Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. It wasn't Exactly the same problem you had, But the Belt skipped out of line due to the A/C Compressor replacement pulleys Bearings wearing out. The belt became ripped on the edge, and wrapped around the crankshaft pulley causing the entire sensor to become blocked with debris strings from the belt. I knew it had something to do with My Friends Belt making a noise approximately (ONE Minute) before the Engine cut off. "Thanks to your video, it led me straight to the problem" and I Greatly Appreciate It!!!! Now He can go see his family on Christmas!!! Ny Friend is 75 Years Old, and was diagnosed with cancer earlier this year. He actually has a chemotherapy appointment in the morning. The clutch is being replaced on his pickup truck, so this was his only means of transportation. Thank You So Much From the Bottom of My Heart!! I Pray You have a Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year!!!:). May God Bless You, and your Family My Friend!!!!!
Holy shit, haha I had the EXACT same thing happen last month. I replaced the belt about 4 years ago when the water pump broke and belt snapped while driving. When I installed the new belt I kind of knicked/damaged it. I had doubts but used it anyways and it lasted this long before getting wrapped up on the crank pulley and broke the crank position sensor in half. Cars back running great thanks to all the great videos on UA-cam 😅
For those having intermittent stall issues after replacing the sensor, you may want to check the ignition coils. Coils are notorious for failing when they are influenced by temperature. On most of these 3800 series engines, there is also an ignition solid state controller and they can fail as well.
You can also do a direct upgrade of the coil pack and ICM with the Series 1 coils; the brackets and connectors are the exact same, but they are better tech. You can't upgrade, however, to the series 2.
I had a 89 lesabre.Other than my 92 park avenue, BEST CAR IN THE WORLD !! Mine would stall occasionally and it turned out to be MAF sensor and it had almost 300,000 miles on it.I sold it cuz it was beginning to have alot of issues but it still run. Love the ol 3800s. If u keep them up theyll last forever i also have a 84 lesabre coupe with a 307 olds. Another great engine
I let this car go in 2015. It may have been a rust bucket but I still miss it. All of my vehicles today are nicer from an objective standpoint but I'm beginning to think that someday I'll be that old man talking about how much he liked his 1991 Buick LeSabre, where he went with it, what he did in it, etc... And that I'll hardly talk about the what I own now at all.
This engine was in the Australian Holden Commodore from 1988 (VN) up until 2004 (VY)! Similar car to the Buick Regal/Sabre but RWD. They were the Pontiac G8 in the USA. This stalling issues has come my way and is annoying the absolute heck out of me, currently going through wire loom to look for corrosion or shorted wires. Aside from this massive stalling issue (google it, there's hundreds of threads across the Holden Commodore and Buicks) they last for 500,000km+ although a bit heavy on fuel.
@@TheApothecaryAus Agree completely. They were efficient for their time but not so much today. But they do last a very long time with no major maintenance. Like all engines they have some weaknesses - in this case the CPS is one of them.
Your video was really well done. Thank you for taking the time to post it. My 94 LeSabre was stalling intermittently when I braked. This, hopefully (fingers crossed - prayers said) solved the problem. Thank you for posting it! Sincerely, Jeff L.
I use TV tuner contact clear and lubricant (I bough it at Radio Shack many years ago) to clean and protect the contacts of my car sensors and other electrical wiring. Basically it has thin mineral oil to protect the contact from water and atmospheric contamination. It will not block electrical current from flowing because the contact friction will remove that oil layer, but at the connector removal, the oil flows back again over the contact. It works! Another hinti is to lubricate the connector rubber seal with some silicon or spark plug grease, so it will become water tight. Dab some of the same grease where the wires enter the connectors.
NICE! I knew my problem was the crank shaft position sensor ! Before I do any thing I always check out the you tube.. it saves time money and much more.. thanks guys..
Thank you for the video - my 1988 Park Ave 3.8L stalled a few times today - I replaced the fuel pump relay while on the road - and was planning to maybe change the fuel pump - but I think the problem is exactly what you pointed out. Appreciate you taking the time to post. Thanks again.
Oh I got one of those the LN3 Mine did that too. I am rebuilding it anyway got one head pulled doing the other head soon. And gotta get a new starter solenoid. I'll get a new one with a new connector. I'll try to protect against corrosion because of it. Probably some dielectric grease may help. The reason I am redoing it is because the manifold gaskets weren't done correctly and caused a leak the person forgot the RTV at the corners. I got new gaskets but decided to do head gaskets as well due to it all being right there. Now at least I know why it would crap out and stall. It started at by the end of the drive way it stalled and would not start again. Thanks for the video.
GB Oxgard from Home Depot has zinc in it, very good for electrical connections, especially if potentially exposed to outside elements, weather & such. - take care
Code testers have a wiggle test to check wiring problems. If there's a problem, it'll flash a code. Then you go to that sensor. Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, freeze-frame, graphing, emissions readiness test, oxygen sensor test, ABS, SRS, and MORE! It comes with a black pouch. Get a USB cable to update it. It checks up to 2013 out-of- the-box. It includes a OBDI Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and Toyota adapter. The battery is under the cover under that small screw. It retains the memory of results. It's well-lit!
I have 1994 Olds with 3800 engine, it runs great but stalls intermittently only on deceleration and at slow speeds. It may stall 2 times in a few blocks and then not stall for days. It typically restarts first try. It never stalls on acceleration.
I have an 1986 Buick park avenue. It vibrates harshly at start up and continues even after it idles down. Continues when driving. have replaced motor mounts and mechanic says it 's not missing. Check engine light is not on. Any ideas?
If you really want to stop this from happening, don't use WD-40. It won't last long enough. Instead, get some dielectric grease and go in there with a brush. The grease will protect the thing from corroding far better than would WD-40.
My 1989 Buick Reatta had a serpentine belt separate along the splines, and pieces of the belt destroyed the crank sensor -- the car immediately stalled and would not restart at all (there was no spark)..... Interestingly, the day before this event, the car stalled randomly and abruptly a couple times, and threw a code (engine electrical problem), but would restart immediately and seem to run fine.... Well I pulled the balancer and installed a new sensor to replace the broken one (one of the 'ears' of the old sensor was completely broken off).... AFTER the repair, the car immediately started (even after sitting 3 weeks) and ran strong, EXCEPT the random stalling and throwing the code remained (the service engine light would appear, for a while, then dissappear for several miles, then you'd hear a skip and the light would reappear -- sometimes stalling)..... The code is E034, which indicates MAF sensor (there is no code thrown specifically for the crank sensor)..... *** Because of the timing of the first instance of the stalling and code, I'm wondering if the serpentine belt caused damage that I did not (yet) see?.... Would either a defective crank sensor, or an intermittent loss of connection (partly broken or loose wire), cause the car to randomly and abruplly stall? The MAF is on the other side of the engine, so I don't see how it could have been physically affected by the belt break -- but perhaps there's a wire (ground?) that's been affected?
Great video! Thanks. I have 3800 Ser 1 in 1990 park ave. Runs great except stalling when hot. Handmedown car and I've been told it stalled more when hot and sometimes cooling down helps it restart. So, I checked the wires at Crank Sensor and found one or more wires have insulation stripped off down by connector. Maybe from a belt coming off and hitting them. Could this ARC when HOT and short very easily? It's oily in the area and I am going to clean it up. Wires are tight in connector and seams that cooling down and pulling on wire has got it going again (so far). I watched both videos and replacement is big job for me. How would you clean and wrap the wiring and is there any TEST to determine that sensor or connections are faulty? Car does not have a tach. Also, some people have posted there is a way to replace the sensor without removing the Harmonic balancer. Do you think there is a way to do that?
The toothbrush isn’t enough after using contact cleaner on the sensor- there’s also corrosion in the connector! Burnish after cleaning, then seal with dielectric. This goes for any sensor/connector - Crank sensor, cam sensor, MAP, MAF, o2, VSS, ABS...even spark plugs/wires, battery terminals, alternator, head/tail/signal/running lights. Good preventative maintenance when replacing failed etc electrical ANYTHING.
my baby mother and I are investing in a 1982 Buick Century and I say it cranks but it doesn't want to stay running when it's in drive and the Mufflers loud this helps out a lot
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, freeze frame, oxygen sensor test, ABS, SRS, and MORE! It includes OBDI adaptor for Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and Toyota. Get a USB cable to update it. The screen is well-lit. It retains the memory of results. The battery is under the cover under the screw in the back. It's either a AA or AAA. It comes in a black pouch.
