The F-550 is a sweet truck in the right trim package.... And Yes you are now a Certified 7.3 mechanic :) Your lucky, could have been a 6.0 or 6.4 with EGR issues that would suck your wallet dry... and want more bucks :) I help friends do EGR deletes on their trucks! 6.0 and 6.7s
@@LivingOnWheels I got my Bro Bill's 6.0 top end finally taken apart... and what a pain! EGR cooler went bad and right side blown head gasket! A Power Stroke shop in town wants $12K+ to fix it! And have you seen a 6.0 tear down?? It's a nightmare and with me being disabled myself, Cerebral Palsy, the work is slow going! Yes, I'm thinking about sticking a Cummins in the truck :)
This series of videos have been a big help to me. The last one you did about the turbo up pipes identified an issue I was having and now i know i need to replace them. I do have a little in the valley so now I have another place to look for this slight leak. Keep up the good work and helpfulness man, I really do appreciate it.
Hey Joe, I got my first diesel Ford in 1986. I had a lawn care company. We had 15 different diesels over years. I kept 3 when I sold the company a ' 94 idi., 2000 single cab 7.3, 275k, 2000 dually 7.3 448k. ...we run Amsoil 15/40 full synthetic I change the oil filter at 25k and 50k oil change. Oh yeah the wife has à 2001 excursion with 385k. Great videos....keep them coming. I am planning body offs on all these trucks.
I've only had my '99 for a few months and I'm starting to have issues related to this series. Your videos are a wealth of information, and by "wealth" I mean you probably just saved me a lot of money lol. I knew nothing about diesel engines until I started this series. So, Thank You Sir!
Mine built 2/98 but 99. Had a prob..parts wrong..always give build date..replaced mount and turbo..4 trips to parts store..thanks young man..informative
I just replaced the turbo pedestal on a 7.3 in a school bus. Had everything apart in 15 minutes. Much easier when everything is not under the firewall.
One of the first things I did when I got my E99 7.3 was unplug the back pressure valve. Even in the early fall it was so aggressive that the truck had no power when cruising along. I constantly had to stomp on the throttle to override the valve and let the truck get into boost.
Another thing you can do to keep the butterfly valve open is to get garrets high flow outlet to slap on your turbo. Thats what I did. It lowers egts and spools up faster. Riffraff Diesel sells them.
Thank you for the detailed video Joe! I have a 2002 F-250 with 7.3 I purchased new. It’s 18 years old and starting to have these issues. I plan to change the pedestal out and delete the EGBP valve.
Hey Joe! Great video! Last summer I installed a deleted pedestal, a high flow back plate and a wicked wheel 2. One thing I didn't realize is that the 7.3 in the Ford vans did not have the back pressure valve. What this means is that you can buy factory ford/Garret pedestal and high flow back plates. The Garret backplate (ebpv delete) was like $68. Also I believe I installed a resistor into the solenoid cable so the truck would not throw any soft codes be being unplugged from pedestal.
Thanks for the information. I have looked at getting the ebpv delete. Still not convinced I’m not going to go with a whole new turbo yet haha. We will see!
@@teddycossin4679 here is a write up that may answer your question : www.dieselhub.com/performance/7.3-powerstroke-ebpv-delete.html I used a cheap two prong resistor somethinglike this: www.amazon.com/dp/B07WGNLX67/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_DZ9Y0J28KEDWGVXZ9B5C Just heat shrinked around the legs, taped it up and have been code free.
On my 02 several years ago during winter I was driving to work. I had redone my entire cooling system and installed a 180 degree thermastat. Half way to work on interstate my ebpv started closing. It was like almost getting on the brakes. My truck was running so cool it wouldn't mantain operating temp lol. It would actually cool off below operating temp and that valve would close lol. I miss that truck
Cool channel! I have a 7.3 and doing alot of work on it!! Ill show you pics if you have an email? Also what got my attention on your channel is the wheelchair! Awesome to see you not letting it set you back! My dad was in a wheel chair, paralyzed from the waste down until the day he passed. So i know your everyday struggle. Im glad to see your high spirits. I subbed.
Thanks for watching! Email is... livingonwheels.channel @gmail.com or you can send it to my instagram. If you search the channel name you should find it. As for the chair, there are definitely extra struggles, as you know, but I have never been one to just role over and let life pass by. Got too high of goals for that haha.
