Long story short... A video on installation would be really cool... I do understand the benefits of this idea. I would even do it on a Ford Focus for fun and for gain.
The Luberfiner is getting rare on trucks. It was common to see Luberfiners on over the road trucks. Some were chrome plated and had a Peterbilt decal on them. Then you only saw them on dump trucks and other trucks operating under dirty conditions.. at one time they used cotton waste. The later 750 cartridges like WIX Fleetguard and Luberfiner went to pulverized newspapers and wood chips. Worked for a company that wouldnt put a truck on the road until a Luberfiner was installed. They were nasty to change.most people dont understand the importance of clean oil. When they started putting full flow filters on trucks people thought they cleaned oil as good as the big filters.The big luberfiners ended up out behind the shop.I think the last big Cummins Fleet Guard 750s I bought were inexpensive. The International truck dealer I got them from passed away. So did my discount. I still have a Fleetguard 500. Its about half the size of the 750. The big Gulf Coast filters clean better. They aint cheap.
They are all different. It takes someone that can look things over and decide where to put the filter and where to get pressure and return the clean oil.. I just bought a Ford Diesel tractor that needs to be restored. Was looking for some parts ive been hoarding. Right there collecting dust was a flat head Ford V8 canaster filter. I converted it to take a roll of Scott 1000 and installed it on the tractor. Using a Perma Cool universal sandwich adapter that I got from JEGS years ago. Couldnt find a old Frantz 2 port that fit.
I remember when I worked at a Mobil station these were popular in the early 80s, especially when Mobile 1 was the rage with their 25k interval that USE to be printed on the bottle. Mobil had a training class about Mobil 1. They said since the dirt doesn't bind to synthetic molecules as conventional oil does, in theory if you could keep the oil perfectly filtered the oil wouldn't need changing. You would just add an additive package. Since oe filtration is horrible, you must change it. I had many customers that ran Mobil 1 for 20k miles and changed the filter only every 5k. Never a problem. The only induced oil problems I ever had was using slick 50 in the 80s. It would build up a slime layer that could block oil passages as in camshaft oil holes and if had to rebuild a Slick 50 engine, the rebuilder would hate it b/c it makes the boring machine walk the cylinder. Don't get me started about the Arco graphite oil that no seals could contain.
My grandfather used a Frantz filter on his 1969 F250 with a 360 v8 engine that he purchased new. He never removed the drain plug but every 6000 miles he removed the paper roll and added enough new oil to maintain a full level. In 1989 I inherited that truck. The oil was clear, and looked like it just came out of the can. I continued with granddads practice and drove that truck for another 20 years. Vehicle had a valve job at 180,000 miles and lower end was not opened since new. At 300k+ miles my son in law broke an oil line to the filter and continued to drive and shortly thereafter seizing the engine. On teardown the engine looked as clean as a factory new engine. Decided to get a later model truck and sold the truck to a dismantler. I miss my Frantz filtering system even though I had to use a home made adapter because over the years the size of the toilet paper inner tube got bigger (less paper on the roll). Didn't realize that the system was still available and will order it for my current vehicles. For those who say you cannot do what we did because the additives wear out must remember that a new quart was added every 6 k plus grandpa used Marvel mystery oil along with the new quart. And yes I have been a mechanic and taught mechanics for many years.
Out in California I bought Motor Guard filters from a guy that had his drain plug welded on to demonstrate that he didnt need to drain the oil. He had a habit of pulling the Motor Guard off and trading the Pontiac in on a new car at about 100.000 miles. Can you imagine some guy going to change the oil and the drain plug is welded on.
My 76 F250 Ranger has the 390. Had some gasket leaks. Decided to overhaul the engine. Saw there was nothing wrong with it. No ridge on the cylinders cleaned the valves and tops of the pistons and put it back together. Yes the Toilet paper changed Frantz didnt I bought a Australian Jackmaster Classic. It has a 2 inch core seal. There is no tube to put a spacer on. They use the TP core as a center tube. You just push the TP down against the seal and put on the lid..They have an optional air fitting to push out the excess oil so there is no spillage. They use a hand air pump..
It was a piece of cake putting a Frantz on a new or well maintained engine. If you are a Frantz dealer and are unlucky enough to put a Frantz or other TP filter on a neglected sludged up engine you are in a heap of trouble. Told my uncle we can open up the engine and clean the engine or change the Frantz every 50 miles.He traded the 59 ford in on a new Dodge pickup. We put the Frantz on the pickup. Not so much of a problem these days.I was reminded of the useless filter I put on my dads 51 Pontiac. It filled with sludge.and quit working. Dont go to any more family reunions.
I changed the Frantz every 2.000 miles in the 60s. The Jackmaster Classic I change every 6.000 miles with 10 W /30 these days with synthetic. The old Ford diesel tractor will bea challenge. I seldom get the oil up to operating temperature. It has a flat head Ford V8 canister filter that uses Scott 1000. It uses a oil cooler sandwich adapter. Perma Cool universal from JEGS.
Brian, your videos helped me a lot this weekend! I converted my 98 impreza GF8 hatch rear brakes from drums to discs and had to check a couple things here and there and your subaru videos were very handy indeed! Capturing the whole process from start to finish with the extra details and thought process you show is exactly what I needed. Keep up the great work and always looking forward to more useful videos! :) (PS, I love how some subaru parts are just so easily interchangable!)
Well as far as I know it's the additive package in the oil that gets depleted over time that is the major concern not just particulate . This filter does not address this and expending the oil change interval is something I would not do. Might be of use for some but for me I just change the oil more frequently. Nice review Brian.
Hey Steve, when the Frantz filter element is changed about 1 quart/liter fresh makeup oil is added that helps restore the additives. Same thing occurs when the factory filter/element is changed. The used oil laboratory analysis shows how well the system works, the condition of the additives package and the presence/quantity of any contaminates including any wear metals.
+patw52pb1 It seems all the manufactures have gone to longer oil change intervals and from what I hear from the guys that changes engines weekly they say it the extended oil changes that are the result. In North America the oil is relatively cheap compared to other parts and it's great for them but for me it's the same old 3 months or 5000 km . I guess I'm set in my ways LOL Nice to see you buddy Cheers
Was talking about a Series 60 Detroit 425 HP engine that gets no oil drains.Road King magazine asked for the truck owners phone number. They did an article on it. Its the same system as the Frantz except instead of 1 quart of new make up oil added the double paper towel Gulf Coast filter needs 3 gallons of new Rotella. When the two full flow filters are also changed its 5.5 gallons of new Rotella.added. about every 250 K miles it is torn down and Shell oil measures the parts. It is reasembled and the used oil is poured back in. With Shell oil it will get a lot of oil analysis. At a million miles one engineer said it is not unusual for these Detroits to go a million miles but not be in near new condition.
Saw an episode of "Garage Squad" on Velocity channel. They had an old Datsun 240 Z that they were bringing back to life, and the engine bay had this same type of toilet paper oil filter. Never saw that before! Cool stuff!
Saw that Garage Squad. They had drank the Cool aid. The toilet paper breaks down and blows the engine. The bull shit stories always come with toilet paper filters. The filter companies would like to eliminate the term toilet paper filters. It wont work .They will always be toilet paper filters. They have never been beat. The Frantz has probably been on the Z since the Z has been new. We got to get it off before it ruins the engine.LOL.
Ive used toilet paper filters for 60 years starting with a Frantz. Everything I own with an oil pump has a toilet paper filter including riding mowers. I prefer the top loaders.They are the easiest to service. I recently bought a Australian Jackmaster from Ebay. These days you can pay 30 dollars and more for elements for these filters. I am a highly skilled journeyman toilet paper squeezer. Ive been using Great Value 1000 from Walmart in mine. The Jackmaster Classic has a bigger core seal for the bigger core toilet paper. Or you can use 30 dollar elements that they claim are better than toilet paper. Ive heard claims of submicronic up to 2 microns for TP.. Pretty sure Scott 1000 or Great Value 1000 can beat 5 microns. The 30 dollar elements can get down to at least 1 microns. It takes at least 3 microns.
Frantz isnt the best. Stuck with that obsolete design and got left behind. The Australian Jackmaster is the best in production. You push the TP in and put on the lid.. The Austrailians have a larger seal for the larger TP cores.About the only element that fits the Frantz is the Frantz elements. The Jackmaster Classic has fabric covered elements but they set up the filters with a larger seal so we can use the larger core TP.. I see they are less expensive on Ebay than I paid for mine. Actually the Gulf Coast junior is as good as the Jackmaster as far as being easy to service. The Jackmaster Classic is die cast aluminum. The Gulf Coast junior is glass filled nylon.. Not sure they still make them. Saw some Jackmaster Classic elements for about the same price as the Frantz elements. Of course you have the shipping cost from Australia.
The cost is nothing compared to what they can save you in a lifetime. My 76 F 250 has a 50 year old Motor Guard. The Gulf Coast junior on the ATF is about 20 years old.
These products are great and I always advise people not to use cheap oil filters or cheap oil but DO NOT use them to extend your oil change intervals. The reason you need to change your oil is not just because of the contaminants. Yes that is a big reason but the additives in the oil (pour point depressants, dispersants, stabilizers etc) break down with use and the viscosity of the oil also thins. No filtration system will prevent this or even slow the process down. Yes, filter your oil well but do not exceed your manufacturers recommendation for oil change intervals or you are doing your vehicle a disservice.
Best comment so far. Having as clean oil as possible until the next change will probably do wonders. I also do not believe it's extended drain interval approved at all. I'm pretty interested using this on an A/T that doesn't have any filters in them. Or would that filter away clutch material and cause slippage?
Finally someone with common sense that knows how engine oil works. Sad I had to read down this far to find it. Use one of these to keep your oil clean but don't ruin your engine by basing your oil changes off how clean your oil looks. For me as a mechanic, I would doubt your wear parts are going to look that much different at 300k miles then they would on any other well maintained engine. Most wear occurs at startup before the oil film is established. There is really no good way I know of to control that. When you shut your engine off the crank literally settles down on the bearing and the two surfaces touch. When you first hit your starter in the morning there is a very small moment when metal rubs metal. Then the oil film is established and no metal should be touching metal. Another thing to consider is the oil filter bypass. I believe this oil filter bypass causes more wear than any other single thing. When cold much oil can be bypassing the filter entirely. Most people don't realize this can happen but it does more often then it should in my opinion. It is the ONLY way larger pieces of debri big enough to cause a scratch on a bearing can get through the filter. Every rebuild I do shows the bearings with some pretty decent scratches in them.
Doing something like this to an automatic transmission would definitely help it last longer. A healthy transmission DOES NOT need worn off clutch material particles in the fluid to not slip. Contaminants in the fluid doesn't do anything any good. If the transmission starts to slip after installing one of these filters, it was about to fail anyway. HOWEVER, if you want to run one of these filters on a transmission, DO NOT run it in series with the cooler. A filter like this is too restrictive to be run in series, and it won't allow enough fluid flow, which will cause problems.
Your Motor Guard compressed air filter started in San Jose California as a toilet paper lube oil filter.Cummins Fleet Guard 750 bypass filters used to use chopped. Newspapers and wood chips in their best elements. Wix and some others made elements for them and Luber Finers. Don't know what they have now. Its been a long time since I serviced the big engines. I have seen Frantz three stackers on some heavy trucks. They were a mess to change but very effective.
$350 for a filter kit. That's crazy! I was interested until I saw the price. Just think how much oil we could have saved this planet if car manufacturers starting putting this on all vehicles since 1953!
Don't lookup a Luber Finer 750 bypass system, you will have a coronary the replacement filter element is over $300 USD and gets changed about every 16-20K miles. Complete system runs about $1000.
Im a filter guy.many years ago I cut open a Luberfiner element to see what was in it. It was cotton waste with a few cotton twigs. I bought a WIX 750 element to see what was in it. It was pulverized newspapers and wood chips. The Fleetguard and Luberfiners are the same. At one time Cummins claimed a 80 % engine life increase with a Cummins Fleetguard 750. At one Time Gulf Coast filters used Bounty big roll paper towels.Not sure what they use now. A lot of them on locomotive engines on off shore rigs. Over the road trucks with a million miles with no oil drains. Dont remember what I paid for the Wix 750 to see what was inside it. I wouldnt pay 300 bucks i probably paid less than20 bucks at O Reileys. I have bought Fleetguard 750s from a International dealer with the elementfor about 200 bucks. A long time ago. I dont think you can get cotton elements now.. I had a Mazda diesel pickup once. It came factory equipped with a almost useless pleated paper bypass filter..I tossed it and put on a Frantz. Sold it to a Hispanic guy he was happy to get the Frantz. Told him I would put the Mazda filter back on. He said hell no I could keep it. He knew about the Frantz. I think I still have the Mazda filter like a lot of other junk. Probably a good idea to remove the Frantz before putting the add in the paper.
I remember selling Frantzs for 29.95. It was hell boy I can buy a real filter like came on the car for 2 dollars. Sold a Frantz to a well known dragster owner in the San Jose California area. I would say I put a Frantz on Joe Davies tow truck. The Frantzs got easier to sell. Not sure Joe Davis would apreciate that. Before I left California I put a Motor Guard on his Plymouth Fury. Chevrolet sponsored him. It was a Mustang Dragster.. Chevy engine with a Chrysler transmission He liked Torque Flites. I used a Frantz adapter that eliminated the full flow filter on the Chevy Suburban.with the 292 big 6. When I left California it had about 300.000 miles with no oil changes. highway miles.pulling the dragster. Standard Delo 20 winter grade. I told him to use 30 wt. He got Baldwin filters and Valvoline free. He used Standard Delo because he wanted his oil to look like mine.Delo was. A beutiful oil when clean. He was using Standard Special. It had a dark tint to it. He was bitching. Frantz said drain the special and put in Delo. The special has an ashless additive that turns dark. He was a perfectionist from hell.
I don't drain oil .I started using the Frantz in 1963. I was using Standard Delo 100 30 wt. Engines were a lot dirtier in those days. I was changing the Frantz every 2000 k and adding a qt of oil.What happens to me was an older Standard oil employee explained to me if I used a Frantz and Delo my engine wouldn't wear out and I wouldn't need to change the oil. The thing was to change the Frantz. and add enough new oil to keep the oil clean and the additive package up to specs.When I saw my Delo turn from black to gold there was no need to waste money on oil analysis. I was hooked. I liked the Motor Guard better but the Motor Guard oil filters were discontinued in the 70s. I just put a. M 60 on a Subaru transmission. 2. M 30s on the engine and transmission on a Pontiac Torrant. I am trying the Pennzoil Platinum on the Pontiac. The 93 Subaru still uses the conventional oil. My 84 Subaru did very well on Mobil 1. I only have 40 k on the Smart car with the Pennzoil. It looks like it will do fine with 7 k filter changes.
John Frantz got his start adapting the old canister filters to use superior toilet paper.. I just adapted a Stock Ford canister filter for a V8 flat head Ford to use Scott 1000 TP. It went on my 79 Ford 1900 diesel tractor. A Ford filter should go on a Ford. Bought the tractor as a project. Started with a superior oil filter. Used a Perma Cool universal sandwich adapter that is normally a oil cooler adapter. Not sure Frantz still makes 2 port sandwich adapters for motor oil..I think I got lucky. The full flow filter had nothing big in the pleats when I cut it open.The Perma Cool universal sandwich adapter is for oil coolers. Work the same for bypass filters. Only fit small filters. Got it from JEGS years ago. It has two ports for pressure and return. Used one for the diesel tractor. The flat head Ford V8 filter heated up today. The Scott 1000 was a perfect fit. The Ford canister filter is a little larger than a Frantz. Instead of the clean oil going to the fill cap it goes to the inlet of the full flow filter. The Sandwich adapter must use 3/4 16 thread full flow filter such as most Fords. I had a Fram Tough Guard on the shelf. I think the canister filter was optional equipment.on the Ford. The best element was cotton.
I was removing 30 rounds from the Great Value 1000 from Walmart to fit my filters. The Last I bought was the same size as what we used in the 60s.and the core was larger.with my filters I just slid in the TP and put on the top.The old 50 year old Motor Guards were bad about pinching the last sheet.Not with the new Great value. The last sheet is glued. The Motor Guard elements are taped. Was reading that they are making the roll smaller and the core larger to save paper Always a toilet paper joke.
It was easy in the 60s. Lots of room under the hood. I did a few Lincolns. They were a packed suitcase but I could squeeze in a Frantz. That clamp could be a problem. I went with the top loaders in the 80s. The Australian Jackmaster Classic is good when you are in tight places. It is better suited for using toilet paper. The Frantz is set up for the Frantz elements. The Australian Jackmaster Classic elements are about 20 dollars. I use Great Value 1000 from Walmart in mine.
thanks man-what are you going to put that frantz oil filter on/good to have super clean oil all the time/an keep the engine from almost no wear from contaminents/a very good idea/thanks much
Slight correction needs to be made to this video. People need to be careful as this video might be slightly misleading. People need to still change their oil as recommended by the manufacturer. The reason for this is because you can deplete the oil additives your engine needs and still have clean looking oil. The oil might look clean but it no longer is protecting your engine like it should. The only way to know whether you have depleted the additive package is to send your oil in for regular testing.
Or, like the title of the video says, use synthetic. Long life synthetics have longer lasting additive packages, and since you're changing your filter regularly and adding oil each time, you're contributing to the additive package.
I stopped draining the oil 60 years ago.Additives last a lot longer in clean oil. When you change the filter you add new make up oil. Some of these new cars run so clean the main reason you need to change the filter is to keep the additives up to specs Instead of spending money on oil analysis I can change the filter more often and add more make up oil. Nothing Brian said is misleading. I wouldnt call about 1 quart of analytically clean oil going to the oil pan a minute a trickle of oil. Thats about 60 quarts of oil a day being cleaned in my Pontiac. To me that means no oil changes and virtually no engine wear. Brian is wasting his time. Most people think engines will last longer if the oil is allowed to get dirty and be drained. The oil changers dont recommend Frantz oil cleaners or any filters that clean oil.
One guy said he isnt going to put a 99 cent filter on his expensive pickup. At one time Gulf Coast Filters of Gulfport Mississippi installed Frantz 3 stackers on offshore drilling rig engines. These are locomotive engines and generators. Not sure when the famous Frantz 3 stackers went out of production or how much a locomotive engine cost. Might be even more than a Cummins in a pickup. You can still find Frantz 3 stackers on big marine engines. Mostly been replaced by the Gulf Coast filters which are easier to service.
Interesting idea. My first instinct was the concern about reduced flow from clogging, but because it's a bypass filter that is no issue. I'm glad you mentioned the fact you weren't compensated. These days, when authors don't mention it, I assume they were paid.
You mean if you sell the filters your experience means nothing. Dont sell them now . Getting old.. I probably know more about TP filters than most anyone.Never had much interest in filters that dont clean oil.
Brilliant, I think you forgot to factor in the convenience. Less mess, less fuss. And the big bonus, a cleaner running engine. It pays for itself in about 3 years & will save me about $80 a year thereafter. Pretty sweet.
Well said Larry, well said. I spent days preparing and studying for this video, but in the end, you can only make it so long and people still miss 60% of it anyway.
A guy on another forum said the Frantz worked good on his 59 Ford truck. He probably wouldnt use one now but he wouldnt bad mouth the Frantz. I cant imagine the nuisance of changing the oil. I normally like to put the orifice at the inlet so it will drain better at shut down. At least one hose needs to allow air to enter the filter so the oil can go back to the engine at shut down.. Cant have a low place where oil can keep the air from entering..I will probably put the orifice at the inlet on the Jackmaster Classic. It will drain better with the orifice at the inlet.It works better if air can enter the filter thru the return hose at shut down.
I put a .025 wire welder tip in a brass fitting and put it in the inlet. It drains good at shut down without air. Ive bought Frantzs with the orifice at the outlet under the screens. I believe the new ones are at the inlet. The Motor Guard on my old Ford 390 is over 50 years old. I would say it has paid for itself.
When I got back from town yesterday I checked my Australian Jackmaster Classic. It was hot and the oil is Golden. Sometimes when the weather is cold the toilet paper filters are just starting to warm up when I get to work with the .060 orifice.Dont know how the .025 orifice will work in cold weather. This is the Dallas Texas area. The Jackmaster Classic with the .025 orifice cleans about 3/4 quart a minute when the oil is hot. 10 w/30 synthetic. The orifice is a .025 wire welder tip in a brass fitting. The slower the flow the better the cleaning.
The .025 wire welder tip is actually about .045 . The standard size since the 1920s for bypass filters is about .060 or about 1/16 inch. I believe the big Gulf Coast 3 gallon filter has a 1/16 inch orifice at the inlet.
yup 2 microns are what we cleaned hydaulic oil to! the 2 year i worked therre we never changed it! still awesome oil!used it to fix a noicy servopump in a tempra ,2 changes late and 4 days in all ,no sounds and a perfectly working pump! sorry we cant use these filters here!!
Most people dont understand bypass filters and wont learn. I was putting a Frantz on a new 63 Dodge pickup. His brother drove up. He said if I knew you wanted a Frantz I would have given you mine. My oil is dirty and my lifters are noisy. He wss asked when he changed the Frantz last. He said change it The guy I bought it from said it would last a lifetime. The Frantz went on his brothers car.
Not an expert on additives. When a sample of oil is analyzed you get a list of additives still in the oil. Dont use a oil that uses solids like Graphite.In the old days we had Arco Graphite. The Frantz removed it. No one told the Frantz to leave it in it was a good lubricant.The Frantz thought it was an abrasive. Of course the full flow filter couldnt take it out. TP cant take out the liquid additives also some diesel soot is non abrasive and too small to be filtered out. Its like ink. Black oil means nothing in a diesel.
Its not only additives. They can tell if something is wearing out. They know what the parts are made of. They know if the bearings are worn down to the copper. I got so used to amber colored oil in the gasoline engines I was shocked to see oil in the diesel that looked like someone poured ink in it. Lab analysis might tell you the dark oil is cleaner than when it was new. There was a time when I thought new oil was always clean.
Im sure oil filter companies can design their off-the-shelf filters as good as that kit, but the truth is: the economy needs to keep flowing. They need consumers to buy products as frequent as possible. Love your videos, you're awesome. My week would feel weird if i didn't follow up with ur channel
I met a French dude who was visiting the desert with his wife for a month. I asked how he could afford to do that and he said he gets like two months paid vacation. My mind was blown! My mind was further blown by how NICE and HIGH QUALITY his gear was. It was SO NICE! Not the Wallmart Ozark trail garbage you get here. What I would like to see is a general slowing down of throw-away products and the huge race to cut, mine, burn, and melt resources as fast as possible and get them co-mingled and into the landfill and ocean as fast as humanly possible. How about products that last? How about working 30 hours a week instead of 50? If you do both- your quality of life is just at good. The reason for garbage bound products is the nickels that happen in the movement or sale of goods with a short product life cycle. That's nickels the consumer is losing every time they buy to taxes, shipping, warehousing, packaging-(SO WASTEFUL!), marketing, and sales. If you buy one nice fishing pole for $160 you'll enjoy it more and spend less than buying 20 of them for $20 each in your lifetime that break, fail, let you down, ruin your trip, etc. for $400. It takes more time at work not fishing to make $400 than it does to make $160.
