A key thing to note is that one of those valves is typically always ON and the other is always OFF. Now since the valves are the same construction, that means that one of them is on most of the time, which is constantly pulling current through that coil and that's why it burns up. They could have designed a new valve so that the spring holds it always closed, so that it is the opposite of the other valve by design, but instead, they just used the same valve for both operations--- so one only kicks on when it needs to, and the other is ALWAYS on and then simply kicks off a bit when it needs to.. SO instead of designing a proper valve function, they just expect you to replace it when it breaks, so they can save a couple of dollars and use a part that already exists.
This video saved me a bunch of time! P2004,2008 on an '04 Focus, swapped the solenoid without testing the new one and thought I had to start chasing down a vacuum leak or actuator problem, tested the solenoid by hooking it up to current like you showed and I realized it was just busted! Swapped it out with another one, cleared the code, and ran it a while. Seems fine!
@@oliverreyes5241 just the tiny ones from Harbor Freight, regular little alligator to little alligator? the ones in electrical for like 2.50 or 3 dollars or so. '36 inch test lead and alligator clips set' didn't need anything else. i connected the wires to the positive and negative on the solenoid first bc it's fiddly and trying to complete the circuit in there felt dumb because i have shaky hands. made sure nothing was touching in there that shouldn't be, put the rubber cover down over the clips. then put the negative to ground bc the clip could hold onto a little grounded bolt, then completed the circuit by tapping the positive wire's other end on the positive terminal to test for actuation
The best knowledge i have picked up thus far is by watching your channel "Kudos" to you and every success in the future! I wanted to thank you for this marvelous content because it has saved me 💰thousands and not only that shows how little the dealers know which can be horrendous to then tell you they cannot fix your car!
Thank you for posting this! Did the diagnosis, one of the valves was at 100 Ohm, after some 12V exercise it came down to 60 Ohm. Replacement is in order! :)
Well done Gerard. Those Ford Focus's are common with those faults codes the solenoid packs failing. Good idea with heating and cooling them as well. It shows up any intermittent faults. They have a big heat sink under the solenoid pack that stores all the heat necessary to make an electrical component fail! 😉
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage This is such a common problem, I wonder if spacing the solenoid pack up a little would allow more air to circulate and keep the heat away from the solenoids.
Just a minor thing but it looks like at 4:08 that you swapped the voltage polarity when you did the power test. I guess the polarity is not important on these solenoids while testing, right?
thanks this rellay explained . and intake manifold solenoid probelm in vehicle so what kind of symstom are show in vehicle as how to find out in this error?
How to activate this valve? What commands does it receive from the brain? For example, does it engage at full throttle? Does the throttle valve hurt when it is fully open?
Hi Gerard Please could you tell what the other black part is on the solenoid?. It’s like a screw and it can be turned clockwise and counterclockwise. What does that part do exactly ?. Thanks
Hi i got a p2008 Faultcode and i checked the resistance on the solenoid both came out to around 30 Ohm is there still a possibility that the solonoids are faulty?
I have a nissan got this p2008 code on my car and it's driving me crazy idk what to do Got the car scanned again and it said it was my MAF sensor i need help please
Great video. One question: if I drive with swirl flaps removed, what to do with this solenoids? Remove the hoses that go from the intake manifold to them and plug them, or just leave as it is?
@@sharkmansharkman3929 there wont be any check engine lights in this case, even with the p2008 code active. I drove with the solenoids disconnected and intake plugged for a year and got this code. It caused car to hesitate at 1500-2000rpm, almost drove me crazy. Saw the code, but I thought it was something else since it was disconnected… anyway it’s best to have this system operating as intended
Thanks yeah my swirl flaps are rattling around in there, I'm sure a piece broke off and blew up my spark plug. Now I'm stuck with a p2004 stuck open. Gunna remove my swirl flaps but that middle bolt on the ford focus intake is freaking impossible to get to
I know i was hoping I could just buy new flaps and install them but I guess thats not how it works, gotta buy a whole new intake huh, ill check that website out
the connector of one of them is one pin give a ground about 0.03v or less, and the other on is battery voltage. And the other solenoid is give a ground about 3.49v and the other pin is give battery, so is that normal and the pcm controling the value of the ground or is something is wrong?!
