I remember my stepdad talking about this type of filter many years ago, but I was not sure I really believed it. I just happened to think of this today, did a search and came across your video.
U made me smile... u have a high level of problemsolving, build ur own house, fix stuff on ur car i didnt even know existed, yet a toiletpaper roll almost got u stuck ;). Keep on the good work, love ur movies!
I have used these filters for nearly 60 years now and they work really well. ALWAYS install as a BYPASS filter. They keep your engine clean . I mount upside down so changing is just releasing, removing, draining and CLEANING, and reinstalling. They CLAIM you don't have to change oil, just filter, but I never bought into that.
I bought into the no more oil drains when I installed the Frantz on my nearly new Rambler American.It has worked well for me. I probably change the filter and add more new oil that most. I always try to mount the filters upright in a place where they can drain at shut down. If air cant enter the filters they wont drain. I would do every 2 K miles on a Diesel.
Was just down at Walmart. I picked up a 16 pack of Great Value 1000. I converted some M 30 Motor Guard compressed air filters to lube oil. This package was just the right size for the Motor Guard. Because the last sheet was glued it didnt pinch in the gasket. The Motor Guard liked to pinch that last sheet. The core was a little larger than the Frantz tube which is no problem if you know how to change the Frantz. With this paper you might not need to unroll paper with the Frantz. They keep messing with the size. I guess I will have to take a tape measure with me the next tjme.
My 76 F250 with the 390 has a Motor Guard on the oil and a Gulf Coast junior on the transmission. If I had a Frantz I would put it on something. I have toilet paper on every thing I have with a oil pump. Dont drive the Ford much any more. Daughter didnt mind seeing the f 350 diesel going. I think she has her eye on the 76 and bass boat. Dont let her fix me any drinks.
My 41 Dodge had a factory installed bypass filter. They used cotton as a refill element. JOhn Frantz came out with an adapter that allowed you to use the more effective roll of toilet paper. Toilet paper was about 10 cents then. Luberfiner used cotton and later chopped up newspaper and wood chips. There were no full flow filters up until the 50s. My Rambler flat head had a spin on bypass filter bolted to the head the same as a flat head Ford. As a rule of thumb none of the pleated filters clean oil you need depth. Auto makers knew that engines needed both a faster filter and a depth filter to clean oil. Bypass filters were expensive and were sacrificed to concentrate on the large engine damaging abrasives and depend on oil drains to eliminate the smaller engine wearing abrasives. Correction. The flat head Ford had a cartridge filter. Good elements were being eliminated by the time my 64 Rambler was made. Less effective pleated paper had pretty much replaced cotton. I always thought the Fram filter was factory installed on the old 41 Dodge. It was 15 years old when I bought it. I'm told it could have been dealer installed. Also auto parts stores sold them They used cotton. When we no longer could get good elements for the cannister filters at the gas station you could get good elements at Grand Auto parts in San Jose california. And the Fram housings. They also sold the Motor Guard toilet paper filters which were the best at the time Early 60s. Sometimes on sale at about 12 bucks.
Before the pandemic "let's use toilet paper for a filter" During the pandemic "I can't find toilet paper for my engine" After the pandemic let's use toilet paper for a filter
Righty tighty, Lefty loosie! The carbon black is way to small to be removed.... I used synthetic 10-40 Diesel oil, I pushed a fleet of water trucks and had a large supply of oil and diesel, so I CHANGED the oil every 1000 miles, Never had a problem with the engine, but transmissions were a different story.... I could run from your neck of the woods to Lake Powell and back on a single tank of fuel, very nice. I built filtration equipment used in the oil industry, I had filters that went down to 1 micron "absolute" and they still wouldn't remove the carbon black from the oil.... cheapest insurance in the world, oil changes....
Deserthunter Mike Yep whole vehicle has to make it to a given milage not just the engine. Right there is the folly of low mile oil change intervals. Sadly it's the cooling system that lays most engines to rest now. But we never talk about 3000 mile coolant flushes do we?
I haven't heard of a cooling system failure in a modern car since most manufacturers switched to aluminum engine blocks, which don't rust and therefore don't leave piles of rust-flakes in the low spots of the coolant system.
Shawn Elliott Search your local Craig's list for PT cruisers. Sort by price low to high. The really cheap ones will have blown head gaskets or warped heads. These issues arise from cooling system neglect. The 2.4 in every PT is all aluminum, block and head. Dex cool is another nightmare. Look that up, mind blowing.
Shawn Elliott From what I read it's due to air contact. More of a mud that develops. Blew my mind. I'd never imagined the kind of build up it causes. I figured stop leak when I first saw it, but they swore they didn't use any.Seeing and reading more online just wow. On the up side for systems designed to run it HOAT is unbelievably good. I just dropped 9 year old coolant from an iorn block. 94k on the truck and original coolant. The stuff is still clear, clean and red. I've never seen anything but brown on an iron engine. I'm sold on HOAT, and the Mopars that run it. Overall I'm on the side of ground up maintenace, 7500 mile intervals. Changing part of the coolant(what drops from the pepcock) and an oil change is only part of it.
These type filters have been around for over 50 years. I used on many many moons ago and it cost me an engine. They are not a good choice. The stand filter is 1000 times better. Toilet paper today is much finer than it was years ago and so be careful. Sometimes what looks like a good deal and a money saver.....really become a heartbreak. I was in the engine business for over forty years and never ever saw a happy Custer of these. I thought they were long gone. Good luck.
The manufacturer would beg to differ. I'm sure they would rather I use their filter over the scott 1000 ply but the results are in the testing. The testing shows that it removes the oil of the carbon and soot on a level few other filters can get to which increases the longterm potential of the engine. The mistakes that get made with these filters is when the wrong toilet paper is used and ends up in oil pump and bearings.
Texas Jerry never ceases to amaze me. A guy in his 50s shows up with "40 years of experience" and knows better then any manufacturer. Better then the filter manufacturer, better then the oil manufacturer, and certainly better then any engine or vehicle manufacturer. I see this in the comments of every oil change and most vehicle maintenace videos.
Sorry to disappoint you, but I'm not in my 50's I'm 70 and I had over forty years in the automotive mfg business in the engine division of a auto mfg. if these filters which have been around for decades are successful, they do however, aren't nearly as safe or as effective as those offered by you car or engine mfg. Most will void your warrant if used . This may have changed in recent years, but I'm not a gambling man. Did not want to ruffle feathers, just made an experienced opinion . Sorry if I distracted from your video or your desire to help educate.
Texas Jerry They all worked for the manufacturer or government too. The one that comes to mind most was "a major south west US rep" for gates telling us all how serpentine belts don't crack because in the early 90s the chemistry changed. My preach always is to follow what the manufacturer states in their manual and you'll be money ahead. I'm entertained by videos that tell people to do otherwise. And even more so by the sidebar conversations. Being of the manufacturer you understand that said manual is written assuming certain parameters one being expected service life. To go beyond this number one must do things that the manufacturer didn't specify. It interests me to see how exactly people are pushing something longer then it was made to go. That said I'm at odds with a more restrictive filter media.
I started using the Frantz in 1963. My Rambler came with a spin on bypass filter. Bolted to the head the same as a Ford flat head with steel oil lines.Of course the Ford used a cartrige filter and good elements were available.they used cotton Which were as good as toilet paper if it was packed tightly. A Fram element could turn the oil clear in a gasoline engine the same as a Frantz. Most people didn't change the element often enough. You didn't have a choice with the Rambler. Spin on filters were not available that cleaned oil. Pleated paper is useless at cleaning oil. I think sometime in the 60s pleated paper replaced the superior cotton elements. Frantz came out with an adapter that allowed you to use toilet paper in the old housings. Frantz came out with a copy of the old Fram housing that used of course toilet paper. Frantz came out with a 3 stacker. For diesels that took three rolls of course Toilet paper. Not good marketing They realized later they should have came out with. A more expensive element that could work as good as toilet paper that they could call something else. Motor Guard and Gulf Coast filters also learned that lesson a little late.
Don’t take any paper off roll, push hole end over knee, to make dimple one end of roll, put wire extraction tool in dimpled end of roll, that end into hole of can and push till it’s in ,and flat on roll other end. Completely in. That makes it easier to fit.
We were using the Franz bypass filter along with the full flow filter back in the mid 1960's. We would change the Frantz filter (toilet paper roll) every 1,000 miles, along with extended mile oil changes. We could see on top of the Frantz filter anything going on in the motor. One time were seeing bearing wear (fixed that). Another time we started seeing powdered iron (camshaft failing) (fixed that). Both motors came out for the fix. Started blocking the bypass in the filter housing for the full flow as even though we found wear on top of the bypass filter, still damage done to the bearings from the camshaft failure. Did this for decades on our street machines (not muscle cars). Frantz oil filters were around $30.00. Toilet paper??? Have the oil analyzed after using the two different filters to actually see which one really does the best. Reply
Before the 50s all filters were optional equipment. All filters were bypass filters. All bypass filters had an orifice to reduce the flow of oil thru the element. The best elements used cotton. Later bypass filters for trucks such as Luber Finer used pulverized newspapers. The best available these days use toilet paper or paper towels. Pleated filters are only good for full flow filters. Full flow filters are for removing engine damaging abrasives and can't remove smaller engine wearing abrasives.
I haven't used the Frantz elements for about 30 years. I am now using Wal mart Great Value 1000. I have modified my filters to use the shorter paper. The reason I use the filters is because they use toilet paper. If I could get the Frantz elements at Wal Mart I would try them. If you can keep your oil clean and dry acid isn't a problem. All of your diesel oils will neutralize acid. 30 years ago all the Frantz elements were was high quality toilet paper with a thicker core. Motor Guard is the same way. Toilet paper was the best thing since since sliced bread until they came out with their own elements. John Frantz had a hell of a good idea. The best oil filter available for about 10 cents in 53. Probably not the best marketing choice.
One of.the first bypass filters I used was a Fram with a Cotton.element. I removed the cotton from the element and converted it to toilet paper. It filtered like the Fram element.From the outside to the center. Had to punch the core full of holes. Used a piece of under sink drain pipe drilled full of holes. Trying to avoid paying the obscene price of 29.95 for a new Frantz.
It has happened many times. You sell someone a toilet paper filter.you don't know it but the guy hasn't changed his oil in a long time. His engine is loaded with sludge. 50 miles or so the. Frantz can't hold any more sludge.you have told him to change the filter every 2000 miles and add a new quart of oil. When the rods start knocking the guy goes to a mechanic.The mechanic sees the Frantz and tells him his engine is full of toilet paper. If the Frantz.wasn't there he would be told the engine is full of sludge I towed in a Toyota. A piston was hitting the head. I removed the pan. It had a inch or so of something that looked like black sand. The oil looked like gear oil The toilet paper was a piece of carbon shaped like toilet paper. Part of the full flow filter paper was missing. It had been over 3 years since the filters or oil had been changed. I am the one that sold him the filter. He was nice about it. Said he had been too busy to take care of the car. It was a Motor Guard.
My bypass filter is a centrifuge, and it cleans the oil down to 1 micron or less. No filter in it, just requires cleaning out the built-up sludge now and then and far easier to clean.
I used a Stilko toilet paper oil filter on my 68 Ford 289 Torino GT. You just replace the regular oil filter and screw in the Stilko oil filter and add oil to replace oil absorbed by the toilet paper. The oil filter has fins around It to help cool the oil. Never lost a drop of oil. The oil is always clean. No tools needed.
It was a little risky using a Stilko. They converted the full flow system to a bypass system. Anything big might go right into the bearings. You had to have a wrench to change the under sized roll of toilet paper. Not a good filter. They would clean oil because they used toilet paper. About a third of a roll. Trasco is another one.
They. Will get the job.done. I wouldn't want one.you have converted the full flow filter system.to a bypass system The element is too small. I have one of them that I bought over 50 years ago.
I can imagine John Frantz thinking people will love my filters. For less than.10 cents it's the best filter element available. I was talking to an old timer with a 53 Chevy.He said he bought it new and installed a Frantz on it. He stopped and talked to me when I was selling the Frantz filters at a Flea market at least 30 years ago. Another guy showed me his two 3 stackers.He said he goes to Safeway and gets a 6 pack of Safeway Truly Fine. The NASA engineer said these toilet paper filters are only good for industrial use. The average car owner doesn't keep a car long long enough. I think he is right. Engines don't generate contamination like they used to. There are exceptions. Sorry I'm on the rampage.might be too much coffee.
I have a 2002 Elantra with almost 200,000 miles on it. It stop running last week and when I took it apart I was shocked when how much scoring there was and how much where there was inside this engine shocked because ever since brand new I've only used synthetic oil and a good quality synthetic filter. A friend of mine had a car with a secondary bypass filter it was a very large filter like you would find on a big rig and I don't have room for that type of filter in this car. I am disabled so I cannot work and this car needs to last me at least another 60 to 70 thousand miles don't have the money to replace an engine in this car a bypass filter is definitely what I need. Thank you for making this video I have seen the Frantz filter before, but I thought it was just one of those gimmicks. The question is how much do these things cost. Oh, and thank you for making such a comprehensive video.
I had a 2003 accent I bought with about 160 K. It was a piece of crap. I'm told the newer ones are better. The engine held up but the tyranny didn't. I think I would stick with a Toyota. These bypass filters aren't as impressive for modern cars.you can do fine changing the oil as recommended. These filters are a problem if you have to depend on others to service your car. I'm a fanatic do it yourselfer.
I know a guy with a nice looking Hyundai. Threw a rod at 70 K. Warranty covered it. He is wealthy. He went and bought a new Sports model Camry. He has a beautiful old Camry sitting there. Asked him if he would sell it. Said he is giving it to his daughter. Said her Camry has 500 K on it and is starting to give her problems. Said he would sell me the Hyumdai.
Toilet roll has to be 500 sheets of 2ply you may need to remove a few sheets.Best thing to do before fitting the roll is to put the roll on your knee & pull the roll down to make a small cone shape then insert the pointie bit in last & get a small tin ect same size or so as the roll holder & push roll in but not hard up the top canister.Mount canister to base & a firm hit with your hand then tighten clamp.
OK, the oil in the filter was "black". What does the oil look like in the rest of the engine? *My mechanic runs synthetic and changes at 7.000 miles said his car has 300,000 miles on it.
When I found out about the Frantz I had a nearly new Rambler American. The flat head 6 came with a bypass filter. The oil would get. Black in a few days. I changed the oil often. I was getting Delo 100 for 29 cents.An old foogy came into the station. When I checked his oil I made the remark I see you just changed your oil. He pointed to his Frantz and said son if.you had one of these filters you wouldn't need to change your oil and your engine won't wear out..I knew he was an engineer at Standard oil. We knew our customers in those days. The oil never got black again.In the old carburetor days the oil got black in a hurry. I thought every one will want one of these.I signed up as a dealer got a Frantz demo and some carbon black.I went to the big berryessa Flea market in San Jose..Ca. About the first guy stopped and explained to me how oil is supposed to get dirty it means it's doing its job. I never heard so much bull shot in my young life. Its not complicated. The full flow filter removes the engine damaging abrasives. To remove the smaller engine wearing abrasives You change the oil or add a depth filter.at normal oil temperature The water and fuel is removed. You don't get acid without water. If you are getting coolant in your oil fix the leak.Diesel engines generate a lot of soot.You will need to change the filter more often.. Some soot particles will get thru even toilet paper.It is not abrasive but will turn the oil black. Black is not an abrasive.Rub some in the palm. If it's clean it will wipe off clean.
