Thank you for the instructions, my son and I replaced the coil module and the three coil packs and spark plugs yesterday and the engine light finally went off on our 2003 Chevy Malibu. We numbered the wires and new packs. Thank you.
Good job on explaining and showing the installation. Of note, You should always put HEAT SINK grease under the Ignition Module and under each Coil. Also Dielectric grease on the plug ends for the harness. The Heat Sink grease is vital to take heat away from the Coils and the Ignition module. Be sure not to confuse Heat Sink with Dielectric grease, many auto parts stores do not know the difference. You can get it under the Wells brand at most auto parts stores or online.
was you getting a no start ? i changed my crank and cam sensor both, still wont start, was wondering if this might be the cure,, fuel pump is pushing good to the rails
You forgot one important step. Before installing a new ICM you need to install "thermal grease" on the bottom of it. This is NOT dielectric grease because it will destroy the ICM. Also, not using thermal grease will prematurely cause it to fail.
Thermal Grease?? Oh no! I got dielectric grease.. I hadn’t swapped out the ICM, yet. I have a 1990 Buick LeSabre Limited V6-3800.. I believe it’s original and it started shutting down at 265,000 miles. I noticed my MAF sensor was shorted out and caused shutdown issues..
I have a 2004 Buick LeSabre with 3800 V6. It has 180,000 miles on it. The ICM needs replaced- I replaced one years ago on a Grand Prix- doing the same thing. The engine has a tapping noise now because on pushrod is not getting enough oil. The camshaft probably. My mechanic said to get a new engine, or get a newer car. I am torn about what to do. I have done a lot of repairs over the years. The transmission has been rebuilt, and, and, and. All major repairs have been done. The old Buick has leather interior that looks nearl new when cleaned up. The paint is still good. No rust. And the newer cars are so cheaply made- cheap interiors, plastic, cheap fabric. I have a mind to spend $4000 on a new engine, but not until it gets worse. The mechanic said to keep driving it. He said it might last a long time yet as is. Thanks for the video. I believe I can do the ICM no problem. I can the thermal grease/heat sink grease from a computer store. No auto parts stores in my area have it. The ICM needs replacing like now! Rough idle, weak acceleration.
You are exactly correct about new cars. My 2001 Buick regal has 196k I'd put s new engine in it before i bought a "' new" overpriced slapped - together turd.
Great video, im going to attempt this today, ive change my mass are flow sensor, and it was still doing the same, so now im going to change the whole icm and coils🤞..i refuse to pay an arm and leg when i can dirty my manicure for a quick sec. Thanks again
This seems easy enough. I went to both Autozone and Advance auto. Both had the module. Both had the diekectric grease. Neither store had heat sink grease or thermal grease. They had no idea what I was talking about. Any other common names for these? Any suggestions on where I can get this grease?
Excellent job / nice video CW! I take it the ICM you removed was the original part (1997). How many miles did it have on it when it began to fail? I'm doing the same operation on my '94 Buick Regal, 3.8L Series I / L27 (same coil packs, same ICM). Many thanks for sharing. Thumbs up!
I've changed my ignition control module, egr, and map sensor on a 97 saturn sc1. But I'm still getting map sensor low voltage, egr low voltage, and cam shaft sensor low voltage. Is it possible that the ignition module isn't grounded? And where do I put the di-electric grease? Just on the power coil terminals? Thanks for any help!
Thanks for the view and question. Does the battery light come or is it on? If so it might just be a dying battery, or alternator. The other causes could be a loose wiring harness at the sensors, make sure they're plugged in tight. A bad starter, or something in the starting circuit, or possibly the cam shaft sensor might be bad itself. Die-electric grease goes on the terminals only, thermal paste ( heat sink grease) goes under icm, and under each coil pack. Hope this helps man, good luck!
@The Gentleman Farmer (captianwiggles) all the lights seem fine. Not dim while engine running or off. It doesn't have a cam shaft sensor though. Everything I've found is its referring to icm. My shop has oked the harnesses. Thanks for the clarity on the die-electric grease. Any other thoughts would be appreciated, otherwise. Thank you for your time.
Thank you for the film. Can you tell what grease goes inside of the ICM and possibly where do you apply it? In my coil compartment ( to the very right under the bigger connector) for the ICM there was a blob of some grease. Is it supposed to be there? And if so what grease is it? For the new ICM AC Delco gives a pack of grease to put on the female connectors, but where exactly? And nothing said to put into the coil compartment. Do you put any grease on the metallic plate of the module? My original Module (2003 Chevrolet Cavalier, Eco Tec 2.2 engine) doesn't have any visible scratches on the metallic plate.
Hi, sorry I missed this, yes, you want Thermal Paste in between the plate and module and clean and replace any grease/paste that is in any other location with the provided packet. Hope that helped!
@@CaptianWiggles Thank you for the replay. I found out through some research that there are 2 ICM types (at least), and mine (EcoTec 2.2 engine) doesn't require any heat transfer compounds, since it is equiped inside with cooper heat sinks (under the transistors), so just dielectric grease (or silicon conpound0 is needed to lubricate connectors in the way that water doesn't penetrate.
Hey Nice Video Your A Great Mechanic Are You located In Houston I Have A 01 Buick LeSabre & I changed my starter, spark plugs,engine cords,new battery & I even changed my fuel filter smh. At first I was having trouble starting my car. If I turn it off I’ll have to wait for it to start back up & now it won’t start at all. Someone told me my alternator but I really need some help cause I did all this work & now it would even start. I just got the new battery 2 Days Ago because my car wouldn’t hold charge I tried jumping it nothing happen it just clicks one time like it wants to turn over but nun
Tammeran Fuse- Hi, thanks for the view and compliment. 1. If the battery was brand new from store, I would have them test it. If it's not new sounds like u need a new one. 2. I would then re-check all the spark plug wires and plugs and make sure they are in order. 3. If you can get it started, you can check the alternator by carfully taking the positive cable off the battery, if it dies, bad alternator. Post back, me and others will try to help.
