my $0.02 is that if you're doing small shop projects just get an HVLP the problem with airless is they need like ~3/4 of a gallon to fill the lines that means you always need 2 gallons of paint in order to paint something it also needs 1-2 gallons of water to purge the lines and clean it out there's also a lot more overspray even with a 311 fine finish tip, you have to put up tarps in a square to contain the overspray (I learned this the hard way got paint dust across my garage) that's a lot of hassle for doing home projects and even for cabinets (unless you have the space for a whole kitchen) the main benefit is you can spray latex without thinning and do it all in 1 coat with an HVLP you only need a pint of paint but you will most likely need to thin it by ~25% and do 2-3 coats the extra coats can be done almost instantly. i will spray 3 panels at once and by the time the 3rd panel is done, the 1st is dry to the touch and can be sprayed again I have found that in an HVLP, use a super premium paint. they come less thick in the can and when thinned seem to perform ok too the cheap $30/gallon stuff doesn't self level as good so when thinned you will see lots of micro dots and you will need to thin it more. get the $60/gallon stuff. this stuff usually performs better too for scuffs n cleaning the HVLP also has almost no overspray. you can spray in 1/4 of a 2 car garage and not get paint any where. just place a tarp on the floor and on the walls adjacent. no need for a full square of tarps the clean up is also way easier. just clean the gun. it's easier than cleaning a paint brush. I ended up buying: full-sized airless (the one on a cart with wheels), handheld airless, HVLP + 26g compressor. ironically all of them were about the same price. ($400 ea setup) I went with an HVLP on a compressor vs turbine because I said to myself, I already have a bunch of pneumatic nailers.. cordless nailers are $200-300 each so might as well get a quiet compressor and use all my existing tools. the wife no longer complains. you cannot hear the compressor at all inside the house. even right next to the garage door it's about as loud as my AC vents in short, use an airless to paint your house, use an HVLP to paint your woodworking projects (unless you have a full on shop)
Just found your site and love it. keep up the good work especially the detail that you go into very important for folks trying this for the first time.
Your thoughts on sanding are spot on! This is my 3rd video of yours I've watched and love the tips I've learned. Starting the sprayer below the surface is a great tip to avoid splatter, I've encountered that in the past. It's another step but using a couple biscuits makes aligning the face frame a little easier.
Nice work and I'm curious to know why you sprayed the first coat with the SW lacquer. Why not go straight to the shellac primer? You must have a good reason why! Cheers!!
Have you tried the Gallery Series by sherwin-williams? Not sure if you have a video of your spray booth how it's set up but would love to see that setup
I don't know if this is good or not but i sand all of the inside before I put the cabinet together. I see you use a sanding pad that will take the same discs as the power sander..I also finish the inside before assembly - not right or wrong - just the way I do it... Wish I had a spray room. I have worked in a couple of shops with one and they are great... Spray up and down - not right or wrong - just your way, and fine if it gets the job done!!! Love those sanding blocks!!! I use the same ones. Bang, your shot!!!!!
Great series. My cabinets are way overdue for a facelift but I plan to do what no one else seems to even mention doing. I’m going to paint the inside of my cabinets with a high gloss enamel. As that’s where my dishes, herbs & spices, as well as much of my food lives, I want it to be as well washable as the outside. Italso makes it easier to see. Iam also going to add one or more columns of holes, depending on thewidth of the cabinet, on the back to putmore shelf supports. These things may havesomething to do with why I can’t find anyone to that I can afford to work for me. 🤓
I'm a painting contractor and I often paint the insides of the cabinet and after hit it with a clear coat (at least on the shelf.) This makes the surface extremely durable, heavy ceramics don't stick or make scuffs/ impressions into the enamel. Of course scuff sand between the paint coat and lacquer/poly clear coat.
Are you spraying the inside because you prefer them to be the same as the outside? Otherwise you could shoot whatever gloss polyurethane you want on the inside.
@@markburton9614 No. The inside will be white while the outside will be pale yellow or light sage green. No matter what the color on the outside, I want the inside to be a high gloss white enamel.
@@roberttaylor4780 i have purchased the mini mite 4, great reviews for all sprayers! with that said i am spraying zinsser bullseye 123 primer and Sherwin Williams emerald trim urethane(water base paint). both diluted(about 6oz of water per quart do not over thin) using the 1.8 fugi cap and needle. hope this helps.
@@LincolnWoodworks thanks. Do you find that the paint is durable enough especially after thinning? Is it suitable for high traffic areas like a kitchen or better suited to wardrobes?
@@roberttaylor4780 yes sir! I was super impressed with how well the sprayer worked and how the paint looked! We have a small UA-cam channel(check it out we have some fun), we are new with the sprayer and have not showed it yet but it's awesome . Diluteing the paint is more common than not, I think alot of people do not want to say that they do. Another good channel that explains more about prep and clean up with fugi is, Armor of God woodwork on UA-cam.
Not a bad job, good safety measures! I personally use UV-finished plywood for interiors, tape it off so overspray doesn't pepper the insides, and use Gemini vinyl sealer for first step and either Gemini precat lacquer or conversion varnish for subsequent coats (stained finishes) and white vinyl sealer (painted finishes)...with the faceframe already attached so Bondo/Famowood filled nail holes get finished at the same time. Sherwin Williams lacquer is so low in solids and has become so sub-par lately. But, 150 grit is king! trust this guy...it's all you need!