@@Nightbaron_Shadowman The solenoid That gave 12v & 3.4 was working correctly the other solenoid was 12 & .2 was dead & I replaced it although It still gave same readings when replaced It did not give CEL but did give fault code
I record and edit problems/jobs that come my way in the workshop, if it ever does I will but where I live currently in Australia has very limited amounts of Peugeot's on the road.
Yur not to be tellin dem ozzies too much info bout engines ye never know how'll they react specially how de valves work. If ye run into bother, turn yur jacket inside out and think of DevAlera.
A key thing to note is that one of those valves is typically always ON and the other is always OFF. Now since the valves are the same construction, that means that one of them is on most of the time, which is constantly pulling current through that coil and that's why it burns up. They could have designed a new valve so that the spring holds it always closed, so that it is the opposite of the other valve by design, but instead, they just used the same valve for both operations--- so one only kicks on when it needs to, and the other is ALWAYS on and then simply kicks off a bit when it needs to.. SO instead of designing a proper valve function, they just expect you to replace it when it breaks, so they can save a couple of dollars and use a part that already exists.
This video saved me a bunch of time! P2004,2008 on an '04 Focus, swapped the solenoid without testing the new one and thought I had to start chasing down a vacuum leak or actuator problem, tested the solenoid by hooking it up to current like you showed and I realized it was just busted! Swapped it out with another one, cleared the code, and ran it a while. Seems fine!
hey what were the alligator clamps to mini crocodile clamps you bought I cant seem to find any
@@oliverreyes5241 just the tiny ones from Harbor Freight, regular little alligator to little alligator? the ones in electrical for like 2.50 or 3 dollars or so. '36 inch test lead and alligator clips set'
didn't need anything else. i connected the wires to the positive and negative on the solenoid first bc it's fiddly and trying to complete the circuit in there felt dumb because i have shaky hands. made sure nothing was touching in there that shouldn't be, put the rubber cover down over the clips. then put the negative to ground bc the clip could hold onto a little grounded bolt, then completed the circuit by tapping the positive wire's other end on the positive terminal to test for actuation
@@oliverreyes5241 CEN-TECH 36 in. 2 Colors Test Lead and Alligator Clips Set
The best knowledge i have picked up thus far is by watching your channel "Kudos" to you and every success in the future! I wanted to thank you for this marvelous content because it has saved me 💰thousands and not only that shows how little the dealers know which can be horrendous to then tell you they cannot fix your car!
Thank you for posting this!
Did the diagnosis, one of the valves was at 100 Ohm, after some 12V exercise it came down to 60 Ohm. Replacement is in order! :)
Thanks Gerard
For me, forscan showed DTC: P0661. Thanks to you, I found one that doesn't work. It's the brown one. Thanks again. 👍
Well done Gerard.
Those Ford Focus's are common with those faults codes the solenoid packs failing.
Good idea with heating and cooling them as well. It shows up any intermittent faults.
They have a big heat sink under the solenoid pack that stores all the heat necessary to make an electrical component fail! 😉
Thanks Max, great point on the heat sink.
As always I appreciate the input mate.
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage This is such a common problem, I wonder if spacing the solenoid pack up a little would allow more air to circulate and keep the heat away from the solenoids.
thanks for this video I have been chasing this problem for a while on a Mazda CX7.
This video has literally saved me thank you so much
Thanks for making the video I learned something new today!
Just a minor thing but it looks like at 4:08 that you swapped the voltage polarity when you did the power test. I guess the polarity is not important on these solenoids while testing, right?
thanks this rellay explained . and intake manifold solenoid probelm in vehicle so what kind of symstom are show in vehicle as how to find out in this error?
Very well done video, very informative!
How to activate this valve? What commands does it receive from the brain? For example, does it engage at full throttle? Does the throttle valve hurt when it is fully open?
Nice video sir I have one cuestión when the two imrc is on ok. what other problem would it be?
Hi Gerard
Please could you tell what the other black part is on the solenoid?.
It’s like a screw and it can be turned clockwise and counterclockwise. What does that part do exactly ?.
Thanks
Thanks for sharing this useful video
Great job Gerard, Thankyou:):)
Thanks a million Pat 🙏🙏👌
Are u supposed to keep that removable black plastic cap on the unit?
