I just noticed my tube is completely free because it rusted straight through. This whole time I thought I had a broken manifold bolt or two from all the audible ticking noise on the passenger side. Thanks for the great video, it will make this repair much easier
This was the problem with my 2001 7.3 with only 105,000 miles. Its all stock, with no chip. The tube and sensor were plugged with carbon. By trade I am an industrial diesel mechanic, with up to date emissions training. I have no idea what they were trying to do when they engineered this sensor. My last fill up running empty was 14.4 MPG. Just got fueled up after cleaning this, 168 mile run, got 16.8 MPG, And the best part is I did 70 miles with 2100 lbs load in the back of the truck. I also would say I picked up more power on the low end. Thanks for posting this.
This video was spot on for my 97. Thanks Trey for posting it. It was exactly what I needed to do. I had loss of power, it threw the P0476 code and would die while driving. This fixed it and I did it in about an hour thanks to this video.
Believe it or not I really appreciate this comment. My husband is going to do this today and he tends to break things off sometimes. By sharing your misfortune he now knows to take extra care. I hope you made it to work on time.
Trey, followed your video and just finished cleaning the EBPS and tubing and had a noticeable change when idling and acceleration from idle. I had followed this video for about a week and other posts from other forums. Thanks for the information as it was really helpful and hope to see increased MPG's Just ordered the fuel bowl kit to do maintenance on it next week, That video you posted on it looks like it will clear another problem I have,
GREAT VIDEO!!!!!!!!!! followed it step by step, and lets just say i had to soak my tube brake clean for 5 mins the blow the gunk out with compressed air then drilled on top of that ended up with 3 mpg better thanks for the great video
Your camera work is almost too good. It makes it look easier than it really is lol. Thanks again for all your hard work. I feel so much more confident working on my "new" truck with you along side me :)
By the way, I followed your EPBV advice in this video last July of 2014 and my fuel economy saw a massive increase. I cleaned out the tube and checked for holes (none) and the brake cleaner ran clear out of the tube. I installed a new EBPV sensor). I was getting as low as 10mpg city and about 13-14 combined highway city. I did the EBPV job and on a 180 mile door-to-door trip I used only 7.5 gallons for a highway MPG of 24 mpg! (I never went above 2000 rpm while accelerating and I kept the cruise control at 2000 rpm for approx 69mph). I'm getting crappy fuel economy again so I will do the EBPV again. While I did a good job the last time of cleaning the tube and installing a new sensor, I didnt do a thorough job of cleaning the the bracket nor did I do a good job where the tube threads onto the exhaust. This time I will clean both out until there is no carbon the qtips.
I just did this on my 2001 7.3, I only own it for 3 years and noticed it had no balls pulling my camper or just regular driving. The tube and sensor were plugged, I cleared it out and now much peppier..Thanks for the help Ty
Found a huge hole in my tube and sensor was extremely clogged. Truck ran a lot smoother, not a huge difference in power but the power was consistent through the whole power band. Thanks for the video
great tip thanks i have a 2000 excursion and sure enough it was dirty but i didnt have a speedo cable but i do have a map gas little torch that i heated parts of tube at a time and got it red hot it cooks carbon right at of it and did not hurt the tube.thanks again for the tip.
Great Video. Just did this on my 2003 E350. Had to soak the nut on the exhaust man. for a bit to get it loose. Had to thread the top nut first to get it back on. When I threaded the bottom nut first i couldn't get it to line up. I only had to remove the air box. Got alot of crap out of it. I'll know this week if I got a change in mileage.