I like a the Emerald too. Supper hard finish when dry. I sprayed it a Sata 5000 using a 1.3 tip thinning 10%. Has an automotive finish. I did have to spray it at 45 psi. I want to see how the air spraying worked. I think a bigger tip would help . Thanks for the videos learning a lot.
I've sprayed all my painted furniture with a gravity fed HVLP gun. I'll usually thin the paint a little and run a 1.5 or 1.7 mm tip and remove the filter inside the gun that's under the cup. Everything sprays great and melds together perfectly. Only issue ever ran into was spraying it when it was too hot(95* in the garage) and it would dry too fast causing a rough feel.
You might want to look at M.L. Campbell products . They are a couple steps up from the over the counter paint store products. I still use solvent based finishes - mainly the Magnamax line of pre catalyzed finishes. Campbell makes an opaque tint that works great for white cabinets and then top coated with Magnamax dull or satin clear finish. I have commercial bartops finished over 15 years ago with magnamax with no finish failure. Your graco system will work well with these finishes. I use a Sata pump system.
I'm a newbie and would like to know why do most experience cabinet makers build the face frame a little bigger than the face of the box. Why you don't put it flush?
Love the opening of the video...great job..I also, like the MIB reference...anyway, what got me to your video as wondering about HVLP vs Airless which I don't recall you speaking to. More specifically, I'm wondering "HOW" dry the air from my compressor to use my HVLP gun, or should I just go with the Fuji system? Thanks in advance, and I appreciate the effort you put into your video...
I'm interested in buying an HVLP sprayer, but I'm concerned about it getting paint everywhere. Like when I used spray paint to paint my ceiling fan blades. I removed them and put them in the basement and after painting them, there was a thin film of paint covering just about every surface in my basement. Does this happen with HVLP sprayers too?
Did you thin the Zinsser BIN? With what? The last two cans i got didn't say what to thin them with. Also should mention the most recent can said it had synthetic shellac in it and did not sand as nice. Lots of gumming my sand paper, so I ended up wet sanding just to keep my paper clean.
Yes because I’m using SW emerald urethane it’s very thick and don’t like to dilute it much. I used a graco x5 with FFLP tip! For ventilation I have a 24” explosion proof fan pulling the fumes out through a filter. Hope this helps 👍🏻
I’ve been using Emerald urethane from SW thinned about 10% with my Fuji HVLP and have been having great results! I want to try the Gallery series it’s just soo expensive 😳
It’s a 14x24 and I closed off half of it to actually spray in. The other half is where everything dries. It’s got a 24” explosion proof fan to pull the fumes out with a filter in front of the fans. What else would you like to know?
@@eastcarolinawoodworks thanks. This is the next thing I need to build in my shop. I was thinking of making a 12 foot wide six foot deep, open face booth. Filter wall and fan on back wall. My trouble is incoming air. I’m afraid all my shop dust will just be sucked right over my wet finish. Just trying to determine what to do.
@@nathangrepke4193 I’d recommend closing it off. There is a chance of that happening for sure but other people paint in open face spray booths in their shop all the time. It’s really what you can afford at the time. 👍🏻
So in one video you put the drawers in and it wasn't painted or stained. Since staining is usually just rubbing on, do you put the drawers in (minus drawer faces) before you stain.. but when painting do it after?
The Emerald paint instructions say to use a 0.013 tip size minimum. The Graco FFLP tip in your link is a 0.01 size and it still worked? And about how much pressure did you add with the pressure dial? I also have an X5.
Just really depends on the customer. I find 75% of the clients don’t even really care that it’s on the inside but if they do I fill with pocket hole cutouts 👍🏻
I may do a video on this soon but short version I pre drill the pull handles and line my drawer front up where I want it to be. Then I run screws through the pre drilled holes into my drawer box. At the point the front is fastened to the drawer box. Next I open the drawer and screw in the drawer front from the inside of the drawer. Then you can remove screws from the drawer pull holes finish drilling them out into the drawer and install handles. Hope this makes sense, it’s super easy 👍🏻
😃I've enjoyed your videos and just subscribed and have watched most of your cabinet construction videos. My question regards the toe kick. I've noticed that you install it between the sides, and don't install it until after finishing. I'm curious why not. I suppose it has to do with job requirements. My expectations were that you'd put it on the outside (front) and paint/finish it. Then, if your baseboards don't fully cover the 4", the product will still have a finished look for the floor crawlers. Thanks.
No he sprayed the inside with lacquer to protect the inside since he didn’t paint the inside. The outside was painted with primer (not lacquer) because he painted the outside with actual paint, hope this helps
I also have a Fuji 4 stage turbine with gravity feed gun with a 1.4mm tip. I'm spraying that exact paint on a project this weekend. Do you thin the paint before you spray and if so, how much? I'm wondering if I should be spraying with a 1.8 instead. Thanks!
Intersting that you did not tape or seal off the inside. You must be very confident of the lack of overspray. Thanks for the video from your "neighbor" in Chocowinity NC
I had cardboard laying down on the inside to help with overspray. I don’t worry soo much with overspray light sand will take it out worse case. Glad to see someone local watching!
