Fixed! Intake Manifold Runner Stuck Closed (P2006/P2015)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 8 лют 2025
- Last week, I had a check engine light come on after accelerating pretty heavily to merge into traffic. The code was P200600 and P201500. Both are related to an Intake Manifold Runner problem, specifically that it was "stuck closed". This video is a quick session showing how it works, my troublshooting method, and then how I solved this issue by using a part from another intake manifold I had in the garage.
When the manifold is "stuck closed" it is because there is a spring in the intake manifold runner control (IMRC) that is forcing it closed. This is the normal position below 3,800 RPM. At 3,800 RPM, the solenoid under the intake manifold will open and allow vacuum to open the manifold runner. Then below 3,800 RPM the vacuum is closed back off and the spring closes the runner. So if the runner is "stuck closed" it's very highly likely that there is not sufficient vacuum to open it when it is commanded by the ECU. This also throws off the position sensor because it isn't seeing the proper range for an open runner (because it doesn't actually open).
Anyway... I hope you find this video helpful! Thanks for watching.
Great video you put together! I don't comment often, but you deserve applause for your time, professionalism, and your willingness to be selfless in our increasingly selfish world! So, thank you!
Just had my intake manifold cleaned and now having that same code P2006. Awesome video for understanding what’s going on. Thank u.
So glad I found your video; very understandable and very much appreciated. I have a 2023 GTI 40th bought used a week ago. Yesterday, the engine light went on. Today my regular mechanic ran codes and 200600 came up. He said exactly what you said, oaky to drive the car but keep it tame.
Another awesomely detailed video. Appreciate all you hard work on these videos
Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video, it was a massive help, i was swapping the spring over from the stock one which is larger than the euro intake manifold one and completely didn't even check the diaphragm.
Hello CPO ~
Great video you put together! I don't comment often, but you deserve applause for your time, professionalism, and your willingness to be selfless in our increasingly selfish world! So, thank you!
I wanted to comment on one point that may help someone else in the future, who might be struggling with a similar issue. Before I do, I want to be clear that I am in no way trying to be critical or portray that I'm anything special. This is only meant to be constructive criticism. If I may explain...
--There is no need to monitor the (runner position) sensor as you manually move the runner. The reason is, the fault code(s) indicate a "stuck runner" and you confirmed it when you applied vacuum to the runner actuator and it would not move or even pull a vacuum. So, the sensor can't possibly be a contributing factor. Seems like I'm nit-picking but I believe that its always best to keep it as simple as possible. In other words, You nailed it when you decided to use a vacuum pump to move the runner!!! That was GREAT diagnostic skills!! By manually moving the runner with the pick while watching the data, just shows that the sensor and circuit is functional. But you already know that because 1) the P codes and 2) the inability to move the runner with a vacuum source confirms the fault code. The intake runner actuator is simply a sealed canister with a diaphram inside that's attached to an arm, that arm is attached to the intake runner shaft. "When vacuum is applied, one side of the canister that has the hose port is under a vacuum, and the other half has no vacuum. As a result, the diaphragm is pulled towards the vacuum hose end. This indicates that there is a vacuum leak inside the canister. Therefore, there is no need to check the sensor. I apologize for the length of my message, but I always try to explain the operation and description of a component as it is my passion. There are many UA-cam "mechanics" who just replace parts without understanding their functionality. If you can comprehend the purpose and functionality of a component, you can fix anything!
God bless you all
Sending you a word of thanks for the detailed explanation - it’s always helpful to know the “why” when working on this stuff!
Very informative vid.... Just purchased a car with that fault code. Turns out car was lacking more power than I thought 🤣 thanks 👍🤘
Thank you very much,this just happened on my 2007 Mazda 5.
Having this exact problem. Same exact codes and everything. Perfect timing thanks a lot. I also happened to have an extra manifold lying around, so I'm just going to swap over that piece.
Keep me posted!!!!
did that solve it?
@@gabekendall3751 I ended up having a small tear in one of my vacuum lines leading to the same failure.
@@brandanholt3709 i just figured it out on my car i accidentally didn’t have one of the vacuum lines hooked up🤣 Are you hybrid?
@@gabekendall3751 no stock is20 for now stage 2
Just got both these codes after doing oil change and rear brake pads. I have my stock manifold still so ill try this before flap delete.
Thank you ! Very informational video
This is happening on my 2023 MK8 R DSG. The dealer did their troubleshooting and cleared the code and test drove it. Then, a few days later, the check engine light came back. This time, they determined the manifold needs to be replaced. Its on order. Car has 4,500 miles on the odometer.
This happens to my T-Roc R 2023 3 months old with 3000k kilometers. The last three days every morning, i have check engine light with p2015 and some times p2006.
Also, before this light came up, the power was not stable. Some times, it was good, and sometimes it was slow.
This is currently happening to my 24 Golf R DSG as well. I am 2300 miles in. Dealer will also be replacing the manifold.
Just got the code on my mk8 gti 😂
'24 MK8 R 6spd...car is at the dealer now second time, they want to change the runner solenoid before replacing the whole intake...i feel like my car will be back there 😭
thank you, it's so useful ❤️❤️
had this happen early on with my 2018. Had it replaced under warranty. Would have been very pricey if not under warranty. But this video is great.
Round vacuum on side is an actuator incase anyone needs to know
Awesome video!! It contains a very valuable info with careful explanation, unfortunately in my case I’ve the P2004 code (IMRC bank 1 stuck open), based on your video it means there’s vacuum but something is avoid it change to closed again… any tips or information that you could share to trying to fix this?? Thanks for reading regards from Mexico 🇲🇽
tengo el mismo problema audi s3 2015, lo solucionaste==0??