Difference for a E99 is you have a tp38 instead of the gtp38 (99.5-03 I believe) basically us E99 owners have a smaller turbo and the pedestal is not as tall as a later model. I’m switching over to the gtp38 if you plan on doing this you need to change your intake plenums, up pipes, turbo, and turbo pedestal. But I definitely would say it is worth it because you will have a lot better air flow sense the E99 plenum is only about 2 inches in diameter and the L99 is about 3 inches in diameter.
In CA they actually smog check the 7.3’s. If you are throwing codes or have stuff that is disconnected, you fail. And, from personal experience, they are really good at finding mods/changes. I’d like to remove the solenoid from mine but I’m pretty sure they’d fail it.
@@LivingOnWheels The delete plug is a good idea. I didn’t know about that. They would likely also find the disconnected exhaust valve. They are pretty good at spotting stuff. Last time I went they had parts assembly views of the engine making sure the right prices were there.
Joe mine is leaking I want to do the delete and rebuild turbo plus o rings top and bottom but going into that area my thought is do more while things are out of the way so I'm looking at some if the things you did and adding cost up and yes I'm finally out of my wheelchair and hobbling around just another toeless fatboy with rheumatoid arthritis trying to keep his 7.3 going thanks man for everything.
I was actually planing on doing a video showing my whole truck setup here in the near future. Unfortunately, welcome to the club. Trust me, it gets easier.
Would the o-rings on the base of the pedestal cause your truck to smoke out the exhaust?? Not the top 2 o-rings but the base?? An there's no oil on the intake side of the turbo I've replaced the injectors ipr icp cps ebp, I come to a stop light a it sometimes it surges an starts smoking or a leaky fuel bowl would you know or have any idea??thanks in advance..
Have a question …my selenoid valve on my 7.3 2001 turbo pedestal was electrical connector broke how can affect ,it’s necessary to replace what happen if I don’t replace
Just means your back pressure valve won’t work anymore. Not a big deal. It’s pretty common for people to disconnect them anyways because they’re prone to problems.
I changed my turbo pedestal out with a blank pedestal and now I'm getting po475 and 476 and when I give it the fuel my ses light comes on so what can I do to fix that . Thanks and love your videos.
The two codes are because that plug isn’t being used anymore so it’s tripping it as a malfunction. You can get a delete plug from Riffraff if you want. Those are only soft codes though. So I’d say your ses light is from something else. Could just be an overboost light.
If you delete the EBPV, what do you do with the electrical connection that actuates the valve? Does the engine throw any error codes if it doesn't detect the valve during a cold startup?
Thanks for the info. You mentioned the actuator leaking. If you unplug it, will it continue to leak in the default open position? I'm trying to trace down my leak. Oil in valley and around pedestal. Not sure if its the seals or the actuator.
Yes it can still leak if it is unplugged. It’s just a seal inside that goes bad over time. The spring inside should default to the back pressure valve in the open position.
Question... went to get on the interstate on ramp. Started to accelerate..heard a pop and now it won't accelerate quickly..it takes a few minutes to get up.what is your opinion of problem?
Thanks for video got a question I'd like to do what you said you did but I'd like a exhaust break ,have any suggestions i may want to know about? And thanks man i appreciate your videos.
There are a number of aftermarket options for exhaust brakes that don't rely on oil like this valve does. I believe Banks and Pacbrake both makes kits for our trucks.
Thanks for the video. Question, if I have just a few drops of oil pooling on the intake end of my 1997 7.3 turbo, should I be concerned? and get away with leaving it in the truck for awhile? Thanks
Thanks for doing this video. My pedestal has been leaking for a long time and I have been avoiding fixing it. I have an early 99 and would like to upgrade to the later style pedestal and bellowed up pipes at the same time. I would like to do the exhaust brake but a lot of people have told me that the butterfly valve its self is very restrictive and that I'm better off with out it. What do you think?.
rangemasterken well upgrading from the E99 to the newer stuff definitely isn’t a bad choice. The turbo might need to be changed at the same time. Not sure though. As far as converting the valve to an exhaust brake, there are a lot of people who have done is successfully and it seems to work well. Personally myself I would be more inclined to do a stand alone exhaust break down below on the truck. I’m not super familiar with exhaust breaks, I don’t know if they have safety measures built into them to help prevent over pressuring the cylinders or not. That would be my only real concern. Otherwise an exhaust brake in general can be a pretty handy thing to have. These things have towed for millions of miles with the factory valve so I don’t think it’s the end of the world if it stays in.