Hi, Joe in Chocowinity. Greetings to Beaufort Co. from northern Wake Co. here. I LOVE making cabinets (only frameless Euro style since I've seen the light), but absolutely Nobody can loathe painting them as much as I do. Not only is it miserable work, I feel like I spend 10 minutes of cleaning my Graco for every minute of actual painting. YUCK!!!
I am buying a Fuji and will be spraying my cabinets one of these days. I have been building and remodeling since I was 17 which is 50 years. When I got a price to have it done 😮SERIOUSLY??? I can buy myself a nice Fuji system and do it myself and save money…not my first rodeo and any excuse to buy tools AND save money is a no brainer!
I have a Q5 that I just got, haven't used it yet... wanted to shoot Insl-x cabinet coat with it... which is a urethane like the Sherwin... think the Q5 will shoot it?
Great video!!! I want to spray some cabinets, and I'd love to buy a Fuji sprayer, but... since I only have this one project, I can't justify it. I have one of those small pancake air compressors that people use around the garage for blowing up bike tires and shooting brads. Do you know if I buy a cheap $40 Harbor Freight HVLP gun... will it work for spraying cabinets? Now... I 100% know it won't work... WELL... but... I don't even know it if would work AT ALL. I figure the air compressor will kick on ever 2-3 passes... so it would be slow going... but... it's possible... yeah? Or... do you think it just won't even work at all?
Enjoy your video. Quick question the spraying paint. Have you tried to spray it with your Fuji? I have a Fuji Q5 and building my own kitchen cabinets and was going to spray them using the Fuji. Already didn’t the insides with M.L Cambells Krystal and look great. Just curious about doing the outsides and the Fuji
I work out of a 25x30 but I have a separate building 14x24 that I spray in. I closed off about a 12x14 room in the back of the 14x24 building and turned into spray booth 👍🏻
I’m getting ready to spray cabinets but waiting for the weather to get above 60’s. Spraying Emerald as well but Sherwin recommended their wood/metal primer. Have you used this, and should I use the Zin/Bin instead?
Just stumbled across your videos. You do great work! What is the red apparatus you put on a gallon can to pour? I’d like to have one of those, it looks so handy!
Will the paint give a nice hard finish for a long time. We have cabinets in our home now that I think previous owners painted and the finish is kinda sticky to the fingers.
@@eastcarolinawoodworks Okay. Well, it's CERTAINLY worth a try. It's been the reason I haven't wanted to finish cabinets the Airbnb I'm building because I don't feel I can get the finish that pre-finished cabinets get from the manufacturer.
@@cackleberryfarm4598 this finish is way better than any finish you buy from Lowes or Home Depot 👍🏻 you will definitely be able to tell the difference!
Great video. I’m enjoying this series on the cabinets. I do have a question. What material is that you have over your miter saw. I really like that idea.
I'm a fan of using every cubic inch of storage space. I did something similar recently but made it a flip-down door. Really handy in our small kitchen.
Great work brother! Only thing I'd recommend is not touching the surfaces with your bare hands.... the natural oils on your skin can cause issues with the paint... I use latex gloves
@@eastcarolinawoodworks I learned that from my buddy who's an autobody man.... it can cause fish-eye, where the finish doesn't adhere correctly in spots
Is there a reason why you didn’t paint the SW emerald with the HVLP? Could you have painted it with the HVLP? I have a Graco X5 and the blue/green fine finish tips, but debating to buy the Harbor fright 5 stage HVLP just because it seems SO much easier and less time then the graco x5 for smaller jobs. Please Let me know your thoughts
@@eastcarolinawoodworks you are one bourbon bottle in a video away from a total BourbonMoth vibe. Really enjoy your videos so far, and looking forward to more!
A lot of people here are not looking for instructions on how to actually paint cabinets, but to just watch this thing coming together. That's why details, like all those multiple coats, closeups of the surface before sanding and after, could be very jucy for us. Especially closeups. But thanks for the vid.
Thanks man, I’ll make it quick, can you spray “cover spray”from zinsser using an HVLP? If so what tip you recommend? it’s an oil base primer , on the can it says not to thin it,
@@21gonza21I’ll respond for you. You can spray anything you want via hvlp. Get yourself a cup to measure the viscosity. Then look at your hvlp manual. It should have a tip and viscosity guide. I have an Apollo 7700 ran off of an air compressor, you can run it off of a turbine but I like the additional control. My largest tip is a 2.2. The ability to spray the coating is limited to how much air you have to work with. This is also why you see him spraying the emerald with his airless because he uses a turbine instead of an air compressor. If you don’t have a larger tip and struggle to get heavier coatings out, run a separate regulator for the cup to increase the pressure or use a 2 quart remote pressure pot. If it doesn’t atomize enough, add more air. Once you get over 10psi cup pressure, it’s no longer considered high pressure low volume and considered a high pressure high volume similar to a conventional sprayer. Also, You can thin oil based but due to the EPA it is illegal and they will send the ATF to shoot your dog or something like that so the manufacturers don’t want their dog or your dog dead so they have to print do not thin.
I used to get the small bottles with applicator tips for doing hair from salons for doing glazing in door profiles before the amazing glaze came out, they worked pretty well if you are glazing with liquid glaze vs spraying and wiping it. How big is your opening for your top drawer? It looks a bit bigger than what I'm used to seeing which is about 5" or so. Anyway, thanks for the vid and the tip about starting the airless below the cabinets is great because I have tried spraying flat pieces side to side and you are right you do occasionally get that little sputter or drip which is frustrating. Cheers!