The Frantz was the worse designed filter of the bunch. This demonstration makes them look even worse. All I have now is Gulf Coast juniors Motor Guards a Australian Jackmaster Classic and a flat head Ford V8 canister filter converted to take a 4 1/2 inch roll or Scott 1000 sheet. My old 6.9 had the Gulf Coast junior bolted to the fan shroud as high as possible. Returned the oil to the oil fill neck with a self tapping hollow bolt. The excess oil drained over night.. Used the Frantz for about 20 years before the better designed top loaders came out. When the oil in my Rambler American went from black and dirty to amber colored I didnt nit pick the lousy design. In 1963 Delo was 29 cents in the discount stores.
the trouble with switching from conventional to synthetic is it cleans out your engine and sometimes it works too well and the gaskets and seals will leak. the bypass it's self has a small orafice on the outflow side where the oil is clean, these engines normally have a 2500 mile oil change interval so any bit of filtration helps.
I recently went to synthetic from conventional in the 93 Legacy with 225.000 miles on it.. seems ok at 240.000 miles. Probably wasnt necessary. Its just a backup car now.
One pproblem we had back in the 60s was we had a lot of Sludged up engines that had been badly neglected. They might have 2 quarts of motor oil and 5 quarts of sludge counting what was in the valley and the valve covers. The little toilet paper filters could handle about 6 ounces which would sometimes take only a few miles to clog the filter. If the engine had a full flow filter It might have been clogged for a long time With the bypass valve open. It was too late for any bypass filter. The non stock filter will get the blame for the stupidity of the engine lower. We don't have that problem these days. I recently bought a 2006 Nissan Altima with 225 k on it. The valve guides were worn. When I pulled the cam cover it looked like a new engine. That would have been unheard of in the 60s.piece of cake for a toilet paper filter for this car.
I noticed a number on contrarian posts here. It's their loss. My neighbor used have one of these back in the early '70s. He showed me what the oil was like after 3,000 on his '65 Fairlane. In those days, EVERY car's oil was a mess by 3,000 miles. His on the other hand, looked like light amber honey, but with the appropriate viscosity. I always wanted to get one of these; I'll look to see if I have enough room, but they work great. The proof was in the pudding. A bit pricey at $274 for the Universal Kit, but doable. My only concern is with extending oil change intervals in cold weather, where more time is spent in a fuel rich condition and gas vapors precipitate onto the cylinder walls on down into the crankcase. The result would be fuel dilution, but that's the same issue with any vehicle in winter weather and has nothing to do with the oil filter.
You said it like it is. In cold weather short trips sometimes the Frantz can't keep up with the sludge. With me it was a piece of cake. In North Idaho I was driving 70 miles a day. When I found out about the Frantz I was working in a full service Standard Station. The dip stick told the story. With these modern cars the Oil can be dirty and still look decent on the dipstick Because there is little soot in the oil. What the Frantz can't remove is just a color. Probably a gasoline engine with an upright Frantz would be better for demonstrations. People judge the oil by its color.I tried some black Arco graphite oil once with a Motor Guard. It didn't stay black long.
We have to depend on heat and the crankcase ventilation to get rid of the fuel and water. Not enough engine heat for long enough and you have a problem. Of course diesel needs even more heat. A Frantz can remove about 6 oz of water.That's nothing compared to how much the engine produces.
My first Frantz cost me 29.95 when I signed up as a dealer it was 19.95. Installation was 6.00. Usually plenty of room except something like a Lincoln.
So Heath, are you still running a Frantz bypass system on the newer trucks you have now? I can't say that I remember seeing one on that new Ford project you have going. I was just curious because I am finally going to break down and buy a kit but then I started second guessing myself.
They are all a little different. On my 6.9 diesel Ford I bolted the filter to the plastic fan shroud on the driver side. After it sits over night the housing is drained. No spillage. I returned the oil to the fill neck lower than the filter. The filter wont drain unless air can enter the housing. Gasoline engines are the same as diesel engines in that a very small amount of soot is non abrasive and too small to be filtered out. My oil is clear on my gasoline engines on the dipstick The difference is on a diesel the non abrasive soot is a lot more. The black oil in a diesel will be as clean as the oil in a gasoline engine if the filter is changed often enough. Black doesnt mean dirty. On my diesels I like for the oil to be a shiny black like it has ink in it. Not grey black.
Bypass filters are common on the big rigs since they hold 50 quarts changes are costly. Besides these and other brands filter down to 1 or 2 microns. The big ones are OPS brand and Amsoil makes one also. Oil doesn't wear out it just gets contaminated from soot and other particles going by the rings. Soot in the oil can breakdown the zinc dithiophosphate which is an oil additive that comes in the oil for extreme pressure like camshafts (developed in the 40s). Oil also has what is know as TBN or total base number, base is used up neutralizing acids in the oil. When the test samples shows the base is getting low the more can be added. So bottom line these types of filters do work and get the oil cleaner than the full flow factory filter can. Not snake oil boys.
To reduce the amount of soot in the oil we reduced the flow thru the filter. I believe Frantz had a smaller orifice for that purpose. My cars have a .025 orifice that I make Out of a wire welder tip. When I was selling Gulf Coast Filters a customer drilled out the orifice so that the filter could filter faster. Bad mistake.
When I say modern cars have almost no large abrasives and lots of smaller engine wearing abrasives it is true but don't compare to the old cars. You could pull a roll of toilet paper out of a Frantz. Squeeze the top and nasty sludge would come out. Squeeze the bottom and beautiful golden oil would come out. You knew the Frantz was doing its job. With these newer gasoline powered engines its hard to tell the difference.
No one has ever came up with. a better filter than a firm roll of toilet paper. The problem with toilet paper is the name and it doesn't cost enough. Another problem is when Frantz came out toilet paper was pretty much a standard size.Frantz called for 2 ply facial quality which was easy to find. I just found a roll of 50 year old Scott that my wife had stashed.NASA had a problem with the purchasing department.They ordered Gulf Coast Filters to put a sock around the paper towels and toilet paper and call them fiilter elements.
A buddy of mine had one of these on his 1970 Ford Pinto back in the early 70's. One thing I remember is that it filtered EVERYTHING out of that oil. He would run it 3-4000 miles and that oil would look as clean as the day he put it in. I guess a diesel is a bit too much for it.
Rub a little in the palm of your hand. If the oil fills up the crevices in your palm and won't wipe off you aren't changing the filter often enough. The black is only a color such as ink.
Back before fuel injection engines generated a lot of soot. The oil turned black in a short time. Install a Frantz or a Motor Guard and the oil looked new again. The housings were no big deal. It was the 2 ply facial quality toilet paper inside that did it.We changed the filter more often and added more.new oil in those days. Not like my Altima that gets a new roll every 6 k and a quart of synthetic. Not like a diesel that generate a lot of soot and some soot particles too small to filter out. That are only a color like ink. There is dirty black oil and there is clean black oil.
In 1970 I was working for Ford. My boss had a Mustang dragster with a Chevy racing engine compliments of Chevrolet. Valvoline furnished the oil. Baldwin furnished the filters. I put a Frantz on the tow truck. Later I put a Motor Guard on his Plymouth Fury. When I heard something stupid like that paper will get in the oil or other stupid remarks I would say I put put filters on Joe Davis's vehicles. The filters were easier to sell after that. I lost track when I left California.When I left the tow truck had over 350 k on it. Almost all of it with no oil drains using Chevron Delo 100 20 wt. He changed the Frantz about every 2000 miles. 63 Chevy Suburban with the big 6 292 I believe. One of his sponsors was a chrome outfit. His dip stick was chromed. Made the oil look even better.
The way diesel owners mess up is they dont change the filter often enough. The more soot goes in the oil the more often you change the filter. My old 6.9 Ford diesel got a toilet paper change and a new quart of oil about every 1500 or 2000 miles.The oil was black but it was clean.i can spot dirty oil from across the room gasoline or Diesel. Some diesel.pickup owners are installing the big paper towel filters. I did a Fleet of them. All Powerstrokes and one Dodge Cummins. NASA saw my posts and started using them. He said they are for.industrial use only. The average person doesnt keep a vehicle long enough for.it to pay. I think he is right in many cases.They use the Gulf Coast. I dont do them any more. The big 80 got me.
With the Frantz demonstration unit you would put enough carbon black in the container to turn it black.You would turn on the pump and circulate the oil thru a pleated paper filter. Any brand of spin.on would do.The oil lines were clear plastic. The oil would go in black and come out black. Of course when you switched to the Frantz The oil came out clear.Of course even though you couldn't see it a very small. amount was so small it found its way thru the paper.It was only a color and not an abrasive I probably change my toilet paper more often than most.On a diesel engine I want the oil to be a shiny black such as black shoe polish. It is easy to spot dirty diesel truck oil. I know what the lab will say. The oil is analytically clean. After 50 years you know when the oil is dirty.
I admit I'm very curious about one of these, but the fact of the matter is a well-maintained engine won't contaminate the oil with enough particulates to matter before the oil loses its film strength and needs to be flushed anyway.
The problem is people make a lot of assumptions . They think they know more than people that have used them for.50 years. Was working in a full service Standard station in California in 1963. The Frantz came from Modesto ca. It was sir I see you just changed your oil. It was like yes 100,000 miles ago. That's how I got hooked. The grocery stores were full of high quality toilet paper. Now you have to be a highly skilled toilet paper squeezer or buy the Frantz elements.or just buy Scott 1000. I have been using some Great Value 1000. TP sometimes changes.on my old Motor Guards I put a spacer in to compensate for the shorter rolls. Probably not necessary..the new model Frantz is designed.for TP. It looks like to me. It looks more user friendly when using Scott 1000.
The challenge when the Frantz first came out was removing the large abrasives before they could destroy the engine. Oil filters were optional equipment in most cases. They were all bypass filters that hooked up the same as the Frantz. There are almost no large abrasives in a modern engine. Lots of small engine wearing abrasives. Sludge was a big problem in those days. Crankcase ventilation was a road draft tube that put the blow by under the car then to the atmosphere so that every one could breath it. When California decided to outlaw the road draft tube in favor of the PCV valve the old cars had trouble. Now the blow by is fouling the valves piston rings ECT. A porely maintained engine would be more than a filter could handle. Not so much of a problem these days. We still hope when we install a filter that cleans oil The engine is either new or has been properly maintained.
Toilet paper can remove carbon black enough to make it look nice.That's how the filters were demonstrated. There will be a very small amount that is non abrasive that will get thru. When demonstrating the filters You don't want to use the same oil until it gets dark. I sometimes used diesel fuel. I think some people used cooking oil. Less messy to deal with. The same thing is happening in a diesel. You are just dealing with a lot more soot.At one time Frantz sold filters to restaurants to filter cooking oil. They could use the oil longer. The military has paper towel filters on parts cleaners. Saves a lot of money.
Gotta laugh at all these guys who obviously don't know the purpose or workings of a bypass filter like this. Or the ones who still swear by the old 3000 mile oil change fallacy. Oil analysis doesn't lie. But hey, if you enjoy wasting money and time changing your oil all the time, be my guest.
bigchevy80 I just bought a 1946 Chevy truck with a Frantz sky filtering. I noticed there was no oil filter. I can’t a filter for it. I’m using synthetic Mobil 1 oil. Can anyone help me?
I bought a truck with a Frantz sky (whatever that means)? It didn’t have a oil filter in it! Can anyone tell me the part number for it, I’m using synthetic oil in the 235 cid. Thanks
Fallacy? I've never seen an engine destroyed by changing the oil too often, but I've seen alot of them destroyed by not changing the oil enough. It all depends on how long you want the engine to run before it wears out.
I have no idea why people can believe that allowing the oil to get dirty wear and foul the engine then draining it is better than never letting it get dirty. Actually I know. Clean oil doesn't generate profits.
It is true the Frantz elements are better. I have used toilet paper for over 50 years. The Great Value 1000. In the 16 pack costs me less than 60 cents and it is just fine.
Frantz.might be the only toilet paper filter left. I like the new model they call a refiner. There is a guy with red gloves on UA-cam that shows the correct way to service the new model. You put the TP on the base then push the housing down over the full roll of Scott 1000 or other paper the same size. Saw one guy remove paper and do it the same way as the old model. Dont know the price. When it's something that will last a lifetime what's a few dollars.
good video, but i've been thinking. Doesn't a regular oil filter have a by-pass , should the filter clog. If not the engine will starve of oil. So by filtering down to a few microns, i would be afraid of oil starvation and the results. Not sure really.
The bypass oil filter takes pressurized oil and runs it through the medium; filter, toilet paper, AND then an orifice before returning the oil to the fill tube in this case. Without the orifice it would drop oil pressure from the system; perhaps excessively. If the bypass filter or orifice becomes plugged, it defaults to stock.
When it can't hold any more sludge oil will stop going thru it. Then it is the same as before you installed it. The oil just starts getting dirty. Before the 60s there were no full flow filters. Cars came with either no filter or a bypass filter. Sometimes filters were optional equipment.
With the conventional way of installing a bypass filter the clean oil is continuously going into the oil pan until lt is all clean.The oil isn't supplying any parts.It is supplying the oil pan with clean oil. A Perma Cool universal sandwich adapter doesn't supply. the. oil pan it directs the oil to the full flow filter. It is actually an oil cooler adapter but works the same for. the bypass filter .No orifice is needed.with that system.
His Frantz hooks up the same.as the factory installed bypass filters on my 41 Dodge or the 55 Studebaker. If the filter is neglected and clogs up clean oil stops going to the oil pan. The Gulf Coast junior on my 6.9 Ford diesel hooked up exactly the same as the 55 Studebaker V8 . Clean oil went into the oil fill neck. Had the factory installed bypass filter. No full flow filters on those cars. My oil is.probably cleaner than his because I change my TP more.often than he does. Some bolt a big Gulf Coast on the frame. That's for people that drive a lot of miles. Did that on a Dodge Cummins. Had to cut a 1/4 inch plate so I could fasten both brackets . Bolt pattern wider than the frame.
At one time Frantz sold ATF adapters. Don't know if they have them now. I make my own. It is two tees with a 1/8" orifice in between them. The fluid hits the orifice and some of it goes to the Frantz. The clean fluid goes to the lower pressure side of the orifice. I think Frantz used a smaller size orifice. Gulf Coast used 1/8" Of course you need to know which way the fluid is flowing.
