The guys on engine masters tv show did a oil filter test reving up engine high rpm putting oil through and testing the flow and HP and all the engine specs change using different filters. Some filters filter better, some filter less and give more HP.
@@slothfish I use micro guard because we use those for customers oil changes at my work. Micro guard works but wix probably the best flow best HP but I drive 4 cylinder so I don't care what I use I do my oil and everything on time. 234,000 miles on my car just change oil regularly
I've used WIX from the local NAPA for years because it's one of the better filters on the market....and they only cost a little more. Always look at which filter they put on commercial engines. (Usually WIX or Baldwin) In my many years working as a welder I have never seen a Fram on on a commercial engine. A Parts guy told me once that UA-cam did a lot of damage to Fram because they exposed them. A little surface rust is probably from moisture from manufacturing. Doesn't hurt a thing. The price difference between a good filter and a bad one is less than the price of a cup of coffee in a restaurant.
There are not really bad filters. There are low-end or no name filters. These are good for 5000 miles, no more. A filter is bad if you use it in an application which exceeds its specifications. One of the local tire chains where I live offers a $20 conventional oil change just to get you in the door so they can sell you tires, brakes or suspension work. They give you a no name filter, meaning a brand name you never will see in a parts store or box store. This type of filter is good for 5000 miles. Stay within that specification and you will have no problems because of the filter. If you plan to go 10,000 up to 25,000 miles on synthetic oil, you have to use a filter suitable for that purpose. Don't blame the products. Blame the failure to follow the correct maintenance protocols for the products used. Myself, I use a Supertech filter and brand name semisynthetic oil with an oil change interval of 2800 miles. Will I have an oil-related problem in my 21-year-old import because of what products I use? I seriously doubt it.
What's sad is that some people will actually listen to this bullshit video! Wix filters are, and always have been the very best you can buy! Tune in again next week when he investigates Bigfoot sightings inside the Whitehouse.
@@Locomedic1 yep this guy has no clue what he's talking about. As soon as he said that the hole in the nut of the k&n was to tie a piece of string so that if it falls off it doesn't hit another vehicle 🤦♂️ it's called safety wire keeps it from falling off LOL
I agree with what you say. I used to drive across America 6X a Yr. for the past 12 Yrs. I met a guy in San Diego who does old cars for movie stars. I told him what I did & what would he recommend? He said Mobil-1.
Basically in the U.S., there are four filter manufacturers. Champion Labs, Fram, Mann & Hummel, and Baldwin. Mann & Hummel owns Wix and Purolator . There is a lot of contract manufacturing by all of them. Basically the filter manufacturer offers a variety of options for the anti-drainback valve, element, and relief valve. The company buying makes a choice to meet the price point they need.
Three. Champion Labs and Fram are both owned by First Brands/Trico, Per the previous comment, Allied Signal is no more and hasn't owned Fram for a long time. Honeywell bought out the Allied Signal Fram/Bendix/Autolite consumer lines in 1999 or so. They sold it recently to Rank group a private investment group in 2011, then Rank sold it again in 2019 to Trico (First Brands).
A lot of issues and potential problems were discussed, but I have never personally experienced a problem with any oil filter I have ever used over 45 years.
A bad oil filter will almost never destroy your engine immediately. An oil filter that doesn't work well will cause excessive engine wear. Just because an oil filter doesn't immediately destroy your engine doesn't mean it's a good filter.
I have been using Mobil 1 for over 12 years. So reliable. I haven’t really seen another filter to upgrade too. I did think about Bosch and will dig further. I will say I will be moving from Mobil 1 synthetic oil to Penzoil Ultra Platinum.
This is one of the worst comparisons I’ve seen. You’re biased for a brand. You’re complaining about surface rust on metal without showing age/ manufacturing dates, you’re compliant about the effectiveness of valves without testing them. You’re complaining about dents that you don’t know left the factory that way or not. Why don’t you buy from a better store to start with and buy the newest filters you can find. Ensure the filters are dented before you purchase them. I would before I put it on my car. Come one, man. Seriously.
I run Mobil 1 synthetic for a year and change my AC Delco or WIX filter every 5k miles. Have been doing this for over 40 years and have never had an oil or filter related problem on a single vehicle that I have owned
Thanks… Interestingly , I do about the same…….though, complicated by Buying a DEALER,“ lifetime Oil Change program “ buying Journey 2015 * (**first time using Dealer, for me)…. change out the PERFORMAX OR , *Pronto Filters ( *last OIL CHANGE).. to PUROLATOR BOSS, on Both vehicles,(* was NAPA GO,D/ WIX gererally for five ++ years)** !,, I Appreciated, the BOSS , or Royal Purple Filters more………..
I’ve lost a cam lobe on two different engines running Mobil-1. Their 5w-30 is crap. I’ll never use it again. Even BMW doesn’t recommend Mobil-1 5w-30. BMW recommends their brand 5w-30, Castrol Syntec 5w-30, or Mobil-1 10w-40. Obviously, Mobil-1 5w-30 doesn’t fulfill their lubrication requirements. I’ve run Castrol Syntec in every engine I own with Wix XP filters and have not had any issues since switching.
I do run the Fram Ultra Synthetic filter in all my vehicles. It's overall the best filter media being a double lined media and fully synthetic with an extended life rating, upwards of 20,000 miles. Personally, I don't run that long between oil changes. As to the rust in the filters, I don't consider that to be a big issue because all modern oils have anti-rust additives as part of their additive package so the rust would be countered immediately. The glue is a product of trying to adhere 2 different materials together. It usually takes more glue and more expensive glue to make the 2 materials connect. The broken piece inside the one filter notwithstanding. As for the 2 other Fram filters, the PH and the Tough Guard, they use endplates that are of a similar material as the filter media's themselves, so it requires less expensive glue and less amount of glue to adhere them. Yes, some filters are manufactured by other companies so they will look the same, or multiple companies use parts from the same distributor so they may have parts with similar stampings in them. All are made by machine, and all may have a defect or 2 inadvertently in them, even the Wix and K&N filters are fallible. There are no guarantees in life.
They sit around to long and with temperature changes the metal gets condensation on it and gets rust on it. That little bit of rust will not hurt anything. It's a oil filter it will filter it.
If the containments are on the outside of the filter medium inside the filter you will have it make its way to the engine. Also depends on size of containment and so on.
Exactly. The minor surface rust (if that's what it is) would in all likelihood be the result of the storage environment of the filter. Highly unlikely it's coming from the factory that way. I use Napa Gold (Wix labled), nothing in this video would cause me to change that practice.
Contaminants in the centre cavity of the filter are dangerous because the flow of oil is from outside to inside. Perhaps they should apply some storage oil to prevent rust.
I've changed my own oil for 20 years and used all those brands except the K&N and have never had one fail or had a problem. I do change them with each change and do that regularly. The only issue I've ever had was a couple times with dealer mechanics over tightening filters. I know there is a Fram hatred club, but I've never had any issues with them.
I'm with you. I'm 65 years old been changing my own oil forever. Never had a "fail" because of oil filters, but I don't run them 15K miles either. Typically only about 3K. I think a lot of mechs only see the worst of the worst sometimes...
I got lucky, used to use Orange Frams for years, and my corolla is still going. I did my oil changes every 2000 to 3000 miles though. Switched to Purolator and Bosch a few years ago.