I was expecting a video with more of a HVLP vs Airless, as the title says.
I'm pre-disappointed
Agreed!!! Weaknesses- I skipped ahead once realizing it wasn’t what I was seeking for
I was looking for a comparison between HVLP and Airless. Maybe change your title so it's not so misleading. It might improve your view duration too!
my $0.02 is that if you're doing small shop projects just get an HVLP
the problem with airless is they need like ~3/4 of a gallon to fill the lines
that means you always need 2 gallons of paint in order to paint something
it also needs 1-2 gallons of water to purge the lines and clean it out
there's also a lot more overspray even with a 311 fine finish tip, you have to put up tarps in a square to contain the overspray (I learned this the hard way got paint dust across my garage)
that's a lot of hassle for doing home projects and even for cabinets (unless you have the space for a whole kitchen)
the main benefit is you can spray latex without thinning and do it all in 1 coat
with an HVLP you only need a pint of paint
but you will most likely need to thin it by ~25% and do 2-3 coats
the extra coats can be done almost instantly. i will spray 3 panels at once and by the time the 3rd panel is done, the 1st is dry to the touch and can be sprayed again
I have found that in an HVLP, use a super premium paint. they come less thick in the can and when thinned seem to perform ok too
the cheap $30/gallon stuff doesn't self level as good so when thinned you will see lots of micro dots and you will need to thin it more.
get the $60/gallon stuff. this stuff usually performs better too for scuffs n cleaning
the HVLP also has almost no overspray. you can spray in 1/4 of a 2 car garage and not get paint any where. just place a tarp on the floor and on the walls adjacent. no need for a full square of tarps
the clean up is also way easier. just clean the gun. it's easier than cleaning a paint brush.
I ended up buying: full-sized airless (the one on a cart with wheels), handheld airless, HVLP + 26g compressor. ironically all of them were about the same price. ($400 ea setup)
I went with an HVLP on a compressor vs turbine because I said to myself, I already have a bunch of pneumatic nailers.. cordless nailers are $200-300 each so might as well get a quiet compressor and use all my existing tools. the wife no longer complains. you cannot hear the compressor at all inside the house. even right next to the garage door it's about as loud as my AC vents
in short, use an airless to paint your house, use an HVLP to paint your woodworking projects (unless you have a full on shop)
@@dylan-nguyenI really value this write up. Answered a lot of my questions. Thank you!
What a shop you have. Cleaner than a hospital. Great video. Thanks !!!!!!!!
Did you do anything to plug the pocket holes.
This is by far one of the best UA-cams I've ever seen.
Thank You.
Depends on the client. 90% of people don’t even pay them any attention
Enjoying this series of cabinet building . . . and ur commentary is great too. Very entertaining!
Glad your enjoying the videos! 👍🏻
Love it man. Nice job!
why you do not paint back of the back
Just found your site and love it. keep up the good work especially the detail that you go into very important for folks trying this for the first time.
Thanks I really appreciate it! 👍🏻
Your thoughts on sanding are spot on! This is my 3rd video of yours I've watched and love the tips I've learned. Starting the sprayer below the surface is a great tip to avoid splatter, I've encountered that in the past.
It's another step but using a couple biscuits makes aligning the face frame a little easier.
Nice work and I'm curious to know why you sprayed the first coat with the SW lacquer. Why not go straight to the shellac primer? You must have a good reason why! Cheers!!
I am also curious as to why this step was added.
only for clear interior of cabinet
Have you tried the Gallery Series by sherwin-williams? Not sure if you have a video of your spray booth how it's set up but would love to see that setup
Never a dull moment! LOL! I watched two of your other videos and have learned soo much. Great tips and love the intros. I cant wait to start painting!
I don't know if this is good or not but i sand all of the inside before I put the cabinet together. I see you use a sanding pad that will take the same discs as the power sander..I also finish the inside before assembly - not right or wrong - just the way I do it... Wish I had a spray room. I have worked in a couple of shops with one and they are great... Spray up and down - not right or wrong - just your way, and fine if it gets the job done!!! Love those sanding blocks!!! I use the same ones. Bang, your shot!!!!!
Great series. My cabinets are way overdue for a facelift but I plan to do what no one else seems to even mention doing. I’m going to paint the inside of my cabinets with a high gloss enamel. As that’s where my dishes, herbs & spices, as well as much of my food lives, I want it to be as well washable as the outside. Italso makes it easier to see. Iam also going to add one or more columns of holes, depending on thewidth of the cabinet, on the back to putmore shelf supports.
These things may havesomething to do with why I can’t find anyone to that I can afford to work for me. 🤓
I'm a painting contractor and I often paint the insides of the cabinet and after hit it with a clear coat (at least on the shelf.) This makes the surface extremely durable, heavy ceramics don't stick or make scuffs/ impressions into the enamel. Of course scuff sand between the paint coat and lacquer/poly clear coat.
Are you spraying the inside because you prefer them to be the same as the outside? Otherwise you could shoot whatever gloss polyurethane you want on the inside.
@@markburton9614 No. The inside will be white while the outside will be pale yellow or light sage green. No matter what the color on the outside, I want the inside to be a high gloss white enamel.