You're exactly right. It just isn't necessary either. Tiny contaminants take time to produce with starting in the cold, driving in the heat and just lots of miles. This filter can remove in 200 miles what takes 7,000 miles to produce. So the by-pass concept is more than adequate and you keep your factory filter.
Its clear from the haters leaving comments to debunk your Frantz Filter system. These people do not understand cause & effect as it relates to solid particles in your lubricant. Studies show that removing tiny particles, the wear is eliminated. This also extends the life of additives in the fluid.. I have this same unit on my diesel and it saved the engine from vandals. I put a Wix 51269 filter on an automatic transmission cooler line and had the same results, it polished the solid particles out of the fluid w/o replacing the transmission.. The particle count on my (diesel) engine oil was reduced from 18/17/14 to 16/15/12 by using the Frantz, changing the oil did not purge the contamination from the oil cooler.. Nearly all commercial vehicles have some type of bypass system to clean the oil by removing abrasive soot, the systems are also OEM due to warranty claims. Automakers want to sell new vehicles and demand this technology is pointless, Dodge will argue aftermarket add-ons void the warranty LOL!
Ive read letters from makers of heavy duty engines that said pretty much if you put a non stock item and it causes engine damage they wont pay for the damage. My guess is if you put a non stock full flow filter and it causes damage they wont cover it.. This could be the wrong oil a power chip. Exhaust brake. Many truckers have a oil analysis program and can prove the extended oil changes didnt cause problems. Big engine makers understand bypass filters. Remember the big bypass filters. Cummins used to claim a 80 % increase in engine life using the big Fleetguard bypass filters.Their 750 filters use pulverized newspapers and wood chips.
My 64 Rambler American had a spin on bypass filter bolted to the flat head 6. The oil was always dirty and black. I tossed it and installed a Frantz. The oil turned golden. Had the same junky assed bypass filter on a Mazda early 80s diesel. Installed a Frantz to clean the oil. Its like they dont want you to have clean oil. They wont get away from using pleated filters that have no value at cleaning oil.
If you are over the oil change recommendations and your oil is dirty. That is a lot different than being over the oil change recommendations and your oil is clean and you can prove it with an oil analysis program. I think one reason the big Gulf Coast filters can filter as good as toiler paper is the orifice is the same size as the TP filters. The oil soaks down thru the big paper towels. The oil pressure pushes the oil thru the TP. Charmin would filter as good as Scott 1000 if I could use a small enough orifice. 1/16 inch has been pretty much standard since the 1920s for bypass filters.
I put a .025 wire welder tip in a brass fitting and put it in the inlet of the Australian Jackmaster Classic. The slower the flow the cleaner the oil. Most TP filters use about a ..060 orifice. The Jackmaster Classic cleans about 3/4 quart a minute when the oil is hot. Might not work in cold weather short trips.
I just put a Motor Guard M 30 on. lube. oil and a M 60 on on the tranny. 2006 Nissan Altima. Not much room under the hood. I removed the grill and installed the 2 filters. Then put the grill back on. Easy on this car. I stuck a 1/8 drill into the outlet and drilled a relief in case the TP gets clogged. These are compressed air filters that I tossed into engine cleaner to remove the epoxy coating. I left the coating on the Pontiac Torrant. For some reason every 100 or so the epoxy will turn loose of the aluminum. It wont dissolve. They do the same.with compressed air I used a Perma Cool sandwich adapter for the engine. I doesn't matter which toilet paper filter you use.as long as the housing maker the oil go thru the paper instead around it. Motor Guard was the best at that. Not so important with lube oil bypass filters. Very important with compressed air and fuel. With those there is no second chance. I got my start with. Frantz. in 1963. They were 29.95 and people complained about the price.
I was a mechanic for Safety Kleen corporation. I had oil filters on everything. Gulf Coast filters on the fork trucks. Big Gulf Coast paper towel filters on the hydraulic systems and the yard tractors. Motor Guards on the instrument air. And Sky tracks. The only trouble I had with the Gulf Coast juniors is the captive nut in the glass filled nylon couldnt be tightened enough. Instead of putting in a thru bolt and flat washers I would go by and push the filters upright. I also had Motor Guards on the big air compressor lube oil. The special compressor oil was high dollar. The Nylon Gulf Coast filters took a beating on the lift trucks No springs and hard rubber tires.
Just noticed the Gulf Coast junior is laying down on the Farmall. H. Putting the captive nut in the nylon is a minor nuisance. A longer bolt and using 2 wrenches will fix that. Other than that its a perfect filter. Its the Hydraulic system filter. Dont matter what position its in. The Gulf Coast juniorc on the Gasoline on the F250 and the Farmall are upside down on the frame..
My dad used to use these on his commercial fishing boat and swore by them. Now that I think about it, I can't see why he doesn't have them on the current engines.
A Frantz dealer in Gulfport Mississippi put a lot of Frantz 3 stackers on shrimp boats and such. At some point the 3 stackers went out of production. Good filter for diesels but a mess to change.
The Frantz dealer in Gulfport Mississippi replaced the big Frantzs with bigger paper towel filters. He improved the little filters. I dont know how many times Frantz went broke. We also lost the FAA and PMA approved AeroFrantz. I believe Frantz had a 2 stacker a 3 stacker and a 4 stacker. Its a tough business . Most people think allowing the oil to get dirty then draining it is proper maintenance. Then you have the bull shit stories that come with toilet paper filters.
I use the one you have on.your compressed air the Motor Guard. The name Motor Guard didnt come from compressed air filtering. They dropped the Lube oil filters years ago. When Frantz went broke years ago one of their dealers came out with an improved filter. They all do an excellent job of cleaning oil. The Gulf Coast is by far the easiest to service. NASA is using the filters now. A NASA engineer said these filters are only for industrial use. The car owner doesnt keep a car long enough to make it pay. We old timers got our start using Frantz. I notice the element is too loose in the housing. You have to be at least 80 with no teeth to know how to service a Frantz. I have a few Gulf Coast filters. Sister wrecked the old Impala. My last two Frantzs went to a salvage somewhere in Dallas tx. At one time in California you could find Frantzs on wrecked cars for about 10 bucks.
Ralph please make a conversion kit for the new motor guards. I really want to have one for my truck since it has a better clamping force and seal on the paper. I will be your first customer.
I dont do oil filters anymore. I recently bought a Australian Jackmaster Classic from Ebay. It is as good as the Motor Guard. They designed the Jackmaster to take tightly wound TP or their own elements. They have a larger seal at the bottom for 1 1/2 inch or larger TP cores. You just push in the TP and put on the lid. They dont have a center tube like the Frantz to put a spacer on. The TP core is the center tube .. The Frantz has been obsolete since Motor Guard came out in 1961. Jackmaster has been around since 1954 but I didnt check them out until recently. I got the Classic. The more expensive Ultra is suspiciously like the Triple R. They have all struggled over the years. Almost everyone thinks proper maintenance is allowing lubricants to get dirty and draining them. I paid 29.95 for my first Frantz and used Standard Delo 30 weight in 1963. Motor Guard came out in 1961. They came out with a compressed air filter and later dropped the lube oil filter. A Frantz dealer came out with a improved filter and replaced the Frantz 3 stacker with a Bounty big roll paper towel filter at some point when Frantz went broke. At some point the AeroFrantz was dropped. Saw some on crop dusters in the early 80s. There were no Frantz elements in the old days.We used 2 ply facial quality toilet paper. Single ply was loose wound crap. A lot of bull shit stories and jokes came with toilet paper.They are all trying to get away from being called toilet paper filters. John Frantz wanted a filter material better than anything else that was economical. That was a mistake. He didnt count on the liars and fools.
@@markm0000 I was getting the Motor Guards for about 75 bucks and converting them to use TP. Saw one for 175 bucks. You can get a Jackmaster for that that is already set up for TP.
@@ralphwood8818 I tried finding someone to make adapters for the motor guard but it was going to be way too expensive and I gave up. I have no means of making them myself even if I bought equipment. I will look for a Jackmaster and use that on my cars and trucks. It seems to be reasonably priced and has a better design than the Frantz. Thanks Ralph.
@@ralphwood8818 Hello again Ralph, I hope you are doing well. I checked online again for the Classic, but prices sure have gone up since my last comment. I like the design better how it doesn't rely on a tight center tube for fitment, as the roll dimensions can change a little over time. I like that it's also designed with components to handle hot oil. I bought a new style MotorGuard since that last comment to see it in person, and just couldn't figure out how to make it without spending a fortune. It's been sitting on the shelf in the box and I guess it's best to install it on my air compressor where it belongs. I wasted that money when I could have bought the right thing in the first place. The saying goes, buy once, cry once, buy twice, pay the price. It's funny to think the Frantz is a subpar design but because of the marketing and social media videos it's become the most popular. Thanks for testing all the different models from all those brands over the years to find the best canister design and share that advice to the internet.
Hello, I'm considering installing one of these systems in my vehicle (2008 caravan 3.3 v6) however, one concern I have is how well will this filter perform under cold weather conditions? I live in Michigan, and this season we've endoured many consistant days of negative sub-zero temperatures.... Alternately will the tp filter freeze solid such that it impedes the flow \ circulation of oil durring cold morning warm-up?
I'm not a huge scientist but an HVAC mechanic and 1 micron filter in any vehicle I would assume is a pretty big restriction on oil flow. Maybe because there's only a small amount of oil entering the canister that doesn't apply.... sorry racking my brain
I think you can have a very small 1 micron filter that has a surface area of 1 micron just like you can have a very large 1 micron filter that has a much bigger surface area. I think for an equal flow, the finer the filtering the bigger the filter.
Since theyre a bypass filter and not the primary filter it wouldnt cause an issue. Your oem filter functions normally. There's a pretty steady stream of oil that comes back through my return line after the Frantz so I dont think it restricts too much
Some of it always will be, the bypass filter filters a portion of the oil, removing the preponderance of the particles. Statistically, there are none, but occasionally a couple might get through the engine before being picked up by the bypass filter.
That's why it's called a BYPASS filter and not a full flow filter. The way this works is simple, you normal full flow filter operates as always, it keeps 40-60psi oil flow at that as normal all that other filter gets is overflow pressure so way lower pressure as it goes through that filter, it's dumping it back into the oil pan. Even if that filter clogs up, it will NOT restrict you full flow path...
I remember those filters back in the 50's. a friend of mine swore by the system, but there were some that were faulty the toilet paper broke down and was allowed to pass threw the engine causing extensive damage. you must be careful using toilet paper because not all are cellulose if that would make a difference.
There has never been any toilet paper that caused engine damage. Paper doesnt break down in oil. It only gets stronger. I started in 1963 with a Frantz oil cleaner and Delo 100 W30. I thought Delo 400 replaced Delo 100. You can still find Delo 100 on line. I think it is only single grade for diesels. Beautiful oil when clean. It dont sell for 55 cents a quart now.
We used 2 ply long before we had Scott 1000 or Frantz elements. It was softer but it had the 1 1/2 inch core. You could normally use the whole roll if you knew how to get it in. Any 2 ply was good.
If you don't install the TP properly and change it out every 3000 miles you might have problems. But if you do it right you will have the best cost effective oil filtration possible other then a centrifuge.
The Frantz is a good filter. They arent set up for the newer paper. You can use it if you know how. My Jackmaster Classic you get the diameter right. Push the paper down against the core seal and put on the lid. You must use a firm roll such as Scott 1000 or Great Value 1000 because with soft paper core will collapse. They have no center tube. The Gulf Coast junior is similar. They depend on the bigger core seal at the bottom The only experience ive had was a Honda 305 motor cycle. It had a chain driven centrifuge inside the engine. I knew it was working because it packed the sludge so tight I had to dig it out with a screw driver. I had a Frantz on the Honda 500 custom.
Brian; ran one of the original Frantz oil filters on my 2nd Healey in the 60's. Never seen another since. Didn't know they were available. Warrantee, schwarrantee! Manufactures suck. Did religiously, oil samples on my semi's all the years I owned them. Money well spent (cept the local Cat dealer lost 1 of 3 so i changed labs...)
One of the reason Cat engines are so awesome and last so long is they have some of the best filtration ratings on their filters. I know many Cummins owners that run the Cat fuel filters with adapters.
same for Duramax engines, tons of guys running the 2 micron cat fuel filter. i have also a FASS 150 on my truck and the Donaldson fuel filter is a 2 micron
A big pleated paper filter will beat a little pleated paper filter anytime. The famous Frantz 3 stacker will beat any of them. Especially if you feed it with one orifice instead of three. You can still find them on marine vessels. I saw two on a truck with a 8V 71 Detroit. The guy said he gets a 6 pack of Safeway Truly Fine to service them. That was in the 80s when TP fit The Frantz and was tighter wound.. Now about the only paper that fits the Frantz is the Frantz elements.one mistake people make putting a little TP filter on a diesel is they go too far between filter changes. Shouldnt go over 3.000 miles.4 inches of.filter media is better than pleated paper.but they aint magic. A tightly wound roll of TP is a 1 micron filter. I was putting a Frantz on a Chevy Luv about 40 years ago. I noticed a little Frantz bolted to the frame on his over the road truck. I said that filter is too small for that truck.He said no its not I change it every day. Well excuse me.
The big spin on fuel filters cant compete with the Frantz or other TP filters. Also they tell me they cost about 20 bucks. The orifice helps and the large size helps. Its still pleated paper up against 4 inches of TP. I dont think they can eliminate oil changes like TP. They are pretty much just a full flow filter with an orifice. Like my 64 Rambler flat head 6 that was factory installed. You cant clean oil with pleated paper. Some are putting the big 1 1/2 gallon Gulf Coast filters on the Cat engines. I did a fleet of Navistars. Some of the big Gulf Coast filters had a General Motors part number. When I sold them they used Bounty Big roll paper towels. The ports were different on the GM filters for mid sized GM trucks. A little trivia for you.
I once used a paper towel system on my big rig. To answer some questions about dissolving paper, only if you are getting water in your oil. If you want to use a off the shelf TP make sure it is lint free(dust free) as possible.
The oil protects the toilet paper from water. If your tp gets soggy or gets cracks in it it means water. Normally dont have a water problem unless you arent driving enough at operating temperature for the PCV to remove the condensation or the oil is getting coolant in it.
One time I noticed the oil was getting milky on the Rambler. That means water. I drained the oil and changed the oil and the toilet paper. With water the toilet paper will feel soggy.
I converted a flat head Ford V8 canister filter to use a roll of Scott 1000. The other day I removed the spacer and put half a roll of paper towels in it. I like the VIVA in the Ford diesel tractor. If Gulf Coast filters can use paper towels on heavy duty diesels I should do fine with my little Ford diesel. I might cut a roll of VIVA for the Jackmaster Classic on the Pontiac. I can mark a roll and go around a few times with a fine toothed hack saw.
Im not as smart as some of these geniuses that know about molecular sizes. I let the oil companies worry about that. I try to keep it clean. Since I have some common sense I will put the end I cut up. The only filter I have that filters from the bottom up is the old 60s model Motor Guard on the F250 390 engine.
Found out I can cut the VIVA towels a lot smoother with a sharp knife. Did a fleet of trucks when the 6.0s firdt came out. These were tree service vehicles. The diesels took Gulf Coast 01s bolted to the frame. The gasoline engines took the Gulf Coast juniors. In those days they didnt put the Bounty big rolls or the janitorial supply toilet paper in bags.
Perhaps if used as a bypass filter in conjunction with a primary filter. I did however see a comment that motor oil, if not changed, gets thinner. It most certainly does not the viscosity actually gets thicker. Furthermore an oil change is not required during the warranty period. Under warranty law, if they warranty the internally lubricated parts of the motor for 36,000 miles, the only way they can make you get an oil change, is to offer it to you for free. And some automakers are actually doing that so that they can make you get an oil change. Quite often there is a race that runs from Paris to Hong Kong and these vehicles go over 40,000 miles without an oil change. The automaker's know that an engine will go 36,000 miles without an oil change and frequently a lot further.
Many years ago my uncle told me when he changes the oil in his 59 Ford it uses a quart then doesnt use any more. Actually a quart evaporated.Multi grade oil wasnt any good in those days. Couldnt use it in a diesel. All diesel rated oil was single wt.
I have overheated motor oil by idling all day with the AC on in hot weather. The oil will get thicker as it evaporates. The boss called it road tar. It was more like gear oil. Waiting to cement an oil well for example. Normally the trucks were never shut off all day...i wouldnt do my own cars that way.
Actually synthetic oil doesnt last longer than conventional oil. Oil filters dont make oil last longer. It is a good idea to keep it clean and not burn it up. A guy asked me how long has it been since you changed the oil in your home air conditioner. Good question.The oil is 22 years old.
It's an old technology. It's just harder to charge top dollar for something that everyone is familiar with and can do themselves. Manufacturers hate it.
A realtor in Denton Texas asked me if it was too late to put a Frantz on his Toyota Corolla with near 100 k miles on it. Asked him how long he planned to keep it. He said a long time. I said it needs a Frantz. Years later my wife was introducing me at church. She said mr Biggs this is my husband. He said I remember Ralph. The Corolla has over 500.000 miles on it. Took the boy scouts on a camp out and they found the Frantz elements.
I have read letters from the big heavy duty diesel engine .makers. anything non stock that causes engine damage will void the warranty. This could be a non stock full flow filter. A power chip. A non stock exhaust brake. Not following oil change recommendations. A salesman told a trucker the paper towel filter would void the warranty. The trucker said I will get a truck with a different engine. The salesman said wait a minute I will make a call. He came back and good news. It wont void the warranty. Some truckers dont drain their oil with the paper towel filters. They have an oil analysis program in case there is a warranty problem.
Actually it wouldnt be wise to have engine problems with a non Cummins full flow filter or a power chip. Many truckers wont run on dirty oil in an attempt to keep the warranty good. Clean oil comes first.
Dont know what they have now. I remember when the best oil filter you could get for the Cummins was the Cummins Fleetguard 750 or the Luberfiner 750 They used cotton the same as the bypass filter on my 41 Dodge. Later they went to pulverized newspaper and wood chips. They all hooked up the same as the Frantz. With an orifice and oil lines. I once worked for a company that wouldnt put a truck on the road without a Luberfiner.750.. old guys remember the big chrome plated Luberfiners on the side of the trucks.Same as the Frantz only a lot bigger..Then people started thinking they were only for dirty conditions such as dump trucks. No one liked to service the filters including myself. The TP filters are a piece of cake..
When they tell you anything non stock that causes engine damage isnt covered by the warranty some non thinkers think that means anything non stock causes engine damage. The big engine makers are familiar with big bypass filters. Luberfiner and Fleetguard 750s for example.
You order it for it to be exactly the right size and ready to go. Otherwise some folks use the gas station rolls or Scott 1000 and then unwind about 30 rolls.
J.C.Whitney back in the 60s and 70s sold toilet paper filters for cars, and like this, were replaced by you at a specific interval. I do not know if they still sell TP car/truck filters these days.
I believe JC Whitney sold a filter that screwed on in place of the full flow filter. They used about 1/3 rd of a roll of TP.Because TP is too dense to be a full flow filter a large bypass valve was always open when the engine was running.. It converted the full flow system to a bypass system. Like a Stilco or Trasco. Wouldnt be my choice. About 1965 I converted a race car mechanics Chevy 292 big 6 to a bypass system by using a Frantz oil cleaner and a Frantz adapter plate that replaced the full flow filter. He liked it because he always knew what was happening in the engine by what was showing up on top of the toilet paper. It was the tow rig. The mustang dragster needed a full flow filter. Baldwin furnished that. Valvoline furnished the racing oil.
(haven't read the other comments) but before the warranty is voided, they have to prove that the failure is due to the degradation of the oil (poor quality, lack of timely changing, loss of volume). Think autopsy and death certificate by qualified impartial technician.
Gulf Coast filters of Gulfport Mississippi specializes in heavy duty diesels. They have letters from heavy duty engine makers. Some heavy duty engine owners dont drain oil but they have an oil analysis program to prove that not changing the oil as recommended didnt cause an engine problem. Oil analysis is to check for engine problems not oil problems.
Yes now do a good install video of this Frantz as nobody has a real good one like you would do. I did not see the OEM oil filter adapter they used to sell with this kit which had the exit ports on it and the original oil filter would screw back on the adapter, maybe you shown it here and I missed it or are they reverting back to taping into the oil pan Idea?
You're right and you're in the know! The Cummins engine doesn't need the sandwich adapter because it has oil ports on the filter head you can pull a plug out and put a fitting into.
I still have a few old Frantz two port sandwich adapters.Sure beat tapping the oil pan. No diesel pickups in those days. There was an inlet and outlet . Frantz and Motor Guard also had 3/8 hollow bolts for replacing a intake manifold bolt on many V 8s Some of my lawn mowers have no way to get oil for the TP filters.I usr a Frantz Ford adapter. I put a pipe plug in one port. I only have one Frantz single port adapter. Its for a honda. I once returned the oil to the wrong side of a baffle on a valve cover on a Peugeot diesel. Wife was driving. I said slow this thing down. She said it wont slow down. It was running on motor oil. Got it off the road and stuffed a jacket in the intake. That was dangerous. Should have used a Frantz two port sandwich adapter on that car.or returned the oil closer to the fill cap. I see Jackmaster has two port sandwich adapters. I have used Perma Cool universal sandwich adapters from Jegs. They are for oil coolers..
The 2 port Frantz sandwich adapters didnt work on small engines. They depended on enough oil flow to create a pressure difference. I bought several Perma Cool universal sandwich adapters from Jegs years ago. The reason they work for a bypass filter is because a bypass filter acts like a restricted oil cooler. A spring loaded valve keeps oil going to the engine plus keeps pressure on the bypass filter. The Perma Cool universal has different size bushings to fit most small filter mounts. Only 3/4 16 filters will screw on the sandwich. Many Fords and Toyotas for example. Getting ready to put one on a Briggs and Stratton 22 HP riding mower with a 60s model Motor Guard. Put a Frantz on the gasoline.
I have used toilet paper filters for over 50 years. There are some others that are as good but the elements cost more than an oil change. As a rule of thumb if the element looks like toilet paper it will clean oil. The pleated element bypass filters are all junk. Cotton elements are as good as toilet paper if it is compressed. Not aware of any cotton element filters. available these days.