Good video and good catch with the tach not working correctly! Seems when you put the weather pack connector back in even though it is silicon a little siliglide rubbed on the ribbed portion could not hurt either?
Silicone is mostly unaffected by oils and other typical contaminants, but if the wiper gaskets get 'bound up' and do not slide smoothly against the mating surface lubricant can help. I find that WD-40 or equivalent works just fine, but other solutions would work at least as well.
Man you are so lucky to own such an engine. Here in Europe 3.8L is huge and pretty rare. The average size is 1.4L. I own a 2.0L TDI on a golf. Not to mention that the annual tax for a large motor is more that $US3000. :) Great video.
Goddamn dude. Your country is screwing you out of tons of fun. Any 3800 series is a great engine due to the reliability. But yeah there are several bigger engines out there we can get. The most unique engine design I have to say would be by ol Pontisnack. The 350 and 455 and most of their engine blocks were exactly the same. They utilized changine bore dimensions and larger cams, pistons etc to get difference displacement and compression. Chevy a sister company changed the whole block. This is why 350 pontiac heads will fit a 455 block and many of their other engines even the 301 turd. This in my opinion made Pontiac very unique engine designers. Although you wouldn't want to swap and mix and match engines it still is pretty cool. They were basically early engine modders before it became really popular. Pontiac in my opinion never had body design issues but they sucked hard for general engine design aside from a few gems in the V8's. Most of the time if someone owns a pontiac they will have to rebuild it with a higher standard of care and then the engine will be perfect. The 3800 however was taken from GM and placed in many many many cars and was one of the longest running engine designs to date. I would say they are as strong as a 350 but not nearly as powerful. Too bad Europe is uppity about shit like that because you guys can't seem to fart without a piece of legislation being written of when and where to do it. If I were you I would take two inline four engines and weld the blocks and design my own engine and put it in a dune buggy I built and research the shit out of engine building and have me some fun. Chances are the cops won't have an inline 8 engine so they would probably not catch you lol. And yes there have been folks weld engines together and get them running. A guy on UA-cam did it with 4 briggs and stratton lawn mower engines. Funny looking contraption but it worked.
I have a 1990 and it usually only stalls when I first start it and I put it in drive or reverse idk what exactly the problem is but if I put it in park or neutral it’s idle back up and not stall
Thanks for the price update - that seems fair to me assuming the shop and diagnostic fee assuming the crank sensor also had to be replaced. Running a business is expensive anymore with all of the laws you need to make sure you're following to the letter and the liability risks. And that shop likely put in a GM sensor rather than the BYD garbage I used. I mean it worked for me on this one-off job but, well, I wouldn't put that in a customer's car and risk having to do the job twice on my own dime.
Mine doesn't stall, but it acts like it might. Just has been running rough in general. Every once in a while it won't start... if you give it a minute and try again it will start. Sometimes it starts great, and other times it starts and sounds like its going to putter out but it never does... Not sure what is going on with it.
I have a 1995 buick lesabre it will not stay running maybe like 3 or 4 seconds. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump relay...I was told by a shop that I have 0 fuel pressure...Help Please!
Have a 1989 Buick century 3300 and it started doing the same thing drive it for a while then out of the blue shuts down? Changed so far fuel filter and plugs new battery and checked alternator all good. But same problem? Now I will check for this out and will change fuel filter also.
I have a 1994 Buick park avenue and it is having the same problem as this Buick on the video... my needle would jump around and my coolant and oil light will come on then the car will shut off while driving... took it to a shop and the services I received was an intake manifold gasket along with a few other services leaving me with a 1500.00 bill... got my car out the shop and it is still shutting off but it runs better than before... now their computer is saying that my circuit is low with my TP sensor... I am getting very aggrieved with this situation... could it really be the crank sensor or the tp sensor?? help a female... please
MY 1990 PARK AVE WITH 47K MILES ON NOW SHUTS DOWN WHILE DRIVING AND MOST OF THE TIME IT WILL START AGAIN, ONLY ONCE IT WOULDN'T, THE SHOP HAS REPLACED PARTS TO THE TUNE OF $1100 AND IT DOES THE SAME THING, THEY SAY THEY TEATED THE CPI AND IT TESTED OK, HOWEVER WHY CAN'T THIS PART BE OK ONE MINUTE AND THE NEXT MINUTE NOT, ESPECIALLY SINCE THE CAR TOTALLY DIES AND THEN STARTS UP AGAIN, VERY STRANGE PROBLEM AND THE SHOP GUYS CAN'T FIGURE IT OUT.
If your shop 'tested' the crank position sensor you need to find a different shop. They cannot be tested on a running vehicle - only when it is in a fail condition and since your vehicle starts back up most of the time your problem is intermittent and any competent mechanic will NOT test the CPS if you have an intermittent failure as no useful data can be obtained that way. I recommend you find a different mechanic.
Man I have the same idle problem I was suspious of spark plugs but im gonna do.ur way first .so u just cleaned up.the connectors and did not change the sensor .right
Last year same thing happened with my 1994 Buick lesabre, I changed the crank shaft sencor and it fired right up and been work sence then, until now same thing happens but after we changed the sencor again it won't start, and if it does it stall then won't fire up again, plus my service engine soon light is on, which means a tune up, any ideas won't be great before I waste money at the shop. Could it be the position sencor?
Hey, I just changed the crank shaft sensor yesterday, and my 1995 Park Ave. stalled on the freeway. Other people say it might be the fuel regulator sensor...... I don't know
Lone Wolf Use butt end of screw driver tap MAP sensor (Its black in color made of thick hard plastic approx 2 1/2 inches long by 1 1/2 inch wide) sensor is directly behind manifold you can see it with your eyes no need look behind manifold, right side of alternator, If MAP sensor is bad or faulty. Guarantee your car wont start. You can either buy new $75 or buy salvage $35
Lone Wolf Engine stalls? Its fuel related have fuel filter checked you need replace this part every year filter get dirty clogged which prevent fuel reach engine. Also check fuel regulator. Dont usually need replace part just use air hose clean it out.
Your videos rock and you helped me change my Crankshaft position sensor. i am still having an issue with it stalling but only when left to idle to long. if i tap on my crank sensor it lets me start it back up again so i am curious if you have a suggestion as to what it may be? could it be a faulty sensor or does the pcm need to relearn the sensor? is it possible the connector is bad? Thanks in advance!
i got a 97 buick regal 3800 it just died after a long trip while parked at idle,, wouldnt restart, waited a few , it ran but had to keep gas revved up, then it died at idle again and wont restart, waited over night started for a second then off again and wont restart.......... all fuses good, only error is evap selenoid. I was told it should at least start if that was only issue any idea ???
i have a 2001 buick lesabre 3800 motor and while i am driving once ive been driving for like 30 minutes straight then it misses it backfires and then finally shuts down it has 2 kool off for like 30 or 45 minutes and then it cuts off i have brought the crank shaft position censor and also the fuel pump and spot or other things but i still have the same problem what should i do next? what could it be??????? please help
very knowledgable about 3800,s, thank you!! quick question, i have a 1991 olds 88 with the 3800, i found a 1997 potiac with the gen.2, will the gen.2 swap right out using all the same wiring, etc.,, etc., or are they not interchangable?? thank you very much for any advice!!! take care n stay safe!
The gen2 is quite a bit different. I'm sure someone more knowledgable than myself could tell you what is required to swap, but it won't just drop in. The gen2's were good engines with more power and smoother, but the first gen engines were tanks. No plastic manifolds, fittings, or failing engine mounts here!
The 3800 is 3.8L in displacement so both are correct. There was an older 3.8L GM engine which was a V8 with two cylinders removed but that's obviously not the subject of this video.
Hi dear friend! At my Buick park Avenue 1991 when i start engine begin workin after 0.15 - 0.20 min she begin smooth vibration and turn of if you wont startagain it is impossible, i looked spurk plugs se that all of them wet by fuel. May be same problem?
I have replace one coil, it was shorting thru insulation, then the crank sensor, now the cam sensor. no help. pigtails look like new. the symptom is like the whole engine shuts down and back on fast. One person thought my ignition key switch in the steering wheel column is bad.