Mine was totally blocked after 220K miles, I was able to clean out the tube without removing it by using a stout wire and carb cleaner along with some intermittent compressed air. Saved me a bunch of time and didn't have to crawl under truck.
great video seems like you put a lot of time into camera placement to make things easy to understand thanks for your time and your effort just bought my first diesel 2002 7.3 with 70k I wanna really put a lot of time in keeping it running efficiently but not going overboard with trying to milk extra horsepower and torque by using aftermarket goods. ive went down that road with other vehicles and always ended up with problems and I wanna see a million mile odometer one day!
he made the install look easy. on my 97 it seemed there were tons of things in the way. I didn't have much luck getting the tube off even with a crows foot. I ended up bending the bracket it was attached to which is a cover for HPOP gear access which would now leak. The good news is FORD sells replacement covers for $20. It was a ton easier to just remove the bracket then mess with separating the tube on the truck.. .strictlydiesel sells a kit to even make this easier. My system was plugged bad
Nice. My truck is a '00 auto trans ex. cab short box F250 with 253,000 mi. On summer fuel it gets 18.6 hwy IDK city. I will try this and get back with the results.
I like your videos Trey, very informative, even for an old phart. However, you should be using safety glasses. Debris, or brake cleaning fluid in the eyes could sure wreck a good life.
Pretty sure its a 1-1/8 socket to remove. Also, I'd suggest working from the bottom of the tube (manifold) up to the sensor. It makes it where you dont break the tube and bracket.
hey thankyou for this video my sensor and tube were plugged solid and the truck was throwing no codes, im in the middle of the job now but i just cant believe how bad that was
besides the obvious like air filter and fuel filters? I was told there is a fuel filter in the tank is it possible that could cause anything with loss in fuel millage ?
Would there be any reason to avoid using some sort of product like denatured alcohol to clean the sensor itself? And why not use some Brake Kleen on the exhaust side as well and not just the tube?
another quick question, my truck is 99 F350 7.3L and im about to turn 190k, what is the life expectancy of the fuel injectors , truck runs great now but im knocking on wood and watching my mirrors everday and hoping not to see black smoke and fuel pouring out every where
Did the same thing on my 97. But the tube was so plugged and had a crack in it. Had to cut it a part and drill out the carbon. Then silver solder it back together. Would of bought a new line but had to put it back to work the next day.
Thanks for the video... I'll give both my trucks a look see. One question...when you clean out the exhaust manifold port, doesn't anything broken loose from the cleaning end up in the turbo?
Make certain to use anti seize on at least the manifold connection. Today i cleaned mine on my new to me 2000 F350 and it was most likely the first time it had been clean. It was seized up onto the manifold and the threads came off with it.
Hey, I have a f250 7.3 1999 and only when it is real cold after I give the truck over 10 minutes to warm up it makes a loud air rush sound from under the hood near the air vents while I drive. This happens only when I'm driving and when I'm cruising. If I hit the petal it will stop for temporary until I cruise at 1 speed again. When this air rush sound happens I feel a significant decrease in power. When it gets warmer outside this will never happen. Also this does not happen when I'm idling. Could this fix it? If not any suggestions? I took it to a local shop and the said it was my vacuum pump but it is not. Thanks for any help possible!
michael that is the butterfly that blocks the exhaust to pre heat the engine, the actuators go bad and will close heading down the road,, it should open and stay open when the break is applied
Do you know where I can find a part # or a how-to uninstall and reinstall this? Any help on fixing this woudl be apprecaited as our local shops charge an arm and a leg just to look at my truck. Thanks again!
their is many was to tackle this, you can even delete it, just google 7.3 exhaust preheat valve it is located below the turbo built into the pedestal it might also be the sensor in the pedestal for the actuator, hard to get to
Interesting. I get 12.5 best with my 97 f350 flatbed. But the thing is im not going to bother with this since i have an edge tuner and i have my stock boost sensor and exhaust back pressure displayed and the back pressure stays within a couple from the boost unless the valve closes then it can jump to 30
EBPS may get cleaned on my 97 7.3. I don't expect 21 mpg because it has 4.10 gears and pulls weight or tows 95% of the time I drive it, but every bit helps. If you have a truck with mystery problems... was the truck seeing regular oil changes before you owned it...? that can affect a lot. -thanks for vid
Do you have a video on how to change the Air Filter on a 2002 E350 Diesel Box Van? I need to change mine, and would like to see a video on how to do it first. Thanks.