A warning to anyone using Mobil 1 filters, I cut one open after an oil change and found the pleats were not glued on to part of the housing allowing the filter to completely bypass. I contacted Mobil about this issue and sent photos to them. Their only reply after asking what it was installed on was to say that since I cut open the filter it voided the warranty. What a crock of you know what. I'll never use a Mobil product ever again.
Yeah mobil doesnt make me happy with their filters or their oil either. Honestly, castrol or penzoil for winter time, and I run napa gold, fram, or STP for shorter intervals like on the old chevy which gets changes at 5,000.
Mobil-1 is crap. I’ve lost a cam lobe on two different vehicles running their oil - never again. Interestingly, BMW, straight from their owners manual, recommends their own 5w-30 oil, Castrol Syntec 5w-30, or Mobil-1 10w-40. Obviously, Mobil-1 5w-30 doesn’t live up to BMW’s requirements.
@@sx300pilot5 my E46 ticked so bad with Mobil 1, but Castrol made it run smooth and quiet. I eventually learned about oil grades and qualities and figured out the reason why "euro spec" is a thing. I eventually switched to liqui moly and it completely changed the way it ran. Never heard it tick again and it didn't smell like my engine bay was burning after a long spirited drive since. I assume it was the friction reducers and seal conditioners helping it run a bit cooler and preventing oil from burning/leaking onto the hot manifold
My mechanic rebuilds at least 1-2 engines a year due to Fram comming apart and blocking oil passages. WIX and Napa Gold, which is made by Wix is OUTSTANDING!
I changed my oil every 15,000 miles and every 5000 miles change the filter and top off the oil level. I used synthetic oil, no particular brand and whatever filter was on sale or Fram. Checked the oil level once every 2 weeks. Did this for over 40 years and never had a oil related problem.
I have been using the cheapest oil filters I could have found in auto parts stores for the past 20+ years. Super tech filters from Walmart have worked just fine. My 20 year old 2001 Camry LE V6 with almost 200,000 miles does not burn/consume oil. Looking at the fiber filter media, I can see that Super tech filters are better than Fram filters are.
Really, when you consider it. How many people have had to claim a suit against any filter manufacturer under normal conditions? They all must meet approved specs. Change oil at manufactures recommendations and you won't have issues un,essentially under extreme conditions. Any engineer worth his salt will tell you that.
Amsoil seals their oil filters in plastic film in the box. It is likely to reduce these rust problems, which could be a product of the amount of time the filter has been sitting on the shelf.
WITHOUT WATCHING THE VIDEO, I'LL TAKE A GUESS AND SAY IT'S THE BRAND THAT I'VE BEEN USING FOR OVER FIFTY YEARS, WITHOUT A SINGLE PROBLEM! FRAM. ONE SMALL COMMENT, "I AM DONE WITH THESE RIDICULOUS COMPARISONS"!!
The Fram and K&N oil filters have been the oil filter of choice for many years. I do regular oil changes (5,000 miles) and have never had an engine failure. however I want to commend you for doing this video in orser to provide the information in regards the pros and cons of the presented oil filters.
You know, I think the only way to really find out which one is best, would be to set up a machine that would run dirty used oil through a filter. The oil could come from multiple vehicles. Have a lab test the batch. Then run a specific amount through the filter, take a sample. Do this on multiple filters, send the samples to a lab, and see which filter removed more contaminates. The proof would be in the performance, not just an opinion of what feels better.
The machine you mentioned could easily be a mule engine on a test stand. But it would have to be set up to be able to be put under load as well. This will not only be good for testing which oil filter is best, but also the engine oil if you wanted to get that in depth with the testing.
This would be a good idea if particulates (dirt) were the only thing in "dirty used oil". One of the chief reasons oil turns color (other than dirt) is oxidation caused by excess fuel during cold starts, and moisture not boiled off by short trips. Oxidation isn't reversed by changing the filter the oil is run through. So while you may catch some dirt that hadn't been caught by the previous filter, it wouldn't be the definitive test we'd all like to see. That being said, I'm definitely not a fan of the orange filters unless they're from the HP series like The Top Fuel guys use. And I've never seen a store selling them! Meantime, anything with the metal end caps is better, at least the oil goes through the filter media!
You should also purchase 100 filters of each type and test cold start time to build up oil pressure, the true test of the anti-drain valve. Report both the worst results and average of the 100 filters to account for variations in manufacturing.
Merry Christmas! On the K&N, the idea of the safety wire is to PREVENT it from spinning loose, not to keep it dangling after it unscrews itself. I love that you made this video but I am heartbroken to see the K&N is not all that because that's what I use on all my cars for the past 5 years. Prior to that I always used the Phram because of the awesome grip material to grab. I have never had an oil filter related problem........ or have and just dont know? lol Now I will ha e a sleepless night as I digest all of this info! Thanks again and Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
I've said this for decades as a DIY car mechanic having owned or leased over 30 cars, vans, and trucks over 40 years. I buy whatever filter is on sale and use mainly synthetic oil from Walmart now. Years ago we'd change the oil every 3K miles. Now with synthetic and modern engines I only go 5-7 K. Never, ever had an oil-related problem. My point is frequently of an oil change is the best care for your valuable car NOT necessarily the brand of the oil filter ( Yes I use fram too).
I'm not sure a little rust defines a bad filter. It all depends on where and how long it was stored and the humidity it was exposed to. If it was drenched in oil soon after manufacturing it wouldn't rust. It's also something you can't really avoid.
What are the micron values of these filters? Knowing how small of particles it can filter out and not let back into your engine is what I would want to know.
From an HVAC viewpoint, some new designed filters that are filtered to smaller particles can slow down the airflow which makes the furnace work harder equals less life of the unit. smaller micron restricts air flow. I don't think restricting oil flow on an engine would be a good idea.
That's why the filters have bypass valves. Depending on the design of the fins they could filter better and Hold more debris. Probably a reason why you shouldn't run a filter with smaller micron filtration for an extended period of time. Though I seriously doubt any filter after 6k miles would be"full"
There is a video where a guy pumped contaminated oil through numerous filters, then sent the oil into a lab for testing. Cutting a filter open to see the guts does NOT tell us how good a job it does at filtering out impurities. That video showed that Wix, Mobil one, and Fram were at the top of the list. So buy what's on sale.
I agree the vid is confusing. Also PLEASE UNDERSTAND that the hole on the end of the K&N filter is NOT there as a wired tether to keep the filter from “hitting a vehicle behind you!” It is for “safety wiring”. To keep the filter tight and not twisting off by itself! It is a common technique used on critical components such as aircraft and even nuclear power! Thankyou.....
When I worked for a Caterpillar Dealership(Empire) here in Arizona we cut open our Caterpillar Filters and found Heavy Duty screened pleated Filter media and Spring Loaded Anti Drain Assy...They are manufactured by Honeywell Allied Industrial
I used to use K&N then ended up getting a faulty one. I always do a test drive after every oil change until it gets to temp to build up pressure and check for leaks. No leaks noted. One day at work as I was walking out to my truck I noticed a drip pattern coming down the road straight to my truck. I had developed a leak. I had to really crank it down to stop it which didn't sit well with me. Luckily I hadn't lost more than a 1/4 qt before I noticed. I had to switch after that. Not saying they're bad but they let me down.
@@fernandobriseno8164 Me too fern. My k&n had a tiny cut on the o-ring, and leaked only a small amount when under pressure. Never noticed until I washed my motorcycle. I am all done with k&n.
What it looks like don't matter its the micron rating and efficiency you should be looking at. Rust is from storing them in humid conditions it won't affect the performance.