After reading all these comments and everyone stating their 2 cents... From what I can surmise is, it's just safer and better to just change your oil like you're suppose to and then every 100,000 miles do an oil flush with additives I've seen on other videos. Like using Totally Awesome. Other than that, no matter what, I agree with some of the posts here, it's better to follow the manufacturer's suggested maintenance routines. Lastly, I have never understood why anyone keeps a car for more than 15-20 years? Unless the car is a specialty (i,e, hot rod, luxury sports car, high-end luxury car or something custom) it makes no sense to me why keep a car longer when all the parts and debris start braking down and then the car becomes a REALLY BIG MONEY PIT! And I know most people, who read this, will say it's because most people can't afford a new car or don't want car payments. But what I say to that is... you HAD 20 YEARS to save up to buy the new car! If you can not save $1000 PER YEAR, which is only $84 PER MONTH, which is only $21 PER WEEK,, then something is wrong with you.
Bernie Cruz because not everyone needs to have new things to make themselves feel good. I drive a 21 year old car that runs just as good as the day it was new. There's nothing wrong with it, so there's no point in replacing it. Anything that breaks on it can be fixed easily. But then again, cars from 20 years ago were built way better than the crap they have today.
Buying a new car is not only about to make oneself feel good. But to have a more reliable vehicle where one doesn't have to keep pouring money into the car that's over 20 years old. Yes, i can understand, your car is running fine for it's age, but I bet if you added up every single penny you spent on that car excluding regular maintenance (i.e. oil changes, tire and brake replacements, radiator flushes, brake and transmission flushes, etc...) you would realize that you're "perfectly running" vehicle is only running "perfectly" because of the amount of money you put into it to keep it running that way. And also, if you've been the type who works on the vehicle yourself, then you would need to factor your time into the cost factor as well, to come up with the accurate cost invested into keeping the, over 20 years old, vehicle. And to do that, you'd use the factors of how much you personally earn on an hourly bases at your "normal" or full-time job. (i.e. spent 5 hrs fixing a problem on your car in one day X $30/hr = $150 on labor cost) So, add all that up and you'll find that keeping a car for such a long time, which has outdated technology in it along with old concepts and lower performance features compared to modern cars today... and you'll realize that keeping a car for such that long of a time-frame, makes no sense. Financially or sentimentally.
Bernie Cruz I can guarantee that any amount of work and money that I put into this car over the years is still way cheaper than paying $20,000-30,000 for a new one every few years. Those of us who can work on our own equipment know that just because something is newer does not necessarily make it better or more reliable. Any kind of so-called newer technology is also a moot point. The only technology needed is a car that runs good, is reliable and gets me where I need to go. All of which this one does very well, and without high payments and insurance. You go ahead and keep buying a new car every few years and keep wasting all that money on depreciation. People with your flawed mindset are what keeps people like me laughing all the way to the bank.
Actually Bigchevy80... my mindset is all about money being nothing but a tool. A tool that allows me to get done whatever I need to get done. And you actually contradicted yourself with the comment "keep wasting all that money on depreciation" because even though your car gets older and older, it still depreciates just like any other car and you're the one who's wasting money on parts that are failing left and right due to their age and wearing out. Eventually you'll spend money on replacing every single part the car came with including parts on the body. Which this means "your wasting money". I'd rather spend my money on something new, looks better, runs better, has warranty, has all my maintenances covered and even get a FREE RENTAL (which I save money on due to that I don't have to pay for on my insurance policy). So, you go ahead and keep dumping all your hard earned money (which you obviously work long and hard hours for) into a vehicle that will just keep eating up your money as time goes on. Meanwhile, I'll spend my valuable time, doing the least amount of work while making the maximum amount of money, to boot, and then spend my extra free time (not repairing my car) on things like vacations and other entertainments which I enjoy in life. Bottom line, is, I earn the amount of money where I've learned the fundamental lesson of finances and that is, MONEY IS NOTHING BUT A TOOL/RESOURCE TO USE TO GET THINGS DONE! You obviously have not learned this lesson in life. Most likely because those who have to work their asses off for pennies, tend to value money like it's the most valuable commodity in the world! Which it's not.
Bernie Cruz A car this old does not depreciate at the rate a new car does. I paid $4500 for that car over a decade ago, and I've spent less than half that amount on a decade's worth of maintenance. So yeah, less than $7000 for over a decades worth of use and 130,000 miles driven is a good deal in my book. Most people lose more than that in depreciation over the first year of owning a new car. That money saved goes towards being COMPLETELY debt free and having all the money I could ever need for all that other stuff you listed, like vacations, hobbies and other toys. It's not that money isn't a tool, it's that some people utilize their tools better than others. Most people I know that buy new cars every few years are in debt up to their eyeballs. When it comes down to it, I could care less what you do with your money. But telling someone that it doesn't make sense to keep a vehicle this long is your OPINION and nothing more.
Back in my Frantz days in the 60s some Ford's ran a little rich. It was harder to keep the oil clear like we wanted.. To reduce the amount size of the soot particle
I bought a synthetic element made to replace the TP roll, it felt hard like plastic. When I put it in the canister, I could not get the can to fit down on the base enough to install the clamp band. I pulled it up and the ring around the tube was digging into the element. Does this channeling ring need to be removed? After about a half hour of pushing on this canister, I did get the V clamp band started and continuing to push the filter down, the assembly was back together. I just bought this system about the time Frantz was acquired by the current company. I'm not happy that I may need to replace the filter assembly because the element does not fit or assemble like the Scotts 1000 roll previously used.. The positive thing is that fine grit can no longer be felt in the oil on the discharge side, TP did not stop all particles from passing through the roll confirmed by a particle count sampled on the return line.
I have a 30 year old Frantz element. It looks like a custom made roll of toilet paper with a thick core.The advantage is it fits. Other than that I don't see an advantage over Scott 1000. I use toilet paper filters because I like to use toilet paper.
Just wondering if you have done a particle count with the synthetic elements compared to tp. The synthetic and cellulose Frantz elements are 4 1/2 inches tall, their filters don't come with the ring anymore, it's not needed with their elements that they want you to use, I would keep the ring on hand when you want to use tp.
I hear a lot about the bypass filters voiding the warranty. This goes For any non stock item such as power chips exhaust brakes ECT . That's fair they are not responsible for anything non stock.There are a lot of Gulf Coast Filters on trucks now. One guy goes into a truck dealership.He said he needed for them to remove the Gulf Coast filter and put it on the new truck. He was told that will void the warranty. He said no problem I will buy another truck that won't void the warranty. The salesman said wait I will make a call. The salesman came back and said good news the warranty isn't voided. Don't remember the engine makes. It doesn' t matter Gulf Coast has letters from the engine makers stating the warranty isn't voided. On the other hand the government was told if they put Gulf Coast Filters on a large Mercedes diesel engine instead of Mercedes filters It would void the warranty. How much money would you be able to spend fighting Mercedes Benz.
Many years ago working in a machine shop it was believed that this old toilet paper filter method was the culprit to plugging up hydraulic lifters. Leading to bad things...
The filters have served me well fot.almost 60 years. Put one on a neglected engine with a quart or two of sludge and you have a problem. Not much of a problem with these modern fuel injected engines and synthetic oils.Years ago a guy asked me if a Frantz would help fix a noise in his engine. I asked him how long it had been since his last oil change.He said I dont know it's been a long time. I wouldnt go near that engine. In the old days when you overhauled an engine the hardest job was cleaning the engine. My old 76 F 250 had some oil leaks.in the 390.I decided to replace all the gaskets.The engine was pristine except some carbon on the pistons and valves No sludge anywhere. It uses Delo 400 15 40. The non synthetic oils are a lot better these days. The 390 has an old Motor Guard on it. Motor Guard was the only TP filter that was safe to use for compressed air. All they make now is compressed air filters. No I dont drain oil.
@@DakkarDragontis Snake oil even though Its proven that removing fine Micron particles form engine oil with a filter Improves engine longevity by up to 70% ......But im sure you're the master of oil analysis and knowledge on all that is worth knowing....
Most of the good paper in the 60s isn't so good now. Of course the Frantz elements are good. Haven't used the Frantz in 20 years or so. The Motor Guards and Gulf Coasts are more user friendly. Dont need sleeves and rings. They all clean oil. Motor Guard converted to compressed air. Dont know about the little Gulf.Coast filters. Gulf Coast mostly does heavy duty diesel filters. Been using Great Value 1000 from Walmart. Some use Scott 1000.
Just stumbled onto some Amsoil stuff. They have that sales pitch down. I tried Amsoil in a company pickup when they had Bobby Unser saying this oil change is forever. At about 60 K the oil was like road tar almost lost my job.I was using the Frantz.The Frantz was a better filter and the Amsoil filter.was.pretty good. The problem was I was using Amsoil recommendations. The filters now aren't as good as the original one. The sales pitch is really good.
Nice job. Never would have thought that was possible. But all's well and good until a global pandemic comes along and toilet paper becomes a rare commodity.
These big engines that have gone over a million miles without an oil drain haven't done it on the same oil.When they change the big roll paper towels. Normally 2 rolls on a truck they are adding about 2 gallons of new oil. An off shore rig it might be Many rolls. The Frantz is the same system but with only a qt added. The best element for the Luber Finer or Cummins Fleet Guard 750s uses pulverized newspapers and wood chips. Haven't seen the cotton elements for awhile.
People think the oil is dirty because it is black.There will be a small amount of soot that is non.abrasive and will find its way through even the Frantz. Elements. It is like ink. The same thing is happening in my gasoline cars but the amount of soot is so low it is hardly noticeable. I notice the oil looks like dark honey in the Pontiac Torrant and light honey in the Nissan.Altima.This suggests to me that the Altima is generating less soot. I have toilet paper filters on propane lift trucks The oil looks the same as new. Some say heat turns the oil dark.as far as I can see with the oils I use only soot will turn the oil dark. When I started using the Frantz Frantz would tell you which oil stayed golden When clean. At one time.Frantz had their own oil. Of course it was golden When clean. Diesel pickups weren't common then.
When using this filter my understanding is you still have your normal oil filter. Is this right and does this filter system have its own pump? I'm just wondering why people are saying this is bad to use?
People don't like what they arent familiar with. I've used them for years. The engine oil pressure is used to push the oil through. You use this along with your standard oil filter.
Red Poppy Ranch to me it seems like a great idea.less stuff going into one oil filter seems that you would be giving your normal oil filter longer life keeping normal flow. You can get 12 rolls of Scott for around $8. Id change that filter every 1000 to 1500 miles then normal filter every 5000 miles.Seem like a great simple Idea. I would like it better if it had it's own oil pump. I really think thats it only down fall. I may look into modifying one with a separate pump.
It is very rare but I have seen engines so worn out that the oil pressure light would come on at idle. You wouldn't put a bypass filter on that. At one time all filters were bypass types. Even the Rolls Royce . They all had a orifice so that the oil pump could supply the engine and the bypass filter. The Frantz will keep the full flow filter clean and free of acid. Once a.year would be excessive. I did fine in northern Idaho but I was driving 70 miles a day. Short trips in cold weather requires more attention to the filters because of condensation causing sludge. Filters that clean oil need more attention.Especially in cold weather.
My 19 horse power lawn mower has a toilet paper filter and a full flow filter.the stock oil pump can easily supply both filters. Briggs and Stratton. The same for my lawn tractor with the Kohler v twin.
At one time all filters were bypass types. They were optional equipment. They all had an orifice the same as a Frantz. There were no full flow filters. There were engines at one time that didn't need a filter. You put oil in a tank the oil lubricated the engine and dripped on the dirt road.
When I found out about the Frantz I also put one on my uncle's 59 Ford. That was a mistake.I was changing the Frantz every 50 miles. To make matters worse he had removed the thermostat. In those days if you bought a used car you might need to open up the top and wash the sludge down into the oil pan. Then remove the oil pan and clean it before installing the Frantz. If you are smart you don't install a Frantz on a relatives car unless you plan on taking care of it.
About 40 years ago I installed a Frantz on.my Peugeot diesel. I returned the clean oil to the valve cover on the wrong side of the baffle. With my wife driving headed to town. Started down a long hill.my wife.said it won't slow down. The engine was running on Mobil 1. We managed to get off the road. I stuffed a jacket in the air intake to kill it. One time I had to get my wife to Tulsa to the Airport. We got diesel at Sedan ks. Just north of Bartlesville ok the engine quit. The Frantz that I was using for a primary filter was full of Ice. We had gotten water in sedan. Trooper stopped and asked if we needed help. I said I need to get my wife to Tulsa airport. He said I will take her to Bartlesville. She .can take the Phillips 66 buss to the airport. A guy stopped and pulled me to a store. I replaced the frozen toilet paper.Poured in some HEET and headed home. It was a cold son of a bitch.
Ok i'll go with the low micron count filtration of the oil, but exactly what is filtering out the dust/lint from the toilet paper itself? My wife works for a company that makes paper product including TP and she said the only paper they make that shouldn't (note shouldn't, not definetly) leave it's own dust/lint would be coffee filter (on the low end) and science/lab wipes.
Don't know where you get your paper. I have about 3 brands in the house. None of them have loose paper dust on them. Some say yes but the paper isn't treated.It is when the hot oil hits it.
Actually any of these filters that use some type of tissue paper will get the job done as a truck driver I have seen many good ones cotton is very good i. f it is compressed enough some of the luberfiner types use cotton or recycled newspapers and wood chips A firm roll of toilet paper is a wonderful oil filter but watch out for the b's stories they come with toilet paper filters. Using the filters since 1963
Oil that never gets dirty will greatly extend engine life.clean oil doesn't allow sludge to build up in the engine. Using filters that don't clean oil then going back to have your dirty oil changed generates profits for the oil changers but does nothing for the car owner. One problem with the new cars is finding a place to mount them. On my Nissan Altima I have two filters between the grill and radiator. I remove the grill to change the Toilet paper. Its a hassle but I am a clean oil fanatic.
Was at Walmart the other day getting some synthetic oil. I believe they had 5 10 and 20 thousand mile oil. I got the 20 thousand mile oil. You dont even need a filter to go 20thousand miles Probably better to keep it clean.
Just bought a 16 pack of Great Value 1000 at Walmart. I didnt have to remove any rounds of paper. Looks like it is the same diameter as what we used in the 60s. The core is a little larger than 1 1/2." It was a perfect fit in the Motor Guards.The last Great Value 1000 sheet I bought at Walmart was the same diameter as what we used in the 60s. Didnt have to unroll any. The Scott 1000 or the Great Value 1000 dont channel.
Those were the good old days working in a full service gas station. You say sir that oil needs to be changed.You put the car on the rack and take out the drain plug. Nothing comes out. You push a screw driver in and a couple of quarts come come out. You pour in some kerosene and run it for awhile probably causing more trouble. That's what the boss said to do.
Probably helped it out. I have an old motorcycle I fixed up, ran like crap no matter how much I tried to tune it up, accidentally left it sitting for a week with the fuel valve on and it drained into the oil. Replaced the oil and it ran better than before.
I hear you. One of.my kohler.engines needed a new fuel pump.Instead of.getting a correct pump on.it I.put an electric pump on it. The float couldn't handle it.I got.a crankcase full of gasoline. One time in Idaho I was trying to start a International truck. I would.try the either and try to Start it. After a few attempts it.started.Ran a second then exploded. Too much either in the crankcase. It must have been 20 below.. what if I had been doing that with my wife turning the engine. She might have been a widow.