Hey man! I know you mentioned the AIH Delete, and i have a brand new Riffraff AIH plug. I bought it for my truck before I knew it was an "early" 99, and I never ended up sending it back. So just let me know, and if your willing to pay $5 or so for shipping ill give it to you.
@@LivingOnWheels ok, my truck wont start, but when I kick it over it spews out oil. Remember that I know nothing about diesels, so if my questions sound stupid. I do apologize. I can turn wrenches but I have no idea where to start.
I don’t own the truck anymore but I never regretted it. Never had issues with warmups on cold days and I didn’t have to deal with the valve malfunctioning and leaking anymore. In my eyes it’s just simplifying a system that didn’t really need to be there originally.
@@LivingOnWheels Thank you for the reply. I knew you got rid of the truck but just wanted your honest opinion. Thank You and I'm still a subscriber of your channel. That farmhouse project is inspiration to us all. 👍👍
I just did a full turbo pedestal O ring replacement and i am still pissing out oil is it possible for the tab on the side that your explaining to be leaking ?
The actuator arm that comes out of the passenger side of the pedestal is very prone to leaking. If you are losing a lot of oil though it could be something in your high-pressure oil system. Check for oil in the front of the pedestal in your engine valley. If there is fresh oil up there then its HPOP related. If it's dry then its probably your actuator arm.
My EBPV also stays closed below 40 degrees cruising on the highway, or anywhere. Is there anyway to fix that without deleting it? Maybe I have a bad sensor or something that works the EBPV. I've already replaced the EPG and tube going to the exhaust manifold. If anyone has any insight on that it would be very helpful. I have a straight pipe on my truck and when it closes it's so loud, sounds like a jet engine, and I also have a slight loss of power. Thanks
Hmm. My guess would have been your back pressure sensor but you replaced that. Maybe your air intake sensor has gone bad and is showing the default -40 which is causing it to stay on longer. Other than that I’m not sure what it would be.
Thanks for the informative tips. I have a 03 7.3 F350, i bought it and it was probably sitting for about 5 years or more. i've done a ton of work on it and was driving it for about 2 days when i had motor oil coming out my exhaust. any advice on that please.
It could be the turbo but it would be pretty obvious if the turbo was that bad. Did you happen to have the injectors out at some point? If so you’re probably seeing some of the oil that drained into the cylinders.
@@LivingOnWheels i just put in some refurbished injectors from a reliable source. a friend told me that probably the seals on the injectors or maybe the orings on the pedastal. please advise what do you mean about bad turbo being that obvious
@@saigahman Oil pedestol seals wont cuase oil to go through the exhaust. If you just recently replaced the injectores then you are probably seeing the oil that drained into your cylinders from pulling the injectors. Did you clear the cylinders through the glow plugs holes before putting it all back together?
@@LivingOnWheels Hi Joe, I am seeing like a quart of motor oil coming out the exhaust. I dont know about clearing the cylinders. After doing the work, i drove like 20 miles and then oil came out of the exhaust.
@@saigahman well if you didn’t know about clearing out the cylinders and didn’t do it then you’re lucky you didn’t hydro lock your engine or bend a rod. You will have also blown about a quart of fuel and oil into your exhaust system. Check you oil system to make sure it’s not continually going down and just drive it. It should clear up.
Hey Joe ...what's you thoughts on installing a wicked wheel 2 on turbo.....I'm thinking about it.. Plus, when I install my new turbo delete pedestal....should I also install the turbo sleeve without the butterfly ? At your convenience....thx
I have only heard good things about the wicked wheel 2. It seems to work well for eliminating turbo surge and helps with boost a little. Not bad upgrade in my opinion unless you don't like louder turbo whistle. It will be louder than stock. Just make sure to get the wheel for the OBS trucks and not the super duty. As for replacing the turbo outlet for a high flow one without the valve. If you have the turbo out and plan on installing the delete pedestal then I personally would also delete the valve. No point in having it in there restricting flow if it's not going to be used for anything.
