I just bought a two-gallon jug of SAE 80W-90 today. I also looked at some additives but I couldn't decide. Thanks for the tip on the friction mod product.
If your 80W90 has an API GL5 rating It already has an extreme pressure additive.. If you have a limited slip differential differential or some other rear axle with multiple disc clutches or one clutch it will require an additive suitable for for the type differential you have
I put Amsoil in my 2014 F-150 with the 8.8 rear end. So far so good. Would use Redline or Royal Purple with confidence as well. Even the Supertech oil from Walmart would get the job done especially if you’re just daily driving but it’s nice to have that comfort of using a premium product.
Here's the short version for free. Use a brand name synthetic. Be ware of old pinion seals. use the correct weight. Use a "modifer additive" for clutches if u have them in the center section. This allows u to not worry about looking for the "LS" listing on the bottle(limmited slip).
I just changed my front and rear differentials fluids. I have a 2010 GMC Sierra with the LC9 and the Eaton G80 rear differential. I was amazed at how clean my read differential was. It has 146k miles on it and the fluid was dark, but the right consistency and the G80 was spotless. No signs of wear at all. Even the magnet had barely anything on it. I replaced the front and rear Diffs with Amsoil severe gear oil 75w90 full synthetic. I could swear they are making a tad bit of noise. They were dead silent before I changed the gear oil. Now I am concerned I should switch it out with the recommended GM lubricants although GM discontinued the original and the two revision lubes for the front differential. 😅
Did you say if you're using a "sure grip" gear oil you need the additive? Could you clarify that. Also, just watched a test of gear oils and Lucas failed, didn't meet industry standards, neither did Mobil 1. Is that a 1970 Cuda? Sweet ride for sure.
Well Bro. great video....just for my input im bout to do a rear end gear oil job on my 1987 ford dually E-350 motorhome this will be my first time doing it... but its guys like you who make this job much easier so with that bein said Thanx....anyway im going to use Mystic jt7/ 85w-140 in the rear end .... is that a good choice?...Oh p.s. its got a 460 big block with a 3 speed auto trans in it and never take it over 65mph when im out on the hi-way....tell me what you think?
most rear axles you need to unbolt and remove the center section to get the old oil out. I drilled and tapped my mopar 8.75 rear axle and installed a small drain plug to make it easier to service
Non Synthetic is the stinky version. Old Synthetic won't smell as much. Its the additive you're smelling to diminish GL5 from GL4. Nothing about how old it is. If it's 90w GL4 it won't smell like GL5 90w . Cannot swap them around. They're separate purposes. GL4 for 3 speed transmission etc 4 whatever and GL5 for the axle only whether its a sedan coupe pickup or full floating pusher axle on a transport tractor. The clear window cups to oil the outside axle bearings
3:55 "When you're running a .... " Running a what? I could not catch the words.
I just bought a two-gallon jug of SAE 80W-90 today. I also looked at some additives but I couldn't decide. Thanks for the tip on the friction mod product.
If your 80W90 has an API GL5 rating It already has an extreme pressure additive.. If you have a limited slip differential differential or some other rear axle with multiple disc clutches or one clutch it will require an additive suitable for for the type differential you have
I put Amsoil in my 2014 F-150 with the 8.8 rear end. So far so good. Would use Redline or Royal Purple with confidence as well. Even the Supertech oil from Walmart would get the job done especially if you’re just daily driving but it’s nice to have that comfort of using a premium product.
Good choice with amsoil
Royal purple is overrated (and overpriced)
Here's the short version for free. Use a brand name synthetic. Be ware of old pinion seals. use the correct weight. Use a "modifer additive" for clutches if u have them in the center section. This allows u to not worry about looking for the "LS" listing on the bottle(limmited slip).
cliff notes are always good! 👍
I just changed my front and rear differentials fluids. I have a 2010 GMC Sierra with the LC9 and the Eaton G80 rear differential. I was amazed at how clean my read differential was. It has 146k miles on it and the fluid was dark, but the right consistency and the G80 was spotless. No signs of wear at all. Even the magnet had barely anything on it. I replaced the front and rear Diffs with Amsoil severe gear oil 75w90 full synthetic. I could swear they are making a tad bit of noise. They were dead silent before I changed the gear oil. Now I am concerned I should switch it out with the recommended GM lubricants although GM discontinued the original and the two revision lubes for the front differential. 😅
I use Lucas, but then I wanna try some different so I switched to Amsoil 100% synthetic gear oil ran it for one year now and so far so good✌️
thank you, going to look for 80W-90 for my i3
Did you say if you're using a "sure grip" gear oil you need the additive? Could you clarify that. Also, just watched a test of gear oils and Lucas failed, didn't meet industry standards, neither did Mobil 1. Is that a 1970 Cuda? Sweet ride for sure.
Yes definitely need an additive. I’m using a Ford one Dr. Diff sells. Wow surprised to hear Lucas didn’t test well.
Lucas 75w- 140 for me...
Does this car require GL-4 spec?
I like Valvoline Conventional 80w90 no lsd additives.
Well Bro. great video....just for my input im bout to do a rear end gear oil job on my 1987 ford dually E-350 motorhome this will be my first time doing it... but its guys like you who make this job much easier so with that bein said Thanx....anyway im going to use Mystic jt7/ 85w-140 in the rear end .... is that a good choice?...Oh p.s. its got a 460 big block with a 3 speed auto trans in it and never take it over 65mph when im out on the hi-way....tell me what you think?
Thanks for watching and commenting! I have never used Mystik I would say the most important thing is to use the recommended weight
I thought you did the "upper control arms" already. Twice!
Yeah, they are done. I remade the cardboard checklist and didn't cross it off yet for this video lol
Mine is 2004 model nissan b15 and I don't know which is best
Check your manual , best place to start
Liqui moly 75w140 for LSD in a Celica GT
Great video, but stay away from amsoil. Too much variance with the oil quality and viscosity.
What is a square hex head?
one of lifes unsolved mysteries lol
How do you drain the old gear oil?
most rear axles you need to unbolt and remove the center section to get the old oil out. I drilled and tapped my mopar 8.75 rear axle and installed a small drain plug to make it easier to service
Non Synthetic is the stinky version. Old Synthetic won't smell as much.
Its the additive you're smelling to diminish GL5 from GL4.
Nothing about how old it is.
If it's 90w GL4 it won't smell like GL5 90w .
Cannot swap them around.
They're separate purposes.
GL4 for 3 speed transmission etc 4 whatever and GL5 for the axle only whether its a sedan coupe pickup or full floating pusher axle on a transport tractor. The clear window cups to oil the outside axle bearings
What is a square hex head?