Was talking about a series 60 425 HP Detroit. Road King magazine asked for the owners phone number. They did an article on the big Gulf Coast 0 2 and Rotella. Also an article on Amsoil and a Como filter. Turns out the Gulf.Coast filter needs 3 gallons of make up oil when changed. When the full flow filters are also changed its 5.5 gallons. That's equal to a full oil change every 40 thousand miles. That's how they keep the additives up to specs. Same as a Frantz only bigger. When I retired it was approaching a million miles with almost no wear. It was torn down and measured by Shell oil engineers about every 250 k miles. The used oil poured back in. One engineer said it's not unusual for these engines to go 1 million miles but not be in near new condition. A NASA engineer saw my posts and started using them. He said toilet paper is better than paper towels. That is true but big filters are better than small filters.
Red Poppy Ranch I watched again and it sure doesn’t appear you wiped/cleaned it out. Maybe you edited that part out. Just thinking it would be a good idea to show that in case some people follow your video to the T.
I didn't wipe out the Frantz..Most of the contamination is in the paper. At a flea market I was challenged. A guy said I have something you can't filter out. He sold art supplies.he had some concentrated black coloring. I filtered it right out. I used it The rest of the day. When I changed the toilet paper the top half was black. The bottom half was white. I have used cement coloring stove black I have gone to art supply stores. One time I was showing how the filter worked compared to the full flow. I had gotten some black paint coloring from Kelly Moore in a liquid. When I started going thru the full flow filter the oil was coming out clear. That was embarrassing. The coloring wasn't compatible with the oil.It started bunching up and being filtered out. I unplugged the machine put it in the trunk.
Oh yes I forgot. The Frantz is up side down. May be a little sludge.Probably not. I always managed to put the Frantz upright on the diesels. Many years ago I saw the little Frantz on a over the road truck. It was upright. I said isn't the Frantz a little small. He said no I change it every day.
It may be better at filtering, however without changing the oil, your losing viscosity that isn't being replenished. Otherwise you will end up with oil that has a viscosity of water and your bearings will fail. If you have a tired out high mileage engine, its recommended to use a slightly thicker oil than the manufacturer advises. Cars 50 years ago were only meant to last 100k. Now we have vehicles going 300k. Please, please, please change your oil!
WatchMeWrench I love how there are more and more people pushing all these "snake oil" type products that usually have minimal results, all geared to separate your money from your wallet. Oh well, I see an engine replacement in his future. People follow manufacturers maintenance schedules. It's there for a reason.
Teen Mechanic Sorry, but no. Engine and lubricant technology has improved gradually over time, so engines run cooler and last longer. Cars made 30 years ago did not last 300k.
Charlie Smith these are the same manufacturers that engineer everything to fail nowdays so forgive me if I don't trust a damn word they say. With oil analysis, you can run 20,000 miles or more between changes.
Put a Frantz on my bosses 63 Chevy Suburban with the 292 big 6.He pulled a race car with it.That was about 64 . He complained his oil doesn't look as clear as mine.I called Frantz. I was using Chevron Delo 100. He was using Chevron Special. Frantz told me the special had a ashless additive that turned dark.Drain the Special and put in Delo 100. Against my advice he used 20 wt instead of 30 wt. At 350k the engine was still going strong.I used the adapter from Frantz that eliminated the full flow filter. Multi grade oils were no good in those days. The Delo 100 was never drained.
A few years ago someone saw my posts and asked for a propaganda package. It was a NASA engineer. Then he wanted me to come to Canaveral.I realized I was getting in over my head.I called Gulf Coast Filters and turned it over to them. Gulf Coast could put them in touch with their big customers such as the military Shell and Chevron. Not trying to cut in on Frantz. These.big companies use the big paper towel filters mostly. I don't sell any more. I have no knowledge on how to equip an off shore rig or the monster that moves a apace shuttle.I did learn some things such as new oil isn't always clean. Shell engineers were studying a Peter Bilt with no oil drains with Shell Rotella . someone forgot to tell the mechanic that changed the Bounty Big rolls.not to drain the oil. The Detroit was in near new condition.with one oil drain in near 1 million miles. Its not unusual for these engines to go a million miles bit not be in near new condition.
Am I the only one around here that is old enough to remember the. FAA and. PMA approved AeroFrantz. They used 2 ply facial quality bathroom tissue..There were no Frantz elements in those days. Saw some on crop dusters about 50 years ago. Saw oil analysis reports on Cessna 182 Skylane. Virtually the same as that filter but I think the clamp had a bolt in it No.all of aircraft didnt crash because the toilet paper clogged.up the engines .
Went down to Wal Mart today and bought a big package of Great Value 1000 sheet.I have 8 toilet paper filters. Been using the Scott 1000. I think the Great Value will do fine. The Angel Soft looked good. The Frantz elements are better but I am a tight wad.
In the old days many engines had so many large particles in the oil there would be danger of the orifice clogging if at the inlet. I like to put the orifice at the inlet. Haven't had a problem with moderns engines. I try to put the orifice at the source keeps the oil pressure out of the filter and hoses.
Cummins claimed an 80% increase in engine life using their big 750 oil filters. You dont see the Luberfine 750 or the Cummins 750 much any more. Some used cotton and some used pulverized newspapers. On over the road trucks some were chrome plated. Some had Peter Bilt on them. I worked for a company that had luberfiners on everything. People got ignorant and started thinking the filters were only for dirty conditions such as dump trucks. The last I bought were Cummins Fleetguard 750s that I got from a International dealer. The Gulf Coast filters have a better design. The dirty oil has to travel thru 22 inches on the double roll filter. They might still have the chrome models. The last information I read on the Cummins Fleet Guards is at least 30 years old.
There is a trucking company just down the road from me at Alvord Tx They don't drain oil in the big engines. They have engines that have over a million miles with no oil drains with the same engine parts. They change the big filters and add make up.oil. They spend money on an oil analysis program I don't spend money on oil analysis. My 40 year old.Ford isn't worth it. Google Gulf Coast Filters. The Ford 7.3 with the Frantz is the same system. Most. Of the owners with the little filters.don't change them often enough to keep the oil as clean as the truckers. Changing the filter every 5k might not be enough. It wouldn't be enough for my old 6.9.
If someone can look at pleated paper and a roll of toilet paper and can't understand which cleans oil and which filters fast probably shouldn't have one. It also takes some mechanical ability to install a bypass filter.
Transmissions run on friction. ATF can be loaded with contaminants. I thought I invented using toilet paper to clean ATF. On my Dynaflow Buick I tapped into the high accumulator .for pressure and returned the clean fluid to the oil pan. Found out later Frantz users had been doing it for years. Was at a oil change place waiting for a safety sticker. They were pushing transmission flushes. The best thing to flush a transmission with is clean ATF. Of course ATF always looks clean unless it has been overheated. Looks are deceiving.
I find it hard to believe that the toilet paper fibers aren't breaking off and going into your motor. Would be interesting to see if the main filters has cellulose fiber in it.
@@RedPoppyRanch the cellulose may not break down but if you take a roll of toilet paper and tap it on a glass table you will see fibers floating around. I can definitely see how the till can be a pretty good filter I'm just worried at the back end of the filter letting some fibers loose.
Dune Buggies and Hot VWs did a test on the Motor Guard oil filter in the 60s They put an inline pleated paper fuel filter in the return line to the engine.of course paper fibers can't get thru pleated paper.They cut open the fuel filter looking for paper fibers and found none. They did a nice article on them. They were popular on the Baja race cars.Dick Cepec tires sold them for off road use. They used 2 ply facial quality toilet paper. They only make compressed air filters now.
I have seen the pleated paper break down in a full flow filter. .It is rare but it is caused by neglect. When I change my toilet paper I can tear it off at each sheet paper gets very strong in oil.
I've used the toilet paper filters since 1963 starting with the Frantz. I have a habit of cutting open full flow filters checking to see what is in the pleats. Never saw any toilet paper fibers. If I had concern about toilet paper getting in the oil I would invest in a metal inline fuel filter toilet paper fibers cannot get thru a inline fuel filter The FAA and PMA approved AeroFrantz used 2 ply facial quality toilet paper.
Used these filters on diesel engines for over 30 years when I bought a diesel Peugeot. I want to see a shiny black. Not grey black. On a diesel engine I would use a less expensive proven oil like Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo. I would change the filter more often than a Frantz dealer would recommend. Black doesn't mean dirty. Black is beautiful. Put some on the palm. If soot fills up the crevices in the skin and won't wipe off its dirty. If you don't want to change the filter often buy a gasoline engine.
It is risky to tell someone they will never need to change the oil again. The engine might develop a anti freeze leak in the oil. When you are changing the filter and adding a qt of oil you are keeping the oil clean plus you are adding enough new oil to keep the additive package up. That's why I change the filter more often in a diesel engine. Also additives last a lot lomger in analytically clean oil. This isn't complicated.
I have a habit of saying no more oil changes. It is better to say no more oil drains. When I installed the Frantz on my nearly new 64 Rambler I didn't drain my oil again. I was changing the toilet paper and adding a quart of Chevron Delo every 2000 miles. It was a lot dirtier than my Altima which gets a new quart of oil every 6000 miles approx. The truckers that have the big 2 roll bounty big roll filters add about 2 gallons of new oil at filter change.
All of these filters including the big paper towel filters filter from top to bottom dont go thru the core. I have some very old Motor Guards that filtered from the bottom up.
One reason Frantz went belly up is we didn't have the internet. An example is I mostly sold them at flea.markets.You have to go thru a lot.of people to find one.that understands what the hell you are. Talking about. Motor.Guard gave up on oil filters and went to compressed air filters. There are people out there that understand what you are talking.about Frantz is reaching them now.
I have seen a couple of cars over the years that I couldn't find a place to mount one. My Altima has bypass filters for the ATF and Motor oil.To change them I have to remove the grill. I am a clean oil fanatic. I would put them on the top of the hood if I had to.on my 64 Rambler I had the Frantz on the fender with clear plastic oil lines. Was selling them.
@@ralphwood5114 The old Frantz 2 port sandwich adapters were handy on some cars. Didnt work so well on small engines. They depended on a pressure differential thru the adapter. For the lawn mowers I convert the 2 ports to a 1 port. The Frantz 2 ports are getting scarce.
A customer had a problem with a Frantz oil cleaner. He tried to change it with the engine running. The filter Hit the roof of his garage.He had oil all over the car and garage. He wasn't happy.
ralph wood unless there's an isolation valve why open it with the engine running? Never heard of anyone removing an oem oil filter with the engine on, it's the same here.
@@bigchevy80 - EXACTLY, although my guess is that fluid erosion might take its toll on the much finer toilet roll paper over time. The cheaper paper, SOME of it anyway, is thicker and tougher.
I'm not aware of any paper that dissolves in oil. You can take the used roll out and unroll it It will tear at each sheet. The element is removing the water and acid with it. You will know when you have left in too long. The paper won't be as strong. If you allow the element to reach its capacity the acid will start working on the pleated paper in the full flow filter. Some think they can wait until the element has reached its capacity. Not a good idea.
I have been known to use toilet paper on the coolant.some use toilet paper as a water filter before the expensive activated carbon.water filter on marine vessels. Some toilet paper holds up pretty good when sealed in a filter housing. In a engine the oil protects the paper.. if the paper gets soggy.or gets cracks in it you have water in the oil. Could be coolant or not running at normal operating temperature.
When Frantz went broke years ago a Frantz dealer improved on the filters. His design doesnt require a tight seal at the core. You push the roll down against a superior seal.I think the tube is 1 3/8. They are top loaders. The famous Frantz 3 stackers were replaced with paper towel filters. The toilet paper filters may not be in production now. That was the Gulf Coast juniors. Still a few Frantz 3 stackers on shrimp boats and such. They are all trying to get away from the words toilet paper filters. It's probably too late. Too many lies and bull shit stories come with toilet paper. Also most people think oil is supposed to get dirty and be drained.
Trying to reinvent the wheel, , no thanks. I dont need to save .05 and risk collapse of the toilet paper. How much does all that Frantz stuff cost PLUS the cost of their "superior" oil
You keep saying 1000 ply but I'm sure you mean sheets or something because like 2 ply is pretty normal I don't know that I have seen more than 4 ply and I'm not real sure I have seen that and are you supposed to leave the cardboard
Its Scott 1000 sheet 1ply. Thats what I have used. I was talking to one of my customers that has over 500 K on his Toyota Corolla wagon. 400 K WITH the Frantz. He told me on an outing the boy scouts got into his Frantz elements.
I remember my stepdad talking about this type of filter many years ago, but I was not sure I really believed it. I just happened to think of this today, did a search and came across your video.
U made me smile... u have a high level of problemsolving, build ur own house, fix stuff on ur car i didnt even know existed, yet a toiletpaper roll almost got u stuck ;). Keep on the good work, love ur movies!
I have used these filters for nearly 60 years now and they work really well. ALWAYS install as a BYPASS filter. They keep your engine clean . I mount upside down so changing is just releasing, removing, draining and CLEANING, and reinstalling. They CLAIM you don't have to change oil, just filter, but I never bought into that.
I bought into the no more oil drains when I installed the Frantz on my nearly new Rambler American.It has worked well for me. I probably change the filter and add more new oil that most. I always try to mount the filters upright in a place where they can drain at shut down. If air cant enter the filters they wont drain. I would do every 2 K miles on a Diesel.
Upside down is the only way to go!
Tests on the oil between changes read that the oil is CLEANER than when you bought it at the store.
Good job ~ used these since Frantz sold them, have them on almost everything, putting one on my Ford truck now ```
I started using the Frantz in 1963. Some of these old bastards have been using them longer than I have.
Was just down at Walmart. I picked up a 16 pack of Great Value 1000. I converted some M 30 Motor Guard compressed air filters to lube oil. This package was just the right size for the Motor Guard. Because the last sheet was glued it didnt pinch in the gasket. The Motor Guard liked to pinch that last sheet. The core was a little larger than the Frantz tube which is no problem if you know how to change the Frantz. With this paper you might not need to unroll paper with the Frantz. They keep messing with the size. I guess I will have to take a tape measure with me the next tjme.
My 76 F250 with the 390 has a Motor Guard on the oil and a Gulf Coast junior on the transmission. If I had a Frantz I would put it on something. I have toilet paper on every thing I have with a oil pump. Dont drive the Ford much any more. Daughter didnt mind seeing the f 350 diesel going. I think she has her eye on the 76 and bass boat. Dont let her fix me any drinks.
My 41 Dodge had a factory installed bypass filter. They used cotton as a refill element. JOhn Frantz came out with an adapter that allowed you to use the more effective roll of toilet paper. Toilet paper was about 10 cents then. Luberfiner used cotton and later chopped up newspaper and wood chips. There were no full flow filters up until the 50s. My Rambler flat head had a spin on bypass filter bolted to the head the same as a flat head Ford. As a rule of thumb none of the pleated filters clean oil you need depth. Auto makers knew that engines needed both a faster filter and a depth filter to clean oil. Bypass filters were expensive and were sacrificed to concentrate on the large engine damaging abrasives and depend on oil drains to eliminate the smaller engine wearing abrasives. Correction. The flat head Ford had a cartridge filter. Good elements were being eliminated by the time my 64 Rambler was made. Less effective pleated paper had pretty much replaced cotton. I always thought the Fram filter was factory installed on the old 41 Dodge. It was 15 years old when I bought it. I'm told it could have been dealer installed. Also auto parts stores sold them
They used cotton. When we no longer could get good elements for the cannister filters at the gas station you could get good elements at Grand Auto parts in San Jose california. And the Fram housings. They also sold the Motor Guard toilet paper filters which were the best at the time Early 60s. Sometimes on sale at about 12 bucks.
