ICM Replacement GM 3800 Vin C (1989-91)
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- Опубліковано 28 лис 2024
- In this video I'll show you the steps to removing, replacing, and rewiring your Ignition Control Module on your GM 3800 and talk about the symptoms that you might have when this module fails. This vehicle is my 1990 Pontiac Bonneville with 311K miles.
2024: Wow! Finally a video for the pre-1992 3.8L engine!!! Original ICM for my 1991 Delta 88... I guess I got my monies worth from it!
* Great and informative video! A shop wanted minimum 1 hr labor because it's a car older than 15 years old... $150 to repace this! Add in the cost of their ICM and it quickly turned into a $350 repair! I found on on Amazon (same one from Advanced) for $90... If it works out, I'll be needing another one for the 1989 Delta 88.
Thank you very much for making this video. It really helped.
Thank you very, very much for making this video I was completely lost and there is barely any information on these spark systems
Hey so I have a 91 old 88 royale I spent over 500$ on an entire fuel delivery system. Lines tank pump assembly all the way to the engine. This wasn’t the issue. I’m positive it is my icm. I just ordered icm, coil pack, plugs and wires. The only other possibility I can think are injectors. I highly doubt it’s the injectors. I thank you so much for posting this bc it gave me a little more insight for pulling the part before getting under the hood. I have all of the same symptoms, it drives until it warms up and will randomly stall in the middle of the road and won’t start back up. Tomorrow we will see. I also did the brake lines and master cylinder too. One caliper was ceased so I replaced that. Other than that its a damn good car.
Check the wires to your crankshaft position sensor. I had bad wires that caused my ICM to short out because the crankshaft sensor is what tells your ICM when and where to fire the spark. Without that input your computer "doesnt know when to fire the spark" and therefore Doesnt run. If it does it again pull one of the plug wires off one of the coils and hold a screwdriver about a half inch away and have someone crank the engine. If you have no spark I bet you have a bad crankshaft sensor.
@@caayydenn can you tell me the location of the crankshaft sensor? tyia
@@briandeanleister behind the harmonic balancer on the bottom of the engine
Did your solution with the ecm and coil pack finally work? …. I seem to have the same issues as you
This is the the best 3.8 first gen in my opinion
Thanks so much for posting this. My daily driver is a 90 LeSabre. I must be on my 5th ICM since I’ve inherited it from my grandparents (2012).
If you don't want to keep buying the magnavox style, you can upgrade it to a series 1 ignition system using the 3 piece coils instead of one, and the series 1 ICM will work as well. Its plug and play. I have a short video explaining the upgrade. Its worth it in the long run.
I forgot to mention this in the video that is a crucial step and i apologize. But use dielectric grease on all the contacts and the black part of the module to prevent it from overheating. Thanks for watching
The wires for the front three plugs go inside the black plastic channel attached to the valve cover. To remove the channel cover you unbolt the dipstick tube and slide the channel cover to the left. You're also missing the plastic conduits that cover the wires as they travel in front of the ICM and behind the alternator, and the two 3-slot clips that hold the wires together
Thank you for the video this confirms my suspicion of what's wrong with my Saturn same exact symptoms. Waiting for money I've replaced everything else besides this part. Can't wait to find out if it works
Just be sure to check your wiring nearby, for example, to the crankshaft sensor, because bad wiring will also cause the same things to happen and short out your ICM at the same time which is what I found out happened here later.
@@caayydenn yes I did have a mechanic replace my crankshaft sensor for me. I was thinking that would fix my problem. So just that and the AIC cost me nearly 300. Im assuming he checked the wires but I will call him and make sure thank you.
Common issues with the engines are Camshaft Sensor malfunctioning and ICM going bad. And the brake line (90°) just before the fuel filter rusting out and failing... The brake line fails after about 20 years.
Thanks for the video. I have an ‘89 LeSabre that I’ve been told needs a replacement ECM or a replacement PROM. Do you have a “how to” video for that??
