Is Synthetic Motor Oil Better For Your Car?
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- Опубліковано 20 чер 2024
- Is synthetic motor oil better than conventional oil?
Synthetic Motor Oil Myths - • Motor Oil Myths & FAQs...
Thank you to Pennzoil for bringing me out to the 2016 Canadian GP and sponsoring this video! This video has been compensated by GarageMonkey and its advertiser. All opinions are mine alone.
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The viscosity of an oil is its resistance to flow. A greater viscosity means more resistance to flow, or a thicker oil. A lower viscosity means a thinner oil.
Before understanding the benefits of synthetic motor oils, like this Pennzoil Platinum derived from natural gas, we first need to understand the rating system used for motor oils. You’ll often hear 5W-30, or 0W-20 as ratings used in cars today. These are multi-grade viscosity oils, meaning their viscosity grade changes with temperature. The first number, followed by a W, is the cold rating (W stands for Winter), and this means the oil behaves like an SAE 5 grade motor oil (using 5W-30 as the example) while cold, but at operating temperature, at about 100 degrees C, it operates like an SAE 30 grade motor oil.
Now 30 is higher than 5, so initially it may seem that the oil would get thicker at higher temperatures, which is obviously not the case. A straight SAE 30 grade oil will be thicker at lower temperatures, as will a 5 grade oil. Even though a 30 weight oil is thicker than a 5 weight oil, at 100C the 30 weight will be thinner than a cold 5 grade oil.
Low viscosity at low temperatures is important, because this is where a significant amount of engine wear occurs, so it’s critical to maximize oil flow to protect the engine. At colder temperatures, thinner oils will flow better and thus offer better protection.
For a conventional oil, for example while creating a 5W-30 oil, you’ll start with a base oil similar to an SAE grade 5 motor oil, and include additives to alter the viscosity rating. To improve low temperature flow, pour point depressants (PPDs) are added. To increase the viscosity at high temperatures, viscosity index improvers (VIIs) are added. VI improvers are polymers which expand in heat, making it more difficult for flow, thus increasing the viscosity.
Synthetic oils, however, can have base oils which are already formulated as a multi-grade oil, meaning you don’t necessarily need additives, or as much additives, to alter the viscosity at different temperatures. The major benefit here is that additives tend to break down over time, so synthetic oils will maintain their original viscosity properties much better throughout the engine oil drain interval versus conventional oils. (Diagram illustrating viscosity vs temperature)
If you were to plot two 5W-30 motor oils, one conventional and one synthetic, at the beginning of the oil change interval, they would have similar viscosity properties. At the end of the interval, however, the synthetic would act nearly identical to the original oil, while the conventional oil would be thicker at low temps, and thinner at high temps.
Now does this mean that with synthetic motor oils you can extend your engine oil drain interval? No! It just means your engine is better protected throughout the engine oil drain interval. There are still additives (anti-wear, dispersants, anti-foam, detergents, rust inhibitors, corrosion inhibitors) which wear out over time, so you should always change at whatever interval your owners manual suggests.
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I have a VW 2L turbo engine in my car, so I don't need to worry about old oil as VW have thoughtfully made engines that burn through the oil at alarming rates, meaning the oil in my car is never that old! Another innovative feature from the VW group.
VW's cars are hideously badly built. I have one. Never having anothter
paulanderson79 I love the car, and I'd say it's well built. It's just that particular "feature" I'm not so crazy about.
Those engines shouldn't burn oil as long as the correct engine oil grade has been used (normally 5w 30). If someone once put 10w 40 or something else in it will always be an oil burner from then on.
Truetube2000 Well I've always used 5w30 (per the manual), and always had it serviced in the official garage for the stamp. I can't speak for the previous owner though...
I change my oil every 5 - 6 thousand miles even though the manual says 12000. 12000 is too long an interval in my opinion, my van smoked when I got it but stopped after a couple of oil changes. It has started to again a bit now but it's covered 125,000, it was only on 68,000 when I got it.
I was active duty US Air Force for 24 yrs and retired a few years back but long story short (hopefully) I managed laboratories that tested aircraft engine oils for wear and tear. We used Atomic Emission Mass Fluid Spectrometers to test at the molecular level...normally in PPM or parts per million. We tested about 16 different elements for wear in particular places in any given engine. We started using synthetics many years ago...say early 80's. We kept meticulous records on each serialized engine so we could create and track wear. I can't go into great detail but suffice it to say that we started off testing every flight and then moved to 400 flight hrs, then 800, then 1200, (for oil changes) then only when we had a engine problem. Some places still test every flight hr but synthetic oils proved to be the best as far as wear and tear. I switched all my vehicles to synthetic at their 1st oil change. I would not recommend switching a vehicle to synthetics if it has a lot of wear miles on it because synthetic oils will "slide" around worn parts. Another big plus for synthetics is you can qchange your oil at half or more the rate of conventional so if it's recommended every 3000 miles then it's safe to go to 6 or 7000. In My Opinion! I have been doing this since the mid 1980's and I had the ability to test these same oils for wear. If you spend $30.00 every 6 or 7000 then you'll save at least one oil change plus synthetics wear better, give better lubrication, are not as heat ploblematic as far as heat transfer, and don't break down like conventional oils. Just my 2 cents.