Before the pandemic "let's use toilet paper for a filter"
During the pandemic "I can't find toilet paper for my engine"
After the pandemic let's use toilet paper for a filter
Righty tighty, Lefty loosie! The carbon black is way to small to be removed.... I used synthetic 10-40 Diesel oil, I pushed a fleet of water trucks and had a large supply of oil and diesel, so I CHANGED the oil every 1000 miles, Never had a problem with the engine, but transmissions were a different story.... I could run from your neck of the woods to Lake Powell and back on a single tank of fuel, very nice.
I built filtration equipment used in the oil industry, I had filters that went down to 1 micron "absolute" and they still wouldn't remove the carbon black from the oil.... cheapest insurance in the world, oil changes....
Deserthunter Mike Yep whole vehicle has to make it to a given milage not just the engine. Right there is the folly of low mile oil change intervals. Sadly it's the cooling system that lays most engines to rest now. But we never talk about 3000 mile coolant flushes do we?
I haven't heard of a cooling system failure in a modern car since most manufacturers switched to aluminum engine blocks, which don't rust and therefore don't leave piles of rust-flakes in the low spots of the coolant system.
Shawn Elliott Search your local Craig's list for PT cruisers. Sort by price low to high. The really cheap ones will have blown head gaskets or warped heads. These issues arise from cooling system neglect. The 2.4 in every PT is all aluminum, block and head. Dex cool is another nightmare. Look that up, mind blowing.
Hm. Does that specific coolant have trouble with gelling over time, or something like that?
Shawn Elliott From what I read it's due to air contact. More of a mud that develops. Blew my mind. I'd never imagined the kind of build up it causes. I figured stop leak when I first saw it, but they swore they didn't use any.Seeing and reading more online just wow. On the up side for systems designed to run it HOAT is unbelievably good. I just dropped 9 year old coolant from an iorn block. 94k on the truck and original coolant. The stuff is still clear, clean and red. I've never seen anything but brown on an iron engine. I'm sold on HOAT, and the Mopars that run it. Overall I'm on the side of ground up maintenace, 7500 mile intervals. Changing part of the coolant(what drops from the pepcock) and an oil change is only part of it.
These type filters have been around for over 50 years. I used on many many moons ago and it cost me an engine. They are not a good choice. The stand filter is 1000 times better. Toilet paper today is much finer than it was years ago and so be careful. Sometimes what looks like a good deal and a money saver.....really become a heartbreak. I was in the engine business for over forty years and never ever saw a happy Custer of these. I thought they were long gone. Good luck.
The manufacturer would beg to differ. I'm sure they would rather I use their filter over the scott 1000 ply but the results are in the testing. The testing shows that it removes the oil of the carbon and soot on a level few other filters can get to which increases the longterm potential of the engine. The mistakes that get made with these filters is when the wrong toilet paper is used and ends up in oil pump and bearings.
Texas Jerry never ceases to amaze me. A guy in his 50s shows up with "40 years of experience" and knows better then any manufacturer. Better then the filter manufacturer, better then the oil manufacturer, and certainly better then any engine or vehicle manufacturer. I see this in the comments of every oil change and most vehicle maintenace videos.
Sorry to disappoint you, but I'm not in my 50's I'm 70 and I had over forty years in the automotive mfg business in the engine division of a auto mfg. if these filters which have been around for decades are successful, they do however, aren't nearly as safe or as effective as those offered by you car or engine mfg. Most will void your warrant if used . This may have changed in recent years, but I'm not a gambling man. Did not want to ruffle feathers, just made an experienced opinion . Sorry if I distracted from your video or your desire to help educate.
Texas Jerry They all worked for the manufacturer or government too. The one that comes to mind most was "a major south west US rep" for gates telling us all how serpentine belts don't crack because in the early 90s the chemistry changed. My preach always is to follow what the manufacturer states in their manual and you'll be money ahead. I'm entertained by videos that tell people to do otherwise. And even more so by the sidebar conversations. Being of the manufacturer you understand that said manual is written assuming certain parameters one being expected service life. To go beyond this number one must do things that the manufacturer didn't specify. It interests me to see how exactly people are pushing something longer then it was made to go. That said I'm at odds with a more restrictive filter media.
I'm sorry but after owning a 6.0 liter powerstroke I no longer trust manufacturer.
Back in the 60s motor guard and Frantz had these nice demo units you would add enough lamp black to turn the oil black then you would filter it out
I started using the Frantz in 1963. My Rambler came with a spin on bypass filter. Bolted to the head the same as a Ford flat head with steel oil lines.Of course the Ford used a cartrige filter and good elements were available.they used cotton
Which were as good as toilet paper if it was packed tightly. A Fram element could turn the oil clear in a gasoline engine the same as a Frantz. Most people didn't change the element often enough. You didn't have a choice with the Rambler. Spin on filters were not available that cleaned oil. Pleated paper is useless at cleaning oil. I think sometime in the 60s pleated paper replaced the superior cotton elements. Frantz came out with an adapter that allowed you to use toilet paper in the old housings. Frantz came out with a copy of the old Fram housing that used of course toilet paper. Frantz came out with a 3 stacker. For diesels that took three rolls of course Toilet paper. Not good marketing
They realized later they should have came out with. A more expensive element that could work as good as toilet paper that they could call something else. Motor Guard and Gulf Coast filters also learned that lesson a little late.
Don’t take any paper off roll, push hole end over knee, to make dimple one end of roll, put wire extraction tool in dimpled end of roll, that end into hole of can and push till it’s in ,and flat on roll other end. Completely in. That makes it easier to fit.
We were using the Franz bypass filter along with the full flow filter back in the mid 1960's. We would change the Frantz filter (toilet paper roll) every 1,000 miles, along with extended mile oil changes. We could see on top of the Frantz filter anything going on in the motor. One time were seeing bearing wear (fixed that). Another time we started seeing powdered iron (camshaft failing) (fixed that). Both motors came out for the fix. Started blocking the bypass in the filter housing for the full flow as even though we found wear on top of the bypass filter, still damage done to the bearings from the camshaft failure. Did this for decades on our street machines (not muscle cars). Frantz oil filters were around $30.00. Toilet paper??? Have the oil analyzed after using the two different filters to actually see which one really does the best.
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Before the 50s all filters were optional equipment. All filters were bypass filters. All bypass filters had an orifice to reduce the flow of oil thru the element. The best elements used cotton. Later bypass filters for trucks such as Luber Finer used pulverized newspapers. The best available these days use toilet paper or paper towels. Pleated filters are only good for full flow filters. Full flow filters are for removing engine damaging abrasives and can't remove smaller engine wearing abrasives.
I haven't used the Frantz elements for about 30 years. I am now using Wal mart Great Value 1000. I have modified my filters to use the shorter paper. The reason I use the filters is because they use toilet paper. If I could get the Frantz elements at Wal Mart I would try them. If you can keep your oil clean and dry acid isn't a problem. All of your diesel oils will neutralize acid. 30 years ago all the Frantz elements were was high quality toilet paper with a thicker core.
Motor Guard is the same way. Toilet paper was the best thing since since sliced bread until they came out with their own elements. John Frantz had a hell of a good idea. The best oil filter available for about 10 cents in 53. Probably not the best marketing choice.
We all now know where FRAM got its inspiration.
MrNedsaabdickerson it's Frantz I believe, not Fram..
Robert LaFountaine ,that one went way over your head
Yup, good filtration.
Yeah. Lol
One of.the first bypass filters I used was a Fram with a Cotton.element. I removed the cotton from the element and converted it to toilet paper. It filtered like the Fram element.From the outside to the center. Had to punch the core full of holes. Used a piece of under sink drain pipe drilled full of holes. Trying to avoid paying the obscene price of 29.95 for a new Frantz.
It has happened many times. You sell someone a toilet paper filter.you don't know it but the guy hasn't changed his oil in a long time. His engine is loaded with sludge. 50 miles or so the. Frantz can't hold any more sludge.you have told him to change the filter every 2000 miles and add a new quart of oil. When the rods start knocking the guy goes to a mechanic.The mechanic sees the Frantz and tells him his engine is full of toilet paper. If the Frantz.wasn't there he would be told the engine is full of sludge I towed in a Toyota. A piston was hitting the head. I removed the pan. It had a inch or so of something that looked like black sand. The oil looked like gear oil
The toilet paper was a piece of carbon shaped like toilet paper. Part of the full flow filter paper was missing. It had been over 3 years since the filters or oil had been changed. I am the one that sold him the filter. He was nice about it. Said he had been too busy to take care of the car. It was a Motor Guard.
Awesome tip, thank you for sharing. I remember you installing that. Thanks for sharing
My bypass filter is a centrifuge, and it cleans the oil down to 1 micron or less. No filter in it, just requires cleaning out the built-up sludge now and then and far easier to clean.
Back in my younger days I had a Honda 305 Dream motor cycle with a centrifuge. Did a good job.
Other than that I have no experience with them. They were common on Mack trucks.
I used a Stilko toilet paper oil filter on my 68 Ford 289 Torino GT. You just replace the regular oil filter and screw in the Stilko oil filter and add oil to replace oil absorbed by the toilet paper. The oil filter has fins around It to help cool the oil. Never lost a drop of oil. The oil is always clean. No tools needed.
It was a little risky using a Stilko. They converted the full flow system to a bypass system. Anything big might go right into the bearings. You had to have a wrench to change the under sized roll of toilet paper. Not a good filter. They would clean oil because they used toilet paper. About a third of a roll. Trasco is another one.
Those filters are for cars that dont have room for a larger filter that takes.a.full.roll of paper
They. Will get the job.done. I wouldn't want one.you have converted the full flow filter system.to a bypass system
The element is too small. I have one of them that I bought over 50 years ago.
I can imagine John Frantz thinking people will love my filters. For less than.10 cents it's the best filter element available. I was talking to an old timer with a 53 Chevy.He said he bought it new and installed a Frantz on it. He stopped and talked to me when I was selling the Frantz filters at a Flea market at least 30 years ago. Another guy showed me his two 3 stackers.He said he goes to Safeway and gets a 6 pack of Safeway Truly Fine. The NASA engineer said these toilet paper filters are only good for industrial use. The average car owner doesn't keep a car long long enough. I think he is right. Engines don't generate contamination like they used to. There are exceptions. Sorry I'm on the rampage.might be too much coffee.
I have a 2002 Elantra with almost 200,000 miles on it. It stop running last week and when I took it apart I was shocked when how much scoring there was and how much where there was inside this engine shocked because ever since brand new I've only used synthetic oil and a good quality synthetic filter.
A friend of mine had a car with a secondary bypass filter it was a very large filter like you would find on a big rig and I don't have room for that type of filter in this car. I am disabled so I cannot work and this car needs to last me at least another 60 to 70 thousand miles don't have the money to replace an engine in this car a bypass filter is definitely what I need. Thank you for making this video I have seen the Frantz filter before, but I thought it was just one of those gimmicks.
The question is how much do these things cost.
Oh, and thank you for making such a comprehensive video.
Steve Cobratei what brand of synthetic oil did you use?
I had a 2003 accent I bought with about 160 K. It was a piece of crap. I'm told the newer ones are better. The engine held up but the tyranny didn't. I think I would stick with a Toyota. These bypass filters aren't as impressive for modern cars.you can do fine changing the oil as recommended. These filters are a problem if you have to depend on others to service your car. I'm a fanatic do it yourselfer.
I know a guy with a nice looking Hyundai. Threw a rod at 70 K. Warranty covered it. He is wealthy. He went and bought a new Sports model Camry. He has a beautiful old Camry sitting there. Asked him if he would sell it. Said he is giving it to his daughter. Said her Camry has 500 K on it and is starting to give her problems. Said he would sell me the Hyumdai.
Toilet roll has to be 500 sheets of 2ply you may need to remove a few sheets.Best thing to do before fitting the roll is to put the roll on your knee & pull the roll down to make a small cone shape then insert the pointie bit in last & get a small tin ect same size or so as the roll holder & push roll in but not hard up the top canister.Mount canister to base & a firm hit with your hand then tighten clamp.
OK, the oil in the filter was "black". What does the oil look like in the rest of the engine? *My mechanic runs synthetic and changes at 7.000 miles said his car has 300,000 miles on it.
When I found out about the Frantz I had a nearly new Rambler American. The flat head 6 came with a bypass filter. The oil would get. Black in a few days. I changed the oil often. I was getting Delo 100 for 29 cents.An old foogy came into the station. When I checked his oil I made the remark I see you just changed your oil. He pointed to his Frantz and said son if.you had one of these filters you wouldn't need to change your oil and your engine won't wear out..I knew he was an engineer at Standard oil. We knew our customers in those days. The oil never got black again.In the old carburetor days the oil got black in a hurry. I thought every one will want one of these.I signed up as a dealer got a Frantz demo and some carbon black.I went to the big berryessa Flea market in San Jose..Ca. About the first guy stopped and explained to me how oil is supposed to get dirty it means it's doing its job. I never heard so much bull shot in my young life. Its not complicated. The full flow filter removes the engine damaging abrasives. To remove the smaller engine wearing abrasives You change the oil or add a depth filter.at normal oil temperature The water and fuel is removed. You don't get acid without water. If you are getting coolant in your oil fix the leak.Diesel engines generate a lot of soot.You will need to change the filter more often.. Some soot particles will get thru even toilet paper.It is not abrasive but will turn the oil black. Black is not an abrasive.Rub some in the palm. If it's clean it will wipe off clean.
The Frantz is a good filter. I have the Gulf Coast O 1 junior. It's a top loader. Takes me about a half a minute to change it .
I have two Gulf Coast O 1 Junior bypass filters. I am willing to sell one of them if you know anyone interested. The other one I'm keeping.
The Frantz was the worse designed filter of the bunch. This demonstration makes them look even worse. All I have now is Gulf Coast juniors Motor Guards a Australian Jackmaster Classic and a flat head Ford V8 canister filter converted to take a 4 1/2 inch roll or Scott 1000 sheet. My old 6.9 had the Gulf Coast junior bolted to the fan shroud as high as possible. Returned the oil to the oil fill neck with a self tapping hollow bolt. The excess oil drained over night.. Used the Frantz for about 20 years before the better designed top loaders came out. When the oil in my Rambler American went from black and dirty to amber colored I didnt nit pick the lousy design. In 1963 Delo was 29 cents in the discount stores.
the trouble with switching from conventional to synthetic is it cleans out your engine and sometimes it works too well and the gaskets and seals will leak.
the bypass it's self has a small orafice on the outflow side where the oil is clean, these engines normally have a 2500 mile oil change interval so any bit of filtration helps.
KFStreich old tech no it doesn’t that is a wives tale from 45 years ago.
Your facts about synthetic oil are from 1975 and are old wives tales.