You should have the 440T4, also known as the 4T60 in that vehicle. The 4T60E has a different TCC setup. Regardless, you most likely have a clutch failure and need a new transmission. It could be a valve body problem but usually with this sort of thing the problem is mechanical and catastrophic. You could have a transmission shop diagnose to make sure sure, but I think you're either going to have to scrap the car or get a rebuilt/salvage transmission put in.
Great video 👍👏, it will come in handy for the next time my car stalls on me. I changed the alternator, spark plugs, fuel pump and fuel filter. An still cuts off, now I have something to go on next time it happens.
i had a car with that engine. it actually spun a rod bearing on the way home from the dealer. i was dumbfounded because i know these engines are reliable. the dealer ended up replacing that engine with a reman and we drove it for several years it was a 1987 bonneville. we have owned several 3800 engines since, and usually its the last thing to go. i have a 2000 GTP with the L67, strong, powerful and reasonable on fuel. sadly the salt is getting to it, because it only has 162K on it, that's right i said only 162k because these engines can last 300k+
andrew donohue I have a 93 Bonneville with 42,000 miles. If I can keep the winter salt from turning it into a rust bucket, it may last another 24 years.
I have a 1989 Oldsmobile 98 Regency Brougham. It’s turns over but doesn’t want to start. I replaced the starter, battery, fuel filter, fuel injectors pigtail, spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition coil pack, all relays in fuse box under glove department and still nothing! Any suggestions??? It’s the 3.8L v6
Well... I'd go back to fuel/air/spark. Check for spark on each of the 3 coils - this can be done with a simple jumper wire if necessary. Check for fuel - this can be done by spraying starting fluid into the intake and cranking it over. As for air if it has decent compression as heard by turning it over you are fine. It has to be one of those 3! I assume it is turning over and actually cranking?
o8 grand prix i had a the stall issue and hard start. I changed my air filter and it never happened again. I know. How stupid , ive never heard of that befor. I even bought crank position sensor and that $60 relay people where haveing problems with stalling. There still in boxes brand new
Sounds like your throttle body position sensor or mass air flow. I had it happen with a VW that would die if you didn't get it gas and ran terrible till I replaced it.
Thanks a lot for this, including the advice of just wiggling the wires and connector if in a pinch, which worked! Restored from the dead! Should dielectric grease go directly on the contacts also? Or only on the silicone boot (crankshaft sensor)?
I performed this and now my Tachometer is ok but upon starting the SES light came on and threw code 56 which is quad drvr and could be a code for a bad CPS?
Not sure on your wiring but my 2003 buick lesabre with 270k had random stalling, would randomly idle so high I had to restart to shift out of park for fear of damage and also had a surging overdrive and passing gear that usually never kicked in. I cleaned the ground connection on top of transmission behind air box because I saw signs of corrosion hiding underneath. Fixed all these issues.
I believe it should be on the top somewhere, its super accessible easy no tools needed. It’s connected to a small black box. The connector looks the same as the camshaft
I have a 1990 oldsmobile 88, it's throwing a code 42 for timing but not crankshaft. Could it still be the crankshaft sensor? No other codes are being thrown. So I'm at a lost but a buddy of mine did recommend this sensor
+dakota feth One thing that can happen with these is an issue with the camshaft sensor. That sensor relies on a small magnet in the cam gear to get it's readings, and that magnet can fall out. Fixing that has cured these problems for some people who have been baffled by this problem. That said, I don't think it's an easy DIY fix.
I have a 2004 Grand Prix GT with 285,000 miles. A few days ago I had a misfire in cylinder 6. I bought a new coil pack and replaced it and the car works fine for one day. As I was driving home that night the car stalled out as soon as I got to my driveway. The car never ran hot. I tried to start it up but nothing. All electrical components are working except the AC fan isn't now. There are no codes showing. And there is no sparks coming from none of the coils now. I've checked all the fuses twice and they all are good. As a precautionary I changed the crankshaft sensor and the ignition control module and still nothing. What do I do next? ECM PCM or Timing Chain? Help??
What you do now is don't throw any more parts at it and diagnose the system(s) instead. Check that each spark plug is actually firing - pull 'em out, ground 'em with a screw driver, and verify if they are sparking at all when you crank the engine. No spark? Get out the multimeter and start checking for signals going to the ignition module. Check resistances in the coils and plug wires. Check the crank AND cam position sensors using your multimeter. Check your MAF sensor with your multimeter. If you ARE getting spark, then move on to the fuel delivery systems. Check fuel pressure, check for the "whirring" or "humming" sound that should happen from the fuel pump when you first turn the key to "ON" (but without actually engaging the starter motor). Most of the computers (PCM / ECM) in these cars are pretty solid. I've never personally had one fail on me ... although they CAN fail, it seems more likely to be something else. I wouldn't suspect a timing chain unless you verify that spark and fuel delivery are all happening. Just take your time and methodically check each system ... move from the easiest to reach stuff down to the harder to reach stuff. Not all sensor failures will trigger the computer's fault code system. Realistically, most of the fault codes the computer will report are emissions-based anyway. That's not saying ALL of them are ... but I've seen many crank position sensors fail and not throw computer codes. I've also seen MAF and cam position sensors fail without triggering any codes in the computer. Just remember: take a deep breath, be patient, don't panic, take your time, and ALWAYS start with the easiest stuff and work your way up to the more difficult stuff.
Please I have problem my lumina vt 2000 3.8 model missing problem I test on computer there is missing camshaft sensor problem and I change the sensor now sensor showing working when I start my car and give accelerator doing missing and then I drive my car 40/50 speed same missing problem please sir help me
Let me clear this up and say that you actually do not need to remove the harmonic balancer pulley to change the crank sensor I've done it on my 1990 Bonneville.
How? The fastener is behind the harmonic balancer and not accessible with that part in the way. I have another video that covers replacement of this part and see no way to replace it properly without removal of the pulley.
@@knurlgnar24 Idk I literally just took out the 2 bolts unplugged it and wiggled it out. Didn't mean to take it out actually I meant to remove the cam sensor but I'm not that bright.. So i put it back in the car and its fine..
@@caayydenn huh... It's been a while since I've worked on this particular engine so perhaps I am not remembering things correctly. Thanks for the tip. You sure it wasn't a 1992 and up 3800 which has a different system?
@@knurlgnar24 It was a 1990 just like this one but except in a Pontiac but that really makes no difference i think. I did however have to use a universal joint for the socket to fit and then a tiny wrench for the other bolt
@@caayydenn yup, Pontiac will be exactly the same. Interesting that you were able to access it with a simple u joint and small wrench. Thanks for the info, this might help some people.
I wish I could figure out why my 91 park avenue keeps stalling out while I'm turning when driving...had crank censor replaced, had ignition module replaced
Jerrad, had this issue with my '99 eight-eight Royle. I replace practically every conceivable component related to this symptom. In fact had one client I visited 3 different times and it stalled each time in the exact same place when i turned the wheel into the parking place. Had to look up to see if any UFO's where above! At any rate it kept getting worse as time went on. Come to find ut it was the "orange" ignition wire coming out of the steering column. Inside the orange wire are 2 white wires. Both are connected to the ignition on both sides of the key in order to read the resistor on the key and loop back to the computer and the other to the security system. Not sure of the sequence but the "security" light flashed a couple of times and sometimes stays on. GM security system is squirrely in short "crappy"! At any rate you can measure the resistants on your key and split the wires and get resistors equal to it so it fakes the computer..... BUT instead I got a BYPASS module from NEW ROCKYS and it is FANTASTIC!!! It has been 9 month...NO ISSUES. Also it is guarantee 100%! The instructions are awesomely simple. Hope this helps! newrockies.com/passlock-bypass-2/
@@sorrycharlie99 That's not how the VATS system works, Spammer Geff. If the module detects a failure while the engine is running, it will _not_ stop running. So, you're either full of shit, or just ignorant. In fact, the quickest way to disable the system is to cut those two white wires with the engine running -- but then you'll have a full-time Security light (not flashing). The right way is mimic the key with a resistor.