@davidhollingsworth950 No I don't. But it's on the passenger side footwell back behind the glove box kind of. You have to pull the kick panel off and it's a silver box with 3 large connectors and a 10mm bolt that holds it down.
@ Thank you very much! I’ll look in that area. 👍
Can anyone tell me what the firing order is? I've tried every single one I possibly can find to no avail after doing this exact replacement and unfortunately that is not covered in this video
Hello, it’s me again
I’m still having trouble with my 1989 Buick LeSabre custom I was wondering if I should just replace every single sensor on the engine. I pretty much have a code for every single one, so would it be in the best interest to replace every single one?
It has all the symptoms from hard starting stumbling, stalling, and cutting out
@@Foxlone It's probably your ECM.
Turns out that the wiring harness from eBay was too short for my car. I have an ‘88 LeSabre and the ICM wiring goes all the way to the ECM. Seems like the EBay harness is for a later model where they put the connection from the module to the ECM up toward the front of the engine, under the coil pack. Big bummer
Probably because yours is an 88. They must be for the 89-91 3800s. I'm sorry that happened. But I still think that wiring harness is your issue
Caayydenn yeah they must have changed it after 88.
I’m thinking about cutting the wires back a little and re-terminating them. Or taking the wires out of the new connector and re-terminating the old wires on the new connector. What do you think of that idea?
@@Tim.McElheny Cut off the new connector from the rest of the harness. Cut off past the bad wires on the old plug, splice new one on by either soldering or butt connectors.
Does this goes the same for a 1991 Buick park avenue the same coloring for the wires my friend
It should be the same, yes. However, later on, I ended up using a 92-95 module so I could have 3 individual coils instead of one. They're all plug and play, but the brackets differ over the years.
Thanks man I really appreciate the great information you put out on the tube it's helping me out a lot thanks again
You said your coils were fine. How do you know they are fine and just need the “Lower” module itself?
Because of code 42 telling me that the bypass signal the module sends to the ECM was not being put out. The coils are the mechanical piece thats controlled by the ICM below. It CAN be a bad wiring harness at times but usually its the module so I went with it and was right.
A bad coil will present itself all the time or either under load. Intermittent issues are almost always electrical
I have a 90 Reatta and the spark tester show no spark. The symptoms are it just quit and an hour later it ran for a minute. I did connected that entire assembly of the coil pack or ICM as you put it. Since I had no spark is it probably the lower part of the module? Thanks
Look into your crankshaft position sensor. A bad crankshaft sensor wont let the ICM fire spark because it doesnt know where your pistons are and when to fire the spark. A lot of times they work when cold and then fail as soon as the heat up. I speak from experience on this one. You'll have to pull the balancer off but the part is only like $45 for a good one.
Hi. Do you know what will cause one of these have issues with "long starts"? Turns over a long time before it cranks? I unplugged the Mass air sensor and it wouldn't crank. I saw another video where someone said it could be it and if you unplugged it and it started right up then it needed to be cleaned or replaced. I'm thinking maybe fuel pressure regulator and unsure if IAC would make it long start? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Have you started simple with air filter? Could also be worn/dirty injectors. Did you get an OEM MAF sensor? Definitely clean throttle body if you havent. Theres honestly a lot that can cause it. Even a fuel filter or the pump. But I would start with making sure throttle body is clean, and then test fuel pressure.
Ty. This video really helped me!
Did you have to "re learn" the icm to the cars ecu? Did it just fire up fine if not better than before?