My guess is that glue is designed to handle engine oil temps, but yes if it came loose who knows what would happen. Looks like we have to check these things each time we do a change. I have always had a lot of faith in Wix, supposed to be one of the best. After I discovered Frams use the cardboard end caps I stopped using them years ago.
It seems to me that the “bean counters” have as much or more to do with quality than anyone or anything. You have a quality component (oil filter in this case) with a solid reputation and instead of either improving on it or leaving it alone the trend becomes figuring how to make it for less money. Or another company purchases the company making said “quality” component and does the same thing. I repair cars for a living and see this happen with automobile manufacturers.
My 2013 4Runner’s engine has everything but the filter medium built permanently as part of the engine. Thus all choices about filtering, for me, are about the replaceable filter medium. No questions and worries about the bypass valve or rust, etc. I use K&N filter medium units, though I only started changing oil myself about 100k miles ago. We’ve done oil changes every 5000 miles, and the car has 435k miles on it with no engine problems.
I always buy the prettiest one and in 50 years have yet to lose an engine, have never heard of or seen any engine that has come thru my shop that was destroyed by a defective oil filter. If your engine has a high volume oil pump on it ( that you are aware of) then run the cheapest filter you can buy, but if your engine runs a high pressure oil pump then buy a better quality oil filter usually a Wix. If you are that worried about filtration then install a duel remote oil filter bypass kit made by Amsoil.
i put a bent filter on a car once and the engine sound was bad after a day. i changed the filter no more rough engine noise and ever since open my oil filter package at the store and check for no dents .
SuperTech (WM) is made by Champion as is KN. The KN hex, safety wire hole, and thick body should tip you off that these are Champion aircraft filters. Champion also makes many private label brands. Mopar, AC, NAPA, OReilly, AZ, and others. Some stores will argue, but.... Its like saying GM makes Cadillac and Chevy brands, so all Chevies are really Cadillacs.
SUPER TECH IS JUST AS GOOD OR BETTER THAN MOST OTHER FILTERS AT A FRACTION OF THE PRICE, I'VE BEEN USING THEM FOR MANY YEARS AND NEVER HAD ANY ISSUES WITH THEM.
SuperTech (WM) is made by Champion as is KN. The KN hex, safety wire hole, and thick body should tip you off that these are Champion aircraft filters. Champion also makes many private label brands. Mopar, AC, NAPA, OReilly, AZ, and others. Some stores will argue, but.... Its like saying GM makes Cadillac and Chevy brands, so all Chevies are really Cadillacs.
@@hotrodray6802 Champ Labs also makes some AC Delco filters. Almost any filter that has an open black plastic cage as the inside support for the element is made by them. The have a patent for that feature. None of the filters Nate reviews here have that feature because of the application.
@@brucebeauvais1324 I really like that plastic open cage design. Seems much less restrictive than other designs and I've never seen a problem with them when I'm changing them out. Interesting point on champion, I didn't know that. Thanks.
Very good videos... MANN+HUMMEL is the owner and manufacturer of wix, purulator, and it's looks like Bosch too... Hey can you cut and compare some OEM filters, like Hyundai, Toyota, Honda, and some ones please???
Thanks My goto filter is supertech st6607 since the car it is for oil change is 3-4k miles. Secondary is FRAM PH7317 I wouldn’t use either for 10k miles that they claim. Maybe 5-6k Max. I did use to use FRAM filters years ago never had any problems but I was always changing every 3-4k miles. Then I wised up and found better filter that was cheeper.
@@steved8714 like I said, “I” have a 100% success rate. Fly me out next time you need help. Or save yourself some money and do grip/forearm exercises regularly. It’s not like you even have to get close to a captains of crush level of grip strength to be exceptional and stand out in our pampered modern society.
Awesome video would have been nice to see an overall conclusion. In my mind it seems like there’s faults with all of them and none of them look like they are the clear winner. Which one do you recommend?
GF went to a quick change oil place for her 2018 Subaru with 23,000 miles. They put on a "Service Champ" filter. At cold start up the engine would knock briefly until the oil pressure came up. I bought a filter from Subaru and the cold knock went away. I had this same problem years ago on my Lotus when I put a Fram filter on it. Putting a different (better quality) filter on it and the cold knock went away. So, there is a difference in filters. Be aware. Personally, I will not use a Fram and now a "Service Champ". I will use WixXP, Mobil1 and K&N.
At the end of the day, it's really simple, run whatever you want. Everyone has their anecdotes on the subject. You always have someone vouching and swears by any of these filters. Then you'll also have the horror stories as well.
the XP is for synthetic so make sure you get the correct filter for your oil. Napa filters are Wix and the Napa platinum/Wix XP are my filter of choice because I have 8 vehicles and have used them exclusively for years and years and have never had a problem. I have no other reason as to why I prefer them, just because if something is working great for me why change?
The filter is a high quality synthetic made for long drain intervals. The wix xp uses a steel screen for extra support to make sure the filter holds up and filters evenly. The oil bypass valve is constructed into the filter for more stability. Also they use a steel spring which will give support and you won't need be concerned of unfiltered oil making it through like filters with stamped steel that becomes bent not holding the filter contents tight and properly aligned.
Sadly soon all combustion cars including classics will be banned from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by reducing all conventional fuel stations to only one state operated central gas station per city or county. Now they want to slow down all the gas station fuel pumps from 20 litre per minute to 2 litre per minute...From 2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime. :-(((
I really like that you weren't afraid to name names for once, so many people making these kind of vids seem terrified of pi$$ing off somebody or some company so they dance around it, drop hints and expect you to figure out who... thanks for coming right out and saying the company names! So I know what product to AVOID.
Drain back valves are not an issue until the filter is at a 90⁰ or vertical. Surface rust from sitting on the shelf isn't an issue. Bypass valve and filtering ability is what I want.
my Alfa Romeo had the filter on the side at 90⁰ and Toyota A series engines like 4age also have the filter on the side at 90⁰. Many Subaru engines have the filter on top. Some VW/Audi engines too and I'm sure many others. Fram filter on my Alfa Romeo caused slow build up of oil pressure on startup due to faulty drain back valve.
Nate it's guys like who, use their time and money, for us users of the products you review. It's guys like you that make YT invaluable. A sincere thank you.
I do Walmart oil change services. They are not a lot more than the shelf cost of the oil , filter. They have all the oil and filters . What they have on the shelf you can use for change. My 06 f250 powerstroke. Shell t4, motorcraft filter. $90.00 . Taurus with Vulcan. < $25.00 Supertech oil and filter. Been Doing for long time. with multiple vehicles. I was a do myself forever, mainly cost , with a lot of cars. 15 years at Wallys . No charge battery install. Buy it they install. I have twice needed a battery at night . 24 hr Wally pretty handy .
As an old timer,I recall oil filters from 50's and early 60's had a canister to hold the filter ,some drivers would put a roll of toilet paper in the canister to save a few dollars not sure if the practice was efficient or detrimental but never heard any mishaps !
I've had several cars, trucks and motorcycles in my lifetime. I've been driving since before I was even old enough to qualify for a driver's license. I learned to wrench starting when I had to build bicycles from parts because I couldn't afford to by one. I had to learn to work on cars to keep mine running. I almost always changed my own oil and filters regularly. In all these years, I've Never had an oil filter Fail... I'm more interested in micron filtration numbers, and Oil Analysis results. Because I've never seen it... I'd like to see a comparison as to how well one filter actually filters the motor oil compared to another.