@@peak0iler Read the post mac! The module I am referring to is the security module not the ICM OR ECU. I even had a link to the part I was referring to i.e. Newrockies bypass security module site. The 2 white wires (enclosed in the orange insulator) can short out in the steering column and send a signal to the SECURITY MODULE causing it to shut the engine off. It happened to me multiple times but after installing the Newrockies bypass security MODULE (which bypasses the column wires) it has never stalled again The module is located behind the glove box. Gerrad was concerned about his issue I gave him a solution but you had nothing but ridicule. Word of advise, quit acting like the typical liberal in Washington and know the facts before coming to your own fake new conclusions. These people are known as "TWITS"!
I've owned a Buick Century of the same vintage for nearly 20 years. I've not had to do even ONE repair on it that whole time. Rock solid vehicle. I miss the days when GM made vehicles worth buying. Anymore with today's vehicles if it isn't Japanese or perhaps in some cases Korean I'm not interested and that's a very sad state of affairs. The only exception I make is pickup trucks (and vehicles on those chassis) where US manufacturers still make some of the best.
1990 oldsmobile 98 regency W/ 3.8L motor. When cold engine starts runs fine. As soon as it reaches normal temp thats when it starts stalling and running ruff. Then of course engine dies. Starts back up barely can go a block or two and dies again. By now engine temp is rinning hot and and engine wont start till it cools down. Replaced fuel pump fuel filter but still doing the same as before. I checked crankshaft senser, cleaned best i could but still doing same thing as before. NEED HELP PLEASE!! Open to all suggestion's
That was a common issue on cold startup. Fuel would leak into the vacuum line and get drawn into the engine once it fired. Did yours stall at times other than startup and still have good power?
Why do you need to replace an injector? Those almost never fail on these vehicles and such a problem will NEVER cause a stalling issue which was the title. I'm confused?
Hope the video helps and it's worth a try, but if it only stalls in hot weather it's more likely a bad sensor that needs replacing or some other electronic issue. I do have a video on replacing the sensor if you wanted to give that a shot.
Good information. Unfortunately I have a 1995 so I stopped the video at 34 seconds in. Try putting the year in the title so folks who need a different year will not drop out of your video so quickly. That should also give your % of view time on your video more time. Thanks for sharing anyways. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@knurlgnar24 It's all good I have similar requests on my channel at times. I just edit the title under the videos section. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
If the CPS is your issue the car will either run perfectly, or stop dead like all spark was cut off. If it sputters, hesitates, runs rough, lacks power, etc the CPS is not your problem.
@@knurlgnar24 it turns out the alternator is my issue, seems to ground out and not grab a charge. Jumpers came off n car died. No battery light though but seems that’s what my problem is
@@knurlgnar24 I don’t fully know my issue but the car Inguess has done it multiple times. Car always starts right back up just has very little power. Alternator is crap n seems to be my problem but Indont even know, it’s a bush race car just would be nice to have it be a good challenger for once instead of cutting out when I’m catching 1&2 place!
What about adjuster magnet Because I change the cam sensor on my mechanic told me the adjuster magnet on the timing chain sprocket broke off that’s why the car is stolen or won’t start up
You need to find a new mechanic if they are referring to the 3800 shown in the video. There are no magnets except inside the sensor itself. This sensor uses reluctor rings on the crankshaft to interrupt a magnetic field in the sensor itself to detect position. Most vehicles use a similar system, and due to timing belt and chain stretch along with variable valve timing most vehicles today have a cam position sensor in addition that works the same way.
@@knurlgnar24 I have a 1989 Buick LeSabre same engine and vehicle as the video and an this is why my buick is stalling BUICK LESABRE CAMSHAFT INTERRUPTER-MAGNET
hmug tv It makes me think MAF or fuel pump. The fuel pump can be checked with a fuel pressure tester on the shrader valve on the fuel rail. It would need to be checked at heavy throttle and at idle. The tool is around $20, but you can probably rent one for free from the local auto parts store. Check for kinks/damage to the fuel lines on the undercarriage too. You could try cleaning the MAF with electrical cleaner first since it's an easy first step. To check the MAF you'd need a more sophisticated scan tool. If it ends up being the fuel pump or clogged pickup screen from something in your tank I have a video on replacing the fuel pump on one of these vehicles - not a fun job. Search for 'GM H body fuel sending unit' if you're interested.
those are the next steps im taking, gonna clean the MAF, fuel pressure gauge is 112$ to rent so itll be a while before i can test that. ill let you know what i find out.
i replaced the cam sensor the code still shows for it though gonna try this before i pull the actual crank position sensor i really dont wann fight it but will watch your video on it because this one was so well done
I have 1998 Buick Park avenue the engine stumbles tachometer goes to zero car continue running normally tachometer still shut down shut the car down and restart the tachometer tachometer begins operating a game??
I'd have to look up how the series II engine works to give better inro but it is clear you have a sensor going out - either cam position or crank position sensor. The computer requires all of them to start the car but once running it can operate with limited information. Your tach likely only reports one of the sensors which is why when that one fails the car stumbles, recognizes the problem and starts running by using a backup sensor method, and then continues running.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. It wasn't Exactly the same problem you had, But the Belt skipped out of line due to the A/C Compressor replacement pulleys Bearings wearing out. The belt became ripped on the edge, and wrapped around the crankshaft pulley causing the entire sensor to become blocked with debris strings from the belt. I knew it had something to do with My Friends Belt making a noise approximately (ONE Minute) before the Engine cut off. "Thanks to your video, it led me straight to the problem" and I Greatly Appreciate It!!!! Now He can go see his family on Christmas!!! Ny Friend is 75 Years Old, and was diagnosed with cancer earlier this year. He actually has a chemotherapy appointment in the morning. The clutch is being replaced on his pickup truck, so this was his only means of transportation. Thank You So Much From the Bottom of My Heart!! I Pray You have a Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year!!!:). May God Bless You, and your Family My Friend!!!!!
Holy shit, haha I had the EXACT same thing happen last month. I replaced the belt about 4 years ago when the water pump broke and belt snapped while driving. When I installed the new belt I kind of knicked/damaged it. I had doubts but used it anyways and it lasted this long before getting wrapped up on the crank pulley and broke the crank position sensor in half. Cars back running great thanks to all the great videos on UA-cam 😅
For those having intermittent stall issues after replacing the sensor, you may want to check the ignition coils. Coils are notorious for failing when they are influenced by temperature. On most of these 3800 series engines, there is also an ignition solid state controller and they can fail as well.
What about the camshaft interrupter magnet on the timing chain sprocket
You can also do a direct upgrade of the coil pack and ICM with the Series 1 coils; the brackets and connectors are the exact same, but they are better tech. You can't upgrade, however, to the series 2.
I had a 89 lesabre.Other than my 92 park avenue, BEST CAR IN THE WORLD !! Mine would stall occasionally and it turned out to be MAF sensor and it had almost 300,000 miles on it.I sold it cuz it was beginning to have alot of issues but it still run. Love the ol 3800s. If u keep them up theyll last forever i also have a 84 lesabre coupe with a 307 olds. Another great engine
I let this car go in 2015. It may have been a rust bucket but I still miss it. All of my vehicles today are nicer from an objective standpoint but I'm beginning to think that someday I'll be that old man talking about how much he liked his 1991 Buick LeSabre, where he went with it, what he did in it, etc... And that I'll hardly talk about the what I own now at all.
This engine was in the Australian Holden Commodore from 1988 (VN) up until 2004 (VY)! Similar car to the Buick Regal/Sabre but RWD. They were the Pontiac G8 in the USA. This stalling issues has come my way and is annoying the absolute heck out of me, currently going through wire loom to look for corrosion or shorted wires. Aside from this massive stalling issue (google it, there's hundreds of threads across the Holden Commodore and Buicks) they last for 500,000km+ although a bit heavy on fuel.
@@TheApothecaryAus Agree completely. They were efficient for their time but not so much today. But they do last a very long time with no major maintenance. Like all engines they have some weaknesses - in this case the CPS is one of them.
Got all mine at series 1.. hate the electrical problems that shut it off while running
Thanks so much for this video. It helped me realize what my stalling issue was on my 1990 riviera. I replaced the sensor and no more stalling
Your video was really well done. Thank you for taking the time to post it. My 94 LeSabre was stalling intermittently when I braked. This, hopefully (fingers crossed - prayers said) solved the problem. Thank you for posting it! Sincerely, Jeff L.