+Mr51Caveman thanks for sharing your insight and experiences!
Mr51Caveman
Mr51Caveman .
There were some guys that did a test with a brand new car and synthetic oil, and setup to just replace the filter every interval and top off the oil. I believe they used Mobile 1 but not entirely sure. They had detailed breakdowns on their site of tests they had done (by an independent lab) and aside from some outlier tests (single tests that resulted in results indicating possible or approaching trouble) they got by quite well for iirc 75k miles without doing more than topping off the oil/replacing the filter every 3000 miles. Also iirc the car they selected was one of those that had the filter attached by hoses to the side of the engine well instead of under the engine, so it did not lose a great deal of oil on replacement. They were mechanics of some sort btw. I think they intended to tear the engine down at 100k but things got sidetracked.
I bought a 2008 Minivan and it had 102K miles on the engine but it also had records where the oil had been changed regularly. As I stated earlier I wouldn't normally recommend switching to synthetics at higher miles but newer vehicles have better built engines....so that said I switched the oil in this van to synthetics. I was totally amazed at the difference in engine sound, heat and fuel conservation immediately. I could hear the engine "hum" settle down and ran much smoother. I tested literally thousands of flight hrs on F-15's, F-16's, F-117's, F-4's, A-10's, Ch-57's, HH-60's, T-38's, T-37's and some ground support equipment (probably some more aircraft...I've just forgotten!). All used synthetics and we saw a dramatic difference in wear and tear plus other performance factor's. I personally go upwards of 10K + on my vehicles before changing the oil. No issues in over 25 yrs. Oh, also I hold degrees in Aviation Technology and Metals Technology and I had to keep many Oil Analysis laboratories certified on a monthly basis.
I'm an engineer and its hard for me to learn something new that blows me away and today my friend you totally made me learn something new with the demo. Thanks, Ill be going fully synthetic from now on.
Glad you enjoyed the video!
@E😅😅😅ngineeringExplained
I just switched to synthetic oil in my high mileage engine. I can tell the difference by the sound. It runs a lot quieter
Same here!
@@rebel8440 ditto
What bike you drive?
Same here. My bikes around 12 years old and done 60.000km+. Uses many oils, from minerals to synthetics. So far synthetics are better in durability, reduce engine temp and noise, also fuel economy and better engine performance bonuses.
Did the same on my 04 with well over 200 hundred thousand miles, big difference.
I'm partial to Royal Purple!
I felt like I am watching a school lecture.. but at least this one is relevant and beneficial to my life.
That's a good point!
i use non-stick cooking spray as my motor oil
yeah that works pretty good keeps the valves from sticking
Personally, with every motor I get I'll substitute one cup of lard with the initial oil change and I run it 2x past the recommended oil change interval. I now have three trucks with beyond 450k miles and they run like they're brand new. One is at 750k because of this initial seasoning. :)
I have read you can use canola oil and its just as good or better, but the oil industry wanted us to use ground oil so they can keep their profits and control over us, canola is cheaper by a lot.
same. i use a tub of lard as an additive.
bacon grease works too, can't get enough of that smell coming out the exhaust
WOW! Someone finally explained oil viscosity properly! I've seen your videos before I don't know why I didn't just come to your channel in the first place.
it's so clear that you enjoy your work and enjoy explaining things to other people. your explanations are very clear and helpful. keep up the passion and good work.
I've been watching a few of your videos now and have to say they are EXCELLENT. You are excellent at communicating this data - clear, natural and easy to watch/listen to. Can't say that about all UA-camrs - rock on brother!
The manual for my car says to use 10W-40, but Ive found using WD-40 instead runs better at start up
RealDarkFilm
funny
RealDarkFilm
Non squeaky engine too!
40 is 40, chaaa whatever.
Lethal Snipes
He lives in Humorous.
It's a place where ppl make jokes that are funnier when other people don't quite get them.
The mayor thanks you for your comment
Ya, I can see that.
RealDarkFilm You silly Sally 😂😂
6:32 - *_FREEDOM!!!!_*
That took around a minute. Holy crap.
Great description for a layman to comprehend. It's crystal clear now, and the example spells it our for the visual thinkers, thank you.
I've found ketchup with a bit of mayonnaise mixed in works best with my Miata. It must be that Japanese engineering that requires the extra premium lubricant
Yeah. You can also add a bit of vinegar to thin it down
+Sci-Fi Hooligan Yup. I import my vinegar from Japan so it's JDM af
cmon bro u use soy sauce to feed the rice thats all I use on my mazdaspeed3
Ewww, none of that Mormon "Fry Sauce" in my engine please. Pure Mustard in Texas!
Alvin Brinson Mustard works in a pinch too!
This guy should have been the new Spock.
+TheTractionFaction lol
funny cause the whole time I was wishing he was mute
Live long and prosper!
Fascinating....
