Excellent! I've struggled a lot and looked at many videos and forums and as was almost going to give up (but I have the good quality of not giving up) certainly it was challenging. Especiialy when the forums or the manual says the angle it is supposed to be, but no one speaks of chain stretch. But, follow my video and you will get the perfect timing. After I did this I installed quick glow plugs, OMG, it starts in 1,2,3. before it was 1 minute and some. You wont believe how good this engine starts and runs now!
@ first step is to turn the crankshaft with the camshaft cover off, turn until the two dots Aline at the camshaft holder and sprocket, (Attentuon: make sure your first cylinder valves are closed) or you could be 180 degrees wrong! )then you look at the timing marks down at the crankshaft that would be your true TDC. From there you deduct the BTDC number for your engine and that is where your injection pump first nozzle should fire.
@@makingcookingfixing ya got that. What i was getting at on yours what that you came up with 18deg. So you pulled the pump and then set the crank to 18 dbtdc and then replaced the pump with the pump timing mark aligned
@ exactly. However, with the pump marks aligned, and put back in the engine, when double checking if diesel is coming out at nozzle 1 of pump at my crankshaft position, after a few turns, it turned out still to be not in synch. I had to pull the pump out a few times and adjust a teeth by teeth.
@@makingcookingfixing I’ve got mine at 24/25 btdc and now I take off the pump and align the marks and place the pump back on. At this point since being at 24btdc with rabbit ears up on intake and exhaust in #1 and marks aligned I should button up and rotate to 15 atdc as I understand. What are your thoughts? I have not messed with the side panel on the pump setting it to 19.5 - I’ve not attempted this yet. Of course at this point I can use trial and error starting at 24btdc. I watched videos recently which also used 15atdc after a formulae had been followed adjusting the ‘side timing.’ Thanks for commenting again.
@@banginbuffalothe first part you write is perfect. 24BTDC bottom and ears up on top, if you took out your pump and the untoothed cog lines up, you should be perfect, this means the pump will spray exactly at 24BTDC. Just do the air removal process by hand pumping. But just to be sure, without the steel high pressure fuel pipes, rotate the crank and see if the diesel actually starts to lift from the first line each second turn at 24BTDC. It should and you should be able to start the engine
Hello sir, well done and thank you for your video, I had a quick question regarding the adjustment of the om616 injection pump, normally from what I heard on certain forums, they say that the injection point is When the diesel stops spouting from the first cylinder of the pump and you apparently wait for it to flow according to your little transparent pen pipe? Is that why it’s confusing? do we have to wait for the diesel to come out or stop from the pump, on cylinder 1 to really know the injection point? thank you for your feedback
Hello, and thank you for your kind words! You’ve raised an excellent question, and I’m happy to clarify. The confusion often comes from the different methods used to determine the injection timing on the OM616. Here's the distinction: When the diesel stops spouting: This method is often referred to as the “spill timing method.” It involves rotating the engine and observing when fuel flow stops from the first cylinder's outlet. This point is commonly used as the reference for injection timing. When the diesel starts flowing: This is a variation of the same principle but focuses on when fuel just begins to emerge from the first cylinder outlet. Some people just look inside the first port for movement, I used a transparent pipe or pen to make this easier to observe. Both methods aim to identify the start of injection, but the key is aligning this point with the specific timing marks on your engine (e.g., the crankshaft or flywheel marks) as specified in the service manual. In practice, either approach can work, but it’s crucial to consistently use the same method and ensure it matches your engine’s timing specification. If you're using a transparent pen pipe as shown in my video, it’s easier to focus on the start of flow for accuracy. I hope this clears things up! Feel free to ask if you have any further questions.
Thank you for your question. These are old engines, I believe even new they were at 4 degrees, which was totally ok. Mine is where you saw it because of chain elongation.
I'm sorry that I didn't understand how you fixed the injection timing. Did you loosen the injection pump mounting nuts and then swivel the injection pump towards the engine by 6 degrees ?