Trey, Very nice video! My hands are all beat to hell but its done. I have only driven it around the block so far but its massively smoother. My truck only had 128k on it and everything was totally plugged. I recommend just buying new parts from FORD. Ill report back on Mileage on my big trip coming up. Thank again Trey. Your the man!
After cleaning the hole in the manifold you should fire the engine up to blow out any loose stuff that's in the hole so it doesn't get shot into the tube.
wondering if you could help me i got a 99 CC f250 7.3 ts 6 tuner, stage 2 intake, 35x12.50mts, 4 inch exhaust, and polished wicked wheel... i just bought the truck and took off the EBPS and cleaned it out along with the tube and the hole for the exhaust.. it was caked... Im still throwing codes 4070 and 4078... the truck idles high during start up as its suppose to and goes back down when i hit the gas... but i only get 10mpg. should i replce the EBPS even though it works but is throwing code?
Kool video dude its nice to find other 7.3 vids out there to show you DIY. Ive been trying to do this for awhile because my MPGs have dropped. Is your EBPS tube new it look shiny because mine is rusted up and its going to be a pain to get off. Also did you see and improve meets in MPGs after you did the cleaning
Great vides. I have 2011 6.7, dealer told me ebp tube needs replacing because i’m getting exhaust fumes in the cab. The truck has 45k. Please show me where it is, must have missed it on your videos, sure i can do it. Thanks Frank
Great explanation mate you have a new subscriber 👌 I have a excursión 7.3 and I discovered a cople weeks ago sometimes when I driving normally on normal engine temperature looks like this sensor not working properly 😳 😕 because I feel a exhaust valve stuck 😀 I need press a little bit a gas pedal for working normally 🫢 it's the same like when in the morning I started the engine and until not get a normal temperature the exhaust whistling 😃 and when I driving after the engine is hot sometimes he do the same! but I press a gas pedal and the whistling is gone 🫢😀 probably I need making the same process like you showed 🤔 and probably I need replaced that sensor to?!🤔 thanks 😊 cheers from North of Norway 🇳🇴 😀 👍
Hi Trey, I have a late '99.5 model that seems to get good highway milage without towing. Back in 1999, I towed a trailer and with truck, gross weight was 40,000lbs. My milage then went from 18 mpg to 16 mpg -- all highway driving. But I just towed a much lighter trailer last week and I average 10 mpg on the highway. Do you think my EBPV is the only culprit for this piss-poor milage? I'm going to clean the EBPV tube and sensor this weekend and I want to be sure I have all the things to check
Im about to buy a obs 7.3, do they have the same ebps valve? I know its pre emissions, but its a California truck and was wondering if these were equipped with this emissions equipment. thanks
This should help remove the sensor start the truck and feel if your getting pressure it isn't clogged who would want to go through all that work not me. Also you can put a hose over the sensor opening run some diesel " do not use nothing flammable" down the tube and use a air gun to give it a cleaning. Does anyone have info on this sensor like at what pressure it open and closes.
Hey Trey.... don't know if you're still checking this or not but I have a question. Mine's an 03 F350 4x4.... I'm getting 13.5 at best per gallon. I've heard of people getting 20... Could this be the issue?
97---03 7.3. eBay item number for the sensor. Cost: $13.75 with free shipping171510542192 99---03 7.3. eBay item number for the tube: Cost: $14.99 with free shipping.272033190629 I have bought a number of parts on Ebay, and I have yet to have a problem with the stuff I order on there.
I took mine off, holy crap... literally i had a pin size hole at the manifold for the exhaust to come through, took forever to clean it out, not sure if im getting better milage... about 14.9 anything else i can do for better milage?
I could be over simplifying it, but why do you need to pull the tube loose, it seems to me that you could do the same thing just pulling the EBP sensor and shooting some brake clean down it and feed a shorter piece of your speedo cable into the tube and use your drill to spin it slowly till it is in. I think it would feed a lot easier if the tube was still mounted. I have not done this on my f450 yet but i would think it would work, and save you 20 minutes.