I was trying to remove the bottom coil pack for cylinders 4 and 1 and I could not get the left bolt out and finally had to use a grinder to finely grind the thing off because the bolt is stuck inside and I don't know what to do other than take the whole bracket off and mess with it. Was told that I'd have to rethread it and to just buy a new ICM but that bolt wont release it from the bracket. I've tried everything as far as pliers go to try to loosen the screw between the plug for the coil pack and it will not move. It's hard because you have zero room and trying not to bend the ends of the plug that sit on both sides of the bolt..Are there any suggestions?
keithjohnson839 i just went through the same issue 2 days ago. All my bolts that mount coils were rusted. You mentioned pliers being used but did you try vise grips? If not try those. Its how I ended up getting mine out. I too grinded off the head of bolt to get coil off but used the vise grips to remove thread portion. Also I forgot to mention that even after i used grinder on bolt head instill couldn’t get coil off. My icm was bad so I ended up just buying a new coil ( $18 ) because i took a screw driver and put it under the right side of that same coil u are having issues with and pried it off. The coil had rust so would had failed eventually anyways but thats how I got it the coil off. The icm harness bolt also was rusted (7mm) I believe. I ended up finding a socket that would fit better that the 7mm because rust deteriorated the size and that finally removed the icm harness
Oh yeah, i tried vice grips.. now I'm looking at getting the 2 bolts that hold the bracket on off and mess with it more (after taking off the other coil packs).. I've swapped out an ICM before and I swapped out coil packs before and never had a problem and I'm thinking this was caused because I probably did not use grease underneath the ICM when it was swapped out and it heated up that one bolt and melted it inside..only explanation i can think of for that bolt not moving inside..or someone cross threaded it when i had a tune up done for free
keithjohnson839 dont use die electric grease. Use heat sink grease(its the white stuff that comes with new icm) i used die electric before and ruined icm pretty fast
You DO NOT use DIELECTRIC grease on the base/heat sink. You DO USE THERMAL CONDUCTIVE PASTE. This is the reason soooo many people have these ICMs fail prematurely.
Hmm, interesting. I agree in NOT using 'dielectric' grease. Thermal perhaps okay. I contacted WELLS directly and specifically regarding this question for this particular ICM (DR158) and was advised to INSTALL DRY, no greases. I followed said recommendation, no performance issues. Thx. for the excellent video CW.
Im about to change mine but, I thought you had to put thermal paste on the bottom plate or it would burn out. Why is no one else saying that. I thought it was really really important. Am I wrong?
Hi! Check all your vacuum lines and the rubber connectors, you can get a multipack of replacement connectors and replacement line at napa auto or pretty much any parts store. Its more than likely one or more of the rubber connections. Thanks for the view and question!
I need help I own a 2002 Buick Regal with the 3.8 litre Series II motor & I am having a long extended crank issue when the engine is cold & then car eventually starts I replaced the spark plugs, new fuel pressure regulator, new fuel filter, new fuel line, new MAF sensor but still having a hard time starting the engine when the motor is cold could you let me know how can I solve this problem & I'm guessing that my fuel pump is weak or the crank sensor is bad or is it my ignition coil pack please get back to me Thanks.
From reading your comment, I would say you are right about the ICM. Sounds like it might have gotten dirty or maybe fluid found it's way over there, either way I would start with the ICM. It can be failing but still crank. Bad crank sensor would be a no start I believe, and same for fuel pump plus possible smell. Even if that wasn't the whole issue, it will definitely improve performance.
@@fordmustang98guy I'm pretty sure if it was the fuel pump it wouldn't start at all. It might also be your ignition switch. That would be the VATS system. Is your security light on or come on and go off at anytime other than startup? If it does, that's probably it. I have a vid on that too, VATS BYPASS
The Gentleman Farmer (captianwiggles) My security light is not on I have no warning lights on at all but what could it be causing it to crank for an extended time
@@fordmustang98guy I think your problem is the VATS system. It is the chip on your key. It shows a certain level of resistance to the ignition switch module. The problem is the tilt on the steering wheel over time breaks the wires to the module. To fix it watch my VATS video, it is very easy and cheap, like $0.25! The same exact issue you are having is fixed in that video. Thanks for watching and good luck man!
Would that cause flashing security light no click no crank. Had one replaced yr.so ago had staling and cut off engine.I my battery terminals got me up running when moving them but not this time
Hi! Thanks for the view and question! I think that no click, no crank, but battery is good, would be the VATS (vehicle anti theft) system. I have a video on that too take a look at it, hopefully that will help.
Captainwiggles My car will start and run fine (I deliver pizzas) so on warmer days after I shut it off then come back out to start it immediately or 20 mins later it won't start until the engine cools a little.... Does this sound like a bad ignition control module or coils?
Hi, sorry for the delayed reply, Idk if that would be your problem. A bad coil(s) would throw a code if I remember right. I would check the safety chip on your key, clean it with a pencil eraser and get some key graphite lube, the ignition key cylinder has a chip reader for the key chip and they do and make starting your car a hit an miss if they are dirty. This would probably make the Security dash light come on though. I would also check your batteries terminal posts, might need to b cleaned or loose connection. After that I would check starter and connections, then New spark plugs and wires. Sorry its so broad an answer, but hard to tell without more info. Thx for the view and question and good luck!
Dan o could be a sign of a crank sensor starting to go bad. Had several gm vehicles that would start fine then drive great but after shutting off later wouldn’t start until it cooled off completely . Ended up being crank sensor going out. Usually tho you will get a code through ecm to check.
I changed out the ICM but just noticed in the box that the new one came in that there are 3 red rubber pads that go around the plugs/studs that the coils fit on. I didn't notice that they weren't on the ICM. So is it important that I go back and get them on ? Thanks
If you can afford it, change them all. But it is not necessary. You may want to make a note somewhere of the date of the one you change though. Thanks for the view and comment and good luck!
