MERCEDES BENZ TIMING CHAIN & GUIDE RAIL & TENSIONER REPLACEMENT
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- Опубліковано 13 вер 2014
- Avoid catastrophic engine failure by maintaining your timing chain. The plastic chain guides, sprockets, pins, tensioner and chain can all be renewed through the valve covers, leaving the engine in place. Here is a simple step by step showing my first time through the process that hopefully shows you can do it without error.
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I know it’s been 6 years, but thank you so much for making this video! Still the best tutorial for change replacement on the old MB V8s
excellent video. Straight to the point. No bloviating.
This guy's taste in music is all over the place!!
After watching this video several times, I just noticed the WTF at 18:20 ...subtle brilliance!!!
Also 17:25
Advice for anyone reading this. I' worked as an "A" MB master tech for 18 years. I've skipped through this video since I've done over one thousand of these jobs professionally.
First off, do not use plastic ties to hold the chain down, there's a special tool that bolts to the front cam tower to hold the chain down.... get it, and use it. 2nd, put rags under the cam gear when grinding the link, and also when removing and installing the master link clips.
You can also get a chain with a rivetable master link, which is a much more secure chain. However, you will need the crimping tool for that. Clip type master links are ok, but make damn sure the clip(s) are in the groove with the closed end facing the direction of travel.
War horse thanks for the tips. Do you still do these chains I need to change mine on a 1991 420 SEL. Please provide email if you do. Thanks
@@charlestimmis273 Sorry, no I don't. I still have all the tools,however, not physically able to do this kind of work anymore.
Thank you for the insight! I’m about to change the timing chain in my ‘73 450 SLC this weekend. What’s the tool called to hold the chain in place?
@@mjrmedia33 There's no technical name for the tool. Look under, "timing chain hold down tool for M116-M117 engines. I believe you can get one from Assenmacher, or AST. (If they're still in business.) Get the all steel one, the plastic ones are junk. Be aware that the tool is rather expensive for a one time job. You can use vice grips to hold the chain on the gear. (using the gear holes) Also make sure to replace the tensioner before running in the new chain, and check all rails.
@@warhorse1956 I’ll most likely just use the vice grips. Saw that in another video as well. Also, how do I check if the tensioner is good? This car had been sitting for 8 years and I revived it with an all new fuel system (injectors, pump, filter, pressure regulators) and spark plugs. It sounded very strong but then I heard a rattle and when I accelerated it went away. Forums said to check the stretch of the chain and it was 20 degrees ATDC. Should I change the tensioner too? I’m changing the sprocket gears, chain and tensioner lever this weekend for sure.
Man!! First, very funny guy. I’m saving this video. I’m gonna do mine this winter
This video you did was exceptional and although I have 82 380SL, this helped a lot! Thanks and great job!
I've watched this video 3 times and I don't own a M-B! Such a methodical explanation to a tedious job. Well done.
best tutorial out there for this job, thanks man!
The best tutorial i have never seen before. Thanks!
I've replaced several Mercedes timing chains (Diesels) and riveted the master link in instead of using a clip. There is even a special tool you can use to do the riveting process properly. Great video by the way...
You saved me!!! I am still amazed!!! Thank you from Canada!!
Thank you very much for producing and sharing this video!!
It is the best and most detailed DIY-video about changing timing chain, guide rails and tensioner of a m117/m116-engine that I could found on the web.
More of that, please! ; )
Greetings from Germany!
Thank for this video.Very informative.Most videos out there don't go in to detail such as how to remove the pins.
You are an excellent mechanic and teacher
Thank you so much for this video, I've just bought a 450 SLC and i've been dreading doing this but your video makes everything very clear and goes into every little detail unlike all the other videos on this job that I have seen. Good Job :-)
Learned much from this video and great presentation! Just bought a 1973 450 SLC. I'll be changing the chain ASAP! Thanks so much!
I own old Mercedes for eight years and after lots and lots of videos and tutorials, I've never seen one as good as yours. Thank you so much for all the effort. It's a tedious job, and filming and explaining everything simply demands twice the effort. You really was a angel, because before watching this video I was very skeptical about getting a M117 SL (i own two M110's Benzes) but now I know it's a "doable" job. Thanks so much again!!
