Building a Porsche 924 Safari: Issues when lifting your rear suspension
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- Опубліковано 21 жов 2024
- Things did not go according to plan...bit I will persevere!
This is the twenty sixth video in a series where I will be documenting the build of my Porsche 924 Safari.Basically everything went wrong...it has not been my week. But this project is like the tango, when i get tangled up, i just untangle and go forward.
Sealy Brake Bleeder: www.sealey.co....
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For the latest Garage Biljon update please watch: "Restoring a Flood Damaged Porsche 968: Interior restoration #wiringharness #cleaning"
• Restoring a Flood Dama...
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Hello Garage Biljon, thank you for sharing this important information regarding the drive shafts and the associated restrictions on the lift kit. I planned a similar project with a 944 for next spring and saved myself a lot of work thanks to your documentation... otherwise I would have done it exactly like you did on your first attempt. Keep fighting!
Thank you very much, I am glad I was able to help!
Fun stuff, I had the same issue when I did a 4" lift on my subaru, but with 4 cv axles. I actually finding 1" subframe spacers for the front and rear which made the cv axle angle less aggressive. So basically body goes up, drive train goes down, cv are happy lol
I was actually thinking about something similar as well, I could add a spacer between the chassis and gearbox mount, but I think that will open another can of worms.
@@GarageBiljonI thought about it as well and in your case probably, bc you're not running a regular drive shaft to the rear end. With it having a torque tube it has to be perfectly aligned.
On a Subaru it was sorta easy bc they are like Legos, I lifted a impreza but used suspension parts from a Forester and a Outback and everything fits together(plus 2" strut spacers).
I'm sure you'll figure it out, maybe look at Baja beetle suspension for ideas bc thats the closest thing to a Porsche. They make a ton of high angle CV axles and VW guys put the Porsche axle stubs on their arms bc they are beefier(930 or 934 axle stubs) might be worth some research 🤷♂️
Thanks @@RedRoofGarage, some really good info!
It's kinda crazy to see that well before full droop onto the stop block the CV's are bound. Sorry you have to go through all that work again.
I was actually thinking the CV's are the wrong spec, but I double checked the part numbers and they are correct. But if they bind up again once I have reduced the angle on the spring plates I am going to install the old one and see if they are better.
Put the shocks in, they limit the drop to what the CVs can handle.
@@mawe42 I my LIMITED knowledge of this stuff, I was breaking down my rear suspension on my 1987 924S (probably in the wrong order) and the rear was being held up by the rear shock. When I removed the rear shock, the everything slumped further.
If you do reindex, you were at 25 degrees, so will you know go to 23?
I don't want the shocks to act as limit straps though @@mawe42, I think I pushed it just a little too far with 25 degrees 😅
Yes @@wjcunningham3, I am bringing it back to 23'ish. Fingers crossed this will work.
I was wondering if you would have problems with the axle angle. I supposed another case of two steps forward and one back. But it's still coming along! I would highly recommend using a flare nut wrench on the bleed screws
As soon as I started struggling getting the drive shafts in I knew I went too far, but because the CV's are new and tight I though that they maybe just needed to settle. Wishful thinking 😅 But I am still loving the process and I hope to have it spot on now, I should have it under the car again by Sunday.
It’s much quicker second time around. I took mine out again to fit a rear ARB, and it’s a piece of cake second time. :)
Haha, yes! At least 10 times faster the second time round 😅