I appreciate you mentioning rolling the product on, and that it uses more of the oil. I was deciding between Osmo 3043 and 3054. I think these are products made for North America. I've read that 3043 is meant to to be an easier brushing and rolling version of 3054. So I might get the 3054 because there's a better price and not worry about losing the option of rolling.
To be honest, it still goes a long way and it's great value for money I think, all the osmo stuff is. I've not used those 2 products I don't think. For an easy life, use a roller 😁
Great video ❤ what would type of plywood would you recommend for a kitchen worktop? What would you recommend finishing it in to make it water resistant? Thanks
Apologies I missed this, if you wanted it to.look visually appealing then I'd use birch ply. I have birch ply worktops my self but the grain is on edge. I cut up lots of strips, and glued them together, sanded and lacquered with a 2 part lacquer (morrells). It's incredibly tough and durable and I like the stripey look. If you just used the face of the board, be sure to give many coats of lacquer, minimum 3 or 4, and use a good product.
I have some old painted plywood I inherited when I purchased a mid century home. Can I reuse and rejuvenate this plywood? I had hoped to use it for some inset shelves and other projects, but I am wondering if it is worth salvaging.
If you using nesting software you might get a patched version on your door. So looks like its better to oil the entire sheet. Look for imperfections and manually decide where to cut.
Thank you, and yes it's something I've done before but it can be costly. I always ask the customer what their opinion is on patches and if they are not keen, then generally I'd have a bit on for materials waste 👍
Thank you :-) I would personally use an Osmo Oil, either Raw 3044 which will keep its original colour as best as possible, or the clear 3062. This one will give it a slightly more darker appearance I would have thought (they call it the wet look) If you go for the second option, the 3062 is the 'Matt' sheen level They do semi matt 3065, satin 3032, and gloss 3011, in the same clear oil. Ill leave a link to the one I use in the video description for you. Cheers Ryan
Hi - I’m converting a camper van, and this is really useful, thank you. I’m using poplar ply, but struggling to get a finish as decent as yours. Dont know if you can help with two questions: 1. Do you do anything to stabilise the fibres on the edge? 2. 9mins in you show the edge of 2 sheets - the edge of the one at the front is light and the one at the rear is much warmer/ darker. How did you achieve that? Many thanks for any help
Hi thank you! I dint really do much to the d Edges apart from sand the edges up really well. Best way is to stack up your components and sand them as a pack. There's a few of my vids showing how to stack and sand mdf as a pack. It's the same process as this but no filling. Other than that that's all we do 👍
Ok, many thanks, I’ll take a look through your other videos. Can you recall what the difference was between those two sheets 9 minutes in (the reason why the edge of the front one was a lot lighter)?
Thanks for this video - great to see how you do it and your results. Was looking at a can of this and it says 2 coats recommended (seems to be for floors) and 8 hour dry time. Sounds like you do 1 coat and get good results...is that right? How long do you let dry before handling and moving on to installing, etc.? Thanks!
Thanks, this is really helpful! I'm looking at using Osmo Wood Protector for a Birch plywood worktop on a kitchen island however reviews say clear option makes it too dark. Could I use the raw cabinet finish then top coat for a food surface do you know?
Another great video! Thank you. I want to make a plywood door just like yours. My concern is that the plywood will warp before I get to oil it. Do you have some climate control in you shop to prevent warping? Some storage tricks?
This was really helpful! I've been building a media cabinet for our living room with birch plywood and wanted the least color change possible. Osmo raw that you used on your workbench looks like it will be perfect for that application! You said you're sanding up to 240, would you recommend doing that for a solid wood top as well?
Hi, have watched a lot of you videos Ryan over past few weeks, couple of questions…. Do you oak veneer your own MDF ? and if so perhaps making a video on this and you mentioned giving a demo on the Trend 35 cutter set you showed as I’m just getting round to setting up my Trend craft pro router station. Your videos on the table where great. Keep up the good work on here 👍👍👍
Such a useful, practical video, full of handy tips for a beginner like me, thanks! I am in the process of replacing some kitchen doors and I was planning to use the same Osmo product so this is really handy.. Osmo seem to recommend 2 or more coats but you mentioned one coat is enough, based on your experience, is that correct? Also, out of curiosity, what grade of plywood are you using these days given it's more difficult to get hold of birch ply? Thanks a lot!
Hi, Yes it's definitely sanded first. You will be fine with the veneered material. Just lightly go over it with p240 on an orbital sander. Be careful not to tilt the sander at the edge of the board.
What did you say that blue rag is? I'm in the States and don't know what you're talking about (in the bathrooms?). Is that something I can get in the States or a UK only thing?
In some toilets (probably a bit old fashioned now) they have a roll or material you dry your hands on. Once the roll has been used it gets taken away to be washed. I cant really explain 🤣
I’ve been doing this to my new kitchen cabinets but how do I seal the edges? It’s been soaking in and making the edges a lot darker and it’s seeping onto the front. I want to have them fully protected from warping.