No re learning or anything that you have to do. It should fire up like normal.
i have a 89 lesabre with the LN3 (pre series 1 ) engine..my car had no issues cranking or idling..was smooth as silk..the after around 20 minutes..with no warning whatsoever..it would stall as if i turned the key off...let it cool down for about 15 minutes and it would start again but do the same thing..i changed the crank positioning sensor..started right up..and again after bout 20 minutes same thing..i have a new ICM im gonna try next..i did notice some darkening on the plug wires at the coil..could the coil be a prob as well?..this car is 100% original 2 door with 70,000 miles
Definitely change those original plug wires out and that ICM. Your coils may be ok for the moment. Also check your wiring down to your crankshaft sensor and ICM. You could do a wiggle test with the ICM plug while the car is on and see if it acts up. Make sure you got an OEM crankshaft sensor as well and not like a mastercraft one from O'Reillys.
I actually upgraded my ICM and coils to the AC Delco style from the next generation 3800 instead of the old magnavox style because it kept burning through ICMs every year with the tons of driving I do.
@@caayydenn What year did you take the Ac Delco ICM from?
@@Tim.McElheny A 92-94 Olds 98 in the junkyard. Literally plug and play.
@@caayydenn nice! I'm having an issue with my magnavox stlye again and I'm looking to upgrade. Have you had any issues since you swapped them?
NEED TO USE HEAT SINK COMPOUND TO SEAT THE ICM TO THE ALUM BASE IN ORDER TO KEEP IT COOL. IF NOT, IT GETS HOT.
Hi. Where can you buy heat sink compound ? I really would like to buy it in a small tube.
I have a 89 buick LeSabre,I need to know how to replace the actuator for the front vents.What is going on is I only have heat coming from the defrost and the floor vents and also when I use my AC.Please let me know what is going on?Let me know something ASAP.Again its a 89 Buick LeSabre Custom,4 door.
Yours may differ from my Bonneville. From what I remember on the Buicks they have the electronic climate control instead of the sliders. The "black box" in your dash is what controls all of that. Chances are that has failed unless something in the blend door itself is physically broken. The black box has bolts to unscrew it once you take off the wood trim. I actually have one in my shed, but certain functions on it didn't work, leading me to believe thats whats wrong with yours. I can't give you a guarantee on it tho. You can take it to a shop to have them diagnose it. If it is that climate control unit, they are really easy to replace.
@@caayydenn Can you please tell me where my heater control valve located on my 89 buick lesabre custom if it has one?
@@timwilder9663 Your heat is just from the heater core and the blend door. And the climate control unit controls the blend door functions. If you don't have heat, blend door actuator could be bad, low on coolant, or a bad blower fan.
Insideof coil paçk melted .sticky everywhere.what to use to clean this off?
If you're talking about a green gooey substance, I don't know of a good way to clean it. If it's been seeping outside of the module, typically it means it's cooked. Best thing to do would be to replace the ICM and coil pack on top. You can upgrade to a series 1 ICM and 3 coil set up as well, which will probably work better in the long run.
@@caayydenn What kind of mounting plate should I use? The original module has 3 screws to hold it and the series 1 ICM plate has none? Am I missing something? Thanks!
@Kaairve You must be looking at a '95 model or something. All ICMs for pre series and series 1 had studs that go through the bracket and fasten with nuts on the bottom (except '95 models). 95' and newer models used screws that go through the coils and ICM to mount it. It uses an entirely different mounting plate that has threaded holes in it. You could probably get a newer mounting plate to bolt on a pre series or series 1. Never tried it myself. My set up is off a junked '94 Olds 98.
Do you think it would fit on a 1990 buick lesabre ,, 3.8.
100% yes that is the other car i had mentioned in the video. Also a Vin C engine. It will be identical to this video.
what about code 44. 89 buick lesabre 3.8l
Code 44 means "running lean". Check vacuum hoses for leaks or holes first. When I had this code in the past replacing the O2 sensor fixed it for me. I have a video on that actually.
@@caayydenn Thank you did you change the 02 sensor on manifold or the one near cattalac converter.
@@jodiewodie23 There's only one on those cars and its right before the catalytic converter on the exhaust manifold. Back side of engine. Like I said I have a short video on it.