Awesome video I’m having the same issue it’s just for me it is saying bank 1 stuck open I replace the manifold and tested it before I installed it I also replace the sensor but it is still giving me the issue any idea of what I can check into next
Good stuff...appears that you opted to utilize an aftermarket manifold? and the diaphragm tore due to higher boost levels? Is that correct?
Either way, it's going to cost everyone else a whole new manifold 👍
Thanks great video 👍
So weird, mine held vacuum but was kind of sticky.. I think some debris just built up.. either way manually moving the flaps freed it up. Thank you
So, the old one lasted longer than the new one. It seems quality control has gone down hill.
Interesting video. Lots of great info thanks. Would be nice to see a link to your video showing the removal of the mani. It's hard to find it in your list of videos and my phone isn't making it easy to search. You might get more views if that's a goal...
What symptoms did you have while driving; I'm getting EPC warnings on heavy acceleration & it seems to be cutting my throttle plate & dumping boost making my car fairly slow. Is this what you experienced before the P2006 code was initially stored? I'm going to inspect the diaphragm on the vehicle as the runner isn't physically stuck. I have to assume a manifold replacement will fix these other issues. My theory is when the car sees the manifold not opening the runners it goes into a temporary limp mode preventing the car from building boost by using the diverter valve and literally not opening the throttle plates. The difference between the pedal position and the throttle plates throws the EPC warning if you bury the pedal when it's cutting power. Let me know when you can if any of this happened to you. Thanks
Did you figure out what needed to be fixed after
@ I had a myriad of boost issues and it wasn’t even the manifold runners. What I did was check all my boost pipes, what I found was the pipe that comes off the turbo on the passage side down to the intercooler was popping off partially under boost. Basically when I was driving the c clip was not holding the pipe tight enough and it would slip off over 5psi, the insidious part about this is it would slip back into place once boost decreased, so when i went back to inspect it; it looked like nothing happened. The only way I found it was because the last time it stayed partially detached and didn’t spring back into place. What I did was safety wire the c clip so it can’t expand and let the pipe slip off the coupler. I replaced the diverter valve and everything worked fine, long story short for me i had a charge pipe slipping off the coupler and the resulting lack of expected boost threw the P2006 code because the car was just freaking out. Hope this helps lmk if I can help and best of luck, btw if you have the gen3 you can get the diverter valve off without moving turbo, its just a bitch and you have to make custom tools. CTS has a manual that explains how on their website
Anyway you could tell me the OBD app you are using to look at that IMRC data? Im having the same issue right now, and I confirmed I have vacuum, so I would Like to check if my sensor is the problem at this point.
Did u ever figure this out. I have vaccum as well, and no other noticeable bad vaccum lines. Hoping it’s the sensor
I have exactly the same problem at the moment, but on live data the acknowledgement is staying at 100 Car seems to be running okay but throwing an engine management light back on any ideas?
hello my friend i replaced all the intake manifold runner and still the same code did i have to do more steps with obd eleven to fix ?
Was/is there any type of adhesive holding the diaphragm in place?
subscribed! what else you got in that brain man keep it up
my daughters Kia 2011 sorento 4 cylinder just threw a P2006...any estimates on the cost to have it done or should I try this myself ... I can turn a wrench but this might be too much I'm afraid
I have a project car, can one bypass the runners?, on mine the canister was damaged by previous owner
I’m pretty sure they make runner delete kits so I assume it’s possible.
Hello,
Do I have the same problems as explained in the video with the following errors? If so, do I need to replace the complete amission manifold? (Audi S1 2014)
P200400 Intake manifold runner contraol bank 1 - Stuck Open
P201400 Intake manifold runner position sensoir/switch circuit
Thank you
Sure sounds like it
Will This cause the vehicle for it to not turn on ?
Can I drive temporarily with this code on the highway?
which scanner do you use?
When your intake manifold heat control valve was stuck closed (due to inoperative vacuum valve), did your intake manifold overheat? if so, why?
did you watch the video? why would you assume its heat.. its a tear in the rubber... bro do you use your brain?
@@johnboy2436 rubber doesn't tear on it's own. Something needs to cause the tear or rubber failure such as heat, but that is not why I asked the question, stoner.
@@meblake7359Could you tell me why you assume i smoke weed? What on earth would make you call me a stoner. Then explain how you think heat would get through a layer of thick plastic and then cause a "tear" with no indication of anything being melted. I see you used the word failure to somehow throw shade on the fact what your say is just not possible. You understand how this system works right?
I am assuming this will apply to same fault code i got P2004/3B5E . The sympton i have is hesitation at above the rpm range you mention.
Sounds like yours is stuck open… I’d def start with these troubleshooting steps. That sprint is what closes the runner. So it could be that is broken or something is stuck somewhere.
I took out the censor and it was covered in gunk. It seemed to have it fixed for a couple days but symptoms came back.
Get rid of the manifold and order the Galano engineering manifold will fit perfect all oem style no leaks !
One day maybe!!!!
It’s been impressive so far from feedback,great midrange and top end flow !
how to fix this issue in b8 2.0 tdi cars
How long do you should you wait to fix that issue?
is it okay if i keep drivng with this problem unitl i get it fixed?
You should be fine as long as you take it easy
Hi what output test did you use for the sensor
Thanks 🙏🏻
Good Stuff 🤙🤙🤙
Cheap aliexpress manifold+high boost=failure. Every time. Yes, you're going to say you bought it from EQT but where do you think they got it?
There is no question in my mind it's a Chinese manifold... you aren't telling me anything I don't know :-)
What's your problem?
What vehicle and year this was done on??
2019 VW Golf R
can i get link to ur vacuum tool
amzn.to/3IhTBvC
What vehicle is this? Not in description.
Mk7 golf r