Well I bought this stock about 2 years ago, 44 sheets in total of 18mm. I picked them up for £68 per sheet. Now you would be lucky to pick one up for less than £140 per sheet. Try mp morans if you are in the UK 👍
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop Thanks. I have 1 sheet of 18mm and nearly 2 sheets of 12mm but don't know what to do with them. It's going to have to be something special. 😳
Thanks for sharing your tried and tested technique; will now use it on my 8x4 workbench top!
Fantastic!
You are welcome, Itll be a nice finish for your workbench :-)
Thanks Ryan
I appreciate you mentioning rolling the product on, and that it uses more of the oil. I was deciding between Osmo 3043 and 3054. I think these are products made for North America. I've read that 3043 is meant to to be an easier brushing and rolling version of 3054. So I might get the 3054 because there's a better price and not worry about losing the option of rolling.
To be honest, it still goes a long way and it's great value for money I think, all the osmo stuff is.
I've not used those 2 products I don't think. For an easy life, use a roller 😁
Great video ❤ what would type of plywood would you recommend for a kitchen worktop? What would you recommend finishing it in to make it water resistant? Thanks
Did you get an answer to this?
Apologies I missed this, if you wanted it to.look visually appealing then I'd use birch ply.
I have birch ply worktops my self but the grain is on edge.
I cut up lots of strips, and glued them together, sanded and lacquered with a 2 part lacquer (morrells).
It's incredibly tough and durable and I like the stripey look.
If you just used the face of the board, be sure to give many coats of lacquer, minimum 3 or 4, and use a good product.
I just answered it 👍
Loved this video! Loved your attention to detail. And good man Seán! You'd know he's oiled a lot of timber in his time.
Ahh thank you!!!
Yep Sean has definitely oiled a fair few pieces in his 6 years here at my shop ☺️
Cheers Ryan 👍👍👍
I have some old painted plywood I inherited when I purchased a mid century home. Can I reuse and rejuvenate this plywood? I had hoped to use it for some inset shelves and other projects, but I am wondering if it is worth salvaging.
Apologies I have only just seen it.
Yes why not...its worth a goo surely?
Thanks Ryan
Lots of valuable info in that video! Really good!
Apologies for the late reply!
But thank you very much!
Ryan
Really appreciate this video - thank you for being so generous with sharing your knowledge!
Thank you!
It's sanded by orbital and the arrises by hand 👍
Thank you and you're welcome!!
Ryan
If you using nesting software you might get a patched version on your door. So looks like its better to oil the entire sheet. Look for imperfections and manually decide where to cut.
Thank you, and yes it's something I've done before but it can be costly.
I always ask the customer what their opinion is on patches and if they are not keen, then generally I'd have a bit on for materials waste 👍
Great vid thanks... Would this osmo oil be suitable for kitchen cabinets and drawer fronts ? Or would something tougher be required? Cheers
Apologies for the delay!
Osmo is meant for this type of finishing so I'd recommend osmo 👍👍
Thankyou so much for this. I’m wanting to finish my ply walks relatively clear not go to yellow…. Do you have any suggestions?? Many many thanks!!
Thank you :-)
I would personally use an Osmo Oil, either Raw 3044 which will keep its original colour as best as possible, or the clear 3062. This one will give it a slightly more darker appearance I would have thought (they call it the wet look)
If you go for the second option, the 3062 is the 'Matt' sheen level
They do semi matt 3065, satin 3032, and gloss 3011, in the same clear oil.
Ill leave a link to the one I use in the video description for you.
Cheers Ryan
Hi - I’m converting a camper van, and this is really useful, thank you. I’m using poplar ply, but struggling to get a finish as decent as yours. Dont know if you can help with two questions: 1. Do you do anything to stabilise the fibres on the edge? 2. 9mins in you show the edge of 2 sheets - the edge of the one at the front is light and the one at the rear is much warmer/ darker. How did you achieve that? Many thanks for any help
Hi thank you!
I dint really do much to the d
Edges apart from sand the edges up really well.
Best way is to stack up your components and sand them as a pack. There's a few of my vids showing how to stack and sand mdf as a pack. It's the same process as this but no filling.
Other than that that's all we do 👍
Ok, many thanks, I’ll take a look through your other videos. Can you recall what the difference was between those two sheets 9 minutes in (the reason why the edge of the front one was a lot lighter)?
Thanks for this video - great to see how you do it and your results. Was looking at a can of this and it says 2 coats recommended (seems to be for floors) and 8 hour dry time. Sounds like you do 1 coat and get good results...is that right? How long do you let dry before handling and moving on to installing, etc.? Thanks!
Thank you, and glad it helped :-)
Yep i only do one and never had problems .
Its dries pretty fast, maybe a few hours
Cheers Ryan
Awesome video, thank you! could you please tell us if you sanded the plywood by hand or with an orbital?
Thanks, this is really helpful! I'm looking at using Osmo Wood Protector for a Birch plywood worktop on a kitchen island however reviews say clear option makes it too dark. Could I use the raw cabinet finish then top coat for a food surface do you know?
Hi sorry for the late reply.
To be honest I'm not really sure. Give them a quick call I would say! Sorry I couldn't help.
Another great video! Thank you.