I fail to see the humor in that observation. I do however, understand your need for it.
I worked at Jiffy Lube 16 years ago and they never explained this to us. We just knew that Full Synthetic was better than conventional. Thank you for the detailed break down!
5:34 Here's the part you're here for.
Cool - i appreciate Your Help 🙌🏻
Thank you
Thanks
I still don't get it. Can you explain please
Thank god my brain was starting to hurt!!
There's really no excuse to be using non-synthetic oil... you can buy 5 quarts of full synthetic Mobil 1 at Walmart for like $25.
That's a fair point, but I assume most of the people watching this channel are in the US? Isn't BMW oil technically cheaper in Germany since you guys don't have to import it?
Provided your vehicle is fairly modern. Older engines won't take this. It'd be nice but from what I hear is it's so thin there have been reports of leaks and pressure issues (here comes the dash light!) so keep that in mind.
I'm using Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 in my 1984 Caprice, no issues except now the engine leaks drops of oil upon shutoff. That may be either from the oil's slightly thinner viscosity or it may be from the synthetic oil cleaning the engine so well that it removed false seals made from sludge, or both. In severe cases of engine abuse it can remove sludge too fast and block oil passageways.
+Austin Lucas So go back to conventional and see if the leak goes away. That way you know if it was the oil or the false seal.
I can't use synthetic oil its too thin and it leaks in older vehicles.
What a fantastically helpful lecture---thanks very much!
Good job at explaining the deltas between synthetic and conventional motor oils. Your presentation was direct, straight forward, and easy to understand. Keep up the good work.
That final "science lab" demo has blown my mind a bit! As a classic car owner, we are told to routinely change oil either every year, or every 3K miles. Compared to modern cars and oils, that seems crazy. But of course we use (modern grade) 20\50 classic engine oil. I never really understood, until now, why the frequency was so necessary, given that I routinely do 10K miles in my BMW between changes. But your science lab demo explains this perfectly. It's actually quite scary how the used "conventional oil" flows, compared to when it is new. Many thanks. Super helpful
Fantastic explanation overall! Particularly helpful for me at 4:30 to decide whether to cutover to synthetic on a high mileage engine. Additive retention is key, and synthetics do it better.
Very informative video. I've always had this discussion with my friends about the thickness or flow of variable viscosity motor oils, and they never accepted the behaviour of motor oil that you discrubed at the first part. Very nice explanation with good chart demonstration. Very well done
Shahab Siahpoosh has
No such thing as non-variable viscosity. Ain't a fluid on the planet that doesn't change in some way when you change its temperature.
Synthetic motor oils are our best attempt at getting a fluid which normally goes from nearly solid (when it's cold) to runny as runny gets (when it's hot) to go from sort of runny to kind of runny given the same temperature change. Ideally we want it fixed, but hey - that's nature and inginerding will always be a compromise
This guy had the best and clearest explanations for modern engines I've seen on the net. I use his films to explain engines to my girlfriend. Keep up the excellent work.
Good stuff, thanks for the clear precise explanation of multi vis oils etc. Some on the web call the "W" oils as winter oil without paying attention to the temp.
Sold motor oils for years. Also conducted hundreds of oil analysis for contaminants and longevity. Two basic rules are: Use a high quality oil. Use a very high quality filter. Typical standard motor oil will last 6000 to 8000 miles in a healthy engine. Synthetic oils will last 12000 to 15000 miles in a healthy engine. If you're ever curious about your particular engine, get an oil analysis kit from your parts store and do your own analysis. You mail a sample of your used oil into a lab, and they send you a report of it's condiiton. Increase the mileage between each change until the analysis shows that the oil is beginning to degrade.
Thats a great idea me and her go for hours and we get sore that lube needs to get tested... I yold her that but she just kept going...
Whats a high quality oil brand you'd recommend?
+jukijunk Amsoil by far the best oil out there.
back a few years ago i think it was 20/20 that did a 5 year test on all oils,all brands,using n.y. taxi cabs as test cars.all cars had exceeded 200k miles,most were over 300k miles,they then tore apart each and every engine to examine the wear diff., and guess what? not a single diff. between any brand or type of oil used,they all did the same thing. maybe you should just try running the prem. gas in your car instead? idiots like you,smh
Amsoil is not "by far the best oil out there". Don't listen to fanboys. To find the best oil look for the best performing additive. Since the mid 90's, that additive has been held under a patent by Valvoline. But honestly, it doesn't matter. The main thing is to change your oil when necessary and to keep the oil in the engine. Working as an auto tech in large dealerships, I never saw an engine problem on a vehicle that got regular maintenance and was kept leak free (not counting sudden cooling problems coupled with customers who just wanted to "make it home"). The deal is that engines will easily outlast the rest of the vehicle with just regular maintenance. You could use the cheapest oil out there, as long as it is maintained, and your engine will outlast your suspension, AC, rack and pinion, etc. To me the argument of synthetic versus conventional is mute. It is simply unnecessary to use synthetic oil unless you are live in an extremely cold environment. Also synthetic oil can cause problems during break in as it can prevent the valve stem seals from seating, causing the vehicle to burn/lose oil. For example, a lady who bought a new Avalon back in '07 insisted we put synthetic oil in her brand new car. We protested and were called liars who "just want to cause problems for her". Long story short she paid out over a thousand dollars to have her motor fixed less than 15k miles later. Another problem with synthetic oil is it can cause oil leaks in vehicles that have run conventional oil for over 50k miles with less than ideal maintenance. This is especially true for people who do this with wax based oils like Havoline, which separates as it degrades. The molecules in synthetic oil are of a similar size where with conventional oil they are all different sizes. In a nutshell the synthetic oil can wash out the larger conventional molecules around a seal and cause leaks.