Bought an 89 7.3L in 1994. Got 17mpg. retired couple years ago, and thought it would be fun to rebuild that tired old thing... Bought another engine, and with a very good Diesel mechanic friend gold plated my way through a total rebuild... Switched the engines out and was eager to see great mileage again... Got 14... took it to the big boys and asked them to check the timing of injector pump... Now getting 13... This sucks big time... They suggest switching out injectors... Any thoughts?
replace your degas cap with a new ford one. the one on your truck is responsible for blown headgaskets, egr coolers, etc on the later 6.0. weak internal spring lets the pressure escape and that allows the coolant to boil
I have a '99 F350 SuperDuty, four-door, long wheelbase, 7.3L, 6 speed standard transmission. I usually drive it so that I shift at about 2000 RPMs, and when I hit the highway, I usually drive about 65mph at 1900-2000 RPMs. The best mileage I've gotten is 21.18. Tell me what you're doing to get 26mpg on the highway and 18 city. Any mods? I have a K&N air filter, but everything else is stock.
I think thats mostly for Custom Tuners, I have heard from my brother, Who works for Catipiller, that when you do the custom tunes that you need to adjust alot more shit to go accordingly thats what i just baught the chip that was pre-programmed and everything.
I just noticed my tube is completely free because it rusted straight through. This whole time I thought I had a broken manifold bolt or two from all the audible ticking noise on the passenger side. Thanks for the great video, it will make this repair much easier
This was the problem with my 2001 7.3 with only 105,000 miles. Its all stock, with no chip. The tube and sensor were plugged with carbon. By trade I am an industrial diesel mechanic, with up to date emissions training. I have no idea what they were trying to do when they engineered this sensor.
My last fill up running empty was 14.4 MPG. Just got fueled up after cleaning this, 168 mile run, got 16.8 MPG, And the best part is I did 70 miles with 2100 lbs load in the back of the truck. I also would say I picked up more power on the low end. Thanks for posting this.
This video was spot on for my 97. Thanks Trey for posting it. It was exactly what I needed to do. I had loss of power, it threw the P0476 code and would die while driving. This fixed it and I did it in about an hour thanks to this video.
I appreciate the time you took to give your audience a clear and knowledgeable video. Keep up the great work.
Thank you!
Believe it or not I really appreciate this comment. My husband is going to do this today and he tends to break things off sometimes. By sharing your misfortune he now knows to take extra care. I hope you made it to work on time.
Trey, followed your video and just finished cleaning the EBPS and tubing and had a noticeable change when idling and acceleration from idle. I had followed this video for about a week and other posts from other forums. Thanks for the information as it was really helpful and hope to see increased MPG's
Just ordered the fuel bowl kit to do maintenance on it next week, That video you posted on it looks like it will clear another problem I have,
GREAT VIDEO!!!!!!!!!! followed it step by step, and lets just say i had to soak my tube brake clean for 5 mins the blow the gunk out with compressed air then drilled on top of that ended up with 3 mpg better thanks for the great video
you work on stuff much better than i do. this would have be rated x for language if i was doing it.
🤣😂
Your camera work is almost too good. It makes it look easier than it really is lol. Thanks again for all your hard work. I feel so much more confident working on my "new" truck with you along side me :)
By the way, I followed your EPBV advice in this video last July of 2014 and my fuel economy saw a massive increase. I cleaned out the tube and checked for holes (none) and the brake cleaner ran clear out of the tube. I installed a new EBPV sensor). I was getting as low as 10mpg city and about 13-14 combined highway city. I did the EBPV job and on a 180 mile door-to-door trip I used only 7.5 gallons for a highway MPG of 24 mpg! (I never went above 2000 rpm while accelerating and I kept the cruise control at 2000 rpm for approx 69mph).
I'm getting crappy fuel economy again so I will do the EBPV again. While I did a good job the last time of cleaning the tube and installing a new sensor, I didnt do a thorough job of cleaning the the bracket nor did I do a good job where the tube threads onto the exhaust. This time I will clean both out until there is no carbon the qtips.