You and Bourbon Moth must be two brothers by a different mother. 🤩👍👍
When does the video for HVLP vs Airless sprayers come out? 😢
Not sure if it's been asked, but can you spray latex well enough with your mini mite 4 and not needed to switch to the graco
Keen to know the answer too as I have a Fuji hvlp and looking for a very durable paint to use with it.
@@roberttaylor4780 i have purchased the mini mite 4, great reviews for all sprayers! with that said i am spraying zinsser bullseye 123 primer and Sherwin Williams emerald trim urethane(water base paint). both diluted(about 6oz of water per quart do not over thin) using the 1.8 fugi cap and needle. hope this helps.
@@LincolnWoodworks thanks. Do you find that the paint is durable enough especially after thinning? Is it suitable for high traffic areas like a kitchen or better suited to wardrobes?
@@roberttaylor4780 yes sir! I was super impressed with how well the sprayer worked and how the paint looked! We have a small UA-cam channel(check it out we have some fun), we are new with the sprayer and have not showed it yet but it's awesome . Diluteing the paint is more common than not, I think alot of people do not want to say that they do. Another good channel that explains more about prep and clean up with fugi is, Armor of God woodwork on UA-cam.
Not a bad job, good safety measures! I personally use UV-finished plywood for interiors, tape it off so overspray doesn't pepper the insides, and use Gemini vinyl sealer for first step and either Gemini precat lacquer or conversion varnish for subsequent coats (stained finishes) and white vinyl sealer (painted finishes)...with the faceframe already attached so Bondo/Famowood filled nail holes get finished at the same time. Sherwin Williams lacquer is so low in solids and has become so sub-par lately. But, 150 grit is king! trust this guy...it's all you need!
What do you use for water based lacquer or paint - I can’t use oil in my shop
Fantastic video! Stumbled upon your channel and glad I did. Even got a few tips from ya. Keep up the good work :)
I replayed that first 20 seconds so many times, it's freakin' hilarious! 😂 I'm crying from laughing too much! I love your videos man!
I like a the Emerald too. Supper hard finish when dry. I sprayed it a Sata 5000 using a 1.3 tip thinning 10%. Has an automotive finish. I did have to spray it at 45 psi. I want to see how the air spraying worked. I think a bigger tip would help . Thanks for the videos learning a lot.
Glad you enjoyed the video and hope they continue to help 👍🏻
I've sprayed all my painted furniture with a gravity fed HVLP gun. I'll usually thin the paint a little and run a 1.5 or 1.7 mm tip and remove the filter inside the gun that's under the cup. Everything sprays great and melds together perfectly. Only issue ever ran into was spraying it when it was too hot(95* in the garage) and it would dry too fast causing a rough feel.
What kind of paint do you use? Often times you can add a touch of slow solvent to retard the drying allowing it to flow out nice.
You might want to look at M.L. Campbell products . They are a couple steps up from the over the counter paint store products. I still use solvent based finishes - mainly the Magnamax line of pre catalyzed finishes. Campbell makes an opaque tint that works great for white cabinets and then top coated with Magnamax dull or satin clear finish. I have commercial bartops finished over 15 years ago with magnamax with no finish failure. Your graco system will work well with these finishes. I use a Sata pump system.
Wax paper between the clamp and paint works good
I'm a newbie and would like to know why do most experience cabinet makers build the face frame a little bigger than the face of the box. Why you don't put it flush?
would it be beneficial to have a set of clamps with some felt on them for use on finish work like after paint?
How do you like the Graco Airless Sprayer? How does it do with primer?
Love the opening of the video...great job..I also, like the MIB reference...anyway, what got me to your video as wondering about HVLP vs Airless which I don't recall you speaking to.
More specifically, I'm wondering "HOW" dry the air from my compressor to use my HVLP gun, or should I just go with the Fuji system?
Thanks in advance, and I appreciate the effort you put into your video...
use filters on your air lines to prevent moisture
Di you clean your fuji in between coats of the BINS primer? What about the Graco between coats of the EMERALD
Hi, from Italy. I have a question: why the frame is slightly wider than the body ?
most cabinets here have a frame that over hangs about a quarter inch.
I'm interested in buying an HVLP sprayer, but I'm concerned about it getting paint everywhere. Like when I used spray paint to paint my ceiling fan blades. I removed them and put them in the basement and after painting them, there was a thin film of paint covering just about every surface in my basement. Does this happen with HVLP sprayers too?
Every HVLP sprayer I looked at says NOT FOR LATEX PAINT. so I"m confused. Seems like everyone uses them.
Would you use the hvlp or the airless to finish doors?
Great video! How much pressure did you add with the pressure dial? I have a graco x5
Great video! Love to know all about your spray area and exhaust fan. Is there any make up air? Thanks😊
What exhaust system do you use?
Did you thin the Zinsser BIN? With what? The last two cans i got didn't say what to thin them with. Also should mention the most recent can said it had synthetic shellac in it and did not sand as nice. Lots of gumming my sand paper, so I ended up wet sanding just to keep my paper clean.
I'm obviously from E Carolina too...I understood every word you said in the intro 😮
Do you add a thin appearance piece to the kick plate to hide the plywood edge? Perhaps a white piece?
Great vid. Thanks for laugh and the info
If cabinets need to repainted, would you recommend to send it down and put a primer or it’s going to be fine without primer?