I know it's very difficult to fit all the needed info on topics like this into a short video. This channel does a great job of squeezing in alot of good information and explanation into such a short video.
I spend alot of time trying to explain basic oil understanding to customers and other mechanical enthusiasts. Alot more to explain when it comes to motorcycles that use a wet clutch as most motorcycles these days do. With a motorcycle that uses the same oil in it's engine as well as connected transmission and clutch case, be careful not to use automotive oils with friction reducing additives, they will cause clutch drive plate to friction plate slippage and engagement issues.
Thanks man the polymer expansion makes the whole explanation of multigrade oils clear to me now.
Never knew all this...but I wondered! Thank you for explaining it so well.
Viscosity is important in an oil and the synthetics do shine in that department when extreme temp conditions/variations exist. Usually, filtration is the more critical component. 20+ yrs. hydraulics field.
This should be a required video for anyone that owns a car to watch.
Agreed! Basic vehicle maintenance and check test should to be required to get a license. Common sense test too lol. 😁
then how would mechanics make money on easy jobs that most people have no idea how to do like changing fluids in a car
as for the common sense test would be to hard for most people to get a license
+Alex Richardson unless they own a rotary powered car
I am stunned you have Polish captions on so many videos here. You must have a secret admirer in Poland or sth 😁
Awesome explanation! That makes sense. I always wondered specifically why synthetic oil is better than conventional oil.
I put water in my engine and runs like a dream
My engine makes water when it burns hydrocarbons. Imagine that.
+wholeNwon oh yeah, my engine makes dildos and i give them to my harem
strawberry yogurt works for mine.
+Michael D
if I had a harem, they wouldn't need dildos.
i used olive oil 100% natural run good and healthy
1,000,000th subscriber right here! 🎊🎊🎊🎉🎉🎉
Excellent coverage of what are the specific differences between synthetic and conventional oil products. Thanks for your intuitive instruction.
Thanks for the fantastic explanations and demo. I love the graphs too.
I use olive oil to lubricate my car
add a little feta
+steve6493 and some oregano over it
fit a blow off that yells "opa!"
also good on nipples
I hope it's Extra Virgin Cold Pressed...
* Brain melts from the overwhelmingly amazing education of this video *
I am surprised to know that I can actually understand what he said in the video, good job man, good illustration, it is very clear to show the graph, the demo, and all!
The best and usefuk engineering channel ! It balances deep technical knowledge with daily basis practical usage.
A very good, very clear explanation and demonstration of why synthetic is a lot better than dino oil. Thank you.
if by dino you mean fossil based then sorry, synthetic oil contans as much dino as conventional does
@@Alvenek No it doesn't.
@@nicoctane1669 yes it does buddy. the "synthetic" only refers to the chemical enhancement/purification of the petroleum, but it's still petroleum. synthetic oils made from non-petroleum products are produced, but are not used in passenger vehicles
@@Alvenek No you're way off.
FOR OLD CAR OWNERS:
if your car has +100.000 miles (Yeah i have an old Japan made Toyota and not thinking in changing it for the new crap) and you put Syntetic you are using your car with an oil too thin for a engine that has years of wear. put some good old mineral and dont be lazy and change it with when it says you should change it. let your engine warm a little before driving specially in winter (Oil takes a couple mins to move around the engine correctly) and you will have a happy old car.
Sorry for my english.
Should I use mineral oil in my 160,000 mile VW Passat?
absolutely
You should use what VW recommends in your owner's manual...period.
API service grades (SN) is current are backward compatible.
I do. I just wanted to see what others suggest. I use fully synthetic 5w30 to VW 507.00 specification. PD injectors are savage on oil.
Alejandro medina, except you have it wrong. Letting your car idle to warm up is a big no no, and should only be practiced places with a serious winter. While the parts are cold on your car it's doing more damage to the engine then when its hot. The best way to warm up a car is to drive it. certainly don't rev it hard, but just get it moving and it will be better for it.
Yours videos are really awesome!!! Congrats for your great knowledge and easy explanation!!!! Keep going bro!
Wow thank you for expaining it...and im a woman who was trying to finally figure out which one is the best and I plan to do my own oil change for the first time this helps a lot thank you
Man, so loving the videos! Keep them coming! I have a question, though, and it's related to "racing" oils. I've seen these in 0W-30 and 0W-50. Can you explain why you wouldn't want to use these in anything other than a racing application, and why you wouldn't want to use the more common viscosities in a racing application?
