Mazda 3 2.2D with 29K miles. Sometime ago I took the car in to the dealer for what they said was a PCM update. However, since then the car does not exceed 50 miles to the gallon anymore no matter how I drive it whereas before I used to manage to get close to 60. Any idea if this has anything to do with the software update or maybe some sensor needing attention? I use premium diesel 60 cetane and original Ultra DPF engine oil cause of the DPF and it does DPF regen every 170 miles or so.
Thanks. We have never had a similar complaint after the PCM update and that is in EU countries. I would make a complaint about that, but in my opinion and based on the mileage of your car there must be a soot problem in the inlet manifold which may contribute to excessive fuel consumption, there could be sth else, so the best would be to visit Mazda dealership and let the technician diagnose it. The PCM may not store any DTC but fluent technicians will quickly indicate malfunction.
@@JB_Auto In fact I am from Europe. I read that they suffered from bad injectors as well on a certain batch so sometimes I wonder if that's the case with mine although like I said DPF regens are only every 170 miles or so which I think it would be earlier if it were bad injectors and considering I don't drive it on the highway that very often.
To be honest I never heard about injectors issue you've described, ofcourse we replaced some but not because fuel consumption problem, and it was rare e.g. one out of four not all of them.
@@JB_Auto Apparently about 3 or 4 of them on another forum were having very frequent DPF regens even when driven mostly highway, no DTCs, cleaned DPF, changed sensors but still the same. Then after a lengthy investigation one of them went a step further and replaced the injectors after which he said problem was solved. But at least mine is not doing frequent DPF regens. What I can't understand is that fuel consumption changed right after the PCM update so I'll probably complain with the dealer as per your advice and see from there.
Hi JB, thanks for the video! My Mazda 6 2.2d sky-active has intermittent heavy wobbling issues when running at around 1000-1800 rpm. Such wobbles would usually disappear when I depress the clutch, or if I depress the accelerator more aggressively and hold for 5-10 seconds to get the revs higher than 1800 rpm, then everything looks normal when running at above 2000. I’ve noticed that the air mass flow is only 1.4g/s at idle (750rpm), not sure if it contributes to the problem as I can’t see any fault codes but I suspect it’s misfire - have you seen such case before?
Based on your description it sounds like a flywheel problem. I had one case with a similar description and it was the dual-mass flywheel. The wobbling wasn't heavy in that case, of course, it could become heavy if not fixed at that stage, and it was more audible when the engine was cold and got quieter when the engine was at operating temperature. I would remove the gearbox and inspect the flywheel. I'm curious about the solution so post when you solve it.
@@JB_Auto Thanks! I haven't noticed any audible rattling sounds, but I'll check again. It's weird that the problem just appears intermittently - seems on each Wednesday after like 20km's drive on that day, and when it appears the shudder seems quite heavy though and produces a near-stalling-like feeling... with accelerator getting depressed for a few seconds then it runs smoothly again and the power gets back... Not sure if that's a DMF problem but yeah worth a try as when clutch is engaged the shudder will disappear. Do you think if there's any other potential causes in case local garage don't have any ideas? Anyway I'll let you know if it got resolved.
@@user-re4xu7jb4q If the shudder disappears always when the clutch is depressed then it is related to clutch and DMF. That near-stalling experience is possibly related to engine management, airflow, and soot problems. it will be difficult to diagnose for an independent workshop since no DTCs and no reference data. Mazda's dealership may find the problem quickly and may give you good tips, I would consider that solution as well.
@@JB_Auto thanks again JB! Yeah defo needs investigation for the clutch and DMF as when clutch is engaged the shudder disappears, just not sure why the problem is intermittent though. But yeah sounds great, better leave such problem to dealer for a diagnosis.
hi, I have a mazda 6 2.2 diesel from 2015 which when the coolant temperature reaches 70 degrees celsius gives me error P0488, do you have any idea what it could be
Hi, I can not recall we have ever had that DTC, but based on a general description of the error P0488 EGR Throttle Position Control Range/Performance, it looks like either soot in the EGR and therefore throttle gets stuck, or EGR malfunctioned, so I would start with that.