@@LivingOnWheels Thx Joe......BUT.....you left me hanging on a bombshell without a explanation (very unlike you) lol You said DO NOT get the wheel for the Super Duty (which like you, is what I have) you said get it for the OBS.....what the heck is that about ???????
Oops my bad haha. For some reason I thought you had an OBS. Lots of poeple to keep track of. Belay my first comment. Make sure to get the super duty one 😂 the intention was to make sure you get the one that fits your truck.
Ohhhhh that makes more sense haha. The code it throws is a soft code so it doesnt trip a check engine light or anything. It’s just kinda there doing nothing. I let it be like that for a while. Eventually bought RiffRaffs code eliminator plug that is basically just a little resister cap that the plug plugs into.
So when you say cold , I live in pittsburgh pa. It gets kinda cold in the winter do you think do this delete will hurt me in the long run or will it just take longer for the truck to warm up ? Thank you for your time joe
Благодарю за видео!Я из России владею форд ф-250,7.3,2001г.Наконец я понял,что это за штука(у меня уже отключена).Прошу помощи в преобретении жгута проводов моторного отсека,не могу найти даже номер детали для заказа.Спасибо.
Я бы порекомендовал посетить веб-сайт RiffRaff Diesel. Я думаю, что они продают жгуты двигателя. Не уверен, что они доставляются внутри страны, но, по крайней мере, это может помочь вам получить номер детали.
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Boy, I bought my F550 7.3L had no intention of becoming a certified 7.3L mechanic 🤣 but that's what's happening, Thanks Buddy
haha learn something new every day.
The F-550 is a sweet truck in the right trim package.... And Yes you are now a Certified 7.3 mechanic :) Your lucky, could have been a 6.0 or 6.4 with EGR issues that would suck your wallet dry... and want more bucks :) I help friends do EGR deletes on their trucks! 6.0 and 6.7s
Daniel McQueen I wouldn’t mind owning a 6.0 one day but I will never buy a 6.4 unless it’s to pull it out and put a Cummins in haha
@@LivingOnWheels I got my Bro Bill's 6.0 top end finally taken apart... and what a pain! EGR cooler went bad and right side blown head gasket! A Power Stroke shop in town wants $12K+ to fix it! And have you seen a 6.0 tear down?? It's a nightmare and with me being disabled myself, Cerebral Palsy, the work is slow going! Yes, I'm thinking about sticking a Cummins in the truck :)
As a new 7.3 owner I thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge!!!!
This series of videos have been a big help to me. The last one you did about the turbo up pipes identified an issue I was having and now i know i need to replace them. I do have a little in the valley so now I have another place to look for this slight leak. Keep up the good work and helpfulness man, I really do appreciate it.
I am glad they have been helpful!
Luckily leaking up pipes usually isn’t something that’s needs immediate attention, but it’s always good to be aware of things like that.
Excellent explanation for someone who’s just learning. Thanks!
Your videos are by far the best on 7.3 powerstroke , thanks bro
I appreciate it. Try to share it all the best I can without being too boring.
Hey Joe, I got my first diesel Ford in 1986. I had a lawn care company. We had 15 different diesels over years. I kept 3 when I sold the company a ' 94 idi., 2000 single cab 7.3, 275k, 2000 dually 7.3 448k. ...we run Amsoil 15/40 full synthetic I change the oil filter at 25k and 50k oil change. Oh yeah the wife has à 2001 excursion with 385k. Great videos....keep them coming. I am planning body offs on all these trucks.
James Emmenecker Sr. Daaaaang. Those are some huge intervals! Sounds like you have quite the fleet.
@@LivingOnWheels Amsoil will guarantee those intervals. I do them on all my cars. 1 year or 20,000 miles per vehicle.
I've only had my '99 for a few months and I'm starting to have issues related to this series. Your videos are a wealth of information, and by "wealth" I mean you probably just saved me a lot of money lol. I knew nothing about diesel engines until I started this series. So, Thank You Sir!
Mine built 2/98 but 99. Had a prob..parts wrong..always give build date..replaced mount and turbo..4 trips to parts store..thanks young man..informative
super informative! thanks!!
I'm out on a farm.in the middle of nowhere. I couldn't even get back to town. you saved the day!
Really glad it helped!