Just one thing. How do you handle disposal of this toxic stew you are extracting from your motor oil ? Does it go to land fill in your garbage, can it go someplace that incinerates ? You could run it through a burn barrel at home and what a smoke THAT would make. Really good electric cars are a way off yet but I like making my petro powered vehicle run its cleanest. At present I burn the paper products I generate from cleaning up after an oil change and grease jobs. Not as clean a burn as I would like though spritzing alcohol on the fire helps a small bit, much like adding alcohol to gasoline for that bit of cleaner exhaust.
Good question I have a 16 gallon container half full of oil soaked toilet paper. Safety Kleen corporation recycled them for me before I retired. Also have a drum of engine cleaner. Dont mechanic anymore.
You dont need synthetic oil. The Frantz has been around a lot longer than synthetic oil has been common. I started with a Frantz and Delo 100 w 30. Frantz had a lot better clamp in the 80s. It was at an extra cost. The better clamp was standard on the Gulf Coast junior. They went to the knob type later. Must have been cheaper.. my Jackmaster Classic needs a wrench I also need a pair of long nosed pliers to remove the used TP. The Jackmaster element has a fabric cover with a pull ring.
Wait...it's a bypass filter...so it's still pumping 95% or more of the regular (23-40 micron) oil is still pumped thru the engine and journal bearings...the filter only trickle cleans...which means it extends the life by "slowly" removing the contaminants...but if it's still pumping the garbage thru...is it really extending the life of your vehicles engine? The only true way is to force all the oil thru the cellulose filter...and it would be WAY to restrictive to get any good oil flow to ensure proper lubrication... I guess this would help on large engines with HUGE oil pans and gallons of oil being used for oil changes...but for most 5 quart cars...this isn't a economical solution. Either way...thanks for the review...love your video's! Keep em coming!
Engines move a huge amount of oil, several to many gallons per minute. Your oil pump is capable of draining your engine in under 30 seconds generally. So, even if 5% of the oil is going through the bypass filter, all of the oil will go through the filter several to many times in an hour.
Clearly you know little about cars...at a 40 (warm) to 60psi (cold) on the full flow filter, that "slowly" filtering filter branched of that? Is still 8-11psi with the amount of oil an engine holds? It will be filtered within a good 20 min of driving ... Reason being? Most of the oil pumped is excess and returns directly to the crankcase through the oil pressure regulator valve.
The Jackmaster Classic on my Pontiac Torrent came with about a .060 orifice at the outlet. Thats about the standard size. I put a .025 wire welder tip in a brass fitting and put it in the inlet. It cleans about 3/4 of a quart a minute. There is a chance the tiny orifice will clog. I check to make sure the filter is heating up. I also have a .025 orifice in the Ford canister filter on the Ford diesel tractor. I set it up to use Scott 1000. John Frantz put a Frantz canister in the larger Ford canister. I use only the Ford Canister. Lucky to find the flathead Ford V8 bypass filter. They were optional equipment. Cant get good elements for the Ford canisters now. The good ones used cotton or toilet paper. John Frantz didnt have 4 1/2 inch Scott 1000 toilet paper in 1953. He used the smaller 2 ply.
Its sad that so many people are so ignorant about something as simple as the oil system and keeping the oil clean. Its no wonder the oil change racket is so big. It takes some common sense. I drive mostly highway in the Dallas Texas area. You would need to make adjustments in cold weather short trips. When I sold filters some went to Norway and northern Canada. You need to run at normal operating temperature long enough for the crankcase ventilation system to remove the condensation and unburned fuel.
I use a differant brand than this on my tractor trailer, it holds 10 gallons of oil, I take an oil sample every 25,000 miles and only change it when the oil is dirty or contaminated. the furthest I've ran the oil is to 250,000 miles
+DaBossk yes but normally I only get about 100,000 miles per oil change, and presently I have 1,250,000 miles on the truck with no engine issues and all still original
.You just push in the TP and put on the lid. The Frantz is a terrible Design especially for using TP. The Jackmaster Classic will need a wrench and some long nosed pliers to pull out the used paper. The Jackmaster Classic has a fabric covered element with a ring to pull out the element.
You dont need synthetic oil. In the 60s I used Standard Delo 100 30 winter grade. It cost me 29 cents at the discount stores. I didnt drain oil but I changed the TP and added a quart of new oil. Delo came in 20 and 30 weight. Of course there were no diesel rated multi grade oils in those days. We changed the TP and added a quart of oil at about 2 K miles. Delo was popular mostly because it was beautiful when clean.
Years ago I was talking about a Detroit series 60 with over a million miles on it with virtually no wear. Road King Magazine asked me for the owners phone number. They did an article on it. It used Shell Rotella 15 40 conventional oil and a Gulf Coast filter that used two Bounty big roll paper towels. Gulf Coast filters used Frantz 3 stackers until they went out of production.
Thanks for sharing that experience. I've never used the paper towel type filters. Paper towels are nowhere near as dense as this cheap, hard, single ply TP stuff. Towels hold and lose way more oil, but just can't catch the little stuff as well.
Not everyone will. Like I said, it depends on how often you drain your oil a year, how much it costs you, and how long you plan to drive the vehicle. Here's a super easy way to find out → www.frantzfilters.com/calculate/
I think the real benefit is the superior filtration. If you have a look at the link to the Cummins Forum Brian put in the video it should explain the benefit. Even if you continued to change your oil as frequently as "normal", the reduced engine wear would more than counter the cost of the kit, extra quart of oil and the TP. How much does a new engine or rebuild cost? I'm seriously thinking of adding this to my 225K mile cummins.
My experience is with toilet paper filters. NASA saw my posts and started using the big paper towel filters. T he engineer said TP is better than paper towels. This is no surprise but the paper towels have the size advantage.The oil has to travel thhru 11 inches of paper 22 inches in the double roll model. They use the Big paper towel filters on the locomotive engines on Shell offshore rigs.shell oil loves them. At one time they used Frantz 3 stackers on them. I have no idea how many rolls of TP it takes to equip a locomotive engine. You dont want to change 10 Frantz 3 stackers. Ive done one
Filters were optional equipment in those days and were all bypass types. On the chevy 6s the bypass filter was clamped to the intake manifold. In 1953 John Frantz came out with a container that allowed you to use toilet paper in them.Actually the origional Frantz was a canister similar to the new Frantzs It had a hole in the center so you could slide it into a larger Fram or other cartridge filter upside down. I won't get into the details on seals and washers. The Famous Frantz 3 stacker that you can still find on shrimp boats and such was a taller canister that took three Frantz canisters with three rolls of toilet paper. Saw one on Ebay.They aint cheap. Frantz also had a FAA and PMA approved AeroFrantz. Saw some on crop dusters in the early 80s. Read aircraft oil analysis . Dont know if Frantz still has oil analysis reports on aircraft oil. The aircraft filtersused the same TP we used in the cars.2 ply facial quality. .most of us use Scott 1000 now..I prefer the top loaders that are better equipped to use TP. Such as the Jackmaster Classic.
You must be older than dirt. I remember when Sears Roebuck sold Henry Js Short for Henry J Kaiser. Sears Allstate. You could go to an appliance store and buy a Crosley car. I had a Crosley radio. Some people saved money by.going to Detroit to buy a car.
The old cars used the optional equipment bypass filters that were a lot better at cleaning oil than what they put on cars now. Normally used cotton. When John Frantz converted them to use superior toilet paper they were even better. When they were converted to pleated paper they were crap.
If I'm going to go the expense of jerry-rigging a bypass filter system in my brand new truck under warranty it's NOT going to use a roll of 99 cent toilet paper, I'll use something a little bit appropriate for the job at hand, like microglass media in a spin on cartridge rated 1, 3, or 5 micron absolute. You can even add a Delta P switch and it will tell you when to change it so you can plan accordingly.
You could try eBay if you feel lucky, but any reputable hydraulic parts distributor should have them. Cheapest brand I know of is Norman Filters, their construction varies somewhat, but as long as it's not for any esther type fluids (brake fluid, skydrol, PAG oil, etc.) it doesn't make a difference. Glass media spin ons will have an "M" in the part number, like "303M".
You sound like a you get what you pay for guy.. I had the micro glass filters on a big compressor at work. They dont clean oil. I had a Motor Guard toilet paper filter on there to clean the oil. When I changed the micro glass filter I brought it home and put it on my Farmall H as a full flow filter on the hydraulic system . Its been on there about 20 years.There is a Motor Guard bypass filter on there to clean the hydraulic fluid. It of course uses toilet paper. You can get elements now as good as toilet paper for a little more than 30 bucks if that makes you feel better. I had 1 micron filter bags at work that could filter to 1 micron for about 5 minutes. It takes depth such as toilet paper.
Right now, they are unavailable. I'll keep checking. I been debating on this bypass filter or a center fuge bypass filter. Now, I hear the Centerfuge system takes all the good stuff out because it takes it down to a micron also. I live in beautiful Kingman, Arizona were it is very hot and dusty. I have a 94 5.9 Cummings in a 90 F250. I want the truck to last a long time. it has 250k on it now but want it to last longer. What do the kits go for? Does it come with the 94 oil cap too? Thank you so much! God bless you and your family.
The only experience I have had with centrifuges was on my 65 Honda 305. It was inside the engine chain driven. They were popular on Mack trucks. Your engine needs some new oil. When we change the filter we add makeup oil. Not sure what Mack recommends. I doubt that they remove additives. The Honda packed the sludge in the drum tight.
The only time I. drain oil is if I get a problem such as coolant contamination I changed the oil on my 64 Rambler because of a leaky head gasket. When. I buy a used car I will drain the oil. I like to know. What's in the crankcase. In the 60s I used Delo 100 and changed the filter about every 2000 and added a quart of oil.
Saw some Charmin 2 ply that was similar to what we used in the Frantz and Motor Guard before there was Scott 1000 or Frantz elements. The core was bigger and the paper was shorter. The top loaders can handle it. The Frantz depends on the seal between the tube and tp core
When the Frantz filter element is changed there is a loss of about a quart/liter of oil and the TBN and additive package will be restored with the fresh replacement quart/liter of oil. If the regular factory oil filter is also changed at the same time an addition 1-2 quarts of oil will be added to restore the proper oil level and replenish the additives. With large class 8 truck engines with large capacity (24-48 quart) oil sumps the additive package can be restored with a container of additives available from CAT, Cummins/Fleetguard and several aftermarket sources. The Frantz bypass filter system has been around over 60 years and has an impressive historical record. The laboratory oil analysis proves it's effectiveness.
Thanks for the info. I don't think I need this product if I have to replace 1-2 quarts of 10 in the crank case when this filter is changed, on top of the $500 price of the kit....and toilet paper. It would be different if oil was far more expensive.
Michael Doerner It is the depth filtration that removes the fine particle contaminates that a traditional oil filter does not along with the extended oil change interval that makes the difference. Where I am located conventional oil is about $6 per quart and good synthetic is about $9-20 per quart. To me, changing a 10-28 quart sump every 3-6K miles gets expensive. If the oil change interval can be doubled and most wear causing particulates can be removed extending the useful life of the engine for the price of a bypass filtration system and the recurring expense of a roll of toilet paper every 6-12K miles the cost benefit is there.
This kit can help to keep the TBN of the oil up by removing water and contaminants. Water and contaminants causes the oil's TBN (reserve alkalinity) to decrease. However, this kit won't completely eliminate your OCI, since the oil's additives will still break down and the base oil will thin out. This filter can help extend your OCI when used with a quality synthetic oil though.
What caused acid to accumulate in the oil is using oil that doesnt neutralize acid and not adding enough new oil at filter changes. This is caused by going too far between filter changes or not having a filter that cleans oil.allowing oil to get dirty wear and foul the engine then draining it is a poor maintenance program. I know its what the oil changers recommend. Water causes acid we depend on normal engine temperatures so the crankcase ventilation can remove the condensation. Most good oils have an additive to neutralize acid.. If you have a diesel use a diesel rated oil. Not sure if a zinc additive will foul the catalytic converter. On a gasoline car..
The TP just doesn't come apart. Partly because it's packed in tight for support, but oil does nothing to it aside from make it heavy. With the support of the screen and the low pressure though, it has nothing pulling it apart like if you held up a 6 foot strand of wet TP. TP's designed to get wet and not fall appart- unless it's special camper or RV TP. Don't use that here.
When you pull out the used TP it should be strong and tear at each sheet. If it is weak and dont tear at each sheet it has been in there too long. The oil should make the paper stronger than new. Put bacon on a napkin and see what happens to the napkin. Oil does the same thing to toilet paper. Makes it stronger.
Ive used the TP filters for 60 years. Some of these fossils have used them longer. If the paper migrated into the oil system we would have figured it out by now. Some of the big truck filters use pulverized newspapers in their best elements. Luberfiner Fleetguard Wix. Would anybody say wont the pulverized newspapers get in the oil? Of course not.
If any paper got past the TP in my Jackmaster Classic it would instantly clog the tiny orifice.. i have a habit of checking my filters to make sure they are heating up. The element for the Jackmaster Classic is in a fabric bag for those that have that worry.The new Jackmaster Classic comes with a element in a bag..There is a pull ring attached to the fabric. Peasants use long nosed pliers to remove the used TP.
Been running a Frantz in my 98 24V since I purchased it in 08. The inside valve cover surfaces are like brand new still. Easy way to lower maintenance costs. I'd like to add a filter to my auto tranny too. Do you recommend that? Love your vids. Been checking out all your Dodge Cummins stuff, awesome! Dave.🆒
If you still got that truck then don’t bother with a toilet paper filter on the transmission. Just get an external can filter you can spin off every 50k miles and that should be enough. Automatic transmissions hate big chunks but the really small stuff doesn’t matter.
At one time Frantz had transmission adapters. I make my own. They go into the line to the cooler. It is 2 tees with an orifice in between. Gulf Coast might have the adapters.I think they use a 1/8" adapter. Frantz was a little smaller. The fluid hits the orifice and backs up. Part of the fluid goes to the Frantz .The clean fluid goes to the low pressure side of the orifice. My transmission book says to get a spin on filter mount and a high quality spin on filter. A lot less hassle. At any rate you will need to determine which way the fluid is flowing.
Ive been a clean oil fanatic for 60 years. My Farmall H has a Chevy 4 cylinder engine with a Impala automatic. The Impala has a decent stock filter in the pan. It has a Motor Guard TP filter to keep the tranny and the stock filter clean. The 76 F 250 Ranger has a Gulf Coast filter on the tranny. The Ford has a lousy screen the same as the Nissan Altima. The Motor Guards are in front of the radiater. I remove the grill to change the toilet paper. Normally i dont change the TP after the first change. The TP will turn grey. I wired the Motor Guard transmission filter to the top of the 3400 Pontiac engine .The Jackmaster Classic is wrapped in pastboard and is in a low place.Getting hard to find a good place on some of these cars. The Atf filter on the 93 Subaru Legacy is just laying on some hoses. Good place for a Motor Guard on the lube oil. Used a two port sandwich adapter on it
The automatic transmission is a precision piece of equipment the same as the engine. Of course the small stuff will wear the close tolorance parts. The question is it worth the extra cost of a superior filter. All I have on my transmissions is old tp filters that I bought when they werent so expensive.
Ive always had to change the TP filters more often because I dont drain oil. I was wondering why you couldnt use 20.000 mile oil and a 20.000 mile full flow filter and a TP filter and change everything in about 20.000 miles.or check the oil and see if you can go farther. Some with lesser bypass filters are doing that sort of thing.
Ive used toilet paper filters for 60 years. Ive heard claims 1/100th of 1 micron to 5 microns The Australian Jackmaster Classic claims 1 micron if you use their elements. They use a very tightly wound roll of toilet paper in a bag. They put about a .060 orifice at the outlet. On my Jackmaster Classic I put a .025 wire welder tip in a brass fitting and put it in the inlet. I know there is danger of the small orifice clogging but my engine is pristine. I make sure the Jackmaster Classic is heating up. The Jackmaster Classic and the Gulf Coast junior are my favorite filters. All of the toiler paper filters are good.
Most every filter on a car is make of paper of some kind. Most have to be thick and restrictive due to pressures. This is low pressure and slow flow so TP type paper is perfect. Lots of filtration layers. No rush.
There are no full flow filters that clean oil. A full flow filter that could clean oii would be too large to go under the hood. There are no bypass filters that can filter fast.
it is a bypass filter by design. It just takes some of the oil and runs it through the TP filter on the side IE in parallel with your oil pump. If it fails to flow nothing happens except you don't get that additional filtering.
The bypass filter is putting a small stream of clean oil in the oil pan until all the oil in the engine is clean. If you neglect the bypass filter the stream of clean oil will stop going to the oil pan.
Actually the Frantz works the same as any bypass filter for the last 100 years except it is better at cleaning oil because it uses toilet paper. The old cotton filters like on my 41 Dodge was almost as good. My 37 Studebaker book said it wasnt necessary to drain the oil except for seasonal reasons. Change the oil filter when the oil looks dirty.on the depth guage.(dipstick). They had a bypass filter that worked the same as a Frantz but wasnt as good.
I put a .025 wire welder tip in a brass fitting and put it in the inlet of my Australian Jackmaster Classic. It cleans about 3/4 quart a minute and sends it to the oil fill neck when the oil is hot. How this will work in cold weather short trips I dont know. I mostly operate in warm weather highway. This only works when there is no leakage around the toilet paper.
When I worked in a Standard full service gas station they said good oil dont need.extra additives. Someone asked why do we sell them. The instructor said because people buy them.We were mostly sales people.People would take the air filter off and pour STP through the carburetor We didnt go that far.
When I was selling the Frantz in the early 80s a guy asked me if it was too late to put a Frantz on his Corolla with about 100.000 miles on it. I asked him how long he planned on keeping it. He said a long time. I said it needs a Frantz. Years later my wife was was introducing me to a realtor here in Denton Texas. She said mr Biggs this is my husband.. He said I know Ralph. He put a Frantz on the Corolla. It has over 500.000 miles on it now. Took the boy scouts on a camp out and they found the Frantz elements.
Does the sandwich plate ( fitting between the twist off filter and engine block) come with the kit ?? As well as the quick release couplings for the return line? They don't say in the description secondly, i know for sure it does not include the aluminium oil cap you have shown there.. @ least for the universal kit anyhow...
At one time Frantz had two port sandwich adapters. A piece of cake. A port for a hose to the Frantz and a port for the return. They didnt work so well for small engjnes. Not enough flow. I have used oil cooler adapters from Jegs The Perma Cool universal. When I bought a Australian Jackmaster Classic from Ebay I noticed they had a bunch of sandwich adapters. I didnt need one.I converted a two port to a one port sandwich and returned the clean oil by tapping the plastic oil fill extension.Pontiac 3400. Also noticed the Jackmaster Classic has dropped in price The 93 Subaru Legacy has a Perma Cool universal sandwich adapter that I got from Jegs years ago. They are for oil coolers. The clean oil from the Motor Guard goes into the inlet of the full flow filter.
The table top display at 2.50 would be something I would like to make. What did you use for the pump to move the oil from the dirty pan/bucket to the regular filter then out to the Frantz filter. Got any plans on how you made it.
Back in the 60s Frantz and Motor Guard had beutiful demo units in a sewing machine box The unfair thing about them was the only filter that were as good were each other. Pleated paper filters cant clean oil. You wouldnt put a Australian Jackmaster where the spin on filter is. Frantz stuck with that obsolete design and got left behind. Hard to find TP that fits now.. Jackmaster claims their elements are better than TP but they set up the filters for TP for we peasants. Push the paper down against the bottom and put on the lid. A piece of cake. The Jackmaster has a way to pull the fabric covered element out. Peasants need long nosed pliers.
The last demonstration machine I bought from Frantz used a water fountain pump and a gasoline valve like you switch from one tank to the other. Rather crude compared to the origionals of the early 60s. The valve is on the old F 250 now..
Just installed one of these on my caravan... Took a reading on the dipstick prior to and after installation, both were good. Now after i ran the vehicle a couple miles, the dipstick shows more than a qt low!!!! ... Any ideas? Thanks.
Jaymoe69 i guess the frantz filter fills up with oil after starting engine and remains full as oil filters through it, so that's where your missing quart is on the dipstick. It's not rocket science!
When I put a Motor Guard on the wifes 66 VW beetle I had to tilt it so the big pieces of metal wouldnt go back in the engine at shut down. The Motor Guard filtered from the bottom up. Frantz recommended putting the Frantz upside down on the beetle. The beetle came with no filter. I believe before I met her she was getting the oil changed about every 1500 miles. Never got another oil change.I brought a new Motor Guard to our next date. Those piece of crap engines could last a long time with clean oil and frequent valve adjustments.
I have seen those before. but didn't know anything about them. I'm glad you reviewed it. but t.p. it looks like they would at least make their own brand. does it matter what kind of paper you use? is it just the cheap single layer stuff. and I guess you can't reuse use the paper. what would be the point of wiping with oily paper.haha.. but great review. now if they could find a way to get that kind of fuel mileage! how much psi is required to push the oil through the paper? is there a minimum psi before it will work properly?
About the only paper that fits the Frantz is the Frantz elements. When I bought my first Frantz the grocery stores were full of 2 ply facial quality TP. In the 60s single ply was loose wound junk. We used 2 ply facial quality. Havent used theFrantz in years. Getting hard to find paper that fits the Frantz. The problem is the larger cores. Frantz needs a 1 1/2 inch core. People are putting spacers on the center tube so that they can use the bigger core TP. About the only paper that fits now is the Frantz paper. You could find 1 1/2 inch core Scott 1000 a short time ago. The same for Great Value 1000 from Walmart. The top loaders dont care what size the core is. Jackmaster has a 2inch core seal. The Frantz core seal is also too small. Motor Guard Gulf Coast junior and Jackmaster put some thought into making filters that are easy to service. Frantz is a terrible design. The paper companies wont make paper to fit the filters. The filters will have to fit the TP. Of course the filter makers are having TP custom made to fit. I get mine at Walmart. Im a TP squeezer. Ive never had an engine that doesn't have enough oil pressure for TP. If my oil light comes on at a stop sign I would find out why.
Brian has the Frantz element. The core is 1 1/2 inch. Notice the core seal imprint around core. People are putting a spacer on the tube so they can use the.bigger TP tube.The top loaders use a larger core seal. You can also get TP that fits for 30 bucks or more. The Frantz element is probably more economical. Havent sold them since the 80s.You do what you gotta do for 100% clean oil 100% of the time. Saw on Ebay the Jackmaster elements cost about the same as the Frantz elements. Of course you have the shipping cost from Australia.
Seems like a good idea. Now would this pull out debris that an oil test would would warn you about upcoming issues? Consistent oil tests will let you now when something changes in your oil. If this filters so well I wonder if oil analysts would still be for warning.