I just did this on my 2001 7.3, I only own it for 3 years and noticed it had no balls pulling my camper or just regular driving. The tube and sensor were plugged, I cleared it out and now much peppier..Thanks for the help Ty
Found a huge hole in my tube and sensor was extremely clogged. Truck ran a lot smoother, not a huge difference in power but the power was consistent through the whole power band. Thanks for the video
You do a good job on shooting the video's. That in it self has to be hard. THANKS FOR YOUR TIME!!!!
i saw this vid and checked my tube, turned out i needed a new one because of a hole and the sensor needed to be replaced so thnx great vid
great tip thanks i have a 2000 excursion and sure enough it was dirty but i didnt have a speedo cable but i do have a map gas little torch that i heated parts of tube at a time and got it red hot it cooks carbon right at of it and did not hurt the tube.thanks again for the tip.
Great Video helped me get my Mpg back from 16 to 20 again.
good video my friend from NJ bless you America 🇺🇸
Great Video. Just did this on my 2003 E350. Had to soak the nut on the exhaust man. for a bit to get it loose. Had to thread the top nut first to get it back on. When I threaded the bottom nut first i couldn't get it to line up. I only had to remove the air box. Got alot of crap out of it. I'll know this week if I got a change in mileage.
Thankyou for the video. I have a 1995 f-250 powerstroke. I love the truck but dont know much about it....thanks for helping me learn
Mine was totally blocked after 220K miles, I was able to clean out the tube without removing it by using a stout wire and carb cleaner along with some intermittent compressed air. Saved me a bunch of time and didn't have to crawl under truck.
great video seems like you put a lot of time into camera placement to make things easy to understand thanks for your time and your effort just bought my first diesel 2002 7.3 with 70k I wanna really put a lot of time in keeping it running efficiently but not going overboard with trying to milk extra horsepower and torque by using aftermarket goods. ive went down that road with other vehicles and always ended up with problems and I wanna see a million mile odometer one day!
he made the install look easy. on my 97 it seemed there were tons of things in the way. I didn't have much luck getting the tube off even with a crows foot. I ended up bending the bracket it was attached to which is a cover for HPOP gear access which would now leak. The good news is FORD sells replacement covers for $20. It was a ton easier to just remove the bracket then mess with separating the tube on the truck.. .strictlydiesel sells a kit to even make this easier. My system was plugged bad
Best video on the removal on youtube.
Thanks!
Nice. My truck is a '00 auto trans ex. cab short box F250 with 253,000 mi. On summer fuel it gets 18.6 hwy IDK city. I will try this and get back with the results.
excellent video, you are on the few who explain this job
I counted 167 um's
Thats what made me end the video after 45 seconds
151 um's
16 uh's
I just have to say hallelujah praise GOD!!! Turn to him and have all!!! He has what you need amen!!!
Fuck me!!!! Um um my head hurts
Man I thank you for the idea of how to try to get better MPG I was getting 5mpg hwy & 3mpg city going to try it tomorrow
I like your videos Trey, very informative, even for an old phart. However, you should be using safety glasses. Debris, or brake cleaning fluid in the eyes could sure wreck a good life.
Pretty sure its a 1-1/8 socket to remove. Also, I'd suggest working from the bottom of the tube (manifold) up to the sensor. It makes it where you dont break the tube and bracket.
You can access the bottom through the wheel well too.
hey thankyou for this video my sensor and tube were plugged solid and the truck was throwing no codes, im in the middle of the job now but i just cant believe how bad that was
besides the obvious like air filter and fuel filters? I was told there is a fuel filter in the tank is it possible that could cause anything with loss in fuel millage ?
Would there be any reason to avoid using some sort of product like denatured alcohol to clean the sensor itself? And why not use some Brake Kleen on the exhaust side as well and not just the tube?
The sensor uses a diaphragm that could be damaged by chemicals. No chemicals on the sensor. You could clean the exhaust side.
My ebp is reading 49-50psi at idle. Is that too high?