I just replaced the turbo pedestal on a 7.3 in a school bus. Had everything apart in 15 minutes. Much easier when everything is not under the firewall.
No doubt!
Thank you I have a 1997 PS and hopefully they are similar
Thanks for the info. I'm having the same problem with my 2000 F-350
One of the first things I did when I got my E99 7.3 was unplug the back pressure valve. Even in the early fall it was so aggressive that the truck had no power when cruising along. I constantly had to stomp on the throttle to override the valve and let the truck get into boost.
Great video Joe
Another thing you can do to keep the butterfly valve open is to get garrets high flow outlet to slap on your turbo. Thats what I did. It lowers egts and spools up faster. Riffraff Diesel sells them.
Yes, I totally meant to mention that and completely forgot! Thanks for bringing it to the comment section.
Thank you for the detailed video Joe! I have a 2002 F-250 with 7.3 I purchased new. It’s 18 years old and starting to have these issues. I plan to change the pedestal out and delete the EGBP valve.
Good to hear they are helpful! Also just for your own knowledge, it usually abbreviated as EBPV 👍🏻
Living On Wheels have you replaced your high pressure lines?
Jeff Patterson The Every Day Man I have. Bought a set from CNC Fab and gave been pretty happy with them
Hey Joe! Great video! Last summer I installed a deleted pedestal, a high flow back plate and a wicked wheel 2. One thing I didn't realize is that the 7.3 in the Ford vans did not have the back pressure valve. What this means is that you can buy factory ford/Garret pedestal and high flow back plates. The Garret backplate (ebpv delete) was like $68. Also I believe I installed a resistor into the solenoid cable so the truck would not throw any soft codes be being unplugged from pedestal.
Thanks for the information. I have looked at getting the ebpv delete. Still not convinced I’m not going to go with a whole new turbo yet haha. We will see!
Then what is the solenoid you unplugged actuation then?
That is the problem that I'm having, ses light after installing blank pedestal so do you have the part # to the resister that you purchased. Thank you
@@teddycossin4679 here is a write up that may answer your question : www.dieselhub.com/performance/7.3-powerstroke-ebpv-delete.html
I used a cheap two prong resistor somethinglike this: www.amazon.com/dp/B07WGNLX67/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_DZ9Y0J28KEDWGVXZ9B5C
Just heat shrinked around the legs, taped it up and have been code free.
Never knew about that part on the turbos! Thanks for the informative videos
On my 02 several years ago during winter I was driving to work. I had redone my entire cooling system and installed a 180 degree thermastat. Half way to work on interstate my ebpv started closing. It was like almost getting on the brakes. My truck was running so cool it wouldn't mantain operating temp lol. It would actually cool off below operating temp and that valve would close lol. I miss that truck
I had a similar thing happen to me driving on the highway. Crazy how much it slows you down.
Cool channel! I have a 7.3 and doing alot of work on it!! Ill show you pics if you have an email?
Also what got my attention on your channel is the wheelchair! Awesome to see you not letting it set you back!
My dad was in a wheel chair, paralyzed from the waste down until the day he passed. So i know your everyday struggle. Im glad to see your high spirits.
I subbed.
Thanks for watching! Email is...
livingonwheels.channel @gmail.com
or you can send it to my instagram. If you search the channel name you should find it.
As for the chair, there are definitely extra struggles, as you know, but I have never been one to just role over and let life pass by. Got too high of goals for that haha.
Living On Wheels ill def be in touch!
Awesome! Looking forward to seeing the build
Just emailed you.
Very informative, thank you!
Very helpful, big thanks from Western Australia
Excellent video very Informative...
Great Content!
Thankyou!
Good videos!!!
Thank you
Hi Joe, Great video! Thank you for making and sharing it!
hmodernel thanks for watching it!
Difference for a E99 is you have a tp38 instead of the gtp38 (99.5-03 I believe) basically us E99 owners have a smaller turbo and the pedestal is not as tall as a later model. I’m switching over to the gtp38 if you plan on doing this you need to change your intake plenums, up pipes, turbo, and turbo pedestal. But I definitely would say it is worth it because you will have a lot better air flow sense the E99 plenum is only about 2 inches in diameter and the L99 is about 3 inches in diameter.
Correct
As an E99 owner, I will say the one nice thing about the TP38 is that it has a Wicked Wheel from the factory.