Yes i always recommend sanding down to refinish!
What type of ventilation system did you design. Looks like you used a different sprayer for the paint. Am I right…what type of sprayer did you use….
Yes because I’m using SW emerald urethane it’s very thick and don’t like to dilute it much. I used a graco x5 with FFLP tip! For ventilation I have a 24” explosion proof fan pulling the fumes out through a filter. Hope this helps 👍🏻
If you switch over to SW Gallery you can do it all with the HVLP. I'm trying it out now on a MM5 platinum.
I’ve been using Emerald urethane from SW thinned about 10% with my Fuji HVLP and have been having great results! I want to try the Gallery series it’s just soo expensive 😳
Is the enamel as hard as a lacquer? How long does it take to dry? And why not a precat lacquer?
How do you manage the over spray to the inside of the cabinet, thats a problem for me because Im terrible at how to tape it off properly
What do you do with the pocket holes on the inside of the carcass?
What tip(s) did you use for the Fuji? Thinking of getting one.... 😉
I’ve got all the tips but for spraying the Zinsser bin primer I find either the 1.0 or 1.3mm nozzle works best! They are great hvlp sprayers!
@@eastcarolinawoodworks Thanks; how about for the lacquer?
@@deanharris2240 I spray the primer and lacquer with the 1.3mm tip mostly!
I live in Wilmington and am a cabinet guy as well.
Awesome! Thanks for checking out my channel 👍🏻
Only video that I’ve seen that actually installed a toe kick. Do you band and paint the toe kick?
I’d like to know about your spray booth. What does that all consist of?
It’s a 14x24 and I closed off half of it to actually spray in. The other half is where everything dries. It’s got a 24” explosion proof fan to pull the fumes out with a filter in front of the fans. What else would you like to know?
@@eastcarolinawoodworks thanks. This is the next thing I need to build in my shop. I was thinking of making a 12 foot wide six foot deep, open face booth. Filter wall and fan on back wall. My trouble is incoming air. I’m afraid all my shop dust will just be sucked right over my wet finish. Just trying to determine what to do.
@@nathangrepke4193 I’d recommend closing it off. There is a chance of that happening for sure but other people paint in open face spray booths in their shop all the time. It’s really what you can afford at the time. 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks Thanks so much for your replies. It means a lot!
@@nathangrepke4193 no problem glad I could help 😎
Doesn't overspray from outside get into the clear coat interior?
So in one video you put the drawers in and it wasn't painted or stained. Since staining is usually just rubbing on, do you put the drawers in (minus drawer faces) before you stain.. but when painting do it after?
The Emerald paint instructions say to use a 0.013 tip size minimum. The Graco FFLP tip in your link is a 0.01 size and it still worked? And about how much pressure did you add with the pressure dial? I also have an X5.
Looks like my cabinet build. But what do you do about the pocket holes on the inside of the cabinet? Wood filler? Pocket hole cutout?
Just really depends on the customer. I find 75% of the clients don’t even really care that it’s on the inside but if they do I fill with pocket hole cutouts 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks personally I wouldn't want to open a cabinet and see all the holes. But I'm biased toward frameless, hate making frames.
My bin spraying through hvlp compressor is getting orange peel any thoughts ? Thanks
On cabinets doors first coat
@@tyturner9759 what nozzle size are you using?
@@eastcarolinawoodworks i thought this may be the issue 1.7
I'm switching too 1.3 tmo
@ thats what I use. I spray light coats and usually tune the air down slightly
How do you install a drawer front to your cabinet drawers, where it looks clean?
I may do a video on this soon but short version I pre drill the pull handles and line my drawer front up where I want it to be. Then I run screws through the pre drilled holes into my drawer box. At the point the front is fastened to the drawer box. Next I open the drawer and screw in the drawer front from the inside of the drawer. Then you can remove screws from the drawer pull holes finish drilling them out into the drawer and install handles. Hope this makes sense, it’s super easy 👍🏻
Question on your face frames. How come they’re not flush on the sides, is this because this cabinet would be freestanding?
I like to overhang the face frame for scribing or any inconsistencies with the cabinet carcass! Its not necessary, its more of a preference 👍
@@eastcarolinawoodworks Cool, thanks for replying!
😃I've enjoyed your videos and just subscribed and have watched most of your cabinet construction videos. My question regards the toe kick. I've noticed that you install it between the sides, and don't install it until after finishing. I'm curious why not. I suppose it has to do with job requirements. My expectations were that you'd put it on the outside (front) and paint/finish it. Then, if your baseboards don't fully cover the 4", the product will still have a finished look for the floor crawlers. Thanks.
Hi there, could you share what primer and paint did you use in the video? Thank you
I use Zinsser bin primer and SW Emerald urethane for paint 👍🏻
This was the first time I’ve seen someone spray lacquer and then prime! Is that to seal the wood more effectively than just the enamel paint will?
No he sprayed the inside with lacquer to protect the inside since he didn’t paint the inside. The outside was painted with primer (not lacquer) because he painted the outside with actual paint, hope this helps
I use refinished plywood,saves on labor,thanks for the video.
So the first lacquer material you sprayed on was a sanding sealer? Doesn’t that eliminate the need for primer?
I only spray lacquer on the inside of my cabinet. The outside gets sprayed with Zinsser bin primer
Did you sand between coats on the finish urethane paint or not necessary?