I have the same car and the same problem, did this help you???
I use TV tuner contact clear and lubricant (I bough it at Radio Shack many years ago) to clean and protect the contacts of my car sensors and other electrical wiring. Basically it has thin mineral oil to protect the contact from water and atmospheric contamination. It will not block electrical current from flowing because the contact friction will remove that oil layer, but at the connector removal, the oil flows back again over the contact. It works!
Another hinti is to lubricate the connector rubber seal with some silicon or spark plug grease, so it will become water tight. Dab some of the same grease where the wires enter the connectors.
NICE! I knew my problem was the crank shaft position sensor ! Before I do any thing I always check out the you tube.. it saves time money and much more.. thanks guys..
Thank you for the video - my 1988 Park Ave 3.8L stalled a few times today - I replaced the fuel pump relay while on the road - and was planning to maybe change the fuel pump - but I think the problem is exactly what you pointed out. Appreciate you taking the time to post. Thanks again.
Was it the problem? My car is stalling and doesn’t start up for 20-30 minutes, but starts up again after and runs fine but then this cycle repeats
Oh I got one of those the LN3 Mine did that too. I am rebuilding it anyway got one head pulled doing the other head soon. And gotta get a new starter solenoid. I'll get a new one with a new connector. I'll try to protect against corrosion because of it. Probably some dielectric grease may help.
The reason I am redoing it is because the manifold gaskets weren't done correctly and caused a leak the person forgot the RTV at the corners. I got new gaskets but decided to do head gaskets as well due to it all being right there.
Now at least I know why it would crap out and stall. It started at by the end of the drive way it stalled and would not start again.
Thanks for the video.
GB Oxgard from Home Depot has zinc in it, very good for electrical connections, especially if potentially exposed to outside elements, weather & such. - take care
This actually worked on my 1990 Oldsmobile 88, great video!!!
Nice video. Well shot for such a tight area.
HI, so mine stalls up and starts right back up again. You think it could still be same problem?
Checking that wiring harness for opens is a good idea also.
Code testers have a wiggle test to check wiring problems. If there's a problem, it'll flash a code. Then you go to that sensor. Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, freeze-frame, graphing, emissions readiness test, oxygen sensor test, ABS, SRS, and MORE! It comes with a black pouch. Get a USB cable to update it. It checks up to 2013 out-of- the-box. It includes a OBDI Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and Toyota adapter. The battery is under the cover under that small screw. It retains the memory of results. It's well-lit!
That hood is cool how it opens
Thanks for the info. I almost junk my car after replacing everything but never thought about that
I just changed that sensor still not cranking please help me
I have 1994 Olds with 3800 engine, it runs great but stalls intermittently only on deceleration and at slow speeds. It may stall 2 times in a few blocks and then not stall for days. It typically restarts first try. It never stalls on acceleration.
Late reply but that could be the sparks or it could be your coil pack. If not maybe a ground problem
I have an 1986 Buick park avenue. It vibrates harshly at start up and continues even after it idles down. Continues when driving. have replaced motor mounts and mechanic says it 's not missing. Check engine light is not on. Any ideas?
THANK YOU!! I check and clean all connectors tomorrow. Hello from South Dakota 😆
I changed my plugs and wires now it same like it gets real hot.an make the dashboard oil Gage and water gate is not working now
If you really want to stop this from happening, don't use WD-40. It won't last long enough.
Instead, get some dielectric grease and go in there with a brush. The grease will protect the thing from corroding far better than would WD-40.
Nemo true
@@Oghurrakane I Agree.
4 years late, but I agree. Dielectric grease would have been better.
thx 4 the tip nemo
I'm having the same problems on my 90 Buick Reatta, I have a brand new sensor gonna replace it, Hopefully that does the trick
My 1989 Buick Reatta had a serpentine belt separate along the splines, and pieces of the belt destroyed the crank sensor -- the car immediately stalled and would not restart at all (there was no spark)..... Interestingly, the day before this event, the car stalled randomly and abruptly a couple times, and threw a code (engine electrical problem), but would restart immediately and seem to run fine.... Well I pulled the balancer and installed a new sensor to replace the broken one (one of the 'ears' of the old sensor was completely broken off).... AFTER the repair, the car immediately started (even after sitting 3 weeks) and ran strong, EXCEPT the random stalling and throwing the code remained (the service engine light would appear, for a while, then dissappear for several miles, then you'd hear a skip and the light would reappear -- sometimes stalling)..... The code is E034, which indicates MAF sensor (there is no code thrown specifically for the crank sensor)..... *** Because of the timing of the first instance of the stalling and code, I'm wondering if the serpentine belt caused damage that I did not (yet) see?.... Would either a defective crank sensor, or an intermittent loss of connection (partly broken or loose wire), cause the car to randomly and abruplly stall? The MAF is on the other side of the engine, so I don't see how it could have been physically affected by the belt break -- but perhaps there's a wire (ground?) that's been affected?
No. it happens intermittently, I observe especially in hot weather and in traffic.
What you did to fix your car
@@blankmanj5760 try ignition control module and coil pack
Like the way this hood opens too cool
Great video! Thanks. I have 3800 Ser 1 in 1990 park ave. Runs great except stalling when hot. Handmedown car and I've been told it stalled more when hot and sometimes cooling down helps it restart. So, I checked the wires at Crank Sensor and found one or more wires have insulation stripped off down by connector. Maybe from a belt coming off and hitting them. Could this ARC when HOT and short very easily? It's oily in the area and I am going to clean it up. Wires are tight in connector and seams that cooling down and pulling on wire has got it going again (so far). I watched both videos and replacement is big job for me. How would you clean and wrap the wiring and is there any TEST to determine that sensor or connections are faulty? Car does not have a tach. Also, some people have posted there is a way to replace the sensor without removing the Harmonic balancer. Do you think there is a way to do that?
The toothbrush isn’t enough after using contact cleaner on the sensor- there’s also corrosion in the connector! Burnish after cleaning, then seal with dielectric. This goes for any sensor/connector - Crank sensor, cam sensor, MAP, MAF, o2, VSS, ABS...even spark plugs/wires, battery terminals, alternator, head/tail/signal/running lights. Good preventative maintenance when replacing failed etc electrical ANYTHING.
my baby mother and I are investing in a 1982 Buick Century and I say it cranks but it doesn't want to stay running when it's in drive and the Mufflers loud this helps out a lot
would that be why i only get 15 miles to the gallon?
car starts runs fine then studders sometimes , intermediante backfire and will die
Did you ever figure out what was causing that?
Hey boss I followed your instructions to the tee and it was a breeze! Thank you. Still dying around 45 miles an hour. Any leads?
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, freeze frame, oxygen sensor test, ABS, SRS, and MORE! It includes OBDI adaptor for Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and Toyota. Get a USB cable to update it. The screen is well-lit. It retains the memory of results. The battery is under the cover under the screw in the back. It's either a AA or AAA. It comes in a black pouch.
@@hankbridges5055 if is start and then die after that it can be also a fuel pump resititor
@@christinammcnair1632 would that also cause intermittent power loss. Mine is like the key is turned off and on fast.
Good video and good catch with the tach not working correctly! Seems when you put the weather pack connector back in even though it is silicon a little siliglide rubbed on the ribbed portion could not hurt either?
Silicone is mostly unaffected by oils and other typical contaminants, but if the wiper gaskets get 'bound up' and do not slide smoothly against the mating surface lubricant can help. I find that WD-40 or equivalent works just fine, but other solutions would work at least as well.
Man you are so lucky to own such an engine. Here in Europe 3.8L is huge and pretty rare. The average size is 1.4L. I own a 2.0L TDI on a golf. Not to mention that the annual tax for a large motor is more that $US3000. :) Great video.
we got 6.0, 5.7, 5.3, 5.4, 7.4, 6.2
yup :)
All Great engines, V8s, great power, most of em are pretty thirsty though
Goddamn dude. Your country is screwing you out of tons of fun. Any 3800 series is a great engine due to the reliability. But yeah there are several bigger engines out there we can get.