Stopping leaks is important but I'd like a good exhaust break for mountains.
Thank you!
Whew ...I thought I was losing it...🤪
Thx
.
You have a beautiful truck my friend
In CA they actually smog check the 7.3’s. If you are throwing codes or have stuff that is disconnected, you fail. And, from personal experience, they are really good at finding mods/changes. I’d like to remove the solenoid from mine but I’m pretty sure they’d fail it.
Yeah unfortunately this is probably a no go in California. Unless you get the delete plug to stop codes and tuck away the wires real good.
@@LivingOnWheels The delete plug is a good idea. I didn’t know about that. They would likely also find the disconnected exhaust valve. They are pretty good at spotting stuff. Last time I went they had parts assembly views of the engine making sure the right prices were there.
Switch to van style main engine harness
Great video
Very helpful and informative buddy thankyou.... 😉 Hi from England 👋👋
Joe mine is leaking I want to do the delete and rebuild turbo plus o rings top and bottom but going into that area my thought is do more while things are out of the way so I'm looking at some if the things you did and adding cost up and yes I'm finally out of my wheelchair and hobbling around just another toeless fatboy with rheumatoid arthritis trying to keep his 7.3 going thanks man for everything.
Hello can you do some videos on how to get in and out of these trucks if your in a wheelchair. I have one and recently became paralyzed.
I was actually planing on doing a video showing my whole truck setup here in the near future. Unfortunately, welcome to the club. Trust me, it gets easier.
@@LivingOnWheels ok thanks
Would the o-rings on the base of the pedestal cause your truck to smoke out the exhaust?? Not the top 2 o-rings but the base?? An there's no oil on the intake side of the turbo I've replaced the injectors ipr icp cps ebp, I come to a stop light a it sometimes it surges an starts smoking or a leaky fuel bowl would you know or have any idea??thanks in advance..
Great video thanks
i’m getting my seal on my turbo pedestal , can a leaking pedestal cause loss of power or sputter when coming to a stop ?
From my knowledge a leaky pedestal Oring should not cause symptoms like that.
Have a question …my selenoid valve on my 7.3 2001 turbo pedestal was electrical connector broke how can affect ,it’s necessary to replace what happen if I don’t replace
Just means your back pressure valve won’t work anymore. Not a big deal. It’s pretty common for people to disconnect them anyways because they’re prone to problems.
I changed my turbo pedestal out with a blank pedestal and now I'm getting po475 and 476 and when I give it the fuel my ses light comes on so what can I do to fix that . Thanks and love your videos.
The two codes are because that plug isn’t being used anymore so it’s tripping it as a malfunction. You can get a delete plug from Riffraff if you want. Those are only soft codes though. So I’d say your ses light is from something else. Could just be an overboost light.
If you delete the EBPV, what do you do with the electrical connection that actuates the valve? Does the engine throw any error codes if it doesn't detect the valve during a cold startup?
You can leave it hanging and the engine sometimes throws a soft code. Or you can get RiffRaff diesels delete plug or wire in a resistor.
Thanks for the info. You mentioned the actuator leaking. If you unplug it, will it continue to leak in the default open position? I'm trying to trace down my leak. Oil in valley and around pedestal. Not sure if its the seals or the actuator.
Yes it can still leak if it is unplugged. It’s just a seal inside that goes bad over time. The spring inside should default to the back pressure valve in the open position.
@@LivingOnWheelsGot it. Thanks man!
I wanna know if it would be alright to re use a turbo pedistol o ring that hasn’t Ben on the truck to long.?
It would probably fine if it’s still in good condition.
Question... went to get on the interstate on ramp. Started to accelerate..heard a pop and now it won't accelerate quickly..it takes a few minutes to get up.what is your opinion of problem?
Sounds like you either blew off or tore an intercooler boot.
Would a failed EBPV cause low boost and high EGTs?
Thanks for video got a question I'd like to do what you said you did but I'd like a exhaust break ,have any suggestions i may want to know about? And thanks man i appreciate your videos.
There are a number of aftermarket options for exhaust brakes that don't rely on oil like this valve does. I believe Banks and Pacbrake both makes kits for our trucks.