My 1999 Buick LeSabre we'll just shut off when going down the highway, if you put it in neutral it will start immediately if you stop and put it in park it will start immediately and run perfectly also it may do it twice in one day it might not do it after 10 hours of driving, use the car last week drove 8 hours down 8 hours back a mile from my house at shut off I was thinking crank position sensor but it's throwing no codes, change fuel filter and checked pump pressure pump pressures fine. Any suggestions would be helpful
Danton Steele - Cylinder 1 misfire means that Cylinder 1 has a bad signal from somewhere, check spark plug, spark plug wire, and coil pack. Check module/board under coil pack for corrosion.
Actually they are correct , although the numbering sequence looks funny to me. Barbours auto help on YT helped me out on that one as I asked him same question. Thanks!
CaptianWiggles Hi, I have a 97 late Year Pontiac Grand Prix GT 3.8 L Engine. It will not stay started even after a jump. It just dies without warning. I previously replaced the Ignition Control Module with a Use Part and it ran for a little while then stopped. I then replaced my Starter with a New Starter, it ran for a while but now I am back to having the same problem. Could it be the Old Used Ignition Control Module or is it my Alternator? It's hard to find knowledgeable, honest Mechanics. Please Help. Thanks = )
CaptainWiggles Thank you so much for your response. With the past issue, the Car would stop and would want to start but wouldn't without a jump. Sometimes, even with a Jump, it struggles to start. With the most recent issue, the Car while started will not hold its charge. Then, when I try to start it, the Battery seems dead.
PreciousRareFind Ok, I think it is either the battery or the alternator. To test your altenator, start the car, with it running, carefully take the positive battery cable off the battery, don't let it touch any metal, just hold it. If the car stays running its your battery. If it dies it's the alternator. Hope that helps, let me know!
I had same problem..or even the car would die while driving and roll to a stop. I noticed that when i went to use a portable charger, it wasnt charging it and thought i needed a new battery..same problem after new battery.. it turned out that all I had to do was change the terminal bolts on the cables that hook up to the car battery. When I went to screw in the neutral side on the battery it was screwing a little bit and then go loose and when I replaced it never had a problem since and it only cost $2 to fix with about 10 minutes of a youtube guide lol
My car is throwing the p0171 code. Someone told me to replace this, as I've replaced the injectors, checked for vacuum leaks, etc. Does that sound right?
Hi thx for the view an comment, it was running really rough and hesitating, lack of power to the point where you didn't want to pull out into traffic because it was so slow to get up to speed. It was also throwing a code when scanned with a obdII scanner, I don't remember which code..maybe P0300?
I took the tops off all my coils and there were Sparks on each one. That being said...what do I do about cylinder 1 misfire and bad stuff like u said happening...
Hope you fixed it by now but if the coils are sparking then you have to check the wire to make sure its putting spark into the spark plug and check the spark plug to make sure that any good and not cracked or broken after that you look at the fuel injector and finally a compression tester to see if maybe you got a stuck bent broken valve or crack in the head or some other physical damage that prevents combustion such as fried broken missing piston rings for example or a hole in your piston or broken connecting rod or bad head gasket
I have a 1997 Buick lesabre 3.8 n I change crank sensor and camshaft sensor on my car in it still cut off y I’m driving it then I went to junkyard get icm ignition control module to replace it did better for lil long but still cut off on me should I go buy a new one ignition control module n if that don’t fixed it what else could it be ?
Jm0n3y Hey sorry I was workin. Check ur MAF sensor, if it's dirty jus buy a new one, I never had luck cleaning it. Also u might need a new coil pack. When mine ran rough, stalled, and had rough idle, it was a combo of MAF sensor, coil packs, plugs, and a couple rotten rubber connecters on the vacuum lines, good luck bro!
When you change the crankshaft position sensor, a "Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) Variation Learn Procedure" is necessary afterward.. A knowledgeable mechanic with the proper scan tool should be able to do it in around 30 minutes..
Danton Steele - I'm putting on used coils from low milage car from junkyard. Yes you can put new coils on old module as long as it's not old/corroded. Good luck!
Hi, thanks for the view and comment. It was running really rough and hesitating when I pressed the gas to the point where I didn't want to pull out in traffic because it took so lng to get up to speed. Even with the pedal floored. Good Luck!
Kaela TV easy way to check the to remove coil Wire individually and check each unit spark. If you got good spark to all coils then icm probably not the problem. If you have a coil that wont fire then it’s either coil bad( you can check resistance to be sure though) or probably icm bad. Usually code P0300 will show up also
Hi thx for the view an comment, it was running really rough and hesitating, lack of power to the point where you didn't want to pull out into traffic because it was so slow to get up to speed. It was also throwing a code when scanned with a obdII scanner, I don't remember which code for sure, but I think it was P0300. Good luck!
Hi, Thanks for the view and comment! I think I paid $40 for mine at my local Pick-n-Pull, or junk/parts yard depending on where you are. I pulled it of an identical Buick, with LOW miles, (70,000) - that is important if you are going to buy it used.
CaptianWiggles Well, I put on a brand new icm cables and coils but no change. Misfiring randomly. It's got a blown gasquet doh. Do you think it can be the problem? I mean I be been stop leaking it for two years fine.
If you've done that much already, I'd check the Spark Plugs, the Vacuum Hoses and Connectors, and also the PCV Valve all are a easy fix. I have a vid on the PCV Valve on my channel. Also, I'd cheack your Upper Intake Manifold for your leak before the head gasket, it is a common problem in the 3800 Series II, and also your Tensioner Coolant Elbow might have a leak, another common problem, they break because they are plastic, I also have a vid on that, I replaced it with a Metal one. Anyway, Good Luck man!
I've done spark plugs, wires, coils, swapped an ICM, cleaned throttle body, EGR, and idle valve. Also fixed a vacuum leak and pcv valve. It keeps misfiring. It starts immediately but uneven
I’ll be doing this soon, car hesitates under a heavy load. Tune up already and new coil packs. At 175K and 17 years old maybe it’s my issue. If not back to the mechanic she goes
Sounds like it could be it, if it doesn't work, if you don't already have one, pick up a obd II code scanner from harbor freight or auto zone, they are like $20 and could save you a lot of $$$. If anything, it can narrow it down so the shop guys can't bulls#&* you. Good luck and thanks for the view and comment 👍
@@aileenwagner2576 Yes, it was running really rough, and it was hesitating when I put the peddle down, to the point where I didn't want to pull out in traffic. I believe it also had a p0171 code when I scanned it. Hope that helps, good luck!