Excellent how-to video. I don't have a V8 MB, I've a 190E 2.6, but I watched the entire video just because it's very informative and I can always learn new things... thanks for sharing.
THANK YOU SO MUCH for this. I was dreading my chain replacement (87 560SL)
I will check back when I finish :)
I just replaced my chain, guides, tensioner on my 380SL with this video. So helpful
I need to do this to mine, any tips? Was yours a double roller or a single?
Awesome info. Just got a 85 with 93k. Will replace a soon as possible. Your old chain said it all.
Great informative video.
I just bought a 1982 SL380 . I haven't checked yet to see if my SL380 still has the single row (I've been extremely busy) but i can change it now, if I need to ; thanks to you. I can tell you're experienced and probably have changed several .
I'm very thankful that you took time to make a video of this important procedure and to explain the details . As you were changing the chain , I was thinking of how I wished you could change mine .
I noticed the lettering "WTF" (Great sense of humor )that you wrote with the chain and I was thinking if anyone else noticed it .
Thank you again.
Best
Regards
EXCELLENT video, very well done. I wish you were my neighbor so I could pay you to do this on my 450 SLC. I was very impressed with your workmanship and work habits.Nicely done and a nice car as well.
Thank you
You are the man I could not have done this job without you.
You are the man 👍
Just one word: Excellent
Who could dislike this video, weird. Good job!
just done 350sl m116 engine , eBay tool broke , so used a slide hammer , we had everything forward of the engine out , for space . mark everything , photograph , and notes . take your time , don't rush . be aware of "whip" with the camshafts . check your timing marks when done , they will never be perfect ( they can't be) it isn't hard to do this job.
holding pins have internal 6mm thread , to attach to slide hammer .
AND Thank You autosick for the video .
You're incredible! What a daunting task.
perfect mechanic, very good Video!!
Ray, thanks for the video. One caveat: If you own a 1975-1976 450SL you have some extra steps. One of the three 6mm Allen head bolts attaching the cam chain tensioner to the block is blocked by the exhaust manifold. You must drop the right exhaust header pipe and remove the intake manifold. Fun stuff as there is virtually no clearance to get at the nuts on the underside of the manifold. Lots of Kroil, patience and stubby 12mm wrenches. Just loosen the four bottom nuts, remove the upper bolts and the manifold will lift off as the bottom flanges are slotted. These were the two years they used the catalytic converters up top....if you're feeling adventuresome, replace both sides with the later exhaust manifolds and eliminate the upper cats as they are an unnecessary source of heat. Add to your parts list at least four exhaust manifold gaskets. Amazingly nothing broke or stripped for me. Good luck to you.
One more thing: Make it easier on yourself and disassemble the cam chain tensioner to reinstall the new one on the block. This way you don't fight the tension to line up your three bolts which is at a funky angle. Under the large nut is an aluminum sealing washer and the spring. There is plenty of room to reinstall the spring, washer and cap after the tensioner is bolted down.
This same procedure was done on an episode of Wheeler Dealers on a 560SL. Except Ed China had the engine out of the car and a rather expensive looking tool to lock down the chain......Ray's zip ties cost #$1 and they work great.. Ed still only replaced the upper guides, upper sprockets and the chain and tensioner. To do the job properly and get to the remaining three guides, crank sprocket and the distributor sprocket you need to take the whole timing cover off which is best done with the engine removed. Not everyone has the capacity or time to do this, but if you are going to take your car up over 200K, you won't be able to get away with the partial job outlined by Ray and Ed China. Or if you are ultra anal, pull the engine anyway and refresh the whole front case including gaskets and seals.....seals.....seals....and more seals from the transmission forward.
Excellent work and video, thanks so much!. Maybe now I dare to do it on my 450 SLC.
Great video it will save me alot of work.
Felicitaciones por el didáctico y buen trabajo!!!!!!!
This is awesome video. Thank you so much for sharing!!