To summarise they have better wear properties but tend to break down quicker hence why some like royal purple are advertised as a track only oil where you would dump it after a day of hard driving etc
And that's why I change my conventional oil every 3,000 miles on the dot...or sooner depending on how heavy my right foot has been. (Turbo's cook the crap out of oil...high zinc content is good too) Also consult your owners manual, a lot of cars can use a range of oil weights depending on the climate you live in. the "recommended" weight is more about fuel economy than protecting your engine.
Why would you choose to use conventional oil? Especially if you have a modified car.
teh vee teh vee what are you even talking about? There is only benefit when it comes to viscosity at certain temps for synthetic. The other part of your comment maakes zero sense.
+teh vee teh vee ya im not following... if it's turbo it SHOULD be synthetic. it's not about oil life or anything to do with viscosity. it's about protection at higher temps, turbos stay at 500°- 600°F at idle and even up to 1500°F when under hard driving conditions. oil runs though your turbo and is the same concept as crankshaft main bearings (except ball bearing turbos) and oil cooks in the turbos thats why they reccomend leaving your turbo car to idle before shutting off so your oil, and coolent in my case can bring the turbo back down to a more reasonable temp, so that when oil flow stops it dosent cook the oil/coolent.i use pennzoil platinum 5w30 and change at 3000mi
+Ryan Rohauer Yea I don't know what he is talking about either. I doubt he will reply though.
Why do I sometimes hear running liquid sound after I shut off my turbo Jetta. Is that the reason?
Thank you! Best explanation I have seen from any source. You are a great teacher.
Finally I have understood the grading.. Thank youu
This is simple science.
Conventional was simply discovered to work with engines after some coaxing.
Synthetic was DESIGNED to work with engines. Specifically engineered to work with them.
I'll gladly pay the premium to get a product that was designed to work as opposed to, "Hey this seems to work!"
BigDaddyJinx
Me too. Happy to pay $15 for five quarts of Walmart synthetic. 😁
so is the answer yes, yes synthetic motor oils are better than conventional?
+Noah Kuzel yes.
even if its a 50 year old car?
That is a myth that is not true
)Peron1-MC( yes, mostly. If U want drive next 50 years.
And also if it is a 50 year old car thtat gets driven only on weekends (sometimes even a couple of days per month) do I change the oil on a given amount of miles or on a given amount of time? and wich amounts would be those? Thanks in advance.
Nice video, very informative. I think people who prefer conventional oil can still use it, but just know that you have to change it more often. Users of synthetic oil can go longer between oil changes, however, the problem is that some people think they can drive forever between oil changes and then end up never changing their oil. So even if you use a high quality synthetic oil it still has to be changed along with the filter.
A few problems, I had a shop in the Twin Cities in MN. and took care of about 100 3/4 and 1 ton vans some diesel but most gas.
They all where very tough duty cycle and high mileage . At the owners request we serviced the gas vans at 3000 miles and the diesel at 6000. At my own discretion I used Shell Rotella 15W40 in all the engines.
Now hers the problem after nine years following this practice we had two failures one a scrap popped up from road surface and whacked the filter on a Chev G10the other was a Ford/Cat 3208 that was a reman that never held together.
Now the rest where all models of Chev and Ford engines both gas and diesel that all had high miles. One fleet was Chev 4.3L that the owner would not sell until they had 400000 miles on them. Many others had as many miled and dam few with less.
But the winner was a 1996 Ford E350 with a 460 V8 a 4 speed COM trans and 3.90 rear end.This unit had just bumped over one million miles with the engine and trans having never been opened up ,NEVER !
Needles to say I'm not a big fan of synthetic oil. Great in H D transmissions and rear ends.
My head still spinning... I was like, can You repeat this again 3 times
You actually save money and time and engine wear by using synthetic. Most conventional oils now can go 5,000 miles and oil and a filter generally will run you around 20 bucks. You can get fully synthetic oil and a compatible filter for around 30 bucks and can go 10,000 miles with it easily. Less time and less money and it helps your engine last longer!
There are even oils like Mobil 1 who have a 15,000 mile and now recently they just introduced a 20,000 mile oil
Now would I run an oil 20,000 miles? No. I run Mobil 1's extended performance rated for 15,000 miles and change it at 10,000 miles so I know the additive package still has thousands of miles more before it starts to break down. That's just what I do
The oil will actually outlast the oil filter- that is why I change out before the mileage rating of the oil.
Synthetic oil prices are not that much of a higher price. At least if I buy them at walmart or order them. I pay about $22 plus $7 for synth filter. For the diy it is a good investment not so good if you go jifflube the rip u off.
Amsoil last 25,000 miles before oil change but you change your oil filter in between or half way, using their oil filter
Oil is too cheap too still cheap out keeping it for 10k miles. I'll pay 20 bucks to change my cars synthetic oil and filter every 5k and have it outlast the rest of the car.