You know, I have a 99 GMC Suburban with the 5.7 230k miles on it, she does suffer from piston slap on cold starts and has been for the last 8 years, I do my oil changes darn near when they need it, Installed a Wix filter and used some Valvoline 10w40 to increase the oil pressure a little. And yesterday I went out and got me something to eat and at the drive threw I noticed my truck making all sorts of like top end noise, My oil pressure dropped to zero at idle, as long as I kept on the gas a little it was around 15 -20 psi which was still lower than normal when giving it gas. I made the 8 mile trip home as long as I kept on the gas it was fine. I immediately drained the oil and pulled the filter and no sparking nothing that would catch my eye, Of course I pulled the oil filter out and noticed it was heavy, like not a lot of oil came out of it like normal and yes I had the proper amount of oil in my truck. I installed a cheap Fram and used the Fram oil, was a deal and what do you know, my oil pressure was back to normal, on cold around 60psi, once at normal operating temp around 20psi at idle and normal driving around 30 to 40psi at 2k rpms, it no longer dropped to 0psi. I still had over 1500miles before my next oil change.... I bet you I will not use another Wix filter, I always hear good about them, and I thought I was going to be doing a oil pump and pick up on my Suburban this week, but it was just a bad filter. I always hear horror stories about Fram, but I didn't expect to have any sort of issues with Wix. It could of been bad if someone who didn't know what to look for, On my Suburban, all it says is "Check Gauges" No oil light or anything lol.
The ones wrapped in plastic are Wix ProTech filters meant to be sold to auto shops for the oil change service bay. They're just a generic Wix with white paint and the price is really low, a dollar or two, because those oil change places have to make some money on a $25 cheap oil change. ProTech gets them some margin. But it's a Wix so usually a good choice anyway.
The hole in the K&N isn't for a string in case it falls off. LOL! It's for a safety wire like they do on airplane components so it can't back off. Pretty much at 14:00 so far I think you don't know a whole lot. Where's the Purolators?
I've been using Fram Tough Guard for over 35 years on my vehicles. Have put hundreds of thousands of miles on them and never had one issue. Not one engine burned/s oil and I go an average of 7500 miles between changes.
Oh, and a little tiny dent in that k&n filter that doesn’t matter one single bit is not standard on all k&n filters. Just thought I’d throw that in there. You can pretty much beat the hell out of these things before they don’t perform as it should The reason I felt the need to throw that in there is because you’ve mentioned that little Nick more than once, as if it was an issue with the filters
After listening this guy talks, I still confused of what he said. I read other readers' comment ,I come up with the same result. He should be more specific and to the point.
Where's your destroyed engine????
The biggest problem with your review is that, although you did a lot of work, the viewer cannot draw a conclusion about which filters are best.
Motorcraft
@@rick-kx7gy motorcraft is not even in the video.
The guys on engine masters tv show did a oil filter test reving up engine high rpm putting oil through and testing the flow and HP and all the engine specs change using different filters. Some filters filter better, some filter less and give more HP.
@@skippy710 So which one was best?
@@slothfish I use micro guard because we use those for customers oil changes at my work. Micro guard works but wix probably the best flow best HP but I drive 4 cylinder so I don't care what I use I do my oil and everything on time. 234,000 miles on my car just change oil regularly
Not one of these videos ever discusses the filter mediums ability to filter.
I've used WIX from the local NAPA for years because it's one of the better filters on the market....and they only cost a little more. Always look at which filter they put on commercial engines. (Usually WIX or Baldwin) In my many years working as a welder I have never seen a Fram on on a commercial engine. A Parts guy told me once that UA-cam did a lot of damage to Fram because they exposed them.
A little surface rust is probably from moisture from manufacturing. Doesn't hurt a thing.
The price difference between a good filter and a bad one is less than the price of a cup of coffee in a restaurant.
There are not really bad filters. There are low-end or no name filters. These are good for 5000 miles, no more. A filter is bad if you use it in an application which exceeds its specifications. One of the local tire chains where I live offers a $20 conventional oil change just to get you in the door so they can sell you tires, brakes or suspension work. They give you a no name filter, meaning a brand name you never will see in a parts store or box store. This type of filter is good for 5000 miles. Stay within that specification and you will have no problems because of the filter. If you plan to go 10,000 up to 25,000 miles on synthetic oil, you have to use a filter suitable for that purpose. Don't blame the products. Blame the failure to follow the correct maintenance protocols for the products used.
Myself, I use a Supertech filter and brand name semisynthetic oil with an oil change interval of 2800 miles. Will I have an oil-related problem in my 21-year-old import because of what products I use? I seriously doubt it.
@@anonymike8280 Agreed. I've used FRAM synthetic filters for the most part and it's gotten my truck from 110k to 282k with no problems.
well on Fram they told the truth Fram suck
You need to do research on FRAM. Their problems are well documented.
Fram is garbage.
I've used Mobil 1 Synthetic Media Filters for years now ...and have never had problems here in Southwestern Arizona 🏜
This vid is so confusing your talking about one filter sometimes and holding up one or two others so confusing
Very confusing !!
He's just rambling,...and rambling,....and rambling on. If anyone could make sense of his results, then post it, that would be great.
What's sad is that some people will actually listen to this bullshit video! Wix filters are, and always have been the very best you can buy! Tune in again next week when he investigates Bigfoot sightings inside the Whitehouse.
@@Locomedic1 yep this guy has no clue what he's talking about. As soon as he said that the hole in the nut of the k&n was to tie a piece of string so that if it falls off it doesn't hit another vehicle 🤦♂️ it's called safety wire keeps it from falling off LOL
@@rayrobinson3015 nice to meet you mr. WIX!
What I would like to see is a real world comparison. Put them in a car for so many mile and test the oil for particle size and flow rate.
I agree with what you say. I used to drive across America 6X a Yr. for the past 12 Yrs. I met a guy in San Diego who does old cars for movie stars. I told him what I did & what would he recommend? He said Mobil-1.
Basically in the U.S., there are four filter manufacturers. Champion Labs, Fram, Mann & Hummel, and Baldwin. Mann & Hummel owns Wix and Purolator . There is a lot of contract manufacturing by all of them. Basically the filter manufacturer offers a variety of options for the anti-drainback valve, element, and relief valve. The company buying makes a choice to meet the price point they need.
Champion labs also makes Fram via their allied signal nameplate
Three. Champion Labs and Fram are both owned by First Brands/Trico, Per the previous comment, Allied Signal is no more and hasn't owned Fram for a long time. Honeywell bought out the Allied Signal Fram/Bendix/Autolite consumer lines in 1999 or so. They sold it recently to Rank group a private investment group in 2011, then Rank sold it again in 2019 to Trico (First Brands).
I'm more confused now then before
lol
A lot of issues and potential problems were discussed, but I have never personally experienced a problem with any oil filter I have ever used over 45 years.
exactly, Ive yet to see someone directly link a oil filter to a ruined engine
Because changing your oil is far more important than what filter you use.
A bad oil filter will almost never destroy your engine immediately. An oil filter that doesn't work well will cause excessive engine wear. Just because an oil filter doesn't immediately destroy your engine doesn't mean it's a good filter.
@@Liberty4Ever It wont do anything as long as you change your oil and filter before you need to.
Same here! I was thinking about that while I was watching the video. lol
There's 19 minutes of my life I'll never get back.