Very factual and easy to follow. Thankyou
Great video, like your humor!
The procedure in the Mercedes Service Manual uses a small slide hammer to remove the guide rail pins from the cylinder heads but I like the removal tool you got off eBay better.
Thank you for the tutorial!
Super video, I love your car.!
very helpful video, I've got to do mine soon
I bought an 88 560SL IN 2010. I was told it was rebuilt 70,000 before I bought it. It had about 225,000 on it, I currently have 250,000. I've had some minor repair/maintanence, but haven't had the timing chain replaced. I was surprised how loose it was on the right side. Also found a cam lobe worn on the same side nearest the firewall. The cars in pretty good shape as it was a one owner and a California car. Just not sure if I want to tackle such a large job. First concern is the timing chain, and your incredible video gives me a calm confidence..... Thanks !
This is one well done DIY video. I may suggest having a strong earth magnet at the end of a metal rod, in case you drop a socket or one of those 12:35 inside the engine
Very nice video and great music🎶
Great Video, very nice car.....I just bought a 560SL with 116k and I'll be pulling the valve covers to see if the guides and chain are original or not....I'm expecting to be doing this job in the near future :-)
autosick, thank you for the video. It was extremely helpful for changing the chain and guides in my 80 450slc. Interestingly, the chain on my car had a master link that used one of the one-piece retainers and appeared to have the original guides. The guides had 1979 mold dates and significant wear grooves from the chain. The curved tensioner rail was worn more than half way through the plastic guide. Has anyone else seen this? I'm guessing the chain was replaced earlier on in the car's life without removing the guides. The car shows a little over 130k mi.
I love your diy video! A big job but very well done! I wish you live close-by where I am, then I would be able to have you service all of our family cars. You seems to be a well rounded mechanic. Wish I could contact or meet you.
Thanks for very good information.
Molto interessante e istruttivo
Great Video !! I'm looking to understand the procedure for valve stem seals on a 380sl with dual timing chain sprockets...
Excellent video, I have 420 SEL, very similar layout. I should be able to replace chain by myself saving some $$$
Thank you!!!
Great job. I have done numerous M116/M117 chain swaps and this is a great instructional video. My only recommendation is to buy the tool to pull the rockers and keep them in the correct position. It makes the chain roll in like butter. It looked like your chain had no stretch at all.
Also for what its worth, I would charge 8 hours labor for this job
I was gonna replace the lower guides on mine, which require removing the upper oil pan and timing cover, so far I have crank pulley bolt off, I bought the same parts, which was a search since you need to buy the chain separately from the kits which only have single row chains, the sprockets from EBay and I’d recommend replacing the water pump since for some reason the cut out to get the last bolt from the pump was too high which required to unbolt the crank bolt, found the pump to be corroded since my 380sl kinda overheats at times
good job
In order to eliminate the chain jump, you should have removed the rocker arms first. When the rocker arms are removed there will be no compression on the engine and it will be much easier to turn it over. You will also have an even flow of the chain onto the sprockets and no chance of missing any links. Just be sure you mark each rocker arm I for intake and E for exhaust for each cylinder one thru eight, and put then back where they were initially. This is not hard to do it is just a little extra work and time involved. IMHO certainly worth the extra effort.
One more thing as long as you had the valve covers off I would also replace the plastic holding clips that hold the oil tubes on the cam shaft. These clips are not expansive, but you have to be really really careful when prying up on them so that you don't bend the tubes.
thanks for very informative video and thanks for sharing it. Can you please tell me how to remove the tensioner. I have a hard time removing the 3rd bolt. gently appreciate if you can help me.
You the man! Can you come to the UK and do my W126 timing chain. I'll pay you :)
Thank you for this great and informative video. I'm assuming I can use this video to change the timing chain in my 1982 SL380 R107. I'm assuming the process is similar , however I will be changing from the single row , to the double. I am aware the sprockets and related parts will have to be changed .Is there any tips or advice you could offer in helping with this process ? Thank you again for taking time to film and explain this timing chain replacement process.