@@marcorubio3496 Fram Ultra Synthetic filter. Great price great oil filter. Use it all the time. Valvoline 5w20 full synthetic oil. You can choose any top tier oil you like. It's the filter that make the difference. Shawn
Subscribed! Explains things very nicely. 🙂
I loved how informative this video was.
Hey man a laser pointer or stick pointer would be very useful. Sometimes your hands and arms block what you're explaining.
Why don't you gift him one
I would be interested engine teardown after 200k miles -- conventional oil vs. synthetic. I currently drive a crown vic--owned since new with 176k and always used a conventional oil. No problems, no oil consumption and through valve cover oil fill opening looks very clean--can actually read casting marks. I change oil every 4k and outside of a mini bike never used synthetic. Im interested in the science behind synthetic but never saw a reason to change. Im an old guy, but back in the day we consistently ran Vavoline and would crank small blocks and big blocks to 5500-6000rpm and never really had a failure that could be pointed to failed lubrication. Im not arguing that synthetic is not better, I m saying if you can drive your car 200,000 miles with no apparent lubrication issues why run synthetic. Conventional oil has served me well. As an educated fellow---would you think there would be a significant difference in wear among components if you took duplicate cars, same climate and same driving styles, each car oil changed at 4000 miles? Thanks I did find the information provided very interesting.
what oil you using?
What climate?
Thx for the detailed video. That answers a lot of questions
The best explanation about multigrade concept that I have seen.Thank you.
Living where it is never cold, but frequently baking, I'd rather see a heat test. What oil can withstand a heatsoaked turbo in 110 degree weather sitting in traffic?
i liked the pennzoil skylines in gt3
Thank you! Keep up the great work! 🌲
I love your channel! You always have a great content and it brings out the nerd in me. 😋😁
I stick with Wesson oil. Love that French fry smell and I make fuel when I change it.
Just skip to 5:30 that's why you came here...hahaha
T S thanks
lol perfect
Thanks, it saved me a couple minutes of my life
T S thanks I was falling asleep
T S this channel is worthy of watching the full video
wonderful explanation . I really appreciates your efforts and presentation thanks alot
Best UA-cam oil video! Nice job and thanks.
Every time you said S80 5 I started daydreaming about V10s!! Haha
+SourLemonSeed he's just a 9 year old kid, leave him alone
+SourLemonSeed im your mother
SAE 50 actually, which is the grade. Curiously, aviation oil grades use double that number. So "grade 100" is SAE 50, and "grade 80" is SAE 40, whereas aviation multi-grade oils use the SAE scale (so 15W50, which is really the only multi-grade aviation oil ever used is the same as an automotive oil of that grade would be).
+Abniel Sanchez ohhhhhhhhhh! Got em!
*facepalm*
So i need synthetic oil with lots of zinc for my 1968 pontiac firebird then...
Amsoil makes some, it's called "Z Rod". It comes in 10w30 or 20w50.
+Austin Lucas too bad it costs an arm and a leg. I drive that thing 30 to 40 thousand miles a year... I have so far just been using diesal 10-30 with great results
For engines that *don't* have a _catalytic converter_ use 15w-40 _diesel_ oil. It has plenty of _zinc._
+faffaflunkie yup. i love that stuff.
Yup, Rotella, delvac or Delo, it's all great stuff. It's been good to the old engines on a few motorcycles too. It can also remove a lot of old crud from Your engine. Best thing is not only is it great, but even the full synthetic rotella T6 is cheaper then regular car synthetic oils.
Very well explained. Love your videos. Thanks!
Waw. A beautiful voice and language. A master of explaining the differences between types of oil. Plz go on
What oil would you use for your teggy? And what would you use if it has over 270,000 km in mileage and is undercompressed and in need of a rebuild??
Sounds like you should use some high mileage oil to minimize how much is burned.
Kanishka Mendis Premium olive oil.
Kanishka Mendis ....I would just turn up the radio louder when it starts rattling.
Kanishka Mendis
Helps a lot ! I have a 1989 Camry LE with about 347,000 miles on it and all I do is change the tires, oil, brakes you know regular must do maintenance and I found that synthetic oil makes this car run better, I can't explain but it does and she will never quit on me !
Wow, that car is older than me. You are good owner.
Toyotas from that era will never die. My dad had a '91 Corolla with over 300k and he did nothing except change the oil and spark plugs. He sold it years ago and I still see it around town occasionally. Great cars.
@@jshepard152 Toyotas from early 90s are almost indestructibly, specially the Corollas.
Otro canal de yutubi
Yep. I had a 2006 that was bulletproof too.
Thanks for such detailed video. I never understood these concepts.
Very clear, concise and to the point... well done!
I liked this video. I've found I no longer have to change my oil with my electric car. That's right, bring on the hate.
You're right, the car just pollutes before you buy it, and fills landfills with batteries.
Ha! Keep telling yourself that. Or, if you want the truth, look it up. Far more pollution comes out of digging for oil, transporting it, refining it and delivering - not to mention, using it in cars - than an EV would dream of using in being built. When the batteries are done, they are recycled.