Hi, yes, I removed the 3 mounting nuts of the injection pump to remove the pump so I can see the groove on the front gear. In normal cases that groove should be on the top mark on the body of the injection pump and at the same time, match the alignment marks on the camshaft which is TDC Top dead center of cylinder 1. Now the difficult part is determining the amount of chain stretch you have to find the true angle of TDC on cylinder 1. To find that you turn your engine clockwise until the two marks on the camshaft line up precisely! and then look down on the crankshaft pulley and read the number where that is. It supposed to be 24BTDC If camshaft is aligned it means that cylinder one is in compression stroke. and the mark should be at 24BTDC. If it is not there, you look where you are at (before or after 24BTDC and you would adjust your injection pump accordingly.
please also check what I wrote at 4:11 in the video. The quick and easy answer is, align your camshaft marks (make sure they align at the first cylinder, because you could be aligned at cylinder 4 (this is a great tip!) so, open your valve cover to be sure the two rocker arms of cylinder 1 are up, set the sprocket groove of the injection pump aligned with the mark on the body. Then turn your crankshaft manually to where you need to be (which you determined beforehand) in my case, I was 6 degrees after TDC. Any question you have I will try to help.
He accouted for the slack of the chain, apparent by checking how misaligned the crankshaft is to the camshaft at its tdc marks. I suggest replacing the chain though, as 6 degrees is a lot.
OUTSTANDING!!!! i been fighting this very thing for years , will give this a try this weekend and give my results
Excellent! I've struggled a lot and looked at many videos and forums and as was almost going to give up (but I have the good quality of not giving up) certainly it was challenging. Especiialy when the forums or the manual says the angle it is supposed to be, but no one speaks of chain stretch. But, follow my video and you will get the perfect timing. After I did this I installed quick glow plugs, OMG, it starts in 1,2,3. before it was 1 minute and some. You wont believe how good this engine starts and runs now!
@makingcookingfixing so did you set the crank at 18 and then reset the pump or did you set the crank to 22 and and then turned the pump down to 18 ?
@ first step is to turn the crankshaft with the camshaft cover off, turn until the two dots Aline at the camshaft holder and sprocket, (Attentuon: make sure your first cylinder valves are closed) or you could be 180 degrees wrong! )then you look at the timing marks down at the crankshaft that would be your true TDC. From there you deduct the BTDC number for your engine and that is where your injection pump first nozzle should fire.
@@makingcookingfixing ya got that. What i was getting at on yours what that you came up with 18deg. So you pulled the pump and then set the crank to 18 dbtdc and then replaced the pump with the pump timing mark aligned
@ exactly. However, with the pump marks aligned, and put back in the engine, when double checking if diesel is coming out at nozzle 1 of pump at my crankshaft position, after a few turns, it turned out still to be not in synch. I had to pull the pump out a few times and adjust a teeth by teeth.
After you turned the crank to get flow to #1 and reached flow, what was the crankshaft reading? Thanks.
Before starting, I was 6 degrees over and had to be at 24 before. So i got it to work at 24 minus 6 = 18 BTC
@@makingcookingfixing I’ve got mine at 24/25 btdc and now I take off the pump and align the marks and place the pump back on. At this point since being at 24btdc with rabbit ears up on intake and exhaust in #1 and marks aligned I should button up and rotate to 15 atdc as I understand. What are your thoughts? I have not messed with the side panel on the pump setting it to 19.5 - I’ve not attempted this yet. Of course at this point I can use trial and error starting at 24btdc. I watched videos recently which also used 15atdc after a formulae had been followed adjusting the ‘side timing.’ Thanks for commenting again.