Best
Regards
Amazing ! I have a question. Every time I turn the camshaft on top they click and pass the markings. I cant get it to stay on the mark. The LEFT one looking at the car which is the Passenger Side. what do I have to do? Line up Passenger and Driver side, Like up the sprocket for the distributor and like up TDC with the middle hub correct? also what does it mean if the pin on the Chain Tensioner is not flush with the outside of the engine block? Should I also order a new tensioner? Please let me know
Thanks for making such a thorough video! If you're still monitoring, just wondering: what were you adjusting at 28:50? Thanks!
Superb video. Could you provide a list of parts numbers with special tools needed. Many thanks
Nice job, and very informative =) Even told all torques, nice !! My 500 SEC, 1984, has about 100000 miles, when they recommend to change a timing chain?? The engine before, bluw up, was driving with too little oil, stupid me, and chain jumped, bend couple valves, on left side??, and did a mark a piston. Found engine and transmission, 1985 500 SEL, paid only $1000 for it, had about 96000 miles, and paid my buddy $500 to take old one out, and put newer engine in! Now should replace timing chain, how much MB original cost, with guide rails and new tensioner?? Thanks again , youtheman !
Impressive my friend and not for everyone so congratulations to your mechanical ability- Nice car, was that an old Lincoln on your other lift?
17:53 WOW! is right
is the method the same if you're also doing a conversion from single row to double row chain on a 380sl? Or are there extra steps for that?
You're a total pro. Wanna do my 280E?
Respect ++
Usually the reason to replace chains is chain stretch which causes wear of guides and sprockets.
I didn't notice any stretch of this chain, so I was wondering why you replaced it?
I have an important question to ask about the timing chain tensioner for my 1985 380SL that had a Febi I replaced with a Mercedes Brand after watching this and other videos. The new Mercedes Brand is missing the bleed hole between the inside chambers that the Febi had. Ironically.. there is a small hole opposite where the hole was on the Febi that apparently leads to no where. Do I have a factory defect from Mercedes.. or is the hole's absence an upgrade.. or is it correct that there should be no bleed holes between chambers? Please help me as I cannot find anyone who knows.
NICE, LIKE HOW MUCH IT WILL BE THAT JOB? OR HOW MUCH YOU WOULD CHARGE?
is there a list of all SKU/replacement PNs for hat job?
for a latest 380
One question: I noticed that the old chain, as it's being pulled out is slack, is there any risk that it get disengaged at the crankshaft sprocket and jumps a tooth there?
Thanks for an excellent Video. I was looking for such a video for a long time. One question. I have opened the same 450 slc engine and the chain is extremely loose, there are teeth broken down on the right hand cam gear wheel and score marks next to it. On inspection all the guide rails and tensioner rail seem intact and my fear is there is a deeper guide rail further down which I cannot see? I took the tensioner off and it seems ok be it with a soft spring-back. How could I see if this is intact or if there is any other damage as I could not find what caused the problem. I realise the chain and cam gear at least should be changed, but how can I be sure the cause of the problem has been fixed as I do not want to go into the trouble of taking the front of the engine off. Would I need to take the sump off and how would I remove the crankshaft pulley?
Good write up as recommended at benzworld. Intact rails are less important than the rail color; if dark brown they should be replaced.
💯
Hello I see you changed you're timing chain on a Mercedes v8 116 or 117 but I do not see you riveted the chain but just put together with circlips is that normal. Will the chain not get losen with just circlips on the chain and not riveted. Hope too hear you soon back because I have also changed my timing chain of my 116984 engine and also have twoo circlips. But I am used too riveted the chain with Mercedes engines
Does 1999 mercedes Benz V8 has timing chain. Car vibrates a little.
How did you remove the tension guide ? I got the screw out but then what? You skip that part
Do you know what size that attachment was to pull the chain tensioner guide rail? The tool I bought from Amazon doesn’t seem to have a big enough attachment.
For anyone reading this, the chain tensioner guide rail pin on my 1982 380sl was NOT threaded. Bought a 5/16" x 2.5" expanding concrete anchor bolt from the hardware store and used this to pull the pin. Once you expand it in the pin, it should slide out pretty easily.
really running without riveting the chain? master link and e-clips still holding up?
