Just my two pennies. I know most diy guys don’t have a two post lift, but... it’s much cleaner and efficient to lift the cab for engine removal. A proficient technician can have a cab lifted in about 2 hours. Nice rig boss! Keep up the good work.
Josh great content in all of your videos thanks for taking the time to share your experiences with us i know it takes time effort and energy to make these videos but it's much appreciated 🙂 As always God bless you and keep safe in these difficult times 🙋♂️🇬🇧
You don’t need to cut or modify anything on the front cross member. Undo the two body mounts that hold the front fenders on, and use a 2x4 and the factory vehicle jack to spread the front clip apart. It only needs to move about 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch to get the cross member out. And then it springs back into place when you take the jack out. Zero cost and zero modifications needed.
Any videos on this method sir? I don't want to cut mine and need to do a timing cover gasket. I've been trying to find a good example of this. Thank you
Me and my brother just used the tractor to wiggle it out no dents no scratches but we later found out theres a massive hole on the side of the block and we put it down on the ground and she just starts bleeding Coolant The motor was already blown but we had another engine from the 2500 theat we where already planning to put in the 3500 chassis Edit the transmission was seized to the engine making in to two times harder
Had no idea that the crossmember had to come out to pull the engine. Was under the impression you could get the engine out without doing that. Nice trick.
You can, I did, but it’s not fun. Have to jack the cab up about 4”, then angle the engine at a 45* angle, take the balancer pully and ac compressor off and it’ll slide over it, but when I’m going to put it back in I’m going to cut the cross member how josh did, way easier.
I just had mine of my 05, didn't touch the front cross member. Had the head off so removal wasn't too bad and when we put it back in we had the head on but left the pan off till we were a few inches from the mounts, put the pan on and dropped it on the mounts.
Thanks for sharing video bro! But now what’s your thoughts on installing motor back into engine bay. There’s not very many videos out there explaining how people are installing them. Do you recommend installing short block first then putting head on or just install long block all at once???
Don't do it his way. Go watch the video on Greg A and Silent Mike's channel. Open both front doors, porta power the fenders apart, and that crossmember comes right out.
Was that a harbor freight 2 ton cherry picker? 😮 didn’t think those things would hold up to that kind of weight. Especially extended all the way out on that 1/4 ton point. What engine stand did you use after you pulled it?
Don't cut. I did this with a standard high/low jack on its side and some wood blocks in 5 minutes. Spread the mounts, the metal is flexible enough, easy.
Great videos, something not related to this particular video, but wondering what your thoughts are on the RPM ACT. I’m sure you guys are aware. Wondering how it could affect your shop.
You don’t have to cut the truck at all, all you have to do is remove the bolts. Hammer it to the drivers side. Cut just the crossmeber like you did, pull it forward it will flex and go just fine once you pulled it two inches then tap it out, the piece you cut out slide back in and put the two bolts in and never touch them again, this way you cannot tell it was messed with all the bolts go back, and if you wanna go back to factory you can get a new crossmember and spread it to install, takes me way less time and I don’t cut the truck it self. sawzall takes 5 seconds.
@@horsetorquesdiesel makes sense the trucks I work on aren’t race trucks, generally there work trucks and I try and make everything look factory when I’m done, I can see tryout way saving you a few minutes, every second counts at the track.
I am into Chevy gas engines but like your video I don’t care much for diesel because older gas engines allow me to run propane or e85 fuel as well but with diesel your stuck all you got is a heavy dirty stinky noisy expensive complicated oil leaking engine zero alternative fuel choices if diesel prices go up be it Cummings or anything else.
WHY go to all the trouble to 'modify" that front end stiffener (It is NOT a crossmember) by destroying it. If you are going to cut it, cut it in the middle and fish both side out from their attachment points. When reassembling, fab apiece of steel and place in in the center and work the stiffener back into place and weld the center back up. As it is, you have two fracture points , both neeind to be welded back together. Darrow...for the Prosecution
Dude your living the dream! Keep the badass builds coming!
I do my best, thanks for the support man much appreciated
Use a porta power on that cross member brother, easy peasy
Wish this video was up 3 weeks ago when I pulled my 06 5.9
Just my two pennies. I know most diy guys don’t have a two post lift, but... it’s much cleaner and efficient to lift the cab for engine removal. A proficient technician can have a cab lifted in about 2 hours. Nice rig boss! Keep up the good work.
This will make pulling the cab for a frame swap without a lift a ton easier
Josh great content in all of your videos thanks for taking the time to share your experiences with us i know it takes time effort and energy to make these videos but it's much appreciated 🙂
As always God bless you and keep safe in these difficult times 🙋♂️🇬🇧
Appreciate the support! And thanks for watching!
Keeping a fleet of high powered trucks running is a full time job.
No kidding
The 07 gonna turn in to a dedicated race truck
No but the 2005 might 😂
Another great video guys 😬🤘🏻
Love the video josh!
Great job great video guys, awesome.!