Is ur security light on or has it been on lately other than when u start the car? If yes, it's probably ur VATS system (security). Just to make sure, battery is good right, it cranks, but won't start?
Ok, unfortunately the scanner is the best way to go about trouble shooting at this point. Parts get expensive, I think cheapest icm I could find new was $80. Message me back when u get your scanner on it and I will try to help
Clear all error codes! It also protects the electronic devices from being zapped. Disconnect the battery, while marking the plug wires, undo the bolts.. thermal Grease and put everything back together. Reconnect the battery... where do I put the thermal Grease?
Good practice to replace coils and module at 100,000 miles along with wires, plugs, fuel and air filters. And PLEASE USE THERMAL PASTE, NOT DIELECTRIC GREASE on the bottom of icm. A very thin layer.
When you apply any thermal grease on a new ignition Control module how much do you apply? I'm afraid I put too much (like 1-2 tsp, Silicon Thermal Compound)). Do you know what can be the consequences if you put too much (the Module fm the back looked like a buttered piece of bread).?The car runs normally, but I want to double check, maybe I need to remove some of extra paste. Thanks for your comment.
@@johnwagner4559 Thank you for your replay. The car is 2003 Chevrolet Cavalier w/ECOTEC 2.2 engine. I've read somewhere that there are at least 2 types of IC Modules and the one for ECOTEC 2.2 doesn't require any thermal grease since have a cooper think inside. So the car was running without any thermal grease on ICM, but I always thought it might should be added since we are in Texas. Now I added some Silicon Thermal Heat Compound (I think in excessive amount), the car runs as before, seams no changes. I think I'd better remove that ICM again and clean it leaving a very thin layer as you say. Thank you again.
@@CaptianWiggles You spend 8:19 showing how to replace the Ignition Control Module, and you can't add 10 seconds proving that your engine is "fixed?" Don't be sarcastic.
Thank you for the instructions, my son and I replaced the coil module and the three coil packs and spark plugs yesterday and the engine light finally went off on our 2003 Chevy Malibu. We numbered the wires and new packs. Thank you.
Oh, and I will always use the anti seize lubricant on the spark plugs boots from now on, they were very hard to remove.
Awesome 👍 glad my vid helped you out! Have a great day and keep diy-ing!
Good job on explaining and showing the installation. Of note, You should always put HEAT SINK grease under the Ignition Module and under each Coil. Also Dielectric grease on the plug ends for the harness. The Heat Sink grease is vital to take heat away from the Coils and the Ignition module. Be sure not to confuse Heat Sink with Dielectric grease, many auto parts stores do not know the difference. You can get it under the Wells brand at most auto parts stores or online.
Can you just add the paste on a later date?
@@andrewoliver9686 it will burn it out probably. add 1/16 in of heat sink on bottom
that can ruin it icm a computer reads coil packs jeepers
I just replaced my ICM thanks to you. Thank you very much!!!!
No problem! Thanks for the view and comment!
was you getting a no start ? i changed my crank and cam sensor both, still wont start, was wondering if this might be the cure,, fuel pump is pushing good to the rails
Thanks for the great video! Clear camera work, Fast Forward in the right spots.
Thank you!
You forgot one important step. Before installing a new ICM you need to install "thermal grease" on the bottom of it. This is NOT dielectric grease because it will destroy the ICM. Also, not using thermal grease will prematurely cause it to fail.
Correct, I hope people watching this to learn are at least are aware of that.
Thermal Grease?? Oh no! I got dielectric grease.. I hadn’t swapped out the ICM, yet. I have a 1990 Buick LeSabre Limited V6-3800.. I believe it’s original and it started shutting down at 265,000 miles. I noticed my MAF sensor was shorted out and caused shutdown issues..
This is what i was looking for! Is it just on the bottom or on the terminals too?
If i put dielectric grease i can still just wipe it off and apply thermal it won't do no harm. right
Where would I purchase thermal grease? Is application on back of ICM only or mounting bracket too?
Awesome instructions. After watching your example I feel that I can save myself$400. They want $461.00. Thank you.
EDDIE HARPER. No problem. Shop labor is expensive! Dont forget the electric grease tho, i think i forgot to put that in vid. Thx for view and comment!
Thats a bullshit, asshole
Never use dielectric grease! Use a thermal paste, works much much better for protection and cool transfer.
Thank you! You saved me $100 dollars from what I was quoted to do this.
Me too. Thank you so much.
Don't know how I missed these comments but thank you!
I have a 2004 Buick LeSabre with 3800 V6. It has 180,000 miles on it. The ICM needs replaced- I replaced one years ago on a Grand Prix- doing the same thing. The engine has a tapping noise now because on pushrod is not getting enough oil. The camshaft probably. My mechanic said to get a new engine, or get a newer car. I am torn about what to do. I have done a lot of repairs over the years. The transmission has been rebuilt, and, and, and. All major repairs have been done. The old Buick has leather interior that looks nearl new when cleaned up. The paint is still good. No rust. And the newer cars are so cheaply made- cheap interiors, plastic, cheap fabric. I have a mind to spend $4000 on a new engine, but not until it gets worse. The mechanic said to keep driving it. He said it might last a long time yet as is. Thanks for the video. I believe I can do the ICM no problem. I can the thermal grease/heat sink grease from a computer store. No auto parts stores in my area have it. The ICM needs replacing like now! Rough idle, weak acceleration.
You are exactly correct about new cars. My 2001 Buick regal has 196k I'd put s new engine in it before i bought a "' new" overpriced slapped - together turd.
Awesome Thanks for the complete video! ! 👍🏽
Thanks for the view and comment!
Good video! Must be nice to be able to access everything so easily. The ICM and coils on my 98 Camaro 3800 II are in the worst frigging spot.