Watched this one a few months ago, then, did this task.
How often should this be done? How many months or miles?
Great video. Thanks Trey,
Rich
@TreySpooner Good job on the job and also how you show step by step, Keep up the good work
awesome video, awesome camera shots!!! you saved me money!
another quick question, my truck is 99 F350 7.3L and im about to turn 190k, what is the life expectancy of the fuel injectors , truck runs great now but im knocking on wood and watching my mirrors everday and hoping not to see black smoke and fuel pouring out every where
Did the same thing on my 97. But the tube was so plugged and had a crack in it. Had to cut it a part and drill out the carbon. Then silver solder it back together. Would of bought a new line but had to put it back to work the next day.
even when my truck is not running it shows 25 pounds of back pressure on my edge chip data stream. is this also on a 97 year 7.3 stroke
Thanks for the video... I'll give both my trucks a look see.
One question...when you clean out the exhaust manifold port, doesn't anything broken loose from the cleaning end up in the turbo?
nice camera job, Trey! Work inside engine compartment is difficult to film. Thanks!
Make certain to use anti seize on at least the manifold connection. Today i cleaned mine on my new to me 2000 F350 and it was most likely the first time it had been clean. It was seized up onto the manifold and the threads came off with it.
Sounds like its very common but beside a softDTC, what symptoms would bring this to your attention.
any other things that should be looked at when it comes to decreasing MPG?
Hey, I have a f250 7.3 1999 and only when it is real cold after I give the truck over 10 minutes to warm up it makes a loud air rush sound from under the hood near the air vents while I drive. This happens only when I'm driving and when I'm cruising. If I hit the petal it will stop for temporary until I cruise at 1 speed again. When this air rush sound happens I feel a significant decrease in power. When it gets warmer outside this will never happen. Also this does not happen when I'm idling.
Could this fix it? If not any suggestions? I took it to a local shop and the said it was my vacuum pump but it is not.
Thanks for any help possible!
My 2000 does the same thing. I think it is the gate on the turbo it helps with temperature I think.
michael that is the butterfly that blocks the exhaust to pre heat the engine, the actuators go bad and will close heading down the road,, it should open and stay open when the break is applied
Do you know where I can find a part # or a how-to uninstall and reinstall this? Any help on fixing this woudl be apprecaited as our local shops charge an arm and a leg just to look at my truck. Thanks again!
their is many was to tackle this, you can even delete it, just google 7.3 exhaust preheat valve
it is located below the turbo built into the pedestal it might also be the sensor in the pedestal for the actuator, hard to get to
the ebp sensor controls it
Interesting. I get 12.5 best with my 97 f350 flatbed. But the thing is im not going to bother with this since i have an edge tuner and i have my stock boost sensor and exhaust back pressure displayed and the back pressure stays within a couple from the boost unless the valve closes then it can jump to 30
great camera angles, thank you. Does anything need to be drained prior to starting this project?
Just curious what are you pushing for MPGs on 7.3?
What are the maintenance intervals on something like this? I have never done it...
EBPS may get cleaned on my 97 7.3. I don't expect 21 mpg because it has 4.10 gears and pulls weight or tows 95% of the time I drive it, but every bit helps. If you have a truck with mystery problems... was the truck seeing regular oil changes before you owned it...? that can affect a lot. -thanks for vid
Do you have a video on how to change the Air Filter on a 2002 E350 Diesel Box Van? I need to change mine, and would like to see a video on how to do it first. Thanks.
As Try pointed out in a PM I totally agree that you may not throw a code if this is all plugged.
Trey, Very nice video! My hands are all beat to hell but its done. I have only driven it around the block so far but its massively smoother. My truck only had 128k on it and everything was totally plugged. I recommend just buying new parts from FORD. Ill report back on Mileage on my big trip coming up. Thank again Trey. Your the man!
how do you go about testing the sensor to see if its bad?