Chances are it would hide history of a problem, but it would also help curtail that problem too. Those little tell-tale particles serve as a warning, but they also attract and gouge out more particles too.
I have an old instrument that passes an electric current thru a used oil sample.It is zeroed on new oil the same as what is in the engine.its like for big diesels engines. Dirty oil conducts electric better than clean oil If the reading is too high a sample goes to the lab. If the instrument pegs out the engine is shut down first. Some engineers on these drilling rigs have a good idea what is happening before a sample goes to the lab. To me the oil is either dirty or clean.
Its amazing. On an over the road truck for example oil analysis can tell you your air compressor is wearing out so you can change it before you get stranded. They know what is wearing out by what kind of metal is showing up in the analysis. I put a Frantz oil cleaner on a race mechanics truck.that he pulled the race car with. I used a Frantz Adapter that eliminated the full flow filter. He could tell by what was showing up on top of the toilet paper the condition of the 292 big six Chevy engine. A long time ago. 1965.
I would do this if I didn't think it restricted oil flow at start up. One purpose of an oil filter is to help oil flow to the top of the engine faster at startup. 75% of engine wear happens at startup. Maybe I'm wrong about restrictions to oil flow if it has 2 oil filters and more oil.
Yes. No... The tiny pinhole is shown at least twice in the video. There's no way in hell you would get the same oil flow in the Franz as you get in the stock filter. Small amounts over time.
It does NOT restrict oil flow to the engine. How does an oil filter "...help oil flow to the top of the engine faster at startup"? That statement is completely false. A lot of wear does happen at startup. Probably more than that. Hard to tell because the majority of the rest of the wear is caused by contaminants that bypass the regular filter entirely. At cold start or high revs the bypass valve opens and lets oil bypass the filter. Not to be confused with the filter kit mentioned in the video which is a BYPASS filter. This means it only takes a small amount of oil and filters it and then dumps it back into the crankcase. It just runs off oil pressure like any bearing. So the regular filter still does most of the work and can still let contaminated oil into the engine at cold startup.
The Wix full flow filter on my Pontiac Torrent has been on there for 60.000 miles and over 4 years. The TP bypass filter keeps the oil engine and Wix clean. If the full flow filter bypass valve opens there will be no dirty oil going to the bearings. The Motor Guard kept every thing clean. I took off the Motor Guard to try the Jackmaster There wont be any difference. They are both capable of eliminating oil changes and engine wear..And are easy to service. The Gulf Coast junior is the same. With its glass filled nylon canister and stainless steel hardware its advantage is salt water marine use when I was selling filters I recommended changing the full flow filter every 2 years. The bypass filter protects the full flow filter. Neglect the bypass filter and every thing goes to hell. Some of the old Frantz and Motor Guard users never changed the full flow filters. Motor Guard and Frantz also had adapter plates that eliminated the full flow filter..
Im not convinced 75% of engine wear is caused by starting the engine. One bypass filter company claims 99% of engine wear is caused by dirty oil. I dont know. I do know some oil stays on the engine parts when you shut off the engine. Best if that oil is clean.
My experiment with going 65.000 miles without changing the full flow filter is over. Cut open the standard WIX. The pleats were rotten but still in one piece. Put on a larger WIX XP. I know it is working good because nothing is showing up on top of the toilet paper in the Jackmaster Classic Im told the WIX XP has synthetic pleats. The pleats have a wire backing. One thing about the Jackmaster Classic I like is I can remove the lid to see if the full flow filter needs changing.
Toilet paper is not stabilized by any resin or polymer. So any water in the oil, and there's lots from blow by, will block and paper filtration. Because of the use of resin in "real" filters there not affected by water. That toilet tissue filter is, exactly what the many relevent puns would imply
Filled with oil, the filter will hold also a couple ounces of water. Also, these same filters are used for coolant filtration, rendering your argument...... inapplicable.
Some people use T P as a pre filter to make their expensive activated charcoal water filter last longer. You would need a Glass filled nylon Gulf Coast junior filter for that. Read about that on a Trawler world forum years ago. I put one on my Ford diesel. I thought my cooling system was clean. The TP lookes like it came out of a mud puddle. More trouble than its worth. You put tees in the heater hoses Read a letter from the marine base in Okinawa I believe. They use a Gulf Coast filters portable system. They go from equipment to equipment cleaning the cooling systems. They add additives as needed.Gulf Coast has a picture of a portable system on their web site. They do a lot of military. Not just cooling systems.
The real filters dont clean oil. The real filters remove the large engine damaging abrasives and allow the smaller engine wearing abrasives to build up in the oil until you drain it or install a depth bypass filter. We depend on oil temperature and the PCV to remove the water and unburned fuel..It goes out the tail pipe.The ignorance is hard to believe. It aint rocket science. The oil stabilizes the TP.
When I change the toilet paper it is strong and tears at each sheet. If the used tp isnt strong it has been in there too long. If the tp gets rotten because it has been there too long it will stay in the housing. If a full flow filter pleats get rotten they might break down and leave the housing. I dont have a habit of neglecting filters.
Also need an oil pump.when I bought my first Frantz in 1963 all we had was gasoline powered pickups.Frantz instructions covered most American cars and the VWBeetle. Some put them on Harly Davidson and Model A Fords..Dont know how they did it. The Frantz on my 70s Honda 500 Custom was the same as a car
You will need a way to tap into the oil pressure. This could be a tee at the oil pressure switch or a pipe plug. And a way to return the clean oil like to the oil pan. In the old days all we had was hose and fittings and a self tapping hollow bolt. The biggest challenge is finding room under the hood. Sometimes I leave the filter in the box and put it in a low place.without the bracket.. They are all different. On the Pontiac Torrent I used a one port sandwich adapter and returned the clean oil by drilling and tapping tho oil fill neck extension 1/8 pipe. I tapped under the fill cap on the Altima 2.5. Also used a one port sandwich on the Altima. I still have a few adapters made by Frantz over 50 years ago. I see the Element fits in the demonstratiion. Looks like a Frantz element. Hard to find TP that fits the Frantz. These days. Yes Brian has the Frantz element. TP custom made for the Frantz. See the core seal imprint around the TP core.
The Frantz is a good filter. My best filter for tight places is the Australian Jackmaster Classic. I started with a Frantz in 1963. I prefer the top loaders. They are better suited to use tp. Just push the tp down against the bottom and put on the lid. My Ford diesel tractor has a flat head Ford V8 canister filter that I adapted to use Scott 1000. Havent used the Frantz since the early 90s. Lousy design but they cleaned oil. The Ford filter doesnt always drain at shut down. I put a tubeless tire valve in the lid to push out the excess oil before changing.
There are a lot of good bypass filters to choose from. I dont plan on paying 20 dollars or more for something as good as toilet paper. I have too many TP filters for that.
when I was working on my motorcycle and draining the oil a lot I noticed when I let the oil sit in a gallon jug all the impurities would fall to the bottom and the oil was clean. is that like a way to renew oil or something? just let it sit and pump the clean stuff off the top?
Many oil pans have something to that effect. There are also magnetic oil drain plugs that hold ferrous metals in the bottom to keep them from going wrench in the works. That's litterally the concept behind this filter- trap the glitter and remove it from circulation while you drive.
+briansmobile1 my uncle was telling me something about oil breaking down.. does that just mean it gets dirty or does the chemical makeup change or something?
I put a Frantz oil cleaner on my Honda 500 Custom. I converted the canister full flow filter to a Ford spin on.used a Frantz sandwich adapter. Returned the clean oil to a plug similar to a valve adjusting plug.hung the Frantz upside down back behind the saddle bag. A motorcycle club at San Jose California had Frantz oil cleaners on their Harlys. Better than putting it in a jug LOL.
Would this cause too much of a flow restriction and possible excessive wear on the oil pump given that the pump is having to draw the oil not only through the stock filter, but also the add-on filter (especially given the small hole and dense filter cartridge)?
Not at all. It's a separate circuit of the oil. It can block off completely and your main filter and it's business will just continue. This takes just a tiny bit of oil out of circulation- cleans it thoroughly and then puts it back in.
Bypass filters have been in use for a hundred years. They all hook up the same as the Frantz. They came out in the 20s and were optional equipment. My 41 Dodge came with a Fram with a cotton element. John Frantz invented a adapter that converted the Fram and other canister filters to use toilet paper. My 64 Rambler American flat head 6 came with a factory installed bypass filter upside down on the head with steel oil lines. To clean the oil I removed it and installed a Frantz. Recently got in a Australian Jackmaster Classic. Just my opinion but I thinl it is the best available if you are like me and use toilet paper. I have been using Great Value 1000. The Jackmaster Classic is designed for tightly wound toilet paper or you can pay up to 30 dollars and more for the factory elements. They have a 2 inch core seal. No I dont sell filters now. Ive used and sold all of them. They all clean oil if they use toilet paper or something that looks like toilet paper. Correction. I have sold all of the main ones Frantz Motor Guard Gulf Coast Jackmaster. Another correction Never sold the Jackmaster Classic.
The oil pump pulls oil up from the oil pan and pressures up the engine oil system and the bypass filter. A relief valve in the oil pump sends what the engine and bypass filter dont need back to the oil pan. If your engine has a turbo its the same as the Frantz. Oil goes to the turbo bearing and back to the oil pan. The more the engine wears the more oil it takes to pressure up the engine. If the oil pump is worn out or the relief valve is stuck open you might not have enough oil pressure. The small amount going to the bypass filter or turbo bearing is nothing.
In the 60s Motor Guards sold for 29.95. Grand auto parts in San Jose California one time sold obsolete Motor Guards.for 12 something. With hose and fittings. They put a loose screen in that got thrown away with the used TP. It looked like part of the used TP.. Looks like Frantz did a loose screen on the new model. What were these people thinking.
When I bought my first Motor Guard oil cleaner for the car it was the latest model. I didnt know it but the demonstrating machine I bought had a loose screen in the top. Everything worked fine until I changed the TP. When I started the machine the gear pump tripped the circuit breaker for a bunch of venders at the flea market. The Motor Guard filtered from the bottom up.. The screen covered a orifice at the top. The screen came out with the used paper..I think Grand auto parts was selling the screen models. Hell boy I can get a Motor Guard for 12 dollars at Grand auto parts. I was selling them for 29.95. Did I see a guy remove the loose screen from the TP on the new model Frantz.
@@ralphwood8818Thank you!! I really wanted to know before I fork out for a bypass filter. I was so disappointed after changing my oil and seeing it go dark again so quickly
Dont know of any filter that can keep the oil in a diesel from getting black. Some diesel engines take longer for the oil to get black. The oil can be analytically clean and be very black. My Ford diesel tractor for example. My oil filter is as good as you can get. It is a flat head Ford V8 canister filter converted to use a full roll of Scott 1000. At present time it uses a cut down roll of VIVA paper towels. 4 1/2 by 5 1/2 inches. I mark a roll of towels. When the towels get used down to 4 1/2 inches I cut then to make two 5 1/2 inch elements.
@@samwest3762 when I put a Frantz on my nearly new 64 Rambler American flat head 6 the oil went from dirty and black to golden. I expected the same with the Peugeot diesel. It aint going to happen. Its like filtering out ink. Im pretty good at determining if the black oil is still clean. Ive been at it for a long time. If the oil is dirty it will feel dirty and will stain the skin. One guy said he checked the dipstick after an oil change. He went back and accused them of not changing the oil. They said you must be new at owning a diesel. Some engines take longer for the oil to get black. My Ford diesel tractor isnt one of them. I probably wont drain the oil but I will change the bypass filter often and add a lot of make up oil.
Absolutely. I hate the thought of other people working on my truck even if it is for free. I really LIKE the idea of preventing all the EGR system black death in my engine too!
What about the additives that are in oil? I thought that you change the oil regularly to make sure that your oil contains the various additives that are used up over time. Particulate matter is only one reason for changing your oil. Am I wrong?
No- you're not wrong at all. That's exactly right. Acids, PM's, and additive package can all play a factor. Using the right oil helps a lot. Not all oils are created equal. Synthetic oils have longer drain intervals because the additives and temperature characteristics are superior. Most people in Europe choose synthetic oil even though they pay a lot more for it than we do. It's cheaper in the long run and more effective and convenient.
The way it was explained to me is additives last a lot longer in clean oil. When you change the TP you are keeping the oil clean. When you add a quart of new oil you are replinishing the additives. One mistake some are making is they are going too far between filter changes. I have been guilty of that myself.
You dont need synthetic oil.In the 60s I used Standard Delo. Since it wa a diesel rated oil I assumed it had a healthy amount of additives. I changed the TP and added a quart of Delo about every 2.000 miles. Delo was about 29 cents in the discount stores. There were no multi grades for diesels in those days.
The Frantz is the prettiest of the TP filters. Better designed filters for using TP are here now. I use TP.. Hard to find paper that fits the Frantz. This filter has the Frantz element. My filters are all designed to use the new TP. Motor Guard Gulf Coast junior and Jackmaster Classic. You can buy 30 dollar TP now. My Jackmaster Classic is the best but it is green. Like you would put on an army vehicle. Thats where some are going. Jackmaster claims their elements are better than TP but you can use tightly wound TP..Frantz isnt set up for TP..
Bypass filters have been around since. the 20s. They all hook up the same as the Frantz Luberfiner Fleetguard 750 . Why did they start being a problem when TP was mentioned. Its amazing.
@@ralphwood8818 i promis you it will lower both pressure and volume. All you internet guys are the guys that think its ok to go 10k on a oil change because your owners manual says to and swear you have 1 billion miles on every car you own doing that. But in reality all the guys who work on cars for a living are replacing engines all the time in cars who's owner's do this sort of thing.
@@blue03r6 you dont understand how the oil system works but you have an opinion. What else is new. Allowing the oil to get dirty wear and foul the engine then draining it has never made any sense. An engine doesnt need dirty oil.
Some of the engines have no way to tap into the oil pressure.on the mowers. I use Frantz sandwich adapters for Fords 3/4 16 threads with Ford or Toyota spin on flters. You do what you gotta do for clean oil. Return the clean oil to the drain port.
When I started using the Frantz in 1963 engines were dirtier and oil wasnt as good. Modern gasoline engines almost dont need bypass filters. Im a clean oil nut case. My Ford diesel tractor needs the depth filtration. A lot of soot. The hydraulic oil lubricates the 12 speed transmission the power steering the loader and the three point hitch. The factory only put a strainer in the sump. Im told this tractor has hard to find parts that are very expensive.79 Ford 1900 3 cylinder diesel.
Put a KN full flow filter on the hydraulic oil and a Motor Guard tp filter. Both in parallel as bypass filters. Fed them with a orifice and needle valve with a gauge. If the Motor Guard cloggs up the fluid will go thru the KN and I wont get blown off the tractor by hydraulic fluid.
It could work in theory. Measures would have to be in place to keep it going through enough times to be clean. And you'd have to use or create means to keep it from making a mess to have it be worthwhile.
I once had a slightly elevated tank with used oil in it.I thougbt I can put a valve and hose on it and run the hose to the TP filter then to a clean container. Didnt work. Probably need 5 psi or more. You dont get the long engine life that way. It must be done on the car. Some large diesels have a computer that puts some oil in the fuel tank from the engine and adds some new oil. From a tank..
They're both terrible choices. You want thin single ply cheap stuff. It's tougher and filters better. Think # of sheets like you would think folds per inch on a spin-on oil filter.
The Bounty big roll paper towels are what they use on heavy duty diesel engines. Things change but now Charmin wouldnt be as good for small engines as Scott 1000 or Great value 1000 from Walmart..The advantage of the Frantz elements is they fit. Peasants know how to adapt the Frantz to use the bigger core TP. The Jackmaster Classic is set up for TP. If you can find a used Motor Guard Gulf Coast or Jackmaster get it. Saw a used Jackmaster on Ebay for 50 bucks. People are grabbing them as more people learn about them. I guess TP is TP untill you put it in a canister. Then you have one hell of a filter material.
One guy called Guidpguitar was showing his VW dune buggy with a pristine engine. He was using loose wound TP. Normally you wouldnt think a loose wound roll of TP would clean as good as Scott 1000. The cheap loose wound paper was cleaning the oil but the contaminants were getting deeper in the TP like the Bounty big roll. Sometimes you can get fooled. When he showed us the valves I knew he was doing something right.
No, not by 1 mile or 500 typically. With a system like this owners of Cummins Engines are going 20,000 miles between drain intervals and their test results show the useful oil life remaining to be upwards of 60%.
A lot of users of these filters wont run on dirty oil to keep the warranty good..Clean oil comes first. Over the road truckers have an oil analysis program to prove the oil is good in case there is a problem with the engine. Oil analysis will also tell them if a repair is needed.
You repeatedly say 'ALL'; all the dirt, all the water, etc. when actually it's a miniscule amount; a percentage of the percentage that goes through the main filter.
There is almost nothing in a modern engine motor oil large enough to be removed by the full flow filter. To remove the contaminants too small to be removed by the full flow filter we have oil changes or bypass depth filters. The bypass filters make a lot more sense. All I have now is top loaders with larger core seals for the larger TP cores.with the top loaders you push in the TP and put on the lid. The only paper that properly fits the Frantz is the Frantz elements..putting a spacer on the tube sucks. They keep changing the core size..with the top loaders the core is properly sealed Frantz needs to get their act together or they will keep going broke.
It's a Motor Guard. They started as a lube oil filter in 1961. They are submicronic. They haven't made oil filters in a long time. My Altima has two of them. Have to remove the grill to service them. The Motor Guard on my 76 f250 with the 390 is over 50 years old..some crazy people like me put a orifice in the compressed air filter and cut aluminum parts for the inside to filter motor oil.They were the best in the 60s. Got tired of the bull shit stories and being sued by Frantz.They already had the better selling compressed air filters and dropped the Lube oil filters. The compressed air filters are submicronic. They go to body shops instrument air aircraft painting of course plazma cutting. For filtering motor oil they had manifolds for diesel trucks.The bigger the engine the more TP filters they manifolded together. Grand Auto parts in San Jose California sold them. I tried to bring them back. Motor Guard ddidnt like me using TP. They have their own elements. They were designed to use TP.. the compressed air elements are like coffee filter paper with a plastic core for people that run wet air thru them. They are not a water seperater. I had refrigerated water seperators at work upstream from the Motor Guards. The Motor Guards were the only ones safe to use for compressed air.
At one time I could find Motor Guards for less than a hundred and convert them back to lube oil. About as cheap to just buy a Jackmaster Classic. The Jackmaster would be strong enough to filter compressed air but it is die cast aluminum with no coating inside. And you would need to drill out the orifice Probably would do fine if you didnt leave it setting with a wet element
Long story short... A video on installation would be really cool... I do understand the benefits of this idea. I would even do it on a Ford Focus for fun and for gain.
Frantz has one on their site.
This idea is not new, as most over the road trucks use a similar product called a luberfiner filter. Only it is huge by comparison.
The Luberfiner is getting rare on trucks. It was common to see Luberfiners on over the road trucks. Some were chrome plated and had a Peterbilt decal on them. Then you only saw them on dump trucks and other trucks operating under dirty conditions.. at one time they used cotton waste. The later 750 cartridges like WIX Fleetguard and Luberfiner went to pulverized newspapers and wood chips. Worked for a company that wouldnt put a truck on the road until a Luberfiner was installed. They were nasty to change.most people dont understand the importance of clean oil. When they started putting full flow filters on trucks people thought they cleaned oil as good as the big filters.The big luberfiners ended up out behind the shop.I think the last big Cummins Fleet Guard 750s I bought were inexpensive. The International truck dealer I got them from passed away. So did my discount. I still have a Fleetguard 500. Its about half the size of the 750. The big Gulf Coast filters clean better. They aint cheap.
They are all different. It takes someone that can look things over and decide where to put the filter and where to get pressure and return the clean oil.. I just bought a Ford Diesel tractor that needs to be restored. Was looking for some parts ive been hoarding. Right there collecting dust was a flat head Ford V8 canaster filter. I converted it to take a roll of Scott 1000 and installed it on the tractor. Using a Perma Cool universal sandwich adapter that I got from JEGS years ago. Couldnt find a old Frantz 2 port that fit.
I remember when I worked at a Mobil station these were popular in the early 80s, especially when Mobile 1 was the rage with their 25k interval that USE to be printed on the bottle. Mobil had a training class about Mobil 1. They said since the dirt doesn't bind to synthetic molecules as conventional oil does, in theory if you could keep the oil perfectly filtered the oil wouldn't need changing. You would just add an additive package. Since oe filtration is horrible, you must change it. I had many customers that ran Mobil 1 for 20k miles and changed the filter only every 5k. Never a problem. The only induced oil problems I ever had was using slick 50 in the 80s. It would build up a slime layer that could block oil passages as in camshaft oil holes and if had to rebuild a Slick 50 engine, the rebuilder would hate it b/c it makes the boring machine walk the cylinder. Don't get me started about the Arco graphite oil that no seals could contain.
My grandfather used a Frantz filter on his 1969 F250 with a 360 v8 engine that he purchased new. He never removed the drain plug but every 6000 miles he removed the paper roll and added enough new oil to maintain a full level. In 1989 I inherited that truck. The oil was clear, and looked like it just came out of the can. I continued with granddads practice and drove that truck for another 20 years. Vehicle had a valve job at 180,000 miles and lower end was not opened since new. At 300k+ miles my son in law broke an oil line to the filter and continued to drive and shortly thereafter seizing the engine. On teardown the engine looked as clean as a factory new engine. Decided to get a later model truck and sold the truck to a dismantler. I miss my Frantz filtering system even though I had to use a home made adapter because over the years the size of the toilet paper inner tube got bigger (less paper on the roll). Didn't realize that the system was still available and will order it for my current vehicles. For those who say you cannot do what we did because the additives wear out must remember that a new quart was added every 6 k plus grandpa used Marvel mystery oil along with the new quart. And yes I have been a mechanic and taught mechanics for many years.
Out in California I bought Motor Guard filters from a guy that had his drain plug welded on to demonstrate that he didnt need to drain the oil. He had a habit of pulling the Motor Guard off and trading the Pontiac in on a new car at about 100.000 miles. Can you imagine some guy going to change the oil and the drain plug is welded on.
My 76 F250 Ranger has the 390. Had some gasket leaks. Decided to overhaul the engine. Saw there was nothing wrong with it. No ridge on the cylinders cleaned the valves and tops of the pistons and put it back together. Yes the Toilet paper changed Frantz didnt I bought a Australian Jackmaster Classic. It has a 2 inch core seal. There is no tube to put a spacer on. They use the TP core as a center tube. You just push the TP down against the seal and put on the lid..They have an optional air fitting to push out the excess oil so there is no spillage. They use a hand air pump..