As far as i know the "master link" is only for connectiing the new chain with the old chain. After the new chain was pull through the master chain was removed and the new was riveting.
You are OK
You are using wrong spark plugs. M117 engines needs non-resistor spark plugs
Which brand of zip ties are those?
@autosick can you please tell me how you removed the pin for the tensioner guide? it has not threads, and nothing is grabbing to it.
it's got a 6mm thread inside it
@@baldricksimson lol a year late. But mine did not have the thread. It was a pain to remove it.
Can you do my chain on my 86 560sl?
=)
I'll even pay you hehe
how to want buy?
Amazing how complex German Engines are and The Mercedes M 116 Engine was Magnificent, but so was the designers of the R 107 joe Gallitzendorfer and Friedrich Geiger. Mercedes could not build a car like that today, but they can make a illuminated grille emblem to appeal to morons!
Question: Tension guide pin, HOW DID YOU EXTRACT THE HOLLOW SLEEVE FROM THE HOLE?
The pins are actually threaded, A 6M-1.0 6mm would fit, but you’ll either buy a tool or make one
Ok.. that's true on all pins ... but as usual there's always one. The tension guide pivot pin is just a hollow sleeve. I had to use an M8-12 easy-out.. there wasn't any force to pull it out but it was a mother.. what did you do?
@@DaveyJonesLockerwithJazzy so far I took one pin out the upper guide rails, not sure about the other pin your talking, I’ll let you know when I get the timing cover off
How about the other gears, they must be worn out just the same as the cam gears.
Anyone know the part number for the tool to remove the guide pins
www.ebay.com/itm/EWK-Timing-Chain-Guide-Rail-Pin-Puller-Remover-Tool-for-BMW-Mercedes-Benz/254278815889?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Anyone have an idea on how many workshop hours this should take please??
About 6 hrs. if your a mechanic, with all the parts, and tools next to you.
Why would you have to replace a timing chain after only 100k miles? Timing chains typically last MUCH longer than that.
All good except the spark plugs. You are absolutely wrong to use them.
1. They are an "R" part number with a resistor. This generation of engines use resistors in the spark plug wire and must use NON RESITOR spark plugs. Plain copper core non resitor plugs only!!! Otherwise the resistance is double
2. This low energy ignition system never gets an iridium plug hot enough to use it's self cleaning feature and can foul easier than a regular copper/nickle correct plug.
NGK BP6ES
Bosch W6DC
No "R" in your part number.
Added info, NGK plugs go colder in heatrange the higher the number and Bosch go hotter higher numericaly. If the car operates in high heat conditions I run one heat range colder.
Nobody can diagnose over the internet, but you should read the excellent write ups on chain issues at www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1556523-timing-chain-visual-inspection.html#post4455220 / You are lucky with a loose chain, as a failure will total this interference engine. Don't drive it. Unfortunately you can't get to the lower guide rails or the the crank pulley without removing the engine from the car. If I were you I would do the job in the video, replacing all the uppers and sprockets and tensioner, then see how your timing marks line up. If they are within a few degrees and the chain is tight, I would not worry about the lowers. If not, then you have a decision to make on a mechanically advanced lower chain service.
Ken Lee Mr. Lee: I want thank you for the informative video on replacing the timing chain and guides on the R107 v8 engine. I have reviewed your video many, many times and it is very educational! I wanted to know the name of the tool that you used to remove/pull the pins on the guides, I would like to attempt to replace mine. Thank you, Raymond Williams (3Buckshutter@gmail.com)
Raymond Williams Not endorsing any vendor but they remain available on Ebay: www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Chain-Rail-Pin-Puller-Engine-Timing-Tools-/261336335595?hash=item3cd8dc04eb&item=261336335595&vxp=mtr
This particular vendor calls it a Mercedes Chain Rail Pin Puller Engine Timing Tools so just use the search for Mercedes pin puller. Good luck.
looks like a huge pain in the ass
WTF😂