The most unique engine design I have to say would be by ol Pontisnack. The 350 and 455 and most of their engine blocks were exactly the same. They utilized changine bore dimensions and larger cams, pistons etc to get difference displacement and compression. Chevy a sister company changed the whole block. This is why 350 pontiac heads will fit a 455 block and many of their other engines even the 301 turd. This in my opinion made Pontiac very unique engine designers. Although you wouldn't want to swap and mix and match engines it still is pretty cool. They were basically early engine modders before it became really popular.
Pontiac in my opinion never had body design issues but they sucked hard for general engine design aside from a few gems in the V8's. Most of the time if someone owns a pontiac they will have to rebuild it with a higher standard of care and then the engine will be perfect.
The 3800 however was taken from GM and placed in many many many cars and was one of the longest running engine designs to date. I would say they are as strong as a 350 but not nearly as powerful.
Too bad Europe is uppity about shit like that because you guys can't seem to fart without a piece of legislation being written of when and where to do it.
If I were you I would take two inline four engines and weld the blocks and design my own engine and put it in a dune buggy I built and research the shit out of engine building and have me some fun. Chances are the cops won't have an inline 8 engine so they would probably not catch you lol.
And yes there have been folks weld engines together and get them running. A guy on UA-cam did it with 4 briggs and stratton lawn mower engines. Funny looking contraption but it worked.
evilcowboy
I saw that briggs video you mention a while back! Interesting experiment but I'm not nearly that creative..
I use a little die electrical grease when i put the connectors back together to make a better connection and keep moisture out .
Solid advice. Some greases can cause the seals to swell and potentially leak/fail but dielectric grease is usually safe.
I have a 1990 and it usually only stalls when I first start it and I put it in drive or reverse idk what exactly the problem is but if I put it in park or neutral it’s idle back up and not stall
That was a $421.76 repair at my local dealership for my 1992 Buick Riviera
Thanks for the price update - that seems fair to me assuming the shop and diagnostic fee assuming the crank sensor also had to be replaced. Running a business is expensive anymore with all of the laws you need to make sure you're following to the letter and the liability risks. And that shop likely put in a GM sensor rather than the BYD garbage I used. I mean it worked for me on this one-off job but, well, I wouldn't put that in a customer's car and risk having to do the job twice on my own dime.
Mine doesn't stall, but it acts like it might. Just has been running rough in general. Every once in a while it won't start... if you give it a minute and try again it will start. Sometimes it starts great, and other times it starts and sounds like its going to putter out but it never does... Not sure what is going on with it.
I have a 1995 buick lesabre it will not stay running maybe like 3 or 4 seconds. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump relay...I was told by a shop that I have 0 fuel pressure...Help Please!
Thanks 4 video, used it to replace the sensor on my 2003. Very helpful. Thanks
Did it fix the problem
Those cars had too many intermittent stall problems when new.
Have a 1989 Buick century 3300 and it started doing the same thing drive it for a while then out of the blue shuts down? Changed so far fuel filter and plugs new battery and checked alternator all good. But same problem? Now I will check for this out and will change fuel filter also.
I have a 1994 Buick park avenue and it is having the same problem as this Buick on the video... my needle would jump around and my coolant and oil light will come on then the car will shut off while driving... took it to a shop and the services I received was an intake manifold gasket along with a few other services leaving me with a 1500.00 bill... got my car out the shop and it is still shutting off but it runs better than before... now their computer is saying that my circuit is low with my TP sensor... I am getting very aggrieved with this situation... could it really be the crank sensor or the tp sensor?? help a female... please
Go in to the shop with a man who acts like he knows something. Short but they'll get over on a female all day everyday. Just a little advice!!!!
Get a man!!! He's the card to play. The m mechanic is less likely to screw you over😉
I've already replaced this and it still dies...????
MY 1990 PARK AVE WITH 47K MILES ON NOW SHUTS DOWN WHILE DRIVING AND MOST OF THE TIME IT WILL START AGAIN, ONLY ONCE IT WOULDN'T, THE SHOP HAS REPLACED PARTS TO THE TUNE OF $1100 AND IT DOES THE SAME THING, THEY SAY THEY TEATED THE CPI AND IT TESTED OK, HOWEVER WHY CAN'T THIS PART BE OK ONE MINUTE AND THE NEXT MINUTE NOT, ESPECIALLY SINCE THE CAR TOTALLY DIES AND THEN STARTS UP AGAIN, VERY STRANGE PROBLEM AND THE SHOP GUYS CAN'T FIGURE IT OUT.
If your shop 'tested' the crank position sensor you need to find a different shop. They cannot be tested on a running vehicle - only when it is in a fail condition and since your vehicle starts back up most of the time your problem is intermittent and any competent mechanic will NOT test the CPS if you have an intermittent failure as no useful data can be obtained that way. I recommend you find a different mechanic.
BTW congrats on your 1990 with 47k miles. If it's rust free that thing is a gem! Well worth fixing and maintaining.
Man I have the same idle problem I was suspious of spark plugs but im gonna do.ur way first .so u just cleaned up.the connectors and did not change the sensor .right
If it is only an idle problem I would suspect something else other than the crank sensor.
Can I spray the rust remover into the actual part attached to the car?
I have the same issue with my 1990 Buick regatta. Mine would stall when I step on the brake to slow down.
did you find a solution to the problem?
Last year same thing happened with my 1994 Buick lesabre, I changed the crank shaft sencor and it fired right up and been work sence then, until now same thing happens but after we changed the sencor again it won't start, and if it does it stall then won't fire up again, plus my service engine soon light is on, which means a tune up, any ideas won't be great before I waste money at the shop. Could it be the position sencor?
Hey, I just changed the crank shaft sensor yesterday, and my 1995 Park Ave. stalled on the freeway. Other people say it might be the fuel regulator sensor...... I don't know
Lone Wolf Use butt end of screw driver tap MAP sensor (Its black in color made of thick hard plastic approx 2 1/2 inches long by 1 1/2 inch wide) sensor is directly behind manifold you can see it with your eyes no need look behind manifold, right side of alternator, If MAP sensor is bad or faulty. Guarantee your car wont start. You can either buy new $75 or buy salvage $35
Lone Wolf Engine stalls? Its fuel related have fuel filter checked you need replace this part every year filter get dirty clogged which prevent fuel reach engine. Also check fuel regulator. Dont usually need replace part just use air hose clean it out.
Your videos rock and you helped me change my Crankshaft position sensor. i am still having an issue with it stalling but only when left to idle to long. if i tap on my crank sensor it lets me start it back up again so i am curious if you have a suggestion as to what it may be? could it be a faulty sensor or does the pcm need to relearn the sensor? is it possible the connector is bad?
Thanks in advance!
Any lucky with this?
i got a 97 buick regal 3800 it just died after a long trip while parked at idle,, wouldnt restart, waited a few , it ran but had to keep gas revved up, then it died at idle again and wont restart, waited over night started for a second then off again and wont restart.......... all fuses good, only error is evap selenoid. I was told it should at least start if that was only issue any idea ???
i have a 2001 buick lesabre 3800 motor and while i am driving once ive been driving for like 30 minutes straight then it misses it backfires and then finally shuts down it has 2 kool off for like 30 or 45 minutes and then it cuts off i have brought the crank shaft position censor and also the fuel pump and spot or other things but i still have the same problem what should i do next? what could it be??????? please help
David Settles it might be ignition module
Hi i have a 1990 buick lesabre and im having trouble locating the map sensor where is it??
Same here on my 87 map sensor location?
very knowledgable about 3800,s, thank you!! quick question, i have a 1991 olds 88 with the 3800, i found a 1997 potiac with the gen.2, will the gen.2 swap right out using all the same wiring, etc.,, etc., or are they not interchangable?? thank you very much for any advice!!! take care n stay safe!
The gen2 is quite a bit different. I'm sure someone more knowledgable than myself could tell you what is required to swap, but it won't just drop in. The gen2's were good engines with more power and smoother, but the first gen engines were tanks. No plastic manifolds, fittings, or failing engine mounts here!
There is a difference in the 3.8L vs 3800 Buick engines. The title uses both names for this V6 engine.
The 3800 is 3.8L in displacement so both are correct. There was an older 3.8L GM engine which was a V8 with two cylinders removed but that's obviously not the subject of this video.
Hi dear friend! At my Buick park Avenue 1991 when i start engine begin workin after 0.15 - 0.20 min she begin smooth vibration and turn of
if you wont startagain it is impossible, i looked spurk plugs se that all of them wet by fuel.