After cleaning the hole in the manifold you should fire the engine up to blow out any loose stuff that's in the hole so it doesn't get shot into the tube.
or use a compressor
wondering if you could help me
i got a 99 CC f250 7.3 ts 6 tuner, stage 2 intake, 35x12.50mts, 4 inch exhaust, and polished wicked wheel... i just bought the truck and took off the EBPS and cleaned it out along with the tube and the hole for the exhaust.. it was caked... Im still throwing codes 4070 and 4078... the truck idles high during start up as its suppose to and goes back down when i hit the gas... but i only get 10mpg. should i replce the EBPS even though it works but is throwing code?
Kool video dude its nice to find other 7.3 vids out there to show you DIY.
Ive been trying to do this for awhile because my MPGs have dropped. Is your EBPS tube new it look shiny because mine is rusted up and its going to be a pain to get off. Also did you see and improve meets in MPGs after you did the cleaning
Great vides. I have 2011 6.7, dealer told me ebp tube needs replacing because i’m getting exhaust fumes in the cab. The truck has 45k.
Please show me where it is, must have missed it on your videos, sure i can do it.
Thanks Frank
Great explanation mate you have a new subscriber 👌 I have a excursión 7.3 and I discovered a cople weeks ago sometimes when I driving normally on normal engine temperature looks like this sensor not working properly 😳 😕 because I feel a exhaust valve stuck 😀 I need press a little bit a gas pedal for working normally 🫢 it's the same like when in the morning I started the engine and until not get a normal temperature the exhaust whistling 😃 and when I driving after the engine is hot sometimes he do the same! but I press a gas pedal and the whistling is gone 🫢😀 probably I need making the same process like you showed 🤔 and probably I need replaced that sensor to?!🤔 thanks 😊 cheers from North of Norway 🇳🇴 😀 👍
It that tube goes to exhaust you can pull sensor and squirt some carb cleaner in the port till it flows if not hit it with compressed air.
Yep! But some times it's so packed in there it's best to clean it out manually
I get 21-22 mpg on my stock 2000 7.3 powerstroke. Not chipped or moded.
Bull
You need to hand figure.
Love your vids!
Good voice and clear explanations.
Just did this. Thanks alot! Big help!
Hi Trey, I have a late '99.5 model that seems to get good highway milage without towing. Back in 1999, I towed a trailer and with truck, gross weight was 40,000lbs. My milage then went from 18 mpg to 16 mpg -- all highway driving. But I just towed a much lighter trailer last week and I average 10 mpg on the highway. Do you think my EBPV is the only culprit for this piss-poor milage? I'm going to clean the EBPV tube and sensor this weekend and I want to be sure I have all the things to check
Why not run the speedometer cable through while it is still in the truck?
Sun Lite I was wondering the same thing.
Helpful video and great filming work!
I'm having trouble finding the IAT sensor on a 2001 F-250 Super Duty with the 7.3L Turbo diesel, any suggestions?
What did you spray on everything?
Im about to buy a obs 7.3, do they have the same ebps valve? I know its pre emissions, but its a California truck and was wondering if these were equipped with this emissions equipment. thanks
This should help remove the sensor start the truck and feel if your getting pressure it isn't clogged who would want to go through all that work not me. Also you can put a hose over the sensor opening run some diesel " do not use nothing flammable" down the tube and use a air gun to give it a cleaning. Does anyone have info on this sensor like at what pressure it open and closes.
Hey Trey.... don't know if you're still checking this or not but I have a question.
Mine's an 03 F350 4x4.... I'm getting 13.5 at best per gallon. I've heard of people getting 20... Could this be the issue?
scwalker78 YES sirr
YOU be really happy if you do this
Happen to know the part number for that sensor? Having trouble finding it on ford. 01 F250 7.3
97---03 7.3.
eBay item number for the sensor. Cost: $13.75 with free shipping171510542192
99---03 7.3.
eBay item number for the tube: Cost: $14.99 with free shipping.272033190629
I have bought a number of parts on Ebay, and I have yet to have a problem with the stuff I order on there.
I lost 2nd gear in my trans and the dealer said I have back pressure problem code..Any ideas?