You watched 19 minutes of this?It appears there's 2 failures at least.
In that time you could have driven to the dealer and bought a factory oil filter for $7.
I had to stop after 30 seconds, in hopes that someone would make sense out of this.
@@frankfarklesberry Buy your oil filter from the dealer. $5
lmfao!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wix, mobile 1 and K&N are the best filters there hands down
I have been using Mobil 1 for over 12 years. So reliable. I haven’t really seen another filter to upgrade too. I did think about Bosch and will dig further. I will say I will be moving from Mobil 1 synthetic oil to Penzoil Ultra Platinum.
@@michaelchueh Penzoil Is amazing oil for the price I'm sure your going to love it you might even see that is seals and runs smoother then mobile 1
Life is like a box of filters...
We'll never know what we're gonna get!
@@alex4given808 👍
🤣💯
@@alex4given808 yes you do all you got do is read and do research
@@bluesmurf6142 we try different filters too.
This is one of the worst comparisons I’ve seen. You’re biased for a brand. You’re complaining about surface rust on metal without showing age/ manufacturing dates, you’re compliant about the effectiveness of valves without testing them. You’re complaining about dents that you don’t know left the factory that way or not. Why don’t you buy from a better store to start with and buy the newest filters you can find. Ensure the filters are dented before you purchase them. I would before I put it on my car. Come one, man. Seriously.
lol i couldn’t even figure out his bias.
He sells his channel this way, by fear mongering. You can tell by the dramatic music in the background of all his shitty videos
Been using fram oil filters forever. On my honda. 350,000 miles. Using quality oil and changing it every 7000 miles is the most important part
Yeah but a Honda would probably run that many miles just adding oil.
I run Mobil 1 synthetic for a year and change my AC Delco or WIX filter every 5k miles. Have been doing this for over 40 years and have never had an oil or filter related problem on a single vehicle that I have owned
Thank you Ron...a voice of experience!
Thanks… Interestingly , I do about the same…….though, complicated by Buying a DEALER,“ lifetime Oil Change program “ buying Journey 2015 * (**first time using Dealer, for me)…. change out the PERFORMAX OR , *Pronto Filters ( *last OIL CHANGE).. to PUROLATOR BOSS, on Both vehicles,(* was NAPA GO,D/ WIX gererally for five ++ years)** !,, I Appreciated, the BOSS , or Royal Purple Filters more………..
I’ve lost a cam lobe on two different engines running Mobil-1. Their 5w-30 is crap. I’ll never use it again. Even BMW doesn’t recommend Mobil-1 5w-30. BMW recommends their brand 5w-30, Castrol Syntec 5w-30, or Mobil-1 10w-40. Obviously, Mobil-1 5w-30 doesn’t fulfill their lubrication requirements. I’ve run Castrol Syntec in every engine I own with Wix XP filters and have not had any issues since switching.
I do run the Fram Ultra Synthetic filter in all my vehicles. It's overall the best filter media being a double lined media and fully synthetic with an extended life rating, upwards of 20,000 miles. Personally, I don't run that long between oil changes.
As to the rust in the filters, I don't consider that to be a big issue because all modern oils have anti-rust additives as part of their additive package so the rust would be countered immediately.
The glue is a product of trying to adhere 2 different materials together. It usually takes more glue and more expensive glue to make the 2 materials connect. The broken piece inside the one filter notwithstanding. As for the 2 other Fram filters, the PH and the Tough Guard, they use endplates that are of a similar material as the filter media's themselves, so it requires less expensive glue and less amount of glue to adhere them.
Yes, some filters are manufactured by other companies so they will look the same, or multiple companies use parts from the same distributor so they may have parts with similar stampings in them. All are made by machine, and all may have a defect or 2 inadvertently in them, even the Wix and K&N filters are fallible. There are no guarantees in life.
I have a six pack of Purolator Boss filters that i store in zip lock bags with a couple silicone packs just to be on the safe side. Great video.
They sit around to long and with temperature changes the metal gets condensation on it and gets rust on it. That little bit of rust will not hurt anything. It's a oil filter it will filter it.
And the cardboard box they come in can absorb moisture which doesn’t help.
If the containments are on the outside of the filter medium inside the filter you will have it make its way to the engine. Also depends on size of containment and so on.
Very true
Exactly. The minor surface rust (if that's what it is) would in all likelihood be the result of the storage environment of the filter. Highly unlikely it's coming from the factory that way.
I use Napa Gold (Wix labled), nothing in this video would cause me to change that practice.
Contaminants in the centre cavity of the filter are dangerous because the flow of oil is from outside to inside. Perhaps they should apply some storage oil to prevent rust.
For a few weeks, I worked at an oil filter company in Greensboro, NC and I noticed that the caps are the same for many brands of filters.
I've changed my own oil for 20 years and used all those brands except the K&N and have never had one fail or had a problem. I do change them with each change and do that regularly. The only issue I've ever had was a couple times with dealer mechanics over tightening filters. I know there is a Fram hatred club, but I've never had any issues with them.
I'm with you. I'm 65 years old been changing my own oil forever. Never had a "fail" because of oil filters, but I don't run them 15K miles either. Typically only about 3K. I think a lot of mechs only see the worst of the worst sometimes...
I have had cold start up knock with Fram which usually is from drain back.
I got lucky, used to use Orange Frams for years, and my corolla is still going. I did my oil changes every 2000 to 3000 miles though. Switched to Purolator and Bosch a few years ago.
@@Oscarphone I had the same problem with Fram, taking too long to build up oil pressure on startup due to faulty anti-drain.
A warning to anyone using Mobil 1 filters, I cut one open after an oil change and found the pleats were not glued on to part of the housing allowing the filter to completely bypass.
I contacted Mobil about this issue and sent photos to them.
Their only reply after asking what it was installed on was to say that since I cut open the filter it voided the warranty.
What a crock of you know what.
I'll never use a Mobil product ever again.
Yeah mobil doesnt make me happy with their filters or their oil either. Honestly, castrol or penzoil for winter time, and I run napa gold, fram, or STP for shorter intervals like on the old chevy which gets changes at 5,000.
Mobil-1 is crap. I’ve lost a cam lobe on two different vehicles running their oil - never again. Interestingly, BMW, straight from their owners manual, recommends their own 5w-30 oil, Castrol Syntec 5w-30, or Mobil-1 10w-40. Obviously, Mobil-1 5w-30 doesn’t live up to BMW’s requirements.
@@sx300pilot5 my E46 ticked so bad with Mobil 1, but Castrol made it run smooth and quiet. I eventually learned about oil grades and qualities and figured out the reason why "euro spec" is a thing. I eventually switched to liqui moly and it completely changed the way it ran. Never heard it tick again and it didn't smell like my engine bay was burning after a long spirited drive since. I assume it was the friction reducers and seal conditioners helping it run a bit cooler and preventing oil from burning/leaking onto the hot manifold
Shame on Mobile 1.
That's bull right there. Nissan puts M1 in my wifey car. I actually would use Castrol Syntec if allowed
Lots of work, time and effort put into this video review. So, which one is best? No way to draw a final conclusion.
My mechanic rebuilds at least 1-2 engines a year due to Fram comming apart and blocking oil passages. WIX and Napa Gold, which is made by Wix is OUTSTANDING!
FRAM orange can hater 😂
You’re just another bad apple that’s all hehe
bullshit
Isn't Microgard the same ALSO?