2017 2.2 D at 90.000 km here I'm getting the same DTC while driving and only when I slow down after some higher revs. If I keep the revs below 2000 is seems to be just fine. It's very annoying because when the error occurs it comes together eith some SBS/SCBS malfunctions and enters limp mode and the car tries to apply the beakes on its own. I had to put the EPB in service mode. An engine restart solves the problem for a while. The diagnostic tool shows 1.7 g/s MAF reading wich seems to be low. The mechanic said it's mist probably the MAF sensor, but it's looking fine. I changed the air filter but that wasn't the cause. I suspect either the intake ore the exhaust is clogged. How can I check it without having to take everything apart?
Hi, the easiest way is to remove the map sensor and check for soot using an inspection camera. Another way is to remove the hose connected to the intake shutter valve and inspect the inlet manifold that way. If you see reduced flow of air into to inlet manifold due to an excessive amount of soot it is almost certainly the reason. MAF sensor test is very important due to frequent malfunction.
@@JB_Auto thanks. The MAP sensor was clogged but the sooth wasn't sticky and came off relatively easy with a toothpick and an air compressor. The EGR pipe had about 3-4 millimeters of dry sooth and the mechanic said it's acceptable. He's not familiar with this engine so I took it with a grain of salt. I'm getting the P0101 so will swap my MAF sensor with a friend who has the same model to exclude that possibility.
@@arpad-istvanozsvath6195 Yes that's good idea check also possible causes I mentioned at the beginning of the video. P0101 can be triggered even though you have so called acceptable amount of soot. Sometimes it's a lengthy process of diagnosis that's also depends on engine condition.
Hi jb can a blocked turbo pressure sensor and pipes cause low maf readings because turbo pressure plugged in maf reads 1.5 g/s and same sensor unplugged reads 5 g/ how are these to sensor related
@JB_Auto ok thanks after changing it still getting same readings how do I reset the sensor. Iv got 2 maf reading on the diagnostic im using one is reading at 5 g/s and the other maf reading is around 1.5 g/s
@@KhanKhan-lw8fw "After changing it" means what? One reading is probably MAF_DSD which means desired and the other is actual MAF which shows what flow is at the moment of testing.
Approximately 5g/s, I would recommend looking at the voltage instead, as you can see the Mass Air Flow in grams per second is less legible than the voltage.
@@KhanKhan-lw8fw Can be slightly out of specs and then will not trigger any DTC but you should notice some symptoms, like engine stalling, and rough idle. I wouldn't replace it, now you have good lookup data, to diagnose it.
Really, really informative - thanks for posting
Hello JB, I watched some your videos about skyactiv engine, which are very informative for me as diy mechanic. :-), so firstly thank you! I noticed, that my engine has kind of strong blow by , when I remove the oil fill cap. It is regulary sound and currently I am facing the turbo charger rivet problem and in the turbo charger there is some oil. Does have this engine some oil separator, which can be blocked and therefore cause the blow by and oil in turbo? I can not find anything about this. Many thanks.
There is no separator, some of what you call blow by goes through the valve cover and into the turbo inlet hose. When you remove the oil cap that blow-by is normal. In the small turbo, you will always see some amount of oil.
We mounted a Webasto Heater in our CX5 2.2D 2019. Now we have air in the cooling system. Have you any advice for bleeding the coolant system - is there anything special? Thank you!
There is no special tool. I usually disconnect the thin hose from the radiator and top it up until it overflows, then warm up the engine, so you do not need to top up much.
Let it cool down and top it up.
@@JB_Auto Thank you, i really appreciate this.
Hi i have air Flow mass 0.6 what cause so low cheers
Hi JB another great video is there any way of check the timing on the skyactiv d 2.2 without taking it apart I am only getting 37mpg which is not great looking on my obd using forscan the cam to crank angle is 20° before adaptation and sorry for dropping problems on you I have bubbles in my radiator I did a carbon dioxide test which was positive so looks like headgasket I used some steal seal which has stopped the carbon dioxide but still have bubbles any suggestions thanks again for your help
If no DTC you shouldn't worry about the timing chain, the oscilloscope is the best way to check it, and reference data.