Good luck, thx for the view an comment!
Oh god i know exactly what you mean. I seen the location to the 3.8 in the camaro vs the series 2. Yeah hard to get too on the spot.
Great video, im going to attempt this today, ive change my mass are flow sensor, and it was still doing the same, so now im going to change the whole icm and coils🤞..i refuse to pay an arm and leg when i can dirty my manicure for a quick sec. Thanks again
Thx for the view and comment! I hope that does it, good luck!
It did , it was quick and easy..thanks again
@@visewilcox7348 Hell yea! Nice!
Does it work
Took 6 mins top
Thanks. good video and common-sense salvage tip.
This seems easy enough. I went to both Autozone and Advance auto. Both had the module. Both had the diekectric grease. Neither store had heat sink grease or thermal grease. They had no idea what I was talking about. Any other common names for these? Any suggestions on where I can get this grease?
Thanks bro!! Very helpful
Excellent job / nice video CW! I take it the ICM you removed was the original part (1997). How many miles did it have on it when it began to fail? I'm doing the same operation on my '94 Buick Regal, 3.8L Series I / L27 (same coil packs, same ICM). Many thanks for sharing. Thumbs up!
Thank you, yea it was the original ICM, I believe first probs started around 130,000 mi. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thermal Grease?? How much is it? I got dielectric grease... I got a 1990 Buick LeSabre 3800.. It’s been cutting out, total shutdown.
Excellent, thank you
I've changed my ignition control module, egr, and map sensor on a 97 saturn sc1. But I'm still getting map sensor low voltage, egr low voltage, and cam shaft sensor low voltage. Is it possible that the ignition module isn't grounded? And where do I put the di-electric grease? Just on the power coil terminals? Thanks for any help!
Thanks for the view and question. Does the battery light come or is it on? If so it might just be a dying battery, or alternator. The other causes could be a loose wiring harness at the sensors, make sure they're plugged in tight. A bad starter, or something in the starting circuit, or possibly the cam shaft sensor might be bad itself.
Die-electric grease goes on the terminals only, thermal paste ( heat sink grease) goes under icm, and under each coil pack. Hope this helps man, good luck!
@The Gentleman Farmer (captianwiggles) all the lights seem fine. Not dim while engine running or off. It doesn't have a cam shaft sensor though. Everything I've found is its referring to icm. My shop has oked the harnesses. Thanks for the clarity on the die-electric grease. Any other thoughts would be appreciated, otherwise. Thank you for your time.
Thank you for the film. Can you tell what grease goes inside of the ICM and possibly where do you apply it? In my coil compartment ( to the very right under the bigger connector) for the ICM there was a blob of some grease. Is it supposed to be there? And if so what grease is it? For the new ICM AC
Delco gives a pack of grease to put on the female connectors, but where exactly? And nothing said to put into the coil compartment. Do you put any grease on the metallic plate of the module? My original Module (2003 Chevrolet Cavalier, Eco Tec 2.2 engine) doesn't have any visible scratches on the metallic plate.
Hi, sorry I missed this, yes, you want Thermal Paste in between the plate and module and clean and replace any grease/paste that is in any other location with the provided packet. Hope that helped!
@@CaptianWiggles Thank you for the replay. I found out through some research that there are 2 ICM types (at least), and mine (EcoTec 2.2 engine) doesn't require any heat transfer compounds, since it is equiped inside with cooper heat sinks (under the transistors), so just dielectric grease (or silicon conpound0 is needed to lubricate connectors in the way that water doesn't penetrate.
You actually don’t need to unplug the spark plug wires from the coil packs, to remove them from the ignition module.
This helped so much!!!
Glad it helped! Thx for the view and comment!
Great vid! Lots of information. When doing this, do you have to disconnect neg battery cable? Thanks!
Thx for the view and comment! Just disconnect the battery completely!
Thx for the view and comment! Just disconnect the battery completely!
Hey Nice Video Your A Great Mechanic Are You located In Houston I Have A 01 Buick LeSabre & I changed my starter, spark plugs,engine cords,new battery & I even changed my fuel filter smh. At first I was having trouble starting my car. If I turn it off I’ll have to wait for it to start back up & now it won’t start at all. Someone told me my alternator but I really need some help cause I did all this work & now it would even start. I just got the new battery 2 Days Ago because my car wouldn’t hold charge I tried jumping it nothing happen it just clicks one time like it wants to turn over but nun
Tammeran Fuse- Hi, thanks for the view and compliment. 1. If the battery was brand new from store, I would have them test it. If it's not new sounds like u need a new one. 2. I would then re-check all the spark plug wires and plugs and make sure they are in order.
3. If you can get it started, you can check the alternator by carfully taking the positive cable off the battery, if it dies, bad alternator.
Post back, me and others will try to help.
I was trying to remove the bottom coil pack for cylinders 4 and 1 and I could not get the left bolt out and finally had to use a grinder to finely grind the thing off because the bolt is stuck inside and I don't know what to do other than take the whole bracket off and mess with it. Was told that I'd have to rethread it and to just buy a new ICM but that bolt wont release it from the bracket. I've tried everything as far as pliers go to try to loosen the screw between the plug for the coil pack and it will not move. It's hard because you have zero room and trying not to bend the ends of the plug that sit on both sides of the bolt..Are there any suggestions?