May be same problem?
Thank you for the video. I'll give this try.
My car starts then half way down the street it stalls out and wont start till 5 minutes later what could it be
heating cooling fan or blower wont run only after a bump it will go on and off
I have replace one coil, it was shorting thru insulation, then the crank sensor, now the cam sensor. no help. pigtails look like new. the symptom is like the whole engine shuts down and back on fast. One person thought my ignition key switch in the steering wheel column is bad.
Hi, I have Buick Park Avenue 1991 with 4t60e and transmission changes only to 2nd gear, first second and revers works perfect, any ideas?
You should have the 440T4, also known as the 4T60 in that vehicle. The 4T60E has a different TCC setup. Regardless, you most likely have a clutch failure and need a new transmission. It could be a valve body problem but usually with this sort of thing the problem is mechanical and catastrophic. You could have a transmission shop diagnose to make sure sure, but I think you're either going to have to scrap the car or get a rebuilt/salvage transmission put in.
Great video 👍👏, it will come in handy for the next time my car stalls on me. I changed the alternator, spark plugs, fuel pump and fuel filter. An still cuts off, now I have something to go on next time it happens.
I just change that my car still killed on me its the camshaft one i have a 3100
Engine won't crank over. Has no fire to fuel pump. Won't fire when crossing starter over.
Thank you for the info
i had a car with that engine. it actually spun a rod bearing on the way home from the dealer. i was dumbfounded because i know these engines are reliable. the dealer ended up replacing that engine with a reman and we drove it for several years it was a 1987 bonneville. we have owned several 3800 engines since, and usually its the last thing to go. i have a 2000 GTP with the L67, strong, powerful and reasonable on fuel. sadly the salt is getting to it, because it only has 162K on it, that's right i said only 162k because these engines can last 300k+
andrew donohue I have a 93 Bonneville with 42,000 miles. If I can keep the winter salt from turning it into a rust bucket, it may last another 24 years.
I have a 1989 Oldsmobile 98 Regency Brougham. It’s turns over but doesn’t want to start. I replaced the starter, battery, fuel filter, fuel injectors pigtail, spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition coil pack, all relays in fuse box under glove department and still nothing! Any suggestions??? It’s the 3.8L v6
Well... I'd go back to fuel/air/spark. Check for spark on each of the 3 coils - this can be done with a simple jumper wire if necessary. Check for fuel - this can be done by spraying starting fluid into the intake and cranking it over. As for air if it has decent compression as heard by turning it over you are fine. It has to be one of those 3! I assume it is turning over and actually cranking?
@@knurlgnar24 yes it is
o8 grand prix i had a the stall issue and hard start. I changed my air filter and it never happened again. I know. How stupid , ive never heard of that befor. I even bought crank position sensor and that $60 relay people where haveing problems with stalling. There still in boxes brand new
I have a 98 changed crank shaft sensor and air flow sensor it will start have to hold the the gas to keep running
Sounds like your throttle body position sensor or mass air flow. I had it happen with a VW that would die if you didn't get it gas and ran terrible till I replaced it.
What does it mean when you accelerate and it dies
Maybe a plugged Catalytic Converter.
Thank you so much very good video. 👍
:)This is good, to the point no B.S. Many thanks.
Thanks a lot for this, including the advice of just wiggling the wires and connector if in a pinch, which worked! Restored from the dead!
Should dielectric grease go directly on the contacts also? Or only on the silicone boot (crankshaft sensor)?
P0342 camshaft position sensor signal missing
My car Lumina 2003 gm 3800
2003 Lumina???
I performed this and now my Tachometer is ok but upon starting the SES light came on and threw code 56 which is quad drvr and could be a code for a bad CPS?
I can't be sure but it sounds more like a wiring issue or electronic module problem. Again I am not sure.
So this def doesn’t apply to series II 3800’s? Because my 2001 park ave is having same symptoms.
Not sure on your wiring but my 2003 buick lesabre with 270k had random stalling, would randomly idle so high I had to restart to shift out of park for fear of damage and also had a surging overdrive and passing gear that usually never kicked in. I cleaned the ground connection on top of transmission behind air box because I saw signs of corrosion hiding underneath. Fixed all these issues.
What size is the tensioner pulley bolt
hey do you know where the map sensor is located?
I believe it should be on the top somewhere, its super accessible easy no tools needed. It’s connected to a small black box. The connector looks the same as the camshaft
Dielectric grease...
I have a 1990 oldsmobile 88, it's throwing a code 42 for timing but not crankshaft. Could it still be the crankshaft sensor? No other codes are being thrown. So I'm at a lost but a buddy of mine did recommend this sensor
+dakota feth One thing that can happen with these is an issue with the camshaft sensor. That sensor relies on a small magnet in the cam gear to get it's readings, and that magnet can fall out.
Fixing that has cured these problems for some people who have been baffled by this problem. That said, I don't think it's an easy DIY fix.
O wow thats What My mechanic told me
I have a 2004 Grand Prix GT with 285,000 miles. A few days ago I had a misfire in cylinder 6. I bought a new coil pack and replaced it and the car works fine for one day. As I was driving home that night the car stalled out as soon as I got to my driveway. The car never ran hot. I tried to start it up but nothing. All electrical components are working except the AC fan isn't now. There are no codes showing. And there is no sparks coming from none of the coils now. I've checked all the fuses twice and they all are good. As a precautionary I changed the crankshaft sensor and the ignition control module and still nothing. What do I do next? ECM PCM or Timing Chain? Help??
Sounds like a faulty ECM/PCM, especially if no error code is set. Don't forget to move over the "MEM-CAL" to the new/used ECM.
What you do now is don't throw any more parts at it and diagnose the system(s) instead. Check that each spark plug is actually firing - pull 'em out, ground 'em with a screw driver, and verify if they are sparking at all when you crank the engine. No spark? Get out the multimeter and start checking for signals going to the ignition module. Check resistances in the coils and plug wires. Check the crank AND cam position sensors using your multimeter. Check your MAF sensor with your multimeter. If you ARE getting spark, then move on to the fuel delivery systems. Check fuel pressure, check for the "whirring" or "humming" sound that should happen from the fuel pump when you first turn the key to "ON" (but without actually engaging the starter motor). Most of the computers (PCM / ECM) in these cars are pretty solid. I've never personally had one fail on me ... although they CAN fail, it seems more likely to be something else. I wouldn't suspect a timing chain unless you verify that spark and fuel delivery are all happening. Just take your time and methodically check each system ... move from the easiest to reach stuff down to the harder to reach stuff. Not all sensor failures will trigger the computer's fault code system. Realistically, most of the fault codes the computer will report are emissions-based anyway. That's not saying ALL of them are ... but I've seen many crank position sensors fail and not throw computer codes. I've also seen MAF and cam position sensors fail without triggering any codes in the computer. Just remember: take a deep breath, be patient, don't panic, take your time, and ALWAYS start with the easiest stuff and work your way up to the more difficult stuff.
It was a bad fuse box #24 fuse. weird
Please I have problem my lumina vt 2000 3.8 model missing problem I test on computer there is missing camshaft sensor problem and I change the sensor now sensor showing working when I start my car and give accelerator doing missing and then I drive my car 40/50 speed same missing problem please sir help me
Let me clear this up and say that you actually do not need to remove the harmonic balancer pulley to change the crank sensor I've done it on my 1990 Bonneville.
How? The fastener is behind the harmonic balancer and not accessible with that part in the way. I have another video that covers replacement of this part and see no way to replace it properly without removal of the pulley.
@@knurlgnar24 Idk I literally just took out the 2 bolts unplugged it and wiggled it out. Didn't mean to take it out actually I meant to remove the cam sensor but I'm not that bright.. So i put it back in the car and its fine..
@@caayydenn huh... It's been a while since I've worked on this particular engine so perhaps I am not remembering things correctly. Thanks for the tip. You sure it wasn't a 1992 and up 3800 which has a different system?
@@knurlgnar24 It was a 1990 just like this one but except in a Pontiac but that really makes no difference i think. I did however have to use a universal joint for the socket to fit and then a tiny wrench for the other bolt
@@caayydenn yup, Pontiac will be exactly the same. Interesting that you were able to access it with a simple u joint and small wrench. Thanks for the info, this might help some people.