@@caayydenn Thank you i subscribed an now watching it
My 92 buick lesabre quit and won,t start everything else good.So when order a ICM for 92 it was wrong.My coil is a one piece also looks the same three nuts on the front bolt holding the ICM on.Where can I get this part I live in Canada as soon as possible any idea,s.
Any ICM and coil set up from 92-95 should work as they are compatible to swap out with a magnavox one piece style from 88-91 even. I have a short video explaining my upgrade that I just did. Theres a good chance your problem could not be the ICM. Does it crank but not start? If so, could be a crankshaft position sensor gone bad or the wiring to it. The wiring harness the ICM is linked to is shared with that sensor as well. It creates a no spark condition basically. You'll have to pull the harmonic balancer off to change it out.
As far as where to get the parts, they should be available at local parts stores.. If not, try RockAuto.com or even PartsGeek.com.
Found a 1987 icm that was working,still looking for a 95 used.Try next week to see if this 1987 will work it,s on a steel bracket my 92 is bolted to aluminum molded to the block.I wonder if this is the reason no airflow under the ICM and coils to cool in the aluminum mld as no air can actually cool it on the under side.Got the 87 for 20 bucks thanks for the help let you know if it works plan on getting a few of these ICm,s.
@@caayydenn When took the ICM off with the coil it looked like the grease inside the unit was coming out of it as it was soaked even though it had motor oil on it.The wires to the crank sensor looked okay but when checking it was raining hard so need a dry day to get back at it.If I leave the key on can I test the wires with just a test light to see if there is power or does it need to turn over to do this and be tested,because I can run a wire down there and get the car cranked when I see a buddy on a weekend.
@@manoffaith9168 You can test the wires with a test light with ignition on just to see if you have power going to it. Thats how you would check the wiring side. The sensor itself could still be bad even if it has power. Theres a way to check resistance with an ohm meter but I'm not sure what the specs are for it. I'm sure theres a youtube video out there explaining how to test it.
GREEN TO CYL LINDER 4? OK THEN REST OF BLUE WIRES GO TO EVEN CYLINDERS IS 4 AND ODD NUMBER?
I misspoke at some point in the video and I apologize for that. I believe the first way I worded it was correct.
I does the green one goes to cylinder 4
I have the same "C" engine in my 1988 LeSabre. I replaced the ignition coil and ignition control module with AcDelco parts. I also replaced the spark plugs and spark plug wires. My car still won't turn over all the way and when it does it sputters out in a couple seconds. Any ideas of what else I should check?
Here's a video of the parts I replaced ua-cam.com/video/NW9exb8OmJI/v-deo.html
Clean your MAF sensor. Replace fuel filter if you haven't, and check for fuel pressure after the filter is changed. Sounds like you're not getting adequate fuel
@@caayydenn Thanks for the reply! I'll try all of those things. I brought my battery in to be tested and they said it had a bad cell too. So I'm going to replace my battery as well
@@Tim.McElheny Your car will run off your battery until the battery is dead if your alternator is not charging it. However sputtering out usually isnt a charging issue but more of a fuel/spark issue.
Caayydenn I just ordered a fuel filter and I’m going to pick it up tomorrow and try replacing that for sure.
If the fuel pump failed would I not hear the buzzing sound after I turn the key on accessory? Right now I’m still hearing the 2 seconds of buzzing if I turn my key on accessory.
@@Tim.McElheny You might still hear the buzzing but it could still have weak pressure. And if the filter is clogged of course you will lack fuel pressure. If its a high pitched buzzing that's not as good. Should be a low hum. However if the fuel filter does not make a difference i would look into the electronics of the car. If it has any trouble codes get them scanned. All it takes is a paper clip
Yo question
Shoot
Coul you tell even numbers from odd I guess not
@JayTorneden I made a mistake in my speech and didn't notice until video was out. My bad. The first way I mentioned it was correct.
The number for the plug wires are embossed on the coil pack.