I recently went to synthetic from conventional in the 93 Legacy with 225.000 miles on it.. seems ok at 240.000 miles. Probably wasnt necessary. Its just a backup car now.
One pproblem we had back in the 60s was we had a lot of Sludged up engines that had been badly neglected. They might have 2 quarts of motor oil and 5 quarts of sludge counting what was in the valley and the valve covers. The little toilet paper filters could handle about 6 ounces which would sometimes take only a few miles to clog the filter. If the engine had a full flow filter It might have been clogged for a long time With the bypass valve open. It was too late for any bypass filter. The non stock filter will get the blame for the stupidity of the engine lower. We don't have that problem these days. I recently bought a 2006 Nissan Altima with 225 k on it. The valve guides were worn. When I pulled the cam cover it looked like a new engine. That would have been unheard of in the 60s.piece of cake for a toilet paper filter for this car.
I noticed a number on contrarian posts here. It's their loss. My neighbor used have one of these back in the early '70s. He showed me what the oil was like after 3,000 on his '65 Fairlane. In those days, EVERY car's oil was a mess by 3,000 miles. His on the other hand, looked like light amber honey, but with the appropriate viscosity.
I always wanted to get one of these; I'll look to see if I have enough room, but they work great. The proof was in the pudding. A bit pricey at $274 for the Universal Kit, but doable.
My only concern is with extending oil change intervals in cold weather, where more time is spent in a fuel rich condition and gas vapors precipitate onto the cylinder walls on down into the crankcase. The result would be fuel dilution, but that's the same issue with any vehicle in winter weather and has nothing to do with the oil filter.
You said it like it is. In cold weather short trips sometimes the Frantz can't keep up with the sludge. With me it was a piece of cake. In North Idaho I was driving 70 miles a day. When I found out about the Frantz I was working in a full service Standard Station. The dip stick told the story. With these modern cars the
Oil can be dirty and still look decent on the dipstick Because there is little soot in the oil. What the Frantz can't remove is just a color. Probably a gasoline engine with an upright Frantz would be better for demonstrations. People judge the oil by its color.I tried some black Arco graphite oil once with a Motor Guard. It didn't stay black long.
We have to depend on heat and the crankcase ventilation to get rid of the fuel and water. Not enough engine heat for long enough and you have a problem. Of course diesel needs even more heat. A Frantz can remove about 6 oz of water.That's nothing compared to how much the engine produces.
The bypass filter can't think.It can't say hey man I am full of sludge and need to be changed.
My first Frantz cost me 29.95 when I signed up as a dealer it was 19.95. Installation was 6.00. Usually plenty of room except something like a Lincoln.
Your suppose to use Charmin TP. It piggy backs into your existing oil filter system. Change the TP. Add one qt of oil
Learn something new every day. Never say a filter like that before
So Heath, are you still running a Frantz bypass system on the newer trucks you have now? I can't say that I remember seeing one on that new Ford project you have going. I was just curious because I am finally going to break down and buy a kit but then I started second guessing myself.
They are all a little different. On my 6.9 diesel Ford I bolted the filter to the plastic fan shroud on the driver side. After it sits over night the housing is drained. No spillage. I returned the oil to the fill neck lower than the filter. The filter wont drain unless air can enter the housing. Gasoline engines are the same as diesel engines in that a very small amount of soot is non abrasive and too small to be filtered out. My oil is clear on my gasoline engines on the dipstick
The difference is on a diesel the non abrasive soot is a lot more. The black oil in a diesel will be as clean as the oil in a gasoline engine if the filter is changed often enough. Black doesnt mean dirty. On my diesels I like for the oil to be a shiny black like it has ink in it. Not grey black.
Bypass filters are common on the big rigs since they hold 50 quarts changes are costly. Besides these and other brands filter down to 1 or 2 microns. The big ones are OPS brand and Amsoil makes one also. Oil doesn't wear out it just gets contaminated from soot and other particles going by the rings. Soot in the oil can breakdown the zinc dithiophosphate which is an oil additive that comes in the oil for extreme pressure like camshafts (developed in the 40s). Oil also has what is know as TBN or total base number, base is used up neutralizing acids in the oil. When the test samples shows the base is getting low the more can be added. So bottom line these types of filters do work and get the oil cleaner than the full flow factory filter can. Not snake oil boys.
To reduce the amount of soot in the oil we reduced the flow thru the filter. I believe Frantz had a smaller orifice for that purpose. My cars have a .025 orifice that I make Out of a wire welder tip. When I was selling Gulf Coast Filters a customer drilled out the orifice so that the filter could filter faster. Bad mistake.
When I say modern cars have almost no large abrasives and lots of smaller engine wearing abrasives it is true but don't compare to the old cars. You could pull a roll of toilet paper out of a Frantz. Squeeze the top and nasty sludge would come out. Squeeze the bottom and beautiful golden oil would come out. You knew the Frantz was doing its job. With these newer gasoline powered engines its hard to tell the difference.
No one has ever came up with. a better filter than a firm roll of toilet paper. The problem with toilet paper is the name and it doesn't cost enough. Another problem is when Frantz came out toilet paper was pretty much a standard size.Frantz called for 2 ply facial quality which was easy to find. I just found a roll of 50 year old Scott that my wife had stashed.NASA had a problem with the purchasing department.They ordered Gulf Coast Filters to put a sock around the paper towels and toilet paper and call them fiilter elements.
A buddy of mine had one of these on his 1970 Ford Pinto back in the early 70's. One thing I remember is that it filtered EVERYTHING out of that oil. He would run it 3-4000 miles and that oil would look as clean as the day he put it in. I guess a diesel is a bit too much for it.
TexasScout Noneofyourbusiness Excellent point!!!
Rub a little in the palm of your hand. If the oil fills up the crevices in your palm and won't wipe off you aren't changing the filter often enough. The black is only a color such as ink.
Back before fuel injection engines generated a lot of soot. The oil turned black in a short time. Install a Frantz or a Motor Guard and the oil looked new again. The housings were no big deal. It was the 2 ply facial quality toilet paper inside that did it.We changed the filter more often and added more.new oil in those days. Not like my Altima that gets a new roll every 6 k and a quart of synthetic. Not like a diesel that generate a lot of soot and some soot particles too small to filter out. That are only a color like ink. There is dirty black oil and there is clean black oil.
In 1970 I was working for Ford. My boss had a Mustang dragster with a Chevy racing engine compliments of Chevrolet. Valvoline furnished the oil. Baldwin furnished the filters. I put a Frantz on the tow truck. Later I put a Motor Guard on his Plymouth Fury. When I heard something stupid like that paper will get in the oil or other stupid remarks I would say I put put filters on Joe Davis's vehicles. The filters were easier to sell after that. I lost track when I left California.When I left the tow truck had over 350 k on it. Almost all of it with no oil drains using Chevron Delo 100 20 wt. He changed the Frantz about every 2000 miles. 63 Chevy Suburban with the big 6 292 I believe. One of his sponsors was a chrome outfit. His dip stick was chromed. Made the oil look even better.
The way diesel owners mess up is they dont change the filter often enough. The more soot goes in the oil the more often you change the filter. My old 6.9 Ford diesel got a toilet paper change and a new quart of oil about every 1500 or 2000 miles.The oil was black but it was clean.i can spot dirty oil from across the room gasoline or Diesel. Some diesel.pickup owners are installing the big paper towel filters. I did a Fleet of them. All Powerstrokes and one Dodge Cummins. NASA saw my posts and started using them. He said they are for.industrial use only. The average person doesnt keep a vehicle long enough for.it to pay. I think he is right in many cases.They use the Gulf Coast. I dont do them any more. The big 80 got me.
This filtration oli filter actually works and it has been around for 60 years or more. I own one of these oil filter system.
With the Frantz demonstration unit you would put enough carbon black in the container to turn it black.You would turn on the pump and circulate the oil thru a pleated paper filter. Any brand of spin.on would do.The oil lines were clear plastic. The oil would go in black and come out black. Of course when you switched to the Frantz The oil came out clear.Of course even though you couldn't see it a very small. amount was so small it found its way thru the paper.It was only a color and not an abrasive
I probably change my toilet paper more often than most.On a diesel engine I want the oil to be a shiny black such as black shoe polish. It is easy to spot dirty diesel truck oil. I know what the lab will say. The oil is analytically clean. After 50 years you know when the oil is dirty.
I admit I'm very curious about one of these, but the fact of the matter is a well-maintained engine won't contaminate the oil with enough particulates to matter before the oil loses its film strength and needs to be flushed anyway.
The problem is people make a lot of assumptions . They think they know more than people that have used them for.50 years. Was working in a full service Standard station in California in 1963. The Frantz came from Modesto ca. It was sir I see you just changed your oil. It was like yes 100,000 miles ago. That's how I got hooked. The grocery stores were full of high quality toilet paper. Now you have to be a highly skilled toilet paper squeezer or buy the Frantz elements.or just buy Scott 1000. I have been using some Great Value 1000. TP sometimes changes.on my old Motor Guards I put a spacer in to compensate for the shorter rolls. Probably not necessary..the new model Frantz is designed.for TP. It looks like to me. It looks more user friendly when using Scott 1000.
It looks like you are like a lot of others in that you already have it figured out.
The challenge when the Frantz first came out was removing the large abrasives before they could destroy the engine. Oil filters were optional equipment in most cases. They were all bypass filters that hooked up the same as the Frantz. There are almost no large abrasives in a modern engine. Lots of small engine wearing abrasives. Sludge was a big problem in those days. Crankcase ventilation was a road draft tube that put the blow by under the car then to the atmosphere so that every one could breath it. When California decided to outlaw the road draft tube in favor of the PCV valve the old cars had trouble. Now the blow by is fouling the valves piston rings ECT. A porely maintained engine would be more than a filter could handle. Not so much of a problem these days. We still hope when we install a filter that cleans oil The engine is either new or has been properly maintained.
Toilet paper can remove carbon black enough to make it look nice.That's how the filters were demonstrated. There will be a very small amount that is non abrasive that will get thru. When demonstrating the filters You don't want to use the same oil until it gets dark. I sometimes used diesel fuel. I think some people used cooking oil. Less messy to deal with. The same thing is happening in a diesel. You are just dealing with a lot more soot.At one time Frantz sold filters to restaurants to filter cooking oil. They could use the oil longer. The military has paper towel filters on parts cleaners. Saves a lot of money.
Gotta laugh at all these guys who obviously don't know the purpose or workings of a bypass filter like this. Or the ones who still swear by the old 3000 mile oil change fallacy. Oil analysis doesn't lie. But hey, if you enjoy wasting money and time changing your oil all the time, be my guest.
So agree.
bigchevy80 I just bought a 1946 Chevy truck with a Frantz sky filtering. I noticed there was no oil filter. I can’t a filter for it. I’m using synthetic Mobil 1 oil. Can anyone help me?
I bought a truck with a Frantz sky (whatever that means)? It didn’t have a oil filter in it! Can anyone tell me the part number for it, I’m using synthetic oil in the 235 cid. Thanks
Fallacy? I've never seen an engine destroyed by changing the oil too often, but I've seen alot of them destroyed by not changing the oil enough. It all depends on how long you want the engine to run before it wears out.
I have no idea why people can believe that allowing the oil to get dirty wear and foul the engine then draining it is better than never letting it get dirty. Actually I know. Clean oil doesn't generate profits.
Car engine shitting on toilet paper makes Sense lol😁😅
It is true the Frantz elements are better. I have used toilet paper for over 50 years. The Great Value 1000. In the 16 pack costs me less than 60 cents and it is just fine.
Frantz.might be the only toilet paper filter left. I like the new model they call a refiner. There is a guy with red gloves on UA-cam that shows the correct way to service the new model. You put the TP on the base then push the housing down over the full roll of Scott 1000 or other paper the same size. Saw one guy remove paper and do it the same way as the old model. Dont know the price. When it's something that will last a lifetime what's a few dollars.
good video, but i've been thinking. Doesn't a regular oil filter have a by-pass , should the filter clog. If not the engine will starve of oil. So by filtering down to a few microns, i would be afraid of oil starvation and the results. Not sure really.
That's why they call it a "by pass" filter. Only 10% or so of the oil is filtered in this filter. 90% goes thru the regular filter at any given time.
The bypass oil filter takes pressurized oil and runs it through the medium; filter, toilet paper, AND then an orifice before returning the oil to the fill tube in this case.
Without the orifice it would drop oil pressure from the system; perhaps excessively.
If the bypass filter or orifice becomes plugged, it defaults to stock.
When it can't hold any more sludge oil will stop going thru it. Then it is the same as before you installed it. The oil just starts getting dirty. Before the 60s there were no full flow filters. Cars came with either no filter or a bypass filter. Sometimes filters were optional equipment.
With the conventional way of installing a bypass filter the clean oil is continuously going into the oil pan until lt is all clean.The oil isn't supplying any parts.It is supplying the oil pan with clean oil. A Perma Cool universal sandwich adapter doesn't supply. the. oil pan it directs the oil to the full flow filter. It is actually an oil cooler adapter but works the same for. the bypass filter
.No orifice is needed.with that system.
His Frantz hooks up the same.as the factory installed bypass filters on my 41 Dodge or the 55 Studebaker. If the filter is neglected and clogs up clean oil stops going to the oil pan. The Gulf Coast junior on my 6.9 Ford diesel hooked up exactly the same as the 55 Studebaker V8 . Clean oil went into the oil fill neck. Had the factory installed bypass filter. No full flow filters on those cars. My oil is.probably cleaner than his because I change my TP more.often than he does. Some bolt a big Gulf Coast on the frame. That's for people that drive a lot of miles. Did that on a Dodge Cummins. Had to cut a 1/4 inch plate so I could fasten both brackets . Bolt pattern wider than the frame.
At one time Frantz sold ATF adapters. Don't know if they have them now. I make my own. It is two tees with a 1/8" orifice in between them. The fluid hits the orifice and some of it goes to the Frantz. The clean fluid goes to the lower pressure side of the orifice. I think Frantz used a smaller size orifice. Gulf Coast used 1/8" Of course you need to know which way the fluid is flowing.
After reading all these comments and everyone stating their 2 cents... From what I can surmise is, it's just safer and better to just change your oil like you're suppose to and then every 100,000 miles do an oil flush with additives I've seen on other videos. Like using Totally Awesome.
Other than that, no matter what, I agree with some of the posts here, it's better to follow the manufacturer's suggested maintenance routines.
Lastly, I have never understood why anyone keeps a car for more than 15-20 years? Unless the car is a specialty (i,e, hot rod, luxury sports car, high-end luxury car or something custom) it makes no sense to me why keep a car longer when all the parts and debris start braking down and then the car becomes a REALLY BIG MONEY PIT!
And I know most people, who read this, will say it's because most people can't afford a new car or don't want car payments.
But what I say to that is... you HAD 20 YEARS to save up to buy the new car! If you can not save $1000 PER YEAR, which is only $84 PER MONTH, which is only $21 PER WEEK,, then something is wrong with you.