I changed my oil every 15,000 miles and every 5000 miles change the filter and top off the oil level. I used synthetic oil, no particular brand and whatever filter was on sale or Fram. Checked the oil level once every 2 weeks. Did this for over 40 years and never had a oil related problem.
The Fram Ultra Synthetic has been my filter of choice for years. I do regular oil changes and have never had an engine failure.
I've never used Fram Ultra Synthetic and I've never had an engine failure either. See why your comment is irrelevant?
I have been using the cheapest oil filters I could have found in auto parts stores for the past 20+ years. Super tech filters from Walmart have worked just fine. My 20 year old 2001 Camry LE V6 with almost 200,000 miles does not burn/consume oil. Looking at the fiber filter media, I can see that Super tech filters are better than Fram filters are.
Yeah I can't do that on my bmw 😭
Really, when you consider it. How many people have had to claim a suit against any filter manufacturer under normal conditions? They all must meet approved specs. Change oil at manufactures recommendations and you won't have issues un,essentially under extreme conditions. Any engineer worth his salt will tell you that.
Amsoil seals their oil filters in plastic film in the box. It is likely to reduce these rust problems, which could be a product of the amount of time the filter has been sitting on the shelf.
WITHOUT WATCHING THE VIDEO, I'LL TAKE A GUESS AND SAY IT'S THE BRAND THAT I'VE BEEN USING FOR OVER FIFTY YEARS, WITHOUT A SINGLE PROBLEM! FRAM.
ONE SMALL COMMENT, "I AM DONE WITH THESE RIDICULOUS COMPARISONS"!!
2006 GMC Sierra 1500 with a 4.3 V6 under the hood, and I use WIX for the filter, and Castrol GTX for the oil.
The Fram and K&N oil filters have been the oil filter of choice for many years. I do regular oil changes (5,000 miles) and have never had an engine failure. however I want to commend you for doing this video in orser to provide the information in regards the pros and cons of the presented oil filters.
Don't worry the oil will take care of the rust. Thanks Nate.
You know, I think the only way to really find out which one is best, would be to set up a machine that would run dirty used oil through a filter. The oil could come from multiple vehicles. Have a lab test the batch. Then run a specific amount through the filter, take a sample. Do this on multiple filters, send the samples to a lab, and see which filter removed more contaminates. The proof would be in the performance, not just an opinion of what feels better.
Best comment ever . You are so right . The only way to test performance.
I was going to post the same idea.
The machine you mentioned could easily be a mule engine on a test stand. But it would have to be set up to be able to be put under load as well. This will not only be good for testing which oil filter is best, but also the engine oil if you wanted to get that in depth with the testing.
This would be a good idea if particulates (dirt) were the only thing in "dirty used oil". One of the chief reasons oil turns color (other than dirt) is oxidation caused by excess fuel during cold starts, and moisture not boiled off by short trips. Oxidation isn't reversed by changing the filter the oil is run through. So while you may catch some dirt that hadn't been caught by the previous filter, it wouldn't be the definitive test we'd all like to see. That being said, I'm definitely not a fan of the orange filters unless they're from the HP series like The Top Fuel guys use. And I've never seen a store selling them! Meantime, anything with the metal end caps is better, at least the oil goes through the filter media!
You should also purchase 100 filters of each type and test cold start time to build up oil pressure, the true test of the anti-drain valve. Report both the worst results and average of the 100 filters to account for variations in manufacturing.
Merry Christmas! On the K&N, the idea of the safety wire is to PREVENT it from spinning loose, not to keep it dangling after it unscrews itself. I love that you made this video but I am heartbroken to see the K&N is not all that because that's what I use on all my cars for the past 5 years. Prior to that I always used the Phram because of the awesome grip material to grab. I have never had an oil filter related problem........ or have and just dont know? lol
Now I will ha e a sleepless night as I digest all of this info!
Thanks again and Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Thanks for your kindness and information happy new years
I see a lot of things that absolutely do not matter in its performance being covered, and quite a few things that do matter, not being covered
I've said this for decades as a DIY car mechanic having owned or leased over 30 cars, vans, and trucks over 40 years. I buy whatever filter is on sale and use mainly synthetic oil from Walmart now. Years ago we'd change the oil every 3K miles. Now with synthetic and modern engines I only go 5-7 K. Never, ever had an oil-related problem. My point is frequently of an oil change is the best care for your valuable car NOT necessarily the brand of the oil filter ( Yes I use fram too).
I'm not sure a little rust defines a bad filter. It all depends on where and how long it was stored and the humidity it was exposed to. If it was drenched in oil soon after manufacturing it wouldn't rust. It's also something you can't really avoid.
True, rust might indicate filters sitting in a warehouse for a long time and not specific to a particular filter brand.
What are the micron values of these filters? Knowing how small of particles it can filter out and not let back into your engine is what I would want to know.
From an HVAC viewpoint, some new designed filters that are filtered to smaller particles can slow down the airflow which makes the furnace work harder equals less life of the unit. smaller micron restricts air flow. I don't think restricting oil flow on an engine would be a good idea.
That's why the filters have bypass valves. Depending on the design of the fins they could filter better and
Hold more debris.
Probably a reason why you shouldn't run a filter with smaller micron filtration for an extended period of time. Though I seriously doubt any filter after 6k miles would be"full"
There is a video where a guy pumped contaminated oil through numerous filters, then sent the oil into a lab for testing.
Cutting a filter open to see the guts does NOT tell us how good a job it does at filtering out impurities.
That video showed that Wix, Mobil one, and Fram were at the top of the list.
So buy what's on sale.
I agree the vid is confusing.
Also PLEASE UNDERSTAND
that the hole on the end of the K&N filter is NOT there as a wired tether to keep the filter from “hitting a vehicle behind you!”
It is for “safety wiring”. To keep the filter tight and not twisting off by itself! It is a common technique used on critical components such as aircraft and even nuclear power!
Thankyou.....
When I worked for a Caterpillar Dealership(Empire) here in Arizona we cut open our Caterpillar Filters and found Heavy Duty screened pleated Filter media and Spring Loaded Anti Drain Assy...They are manufactured by Honeywell Allied Industrial
This dude takes 6 years to get to the point
Play at 1.5x speed. He does a lot better that way.
hell there wasn't a point! Other than nobody can make a good filter, according to the filter master....
I use K&N never had a problem and I love the nut for east removal.
We used K&N AIR & OIL filters in our "Late Model" class race car with a 350V8/ 400 hp. small block chevy and never had problems
I used to use K&N then ended up getting a faulty one. I always do a test drive after every oil change until it gets to temp to build up pressure and check for leaks. No leaks noted. One day at work as I was walking out to my truck I noticed a drip pattern coming down the road straight to my truck. I had developed a leak. I had to really crank it down to stop it which didn't sit well with me. Luckily I hadn't lost more than a 1/4 qt before I noticed. I had to switch after that. Not saying they're bad but they let me down.
@@fernandobriseno8164
Me too fern. My k&n had a tiny cut on the o-ring, and leaked only a small amount when under pressure. Never noticed until I washed my motorcycle. I am all done with k&n.
What it looks like don't matter its the micron rating and efficiency you should be looking at. Rust is from storing them in humid conditions it won't affect the performance.
My guess is that glue is designed to handle engine oil temps, but yes if it came loose who knows what would happen. Looks like we have to check these things each time we do a change. I have always had a lot of faith in Wix, supposed to be one of the best. After I discovered Frams use the cardboard end caps I stopped using them years ago.