Thanks for the video. Question, if I have just a few drops of oil pooling on the intake end of my 1997 7.3 turbo, should I be concerned? and get away with leaving it in the truck for awhile? Thanks
The oil you see in your intake it just from your ccv. Completely normal and nothing to worry about
@@LivingOnWheels Thanks!
Thanks for doing this video. My pedestal has been leaking for a long time and I have been avoiding fixing it. I have an early 99 and would like to upgrade to the later style pedestal and bellowed up pipes at the same time. I would like to do the exhaust brake but a lot of people have told me that the butterfly valve its self is very restrictive and that I'm better off with out it. What do you think?.
rangemasterken well upgrading from the E99 to the newer stuff definitely isn’t a bad choice. The turbo might need to be changed at the same time. Not sure though. As far as converting the valve to an exhaust brake, there are a lot of people who have done is successfully and it seems to work well. Personally myself I would be more inclined to do a stand alone exhaust break down below on the truck. I’m not super familiar with exhaust breaks, I don’t know if they have safety measures built into them to help prevent over pressuring the cylinders or not. That would be my only real concern. Otherwise an exhaust brake in general can be a pretty handy thing to have. These things have towed for millions of miles with the factory valve so I don’t think it’s the end of the world if it stays in.
What would happen if the rod from the back is off would that cause oil leak
Having it disconnected from the valve wouldn’t directly cause a leak but it is common to leak oil around the rod either way.
@@LivingOnWheels what does the sensor do on the pedestal
Great video...
Hey man! I know you mentioned the AIH Delete, and i have a brand new Riffraff AIH plug. I bought it for my truck before I knew it was an "early" 99, and I never ended up sending it back. So just let me know, and if your willing to pay $5 or so for shipping ill give it to you.
Hey man, I really appreciate it. Shoot me an email and we can discuss details.
livingonwheels.channel@gmail.com
@@LivingOnWheels casey.sanford@aol.com
I installed the file pedestal. What to do with the front sensor?
You can either leave it unplugged and get a soft code or get a delete plug from riff raff
Where else can my truck be leaking from? I have a 2002 Ford7.3L f250 SD powerstroke 4x4.
A lot of places haha oil lines, rail plugs, end plugs, HPOP, valve covers etc…
@@LivingOnWheels ok, my truck wont start, but when I kick it over it spews out oil. Remember that I know nothing about diesels, so if my questions sound stupid. I do apologize. I can turn wrenches but I have no idea where to start.
So if I do a delete pedistool the truck will throw a code because the harness isn't plugged in right?
Yes, it will throw a soft code with it unplugged. Doesn't trip an engine light. you can wire in a resistor or get a dummy plug for it from riff raff.
I know this is an old video but wanted to ask, do you have any regrets about the pedestal ebv delete?
I don’t own the truck anymore but I never regretted it. Never had issues with warmups on cold days and I didn’t have to deal with the valve malfunctioning and leaking anymore. In my eyes it’s just simplifying a system that didn’t really need to be there originally.
@@LivingOnWheels Thank you for the reply. I knew you got rid of the truck but just wanted your honest opinion. Thank You and I'm still a subscriber of your channel. That farmhouse project is inspiration to us all. 👍👍
@@chuckparson6712 I appreciate you following along!
I just did a full turbo pedestal O ring replacement and i am still pissing out oil is it possible for the tab on the side that your explaining to be leaking ?
The actuator arm that comes out of the passenger side of the pedestal is very prone to leaking. If you are losing a lot of oil though it could be something in your high-pressure oil system. Check for oil in the front of the pedestal in your engine valley. If there is fresh oil up there then its HPOP related. If it's dry then its probably your actuator arm.
My EBPV also stays closed below 40 degrees cruising on the highway, or anywhere. Is there anyway to fix that without deleting it? Maybe I have a bad sensor or something that works the EBPV. I've already replaced the EPG and tube going to the exhaust manifold. If anyone has any insight on that it would be very helpful. I have a straight pipe on my truck and when it closes it's so loud, sounds like a jet engine, and I also have a slight loss of power. Thanks
Hmm. My guess would have been your back pressure sensor but you replaced that. Maybe your air intake sensor has gone bad and is showing the default -40 which is causing it to stay on longer. Other than that I’m not sure what it would be.
@@LivingOnWheels thanks for the reply, ill look into that!