Apart from head gasket replacement we never experienced any problem with the cooling system, maybe it is overheating now...
Thanks for the advice I replaced the timing chain engine run ruff at idle juddering and sounded out of time after putting it together untill I reset all adaptations then sounded ok 37mpg is really bad I use mostly motorway 70mph and not to heavy on the pedal thanks again much appreciated 👍
Hello JB, thank you for taking the time to post these videos, I can assure you they are very informative and well explained. I would appreciate having your advice on my concern. I have a 2015 Mazda 3 2.2D with 29K miles. Sometime ago I took the car in to the dealer for what they said was a PCM update. However, since then the car does not exceed 50 miles to the gallon anymore no matter how I drive it whereas before I used to manage to get close to 60. Any idea if this has anything to do with the software update or maybe some sensor needing attention? I use premium diesel 60 cetane and original Ultra DPF engine oil cause of the DPF and it does DPF regen every 170 miles or so.
Thanks. We have never had a similar complaint after the PCM update and that is in EU countries. I would make a complaint about that, but in my opinion and based on the mileage of your car there must be a soot problem in the inlet manifold which may contribute to excessive fuel consumption, there could be sth else, so the best would be to visit Mazda dealership and let the technician diagnose it. The PCM may not store any DTC but fluent technicians will quickly indicate malfunction.
@@JB_Auto In fact I am from Europe. I read that they suffered from bad injectors as well on a certain batch so sometimes I wonder if that's the case with mine although like I said DPF regens are only every 170 miles or so which I think it would be earlier if it were bad injectors and considering I don't drive it on the highway that very often.
To be honest I never heard about injectors issue you've described, ofcourse we replaced some but not because fuel consumption problem, and it was rare e.g. one out of four not all of them.
@@JB_Auto Apparently about 3 or 4 of them on another forum were having very frequent DPF regens even when driven mostly highway, no DTCs, cleaned DPF, changed sensors but still the same. Then after a lengthy investigation one of them went a step further and replaced the injectors after which he said problem was solved. But at least mine is not doing frequent DPF regens. What I can't understand is that fuel consumption changed right after the PCM update so I'll probably complain with the dealer as per your advice and see from there.
Hi JB, thanks for the video! My Mazda 6 2.2d sky-active has intermittent heavy wobbling issues when running at around 1000-1800 rpm. Such wobbles would usually disappear when I depress the clutch, or if I depress the accelerator more aggressively and hold for 5-10 seconds to get the revs higher than 1800 rpm, then everything looks normal when running at above 2000. I’ve noticed that the air mass flow is only 1.4g/s at idle (750rpm), not sure if it contributes to the problem as I can’t see any fault codes but I suspect it’s misfire - have you seen such case before?
Based on your description it sounds like a flywheel problem. I had one case with a similar description and it was the dual-mass flywheel. The wobbling wasn't heavy in that case, of course, it could become heavy if not fixed at that stage, and it was more audible when the engine was cold and got quieter when the engine was at operating temperature. I would remove the gearbox and inspect the flywheel. I'm curious about the solution so post when you solve it.
@@JB_Auto Thanks! I haven't noticed any audible rattling sounds, but I'll check again. It's weird that the problem just appears intermittently - seems on each Wednesday after like 20km's drive on that day, and when it appears the shudder seems quite heavy though and produces a near-stalling-like feeling... with accelerator getting depressed for a few seconds then it runs smoothly again and the power gets back...
Not sure if that's a DMF problem but yeah worth a try as when clutch is engaged the shudder will disappear. Do you think if there's any other potential causes in case local garage don't have any ideas? Anyway I'll let you know if it got resolved.
@@user-re4xu7jb4q If the shudder disappears always when the clutch is depressed then it is related to clutch and DMF. That near-stalling experience is possibly related to engine management, airflow, and soot problems. it will be difficult to diagnose for an independent workshop since no DTCs and no reference data. Mazda's dealership may find the problem quickly and may give you good tips, I would consider that solution as well.