keithjohnson839 i just went through the same issue 2 days ago. All my bolts that mount coils were rusted. You mentioned pliers being used but did you try vise grips? If not try those. Its how I ended up getting mine out. I too grinded off the head of bolt to get coil off but used the vise grips to remove thread portion. Also I forgot to mention that even after i used grinder on bolt head instill couldn’t get coil off. My icm was bad so I ended up just buying a new coil ( $18 ) because i took a screw driver and put it under the right side of that same coil u are having issues with and pried it off. The coil had rust so would had failed eventually anyways but thats how I got it the coil off. The icm harness bolt also was rusted (7mm) I believe. I ended up finding a socket that would fit better that the 7mm because rust deteriorated the size and that finally removed the icm harness
Oh yeah, i tried vice grips.. now I'm looking at getting the 2 bolts that hold the bracket on off and mess with it more (after taking off the other coil packs).. I've swapped out an ICM before and I swapped out coil packs before and never had a problem and I'm thinking this was caused because I probably did not use grease underneath the ICM when it was swapped out and it heated up that one bolt and melted it inside..only explanation i can think of for that bolt not moving inside..or someone cross threaded it when i had a tune up done for free
keithjohnson839 dont use die electric grease. Use heat sink grease(its the white stuff that comes with new icm) i used die electric before and ruined icm pretty fast
keithjohnson839 my bolts were all pretty rusted. Try kroil oil and let it sit then try grips again. That stuff is amazing
Ohio Harley Rider where exactly do you put the grease at
YOU MUST USE DIELECTRIC GREASE BEFORE INSTALLING NEW MODULE SO HEAT DISSIPATION TAKES PLACE DURING OPERATION!
You DO NOT use DIELECTRIC grease on the base/heat sink. You DO USE THERMAL CONDUCTIVE PASTE. This is the reason soooo many people have these ICMs fail prematurely.
Hmm, interesting. I agree in NOT using 'dielectric' grease. Thermal perhaps okay. I contacted WELLS directly and specifically regarding this question for this particular ICM (DR158) and was advised to INSTALL DRY, no greases. I followed said recommendation, no performance issues. Thx. for the excellent video CW.
Good info great video but where do you put thermal paste on I to have no idea lol thanks.
Agree you want heat to transfer from module to the heat sink for maximium heat dissipation ..a little goes a long way!
Im about to change mine but, I thought you had to put thermal paste on the bottom plate or it would burn out. Why is no one else saying that. I thought it was really really important. Am I wrong?
I re-did the cylinders and the control module and it still has a rough shaking idle. 01 park Ave
Hi! Check all your vacuum lines and the rubber connectors, you can get a multipack of replacement connectors and replacement line at napa auto or pretty much any parts store. Its more than likely one or more of the rubber connections.
Thanks for the view and question!
Excelent video, good luck
I need help I own a 2002 Buick Regal with the 3.8 litre Series II motor & I am having a long extended crank issue when the engine is cold & then car eventually starts I replaced the spark plugs, new fuel pressure regulator, new fuel filter, new fuel line, new MAF sensor but still having a hard time starting the engine when the motor is cold could you let me know how can I solve this problem & I'm guessing that my fuel pump is weak or the crank sensor is bad or is it my ignition coil pack please get back to me Thanks.
From reading your comment, I would say you are right about the ICM. Sounds like it might have gotten dirty or maybe fluid found it's way over there, either way I would start with the ICM. It can be failing but still crank. Bad crank sensor would be a no start I believe, and same for fuel pump plus possible smell. Even if that wasn't the whole issue, it will definitely improve performance.
To be honest my fuel pump does come on as I turn the key on but could it be my ignition coil pack or is my fuel pump getting weak?
@@fordmustang98guy I'm pretty sure if it was the fuel pump it wouldn't start at all. It might also be your ignition switch. That would be the VATS system. Is your security light on or come on and go off at anytime other than startup? If it does, that's probably it. I have a vid on that too, VATS BYPASS
The Gentleman Farmer (captianwiggles) My security light is not on I have no warning lights on at all but what could it be causing it to crank for an extended time
@@fordmustang98guy I think your problem is the VATS system. It is the chip on your key. It shows a certain level of resistance to the ignition switch module. The problem is the tilt on the steering wheel over time breaks the wires to the module. To fix it watch my VATS video, it is very easy and cheap, like $0.25! The same exact issue you are having is fixed in that video. Thanks for watching and good luck man!
Would that cause flashing security light no click no crank. Had one replaced yr.so ago had staling and cut off engine.I my battery terminals got me up running when moving them but not this time
Hi! Thanks for the view and question! I think that no click, no crank, but battery is good, would be the VATS (vehicle anti theft) system. I have a video on that too take a look at it, hopefully that will help.
ua-cam.com/video/y4DGySWh6eo/v-deo.html
Captainwiggles My car will start and run fine (I deliver pizzas) so on warmer days after I shut it off then come back out to start it immediately or 20 mins later it won't start until the engine cools a little.... Does this sound like a bad ignition control module or coils?
Hi, sorry for the delayed reply, Idk if that would be your problem. A bad coil(s) would throw a code if I remember right. I would check the safety chip on your key, clean it with a pencil eraser and get some key graphite lube, the ignition key cylinder has a chip reader for the key chip and they do and make starting your car a hit an miss if they are dirty. This would probably make the Security dash light come on though. I would also check your batteries terminal posts, might need to b cleaned or loose connection. After that I would check starter and connections, then New spark plugs and wires. Sorry its so broad an answer, but hard to tell without more info. Thx for the view and question and good luck!
Dan o could be a sign of a crank sensor starting to go bad. Had several gm vehicles that would start fine then drive great but after shutting off later wouldn’t start until it cooled off completely . Ended up being crank sensor going out. Usually tho you will get a code through ecm to check.
I changed out the ICM but just noticed in the box that the new one came in that there are 3 red rubber pads that go around the plugs/studs that the coils fit on. I didn't notice that they weren't on the ICM. So is it important that I go back and get them on ? Thanks
Hi, yea I would at least go check, they probably go on there. Thanks for view and comment!
should a Thermal Paste be added ti the bottom of the ICM prior to installing??
Yes, a thin amount of thermal paste on the bottom
I have seen by replacing just one bad coil is the fix however so many say that all the coil packs should be changed is this not true?
If you can afford it, change them all. But it is not necessary. You may want to make a note somewhere of the date of the one you change though. Thanks for the view and comment and good luck!