Good videos,who i now if the map sensor fail thanks for the help
I wish I could figure out why my 91 park avenue keeps stalling out while I'm turning when driving...had crank censor replaced, had ignition module replaced
Jerrad, had this issue with my '99 eight-eight Royle. I replace practically every conceivable component related to this symptom. In fact had one client I visited 3 different times and it stalled each time in the exact same place when i turned the wheel into the parking place. Had to look up to see if any UFO's where above! At any rate it kept getting worse as time went on. Come to find ut it was the "orange" ignition wire coming out of the steering column. Inside the orange wire are 2 white wires. Both are connected to the ignition on both sides of the key in order to read the resistor on the key and loop back to the computer and the other to the security system. Not sure of the sequence but the "security" light flashed a couple of times and sometimes stays on. GM security system is squirrely in short "crappy"! At any rate you can measure the resistants on your key and split the wires and get resistors equal to it so it fakes the computer..... BUT instead I got a BYPASS module from NEW ROCKYS and it is FANTASTIC!!! It has been 9 month...NO ISSUES. Also it is guarantee 100%! The instructions are awesomely simple. Hope this helps! newrockies.com/passlock-bypass-2/
@@sorrycharlie99 That's not how the VATS system works, Spammer Geff. If the module detects a failure while the engine is running, it will _not_ stop running. So, you're either full of shit, or just ignorant. In fact, the quickest way to disable the system is to cut those two white wires with the engine running -- but then you'll have a full-time Security light (not flashing). The right way is mimic the key with a resistor.
@@peak0iler Read the post mac! The module I am referring to is the security module not the ICM OR ECU. I even had a link to the part I was referring to i.e. Newrockies bypass security module site. The 2 white wires (enclosed in the orange insulator) can short out in the steering column and send a signal to the SECURITY MODULE causing it to shut the engine off. It happened to me multiple times but after installing the Newrockies bypass security MODULE (which bypasses the column wires) it has never stalled again The module is located behind the glove box. Gerrad was concerned about his issue I gave him a solution but you had nothing but ridicule. Word of advise, quit acting like the typical liberal in Washington and know the facts before coming to your own fake new conclusions. These people are known as "TWITS"!
I miss my old school buick like yours but I have a 01 century now just dosent have that feel like my old boxed style buick
I've owned a Buick Century of the same vintage for nearly 20 years. I've not had to do even ONE repair on it that whole time. Rock solid vehicle. I miss the days when GM made vehicles worth buying. Anymore with today's vehicles if it isn't Japanese or perhaps in some cases Korean I'm not interested and that's a very sad state of affairs. The only exception I make is pickup trucks (and vehicles on those chassis) where US manufacturers still make some of the best.
1990 oldsmobile 98 regency W/ 3.8L motor. When cold engine starts runs fine. As soon as it reaches normal temp thats when it starts stalling and running ruff. Then of course engine dies. Starts back up barely can go a block or two and dies again. By now engine temp is rinning hot and and engine wont start till it cools down. Replaced fuel pump fuel filter but still doing the same as before. I checked crankshaft senser, cleaned best i could but still doing same thing as before. NEED HELP PLEASE!! Open to all suggestion's
William Waddington Did you ever find the cause of this problem ?
Change crank sensor Hall effect getting weak. Changing then only helps sometimes
I had the same prob but on a series 2 and it was the fuel pressure regulator
That was a common issue on cold startup. Fuel would leak into the vacuum line and get drawn into the engine once it fired. Did yours stall at times other than startup and still have good power?
***** yes out the blue it would stall
I wanted to see how the injectors were replaced I didn't need to see about the crankshaft sensor
Why do you need to replace an injector? Those almost never fail on these vehicles and such a problem will NEVER cause a stalling issue which was the title. I'm confused?
Thanks so much stalls esp in hot weather
Hope the video helps and it's worth a try, but if it only stalls in hot weather it's more likely a bad sensor that needs replacing or some other electronic issue. I do have a video on replacing the sensor if you wanted to give that a shot.
Good information. Unfortunately I have a 1995 so I stopped the video at 34 seconds in. Try putting the year in the title so folks who need a different year will not drop out of your video so quickly. That should also give your % of view time on your video more time. Thanks for sharing anyways. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
That would have been a good idea in retrospect. Thanks for the comment.
@@knurlgnar24 It's all good I have similar requests on my channel at times. I just edit the title under the videos section. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Got a 93 buick lesabre. Kept stalling out when aplying the brake. No one could figure it out. Turned out to be the fuel pump.
Its late now. But tommoorrow i will let you know if i find the problem.
So, if this is my issue, on start up would the car be in essentially a limp mode and hardly move itself?
If the CPS is your issue the car will either run perfectly, or stop dead like all spark was cut off. If it sputters, hesitates, runs rough, lacks power, etc the CPS is not your problem.
@@knurlgnar24 it turns out the alternator is my issue, seems to ground out and not grab a charge. Jumpers came off n car died. No battery light though but seems that’s what my problem is
@@knurlgnar24 I don’t fully know my issue but the car Inguess has done it multiple times. Car always starts right back up just has very little power. Alternator is crap n seems to be my problem but Indont even know, it’s a bush race car just would be nice to have it be a good challenger for once instead of cutting out when I’m catching 1&2 place!
What about adjuster magnet Because I change the cam sensor on my mechanic told me the adjuster magnet on the timing chain sprocket broke off that’s why the car is stolen or won’t start up
You need to find a new mechanic if they are referring to the 3800 shown in the video. There are no magnets except inside the sensor itself. This sensor uses reluctor rings on the crankshaft to interrupt a magnetic field in the sensor itself to detect position. Most vehicles use a similar system, and due to timing belt and chain stretch along with variable valve timing most vehicles today have a cam position sensor in addition that works the same way.
It’s a magnet on the timing chain sprocket that goes past the camshaft sensor to calculate the timing
@@knurlgnar24 I have a 1989 Buick LeSabre same engine and vehicle as the video and an this is why my buick is stalling BUICK LESABRE CAMSHAFT INTERRUPTER-MAGNET
Instead of WD-40 you could use dielectric grease right?
dielectric grease would be much better, no doubt. Most people have WD-40 on hand without needing to purchase anything and it's better than nothing.
You use WD 40 on electrical connectors?
Not usually because it is hard on rubber, but assuming the seal is silicone it works well.
Changed the cxp. Egr. Fuel filter. New tps. And fuel pressure regular and battery. Still stalls out when you accelerate. Any suggestions?
Does it run fine at idle and during mild acceleration? What year and model?
yes runs fine till i push on the gas harder than normal say on an uphill. 99 buick lesabre 3.8
hmug tv
It makes me think MAF or fuel pump. The fuel pump can be checked with a fuel pressure tester on the shrader valve on the fuel rail. It would need to be checked at heavy throttle and at idle. The tool is around $20, but you can probably rent one for free from the local auto parts store. Check for kinks/damage to the fuel lines on the undercarriage too. You could try cleaning the MAF with electrical cleaner first since it's an easy first step. To check the MAF you'd need a more sophisticated scan tool.
If it ends up being the fuel pump or clogged pickup screen from something in your tank I have a video on replacing the fuel pump on one of these vehicles - not a fun job. Search for 'GM H body fuel sending unit' if you're interested.
those are the next steps im taking, gonna clean the MAF, fuel pressure gauge is 112$ to rent so itll be a while before i can test that. ill let you know what i find out.
Did you ever find the cause of this problem....my Buick is doing the same thing ?
i replaced the cam sensor the code still shows for it though gonna try this before i pull the actual crank position sensor i really dont wann fight it but will watch your video on it because this one was so well done
Is it for sale
I have 1998 Buick Park avenue the engine stumbles tachometer goes to zero car continue running normally tachometer still shut down shut the car down and restart the tachometer tachometer begins operating a game??
I'd have to look up how the series II engine works to give better inro but it is clear you have a sensor going out - either cam position or crank position sensor. The computer requires all of them to start the car but once running it can operate with limited information. Your tach likely only reports one of the sensors which is why when that one fails the car stumbles, recognizes the problem and starts running by using a backup sensor method, and then continues running.
wer is the fuel filter on a 1992 Buick LeSabre
Look under passenger side along frame rail, half way twixed tank and engine.