@@banginbuffalothe first part you write is perfect. 24BTDC bottom and ears up on top, if you took out your pump and the untoothed cog lines up, you should be perfect, this means the pump will spray exactly at 24BTDC. Just do the air removal process by hand pumping. But just to be sure, without the steel high pressure fuel pipes, rotate the crank and see if the diesel actually starts to lift from the first line each second turn at 24BTDC. It should and you should be able to start the engine
Hello sir, well done and thank you for your video, I had a quick question regarding the adjustment of the om616 injection pump, normally from what I heard on certain forums, they say that the injection point is When the diesel stops spouting from the first cylinder of the pump and you apparently wait for it to flow according to your little transparent pen pipe? Is that why it’s confusing? do we have to wait for the diesel to come out or stop from the pump, on cylinder 1 to really know the injection point? thank you for your feedback
Hello, and thank you for your kind words! You’ve raised an excellent question, and I’m happy to clarify.
The confusion often comes from the different methods used to determine the injection timing on the OM616. Here's the distinction:
When the diesel stops spouting: This method is often referred to as the “spill timing method.” It involves rotating the engine and observing when fuel flow stops from the first cylinder's outlet. This point is commonly used as the reference for injection timing.
When the diesel starts flowing: This is a variation of the same principle but focuses on when fuel just begins to emerge from the first cylinder outlet. Some people just look inside the first port for movement, I used a transparent pipe or pen to make this easier to observe.
Both methods aim to identify the start of injection, but the key is aligning this point with the specific timing marks on your engine (e.g., the crankshaft or flywheel marks) as specified in the service manual.
In practice, either approach can work, but it’s crucial to consistently use the same method and ensure it matches your engine’s timing specification. If you're using a transparent pen pipe as shown in my video, it’s easier to focus on the start of flow for accuracy.
I hope this clears things up! Feel free to ask if you have any further questions.
ok thank you verry much 👍
Sorry,but,the allignement for the cam,equivale at the Mark ti the flyweel to the sign OT? Whi in your engine Is the not OT?
Thank you for your question. These are old engines, I believe even new they were at 4 degrees, which was totally ok. Mine is where you saw it because of chain elongation.
@makingcookingfixing tank s very good
I'm sorry that I didn't understand how you fixed the injection timing. Did you loosen the injection pump mounting nuts and then swivel the injection pump towards the engine by 6 degrees ?
Hi, yes, I removed the 3 mounting nuts of the injection pump to remove the pump so I can see the groove on the front gear. In normal cases that groove should be on the top mark on the body of the injection pump and at the same time, match the alignment marks on the camshaft which is TDC Top dead center of cylinder 1. Now the difficult part is determining the amount of chain stretch you have to find the true angle of TDC on cylinder 1. To find that you turn your engine clockwise until the two marks on the camshaft line up precisely! and then look down on the crankshaft pulley and read the number where that is. It supposed to be 24BTDC If camshaft is aligned it means that cylinder one is in compression stroke. and the mark should be at 24BTDC. If it is not there, you look where you are at (before or after 24BTDC and you would adjust your injection pump accordingly.
please also check what I wrote at 4:11 in the video. The quick and easy answer is, align your camshaft marks (make sure they align at the first cylinder, because you could be aligned at cylinder 4 (this is a great tip!) so, open your valve cover to be sure the two rocker arms of cylinder 1 are up, set the sprocket groove of the injection pump aligned with the mark on the body. Then turn your crankshaft manually to where you need to be (which you determined beforehand) in my case, I was 6 degrees after TDC. Any question you have I will try to help.
Thank you very much. Now I understand how you matched the pump timing to the engine timing marks with the 6 degree change due to the chain stretch. ,👍
@@makingcookingfixinghow would you adjust your injection pump accordingly if it read say 18 degrees?
@@banginbuffalo are you sure it reads 18degrees with the camshaft marks aligning at TDC on first cylinder? (Both intake and exhaust lines are up)
You are a genius
lol. Thank you very much for the compliment
Hi friend, i still don't understand how you compensate pump timing without an exact tdc, but it works😂
He accouted for the slack of the chain, apparent by checking how misaligned the crankshaft is to the camshaft at its tdc marks. I suggest replacing the chain though, as 6 degrees is a lot.