My 1999 Buick LeSabre we'll just shut off when going down the highway, if you put it in neutral it will start immediately if you stop and put it in park it will start immediately and run perfectly also it may do it twice in one day it might not do it after 10 hours of driving, use the car last week drove 8 hours down 8 hours back a mile from my house at shut off I was thinking crank position sensor but it's throwing no codes, change fuel filter and checked pump pressure pump pressures fine. Any suggestions would be helpful
clean your throttle body
Will u have to do the sparkplugs too if your changing that icm and or coil packs
Danton Steele - You don't have to but probably needs it soon. In a pinch I would wait
Danton Steele - Cylinder 1 misfire means that Cylinder 1 has a bad signal from somewhere, check spark plug, spark plug wire, and coil pack. Check module/board under coil pack for corrosion.
Wonder why the 2/5 cylinder numbers on the coil pack are opposite of what they should be??? Nice video!
I'm not sure either....Thanks for the view and comment though!
Actually they are correct , although the numbering sequence looks funny to me. Barbours auto help on YT helped me out on that one as I asked him same question. Thanks!
It has to do with the firing order.
Good question, let us know after you find out
CaptianWiggles
Hi, I have a 97 late Year Pontiac Grand Prix GT 3.8 L Engine. It will not stay started even after a jump. It just dies without warning. I previously replaced the Ignition Control Module with a Use Part and it ran for a little while then stopped. I then replaced my Starter with a New Starter, it ran for a while but now I am back to having the same problem. Could it be the Old Used Ignition Control Module or is it my Alternator? It's hard to find knowledgeable, honest Mechanics. Please Help. Thanks = )
Hi! Thanks for the view and comment. So ill try to help as much as I can. Does the battery die? Or does the car itself die?
CaptainWiggles
Thank you so much for your response. With the past issue, the Car would stop and would want to start but wouldn't without a jump. Sometimes, even with a Jump, it struggles to start. With the most recent issue, the Car while started will not hold its charge. Then, when I try to start it, the Battery seems dead.
PreciousRareFind Ok, I think it is either the battery or the alternator. To test your altenator, start the car, with it running, carefully take the positive battery cable off the battery, don't let it touch any metal, just hold it. If the car stays running its your battery. If it dies it's the alternator. Hope that helps, let me know!
I had same problem..or even the car would die while driving and roll to a stop. I noticed that when i went to use a portable charger, it wasnt charging it and thought i needed a new battery..same problem after new battery.. it turned out that all I had to do was change the terminal bolts on the cables that hook up to the car battery. When I went to screw in the neutral side on the battery it was screwing a little bit and then go loose and when I replaced it never had a problem since and it only cost $2 to fix with about 10 minutes of a youtube guide lol
did you fix your car
Where did you put the thermal grease on the coils? Or on the bottom of the icm
Hi, thx for the view and comment, the Dielectric goes on the bottom on the icm. Good luck!
@@CaptianWiggles thanks
My car is throwing the p0171 code. Someone told me to replace this, as I've replaced the injectors, checked for vacuum leaks, etc. Does that sound right?
Yea that sounds right, don't forget the dielectric grease!
@@CaptianWiggles thank you brother! Appreciate the quick response. I won't forget the dielectric grease either. Thank you again.
Np bro, good luck!
Hey, my bad, I meant Thermal grease****
@@CaptianWiggles ok got it. Thanks for the correction.
how did you know it needed to be changed what was the car doing
Hi thx for the view an comment, it was running really rough and hesitating, lack of power to the point where you didn't want to pull out into traffic because it was so slow to get up to speed. It was also throwing a code when scanned with a obdII scanner, I don't remember which code..maybe P0300?
I took the tops off all my coils and there were Sparks on each one.
That being said...what do I do about cylinder 1 misfire and bad stuff like u said happening...
Hope you fixed it by now but if the coils are sparking then you have to check the wire to make sure its putting spark into the spark plug and check the spark plug to make sure that any good and not cracked or broken after that you look at the fuel injector and finally a compression tester to see if maybe you got a stuck bent broken valve or crack in the head or some other physical damage that prevents combustion such as fried broken missing piston rings for example or a hole in your piston or broken connecting rod or bad head gasket
I have a 1997 Buick lesabre 3.8 n I change crank sensor and camshaft sensor on my car in it still cut off y I’m driving it then I went to junkyard get icm ignition control module to replace it did better for lil long but still cut off on me should I go buy a new one ignition control module n if that don’t fixed it what else could it be ?
Call me at +19014532776 jamal if have the answer plz
Jm0n3y Hey sorry I was workin. Check ur MAF sensor, if it's dirty jus buy a new one, I never had luck cleaning it. Also u might need a new coil pack. When mine ran rough, stalled, and had rough idle, it was a combo of MAF sensor, coil packs, plugs, and a couple rotten rubber connecters on the vacuum lines, good luck bro!
When you change the crankshaft position sensor, a "Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) Variation Learn Procedure" is necessary afterward.. A knowledgeable mechanic with the proper scan tool should be able to do it in around 30 minutes..
Put up a video of it from a few days ago. I didnt get the upper dash though.
Are u putting same coils on.and can u put new coils on old modules?
Danton Steele - I'm putting on used coils from low milage car from junkyard. Yes you can put new coils on old module as long as it's not old/corroded. Good luck!
How did you know you needed a new one? What did your car sound like when you started it up?
Hi, thanks for the view and comment. It was running really rough and hesitating when I pressed the gas to the point where I didn't want to pull out in traffic because it took so lng to get up to speed. Even with the pedal floored. Good Luck!
Has nothing to do with sound. Has everything to do with diagnostics beginning with diagnostic codes.
Kaela TV easy way to check the to remove coil
Wire individually and check each unit spark. If you got good spark to all coils then icm probably not the problem. If you have a coil that wont fire then it’s either coil bad( you can check resistance to be sure though) or probably icm bad. Usually code P0300 will show up also
@@finley614 a bad icm will cause you not to have fire at all?
how did you know it was bad please explain thank you
Hi thx for the view an comment, it was running really rough and hesitating, lack of power to the point where you didn't want to pull out into traffic because it was so slow to get up to speed. It was also throwing a code when scanned with a obdII scanner, I don't remember which code for sure, but I think it was P0300. Good luck!