Thanks for the informative tips. I have a 03 7.3 F350, i bought it and it was probably sitting for about 5 years or more. i've done a ton of work on it and was driving it for about 2 days when i had motor oil coming out my exhaust. any advice on that please.
It could be the turbo but it would be pretty obvious if the turbo was that bad. Did you happen to have the injectors out at some point? If so you’re probably seeing some of the oil that drained into the cylinders.
@@LivingOnWheels i just put in some refurbished injectors from a reliable source. a friend told me that probably the seals on the injectors or maybe the orings on the pedastal. please advise what do you mean about bad turbo being that obvious
@@saigahman Oil pedestol seals wont cuase oil to go through the exhaust. If you just recently replaced the injectores then you are probably seeing the oil that drained into your cylinders from pulling the injectors. Did you clear the cylinders through the glow plugs holes before putting it all back together?
@@LivingOnWheels Hi Joe, I am seeing like a quart of motor oil coming out the exhaust. I dont know about clearing the cylinders. After doing the work, i drove like 20 miles and then oil came out of the exhaust.
@@saigahman well if you didn’t know about clearing out the cylinders and didn’t do it then you’re lucky you didn’t hydro lock your engine or bend a rod. You will have also blown about a quart of fuel and oil into your exhaust system. Check you oil system to make sure it’s not continually going down and just drive it. It should clear up.
I was wondering what position holds the butterfly open?
Off the top of my head I believe the valve is open when the arm is in its resting position and is close when the arm pushes out.
Hey Joe ...what's you thoughts on installing a wicked wheel 2 on turbo.....I'm thinking about it..
Plus, when I install my new turbo delete pedestal....should I also install the turbo sleeve without the butterfly ? At your convenience....thx
I have only heard good things about the wicked wheel 2. It seems to work well for eliminating turbo surge and helps with boost a little. Not bad upgrade in my opinion unless you don't like louder turbo whistle. It will be louder than stock. Just make sure to get the wheel for the OBS trucks and not the super duty.
As for replacing the turbo outlet for a high flow one without the valve. If you have the turbo out and plan on installing the delete pedestal then I personally would also delete the valve. No point in having it in there restricting flow if it's not going to be used for anything.
@@LivingOnWheels Thx Joe......BUT.....you left me hanging on a bombshell without a explanation (very unlike you) lol
You said DO NOT get the wheel for the Super Duty (which like you, is what I have) you said get it for the OBS.....what the heck is that about ???????
Oops my bad haha. For some reason I thought you had an OBS. Lots of poeple to keep track of. Belay my first comment. Make sure to get the super duty one 😂 the intention was to make sure you get the one that fits your truck.
👍🏻
What did you do when it through the cold
frenkyfrank not exactly sure what you’re asking but I don’t have any issues with the truck warming up in the cold.
what I’m asking is you said it threw a code how did you fix that
Ohhhhh that makes more sense haha. The code it throws is a soft code so it doesnt trip a check engine light or anything. It’s just kinda there doing nothing. I let it be like that for a while. Eventually bought RiffRaffs code eliminator plug that is basically just a little resister cap that the plug plugs into.
Thanks for your help Your videos are very helpful
What pedestal did you go with?
If I remember correctly, i think i used the garret pedestal from riff raff
Do you get a check engine if you do this delete ?
If you unplug the back pressure valve you will get a soft code but it won’t trip a check engine light.
So when you say cold , I live in pittsburgh pa. It gets kinda cold in the winter do you think do this delete will hurt me in the long run or will it just take longer for the truck to warm up ? Thank you for your time joe
Randy Barr in all honesty I dont think you’d notice much of a difference on warm up time
What a good place to buy this delete , I saw some cheap ones on eBay and Amazon but was sure what the quality would be like
I am new to the 7.3 and I was happy to find your channel I am learning a lot
Благодарю за видео!Я из России владею форд ф-250,7.3,2001г.Наконец я понял,что это за штука(у меня уже отключена).Прошу помощи в преобретении жгута проводов моторного отсека,не могу найти даже номер детали для заказа.Спасибо.
Я бы порекомендовал посетить веб-сайт RiffRaff Diesel. Я думаю, что они продают жгуты двигателя. Не уверен, что они доставляются внутри страны, но, по крайней мере, это может помочь вам получить номер детали.
@@LivingOnWheels Благодарю за ответ.