Bernie Cruz because not everyone needs to have new things to make themselves feel good. I drive a 21 year old car that runs just as good as the day it was new. There's nothing wrong with it, so there's no point in replacing it. Anything that breaks on it can be fixed easily. But then again, cars from 20 years ago were built way better than the crap they have today.
Buying a new car is not only about to make oneself feel good. But to have a more reliable vehicle where one doesn't have to keep pouring money into the car that's over 20 years old. Yes, i can understand, your car is running fine for it's age, but I bet if you added up every single penny you spent on that car excluding regular maintenance (i.e. oil changes, tire and brake replacements, radiator flushes, brake and transmission flushes, etc...) you would realize that you're "perfectly running" vehicle is only running "perfectly" because of the amount of money you put into it to keep it running that way. And also, if you've been the type who works on the vehicle yourself, then you would need to factor your time into the cost factor as well, to come up with the accurate cost invested into keeping the, over 20 years old, vehicle. And to do that, you'd use the factors of how much you personally earn on an hourly bases at your "normal" or full-time job.
(i.e. spent 5 hrs fixing a problem on your car in one day X $30/hr = $150 on labor cost)
So, add all that up and you'll find that keeping a car for such a long time, which has outdated technology in it along with old concepts and lower performance features compared to modern cars today... and you'll realize that keeping a car for such that long of a time-frame, makes no sense. Financially or sentimentally.
Bernie Cruz I can guarantee that any amount of work and money that I put into this car over the years is still way cheaper than paying $20,000-30,000 for a new one every few years. Those of us who can work on our own equipment know that just because something is newer does not necessarily make it better or more reliable. Any kind of so-called newer technology is also a moot point. The only technology needed is a car that runs good, is reliable and gets me where I need to go. All of which this one does very well, and without high payments and insurance.
You go ahead and keep buying a new car every few years and keep wasting all that money on depreciation. People with your flawed mindset are what keeps people like me laughing all the way to the bank.
Actually Bigchevy80... my mindset is all about money being nothing but a tool. A tool that allows me to get done whatever I need to get done.
And you actually contradicted yourself with the comment "keep wasting all that money on depreciation" because even though your car gets older and older, it still depreciates just like any other car and you're the one who's wasting money on parts that are failing left and right due to their age and wearing out.
Eventually you'll spend money on replacing every single part the car came with including parts on the body.
Which this means "your wasting money".
I'd rather spend my money on something new, looks better, runs better, has warranty, has all my maintenances covered and even get a FREE RENTAL (which I save money on due to that I don't have to pay for on my insurance policy). So, you go ahead and keep dumping all your hard earned money (which you obviously work long and hard hours for) into a vehicle that will just keep eating up your money as time goes on. Meanwhile, I'll spend my valuable time, doing the least amount of work while making the maximum amount of money, to boot, and then spend my extra free time (not repairing my car) on things like vacations and other entertainments which I enjoy in life.
Bottom line, is, I earn the amount of money where I've learned the fundamental lesson of finances and that is, MONEY IS NOTHING BUT A TOOL/RESOURCE TO USE TO GET THINGS DONE!
You obviously have not learned this lesson in life. Most likely because those who have to work their asses off for pennies, tend to value money like it's the most valuable commodity in the world! Which it's not.
Bernie Cruz A car this old does not depreciate at the rate a new car does. I paid $4500 for that car over a decade ago, and I've spent less than half that amount on a decade's worth of maintenance. So yeah, less than $7000 for over a decades worth of use and 130,000 miles driven is a good deal in my book. Most people lose more than that in depreciation over the first year of owning a new car.
That money saved goes towards being COMPLETELY debt free and having all the money I could ever need for all that other stuff you listed, like vacations, hobbies and other toys.
It's not that money isn't a tool, it's that some people utilize their tools better than others. Most people I know that buy new cars every few years are in debt up to their eyeballs. When it comes down to it, I could care less what you do with your money. But telling someone that it doesn't make sense to keep a vehicle this long is your OPINION and nothing more.
Back in my Frantz days in the 60s some Ford's ran a little rich. It was harder to keep the oil clear like we wanted.. To reduce the amount size of the soot particle
I bought a synthetic element made to replace the TP roll, it felt hard like plastic. When I put it in the canister, I could not get the can to fit down on the base enough to install the clamp band. I pulled it up and the ring around the tube was digging into the element. Does this channeling ring need to be removed? After about a half hour of pushing on this canister, I did get the V clamp band started and continuing to push the filter down, the assembly was back together.
I just bought this system about the time Frantz was acquired by the current company. I'm not happy that I may need to replace the filter assembly because the element does not fit or assemble like the Scotts 1000 roll previously used.. The positive thing is that fine grit can no longer be felt in the oil on the discharge side, TP did not stop all particles from passing through the roll confirmed by a particle count sampled on the return line.
The best place for the ring is on the trash can. Its not needed with the Scott 1000 sheet if the roll fits snug.
I have a 30 year old Frantz element. It looks like a custom made roll of toilet paper with a thick core.The advantage is it fits. Other than that I don't see an advantage over Scott 1000. I use toilet paper filters because I like to use toilet paper.
Just wondering if you have done a particle count with the synthetic elements compared to tp. The synthetic and cellulose Frantz elements are 4 1/2 inches tall, their filters don't come with the ring anymore, it's not needed with their elements that they want you to use, I would keep the ring on hand when you want to use tp.
I hear a lot about the bypass filters voiding the warranty. This goes For any non stock item such as power chips exhaust brakes ECT . That's fair they are not responsible for anything non stock.There are a lot of Gulf Coast Filters on trucks now. One guy goes into a truck dealership.He said he needed for them to remove the Gulf Coast filter and put it on the new truck. He was told that will void the warranty. He said no problem I will buy another truck that won't void the warranty. The salesman said wait I will make a call. The salesman came back and said good news the warranty isn't voided. Don't remember the engine makes. It doesn' t matter Gulf Coast has letters from the engine makers stating the warranty isn't voided. On the other hand the government was told if they put Gulf Coast Filters on a large Mercedes diesel engine instead of Mercedes filters It would void the warranty. How much money would you be able to spend fighting Mercedes Benz.
Many years ago working in a machine shop it was believed that this old toilet paper filter method was the culprit to plugging up hydraulic lifters. Leading to bad things...
The filters have served me well fot.almost 60 years. Put one on a neglected engine with a quart or two of sludge and you have a problem. Not much of a problem with these modern fuel injected engines and synthetic oils.Years ago a guy asked me if a Frantz would help fix a noise in his engine. I asked him how long it had been since his last oil change.He said I dont know it's been a long time. I wouldnt go near that engine. In the old days when you overhauled an engine the hardest job was cleaning the engine. My old 76 F 250 had some oil leaks.in the 390.I decided to replace all the gaskets.The engine was pristine except some carbon on the pistons and valves No sludge anywhere. It uses Delo 400 15 40. The non synthetic oils are a lot better these days. The 390 has an old Motor Guard on it. Motor Guard was the only TP filter that was safe to use for compressed air. All they make now is compressed air filters. No I dont drain oil.
Hey, what happened to the oil analysis?
He realized this filter is snake oil. Lol.. "I Promise" He'll never change it again.. Pfft.. riiiight.
@@DakkarDragontis Snake oil even though Its proven that removing fine Micron particles form engine oil with a filter Improves engine longevity by up to 70% ......But im sure you're the master of oil analysis and knowledge on all that is worth knowing....
@@themisunderstoodgorilla7030 he said he'd never have to change the oil again, and that oil is as black as it would've been without it.
@@DakkarDragontis Oh yeah for sure, But a good bypass filter such as the one mentioned will extend engine life and oil change intervals.
@@themisunderstoodgorilla7030 of course, and more filtration is always better, but the top filler is not the way to go.
Most of the good paper in the 60s isn't so good now. Of course the Frantz elements are good. Haven't used the Frantz in 20 years or so. The Motor Guards and Gulf Coasts are more user friendly. Dont need sleeves and rings. They all clean oil. Motor Guard converted to compressed air. Dont know about the little Gulf.Coast filters. Gulf Coast mostly does heavy duty diesel filters. Been using Great Value 1000 from Walmart. Some use Scott 1000.
Just stumbled onto some Amsoil stuff. They have that sales pitch down. I tried Amsoil in a company pickup when they had Bobby Unser saying this oil change is forever. At about 60 K the oil was like road tar almost lost my job.I was using the Frantz.The Frantz was a better filter and the Amsoil filter.was.pretty good. The problem was I was using Amsoil recommendations. The filters now aren't as good as the original one. The sales pitch is really good.
Nice job. Never would have thought that was possible. But all's well and good until a global pandemic comes along and toilet paper becomes a rare commodity.
These big engines that have gone over a million miles without an oil drain haven't done it on the same oil.When they change the big roll paper towels. Normally 2 rolls on a truck they are adding about 2 gallons of new oil. An off shore rig it might be Many rolls. The Frantz is the same system but with only a qt added. The best element for the Luber Finer or Cummins Fleet Guard 750s uses pulverized newspapers and wood chips. Haven't seen the cotton elements for awhile.
I remember my dad used to sell those back in the sixties.
People think the oil is dirty because it is black.There will be a small amount of soot that is non.abrasive and will find its way through even the Frantz. Elements. It is like ink. The same thing is happening in my gasoline cars but the amount of soot is so low it is hardly noticeable. I notice the oil looks like dark honey in the Pontiac Torrant and light honey in the Nissan.Altima.This suggests to me that the Altima is generating less soot. I have toilet paper filters on propane lift trucks The oil looks the same as new. Some say heat turns the oil dark.as far as I can see with the oils I use only soot will turn the oil dark. When I started using the Frantz Frantz would tell you which oil stayed golden When clean. At one time.Frantz had their own oil. Of course it was golden When clean. Diesel pickups weren't common then.
When using this filter my understanding is you still have your normal oil filter. Is this right and does this filter system have its own pump? I'm just wondering why people are saying this is bad to use?
People don't like what they arent familiar with. I've used them for years. The engine oil pressure is used to push the oil through. You use this along with your standard oil filter.
Red Poppy Ranch to me it seems like a great idea.less stuff going into one oil filter seems that you would be giving your normal oil filter longer life keeping normal flow. You can get 12 rolls of Scott for around $8. Id change that filter every 1000 to 1500 miles then normal filter every 5000 miles.Seem like a great simple Idea. I would like it better if it had it's own oil pump. I really think thats it only down fall. I may look into modifying one with a separate pump.
It is very rare but I have seen engines so worn out that the oil pressure light would come on at idle. You wouldn't put a bypass filter on that. At one time all filters were bypass types. Even the Rolls Royce . They all had a orifice so that the oil pump could supply the engine and the bypass filter. The Frantz will keep the full flow filter clean and free of acid. Once a.year would be excessive. I did fine in northern Idaho but I was driving 70 miles a day. Short trips in cold weather requires more attention to the filters because of condensation causing sludge. Filters that clean oil need more attention.Especially in cold weather.
My 19 horse power lawn mower has a toilet paper filter and a full flow filter.the stock oil pump can easily supply both filters. Briggs and Stratton. The same for my lawn tractor with the Kohler v twin.
At one time all filters were bypass types. They were optional equipment. They all had an orifice the same as a Frantz. There were no full flow filters. There were engines at one time that didn't need a filter. You put oil in a tank the oil lubricated the engine and dripped on the dirt road.
When I found out about the Frantz I also put one on my uncle's 59 Ford. That was a mistake.I was changing the Frantz every 50 miles. To make matters worse he had removed the thermostat. In those days if you bought a used car you might need to open up the top and wash the sludge down into the oil pan. Then remove the oil pan and clean it before installing the Frantz. If you are smart you don't install a Frantz on a relatives car unless you plan on taking care of it.
About 40 years ago I installed a Frantz on.my Peugeot diesel. I returned the clean oil to the valve cover on the wrong side of the baffle. With my wife driving headed to town. Started down a long hill.my wife.said it won't slow down. The engine was running on Mobil 1. We managed to get off the road. I stuffed a jacket in the air intake to kill it. One time I had to get my wife to Tulsa to the Airport. We got diesel at Sedan ks. Just north of Bartlesville ok the engine quit. The Frantz that I was using for a primary filter was full of Ice. We had gotten water in sedan. Trooper stopped and asked if we needed help. I said I need to get my wife to Tulsa airport. He said I will take her to Bartlesville. She .can take the Phillips 66 buss to the airport. A guy stopped and pulled me to a store. I replaced the frozen toilet paper.Poured in some HEET and headed home. It was a cold son of a bitch.
Ok i'll go with the low micron count filtration of the oil, but exactly what is filtering out the dust/lint from the toilet paper itself? My wife works for a company that makes paper product including TP and she said the only paper they make that shouldn't (note shouldn't, not definetly) leave it's own dust/lint would be coffee filter (on the low end) and science/lab wipes.
Don't know where you get your paper. I have about 3 brands in the house. None of them have loose paper dust on them. Some say yes but the paper isn't treated.It is when the hot oil hits it.
I may just grab one of these setups.
How exactly does that work? It looks like it goes in and out in the middle
Actually any of these filters that use some type of tissue paper will get the job done as a truck driver I have seen many good ones cotton is very good i. f it is compressed enough some of the luberfiner
types use cotton or recycled newspapers and wood chips A firm roll of toilet paper is a wonderful oil filter but watch out for the b's stories they come with toilet paper filters. Using the filters since 1963
Does the system extend the life of the past 10000 miles
Oil that never gets dirty will greatly extend engine life.clean oil doesn't allow sludge to build up in the engine. Using filters that don't clean oil then going back to have your dirty oil changed generates profits for the oil changers but does nothing for the car owner. One problem with the new cars is finding a place to mount them. On my Nissan Altima I have two filters between the grill and radiator. I remove the grill to change the Toilet paper. Its a hassle but I am a clean oil fanatic.
Was at Walmart the other day getting
some synthetic oil. I believe they had 5 10 and 20 thousand mile oil. I got the 20 thousand mile oil. You dont even need a filter to go 20thousand miles
Probably better to keep it clean.
Project Farm says the Super Tech 10 K oil is as good as the 20 K mile oil. I normally dont drain oil.
Just bought a 16 pack of Great Value 1000 at Walmart. I didnt have to remove any rounds of paper. Looks like it is the same diameter as what we used in the 60s. The core is a little larger than 1 1/2." It was a perfect fit in the Motor Guards.The last Great Value 1000 sheet I bought at Walmart was the same diameter as what we used in the 60s. Didnt have to unroll any. The Scott 1000 or the Great Value 1000 dont channel.
Recommended that the TP be made of virgin paper, not recycled.
Those were the good old days working in a full service gas station. You say sir that oil needs to be changed.You put the car on the rack and take out the drain plug. Nothing comes out. You push a screw driver in and a couple of quarts come come out. You pour in some kerosene and run it for awhile probably causing more trouble. That's what the boss said to do.
Probably helped it out. I have an old motorcycle I fixed up, ran like crap no matter how much I tried to tune it up, accidentally left it sitting for a week with the fuel valve on and it drained into the oil. Replaced the oil and it ran better than before.