Good Job,
Thanks
there is a wire that is just loose mine..its right there and comes out the wire harness behind the coils..what does it connect to??
Jason Allen it's a ground wire mine was like that too there a long bolt sticking out that wire goes on that bolt
I believe it is the Ground Wire, just like Jj Jackson said.
yes the older models were grounded these new cars from 1996 and up were kinda built in to were a ground isnt needed but good to have anyway
What color is the wire??
How many miles on that car?
About 160,000.
Thanks for the view and comment!
One thing that irks me about working on the late 90s GM cars. They use metric and sae fastners all over.
Dude you forgot to put die electric freeze between the plates.it will get hot and weld itself together.eventually. grease.
How much you pay for it? A new one for mine would cost close to 100 bucks
Hi, Thanks for the view and comment! I think I paid $40 for mine at my local Pick-n-Pull, or junk/parts yard depending on where you are. I pulled it of an identical Buick, with LOW miles, (70,000) - that is important if you are going to buy it used.
CaptianWiggles Well, I put on a brand new icm cables and coils but no change. Misfiring randomly. It's got a blown gasquet doh. Do you think it can be the problem? I mean I be been stop leaking it for two years fine.
If you've done that much already, I'd check the Spark Plugs, the Vacuum Hoses and Connectors, and also the PCV Valve all are a easy fix. I have a vid on the PCV Valve on my channel.
Also, I'd cheack your Upper Intake Manifold for your leak before the head gasket, it is a common problem in the 3800 Series II, and also your Tensioner Coolant Elbow might have a leak, another common problem, they break because they are plastic, I also have a vid on that, I replaced it with a Metal one.
Anyway, Good Luck man!
I've done spark plugs, wires, coils, swapped an ICM, cleaned throttle body, EGR, and idle valve. Also fixed a vacuum leak and pcv valve. It keeps misfiring. It starts immediately but uneven
depends really the supercharged 3.8 are more pricey than the N/A models anywhere from 100$ to 250$
I’ll be doing this soon, car hesitates under a heavy load. Tune up already and new coil packs. At 175K and 17 years old maybe it’s my issue. If not back to the mechanic she goes
Sounds like it could be it, if it doesn't work, if you don't already have one, pick up a obd II code scanner from harbor freight or auto zone, they are like $20 and could save you a lot of $$$. If anything, it can narrow it down so the shop guys can't bulls#&* you. Good luck and thanks for the view and comment 👍
@@CaptianWiggles Thank u for answering this comment. Is this how u knew u had a bad ICM? What was ur car doing? Thank u!
@@aileenwagner2576 Yes, it was running really rough, and it was hesitating when I put the peddle down, to the point where I didn't want to pull out in traffic. I believe it also had a p0171 code when I scanned it. Hope that helps, good luck!
My car didnt throw any codes. But yet kept stalling and wouldnt move underload. Now wont start at all. No spark. 160 k miles. 97 lesabre.
Is ur security light on or has it been on lately other than when u start the car? If yes, it's probably ur VATS system (security). Just to make sure, battery is good right, it cranks, but won't start?
No security light. Had a buddy hook up to the battery we let it charge etc.
Has plenty of fuel pressure and volume. Just not sparking at all. Im guessing Icm burned out. Havent hooked a scanner to it. Will this Friday.
Ok, unfortunately the scanner is the best way to go about trouble shooting at this point. Parts get expensive, I think cheapest icm I could find new was $80. Message me back when u get your scanner on it and I will try to help
What happens when you turn the key exactly?
1st disconnect battery
Why do u do that?
Clear all error codes! It also protects the electronic devices from being zapped. Disconnect the battery, while marking the plug wires, undo the bolts.. thermal Grease and put everything back together. Reconnect the battery... where do I put the thermal Grease?
This whole time I'm just wondering how the hell you have a 3800 with a battery under the hood. Mines under my rear seat where I was sure they all were
Many are under the hood.
Newer models, 2000's and up are under seat.
My 2004 is under the hood
All park avenues have them under the hood.
Never seen one under a seat. What a pain on the arse
No dialectic grease?
Ok
Where’s the thermal paste it’s gonna overheat!
Good practice to replace coils and module at 100,000 miles along with wires, plugs, fuel and air filters. And PLEASE USE THERMAL PASTE, NOT DIELECTRIC GREASE on the bottom of icm. A very thin layer.
When you apply any thermal grease on a new ignition Control module how much do you apply? I'm afraid I put too much (like 1-2 tsp, Silicon Thermal Compound)). Do you know what can be the consequences if you put too much (the Module fm the back looked like a buttered piece of bread).?The car runs normally, but I want to double check, maybe I need to remove some of extra paste. Thanks for your comment.
@@olenaerhardt7725 Just a light coat. No more!
@@johnwagner4559 Thank you for your replay. The car is 2003 Chevrolet Cavalier w/ECOTEC 2.2 engine. I've read somewhere that there are at least 2 types of IC Modules and the one for ECOTEC 2.2 doesn't require any thermal grease since have a cooper think inside. So the car was running without any thermal grease on ICM, but I always thought it might should be added since we are in Texas. Now I added some Silicon Thermal Heat Compound (I think in excessive amount), the car runs as before, seams no changes. I think I'd better remove that ICM again and clean it leaving a very thin layer as you say. Thank you again.
Would have been nice to see you start the car when finished . . . .
My bad, I will make a "how to start your car vid" and send you the link. Thx for the view and comment!
@@CaptianWiggles You spend 8:19 showing how to replace the Ignition Control Module, and you can't add 10 seconds proving that your engine is "fixed?" Don't be sarcastic.
No, I'm too busy. Sorry, I didn't have time to start it. I used that 1 second to edit and post.
@@CaptianWiggles Millennial . . .
No, I'm alot older than that. But thx bro, u made my day.
Never put thermal skin
The video keeps buffering. Can't watch it
Restart ur phone 👍
Mine to
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It doesnt fucking working. I need Hel0
Help!!!
Need Silicone Heat Sink Compound on the back of the Ignition Control Module to transfer the heat away or it will get hot and shorten the life.