And... (don't let your head explode) even if EVs were as polluting as ICE cars (they are not), they are 3 to 4 times more efficient so would pollute 3 or 4 times less.
+JoeyRodz74 yeah but electric cars are boring and not fun to drive
Yep. Totally boring.... say most ICE cars next to a Tesla.
+Sergeant Speed
Sorry, but you are misinformed.
First, EV and hybrid vehicle battery packs are not discarded, they are recycled. In many states the recycling is mandated by law.
Second. Lithium, carbon, aluminum and zinc the main components in most EV and hybrid battery packs are not toxic.
I go 15K miles before next change of Syntethic motor oil, if I am busy I easy stretch it to 18 k miles, no probleem, just make sure you replace the oil FILTER with the one for Synthetic oil, Cost more but works fine. I drive my car about 1000 miles a week doing car services.
elruforafa I’ve been using Amsoil for over 20 years in all my cars and my boat. In my cars I go 16,000 miles between changes and change the filters with ones specifically for synthetic (also Amsoil brand) every 4000 miles. Never had an oil related issue with any of my cars. I put about 80 hours per year on my twin Crusader big block 350 hp engines and change the filters every year and the oil every 3 years . Oil usually comes out looking like it just came out of the bottle.
Thanks. That was the clearest explanation of the difference between natural and synthetic oils I've seen. Also I never knew what synthetic oil was manufactured from. Natural gas? Who'd a thunk it? Learn something new every day.
Your channel is very educational and detailed.
Unlike most of the chatter here, I have a serious question.
In your tests, you specified that one oil was new and the other used. I am curious what conditions was the used oil subjected to? how many miles? What type of engine (eg. old or new, was it leaking/burning oil?)? what were the driving conditions? (stop and go vs highway?, towing? other?).
The experiment was an interesting one and I really want to learn the most from it. thanks!
In my opinion that demonstration was a scam. Naturally the 15w won't pour as fast as the 5w at-35f so to use those two against each other to demonstrate old conventional vs old synthetic is wrong. What if the synthetic had been at 15w and the conventional at 5w ? Then the conventional would have poured faster at-35f. Not a real good example because you can't compare apples to oranges! They could have done the demonstration using 5w for both kinds, but they choose not to. Hum, I wonder why?
@@jpol3808 Because if you paid attention to what he was actually saying (the logical piece of the comparison), it's NOT to compare the conventional flow against the synthetic flow, it's to compare the flow rate characteristics of each other. He even stated it point blank in the video, "You might be thinking, 'hey! That's not a fair comparison, because they're not the same viscosity ratings!' But that's not what I'm comparing. What I'm comparing is...", so you may want to pay closer attention to what he's saying rather than being glued to the images. They could've put canola oil instead of synthetic and the point regarding conventional would've still been made, although the point for the synthetic would've been lost since you would see how viscosity changes for canola oil from new to used rather than synthetic properties. Of course, one could always argue, "What brands of oil did you use???"
Bottom Line:
The comparison is for used conventional against new conventional and used synthetic against new synthetic, NOT the types against each other.
Now, to you and OP's point: would I prefer to see syn/con? Sure. Who wouldn't? Seems reasonable to me. However, seeing the viscosity difference (significant increase in conventional) of each when new and used is the evidence he was trying to explain regarding viscosity (or flow rate) from the graphs that he had drawn and explained just before the oil demonstration.
Also, I'm not even sure you can get a 0W-20 fully conventional oil. I know there's syn-blends, but I don't think there's a fully conventional with such a low viscosity for 'Winter' test temperatures. Which proves the advantage of synthetic, again. More stability regarding viscosity across temperatures, which is ideally what you want.
@@ryanshannon7703 lol he's got you fooled. Watch carefully, this is a dramatization and not an actual test of conventional or synthetic oils. Had this been an actual test of motor oil, we would have monitored all parameters and made sure that all specifications were equal. I listened, now you need to let your mind absorb the information your eyes were watching and disregard what your ears were being told. One sample was frozen! Lol real comparison in my book. Now watch as I make this quart of oil disappear! I give up. Buy em a book and send em to school and look what you end up with.... Ryan.
I have a 2004 Toyota Tacoma and I run Synthetic 10w30 in it. I go 10k to 15k between oil changes. I have 215k miles on the truck and it doesn't lose any oil between changes.
If you go that long, you should consider having your oil lab tested to make sure it isn't losing its integrity. If it becomes too thin over time, it could cost you your engine. It is more than just what color the oil is that deems if it is still good or bad oil.
+Jasper Chavis That's why he stated "215k miles, and no repairs and no oil leaks", it might just prove other than what you're thinking or been taught and blindly following.
Synthetic usually lasts a long time. For my car, the recommended interval is 32k miles...(!! ... that's a variable distance which is affected by the type of journeys you do & 2 years max, but for me it always comes out at the max because I do a lot of motorway miles. Currently at 204k on the engine). I actually do it more frequently than that, usually at about the half-way point. No oil loss either, and I had the old oil checked a year or two ago (it was fine).