Trey, Can I spray the Carbon Cleaner/Brake Cleaner in my EBPS? Or just the tube.
***** Silicone spray lube
Trey Spooner nnn
why not run piano wire down the tube while its still installed to clear it out and then chase it with some sea foam or brake clean?
I'm not sure that piano wire would remove a lot of the spot, but it's worth a shot. If you do it, be sure to let me know how it works.
why wouldn't you put never seize on the tube's fitting's?
Love condescending comments by assholes
Great point Jim Smith. I put it on nearly everything I take apart. Especially Heat and rust prone fitting and wheel studs.
I started jabbing at the sensor before looking at a video how will i know if i damaged it?
What's the best overall programmer u could get for the 1st and 2nd gen 7.3s?
Just bought a 97 Im going to try this out
Excellently done, very nice, thank you.
Starting fluid, disc brake cleaner?
I would use brake cleaner
I have a f-250 sd 7.3 and with 180K and only gets like 8-10 mpg..This should help out?
Nice beard! your hair looks wonderful!
Good information Trey!
will this work on the older 7.3 powerstroke engines?
I took mine off, holy crap... literally i had a pin size hole at the manifold for the exhaust to come through, took forever to clean it out, not sure if im getting better milage... about 14.9 anything else i can do for better milage?
I could be over simplifying it, but why do you need to pull the tube loose, it seems to me that you could do the same thing just pulling the EBP sensor and shooting some brake clean down it and feed a shorter piece of your speedo cable into the tube and use your drill to spin it slowly till it is in. I think it would feed a lot easier if the tube was still mounted. I have not done this on my f450 yet but i would think it would work, and save you 20 minutes.
I'm was thinking the saaaaame thing. Yet I don't think I want the soot and crap going through my turbo.
Bought an 89 7.3L in 1994. Got 17mpg. retired couple years ago, and thought it would be fun to rebuild that tired old thing... Bought another engine, and with a very good Diesel mechanic friend gold plated my way through a total rebuild... Switched the engines out and was eager to see great mileage again... Got 14... took it to the big boys and asked them to check the timing of injector pump... Now getting 13... This sucks big time... They suggest switching out injectors... Any thoughts?
Ahh I see, well it is possible man, what year is your beast? also do you have anywhere you can go to get Red Diesel, for like farm equipment?
replace your degas cap with a new ford one. the one on your truck is responsible for blown headgaskets, egr coolers, etc on the later 6.0. weak internal spring lets the pressure escape and that allows the coolant to boil
how many miles is a f-250 7.3 powerstroke good for?
my tube and sensor were plugged but I was not throwing any codes...
yea I've replaced the seals before its easy I have heard that its real common on the 7.3 PSD
Has anyone been able to get to tube out on a 7.3 that has the dual alternator set up? I could not get the tube out!
Hmm. I've never actually worked on the dual alternator trucks.
My van has dual Alternators... I'll have to take a look and see.
Looks like me working on stuff, tools dropping and stuff 🤣 my patience and language are very different though!
What does PHP stand for?
Great video! Well detailed
Thank you I'm glad you liked it
Castrol super clean will dissolve the soot. Pull the sensor squirt, rinse done.
great video! I think I will be doing this soon.
I have a '99 F350 SuperDuty, four-door, long wheelbase, 7.3L, 6 speed standard transmission. I usually drive it so that I shift at about 2000 RPMs, and when I hit the highway, I usually drive about 65mph at 1900-2000 RPMs. The best mileage I've gotten is 21.18. Tell me what you're doing to get 26mpg on the highway and 18 city. Any mods? I have a K&N air filter, but everything else is stock.
There ain't nothing you can do to get 26 mpg if you are getting 21 mpg that's really good they are feeding a line of bull 26 mpg ain't gonna happen
straight pipe exhaust and egr delete does improve mpg
I think thats mostly for Custom Tuners, I have heard from my brother, Who works for Catipiller, that when you do the custom tunes that you need to adjust alot more shit to go accordingly thats what i just baught the chip that was pre-programmed and everything.