I deleted mine too. I welded up the hole for the butterfly shaft instead of tapping and plugging. Added a 470 ohm resistor across the circuit for the plug and no codes. Currently diagnosing no voltage from under dash fuse box to the PCM relay and IDM relays. 12V at the 30A fuse under dash but no power to the PCM diode. Tearing out the fuse box under dash tomorrow and going to verify continuity to the PCM diode from the harness before I tear apart the fuse box and start surgery inside the fuse box. Good day and nice job on the oil leak delete.
I like this method for 2 reasons. First the OEM pedestal is heavy duty and likely better machined than an aftermarket one and should seal better. Second it costs much less and who doesn't like that.
Hey I’ve got a 97 cali obs where the fuel damper ruptured and all the literature said I gotta take all the turbo and everything off: it was cheaper to buy the wrenches and parts to fix it by over half. Ford s are vice manual states to remove the turbo so you have assess it was cheaper to buy a harbor freight crows foot we then buy the new part from. A ford stealership. I deleted it for $50 and 2 hrs time cuz I didn’t have a clue where I was and what I was doing. Regardless don’t be afraid to turn a wrench a little research goes a long way
So how has the Delete worked out over the last 6 months, specifically on the cold weather starts and idle? I'm about to do just this, except I purchased the Delete Pedestal Kit because I didn't know it could be done this way. Thanks for the video Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
The delete has worked great. The truck has always started good in cold weather and that didn't change. I have a Hydra tuner with a 1200rpm high idle tune that I use to help with warm up in cold weather.
Great video thanks for taking the time to put it together. I have my turbo and pedestal out and i just wanted to verify because I do not have a welder and I'm not planning on cutting the barrel. Can I get away with just putting the plug in the plunger hole and nothing else on the pedestal, or do I have to tap and put the small screw in as well? I plan on leaving the sensor on the front of the pedestal. Thanks again for any advice!
Yes, you can get away with just putting a plug in the plunger hole and leaving the sensor on the front of the pedestal. The small screw is not necessary, I just did it as a extra precaution.
HELP!!!! Great video...thank you it helped a lot... I took off the I.c.p. to check hpop pressure...3 second crank and it just oozes...but the truck will run🤦...i don't understand...it chugs at idle....new ipr valve....rebuilt ipr....and still...it ran fine with a few hiccups before I rebuilt the ipr....and fuel bowl.... I have no computer only volt meter...12.5v and reversed 12.8v on the ipr.. 8omms ipr.... New icp...great continuity... Not sure of volts...i will check tomorrow but I don't think that matters right now... Any ideas...i have done my research...ive posted on Facebook for help....all I get is get a regular job and pay a mechanic...i own my own company but the truck is broke😭....thank you
Removing the butterfly plate cuts down on exhaust restriction. Some say that helps the turbo to spool faster and also helps keep exhaust gas temps down.
The biggest advantage is, it removes the actuator shaft, which is a common place for a oil leak. And removing the disc also helps a little bit with better air flow.
Good job explaining that. You need a different camera. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I deleted mine too. I welded up the hole for the butterfly shaft instead of tapping and plugging. Added a 470 ohm resistor across the circuit for the plug and no codes. Currently diagnosing no voltage from under dash fuse box to the PCM relay and IDM relays. 12V at the 30A fuse under dash but no power to the PCM diode. Tearing out the fuse box under dash tomorrow and going to verify continuity to the PCM diode from the harness before I tear apart the fuse box and start surgery inside the fuse box. Good day and nice job on the oil leak delete.
Right On
What is the wattage on the 470 ohm resistor
I like this method for 2 reasons. First the OEM pedestal is heavy duty and likely better machined than an aftermarket one and should seal better. Second it costs much less and who doesn't like that.
Right On!
Hello new supporter of your channel here. This video has helped me tremendously
Dam. A deleted pedestal is cheep. Time is money. Think I’ll just buy one.. but if I was broke at this moment. This is a easy option
Never thought of doing it that way makes perfect sense
Glad you found it helpful
Hey I’ve got a 97 cali obs where the fuel damper ruptured and all the literature said I gotta take all the turbo and everything off: it was cheaper to buy the wrenches and parts to fix it by over half. Ford s are vice manual states to remove the turbo so you have assess it was cheaper to buy a harbor freight crows foot we then buy the new part from. A ford stealership. I deleted it for $50 and 2 hrs time cuz I didn’t have a clue where I was and what I was doing. Regardless don’t be afraid to turn a wrench a little research goes a long way
Right On
I simply disconnected the rod from the flapper. Then tied the flapper open.
You think works but pull or push the rod ??
So how has the Delete worked out over the last 6 months, specifically on the cold weather starts and idle?
I'm about to do just this, except I purchased the Delete Pedestal Kit because I didn't know it could be done this way. Thanks for the video Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
The delete has worked great. The truck has always started good in cold weather and that didn't change. I have a Hydra tuner with a 1200rpm high idle tune that I use to help with warm up in cold weather.
@@opasgarage4423 Thanks for the reply, the information was very helpful, I really appreciate it. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Great video thanks for taking the time to put it together. I have my turbo and pedestal out and i just wanted to verify because I do not have a welder and I'm not planning on cutting the barrel. Can I get away with just putting the plug in the plunger hole and nothing else on the pedestal, or do I have to tap and put the small screw in as well? I plan on leaving the sensor on the front of the pedestal. Thanks again for any advice!
Yes, you can get away with just putting a plug in the plunger hole and leaving the sensor on the front of the pedestal. The small screw is not necessary, I just did it as a extra precaution.
HELP!!!!
Great video...thank you it helped a lot...
I took off the I.c.p. to check hpop pressure...3 second crank and it just oozes...but the truck will run🤦...i don't understand...it chugs at idle....new ipr valve....rebuilt ipr....and still...it ran fine with a few hiccups before I rebuilt the ipr....and fuel bowl....
I have no computer only volt meter...12.5v and reversed 12.8v on the ipr..
8omms ipr....
New icp...great continuity...
Not sure of volts...i will check tomorrow but I don't think that matters right now...
Any ideas...i have done my research...ive posted on Facebook for help....all I get is get a regular job and pay a mechanic...i own my own company but the truck is broke😭....thank you
Thanks
Nice job thx
Thank You, glad it was helpful
Other then the leaks is there any advantages? Sorry new to 7.3’s
Removing the butterfly plate cuts down on exhaust restriction. Some say that helps the turbo to spool faster and also helps keep exhaust gas temps down.
Less chance for leaks as well
Freeze plugs but your is better
Thanks!
I'm just gonna spend the $100 and get the non ebpv pedestal.
Can jb weld be used to plug the three areas in the barrel?
Maybe. But I wouldn't recommend using it for that
Drill to correct size, tap correct threads, use red or green loctite and a threaded plug is best...
What's the reason this is done what's the advantage
The biggest advantage is, it removes the actuator shaft, which is a common place for a oil leak. And removing the disc also helps a little bit with better air flow.
Because the thing is annoying as hell in the morning also causes shitty up pipes to become shittier
@@rayjames6187well said sir!