Hi i got a p2008 Faultcode and i checked the resistance on the solenoid both came out to around 30 Ohm is there still a possibility that the solonoids are faulty?
Hi Gerard, just wanted to check if you tested the continuty of positve terminal and the negativr terminal will they be shorted?
Looking for an affordable bidirectional scan toot. 68 retired on limited income. Do all my own maintenance and repairs. Have everything else.
Thanks gerard👍
If they both click could there still be an issue? I've checked the purge value and the solenoid and they both work but I still have the code
apakah kau pernah mengalami DTC P0622 pada mazda biante?
I have a nissan got this p2008 code on my car and it's driving me crazy idk what to do
Got the car scanned again and it said it was my MAF sensor i need help please
Followed your steps and my mazda has the same issue
Result of intake manifold tuning valve control circuit low Bank 1a on a 2004 Honda crv
How do you take the vacuum hoses off the solonoid?
Would you mind share which probe extension ur using?
Where would that be on a MX-5 Miata?
My tabs broke off and hoses on infiniti jx35. I need know how to remove
Great video. One question: if I drive with swirl flaps removed, what to do with this solenoids? Remove the hoses that go from the intake manifold to them and plug them, or just leave as it is?
What did you end up doing? Any check engine lights?
@@sharkmansharkman3929 there wont be any check engine lights in this case, even with the p2008 code active. I drove with the solenoids disconnected and intake plugged for a year and got this code. It caused car to hesitate at 1500-2000rpm, almost drove me crazy. Saw the code, but I thought it was something else since it was disconnected… anyway it’s best to have this system operating as intended
Thanks yeah my swirl flaps are rattling around in there, I'm sure a piece broke off and blew up my spark plug. Now I'm stuck with a p2004 stuck open. Gunna remove my swirl flaps but that middle bolt on the ford focus intake is freaking impossible to get to
I know i was hoping I could just buy new flaps and install them but I guess thats not how it works, gotta buy a whole new intake huh, ill check that website out
Great info like always Gerard!
Cheers mate :)
Very informative
What if the solenoid works at 12v but the connector sending the power is 1.57v where else do I check for that
Thanks alots very helpful
nice explanation
🙏🙏
Very useful man. Thank u so much
Thanks for the kind words 🙏🙏
Thanks
👌
Thanks very much
🏅thank bro very helpful info .
How do you know what reading numbers it was sopose to be at?
From what i have read, they should measure around 30 ohms. Max 70 ohms
the connector of one of them is one pin give a ground about 0.03v or less, and the other on is battery voltage.
And the other solenoid is give a ground about 3.49v and the other pin is give battery, so is that normal and the pcm controling the value of the ground or is something is wrong?!
mine was the same
@@calthorp Did it give its fault code?
I think the multimeter will be useful in that time especially the ohmmeter.
@@Nightbaron_Shadowman The solenoid That gave 12v & 3.4 was working correctly the other solenoid was 12 & .2 was dead & I replaced it although It still gave same readings when replaced It did not give CEL but did give fault code
@@calthorp Replaced by new one?
Did you measure the value of resistance of the new solenoid?
@@Nightbaron_Shadowman No I did not sorry. I tested the old one by applying 12 v across terminals & it did not work so replaced it
Can this cause the car to shut off while running
Can it be cleaned?
I have a Nissan note 2014 the problem is with the tumble control valve someone can help me please I changed the valve but the problem is always there
P0662 Mazda 6
Good video
Mint job 👏 cheers
Thank you Max
Looks si ilar to the one on the 2006 subaru sti
By chance can you do the peugeot 208 DRL's and show us how to change them?
I record and edit problems/jobs that come my way in the workshop, if it ever does I will but where I live currently in Australia has very limited amounts of Peugeot's on the road.
It's a good video, but you don't check if the vaccum valve open and close with the solenoid test!
Yur not to be tellin dem ozzies too much info bout engines ye never know how'll they react specially how de valves work. If ye run into bother, turn yur jacket inside out and think of DevAlera.
🤣🤣😂😂
Aussies know how to fix cars idiot. Unlike your writing of sentences.
you did not explain what valves are opening or closing next time explain what the vaccums do and where they lead to.
they control the swirl-flap inside the intake maniford, and also the PCV system(i think)
0
Thanks