It was a piece of cake putting a Frantz on a new or well maintained engine. If you are a Frantz dealer and are unlucky enough to put a Frantz or other TP filter on a neglected sludged up engine you are in a heap of trouble. Told my uncle we can open up the engine and clean the engine or change the Frantz every 50 miles.He traded the 59 ford in on a new Dodge pickup. We put the Frantz on the pickup. Not so much of a problem these days.I was reminded of the useless filter I put on my dads 51 Pontiac. It filled with sludge.and quit working. Dont go to any more family reunions.
I changed the Frantz every 2.000 miles in the 60s. The Jackmaster Classic I change every 6.000 miles with 10 W /30 these days with synthetic. The old Ford diesel tractor will bea challenge. I seldom get the oil up to operating temperature. It has a flat head Ford V8 canister filter that uses Scott 1000. It uses a oil cooler sandwich adapter. Perma Cool universal from JEGS.
Brian, your videos helped me a lot this weekend! I converted my 98 impreza GF8 hatch rear brakes from drums to discs and had to check a couple things here and there and your subaru videos were very handy indeed! Capturing the whole process from start to finish with the extra details and thought process you show is exactly what I needed. Keep up the great work and always looking forward to more useful videos! :) (PS, I love how some subaru parts are just so easily interchangable!)
Well as far as I know it's the additive package in the oil that gets depleted over time that is the major concern not just particulate . This filter does not address this and expending the oil change interval is something I would not do. Might be of use for some but for me I just change the oil more frequently. Nice review Brian.
Hey Steve, when the Frantz filter element is changed about 1 quart/liter fresh makeup oil is added that helps restore the additives.
Same thing occurs when the factory filter/element is changed.
The used oil laboratory analysis shows how well the system works, the condition of the additives package and the presence/quantity of any contaminates including any wear metals.
+patw52pb1 It seems all the manufactures have gone to longer oil change intervals and from what I hear from the guys that changes engines weekly they say it the extended oil changes that are the result. In North America the oil is relatively cheap compared to other parts and it's great for them but for me it's the same old 3 months or 5000 km . I guess I'm set in my ways LOL Nice to see you buddy Cheers
STEVE ROB
Likewise, take care and Cheers.
Thanks Steve. Check out some of the oil reports people have posted online. That's one of the things that gets evaluated.
Was talking about a Series 60 Detroit 425 HP engine that gets no oil drains.Road King magazine asked for the truck owners phone number. They did an article on it. Its the same system as the Frantz except instead of 1 quart of new make up oil added the double paper towel Gulf Coast filter needs 3 gallons of new Rotella. When the two full flow filters are also changed its 5.5 gallons of new Rotella.added. about every 250 K miles it is torn down and Shell oil measures the parts. It is reasembled and the used oil is poured back in. With Shell oil it will get a lot of oil analysis. At a million miles one engineer said it is not unusual for these Detroits to go a million miles but not be in near new condition.
Saw an episode of "Garage Squad" on Velocity channel. They had an old Datsun 240 Z that they were bringing back to life, and the engine bay had this same type of toilet paper oil filter. Never saw that before! Cool stuff!
Saw that Garage Squad. They had drank the Cool aid. The toilet paper breaks down and blows the engine. The bull shit stories always come with toilet paper filters. The filter companies would like to eliminate the term toilet paper filters. It wont work .They will always be toilet paper filters. They have never been beat. The Frantz has probably been on the Z since the Z has been new. We got to get it off before it ruins the engine.LOL.
Glad to see some Frantz users in the remarks.on the Garage Squad.
Frantz is the bomb, best dam bypass filter ever made and cheap. Filters down to .5 micron
Ive used toilet paper filters for 60 years starting with a Frantz. Everything I own with an oil pump has a toilet paper filter including riding mowers. I prefer the top loaders.They are the easiest to service. I recently bought a Australian Jackmaster from Ebay. These days you can pay 30 dollars and more for elements for these filters. I am a highly skilled journeyman toilet paper squeezer. Ive been using Great Value 1000 from Walmart in mine. The Jackmaster Classic has a bigger core seal for the bigger core toilet paper. Or you can use 30 dollar elements that they claim are better than toilet paper. Ive heard claims of submicronic up to 2 microns for TP.. Pretty sure Scott 1000 or Great Value 1000 can beat 5 microns. The 30 dollar elements can get down to at least 1 microns. It takes at least 3 microns.
My eyes aint so good was that 5 microns or .5 micron.
Frantz isnt the best. Stuck with that obsolete design and got left behind. The Australian Jackmaster is the best in production. You push the TP in and put on the lid.. The Austrailians have a larger seal for the larger TP cores.About the only element that fits the Frantz is the Frantz elements. The Jackmaster Classic has fabric covered elements but they set up the filters with a larger seal so we can use the larger core TP.. I see they are less expensive on Ebay than I paid for mine. Actually the Gulf Coast junior is as good as the Jackmaster as far as being easy to service. The Jackmaster Classic is die cast aluminum. The Gulf Coast junior is glass filled nylon.. Not sure they still make them. Saw some Jackmaster Classic elements for about the same price as the Frantz elements. Of course you have the shipping cost from Australia.
The cost is nothing compared to what they can save you in a lifetime. My 76 F 250 has a 50 year old Motor Guard. The Gulf Coast junior on the ATF is about 20 years old.
These products are great and I always advise people not to use cheap oil filters or cheap oil but DO NOT use them to extend your oil change intervals. The reason you need to change your oil is not just because of the contaminants. Yes that is a big reason but the additives in the oil (pour point depressants, dispersants, stabilizers etc) break down with use and the viscosity of the oil also thins. No filtration system will prevent this or even slow the process down. Yes, filter your oil well but do not exceed your manufacturers recommendation for oil change intervals or you are doing your vehicle a disservice.
Best comment so far. Having as clean oil as possible until the next change will probably do wonders. I also do not believe it's extended drain interval approved at all.
I'm pretty interested using this on an A/T that doesn't have any filters in them. Or would that filter away clutch material and cause slippage?
Finally someone with common sense that knows how engine oil works. Sad I had to read down this far to find it. Use one of these to keep your oil clean but don't ruin your engine by basing your oil changes off how clean your oil looks. For me as a mechanic, I would doubt your wear parts are going to look that much different at 300k miles then they would on any other well maintained engine. Most wear occurs at startup before the oil film is established. There is really no good way I know of to control that. When you shut your engine off the crank literally settles down on the bearing and the two surfaces touch. When you first hit your starter in the morning there is a very small moment when metal rubs metal. Then the oil film is established and no metal should be touching metal.
Another thing to consider is the oil filter bypass. I believe this oil filter bypass causes more wear than any other single thing. When cold much oil can be bypassing the filter entirely. Most people don't realize this can happen but it does more often then it should in my opinion. It is the ONLY way larger pieces of debri big enough to cause a scratch on a bearing can get through the filter. Every rebuild I do shows the bearings with some pretty decent scratches in them.
A "pre-oiler" will do that. It sends a shot (quart) into the motor BEFORE start up.
You all are " Oil Addicts ".... All of you needs to go " Oil Anonymous ". LMFAO 😂😂😂😂😂
Doing something like this to an automatic transmission would definitely help it last longer. A healthy transmission DOES NOT need worn off clutch material particles in the fluid to not slip. Contaminants
in the fluid doesn't do anything any good. If the transmission starts to slip after installing one of these filters, it was about to fail anyway. HOWEVER, if you want to run one of these filters on a transmission, DO NOT run it in series with the cooler. A filter like this is too restrictive to be run in series, and it won't allow enough fluid flow, which will cause problems.
Your Motor Guard compressed air filter started in San Jose California as a toilet paper lube oil filter.Cummins Fleet Guard 750 bypass filters used to use chopped. Newspapers and wood chips in their best elements. Wix and some others made elements for them and Luber Finers. Don't know what they have now. Its been a long time since I serviced the big engines. I have seen Frantz three stackers on some heavy trucks. They were a mess to change but very effective.
$350 for a filter kit. That's crazy! I was interested until I saw the price. Just think how much oil we could have saved this planet if car manufacturers starting putting this on all vehicles since 1953!
$350 for the complete kit. Check their website.
Don't lookup a Luber Finer 750 bypass system, you will have a coronary the replacement filter element is over $300 USD and gets changed about every 16-20K miles.
Complete system runs about $1000.
WOW!
Im a filter guy.many years ago I cut open a Luberfiner element to see what was in it. It was cotton waste with a few cotton twigs. I bought a WIX 750 element to see what was in it. It was pulverized newspapers and wood chips. The Fleetguard and Luberfiners are the same. At one time Cummins claimed a 80 % engine life increase with a Cummins Fleetguard 750. At one Time Gulf Coast filters used Bounty big roll paper towels.Not sure what they use now. A lot of them on locomotive engines on off shore rigs. Over the road trucks with a million miles with no oil drains. Dont remember what I paid for the Wix 750 to see what was inside it. I wouldnt pay 300 bucks i probably paid less than20 bucks at O Reileys. I have bought Fleetguard 750s from a International dealer with the elementfor about 200 bucks. A long time ago. I dont think you can get cotton elements now.. I had a Mazda diesel pickup once. It came factory equipped with a almost useless pleated paper bypass filter..I tossed it and put on a Frantz. Sold it to a Hispanic guy he was happy to get the Frantz. Told him I would put the Mazda filter back on. He said hell no I could keep it. He knew about the Frantz. I think I still have the Mazda filter like a lot of other junk. Probably a good idea to remove the Frantz before putting the add in the paper.
I remember selling Frantzs for 29.95. It was hell boy I can buy a real filter like came on the car for 2 dollars. Sold a Frantz to a well known dragster owner in the San Jose California area. I would say I put a Frantz on Joe Davies tow truck. The Frantzs got easier to sell. Not sure Joe Davis would apreciate that. Before I left California I put a Motor Guard on his Plymouth Fury. Chevrolet sponsored him. It was a Mustang Dragster.. Chevy engine with a Chrysler transmission
He liked Torque Flites. I used a Frantz adapter that eliminated the full flow filter on the Chevy Suburban.with the 292 big 6. When I left California it had about 300.000 miles with no oil changes. highway miles.pulling the dragster. Standard Delo 20 winter grade. I told him to use 30 wt. He got Baldwin filters and Valvoline free. He used Standard Delo because he wanted his oil to look like mine.Delo was. A beutiful oil when clean. He was using Standard Special. It had a dark tint to it. He was bitching. Frantz said drain the special and put in Delo. The special has an ashless additive that turns dark. He was a perfectionist from hell.
I don't drain oil .I started using the Frantz in 1963. I was using Standard Delo 100 30 wt. Engines were a lot dirtier in those days. I was changing the Frantz every 2000 k and adding a qt of oil.What happens to me was an older Standard oil employee explained to me if I used a Frantz and Delo my engine wouldn't wear out and I wouldn't need to change the oil. The thing was to change the Frantz. and add enough new oil to keep the oil clean and the additive package up to specs.When I saw my Delo turn from black to gold there was no need to waste money on oil analysis. I was hooked. I liked the Motor Guard better but the Motor Guard oil filters were discontinued in the 70s. I just put a. M 60 on a Subaru transmission. 2. M 30s on the engine and transmission on a Pontiac Torrant. I am trying the Pennzoil Platinum on the Pontiac. The 93 Subaru still uses the conventional oil. My 84 Subaru did very well on Mobil 1. I only have 40 k on the Smart car with the Pennzoil. It looks like it will do fine with 7 k filter changes.
John Frantz got his start adapting the old canister filters to use superior toilet paper.. I just adapted a Stock Ford canister filter for a V8 flat head Ford to use Scott 1000 TP. It went on my 79 Ford 1900 diesel tractor. A Ford filter should go on a Ford. Bought the tractor as a project. Started with a superior oil filter. Used a Perma Cool universal sandwich adapter that is normally a oil cooler adapter. Not sure Frantz still makes 2 port sandwich adapters for motor oil..I think I got lucky. The full flow filter had nothing big in the pleats when I cut it open.The Perma Cool universal sandwich adapter is for oil coolers. Work the same for bypass filters. Only fit small filters. Got it from JEGS years ago. It has two ports for pressure and return. Used one for the diesel tractor. The flat head Ford V8 filter heated up today. The Scott 1000 was a perfect fit. The Ford canister filter is a little larger than a Frantz. Instead of the clean oil going to the fill cap it goes to the inlet of the full flow filter. The Sandwich adapter must use 3/4 16 thread full flow filter such as most Fords. I had a Fram Tough Guard on the shelf. I think the canister filter was optional equipment.on the Ford. The best element was cotton.
Added bonus if you're stuck in the middle of nowhere and you need to take a shit, rest assured you have toilet paper under your hood.
Ew! the skid marks that would leave... Maybe a spare roll- If you use Scott 1000, you do have 20 to 30 raps of it to remove in order to fit.
Scary thought, one of the cars I bought had 3 toilet paper rolls in the glove box.
I was removing 30 rounds from the Great Value 1000 from Walmart to fit my filters. The Last I bought was the same size as what we used in the 60s.and the core was larger.with my filters I just slid in the TP and put on the top.The old 50 year old Motor Guards were bad about pinching the last sheet.Not with the new Great value. The last sheet is glued. The Motor Guard elements are taped. Was reading that they are making the roll smaller and the core larger to save paper Always a toilet paper joke.
It was easy in the 60s. Lots of room under the hood. I did a few Lincolns. They were a packed suitcase but I could squeeze in a Frantz. That clamp could be a problem. I went with the top loaders in the 80s. The Australian Jackmaster Classic is good when you are in tight places. It is better suited for using toilet paper. The Frantz is set up for the Frantz elements. The Australian Jackmaster Classic elements are about 20 dollars. I use Great Value 1000 from Walmart in mine.
thanks man-what are you going to put that frantz oil filter on/good to have super clean oil all the time/an keep the engine from almost no wear from contaminents/a very good idea/thanks much
Slight correction needs to be made to this video. People need to be careful as this video might be slightly misleading. People need to still change their oil as recommended by the manufacturer. The reason for this is because you can deplete the oil additives your engine needs and still have clean looking oil. The oil might look clean but it no longer is protecting your engine like it should. The only way to know whether you have depleted the additive package is to send your oil in for regular testing.
You don't need to change the oil, just get an additive package
Or, like the title of the video says, use synthetic. Long life synthetics have longer lasting additive packages, and since you're changing your filter regularly and adding oil each time, you're contributing to the additive package.
I stopped draining the oil 60 years ago.Additives last a lot longer in clean oil. When you change the filter you add new make up oil. Some of these new cars run so clean the main reason you need to change the filter is to keep the additives up to specs Instead of spending money on oil analysis I can change the filter more often and add more make up oil. Nothing Brian said is misleading. I wouldnt call about 1 quart of analytically clean oil going to the oil pan a minute a trickle of oil. Thats about 60 quarts of oil a day being cleaned in my Pontiac. To me that means no oil changes and virtually no engine wear. Brian is wasting his time. Most people think engines will last longer if the oil is allowed to get dirty and be drained. The oil changers dont recommend Frantz oil cleaners or any filters that clean oil.
Jackmaster says our filters eliminate oil changes. Very true.
Watch out for some Frantz dealers that claim if you use the synthetic elements you can go 15.000 miles between filter changes.
One guy said he isnt going to put a 99 cent filter on his expensive pickup. At one time Gulf Coast Filters of Gulfport Mississippi installed Frantz 3 stackers on offshore drilling rig engines. These are locomotive engines and generators. Not sure when the famous Frantz 3 stackers went out of production or how much a locomotive engine cost. Might be even more than a Cummins in a pickup. You can still find Frantz 3 stackers on big marine engines. Mostly been replaced by the Gulf Coast filters which are easier to service.
Interesting idea. My first instinct was the concern about reduced flow from clogging, but because it's a bypass filter that is no issue. I'm glad you mentioned the fact you weren't compensated. These days, when authors don't mention it, I assume they were paid.
Your education and intelligence really shows Dave. Well said.
Did I remember your name right? It's been a while.
Yup, always fun to watch your videos, Thanks Brian.
Two of the good guys talking. Many thumbs up for that alone. This seems sensible, I'll read your links. Thanks.
You mean if you sell the filters your experience means nothing. Dont sell them now . Getting old.. I probably know more about TP filters than most anyone.Never had much interest in filters that dont clean oil.
I HAVE BEEN RUNNING FRANZ FILTERS FOR DECADES AND THEY ROCK.....
Brilliant, I think you forgot to factor in the convenience. Less mess, less fuss. And the big bonus, a cleaner running engine. It pays for itself in about 3 years & will save me about $80 a year thereafter. Pretty sweet.
Well said Larry, well said. I spent days preparing and studying for this video, but in the end, you can only make it so long and people still miss 60% of it anyway.
A guy on another forum said the Frantz worked good on his 59 Ford truck. He probably wouldnt use one now but he wouldnt bad mouth the Frantz. I cant imagine the nuisance of changing the oil. I normally like to put the orifice at the inlet so it will drain better at shut down. At least one hose needs to allow air to enter the filter so the oil can go back to the engine at shut down.. Cant have a low place where oil can keep the air from entering..I will probably put the orifice at the inlet on the Jackmaster Classic. It will drain better with the orifice at the inlet.It works better if air can enter the filter thru the return hose at shut down.
I put a .025 wire welder tip in a brass fitting and put it in the inlet. It drains good at shut down without air. Ive bought Frantzs with the orifice at the outlet under the screens. I believe the new ones are at the inlet. The Motor Guard on my old Ford 390 is over 50 years old. I would say it has paid for itself.
When I got back from town yesterday I checked my Australian Jackmaster Classic. It was hot and the oil is Golden. Sometimes when the weather is cold the toilet paper filters are just starting to warm up when I get to work with the .060 orifice.Dont know how the .025 orifice will work in cold weather. This is the Dallas Texas area. The Jackmaster Classic with the .025 orifice cleans about 3/4 quart a minute when the oil is hot. 10 w/30 synthetic. The orifice is a .025 wire welder tip in a brass fitting. The slower the flow the better the cleaning.
The .025 wire welder tip is actually about .045 . The standard size since the 1920s for bypass filters is about .060 or about 1/16 inch. I believe the big Gulf Coast 3 gallon filter has a 1/16 inch orifice at the inlet.
yup 2 microns are what we cleaned hydaulic oil to! the 2 year i worked therre we never changed it! still awesome oil!used it to fix a noicy servopump in a tempra ,2 changes late and 4 days in all ,no sounds and a perfectly working pump! sorry we cant use these filters here!!
Most people dont understand bypass filters and wont learn. I was putting a Frantz on a new 63 Dodge pickup. His brother drove up. He said if I knew you wanted a Frantz I would have given you mine. My oil is dirty and my lifters are noisy. He wss asked when he changed the Frantz last. He said change it The guy I bought it from said it would last a lifetime. The Frantz went on his brothers car.
looks great.
brian, if it's only 1 micron doesn't it filter good additives away too?
NO it does not, additives are sub micron
Not an expert on additives. When a sample of oil is analyzed you get a list of additives still in the oil. Dont use a oil that uses solids like Graphite.In the old days we had Arco Graphite. The Frantz removed it. No one told the Frantz to leave it in it was a good lubricant.The Frantz thought it was an abrasive. Of course the full flow filter couldnt take it out. TP cant take out the liquid additives also some diesel soot is non abrasive and too small to be filtered out. Its like ink. Black oil means nothing in a diesel.
Its not only additives. They can tell if something is wearing out. They know what the parts are made of. They know if the bearings are worn down to the copper. I got so used to amber colored oil in the gasoline engines I was shocked to see oil in the diesel that looked like someone poured ink in it. Lab analysis might tell you the dark oil is cleaner than when it was new. There was a time when I thought new oil was always clean.
Absolutely a terrific oil filter!!!
Im sure oil filter companies can design their off-the-shelf filters as good as that kit, but the truth is: the economy needs to keep flowing. They need consumers to buy products as frequent as possible.
Love your videos, you're awesome. My week would feel weird if i didn't follow up with ur channel
I don't know...I imagine the resistance through all that filter media (TP) would be impractical as a primary filter option.
+F!@#Guilt👆this
I met a French dude who was visiting the desert with his wife for a month. I asked how he could afford to do that and he said he gets like two months paid vacation. My mind was blown! My mind was further blown by how NICE and HIGH QUALITY his gear was. It was SO NICE! Not the Wallmart Ozark trail garbage you get here.
What I would like to see is a general slowing down of throw-away products and the huge race to cut, mine, burn, and melt resources as fast as possible and get them co-mingled and into the landfill and ocean as fast as humanly possible.
How about products that last? How about working 30 hours a week instead of 50? If you do both- your quality of life is just at good.
The reason for garbage bound products is the nickels that happen in the movement or sale of goods with a short product life cycle. That's nickels the consumer is losing every time they buy to taxes, shipping, warehousing, packaging-(SO WASTEFUL!), marketing, and sales. If you buy one nice fishing pole for $160 you'll enjoy it more and spend less than buying 20 of them for $20 each in your lifetime that break, fail, let you down, ruin your trip, etc. for $400. It takes more time at work not fishing to make $400 than it does to make $160.
You're exactly right. It just isn't necessary either. Tiny contaminants take time to produce with starting in the cold, driving in the heat and just lots of miles. This filter can remove in 200 miles what takes 7,000 miles to produce. So the by-pass concept is more than adequate and you keep your factory filter.
You're both right. That's why its' a by-pass system and that's all it takes to clean the carbon and tiny wear metals out.
Its clear from the haters leaving comments to debunk your Frantz Filter system. These people do not understand cause & effect as it relates to solid particles in your lubricant. Studies show that removing tiny particles, the wear is eliminated. This also extends the life of additives in the fluid.. I have this same unit on my diesel and it saved the engine from vandals. I put a Wix 51269 filter on an automatic transmission cooler line and had the same results, it polished the solid particles out of the fluid w/o replacing the transmission.. The particle count on my (diesel) engine oil was reduced from 18/17/14 to 16/15/12 by using the Frantz, changing the oil did not purge the contamination from the oil cooler.. Nearly all commercial vehicles have some type of bypass system to clean the oil by removing abrasive soot, the systems are also OEM due to warranty claims. Automakers want to sell new vehicles and demand this technology is pointless, Dodge will argue aftermarket add-ons void the warranty LOL!
Ive read letters from makers of heavy duty engines that said pretty much if you put a non stock item and it causes engine damage they wont pay for the damage. My guess is if you put a non stock full flow filter and it causes damage they wont cover it.. This could be the wrong oil a power chip. Exhaust brake. Many truckers have a oil analysis program and can prove the extended oil changes didnt cause problems. Big engine makers understand bypass filters. Remember the big bypass filters. Cummins used to claim a 80 % increase in engine life using the big Fleetguard bypass filters.Their 750 filters use pulverized newspapers and wood chips.