@@JB_Auto thanks again JB! Yeah defo needs investigation for the clutch and DMF as when clutch is engaged the shudder disappears, just not sure why the problem is intermittent though. But yeah sounds great, better leave such problem to dealer for a diagnosis.
hi, I have a mazda 6 2.2 diesel from 2015 which when the coolant temperature reaches 70 degrees celsius gives me error P0488, do you have any idea what it could be
Hi, I can not recall we have ever had that DTC, but based on a general description of the error P0488 EGR Throttle Position Control Range/Performance, it looks like either soot in the EGR and therefore throttle gets stuck, or EGR malfunctioned, so I would start with that.
2017 2.2 D at 90.000 km here I'm getting the same DTC while driving and only when I slow down after some higher revs. If I keep the revs below 2000 is seems to be just fine. It's very annoying because when the error occurs it comes together eith some SBS/SCBS malfunctions and enters limp mode and the car tries to apply the beakes on its own. I had to put the EPB in service mode.
An engine restart solves the problem for a while.
The diagnostic tool shows 1.7 g/s MAF reading wich seems to be low. The mechanic said it's mist probably the MAF sensor, but it's looking fine. I changed the air filter but that wasn't the cause. I suspect either the intake ore the exhaust is clogged. How can I check it without having to take everything apart?
Hi, the easiest way is to remove the map sensor and check for soot using an inspection camera. Another way is to remove the hose connected to the intake shutter valve and inspect the inlet manifold that way. If you see reduced flow of air into to inlet manifold due to an excessive amount of soot it is almost certainly the reason.
MAF sensor test is very important due to frequent malfunction.
@@JB_Auto thanks. The MAP sensor was clogged but the sooth wasn't sticky and came off relatively easy with a toothpick and an air compressor. The EGR pipe had about 3-4 millimeters of dry sooth and the mechanic said it's acceptable. He's not familiar with this engine so I took it with a grain of salt. I'm getting the P0101 so will swap my MAF sensor with a friend who has the same model to exclude that possibility.
@@arpad-istvanozsvath6195 Yes that's good idea check also possible causes I mentioned at the beginning of the video. P0101 can be triggered even though you have so called acceptable amount of soot. Sometimes it's a lengthy process of diagnosis that's also depends on engine condition.
Hi jb can a blocked turbo pressure sensor and pipes cause low maf readings because turbo pressure plugged in maf reads 1.5 g/s and same sensor unplugged reads 5 g/ how are these to sensor related
You probably talking about exhaust pressure sensor, yes it will change readings of MAF
@JB_Auto ok thanks after changing it still getting same readings how do I reset the sensor. Iv got 2 maf reading on the diagnostic im using one is reading at 5 g/s and the other maf reading is around 1.5 g/s
@@KhanKhan-lw8fw "After changing it" means what? One reading is probably MAF_DSD which means desired and the other is actual MAF which shows what flow is at the moment of testing.
@JB_Auto ok thanks jb. What should injector reading be on mazda6 2.2skyactiv-d. And if injectors are faulty what symptoms can it cause
Hi I’m getting p0102:00-AF and p0102-00, says it is circuit of mass or volume air flow sensor A is low
How many miles you done? Could be a carboned up egr/intake, could be a worn exhaust camshaft/rockers/tappets
So 5 g/s is a good reading at idle
Approximately 5g/s, I would recommend looking at the voltage instead, as you can see the Mass Air Flow in grams per second is less legible than the voltage.
@JB_Auto or the best thing is to replace it lol. Can the maf be faulty with no codes showing
@@KhanKhan-lw8fw Can be slightly out of specs and then will not trigger any DTC but you should notice some symptoms, like engine stalling, and rough idle. I wouldn't replace it, now you have good lookup data, to diagnose it.
@JB_Auto hi jb when the car changes gears the revs go up and down before it changes gears automatic transmission. Heavy fuel consumption
I've never had that issue before, if I encounter such a case I will post it.