You don’t need to cut or modify anything on the front cross member. Undo the two body mounts that hold the front fenders on, and use a 2x4 and the factory vehicle jack to spread the front clip apart. It only needs to move about 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch to get the cross member out. And then it springs back into place when you take the jack out. Zero cost and zero modifications needed.
Sounds like a lot of work at the track
That’s just what I did and It worked great! faster than all that cutting!!
Any videos on this method sir? I don't want to cut mine and need to do a timing cover gasket. I've been trying to find a good example of this. Thank you
@@thewibbdid you found a video about it?? I really need to know 😭
Me and my brother just used the tractor to wiggle it out no dents no scratches but we later found out theres a massive hole on the side of the block and we put it down on the ground and she just starts bleeding Coolant
The motor was already blown but we had another engine from the 2500 theat we where already planning to put in the 3500 chassis
Edit the transmission was seized to the engine making in to two times harder
Great video guy's.
Had no idea that the crossmember had to come out to pull the engine. Was under the impression you could get the engine out without doing that. Nice trick.
You can, I did, but it’s not fun. Have to jack the cab up about 4”, then angle the engine at a 45* angle, take the balancer pully and ac compressor off and it’ll slide over it, but when I’m going to put it back in I’m going to cut the cross member how josh did, way easier.
I just had mine of my 05, didn't touch the front cross member. Had the head off so removal wasn't too bad and when we put it back in we had the head on but left the pan off till we were a few inches from the mounts, put the pan on and dropped it on the mounts.
Hell yeah Josh you the man
Thanks for sharing video bro! But now what’s your thoughts on installing motor back into engine bay. There’s not very many videos out there explaining how people are installing them. Do you recommend installing short block first then putting head on or just install long block all at once???
My buddy and I joke about how we have to be careful in our PC world when we talk about pulling our trany! Not something you talk about in public!! Lol
Do you guys just use a standard engine stand? No concerns with it being to much for it?
I gotta do this tomorrow as I gotta wait like 2 weeks for my D&J. I tried a inframe overhaul over winter but it needs more freshening.
Don't do it his way. Go watch the video on Greg A and Silent Mike's channel. Open both front doors, porta power the fenders apart, and that crossmember comes right out.
@@ClarksAutoAndPerformance my cross member was already missing. I bought it missing I'd like to buy 1 to put back in tho. I'm going to look on Ebay
Do you have any used turbos 67 or bigger to sell? I am out of air and egts are 1600+ in about 5 Seconds
Was that a harbor freight 2 ton cherry picker? 😮 didn’t think those things would hold up to that kind of weight. Especially extended all the way out on that 1/4 ton point. What engine stand did you use after you pulled it?
Harbor freight stand 1 ton version
Dale yeah!
Hell Yeah Brother
On that heat exchanger did you relocate it?
Don't cut. I did this with a standard high/low jack on its side and some wood blocks in 5 minutes. Spread the mounts, the metal is flexible enough, easy.
Great videos, something not related to this particular video, but wondering what your thoughts are on the RPM ACT. I’m sure you guys are aware. Wondering how it could affect your shop.
It’s not going to do anything for the average user. It effects my 2005 and Todd’s godfather that’s it
I've never seen the 1/2 ton mark of a cherry picker exceed its weight limit before
👍
7:29 why cant you just slide the FCM to the psngr side from there. Why cut up the drvr side ???
Do it for Dale!
You don’t have to cut the truck at all, all you have to do is remove the bolts. Hammer it to the drivers side. Cut just the crossmeber like you did, pull it forward it will flex and go just fine once you pulled it two inches then tap it out, the piece you cut out slide back in and put the two bolts in and never touch them again, this way you cannot tell it was messed with all the bolts go back, and if you wanna go back to factory you can get a new crossmember and spread it to install, takes me way less time and I don’t cut the truck it self. sawzall takes 5 seconds.
That would be cool. To me once it’s done I can do it without a single hammer or pry bar makes it super quick for competition repairs.
@@horsetorquesdiesel makes sense the trucks I work on aren’t race trucks, generally there work trucks and I try and make everything look factory when I’m done, I can see tryout way saving you a few minutes, every second counts at the track.
Josh how would you get a common rail to work in a ram charger
A standalone harness, engine and ecm
@@horsetorquesdiesel I think that's going to be my next toy. After I get all the goodies from p.d.d in my 06
Get after it!
I am into Chevy gas engines but like your video I don’t care much for diesel because older gas engines allow me to run propane or e85 fuel as well but with diesel your stuck all you got is a heavy dirty stinky noisy expensive complicated oil leaking engine zero alternative fuel choices if diesel prices go up be it Cummings or anything else.
Maybe you should look into all the different things a diesel will run on. Way more efficient than gas. More torque.
WHY go to all the trouble to 'modify" that front end stiffener (It is NOT a crossmember) by destroying it. If you are going to cut it, cut it in the middle and fish both side out from their attachment points. When reassembling, fab apiece of steel and place in in the center and work the stiffener back into place and weld the center back up. As it is, you have two fracture points , both neeind to be welded back together.
Darrow...for the Prosecution
It takes 15 minutes to do it. Allows it to go back in. The only thing it does is hold the Intercooler. You are overthinking it in my opinion