My 64 Rambler American had a spin on bypass filter bolted to the flat head 6. The oil was always dirty and black. I tossed it and installed a Frantz. The oil turned golden. Had the same junky assed bypass filter on a Mazda early 80s diesel. Installed a Frantz to clean the oil. Its like they dont want you to have clean oil. They wont get away from using pleated filters that have no value at cleaning oil.
If you are over the oil change recommendations and your oil is dirty. That is a lot different than being over the oil change recommendations and your oil is clean and you can prove it with an oil analysis program. I think one reason the big Gulf Coast filters can filter as good as toiler paper is the orifice is the same size as the TP filters. The oil soaks down thru the big paper towels. The oil pressure pushes the oil thru the TP. Charmin would filter as good as Scott 1000 if I could use a small enough orifice. 1/16 inch has been pretty much standard since the 1920s for bypass filters.
I put a .025 wire welder tip in a brass fitting and put it in the inlet of the Australian Jackmaster Classic. The slower the flow the cleaner the oil. Most TP filters use about a ..060 orifice. The Jackmaster Classic cleans about 3/4 quart a minute when the oil is hot. Might not work in cold weather short trips.
The .025 wire welder tip is actually about .045. Its for .025 wire.
I just put a Motor Guard M 30 on. lube. oil and a M 60 on on the tranny. 2006 Nissan Altima. Not much room under the hood. I removed the grill and installed the 2 filters. Then put the grill back on. Easy on this car. I stuck a 1/8 drill into the outlet and drilled a relief in case the TP gets clogged. These are compressed air filters that I tossed into engine cleaner to remove the epoxy coating. I left the coating on the Pontiac Torrant. For some reason every 100 or so the epoxy will turn loose of the aluminum. It wont dissolve. They do the same.with compressed air
I used a Perma Cool sandwich adapter for the engine. I doesn't matter which toilet paper filter you use.as long as the housing maker the oil go thru the paper instead around it. Motor Guard was the best at that. Not so important with lube oil bypass filters. Very important with compressed air and fuel. With those there is no second chance. I got my start with. Frantz. in 1963. They were 29.95 and people complained about the price.
I remember changing those filters on forklifts for years. At least 20 years plus.
I was a mechanic for Safety Kleen corporation. I had oil filters on everything. Gulf Coast filters on the fork trucks. Big Gulf Coast paper towel filters on the hydraulic systems and the yard tractors. Motor Guards on the instrument air. And Sky tracks. The only trouble I had with the Gulf Coast juniors is the captive nut in the glass filled nylon couldnt be tightened enough. Instead of putting in a thru bolt and flat washers I would go by and push the filters upright. I also had Motor Guards on the big air compressor lube oil. The special compressor oil was high dollar. The Nylon Gulf Coast filters took a beating on the lift trucks No springs and hard rubber tires.
Just noticed the Gulf Coast junior is laying down on the Farmall. H. Putting the captive nut in the nylon is a minor nuisance. A longer bolt and using 2 wrenches will fix that. Other than that its a perfect filter. Its the Hydraulic system filter. Dont matter what position its in. The Gulf Coast juniorc on the Gasoline on the F250 and the Farmall are upside down on the frame..
My dad used to use these on his commercial fishing boat and swore by them. Now that I think about it, I can't see why he doesn't have them on the current engines.
A Frantz dealer in Gulfport Mississippi put a lot of Frantz 3 stackers on shrimp boats and such. At some point the 3 stackers went out of production. Good filter for diesels but a mess to change.
The Frantz dealer in Gulfport Mississippi replaced the big Frantzs with bigger paper towel filters. He improved the little filters. I dont know how many times Frantz went broke. We also lost the FAA and PMA approved AeroFrantz. I believe Frantz had a 2 stacker a 3 stacker and a 4 stacker. Its a tough business . Most people think allowing the oil to get dirty then draining it is proper maintenance. Then you have the bull shit stories that come with toilet paper filters.
Did you ever do a follow-up on this video and overall what did you think of this product
I use the one you have on.your compressed air the Motor Guard. The name Motor Guard didnt come from compressed air filtering. They dropped the Lube oil filters years ago. When Frantz went broke years ago one of their dealers came out with an improved filter. They all do an excellent job of cleaning oil. The Gulf Coast is by far the easiest to service. NASA is using the filters now. A NASA engineer said these filters are only for industrial use. The car owner doesnt keep a car long enough to make it pay. We old timers got our start using Frantz. I notice the element is too loose in the housing. You have to be at least 80 with no teeth to know how to service a Frantz. I have a few Gulf Coast filters. Sister wrecked the old Impala. My last two Frantzs went to a salvage somewhere in Dallas tx. At one time in California you could find Frantzs on wrecked cars for about 10 bucks.
Ralph please make a conversion kit for the new motor guards. I really want to have one for my truck since it has a better clamping force and seal on the paper. I will be your first customer.
I dont do oil filters anymore. I recently bought a Australian Jackmaster Classic from Ebay. It is as good as the Motor Guard. They designed the Jackmaster to take tightly wound TP or their own elements. They have a larger seal at the bottom for 1 1/2 inch or larger TP cores. You just push in the TP and put on the lid. They dont have a center tube like the Frantz to put a spacer on. The TP core is the center tube .. The Frantz has been obsolete since Motor Guard came out in 1961. Jackmaster has been around since 1954 but I didnt check them out until recently. I got the Classic. The more expensive Ultra is suspiciously like the Triple R. They have all struggled over the years. Almost everyone thinks proper maintenance is allowing lubricants to get dirty and draining them. I paid 29.95 for my first Frantz and used Standard Delo 30 weight in 1963. Motor Guard came out in 1961. They came out with a compressed air filter and later dropped the lube oil filter. A Frantz dealer came out with a improved filter and replaced the Frantz 3 stacker with a Bounty big roll paper towel filter at some point when Frantz went broke. At some point the AeroFrantz was dropped. Saw some on crop dusters in the early 80s. There were no Frantz elements in the old days.We used 2 ply facial quality toilet paper. Single ply was loose wound crap. A lot of bull shit stories and jokes came with toilet paper.They are all trying to get away from being called toilet paper filters. John Frantz wanted a filter material better than anything else that was economical. That was a mistake. He didnt count on the liars and fools.
@@markm0000 I was getting the Motor Guards for about 75 bucks and converting them to use TP. Saw one for 175 bucks. You can get a Jackmaster for that that is already set up for TP.
@@ralphwood8818 I tried finding someone to make adapters for the motor guard but it was going to be way too expensive and I gave up. I have no means of making them myself even if I bought equipment. I will look for a Jackmaster and use that on my cars and trucks. It seems to be reasonably priced and has a better design than the Frantz. Thanks Ralph.
@@ralphwood8818 Hello again Ralph, I hope you are doing well. I checked online again for the Classic, but prices sure have gone up since my last comment. I like the design better how it doesn't rely on a tight center tube for fitment, as the roll dimensions can change a little over time. I like that it's also designed with components to handle hot oil. I bought a new style MotorGuard since that last comment to see it in person, and just couldn't figure out how to make it without spending a fortune. It's been sitting on the shelf in the box and I guess it's best to install it on my air compressor where it belongs. I wasted that money when I could have bought the right thing in the first place. The saying goes, buy once, cry once, buy twice, pay the price. It's funny to think the Frantz is a subpar design but because of the marketing and social media videos it's become the most popular. Thanks for testing all the different models from all those brands over the years to find the best canister design and share that advice to the internet.
@ 0:30 - Part No. FKCUM 59 ??? hahaha
It could have been 69 to make it worse. I saw that too.
he he he
Hello, I'm considering installing one of these systems in my vehicle (2008 caravan 3.3 v6) however, one concern I have is how well will this filter perform under cold weather conditions? I live in Michigan, and this season we've endoured many consistant days of negative sub-zero temperatures.... Alternately will the tp filter freeze solid such that it impedes the flow \ circulation of oil durring cold morning warm-up?
I'm not a huge scientist but an HVAC mechanic and 1 micron filter in any vehicle I would assume is a pretty big restriction on oil flow. Maybe because there's only a small amount of oil entering the canister that doesn't apply.... sorry racking my brain
I think you can have a very small 1 micron filter that has a surface area of 1 micron just like you can have a very large 1 micron filter that has a much bigger surface area. I think for an equal flow, the finer the filtering the bigger the filter.
Since theyre a bypass filter and not the primary filter it wouldnt cause an issue. Your oem filter functions normally. There's a pretty steady stream of oil that comes back through my return line after the Frantz so I dont think it restricts too much
So you are still pumping the 20-30 micron oil thru the engine and oil passages?
Some of it always will be, the bypass filter filters a portion of the oil, removing the preponderance of the particles. Statistically, there are none, but occasionally a couple might get through the engine before being picked up by the bypass filter.
That's why it's called a BYPASS filter and not a full flow filter. The way this works is simple, you normal full flow filter operates as always, it keeps 40-60psi oil flow at that as normal all that other filter gets is overflow pressure so way lower pressure as it goes through that filter, it's dumping it back into the oil pan. Even if that filter clogs up, it will NOT restrict you full flow path...
I remember those filters back in the 50's. a friend of mine swore by the system, but there were some that were faulty the toilet paper broke down and was allowed to pass threw the engine causing extensive damage. you must be careful using toilet paper because not all are cellulose if that would make a difference.
Don't experiment, just use Scott's 1000. Just buy a case and keep it on a shelf in your garage.
There has never been any toilet paper that caused engine damage. Paper doesnt break down in oil. It only gets stronger. I started in 1963 with a Frantz oil cleaner and Delo 100 W30. I thought Delo 400 replaced Delo 100. You can still find Delo 100 on line. I think it is only single grade for diesels. Beautiful oil when clean. It dont sell for 55 cents a quart now.
We used 2 ply long before we had Scott 1000 or Frantz elements. It was softer but it had the 1 1/2 inch core. You could normally use the whole roll if you knew how to get it in. Any 2 ply was good.
If you don't install the TP properly and change it out every 3000 miles you might have problems. But if you do it right you will have the best cost effective oil filtration possible other then a centrifuge.
The Frantz is a good filter. They arent set up for the newer paper. You can use it if you know how. My Jackmaster Classic you get the diameter right. Push the paper down against the core seal and put on the lid. You must use a firm roll such as Scott 1000 or Great Value 1000 because with soft paper core will collapse. They have no center tube. The Gulf Coast junior is similar. They depend on the bigger core seal at the bottom The only experience ive had was a Honda 305 motor cycle. It had a chain driven centrifuge inside the engine. I knew it was working because it packed the sludge so tight I had to dig it out with a screw driver. I had a Frantz on the Honda 500 custom.
Brian; ran one of the original Frantz oil filters on my 2nd Healey in the 60's. Never seen another since. Didn't know they were available. Warrantee, schwarrantee! Manufactures suck.
Did religiously, oil samples on my semi's all the years I owned them. Money well spent (cept the local Cat dealer lost 1 of 3 so i changed labs...)
One of the reason Cat engines are so awesome and last so long is they have some of the best filtration ratings on their filters. I know many Cummins owners that run the Cat fuel filters with adapters.
same for Duramax engines, tons of guys running the 2 micron cat fuel filter. i have also a FASS 150 on my truck and the Donaldson fuel filter is a 2 micron
A big pleated paper filter will beat a little pleated paper filter anytime. The famous Frantz 3 stacker will beat any of them. Especially if you feed it with one orifice instead of three. You can still find them on marine vessels. I saw two on a truck with a 8V 71 Detroit. The guy said he gets a 6 pack of Safeway Truly Fine to service them. That was in the 80s when TP fit The Frantz and was tighter wound.. Now about the only paper that fits the Frantz is the Frantz elements.one mistake people make putting a little TP filter on a diesel is they go too far between filter changes. Shouldnt go over 3.000 miles.4 inches of.filter media is better than pleated paper.but they aint magic. A tightly wound roll of TP is a 1 micron filter. I was putting a Frantz on a Chevy Luv about 40 years ago. I noticed a little Frantz bolted to the frame on his over the road truck. I said that filter is too small for that truck.He said no its not I change it every day. Well excuse me.
The big spin on fuel filters cant compete with the Frantz or other TP filters. Also they tell me they cost about 20 bucks. The orifice helps and the large size helps. Its still pleated paper up against 4 inches of TP. I dont think they can eliminate oil changes like TP. They are pretty much just a full flow filter with an orifice. Like my 64 Rambler flat head 6 that was factory installed. You cant clean oil with pleated paper. Some are putting the big 1 1/2 gallon Gulf Coast filters on the Cat engines. I did a fleet of Navistars. Some of the big Gulf Coast filters had a General Motors part number. When I sold them they used Bounty Big roll paper towels. The ports were different on the GM filters for mid sized GM trucks. A little trivia for you.
I once used a paper towel system on my big rig. To answer some questions about dissolving paper, only if you are getting water in your oil. If you want to use a off the shelf TP make sure it is lint free(dust free) as possible.
The oil protects the toilet paper from water. If your tp gets soggy or gets cracks in it it means water. Normally dont have a water problem unless you arent driving enough at operating temperature for the PCV to remove the condensation or the oil is getting coolant in it.
One time I noticed the oil was getting milky on the Rambler. That means water. I drained the oil and changed the oil and the toilet paper. With water the toilet paper will feel soggy.
I converted a flat head Ford V8 canister filter to use a roll of Scott 1000. The other day I removed the spacer and put half a roll of paper towels in it. I like the VIVA in the Ford diesel tractor. If Gulf Coast filters can use paper towels on heavy duty diesels I should do fine with my little Ford diesel. I might cut a roll of VIVA for the Jackmaster Classic on the Pontiac. I can mark a roll and go around a few times with a fine toothed hack saw.
Im not as smart as some of these geniuses that know about molecular sizes. I let the oil companies worry about that. I try to keep it clean. Since I have some common sense I will put the end I cut up. The only filter I have that filters from the bottom up is the old 60s model Motor Guard on the F250 390 engine.
Found out I can cut the VIVA towels a lot smoother with a sharp knife. Did a fleet of trucks when the 6.0s firdt came out. These were tree service vehicles. The diesels took Gulf Coast 01s bolted to the frame. The gasoline engines took the Gulf Coast juniors. In those days they didnt put the Bounty big rolls or the janitorial supply toilet paper in bags.
Brian, how about an update video on the Frantz bypass filter? Still happy with it?
Doesn't look like it
Perhaps if used as a bypass filter in conjunction with a primary filter. I did however see a comment that motor oil, if not changed, gets thinner. It most certainly does not the viscosity actually gets thicker. Furthermore an oil change is not required during the warranty period. Under warranty law, if they warranty the internally lubricated parts of the motor for 36,000 miles, the only way they can make you get an oil change, is to offer it to you for free. And some automakers are actually doing that so that they can make you get an oil change. Quite often there is a race that runs from Paris to Hong Kong and these vehicles go over 40,000 miles without an oil change. The automaker's know that an engine will go 36,000 miles without an oil change and frequently a lot further.
Many years ago my uncle told me when he changes the oil in his 59 Ford it uses a quart then doesnt use any more. Actually a quart evaporated.Multi grade oil wasnt any good in those days. Couldnt use it in a diesel. All diesel rated oil was single wt.
I have overheated motor oil by idling all day with the AC on in hot weather. The oil will get thicker as it evaporates. The boss called it road tar. It was more like gear oil. Waiting to cement an oil well for example. Normally the trucks were never shut off all day...i wouldnt do my own cars that way.
Actually synthetic oil doesnt last longer than conventional oil. Oil filters dont make oil last longer. It is a good idea to keep it clean and not burn it up. A guy asked me how long has it been since you changed the oil in your home air conditioner. Good question.The oil is 22 years old.
First time I saw a TP filter was Okinawa, I purchased a used Corolla and it used TP for the oil filter media...many moons ago.
It's an old technology. It's just harder to charge top dollar for something that everyone is familiar with and can do themselves. Manufacturers hate it.
Got a message from Israel A guy said he remembers as a child watching his mother change the Frantz on the Volvo.
A realtor in Denton Texas asked me if it was too late to put a Frantz on his Toyota Corolla with near 100 k miles on it. Asked him how long he planned to keep it. He said a long time. I said it needs a Frantz. Years later my wife was introducing me at church. She said mr Biggs this is my husband. He said I remember Ralph. The Corolla has over 500.000 miles on it. Took the boy scouts on a camp out and they found the Frantz elements.
Cool video Brian. I had never heard of this. I wonder what Cummins would tell you about your warranty with the Frantz bypass filter addon?
I bet the engineers would be fine with the filter- just maybe not the long drain intervals.
I have read letters from the big heavy duty diesel engine .makers. anything non stock that causes engine damage will void the warranty. This could be a non stock full flow filter. A power chip. A non stock exhaust brake. Not following oil change recommendations. A salesman told a trucker the paper towel filter would void the warranty. The trucker said I will get a truck with a different engine. The salesman said wait a minute I will make a call. He came back and good news. It wont void the warranty. Some truckers dont drain their oil with the paper towel filters. They have an oil analysis program in case there is a warranty problem.
Actually it wouldnt be wise to have engine problems with a non Cummins full flow filter or a power chip. Many truckers wont run on dirty oil in an attempt to keep the warranty good. Clean oil comes first.
Dont know what they have now. I remember when the best oil filter you could get for the Cummins was the Cummins Fleetguard 750 or the Luberfiner 750 They used cotton the same as the bypass filter on my 41 Dodge. Later they went to pulverized newspaper and wood chips. They all hooked up the same as the Frantz. With an orifice and oil lines. I once worked for a company that wouldnt put a truck on the road without a Luberfiner.750.. old guys remember the big chrome plated Luberfiners on the side of the trucks.Same as the Frantz only a lot bigger..Then people started thinking they were only for dirty conditions such as dump trucks. No one liked to service the filters including myself. The TP filters are a piece of cake..
When they tell you anything non stock that causes engine damage isnt covered by the warranty some non thinkers think that means anything non stock causes engine damage. The big engine makers are familiar with big bypass filters. Luberfiner and Fleetguard 750s for example.
Seems like a great product. Thanks for the information.
1:40 in and im thinking this is a late april fools joke
Ha ha! I thought the same thing the first time I heard about this idea when I was in Middle School. It's legit!
I'm not sure I get it, is that seriously a toilet roll you buy from the shops or something you specifically order?
+briansmobile1 It doesn't help that the first time I heard it, it was April fools. lol
You order it for it to be exactly the right size and ready to go. Otherwise some folks use the gas station rolls or Scott 1000 and then unwind about 30 rolls.
Single or double ply?
J.C.Whitney back in the 60s and 70s sold toilet paper filters for cars, and like this, were replaced by you at a specific interval. I do not know if they still sell TP car/truck filters these days.
I believe JC Whitney sold a filter that screwed on in place of the full flow filter. They used about 1/3 rd of a roll of TP.Because TP is too dense to be a full flow filter a large bypass valve was always open when the engine was running.. It converted the full flow system to a bypass system. Like a Stilco or Trasco. Wouldnt be my choice. About 1965 I converted a race car mechanics Chevy 292 big 6 to a bypass system by using a Frantz oil cleaner and a Frantz adapter plate that replaced the full flow filter. He liked it because he always knew what was happening in the engine by what was showing up on top of the toilet paper. It was the tow rig. The mustang dragster needed a full flow filter. Baldwin furnished that. Valvoline furnished the racing oil.
(haven't read the other comments) but before the warranty is voided, they have to prove that the failure is due to the degradation of the oil (poor quality, lack of timely changing, loss of volume). Think autopsy and death certificate by qualified impartial technician.
Gulf Coast filters of Gulfport Mississippi specializes in heavy duty diesels. They have letters from heavy duty engine makers. Some heavy duty engine owners dont drain oil but they have an oil analysis program to prove that not changing the oil as recommended didnt cause an engine problem. Oil analysis is to check for engine problems not oil problems.
Yes now do a good install video of this Frantz as nobody has a real good one like you would do. I did not see the OEM oil filter adapter they used to sell with this kit which had the exit ports on it and the original oil filter would screw back on the adapter, maybe you shown it here and I missed it or are they reverting back to taping into the oil pan Idea?
Ive seen the adapter used in some videos on their site. I think its still used in certain vehicles.
You're right and you're in the know! The Cummins engine doesn't need the sandwich adapter because it has oil ports on the filter head you can pull a plug out and put a fitting into.
wow cool will look for that on my 96 1 ton Duelly Cummins Diesel...learn something everyday.
I still have a few old Frantz two port sandwich adapters.Sure beat tapping the oil pan. No diesel pickups in those days. There was an inlet and outlet . Frantz and Motor Guard also had 3/8 hollow bolts for replacing a intake manifold bolt on many V 8s Some of my lawn mowers have no way to get oil for the TP filters.I usr a Frantz Ford adapter. I put a pipe plug in one port. I only have one Frantz single port adapter. Its for a honda. I once returned the oil to the wrong side of a baffle on a valve cover on a Peugeot diesel. Wife was driving. I said slow this thing down. She said it wont slow down. It was running on motor oil. Got it off the road and stuffed a jacket in the intake. That was dangerous. Should have used a Frantz two port sandwich adapter on that car.or returned the oil closer to the fill cap. I see Jackmaster has two port sandwich adapters. I have used Perma Cool universal sandwich adapters from Jegs. They are for oil coolers..
The 2 port Frantz sandwich adapters didnt work on small engines. They depended on enough oil flow to create a pressure difference. I bought several Perma Cool universal sandwich adapters from Jegs years ago. The reason they work for a bypass filter is because a bypass filter acts like a restricted oil cooler. A spring loaded valve keeps oil going to the engine plus keeps pressure on the bypass filter. The Perma Cool universal has different size bushings to fit most small filter mounts. Only 3/4 16 filters will screw on the sandwich. Many Fords and Toyotas for example. Getting ready to put one on a Briggs and Stratton 22 HP riding mower with a 60s model Motor Guard. Put a Frantz on the gasoline.
I have used toilet paper filters for over 50 years. There are some others that are as good but the elements cost more than an oil change. As a rule of thumb if the element looks like toilet paper it will clean oil. The pleated element bypass filters are all junk. Cotton elements are as good as toilet paper if it is compressed. Not aware of any cotton element filters. available these days.
Just one thing. How do you handle disposal of this toxic stew you are extracting from your motor oil ? Does it go to land fill in your garbage, can it go someplace that incinerates ? You could run it through a burn barrel at home and what a smoke THAT would make. Really good electric cars are a way off yet but I like making my petro powered vehicle run its cleanest. At present I burn the paper products I generate from cleaning up after an oil change and grease jobs. Not as clean a burn as I would like though spritzing alcohol on the fire helps a small bit, much like adding alcohol to gasoline for that bit of cleaner exhaust.
Good question I have a 16 gallon container half full of oil soaked toilet paper. Safety Kleen corporation recycled them for me before I retired. Also have a drum of engine cleaner. Dont mechanic anymore.