I’m 🫤 confused, but then again I’m new at this, why lacquer under primer and top coat?
I’m spraying lacquer only on the inside of the cabinet to protect the bare wood. Outside gets primer and top coat. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworksoh thank you, and good work👍
I also have a Fuji 4 stage turbine with gravity feed gun with a 1.4mm tip. I'm spraying that exact paint on a project this weekend. Do you thin the paint before you spray and if so, how much? I'm wondering if I should be spraying with a 1.8 instead. Thanks!
I thin it 10% but I spray it with a 2.0mm tip with my Fuji gun 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks Wow! Sounds like I need to order a bigger tip. No wonder I had to thin it much more than you do. Thanks!
@@eastcarolinawoodworks I just read up on Roger's website and he recommends a 1.8 but it sounds like the 2.0 works well for you.
@@hhanger1 it really just depends on how much you thin it. I’ve heard a 1.8 works well for others as well 👍🏻
@East Carolina Woodworks - what tip are you using in the Graco X5 with the Emerald - I understand it's a Fine Finish tip, but which one?
Are you suposed to paint inside,, and if not why? do i have to sand b4 primer?
Wow I like the way it done 👍 without scratch 😅😅
Intersting that you did not tape or seal off the inside. You must be very confident of the lack of overspray. Thanks for the video from your "neighbor" in Chocowinity NC
I had cardboard laying down on the inside to help with overspray. I don’t worry soo much with overspray light sand will take it out worse case. Glad to see someone local watching!
Hi, Joe in Chocowinity. Greetings to Beaufort Co. from northern Wake Co. here. I LOVE making cabinets (only frameless Euro style since I've seen the light), but absolutely Nobody can loathe painting them as much as I do. Not only is it miserable work, I feel like I spend 10 minutes of cleaning my Graco for every minute of actual painting. YUCK!!!
I am buying a Fuji and will be spraying my cabinets one of these days. I have been building and remodeling since I was 17 which is 50 years. When I got a price to have it done 😮SERIOUSLY??? I can buy myself a nice Fuji system and do it myself and save money…not my first rodeo and any excuse to buy tools AND save money is a no brainer!
Did you lose the video footage showing you comparing HVLP with airless also?
Can the inside of the cabinets be painted rather than shellacked?
Great video!
Thanks for the positive feedback 👍🏻
Have you had any adhesion problems gluing the face-frame to the carcass since painting it first?
Never had a problem!
What do you use to clean the gun after using BIN primer? 6:35
I do a mixture of ammonia and water. 50/50 mix and cleans it right up!
@@eastcarolinawoodworks 🎯
I have a Q5 that I just got, haven't used it yet... wanted to shoot Insl-x cabinet coat with it... which is a urethane like the Sherwin... think the Q5 will shoot it?
From my understanding I think it will with the right tip size. Still may have to dilute it some but I think with the 5 stage it should work!
Did you have to thin the zinsser?
I did not!
Why did u used laqure before the primer?
I only spray the lacquer on the inside of the cabinet!
Nice work 💯💯
Nice work
Great video!!! I want to spray some cabinets, and I'd love to buy a Fuji sprayer, but... since I only have this one project, I can't justify it. I have one of those small pancake air compressors that people use around the garage for blowing up bike tires and shooting brads. Do you know if I buy a cheap $40 Harbor Freight HVLP gun... will it work for spraying cabinets? Now... I 100% know it won't work... WELL... but... I don't even know it if would work AT ALL. I figure the air compressor will kick on ever 2-3 passes... so it would be slow going... but... it's possible... yeah? Or... do you think it just won't even work at all?
HVLP vs Airless? I didn't get the comparisons.
Do you thin the primer at all?
Enjoy your video. Quick question the spraying paint. Have you tried to spray it with your Fuji? I have a Fuji Q5 and building my own kitchen cabinets and was going to spray them using the Fuji. Already didn’t the insides with M.L Cambells Krystal and look great. Just curious about doing the outsides and the Fuji
Yes I have! It sprays well using 2.0 tip and thinned about 10% 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks thank you
I have a LVHP gun for my cars I paint. Can I use this with indoor paints? My wife wants to paint her cabinets with my gun. Well have me paint them lol
Have you use Sherwood water base lacquer ? I hate the the dry time on SW Emerld paint.
Yea dry time sucks but it dries hard and levels out pretty good! I have not tried the water based lacquer 🤔
Maybe the pictures are misleading, but it looks like the face frame on the bottom protrudes quite a bit above the bottom shelf. If so, why?
On this particular cabinet it does but I’ve built them both ways to where the bottom shelf is flush with the faced frame 👍🏻
What kind of building are you using for your shop?
I work out of a 25x30 but I have a separate building 14x24 that I spray in. I closed off about a 12x14 room in the back of the 14x24 building and turned into spray booth 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks it looks like a metal frame structure with a tarp/fabric over it. Who is the manufacturer? Thanks.
@@mickeydavis7929 it’s a metal building. That’s insulation your seeing. It’s made by superior metal structures.
I’m getting ready to spray cabinets but waiting for the weather to get above 60’s. Spraying Emerald as well but Sherwin recommended their wood/metal primer. Have you used this, and should I use the Zin/Bin instead?