I hear you. One of.my kohler.engines needed a new fuel pump.Instead of.getting a correct pump on.it
I.put an electric pump on it. The float couldn't handle it.I got.a crankcase full of gasoline. One time in Idaho I was trying to start a International truck. I would.try the either and try to
Start it. After a few attempts it.started.Ran a second then exploded. Too much either in the crankcase. It must have been 20 below.. what if I had been doing that with my wife turning the engine. She might have been a widow.
Was talking about a series 60 425 HP Detroit. Road King magazine asked for the owners phone number. They did an article on the big Gulf Coast 0 2 and Rotella. Also an article on Amsoil and a Como filter. Turns out the Gulf.Coast filter needs 3 gallons of make up oil when changed. When the full flow filters are also changed its 5.5 gallons. That's equal to a full oil change every 40 thousand miles. That's how they keep the additives up to specs. Same as a Frantz only bigger. When I retired it was approaching a million miles with almost no wear. It was torn down and measured by Shell oil engineers about every 250 k miles. The used oil poured back in. One engineer said it's not unusual for these engines to go 1 million miles but not be in near new condition. A NASA engineer saw my posts and started using them. He said toilet paper is better than paper towels. That is true but big filters are better than small filters.
Where did you have yours installed?
Why didn't you clean the canister the filter (toilet paper) goes in? Looks to me that's where a lot of the debris would collect?
I wiped it out.
Red Poppy Ranch ok. I must have missed it.
Red Poppy Ranch I watched again and it sure doesn’t appear you wiped/cleaned it out. Maybe you edited that part out. Just thinking it would be a good idea to show that in case some people follow your video to the T.
I didn't wipe out the Frantz..Most of the contamination is in the paper. At a flea market I was challenged. A guy said I have something you can't filter out. He sold art supplies.he had some concentrated black coloring. I filtered it right out. I used it The rest of the day. When I changed the toilet paper the top half was black. The bottom half was white. I have used cement coloring stove black I have gone to art supply stores. One time I was showing how the filter worked compared to the full flow. I had gotten some black paint coloring from Kelly Moore in a liquid. When I started going thru the full flow filter the oil was coming out clear. That was embarrassing. The coloring wasn't compatible with the oil.It started bunching up and being filtered out. I unplugged the machine put it in the trunk.
Oh yes I forgot. The Frantz is up side down. May be a little sludge.Probably not. I always managed to put the Frantz upright on the diesels. Many years ago I saw the little Frantz on a over the road truck. It was upright. I said isn't the Frantz a little small. He said no I change it every day.
It may be better at filtering, however without changing the oil, your losing viscosity that isn't being replenished. Otherwise you will end up with oil that has a viscosity of water and your bearings will fail. If you have a tired out high mileage engine, its recommended to use a slightly thicker oil than the manufacturer advises. Cars 50 years ago were only meant to last 100k. Now we have vehicles going 300k. Please, please, please change your oil!
WatchMeWrench I love how there are more and more people pushing all these "snake oil" type products that usually have minimal results, all geared to separate your money from your wallet. Oh well, I see an engine replacement in his future.
People follow manufacturers maintenance schedules. It's there for a reason.
What car from 2017 is going 300k miles? Everything older is what lasts 300k. Now days they make stuff to only last 100k...
Teen Mechanic
Sorry, but no. Engine and lubricant technology has improved gradually over time, so engines run cooler and last longer. Cars made 30 years ago did not last 300k.
Charlie Smith these are the same manufacturers that engineer everything to fail nowdays so forgive me if I don't trust a damn word they say. With oil analysis, you can run 20,000 miles or more between changes.
Put a Frantz on my bosses 63 Chevy Suburban with the 292 big 6.He pulled a race car with it.That was about 64 . He complained his oil doesn't look as clear as mine.I called Frantz. I was using Chevron Delo 100. He was using Chevron Special. Frantz told me the special had a ashless additive that turned dark.Drain the Special and put in Delo 100. Against my advice he used 20 wt instead of 30 wt. At 350k the engine was still going strong.I used the adapter from Frantz that eliminated the full flow filter. Multi grade oils were no good in those days. The Delo 100 was never drained.
Dont'cha have to remove the cardboard toilet paper core before installing the roll?
A few years ago someone saw my posts and asked for a propaganda package. It was a NASA engineer. Then he wanted me to come to Canaveral.I realized I was getting in over my head.I called Gulf Coast Filters and turned it over to them. Gulf Coast could put them in touch with their big customers such as the military Shell and Chevron. Not trying to cut in on Frantz. These.big companies use the big paper towel filters mostly. I don't sell any more. I have no knowledge on how to equip an off shore rig or the monster that moves a apace shuttle.I did learn some things such as new oil isn't always clean. Shell engineers were studying a Peter Bilt with no oil drains with Shell Rotella . someone forgot to tell the mechanic that changed the Bounty Big rolls.not to drain the oil. The Detroit was in near new condition.with one oil drain in near 1 million miles. Its not unusual for these engines to go a million miles bit not be in near new condition.
I just bought a 16 pack of Great Value 1000 toilet paper at Wal Mart. It has the 1 1/2" core.
This explains the great toilet paper shortage of 2020.
is this the same as a oil catch can? Also can be used for petrol vehicles?
No.
Am I the only one around here that is old enough to remember the. FAA and. PMA approved AeroFrantz. They used 2 ply facial quality bathroom tissue..There were no Frantz elements in those days. Saw some on crop dusters about 50 years ago. Saw oil analysis reports on Cessna 182 Skylane. Virtually the same as that filter but I think the clamp had a bolt in it
No.all of aircraft didnt crash because the toilet paper clogged.up the engines .
That's the best filter every
What's the milage on that oil ????? It looks terrible .
Still have this system on the truck?
Went down to Wal Mart today and bought a big package of Great Value 1000 sheet.I have 8 toilet paper filters. Been using the Scott 1000. I think the Great Value will do fine. The Angel Soft looked good. The Frantz elements are better but I am a tight wad.
In the old days many engines had so many large particles in the oil there would be danger of the orifice clogging if at the inlet. I like to put the orifice at the inlet. Haven't had a problem with moderns engines. I try to put the orifice at the source keeps the oil pressure out of the filter and hoses.
If these worked every vehicle would have them. Every trucking company would sure as hell use them.
I've heard that a lot. How about if they eliminated routine oil changes Jiffy lube would sell them
Cummins claimed an 80% increase in engine life using their big 750 oil filters. You dont see the Luberfine 750 or the Cummins 750 much any more. Some used cotton and some used pulverized newspapers. On over the road trucks some were chrome plated. Some had Peter Bilt on them. I worked for a company that had luberfiners on everything. People got ignorant and started thinking the filters were only for dirty conditions such as dump trucks. The last I bought were Cummins Fleetguard 750s that I got from a International dealer. The Gulf Coast filters have a better design. The dirty oil has to travel thru 22 inches on the double roll filter. They might still have the chrome models. The last information I read on the Cummins Fleet Guards is at least 30 years old.
I'd use toilet paper with aloe vera as it's far more soothing for your engine. 😉
There is a trucking company just down the road from me at Alvord Tx
They don't drain oil in the big engines. They have engines that have over a million miles with no oil drains with the same engine parts. They change the big filters and add make up.oil. They spend money on an oil analysis program I don't spend money on oil analysis. My 40 year old.Ford isn't worth it. Google Gulf Coast Filters. The Ford 7.3 with the Frantz is the same system. Most. Of the owners with the little filters.don't change them often enough to keep the oil as clean as the truckers. Changing the filter every 5k might not be enough. It wouldn't be enough for my old 6.9.
If someone can look at pleated paper and a roll of toilet paper and can't understand which cleans oil and which filters fast probably shouldn't have one. It also takes some mechanical ability to install a bypass filter.
Transmissions run on friction. ATF can be loaded with contaminants. I thought I invented using toilet paper to clean ATF. On my Dynaflow Buick I tapped into the high accumulator .for pressure and returned the clean fluid to the oil pan. Found out later Frantz users had been doing it for years. Was at a oil change place waiting for a safety sticker. They were pushing transmission flushes. The best thing to flush a transmission with is clean ATF. Of course ATF always looks clean unless it has been overheated. Looks are deceiving.
I find it hard to believe that the toilet paper fibers aren't breaking off and going into your motor. Would be interesting to see if the main filters has cellulose fiber in it.
The toilet paper never breaks down.
@@RedPoppyRanch the cellulose may not break down but if you take a roll of toilet paper and tap it on a glass table you will see fibers floating around. I can definitely see how the till can be a pretty good filter I'm just worried at the back end of the filter letting some fibers loose.
Dune Buggies and Hot VWs did a test on the Motor Guard oil filter in the 60s They put an inline pleated paper fuel filter in the return line to the engine.of course paper fibers can't get thru pleated paper.They cut open the fuel filter looking for paper fibers and found none. They did a nice article on them. They were popular on the Baja race cars.Dick Cepec tires sold them for off road use. They used 2 ply facial quality toilet paper. They only make compressed air filters now.
I have seen the pleated paper break down in a full flow filter. .It is rare but it is caused by neglect. When I change my toilet paper I can tear it off at each sheet paper gets very strong in oil.
I've used the toilet paper filters since 1963 starting with the Frantz. I have a habit of cutting open full flow filters checking to see what is in the pleats. Never saw any toilet paper fibers. If I had concern about toilet paper getting in the oil I would invest in a metal inline fuel filter toilet paper fibers cannot get thru a inline fuel filter The FAA and PMA approved AeroFrantz used 2 ply facial quality toilet paper.
What happened to never change your oil I promise, that oil looks like a moonless night. Change your oil people
it is truly crazy if one doesnt change his engine oil ever. they will sell grease after their engine seize up.
Amir Danial its diesel as soon as you change it it will be black but i would never use toilet paper as a oil filter
Used these filters on diesel engines for over 30 years when I bought a diesel Peugeot. I want to see a shiny black. Not grey black. On a diesel engine I would use a less expensive proven oil like Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo. I would change the filter more often than a Frantz dealer would recommend. Black doesn't mean dirty. Black is beautiful. Put some on the palm. If soot fills up the crevices in the skin and won't wipe off its dirty. If you don't want to change the filter often buy a gasoline engine.
It is risky to tell someone they will never need to change the oil again. The engine might develop a anti freeze leak in the oil. When you are changing the filter and adding a qt of oil you are keeping the oil clean plus you are adding enough new oil to keep the additive package up. That's why I change the filter more often in a diesel engine. Also additives last a lot lomger in analytically clean oil. This isn't complicated.
I have a habit of saying no more oil changes. It is better to say no more oil drains. When I installed the Frantz on my nearly new 64 Rambler I didn't drain my oil again. I was changing the toilet paper and adding a quart of Chevron Delo every 2000 miles. It was a lot dirtier than my Altima which gets a new quart of oil every 6000 miles approx. The truckers that have the big 2 roll bounty big roll filters add about 2 gallons of new oil at filter change.
did you remove the center paper tube???
Nope.
All of these filters including the big paper towel filters filter from top to bottom dont go thru the core. I have some very old Motor Guards that filtered from the bottom up.
One reason Frantz went belly up is we didn't have the internet. An example is I mostly sold them at flea.markets.You have to go thru a lot.of people to find one.that understands what the hell you are. Talking about. Motor.Guard gave up on oil filters and went to compressed air filters. There are people out there that understand what you are talking.about Frantz is reaching them now.
IS THIS FRANTZ KIT OIL FILTER IS ONLY FOR PICKUP TRUCK ? CAN IT BE INSTALL IN A CAR?
car, truck, tractor etc.
THANK YOU
I have seen a couple of cars over the years that I couldn't find a place to mount one. My Altima has bypass filters for the ATF and Motor oil.To change them I have to remove the grill. I am a clean oil fanatic. I would put them on the top of the hood if I had to.on my 64 Rambler I had the Frantz on the fender with clear plastic oil lines. Was selling them.
Both of my lawn tractors have them. I used Frantz Ford adapters and Ford full flow filters. I returned the clean oil to the drain port.
@@ralphwood5114 The old Frantz 2 port sandwich adapters were handy on some cars. Didnt work so well on small engines. They depended on a pressure differential thru the adapter. For the lawn mowers I convert the 2 ports to a 1 port. The Frantz 2 ports are getting scarce.
A customer had a problem with a Frantz oil cleaner. He tried to change it with the engine running. The filter Hit the roof of his garage.He had oil all over the car and garage. He wasn't happy.
ralph wood unless there's an isolation valve why open it with the engine running?
Never heard of anyone removing an oem oil filter with the engine on, it's the same here.
There are people that might crawl up under a car with the engine running and try to remove the full flow filter.
Correction the Frantz hit the hood. He had oil everywhere. I assumed he forgot to turn off the engine before he opened the over center clamp.
all yall are crazy to use material that disintegrates in water and use it filter your engine oil. its designed to disintegrate.
Cam Cam toilet paper doesn't disintegrate in oil.
@@bigchevy80 - EXACTLY, although my guess is that fluid erosion might take its toll on the much finer toilet roll paper over time. The cheaper paper, SOME of it anyway, is thicker and tougher.
I'm not aware of any paper that dissolves in oil. You can take the used roll out and unroll it It will tear at each sheet. The element is removing the water and acid with it. You will know when you have left in too long. The paper won't be as strong. If you allow the element to reach its capacity the acid will start working on the pleated paper in the full flow filter. Some think they can wait until the element has reached its capacity. Not a good idea.
Had a genius say that toilet paper breaks down in a septic tank. Not if the septic tank is full of oil.
I have been known to use toilet paper on the coolant.some use toilet paper as a water filter before the expensive activated carbon.water filter on marine vessels. Some toilet paper holds up pretty good when sealed in a filter housing. In a engine the oil protects the paper.. if the paper gets soggy.or gets cracks in it you have water in the oil. Could be coolant or not running at normal operating temperature.
Seen one turned on a lathe and fitted to an HQ Holden in 1985, the idea went bad when the manufacturers changed the size of the toilet roll core.
When Frantz went broke years ago a Frantz dealer improved on the filters. His design doesnt require a tight seal at the core. You push the roll down against a superior seal.I think the tube is 1 3/8. They are top loaders. The famous Frantz 3 stackers were replaced with paper towel filters. The toilet paper filters may not be in production now. That was the Gulf Coast juniors. Still a few Frantz 3 stackers on shrimp boats and such. They are all trying to get away from the words toilet paper filters. It's probably too late. Too many lies and bull shit stories come with toilet paper. Also most people think oil is supposed to get dirty and be drained.
Trying to reinvent the wheel, , no thanks. I dont need to save .05 and risk collapse of the toilet paper. How much does all that Frantz stuff cost PLUS the cost of their "superior" oil
You keep saying 1000 ply but I'm sure you mean sheets or something because like 2 ply is pretty normal I don't know that I have seen more than 4 ply and I'm not real sure I have seen that and are you supposed to leave the cardboard
i was trying to figure out the same thing. I was like 1000 ply? whatchu talkin bout willis?
Its Scott 1000 sheet 1ply. Thats what I have used. I was talking to one of my customers that has over 500 K on his Toyota Corolla wagon. 400 K WITH the Frantz. He told me on an outing the boy scouts got into his Frantz elements.
The core stays in the oil filters from top to bottom
I'm not sure why someone would go with TP when their synthetic media filters are $10.00