Is this kit limited to only diesel engines? Thanks
You dont need synthetic oil. The Frantz has been around a lot longer than synthetic oil has been common. I started with a Frantz and Delo 100 w 30. Frantz had a lot better clamp in the 80s. It was at an extra cost. The better clamp was standard on the Gulf Coast junior. They went to the knob type later. Must have been cheaper.. my Jackmaster Classic needs a wrench I also need a pair of long nosed pliers to remove the used TP. The Jackmaster element has a fabric cover with a pull ring.
So you've been running this filter for a few months. How's it working out?
Maybe it wasn't all that it was chalked up to be
It didnt take me two days to know the Frantz was a good filter. The Delo went from black to golden in one day of driving Nearly new Rambler American.
Wait...it's a bypass filter...so it's still pumping 95% or more of the regular (23-40 micron) oil is still pumped thru the engine and journal bearings...the filter only trickle cleans...which means it extends the life by "slowly" removing the contaminants...but if it's still pumping the garbage thru...is it really extending the life of your vehicles engine? The only true way is to force all the oil thru the cellulose filter...and it would be WAY to restrictive to get any good oil flow to ensure proper lubrication...
I guess this would help on large engines with HUGE oil pans and gallons of oil being used for oil changes...but for most 5 quart cars...this isn't a economical solution.
Either way...thanks for the review...love your video's! Keep em coming!
Engines move a huge amount of oil, several to many gallons per minute. Your oil pump is capable of draining your engine in under 30 seconds generally. So, even if 5% of the oil is going through the bypass filter, all of the oil will go through the filter several to many times in an hour.
Clearly you know little about cars...at a 40 (warm) to 60psi (cold) on the full flow filter, that "slowly" filtering filter branched of that? Is still 8-11psi with the amount of oil an engine holds? It will be filtered within a good 20 min of driving ... Reason being? Most of the oil pumped is excess and returns directly to the crankcase through the oil pressure regulator valve.
With a quart or so of clean oil going to the oil pan a minute there wont be any dirty oil going thru the engine parts very long.
The Jackmaster Classic on my Pontiac Torrent came with about a .060 orifice at the outlet. Thats about the standard size. I put a .025 wire welder tip in a brass fitting and put it in the inlet. It cleans about 3/4 of a quart a minute. There is a chance the tiny orifice will clog. I check to make sure the filter is heating up. I also have a .025 orifice in the Ford canister filter on the Ford diesel tractor. I set it up to use Scott 1000. John Frantz put a Frantz canister in the larger Ford canister. I use only the Ford Canister. Lucky to find the flathead Ford V8 bypass filter. They were optional equipment. Cant get good elements for the Ford canisters now. The good ones used cotton or toilet paper. John Frantz didnt have 4 1/2 inch Scott 1000 toilet paper in 1953. He used the smaller 2 ply.
Its sad that so many people are so ignorant about something as simple as the oil system and keeping the oil clean. Its no wonder the oil change racket is so big. It takes some common sense. I drive mostly highway in the Dallas Texas area. You would need to make adjustments in cold weather short trips. When I sold filters some went to Norway and northern Canada. You need to run at normal operating temperature long enough for the crankcase ventilation system to remove the condensation and unburned fuel.
I use a differant brand than this on my tractor trailer, it holds 10 gallons of oil, I take an oil sample every 25,000 miles and only change it when the oil is dirty or contaminated. the furthest I've ran the oil is to 250,000 miles
+DaBossk yes but normally I only get about 100,000 miles per oil change, and presently I have 1,250,000 miles on the truck with no engine issues and all still original
But but but but..... your ADDITIVES will run out!!!
.You just push in the TP and put on the lid. The Frantz is a terrible Design especially for using TP. The Jackmaster Classic will need a wrench and some long nosed pliers to pull out the used paper. The Jackmaster Classic has a fabric covered element with a ring to pull out the element.
You dont need synthetic oil. In the 60s I used Standard Delo 100 30 winter grade. It cost me 29 cents at the discount stores. I didnt drain oil but I changed the TP and added a quart of new oil. Delo came in 20 and 30 weight. Of course there were no diesel rated multi grade oils in those days. We changed the TP and added a quart of oil at about 2 K miles. Delo was popular mostly because it was beautiful when clean.
Years ago I was talking about a Detroit series 60 with over a million miles on it with virtually no wear. Road King Magazine asked me for the owners phone number. They did an article on it. It used Shell Rotella 15 40 conventional oil and a Gulf Coast filter that used two Bounty big roll paper towels. Gulf Coast filters used Frantz 3 stackers until they went out of production.
Added note, I used the paper towel system in hopes of extended drain intervals.
I found that over all, money wise, it didn't hold up in the long run.
I don't see how you could make your money back on this either.
Thanks for sharing that experience. I've never used the paper towel type filters. Paper towels are nowhere near as dense as this cheap, hard, single ply TP stuff. Towels hold and lose way more oil, but just can't catch the little stuff as well.
Not everyone will. Like I said, it depends on how often you drain your oil a year, how much it costs you, and how long you plan to drive the vehicle. Here's a super easy way to find out → www.frantzfilters.com/calculate/
I think the real benefit is the superior filtration. If you have a look at the link to the Cummins Forum Brian put in the video it should explain the benefit. Even if you continued to change your oil as frequently as "normal", the reduced engine wear would more than counter the cost of the kit, extra quart of oil and the TP. How much does a new engine or rebuild cost? I'm seriously thinking of adding this to my 225K mile cummins.
My experience is with toilet paper filters. NASA saw my posts and started using the big paper towel filters. T he engineer said TP is better than paper towels. This is no surprise but the paper towels have the size advantage.The oil has to travel thhru 11 inches of paper 22 inches in the double roll model. They use the Big paper towel filters on the locomotive engines on Shell offshore rigs.shell oil loves them. At one time they used Frantz 3 stackers on them. I have no idea how many rolls of TP it takes to equip a locomotive engine. You dont want to change 10 Frantz 3 stackers. Ive done one
the old 50's G.M. trucks we order from J.C.Whitney cattalogs. those old trucks came factory without a filter.
Filters were optional equipment in those days and were all bypass types. On the chevy 6s the bypass filter was clamped to the intake manifold. In 1953 John Frantz came out with a container that allowed you to use toilet paper in them.Actually the origional Frantz was a canister similar to the new Frantzs It had a hole in the center so you could slide it into a larger Fram or other cartridge filter upside down. I won't get into the details on seals and washers. The Famous Frantz 3 stacker that you can still find on shrimp boats and such was a taller canister that took three Frantz canisters with three rolls of toilet paper. Saw one on Ebay.They aint cheap. Frantz also had a FAA and PMA approved AeroFrantz. Saw some on crop dusters in the early 80s. Read aircraft oil analysis . Dont know if Frantz still has oil analysis reports on aircraft oil. The aircraft filtersused the same TP we used in the cars.2 ply facial quality. .most of us use Scott 1000 now..I prefer the top loaders that are better equipped to use TP. Such as the Jackmaster Classic.
You must be older than dirt. I remember when Sears Roebuck sold Henry Js Short for Henry J Kaiser. Sears Allstate. You could go to an appliance store and buy a Crosley car. I had a Crosley radio. Some people saved money by.going to Detroit to buy a car.
The old cars used the optional equipment bypass filters that were a lot better at cleaning oil than what they put on cars now. Normally used cotton. When John Frantz converted them to use superior toilet paper they were even better. When they were converted to pleated paper they were crap.
If I'm going to go the expense of jerry-rigging a bypass filter system in my brand new truck under warranty it's NOT going to use a roll of 99 cent toilet paper, I'll use something a little bit appropriate for the job at hand, like microglass media in a spin on cartridge rated 1, 3, or 5 micron absolute. You can even add a Delta P switch and it will tell you when to change it so you can plan accordingly.
Where do you source a 1-3 micron microglass media element that is not cost prohibitive?
You could try eBay if you feel lucky, but any reputable hydraulic parts distributor should have them. Cheapest brand I know of is Norman Filters, their construction varies somewhat, but as long as it's not for any esther type fluids (brake fluid, skydrol, PAG oil, etc.) it doesn't make a difference. Glass media spin ons will have an "M" in the part number, like "303M".
Cheezy Dee
Thanks
You sound like a you get what you pay for guy.. I had the micro glass filters on a big compressor at work. They dont clean oil. I had a Motor Guard toilet paper filter on there to clean the oil. When I changed the micro glass filter I brought it home and put it on my Farmall H as a full flow filter on the hydraulic system . Its been on there about 20 years.There is a Motor Guard bypass filter on there to clean the hydraulic fluid. It of course uses toilet paper. You can get elements now as good as toilet paper for a little more than 30 bucks if that makes you feel better. I had 1 micron filter bags at work that could filter to 1 micron for about 5 minutes. It takes depth such as toilet paper.
When you mention TP filters you can always count on a corny joke or a fool that dont know anything about them but has an opinion.
Right now, they are unavailable. I'll keep checking. I been debating on this bypass filter or a center fuge bypass filter. Now, I hear the Centerfuge system takes all the good stuff out because it takes it down to a micron also. I live in beautiful Kingman, Arizona were it is very hot and dusty. I have a 94 5.9 Cummings in a 90 F250. I want the truck to last a long time. it has 250k on it now but want it to last longer. What do the kits go for? Does it come with the 94 oil cap too? Thank you so much! God bless you and your family.
The only experience I have had with centrifuges was on my 65 Honda 305. It was inside the engine chain driven. They were popular on Mack trucks. Your engine needs some new oil. When we change the filter we add makeup oil. Not sure what Mack recommends. I doubt that they remove additives. The Honda packed the sludge in the drum tight.
The only time I. drain oil is if I get a problem such as coolant contamination I changed the oil on my 64 Rambler because of a leaky head gasket. When. I buy a used car I will drain the oil. I like to know. What's in the crankcase. In the 60s I used Delo 100 and changed the filter about every 2000 and added a quart of oil.
I like my Frantz quilted so I can enjoy the go, Frantz brought to you by charmin!
Saw some Charmin 2 ply that was similar to what we used in the Frantz and Motor Guard before there was Scott 1000 or Frantz elements. The core was bigger and the paper was shorter. The top loaders can handle it. The Frantz depends on the seal between the tube and tp core
But doesn't motor oil acidify over time? What does this kit do for the pH? Or do you need to run an additive package?
When the Frantz filter element is changed there is a loss of about a quart/liter of oil and the TBN and additive package will be restored with the fresh replacement quart/liter of oil.
If the regular factory oil filter is also changed at the same time an addition 1-2 quarts of oil will be added to restore the proper oil level and replenish the additives.
With large class 8 truck engines with large capacity (24-48 quart) oil sumps the additive package can be restored with a container of additives available from CAT, Cummins/Fleetguard and several aftermarket sources.
The Frantz bypass filter system has been around over 60 years and has an impressive historical record.
The laboratory oil analysis proves it's effectiveness.
Thanks for the info. I don't think I need this product if I have to replace 1-2 quarts of 10 in the crank case when this filter is changed, on top of the $500 price of the kit....and toilet paper. It would be different if oil was far more expensive.
Michael Doerner
It is the depth filtration that removes the fine particle contaminates that a traditional oil filter does not along with the extended oil change interval that makes the difference.
Where I am located conventional oil is about $6 per quart and good synthetic is about $9-20 per quart.
To me, changing a 10-28 quart sump every 3-6K miles gets expensive.
If the oil change interval can be doubled and most wear causing particulates can be removed extending the useful life of the engine for the price of a bypass filtration system and the recurring expense of a roll of toilet paper every 6-12K miles the cost benefit is there.
This kit can help to keep the TBN of the oil up by removing water and contaminants. Water and contaminants causes the oil's TBN (reserve alkalinity) to decrease. However, this kit won't completely eliminate your OCI, since the oil's additives will still break down and the base oil will thin out. This filter can help extend your OCI when used with a quality synthetic oil though.
What caused acid to accumulate in the oil is using oil that doesnt neutralize acid and not adding enough new oil at filter changes. This is caused by going too far between filter changes or not having a filter that cleans oil.allowing oil to get dirty wear and foul the engine then draining it is a poor maintenance program. I know its what the oil changers recommend. Water causes acid we depend on normal engine temperatures so the crankcase ventilation can remove the condensation. Most good oils have an additive to neutralize acid.. If you have a diesel use a diesel rated oil. Not sure if a zinc additive will foul the catalytic converter. On a gasoline car..
Won't bits of toilet paper be moved into the oil ? I mean if you put it in water it dissolves a little
The TP just doesn't come apart. Partly because it's packed in tight for support, but oil does nothing to it aside from make it heavy. With the support of the screen and the low pressure though, it has nothing pulling it apart like if you held up a 6 foot strand of wet TP. TP's designed to get wet and not fall appart- unless it's special camper or RV TP. Don't use that here.
TP has to be perforated to tear conveniently. Pressure here is going sideways to the perforation.
When you pull out the used TP it should be strong and tear at each sheet. If it is weak and dont tear at each sheet it has been in there too long. The oil should make the paper stronger than new. Put bacon on a napkin and see what happens to the napkin. Oil does the same thing to toilet paper. Makes it stronger.
Ive used the TP filters for 60 years. Some of these fossils have used them longer. If the paper migrated into the oil system we would have figured it out by now. Some of the big truck filters use pulverized newspapers in their best elements. Luberfiner Fleetguard Wix. Would anybody say wont the pulverized newspapers get in the oil? Of course not.
If any paper got past the TP in my Jackmaster Classic it would instantly clog the tiny orifice.. i have a habit of checking my filters to make sure they are heating up. The element for the Jackmaster Classic is in a fabric bag for those that have that worry.The new Jackmaster Classic comes with a element in a bag..There is a pull ring attached to the fabric. Peasants use long nosed pliers to remove the used TP.
Been running a Frantz in my 98 24V since I purchased it in 08. The inside valve cover surfaces are like brand new still. Easy way to lower maintenance costs. I'd like to add a filter to my auto tranny too. Do you recommend that?
Love your vids. Been checking out all your Dodge Cummins stuff, awesome! Dave.🆒
If you still got that truck then don’t bother with a toilet paper filter on the transmission. Just get an external can filter you can spin off every 50k miles and that should be enough. Automatic transmissions hate big chunks but the really small stuff doesn’t matter.
At one time Frantz had transmission adapters. I make my own. They go into the line to the cooler. It is 2 tees with an orifice in between. Gulf Coast might have the adapters.I think they use a 1/8" adapter. Frantz was a little smaller. The fluid hits the orifice and backs up. Part of the fluid goes to the Frantz .The clean fluid goes to the low pressure side of the orifice. My transmission book says to get a spin on filter mount and a high quality spin on filter. A lot less hassle. At any rate you will need to determine which way the fluid is flowing.
Ive been a clean oil fanatic for 60 years. My Farmall H has a Chevy 4 cylinder engine with a Impala automatic. The Impala has a decent stock filter in the pan. It has a Motor Guard TP filter to keep the tranny and the stock filter clean. The 76 F 250 Ranger has a Gulf Coast filter on the tranny. The Ford has a lousy screen the same as the Nissan Altima. The Motor Guards are in front of the radiater. I remove the grill to change the toilet paper. Normally i dont change the TP after the first change. The TP will turn grey. I wired the Motor Guard transmission filter to the top of the 3400 Pontiac engine .The Jackmaster Classic is wrapped in pastboard and is in a low place.Getting hard to find a good place on some of these cars. The Atf filter on the 93 Subaru Legacy is just laying on some hoses. Good place for a Motor Guard on the lube oil. Used a two port sandwich adapter on it
The automatic transmission is a precision piece of equipment the same as the engine. Of course the small stuff will wear the close tolorance parts. The question is it worth the extra cost of a superior filter. All I have on my transmissions is old tp filters that I bought when they werent so expensive.
Not Mobil 1 oil filters. There is no paper in it. It is made from synthetic media for better and longer lasting filtering.
Ive always had to change the TP filters more often because I dont drain oil. I was wondering why you couldnt use 20.000 mile oil and a 20.000 mile full flow filter and a TP filter and change everything in about 20.000 miles.or check the oil and see if you can go farther. Some with lesser bypass filters are doing that sort of thing.
Toilet Paper? You got to be "shitting me!"😆
Original Frantz company claimed 1/10th micron.
Ive used toilet paper filters for 60 years. Ive heard claims 1/100th of 1 micron to 5 microns The Australian Jackmaster Classic claims 1 micron if you use their elements. They use a very tightly wound roll of toilet paper in a bag. They put about a .060 orifice at the outlet. On my Jackmaster Classic I put a .025 wire welder tip in a brass fitting and put it in the inlet. I know there is danger of the small orifice clogging but my engine is pristine. I make sure the Jackmaster Classic is heating up. The Jackmaster Classic and the Gulf Coast junior are my favorite filters. All of the toiler paper filters are good.
Toilet Paper?
Who knew?
Most every filter on a car is make of paper of some kind. Most have to be thick and restrictive due to pressures. This is low pressure and slow flow so TP type paper is perfect. Lots of filtration layers. No rush.
There are no full flow filters that clean oil. A full flow filter that could clean oii would be too large to go under the hood. There are no bypass filters that can filter fast.
I didn't see any bypass on that filter. What If it gets clogged?
it is a bypass filter by design. It just takes some of the oil and runs it through the TP filter on the side IE in parallel with your oil pump. If it fails to flow nothing happens except you don't get that additional filtering.
The bypass filter is putting a small stream of clean oil in the oil pan until all the oil in the engine is clean. If you neglect the bypass filter the stream of clean oil will stop going to the oil pan.
Actually the Frantz works the same as any bypass filter for the last 100 years except it is better at cleaning oil because it uses toilet paper. The old cotton filters like on my 41 Dodge was almost as good. My 37 Studebaker book said it wasnt necessary to drain the oil except for seasonal reasons. Change the oil filter when the oil looks dirty.on the depth guage.(dipstick). They had a bypass filter that worked the same as a Frantz but wasnt as good.
To young guys seasonal reasons meant going to thin oils in the winter and thicker oils in summer. No multi Grades in those days.
I put a .025 wire welder tip in a brass fitting and put it in the inlet of my Australian Jackmaster Classic. It cleans about 3/4 quart a minute and sends it to the oil fill neck when the oil is hot. How this will work in cold weather short trips I dont know. I mostly operate in warm weather highway. This only works when there is no leakage around the toilet paper.
Brian, install one as a video. Screw the mothers, they're always looking for warranty
outs anyway!
I know this video is seven years old. What does the front, rear, left, right mean on the oil sample form? Thanks.
Is it a bad thing to put motor honey in every oil change: even on a good motor with no oil consumption. Will it help a motor really last longer.
It's not helping really. It could restrict oil ports. It's generally not a good idea.
When I worked in a Standard full service gas station they said good oil dont need.extra additives. Someone asked why do we sell them. The instructor said because people buy them.We were mostly sales people.People would take the air filter off and pour STP through the carburetor We didnt go that far.
My wifes car a 2015 Honda Accord calls for 0 20 motor oil. Probably wouldnt take much oil thickener for me to get a call. My car quit running.
I have a question i have a toyota camry 08 and i have 81,000 thousand miles on it should i start using syntetic oil on my car to protect the engine
yes
I went to synthetic oil at 225.000 on my 93 Subaru Legacy. It has 238.000 miles on it now.. Its a backup car now. Still dont use oil.
When I was selling the Frantz in the early 80s a guy asked me if it was too late to put a Frantz on his Corolla with about 100.000 miles on it. I asked him how long he planned on keeping it. He said a long time. I said it needs a Frantz. Years later my wife was was introducing me to a realtor here in Denton Texas. She said mr Biggs this is my husband.. He said I know Ralph. He put a Frantz on the Corolla. It has over 500.000 miles on it now. Took the boy scouts on a camp out and they found the Frantz elements.
Does the sandwich plate ( fitting between the twist off filter and engine block) come with the kit ?? As well as the quick release couplings for the return line? They don't say in the description secondly, i know for sure it does not include the aluminium oil cap you have shown there.. @ least for the universal kit anyhow...
At one time Frantz had two port sandwich adapters. A piece of cake. A port for a hose to the Frantz and a port for the return. They didnt work so well for small engjnes. Not enough flow. I have used oil cooler adapters from Jegs The Perma Cool universal. When I bought a Australian Jackmaster Classic from Ebay I noticed they had a bunch of sandwich adapters. I didnt need one.I converted a two port to a one port sandwich and returned the clean oil by tapping the plastic oil fill extension.Pontiac 3400. Also noticed the Jackmaster Classic has dropped in price The 93 Subaru Legacy has a Perma Cool universal sandwich adapter that I got from Jegs years ago. They are for oil coolers. The clean oil from the Motor Guard goes into the inlet of the full flow filter.
I'm just here for the Great Cornholio jokes.
The table top display at 2.50 would be something I would like to make. What did you use for the pump to move the oil from the dirty pan/bucket to the regular filter then out to the Frantz filter. Got any plans on how you made it.
I didn't make it. They built it as a demo piece.
Back in the 60s Frantz and Motor Guard had beutiful demo units in a sewing machine box The unfair thing about them was the only filter that were as good were each other. Pleated paper filters cant clean oil. You wouldnt put a Australian Jackmaster where the spin on filter is. Frantz stuck with that obsolete design and got left behind. Hard to find TP that fits now.. Jackmaster claims their elements are better than TP but they set up the filters for TP for we peasants. Push the paper down against the bottom and put on the lid. A piece of cake. The Jackmaster has a way to pull the fabric covered element out. Peasants need long nosed pliers.
The last demonstration machine I bought from Frantz used a water fountain pump and a gasoline valve like you switch from one tank to the other. Rather crude compared to the origionals of the early 60s. The valve is on the old F 250 now..
Just installed one of these on my caravan... Took a reading on the dipstick prior to and after installation, both were good. Now after i ran the vehicle a couple miles, the dipstick shows more than a qt low!!!! ... Any ideas? Thanks.
Jaymoe69 i guess the frantz filter fills up with oil after starting engine and remains full as oil filters through it, so that's where your missing quart is on the dipstick. It's not rocket science!
When I put a Motor Guard on the wifes 66 VW beetle I had to tilt it so the big pieces of metal wouldnt go back in the engine at shut down. The Motor Guard filtered from the bottom up. Frantz recommended putting the Frantz upside down on the beetle. The beetle came with no filter. I believe before I met her she was getting the oil changed about every 1500 miles. Never got another oil change.I brought a new Motor Guard to our next date. Those piece of crap engines could last a long time with clean oil and frequent valve adjustments.
I have seen those before. but didn't know anything about them. I'm glad you reviewed it. but t.p. it looks like they would at least make their own brand. does it matter what kind of paper you use? is it just the cheap single layer stuff. and I guess you can't reuse use the paper. what would be the point of wiping with oily paper.haha.. but great review. now if they could find a way to get that kind of fuel mileage! how much psi is required to push the oil through the paper? is there a minimum psi before it will work properly?