I want to make a plywood door just like yours. My concern is that the plywood will warp before I get to oil it. Do you have some climate control in you shop to prevent warping? Some storage tricks?
Hi just keep the doors laying flat or stacked upright and clamped together. I have no climate control
Would that specific type of osmo be good for a desk top? I'm curious how smooth it feels once finished
Well I would use a standard Polyx oil, clear.
It is very smooth if you sand up the desk to 240 first :-)
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop do you think 220 would work?
Yes that will be fine. I think they actually recommend 180 but I've had no problems with 240.
Your 220 will be absolutely fine 😊👍
This was really helpful! I've been building a media cabinet for our living room with birch plywood and wanted the least color change possible. Osmo raw that you used on your workbench looks like it will be perfect for that application!
You said you're sanding up to 240, would you recommend doing that for a solid wood top as well?
Hi yes I always use 240 as the last grade
Hi, have watched a lot of you videos Ryan over past few weeks, couple of questions…. Do you oak veneer your own MDF ? and if so perhaps making a video on this and you mentioned giving a demo on the Trend 35 cutter set you showed as I’m just getting round to setting up my Trend craft pro router station. Your videos on the table where great. Keep up the good work on here 👍👍👍
Hi I buy pre veneered mdf.
I will aim to get those cutter videos out asap 👍
Such a useful, practical video, full of handy tips for a beginner like me, thanks! I am in the process of replacing some kitchen doors and I was planning to use the same Osmo product so this is really handy.. Osmo seem to recommend 2 or more coats but you mentioned one coat is enough, based on your experience, is that correct? Also, out of curiosity, what grade of plywood are you using these days given it's more difficult to get hold of birch ply? Thanks a lot!
As far as I know 1 coat is enough. I generally use b/bb
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop thanks!
Can I use Oslo oil on the cut edges but then spray the main panels or will the two react with one another? If not Osmo what would you recommend?
Hello, yes maybe they may react or the paint wont stick as it should if there is oil and paint on the same panel?
Did you sand the plywood first? I have thinly veneered walnut plywood I’m finishing with a hard wax oil but am afraid to sand it.
Hi, Yes it's definitely sanded first.
You will be fine with the veneered material.
Just lightly go over it with p240 on an orbital sander.
Be careful not to tilt the sander at the edge of the board.
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop Thanks so much. Appreciate the insight and advice. I will give it a go.
@handymadness no probs at all 👍
Have a look at Rubio white 5% on birch.
isnt rubio is very dear?
@@cubitme when you factor in the coverage rate and the fact there’s only one coat needed, plus no maintenance coats ever needed…. NO!!
@@jcrbuilds thanks! I am about to finalise which finishing to use. this helps heaps. should I avoid staining the birch with gel?
@@cubitme rubio do some “pre colours” and “pre ageing” that can be used. I would use them if using Rubio as top finish
Looks great. Do you oil both faces and the edges?
Thank you!! Yes we do if they are seen. If not seen then no :-)
Cheers Ryan
Thank you from Los Angeles
Hello!!!!!
Thanks for the message from so far away:-)
Cheers Ryan
What did you say that blue rag is? I'm in the States and don't know what you're talking about (in the bathrooms?). Is that something I can get in the States or a UK only thing?
In some toilets (probably a bit old fashioned now) they have a roll or material you dry your hands on. Once the roll has been used it gets taken away to be washed. I cant really explain 🤣
I’ve been doing this to my new kitchen cabinets but how do I seal the edges? It’s been soaking in and making the edges a lot darker and it’s seeping onto the front. I want to have them fully protected from warping.
Use a brush or a cloth to seal the edges.
Thin coat of wood filler. Sand. Prime.
Really helpful - thanks folks!
Thank you!
Great job!
Can this be used on shuttering ply (internal walls)?
I guess so, I cant see why not. Osmo is amazing !
Nice! Was just looking to get some more Osmo soon
Have you looked at using the white non abrasive pads to apply?
Cheers mate!
I havnt, these cloths are brilliant seriously. The finish they give is 👌 and they are FREEEE 🙂😊
Must be the cheapo side in me 🤣
@@samrix5793 I use non abrasive but last time I used 3/16 nap roller on a 4x8 sheet of baltic birch with great results.
Where do you buy the cloth? What’s it called?
He talks about it in the video.
It's at 9:31 for anyone like me looking for it. 9:31
Do you still use the bits of ply with patches in
Only for the carcasses, not doors. We'll possible on the rear face of the door but it all depends how noticeable the patch is 👍
That’s what I thought 👍
Wow
Are you able to get birch ply at a reasonable price?
Well I bought this stock about 2 years ago, 44 sheets in total of 18mm. I picked them up for £68 per sheet.
Now you would be lucky to pick one up for less than £140 per sheet. Try mp morans if you are in the UK 👍
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop Thanks. I have 1 sheet of 18mm and nearly 2 sheets of 12mm but don't know what to do with them. It's going to have to be something special. 😳
AB grade here is AUD$300
DOES the OSMO OIL. DARKEN WITH UV RAYS OVER TIME ? as Ikea furniture does .
I don't believe so