O lol POP in m q
Fram ultra synthetic uses metal end caps
It seems to me that the “bean counters” have as much or more to do with quality than anyone or anything. You have a quality component (oil filter in this case) with a solid reputation and instead of either improving on it or leaving it alone the trend becomes figuring how to make it for less money. Or another company purchases the company making said “quality” component and does the same thing. I repair cars for a living and see this happen with automobile manufacturers.
My 2013 4Runner’s engine has everything but the filter medium built permanently as part of the engine. Thus all choices about filtering, for me, are about the replaceable filter medium. No questions and worries about the bypass valve or rust, etc. I use K&N filter medium units, though I only started changing oil myself about 100k miles ago. We’ve done oil changes every 5000 miles, and the car has 435k miles on it with no engine problems.
I always buy the prettiest one and in 50 years have yet to lose an engine, have never heard of or seen any engine that has come thru my shop that was destroyed by a defective oil filter. If your engine has a high volume oil pump on it ( that you are aware of) then run the cheapest filter you can buy, but if your engine runs a high pressure oil pump then buy a better quality oil filter usually a Wix. If you are that worried about filtration then install a duel remote oil filter bypass kit made by Amsoil.
i put a bent filter on a car once and the engine sound was bad after a day. i changed the filter no more rough engine noise and ever since open my oil filter package at the store and check for no dents .
Where is the destroyed engine and which oil filter destroyed it?! Might as well have had Porky Pig explain all this to me.
I'm glad I wasn't the only one who didn't hear which one "DESTROYED My Engine..."
Great video....i normally go wix..
SuperTech (WM) is made by Champion as is KN.
The KN hex, safety wire hole, and thick body should tip you off that these are Champion aircraft filters.
Champion also makes many private label brands.
Mopar, AC, NAPA, OReilly, AZ, and others.
Some stores will argue, but.... Its like saying GM makes Cadillac and Chevy brands, so all Chevies are really Cadillacs.
SUPER TECH IS JUST AS GOOD OR BETTER THAN MOST OTHER FILTERS AT A FRACTION OF THE PRICE, I'VE BEEN USING THEM FOR MANY YEARS AND NEVER HAD ANY ISSUES WITH THEM.
Yeah i see no problems with them as they are made with quality. What should we try next?
SuperTech (WM) is made by Champion as is KN.
The KN hex, safety wire hole, and thick body should tip you off that these are Champion aircraft filters.
Champion also makes many private label brands.
Mopar, AC, NAPA, OReilly, AZ, and others.
Some stores will argue, but.... Its like saying GM makes Cadillac and Chevy brands, so all Chevies are really Cadillacs.
@@hotrodray6802 Champ Labs also makes some AC Delco filters. Almost any filter that has an open black plastic cage as the inside support for the element is made by them. The have a patent for that feature. None of the filters Nate reviews here have that feature because of the application.
@@brucebeauvais1324 I really like that plastic open cage design. Seems much less restrictive than other designs and I've never seen a problem with them when I'm changing them out. Interesting point on champion, I didn't know that. Thanks.
I installed one on my jeep and the oil pressure gauge was pegged at like 80PSI ,drove to the store and bought a Motorcraft and it went back to normal.
Very good videos... MANN+HUMMEL is the owner and manufacturer of wix, purulator, and it's looks like Bosch too... Hey can you cut and compare some OEM filters, like Hyundai, Toyota, Honda, and some ones please???
Mann also is the manufacturer of Hyundai
Thanks
My goto filter is supertech st6607 since the car it is for oil change is 3-4k miles. Secondary is FRAM PH7317
I wouldn’t use either for 10k miles that they claim. Maybe 5-6k Max.
I did use to use FRAM filters years ago never had any problems but I was always changing every 3-4k miles.
Then I wised up and found better filter that was cheeper.
Which other filter?
I use fram@ super tech filters an ac delco.wixs.never had any problems.5000 mile oil change intervals or less also had good luck with Qstate filters.
Q-state filters are manufactured by Honeywell Allied
Man.
Bottom line change your oil on time.
@@chrishouston1406 YES!..Oil is CHEAP!..Engines are NOT!
The question is - how well do they actually filter dirt?
I’ve been using the K&N filter on my Subaru without any problems. They’re also much easier to remove because of the nut on the end of the filter.
If I can get a grip on the filter I have had 100% success using the age old forearm muscle.
@@micahwest5347 Not a chance, it's a hydraulic seal sometimes, they just don't budge sometimes.
@@steved8714 like I said, “I” have a 100% success rate. Fly me out next time you need help. Or save yourself some money and do grip/forearm exercises regularly. It’s not like you even have to get close to a captains of crush level of grip strength to be exceptional and stand out in our pampered modern society.
I use a wrench, so there's that -no use going crazy to remove a filter 😅
So what's good? I'm confused.
Joel Smith...Mobil 1...Wix XP...30+ year ASE Certified Auto Technician..
Makes me love the cartridge style oil filters on my cars. No rust. Can easily be inspected upon removal during the change. Great video 👍!
Good point 540i .
The problem with cartridge filters is alot of cars are very limited on the amount of filters available.
Never thought of that. One good thing at least
Great point thanks for sharing
Awesome video would have been nice to see an overall conclusion. In my mind it seems like there’s faults with all of them and none of them look like they are the clear winner. Which one do you recommend?
GF went to a quick change oil place for her 2018 Subaru with 23,000 miles. They put on a "Service Champ" filter. At cold start up the engine would knock briefly until the oil pressure came up. I bought a filter from Subaru and the cold knock went away. I had this same problem years ago on my Lotus when I put a Fram filter on it. Putting a different (better quality) filter on it and the cold knock went away. So, there is a difference in filters. Be aware. Personally, I will not use a Fram and now a "Service Champ". I will use WixXP, Mobil1 and K&N.
At the end of the day, it's really simple, run whatever you want. Everyone has their anecdotes on the subject. You always have someone vouching and swears by any of these filters. Then you'll also have the horror stories as well.
I've seen surface rust, don't think will come off, it should stop when oil gets in it(unless you have water in your crankcase).
My personal choice for the best oil filter is the Wix xp and for cost supertech
Could you please elaborate in details why it is your choice? Thanks
@@Albert-fg4kj I agree, Nate could you tell us what features of the xp makes it your fav? Thanks!
the XP is for synthetic so make sure you get the correct filter for your oil. Napa filters are Wix and the Napa platinum/Wix XP are my filter of choice because I have 8 vehicles and have used them exclusively for years and years and have never had a problem. I have no other reason as to why I prefer them, just because if something is working great for me why change?
If it ain't broke don't fix it. What would be a good filter or a way to test the filter?
The filter is a high quality synthetic made for long drain intervals. The wix xp uses a steel screen for extra support to make sure the filter holds up and filters evenly. The oil bypass valve is constructed into the filter for more stability. Also they use a steel spring which will give support and you won't need be concerned of unfiltered oil making it through like filters with stamped steel that becomes bent not holding the filter contents tight and properly aligned.
I always go with wix. Never failed me yet. I change my oil and filter every 3000 miles religiously. Purolator is my second.
Two I don't like.
Wix and Purolator are made by the same company. Both are good filters
Been using Mobil 1 for years, switched to Royal Purple for my Evo X last year, still use Mobil 1 on my Impreza
Let's hear this guy say, life is like a box of chocolates...
Life is like a bunch of filters, some leave a little piece of themselves behind...
A filtering test would be a real test on filterability.