About the only paper that fits the Frantz is the Frantz elements. When I bought my first Frantz the grocery stores were full of 2 ply facial quality TP. In the 60s single ply was loose wound junk. We used 2 ply facial quality. Havent used theFrantz in years. Getting hard to find paper that fits the Frantz. The problem is the larger cores. Frantz needs a 1 1/2 inch core. People are putting spacers on the center tube so that they can use the bigger core TP. About the only paper that fits now is the Frantz paper. You could find 1 1/2 inch core Scott 1000 a short time ago. The same for Great Value 1000 from Walmart. The top loaders dont care what size the core is. Jackmaster has a 2inch core seal. The Frantz core seal is also too small. Motor Guard Gulf Coast junior and Jackmaster put some thought into making filters that are easy to service. Frantz is a terrible design. The paper companies wont make paper to fit the filters. The filters will have to fit the TP. Of course the filter makers are having TP custom made to fit. I get mine at Walmart. Im a TP squeezer. Ive never had an engine that doesn't have enough oil pressure for TP. If my oil light comes on at a stop sign I would find out why.
Brian has the Frantz element. The core is 1 1/2 inch. Notice the core seal imprint around core. People are putting a spacer on the tube so they can use the.bigger TP tube.The top loaders use a larger core seal. You can also get TP that fits for 30 bucks or more. The Frantz element is probably more economical. Havent sold them since the 80s.You do what you gotta do for 100% clean oil 100% of the time. Saw on Ebay the Jackmaster elements cost about the same as the Frantz elements. Of course you have the shipping cost from Australia.
Seems like a good idea. Now would this pull out debris that an oil test would would warn you about upcoming issues? Consistent oil tests will let you now when something changes in your oil. If this filters so well I wonder if oil analysts would still be for warning.
Chances are it would hide history of a problem, but it would also help curtail that problem too. Those little tell-tale particles serve as a warning, but they also attract and gouge out more particles too.
I have an old instrument that passes an electric current thru a used oil sample.It is zeroed on new oil the same as what is in the engine.its like for big diesels engines. Dirty oil conducts electric better than clean oil If the reading is too high a sample goes to the lab. If the instrument pegs out the engine is shut down first. Some engineers on these drilling rigs have a good idea what is happening before a sample goes to the lab. To me the oil is either dirty or clean.
Its amazing. On an over the road truck for example oil analysis can tell you your air compressor is wearing out so you can change it before you get stranded. They know what is wearing out by what kind of metal is showing up in the analysis. I put a Frantz oil cleaner on a race mechanics truck.that he pulled the race car with. I used a Frantz Adapter that eliminated the full flow filter. He could tell by what was showing up on top of the toilet paper the condition of the 292 big six Chevy engine. A long time ago. 1965.
I would do this if I didn't think it restricted oil flow at start up. One purpose of an oil filter is to help oil flow to the top of the engine faster at startup. 75% of engine wear happens at startup. Maybe I'm wrong about restrictions to oil flow if it has 2 oil filters and more oil.
Yes. No... The tiny pinhole is shown at least twice in the video. There's no way in hell you would get the same oil flow in the Franz as you get in the stock filter. Small amounts over time.
It does NOT restrict oil flow to the engine. How does an oil filter "...help oil flow to the top of the engine faster at startup"? That statement is completely false.
A lot of wear does happen at startup. Probably more than that. Hard to tell because the majority of the rest of the wear is caused by contaminants that bypass the regular filter entirely. At cold start or high revs the bypass valve opens and lets oil bypass the filter. Not to be confused with the filter kit mentioned in the video which is a BYPASS filter. This means it only takes a small amount of oil and filters it and then dumps it back into the crankcase. It just runs off oil pressure like any bearing. So the regular filter still does most of the work and can still let contaminated oil into the engine at cold startup.
The Wix full flow filter on my Pontiac Torrent has been on there for 60.000 miles and over 4 years. The TP bypass filter keeps the oil engine and Wix clean. If the full flow filter bypass valve opens there will be no dirty oil going to the bearings. The Motor Guard kept every thing clean. I took off the Motor Guard to try the Jackmaster There wont be any difference. They are both capable of eliminating oil changes and engine wear..And are easy to service. The Gulf Coast junior is the same. With its glass filled nylon canister and stainless steel hardware its advantage is salt water marine use when I was selling filters I recommended changing the full flow filter every 2 years. The bypass filter protects the full flow filter. Neglect the bypass filter and every thing goes to hell. Some of the old Frantz and Motor Guard users never changed the full flow filters. Motor Guard and Frantz also had adapter plates that eliminated the full flow filter..
Im not convinced 75% of engine wear is caused by starting the engine. One bypass filter company claims 99% of engine wear is caused by dirty oil. I dont know. I do know some oil stays on the engine parts when you shut off the engine. Best if that oil is clean.
My experiment with going 65.000 miles without changing the full flow filter is over. Cut open the standard WIX. The pleats were rotten but still in one piece. Put on a larger WIX XP. I know it is working good because nothing is showing up on top of the toilet paper in the Jackmaster Classic Im told the WIX XP has synthetic pleats. The pleats have a wire backing. One thing about the Jackmaster Classic I like is I can remove the lid to see if the full flow filter needs changing.
Toilet paper is not stabilized by any resin or polymer. So any water in the oil, and there's lots from blow by, will block and paper filtration.
Because of the use of resin in "real" filters there not affected by water.
That toilet tissue filter is, exactly what the many relevent puns would imply
Filled with oil, the filter will hold also a couple ounces of water.
Also, these same filters are used for coolant filtration, rendering your argument...... inapplicable.
Some people use T P as a pre filter to make their expensive activated charcoal water filter last longer. You would need a Glass filled nylon Gulf Coast junior filter for that. Read about that on a Trawler world forum years ago. I put one on my Ford diesel. I thought my cooling system was clean. The TP lookes like it came out of a mud puddle. More trouble than its worth. You put tees in the heater hoses Read a letter from the marine base in Okinawa I believe. They use a Gulf Coast filters portable system. They go from equipment to equipment cleaning the cooling systems. They add additives as needed.Gulf Coast has a picture of a portable system on their web site. They do a lot of military. Not just cooling systems.
The real filters dont clean oil. The real filters remove the large engine damaging abrasives and allow the smaller engine wearing abrasives to build up in the oil until you drain it or install a depth bypass filter. We depend on oil temperature and the PCV to remove the water and unburned fuel..It goes out the tail pipe.The ignorance is hard to believe. It aint rocket science. The oil stabilizes the TP.
When I change the toilet paper it is strong and tears at each sheet. If the used tp isnt strong it has been in there too long. If the tp gets rotten because it has been there too long it will stay in the housing. If a full flow filter pleats get rotten they might break down and leave the housing. I dont have a habit of neglecting filters.
Is this only for Diesel?
It's for engines that use oil.
Also need an oil pump.when I bought my first Frantz in 1963 all we had was gasoline powered pickups.Frantz instructions covered most American cars and the VWBeetle. Some put them on Harly Davidson and Model A Fords..Dont know how they did it. The Frantz on my 70s Honda 500 Custom was the same as a car
Ya, but can u use it on a car? I don't have a truck
Short answer is yes.
You will need a way to tap into the oil pressure. This could be a tee at the oil pressure switch or a pipe plug. And a way to return the clean oil like to the oil pan. In the old days all we had was hose and fittings and a self tapping hollow bolt. The biggest challenge is finding room under the hood. Sometimes I leave the filter in the box and put it in a low place.without the bracket.. They are all different. On the Pontiac Torrent I used a one port sandwich adapter and returned the clean oil by drilling and tapping tho oil fill neck extension 1/8 pipe. I tapped under the fill cap on the Altima 2.5. Also used a one port sandwich on the Altima. I still have a few adapters made by Frantz over 50 years ago. I see the Element fits in the demonstratiion. Looks like a Frantz element. Hard to find TP that fits the Frantz. These days. Yes Brian has the Frantz element. TP custom made for the Frantz. See the core seal imprint around the TP core.
There are kits that are just as good for much cheaper. Shop around people.
The Frantz is a good filter. My best filter for tight places is the Australian Jackmaster Classic. I started with a Frantz in 1963. I prefer the top loaders. They are better suited to use tp. Just push the tp down against the bottom and put on the lid. My Ford diesel tractor has a flat head Ford V8 canister filter that I adapted to use Scott 1000. Havent used the Frantz since the early 90s. Lousy design but they cleaned oil. The Ford filter doesnt always drain at shut down. I put a tubeless tire valve in the lid to push out the excess oil before changing.
There are a lot of good bypass filters to choose from. I dont plan on paying 20 dollars or more for something as good as toilet paper. I have too many TP filters for that.
when I was working on my motorcycle and draining the oil a lot I noticed when I let the oil sit in a gallon jug all the impurities would fall to the bottom and the oil was clean. is that like a way to renew oil or something? just let it sit and pump the clean stuff off the top?
Many oil pans have something to that effect. There are also magnetic oil drain plugs that hold ferrous metals in the bottom to keep them from going wrench in the works. That's litterally the concept behind this filter- trap the glitter and remove it from circulation while you drive.
+briansmobile1 my uncle was telling me something about oil breaking down.. does that just mean it gets dirty or does the chemical makeup change or something?
Actually you are doing the same thing as a centrifuge it just takes longer
My oil doesnt break down. I avoid getting it too hot and I avoid allowing it to get dirty. The oil in my A/C is over 20 years old.
I put a Frantz oil cleaner on my Honda 500 Custom. I converted the canister full flow filter to a Ford spin on.used a Frantz sandwich adapter. Returned the clean oil to a plug similar to a valve adjusting plug.hung the Frantz upside down back behind the saddle bag. A motorcycle club at San Jose California had Frantz oil cleaners on their Harlys. Better than putting it in a jug LOL.
Would this cause too much of a flow restriction and possible excessive wear on the oil pump given that the pump is having to draw the oil not only through the stock filter, but also the add-on filter (especially given the small hole and dense filter cartridge)?
Not at all. It's a separate circuit of the oil. It can block off completely and your main filter and it's business will just continue. This takes just a tiny bit of oil out of circulation- cleans it thoroughly and then puts it back in.
Cool. Thanks for the info and the prompt response to my inquiry.
Bypass filters have been in use for a hundred years. They all hook up the same as the Frantz. They came out in the 20s and were optional equipment. My 41 Dodge came with a Fram with a cotton element. John Frantz invented a adapter that converted the Fram and other canister filters to use toilet paper. My 64 Rambler American flat head 6 came with a factory installed bypass filter upside down on the head with steel oil lines. To clean the oil I removed it and installed a Frantz. Recently got in a Australian Jackmaster Classic. Just my opinion but I thinl it is the best available if you are like me and use toilet paper. I have been using Great Value 1000. The Jackmaster Classic is designed for tightly wound toilet paper or you can pay up to 30 dollars and more for the factory elements. They have a 2 inch core seal. No I dont sell filters now. Ive used and sold all of them. They all clean oil if they use toilet paper or something that looks like toilet paper. Correction. I have sold all of the main ones Frantz Motor Guard Gulf Coast Jackmaster. Another correction Never sold the Jackmaster Classic.
The oil pump pulls oil up from the oil pan and pressures up the engine oil system and the bypass filter. A relief valve in the oil pump sends what the engine and bypass filter dont need back to the oil pan. If your engine has a turbo its the same as the Frantz. Oil goes to the turbo bearing and back to the oil pan. The more the engine wears the more oil it takes to pressure up the engine. If the oil pump is worn out or the relief valve is stuck open you might not have enough oil pressure. The small amount going to the bypass filter or turbo bearing is nothing.
@@ralphwood8818 I appreciate the response and info, but you do realize I posed this question to the original poster more than 6 years ago, right? 😅
Can you use this on a Duramax engine or even a gas GM Vortec???
6.6L GMC & Chevrolet Duramax Kit
not for 2017 or later models
$415.95
In the 60s Motor Guards sold for 29.95. Grand auto parts in San Jose California one time sold obsolete Motor Guards.for 12 something. With hose and fittings. They put a loose screen in that got thrown away with the used TP. It looked like part of the used TP.. Looks like Frantz did a loose screen on the new model. What were these people thinking.
When I bought my first Motor Guard oil cleaner for the car it was the latest model. I didnt know it but the demonstrating machine I bought had a loose screen in the top. Everything worked fine until I changed the TP. When I started the machine the gear pump tripped the circuit breaker for a bunch of venders at the flea market. The Motor Guard filtered from the bottom up.. The screen covered a orifice at the top. The screen came out with the used paper..I think Grand auto parts was selling the screen models. Hell boy I can get a Motor Guard for 12 dollars at Grand auto parts. I was selling them for 29.95. Did I see a guy remove the loose screen from the TP on the new model Frantz.
You would think Frantz would have choosen a different part number....just an observation..
I KNOW RIGHT? It's something you'd see in used car sales back-of-house in jest.
Is filtering down to 1 micron enough to turn the oil colour from dark back to clear/golden?
@@ralphwood8818Thank you!! I really wanted to know before I fork out for a bypass filter. I was so disappointed after changing my oil and seeing it go dark again so quickly
The Frantz is a bad design but they are the best known. With the top loaders its push the paper down against the bottom and put on the lid
Dont know of any filter that can keep the oil in a diesel from getting black. Some diesel engines take longer for the oil to get black. The oil can be analytically clean and be very black. My Ford diesel tractor for example. My oil filter is as good as you can get. It is a flat head Ford V8 canister filter converted to use a full roll of Scott 1000. At present time it uses a cut down roll of VIVA paper towels. 4 1/2 by 5 1/2 inches. I mark a roll of towels. When the towels get used down to 4 1/2 inches I cut then to make two 5 1/2 inch elements.
@@samwest3762 when I put a Frantz on my nearly new 64 Rambler American flat head 6 the oil went from dirty and black to golden. I expected the same with the Peugeot diesel. It aint going to happen. Its like filtering out ink. Im pretty good at determining if the black oil is still clean. Ive been at it for a long time. If the oil is dirty it will feel dirty and will stain the skin. One guy said he checked the dipstick after an oil change. He went back and accused them of not changing the oil. They said you must be new at owning a diesel. Some engines take longer for the oil to get black. My Ford diesel tractor isnt one of them. I probably wont drain the oil but I will change the bypass filter often and add a lot of make up oil.
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thanks
any chance of an install video in the future?
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Absolutely. I hate the thought of other people working on my truck even if it is for free. I really LIKE the idea of preventing all the EGR system black death in my engine too!
What about the additives that are in oil? I thought that you change the oil regularly to make sure that your oil contains the various additives that are used up over time. Particulate matter is only one reason for changing your oil. Am I wrong?
No- you're not wrong at all. That's exactly right. Acids, PM's, and additive package can all play a factor. Using the right oil helps a lot. Not all oils are created equal. Synthetic oils have longer drain intervals because the additives and temperature characteristics are superior. Most people in Europe choose synthetic oil even though they pay a lot more for it than we do. It's cheaper in the long run and more effective and convenient.
The way it was explained to me is additives last a lot longer in clean oil. When you change the TP you are keeping the oil clean. When you add a quart of new oil you are replinishing the additives. One mistake some are making is they are going too far between filter changes. I have been guilty of that myself.
You dont need synthetic oil.In the 60s I used Standard Delo. Since it wa a diesel rated oil I assumed it had a healthy amount of additives. I changed the TP and added a quart of Delo about every 2.000 miles. Delo was about 29 cents in the discount stores. There were no multi grades for diesels in those days.
The Frantz is the prettiest of the TP filters. Better designed filters for using TP are here now. I use TP.. Hard to find paper that fits the Frantz. This filter has the Frantz element. My filters are all designed to use the new TP. Motor Guard Gulf Coast junior and Jackmaster Classic. You can buy 30 dollar TP now. My Jackmaster Classic is the best but it is green. Like you would put on an army vehicle. Thats where some are going. Jackmaster claims their elements are better than TP but you can use tightly wound TP..Frantz isnt set up for TP..
Preventive Maintenance Services in Urichsville is only about 45 min from me.
Right on!
you guys know this filter will restrict oil flow by probably 10psi. and probably more if you drive it hard.
No.
It's a bypass filter.
Bypass filters have been around since. the 20s. They all hook up the same as the Frantz Luberfiner Fleetguard 750 . Why did they start being a problem when TP was mentioned. Its amazing.
They have no effect on oil pressure
@@ralphwood8818 i promis you it will lower both pressure and volume. All you internet guys are the guys that think its ok to go 10k on a oil change because your owners manual says to and swear you have 1 billion miles on every car you own doing that. But in reality all the guys who work on cars for a living are replacing engines all the time in cars who's owner's do this sort of thing.
@@blue03r6 you dont understand how the oil system works but you have an opinion. What else is new. Allowing the oil to get dirty wear and foul the engine then draining it has never made any sense. An engine doesnt need dirty oil.
Question...can I use this bypass filter kit on a gasoline motor?
Yeah all oil is the same. Diesel branded oil just has more additives to help with the black soot.
I have TP filters on everything I own that has an oil pump including riding lawn mowers..
Some of the engines have no way to tap into the oil pressure.on the mowers. I use Frantz sandwich adapters for Fords 3/4 16 threads with Ford or Toyota spin on flters. You do what you gotta do for clean oil. Return the clean oil to the drain port.
When I started using the Frantz in 1963 engines were dirtier and oil wasnt as good. Modern gasoline engines almost dont need bypass filters. Im a clean oil nut case. My Ford diesel tractor needs the depth filtration. A lot of soot. The hydraulic oil lubricates the 12 speed transmission the power steering the loader and the three point hitch. The factory only put a strainer in the sump. Im told this tractor has hard to find parts that are very expensive.79 Ford 1900 3 cylinder diesel.
Put a KN full flow filter on the hydraulic oil and a Motor Guard tp filter. Both in parallel as bypass filters. Fed them with a orifice and needle valve with a gauge. If the Motor Guard cloggs up the fluid will go thru the KN and I wont get blown off the tractor by hydraulic fluid.
Brian's the type of nigga to ask for toilet paper at his local Auto Parts store
Could one put TP in a plastic tube,
plug the hole,
pour your used oil thru,
let it drain
and have clean oil to put back in.?
It could work in theory. Measures would have to be in place to keep it going through enough times to be clean. And you'd have to use or create means to keep it from making a mess to have it be worthwhile.
I once had a slightly elevated tank with used oil in it.I thougbt I can put a valve and hose on it and run the hose to the TP filter then to a clean container. Didnt work. Probably need 5 psi or more. You dont get the long engine life that way. It must be done on the car. Some large diesels have a computer that puts some oil in the fuel tank from the engine and adds some new oil. From a tank..
One guy does it but he elevated the tank a lot higher than I did.
@@briansmobile1 Mount the PVC tube above a funnel & an oil jug. Could pour it thru more than once I guess. No muss.
So does Charmin work better over Bounty? Or does it not matter?
They're both terrible choices. You want thin single ply cheap stuff. It's tougher and filters better. Think # of sheets like you would think folds per inch on a spin-on oil filter.
is it literally toilet paper or actual filter material?
briansmobile1
Ok, so the better it gives you a rash, the better it filters... got it!
Very cool video btw.
The Bounty big roll paper towels are what they use on heavy duty diesel engines. Things change but now Charmin wouldnt be as good for small engines as Scott 1000 or Great value 1000 from Walmart..The advantage of the Frantz elements is they fit. Peasants know how to adapt the Frantz to use the bigger core TP. The Jackmaster Classic is set up for TP. If you can find a used Motor Guard Gulf Coast or Jackmaster get it. Saw a used Jackmaster on Ebay for 50 bucks. People are grabbing them as more people learn about them. I guess TP is TP untill you put it in a canister. Then you have one hell of a filter material.
One guy called Guidpguitar was showing his VW dune buggy with a pristine engine. He was using loose wound TP. Normally you wouldnt think a loose wound roll of TP would clean as good as Scott 1000. The cheap loose wound paper was cleaning the oil but the contaminants were getting deeper in the TP like the Bounty big roll. Sometimes you can get fooled. When he showed us the valves I knew he was doing something right.
so I'm wondering, your car is on warranty, if you go over by 1 mile on your oil change, is your engine warranty now void? Pretty garbage.
No, not by 1 mile or 500 typically.
With a system like this owners of Cummins Engines are going 20,000 miles between drain intervals and their test results show the useful oil life remaining to be upwards of 60%.
A lot of users of these filters wont run on dirty oil to keep the warranty good..Clean oil comes first. Over the road truckers have an oil analysis program to prove the oil is good in case there is a problem with the engine. Oil analysis will also tell them if a repair is needed.
You repeatedly say 'ALL'; all the dirt, all the water, etc. when actually it's a miniscule amount; a percentage of the percentage that goes through the main filter.
You have a mind for detail. I really like that.
There is almost nothing in a modern engine motor oil large enough to be removed by the full flow filter. To remove the contaminants too small to be removed by the full flow filter we have oil changes or bypass depth filters. The bypass filters make a lot more sense. All I have now is top loaders with larger core seals for the larger TP cores.with the top loaders you push in the TP and put on the lid. The only paper that properly fits the Frantz is the Frantz elements..putting a spacer on the tube sucks. They keep changing the core size..with the top loaders the core is properly sealed Frantz needs to get their act together or they will keep going broke.
Just pop right out at me FKCum part number, genius, nuff said
what kind did you use on your plasma cutter?
I don't remember the name. I got it at the pro welding shop in town.
It's a Motor Guard. They started as a lube oil filter in 1961. They are submicronic. They haven't made oil filters in a long time. My Altima has two of them. Have to remove the grill to service them. The Motor Guard on my 76 f250 with the 390 is over 50 years old..some crazy people like me put a orifice in the compressed air filter and cut aluminum parts for the inside to filter motor oil.They were the best in the 60s. Got tired of the bull shit stories and being sued by Frantz.They already had the better selling compressed air filters and dropped the Lube oil filters. The compressed air filters are submicronic. They go to body shops instrument air aircraft painting of course plazma cutting. For filtering motor oil they had manifolds for diesel trucks.The bigger the engine the more TP filters they manifolded together. Grand Auto parts in San Jose California sold them. I tried to bring them back. Motor Guard ddidnt like me using TP. They have their own elements. They were designed to use TP.. the compressed air elements are like coffee filter paper with a plastic core for people that run wet air thru them. They are not a water seperater. I had refrigerated water seperators at work upstream from the Motor Guards. The Motor Guards were the only ones safe to use for compressed air.
At one time I could find Motor Guards for less than a hundred and convert them back to lube oil. About as cheap to just buy a Jackmaster Classic. The Jackmaster would be strong enough to filter compressed air but it is die cast aluminum with no coating inside. And you would need to drill out the orifice Probably would do fine if you didnt leave it setting with a wet element