Qaill1 I don't trust what the bottle says. I use Mobil Advanced which is guaranteed to last 15k, but doesn't seem to last more than 5k. I'm sure it still has life left, but with how much hauling I do with my car, I don't risk it. My car is also at 298k.
WyndStryke what kind of car? I've never seen a service interval recommended by a manufacturer that was more than about 8k.
Another great video explanation. Great Job !
The end was crazy, the difference is so stark.
The owners manual of my car told me to use synthetic only
Most recent cars runs synthetic oils. There are no conventional 0w20 or 0w16 oils. Those grades, like the 5w40, needs a good synthetic base oil.
Hydro cams regulation need only good oil dont want any semisynth
I USED ONLY PEANUT OIL. JUST BECAUSE I LOVE THE SMELL OF ROASTED PEANUTS COMING OUT OF THE EXHAUST !
Me to
Try coconut oil.Though in cold starts it's like Crisco but smells great when it finally heats up.
@@drdysl3xia795 liquid coconut oil is a thing
@@wades623 In 5w20? Clearly the sarcasm went right over your head. ;) All good.. have a Merry Christmas.
😂😂
One really useful thing any car owner can do (besides using synthetic) is to get an oil analysis, done by sending a small sample to the testing company. Last time I had it done, it cost around $30 and the report you receive has very detailed information about the various levels of metals and minerals in you car's motor as revealed by the oil. The analysis that translates what these levels can mean is astounding in what it tells you about the condition of your bearings, rings, cylinders, etc.
Great demo! Very informative.
i learnt something new today, thanks. (i always use syntetic)
I don't know if it's placebo; once I changed to synthetic, I could feel the engine revs more freely.
Same viscosity? If so, placebo.
our Toyota corolla did the same thing. my dad and sister agreed that it seems like it had a easier time after the oil change.
If you switched from mineral oil you prob not wrong about your experience.
It depends on the oil you used. Synthetics can be a little thinner at operating temperature than conventional oils even though they still may say the same exact numbers on the bottle; Pennzoil 5w30 vs. Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 is one example. Check the data sheets if you will, the data for viscosity at 100 degrees C is there for both on Pennzoil's website.
Conventional 5w30:
www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/blends-conventional-oils/conventional/_jcr_content/productDetails.stream/1460058457626/e6823906a59d0b4de695429dc846a59906458592de142344c892fbbba32e26a1/Pennzoil-SAE-5W-30-Motor-Oil.pdf
Platinum 5w30:
www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/full-synthetic-motor-oils/pennzoil-platinum/_jcr_content/productDetails.stream/1460058453075/73d957b370df2e49693e82ece9a0a5bb2f048868be34afadaf2c488ca81a57a5/Pennzoil-Platinum-SAE-5W-30-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil.pdf
***** yes it need one bad.
That was a wonderful diagram representation of straight grade oils vs multi grade.
Thank you for the video. It was super-informative.
Good video on synthetic vs conventional oils. The one thing I would add to this is that if you have a car or truck that has been running on conventional oil for a few years, never switch to synthetic oil. If you do you will have leaks. The reason for that is that the seals get hard with oil and a carbon build up will form that keeps the oil from leaking. Switching to synthetic, a very high detergent oil, will remove the carbon and cause leaking around the shrunken and harden seals.
Now saying that, synthetic oils are the best if you use them starting out with a new car or a freshly rebuilt engine. The seals stay soft and keep oil from leaking and parts from wearing without the carbon build up of conventional oil.
"So that is why synthetic is better than conventional. Now I'd like to thank the synthetic oil co that sponsors this video."
Sheps Pennzoil also makes conventional oil..
And it dries your seals so how about that synthetic oil
😄
Great video. Concise, rapid, clear.
Fantastic video. Great explanation !!
With a few exceptions, many of the comments prove there is such a thing as intellect envy.
LOL!
Lot of theoretic science on this channel. It's good to view things from both theory and experience. If the theory is true that the additives wear out at the same rate between synthetic and conventional oils, then why does *everyone* in the industry recommend a longer interval with synthetic over conventional oil?
Everyone in the industry recommends an oil grade and an oil change interval for their car. This is what you should go buy. Synthetic maintains its viscosity properties longer, as this video demonstrated. That doesn't necessarily mean the oil is any cleaner/dirtier. Do what your owner's manual says.
Krankie V well, today's oil protects better, even conventional oil can safely be used for over 4000 miles. The 3000 mile oil change, is a recommendation from the 60s and 70s. My 92 Honda has a 7500 mile recommended interval, designed before synthetics were available for a reasonable price. I personally wouldn't recommend going far over 5000 miles even on synthetic. That's when I notice a gas mileage decrease on my personal vehicle, pushing 300,000 miles. Purchased with about 190,000 miles and owned for about 10 years now. Been using synthetic since day one. Still all original parts, though the frequent oil changes may be part of the longevity, more than the synthetic.
Wow, I know nothing about cars I mean nothing! But this was the best explained process I have ever heard. You explained it so well it was easy to understand now I know the real difference. Thank you so much!
Thanks for sharing the important knowledge.