I have not used it I’ve always done BIN because of dry time. I like that I can sand between coats in 15-20mins
Do you tape off the interior of cabinets prior to spraying?
Depends how I have to spray. A lot of times I just throw cardboard in the inside and spray at certain angles to prevent over spray in the cabinet
@@eastcarolinawoodworks Thanks! Loving the content man. Carpenter by trade, woodworking hobbyist. Really enjoy the content.
@@TMillaT thanks for the great feedback 👍🏻
Just stumbled across your videos. You do great work! What is the red apparatus you put on a gallon can to pour? I’d like to have one of those, it looks so handy!
Will the paint give a nice hard finish for a long time. We have cabinets in our home now that I think previous owners painted and the finish is kinda sticky to the fingers.
Sherwin Williams urethane enamel cures hard and I can’t recommend it enough!
@@eastcarolinawoodworks Okay. Well, it's CERTAINLY worth a try. It's been the reason I haven't wanted to finish cabinets the Airbnb I'm building because I don't feel I can get the finish that pre-finished cabinets get from the manufacturer.
@@cackleberryfarm4598 this finish is way better than any finish you buy from Lowes or Home Depot 👍🏻 you will definitely be able to tell the difference!
@@eastcarolinawoodworks all right! I will give it a shot!
Great video. I’m enjoying this series on the cabinets. I do have a question. What material is that you have over your miter saw. I really like that idea.
It’s a rubber stair tread that I cut slits in! Works pretty good 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks That’s pretty ingenious. Thanks for the reply. Keep up the great content.
Have you ever made drawers in the toe kick area for pans baking sheets etc…
I personally haven’t. Not that I couldn’t do it just haven’t had a customer or request for it. Maybe one day I’ll do them 🤫
I'm a fan of using every cubic inch of storage space. I did something similar recently but made it a flip-down door. Really handy in our small kitchen.
really nice job
Great work brother! Only thing I'd recommend is not touching the surfaces with your bare hands.... the natural oils on your skin can cause issues with the paint... I use latex gloves
Very smart and I’ll keep that in mind moving forward! 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks I learned that from my buddy who's an autobody man.... it can cause fish-eye, where the finish doesn't adhere correctly in spots
Is there a reason why you didn’t paint the SW emerald with the HVLP? Could you have painted it with the HVLP?
I have a Graco X5 and the blue/green fine finish tips, but debating to buy the Harbor fright 5 stage HVLP just because it seems SO much easier and less time then the graco x5 for smaller jobs. Please Let me know your thoughts
Ever try Benjamin moore command? Drys quick
I have not! I’ll look into it though 👍🏻
Where did you get the Fuji sprayer that uses a disposable cup????
It’s called the 3m PPS system. If you look it up on Amazon or other UA-cam videos for the Fuji system you will find it! I highly recommend it. 👍🏻
Your videos remind me of another woodworking UA-camr Burbonmoth. Enjoying your videos so far. Great job!
Thanks for the positive feedback! I’ve got plenty more coming 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks you are one bourbon bottle in a video away from a total BourbonMoth vibe. Really enjoy your videos so far, and looking forward to more!
A lot of people here are not looking for instructions on how to actually paint cabinets, but to just watch this thing coming together. That's why details, like all those multiple coats, closeups of the surface before sanding and after, could be very jucy for us. Especially closeups. But thanks for the vid.
Great video! I see you spray flat - have you seen the Pivot Point and Pivot Line from Guffey Systems? GAME CHANGER !!!
Do you reply to comments? I have a question…
It’s hard to get everybody but I try! What you got??
Thanks man, I’ll make it quick, can you spray “cover spray”from zinsser using an HVLP? If so what tip you recommend? it’s an oil base primer , on the can it says not to thin it,
@@21gonza21I’ll respond for you. You can spray anything you want via hvlp. Get yourself a cup to measure the viscosity. Then look at your hvlp manual. It should have a tip and viscosity guide. I have an Apollo 7700 ran off of an air compressor, you can run it off of a turbine but I like the additional control. My largest tip is a 2.2. The ability to spray the coating is limited to how much air you have to work with. This is also why you see him spraying the emerald with his airless because he uses a turbine instead of an air compressor. If you don’t have a larger tip and struggle to get heavier coatings out, run a separate regulator for the cup to increase the pressure or use a 2 quart remote pressure pot. If it doesn’t atomize enough, add more air. Once you get over 10psi cup pressure, it’s no longer considered high pressure low volume and considered a high pressure high volume similar to a conventional sprayer. Also, You can thin oil based but due to the EPA it is illegal and they will send the ATF to shoot your dog or something like that so the manufacturers don’t want their dog or your dog dead so they have to print do not thin.
I used to get the small bottles with applicator tips for doing hair from salons for doing glazing in door profiles before the amazing glaze came out, they worked pretty well if you are glazing with liquid glaze vs spraying and wiping it. How big is your opening for your top drawer? It looks a bit bigger than what I'm used to seeing which is about 5" or so. Anyway, thanks for the vid and the tip about starting the airless below the cabinets is great because I have tried spraying flat pieces side to side and you are right you do occasionally get that little sputter or drip which is frustrating. Cheers!
You remind me of the Jase Robertson of Duck Dynasty 😂 that’s a compliment!
Do you have a door and drawer/false front video?
Gonna do a video on that as well! Stay tuned👍🏻