I have been using Wix for over 10 years and have never had any problems.
SO WHICH ONE DESTROYED YOUR ENGINE ?
Sadly soon all combustion cars including classics will be banned from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by reducing all conventional fuel stations to only one state operated central gas station per city or county. Now they want to slow down all the gas station fuel pumps from 20 litre per minute to 2 litre per minute...From 2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime. :-(((
I really like that you weren't afraid to name names for once, so many people making these kind of vids seem terrified of pi$$ing off somebody or some company so they dance around it, drop hints and expect you to figure out who... thanks for coming right out and saying the company names! So I know what product to AVOID.
Thanks for the time that you put into this video and letting us know the facts.
Merry Christmas!!!!! 🎄
You too!
I’ve been using fram since I’ve been driving. I’m 63 and never had a problem.
seen this stuff so many times - don't care what's inside, show. which filter makes the engine last the longest?
Drain back valves are not an issue until the filter is at a 90⁰ or vertical. Surface rust from sitting on the shelf isn't an issue. Bypass valve and filtering ability is what I want.
It's a major issue for many engines. Running a filter without a good anti-drainback valve will absolutely destroy engines like the AMC/Jeep 4.0.
my Alfa Romeo had the filter on the side at 90⁰ and Toyota A series engines like 4age also have the filter on the side at 90⁰. Many Subaru engines have the filter on top. Some VW/Audi engines too and I'm sure many others. Fram filter on my Alfa Romeo caused slow build up of oil pressure on startup due to faulty drain back valve.
Nate it's guys like who, use their time and money, for us users of the products you review. It's guys like you that make YT invaluable.
A sincere thank you.
Is your check in the mail?
Ok so what filter was best??
I do Walmart oil change services. They are not a lot more than the shelf cost of the oil , filter. They have all the oil and filters . What they have on the shelf you can use for change. My 06 f250 powerstroke. Shell t4, motorcraft filter. $90.00 . Taurus with Vulcan. < $25.00 Supertech oil and filter. Been Doing for long time. with multiple vehicles. I was a do myself forever, mainly cost , with a lot of cars. 15 years at Wallys . No charge battery install. Buy it they install. I have twice needed a battery at night . 24 hr Wally pretty handy .
I don't understand. He doesn't make any real conclusions, just describes the insides and outsides, NIA I'm going MIA.
Got a 97 vw cabrio with 240k miles...been using Fram oil filter with Castrol oil...no problems
Can you cut open a Purolator One and Purolator Boss oil filter??
I always take the filter out of the box to make sure it's the right one. & I look inside for contamination and moisture. K&n is the one I go with.
Jim is right, always take filter out of box and examine well at parts store, seen several switched out to lesser quality filters.
As an old timer,I recall oil filters from 50's and early 60's had a canister to hold the filter ,some drivers would put a roll of toilet paper in the canister to save a few dollars not sure if the practice was efficient or detrimental but never heard any mishaps !
JC Whitney used to sell the toilet paper filter canisters.
Nissan used t-paper filters on the 240z.@@robertopenheimer1451
I THINK IF YOU WHAT TO TO SEE YOUR VIEWERS MORE OFTEN IT MAKES SENSE TO NOT ONLY ANSWER THIER QUESTIONS
BUT TO TELL THEM EXACTLY WHAT BRAND IS GOOD.
How do you now it was the filter that destroyed your engine?
I use the gold Fram filter on all 3 of my old cars with Walmart high mileage synthetic oil. No problems.
I've had several cars, trucks and motorcycles in my lifetime.
I've been driving since before I was even old enough to qualify for a driver's license.
I learned to wrench starting when I had to build bicycles from parts because I couldn't afford to by one. I had to learn to work on cars to keep mine running. I almost always changed my own oil and filters regularly. In all these years, I've Never had an oil filter Fail...
I'm more interested in micron filtration numbers, and Oil Analysis results.
Because I've never seen it... I'd like to see a comparison as to how well one filter actually filters the motor oil compared to another.
You know, I have a 99 GMC Suburban with the 5.7 230k miles on it, she does suffer from piston slap on cold starts and has been for the last 8 years, I do my oil changes darn near when they need it, Installed a Wix filter and used some Valvoline 10w40 to increase the oil pressure a little. And yesterday I went out and got me something to eat and at the drive threw I noticed my truck making all sorts of like top end noise, My oil pressure dropped to zero at idle, as long as I kept on the gas a little it was around 15 -20 psi which was still lower than normal when giving it gas. I made the 8 mile trip home as long as I kept on the gas it was fine. I immediately drained the oil and pulled the filter and no sparking nothing that would catch my eye, Of course I pulled the oil filter out and noticed it was heavy, like not a lot of oil came out of it like normal and yes I had the proper amount of oil in my truck.
I installed a cheap Fram and used the Fram oil, was a deal and what do you know, my oil pressure was back to normal, on cold around 60psi, once at normal operating temp around 20psi at idle and normal driving around 30 to 40psi at 2k rpms, it no longer dropped to 0psi.
I still had over 1500miles before my next oil change.... I bet you I will not use another Wix filter, I always hear good about them, and I thought I was going to be doing a oil pump and pick up on my Suburban this week, but it was just a bad filter. I always hear horror stories about Fram, but I didn't expect to have any sort of issues with Wix. It could of been bad if someone who didn't know what to look for, On my Suburban, all it says is "Check Gauges" No oil light or anything lol.
Wix, Hastings, K&N or Napa Gold are the only filter I use any more. I just picked up a Wix filter, no box and wrapped in plastic.
The ones wrapped in plastic are Wix ProTech filters meant to be sold to auto shops for the oil change service bay. They're just a generic Wix with white paint and the price is really low, a dollar or two, because those oil change places have to make some money on a $25 cheap oil change. ProTech gets them some margin. But it's a Wix so usually a good choice anyway.
@@LatitudeSky This Wix filter came from a local aotu parts store, black paint, looks like a regular Wix filter.
Small rust in the Filter won't effect much of anything that's what the engine oil is there to protect the engine from
The hole in the K&N isn't for a string in case it falls off. LOL! It's for a safety wire like they do on airplane components so it can't back off. Pretty much at 14:00 so far I think you don't know a whole lot. Where's the Purolators?
If he the hole was to keep filter falling off and hit car behind you, cant think he alot of experience
I’ve watched so many of these oil filter videos and every one state a different brand we should not use and brands you should use
Well that was freaking weird! I got nothing from that.
"Avoid the orange can, avoid the Fram "
I've been using Fram Tough Guard for over 35 years on my vehicles. Have put hundreds of thousands of miles on them and never had one issue. Not one engine burned/s oil and I go an average of 7500 miles between changes.
Me too
Oh, and a little tiny dent in that k&n filter that doesn’t matter one single bit is not standard on all k&n filters. Just thought I’d throw that in there. You can pretty much beat the hell out of these things before they don’t perform as it should
The reason I felt the need to throw that in there is because you’ve mentioned that little Nick more than once, as if it was an issue with the filters
I use the Fram ultra synthetic and they seem to be just as good as the others to me.
YES!.. ULTRA SYN. FRAM GOLD filters are very good ...definitely the Best Fram filter...the Orange & Silver filters are CRAP!
Well a filter change will eliminate problems tough guard Fram 281k on truck 3 258k truck 2 221k truck 3
After listening this guy talks, I still confused of what he said. I read other readers' comment ,I come up with the same result.
He should be more specific and to the point.