Greetings to all the Woodsmith shop workers, I sure enjoy watching your illustration videos. Your project plans are easy and simple to follow. I admired your skillful talents. I used to do a lot of woodworking for over 30 yrs. Guys, keep up with the good work. 👍🙂
Really liked the overall quality of the unit ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . No, it's not a professional level drill press. I bought this product for one reason and one reason only: it adds value to a product I already have (a dremel tool).I was able to use this tool to secure my dremel. Dremel owners and users probably can sympathize that often holding your oddly shaped (and sometimes fragile) workpiece and the dremel at the same time can be cumbersome. This completely eliminates the need to hold the dremel, which is a huge overall improvement to control.I would consider this a must have for anyone who regularly uses a dremel.
This is the best functional Drill Press Table tutorial I have seen. I am very impressed. It is is very lucidly put and the instructions are immaculate, the comments short and to the point. Thank you for the free plans. Great work and keep it up!!!!!
Rather than mess around with contact cement and the smelly, flammable, toxic solvent I would fasten the hardboard down with a pattern of countersunk brass wood screws. This will also allow the side panels to be replaced.
You might want to consider Super 77 by 3M. I used to work at installing pool tables, and we would spray that stuff on the slate to attach the felt to the table. Never had a complaint about the smell. It's sticking strength is incredible too.
I have to add a comment about installing threaded inserts. By the way this is Garry not Linda. The slot on one end of a thread insert is NOT for installing with a screwdriver. The slot functions as a lead thread on a conventional tap to assist in correctly sizing the hole for the thread. Using a screwdriver to attempt to install an insert doesn't work especially the brass inserts used in the video especially into hardwood or hardwood plywood they will not go in straight and the slots will strip out long before the insert is fully seated. Use the method shown in the video and you'll have no problem at all.
so i am just getting or trying to get into some woodworking (watched shows all my life and done a lot of rough construction). watched several videos on expanding my drill press table from the cast iron from stock. as mentioned below about the table crank hitting the new table (and as seen or mentioned in other videos).. instead of notching out the table.. why not add a 1x2 or even a 2x2 under the new table (or even using another sheet or 2 of 3/4 ply), no bigger then the cast iron table to lift it a bit (it's something i haven't seen done in any of the videos i have come across)? this should give extra clearance for the crank.
Yeah, propping the table up a little would definitely work to add handle clearance. I shot a video about a year ago on a drill press table where we transferred the crank and lock handles to outside of the drill press table. I think it is a pretty clever design, and you can watch that video here: ua-cam.com/video/3_cQcHMz7UU/v-deo.html Right now I'm shooting a video on making this Woodworking Drill Press Table: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/woodworking-drill-press-table/ It has a drawer underneath the table which adds storage and dust collection but also props up the table enough to give plenty of clearance for the crank.
really like that nee table with the drawer as well! looks like something i could probably build with the tools i have today. might have to take a stab at that!
A suggested improvement: You do a professional video. I find that the drill press lowering handle sometimes hits my fence, keeping me from a full-depth hole with the fence in place. Adding a notch to clear the handle is a simple improvement.
Great video, excellent solutions. I have a Ryobi drill press and made a table for it. The handles hit the fence so I removed 2 handles, works very well. The crank idea is worth exploring further. Thank you. Peter 🇦🇺
good project... I don't understand why you would want a pivotal fence also you could have edited this by 15 minutes if you eliminated a lot of the unnecessary explanatory chit-chat.
Lol, we can’t take too much credit for the tidiness. This shop is mostly used as the video studio for our PBS TV show, so we are not allowed to get it too messy... our personal shops are another story. 😬
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine Figured that... maybe half a bucket of sawdust spread around, an electrical lead it two on the floor it will clean up quick an easy when you're done. On a house build we would leave a skirting nail proud for the inspector to tag... took 2 mins to fix and stop him checking with mirror to see if we painted under doors! Haha
Confession..am using Covid 19 to clean/set up my workshop after 25yrs...fitting sawdust ducting and set bays for drop saw, bandsaw,drill stand, sander...today (7am Australia) will do your drill bench set up lovit...
Why bother to lock down the table with a wrench? Why not just use wing nuts with lockwashers so you can get it on or off quickly, but it won't vibrate loose? I see no reason/benefit for wrenching it down tight. Hand tight -- esp. with lockwashers -- should be more than sufficient for the possible torques I see this taking on.
Great idea, waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too many words. First you tell me why you're gonna do it, then tell me what you gonna do even though I've already read the title which is why I clicked on the video, then you tell me what you're doing and why you're doing it AGAIN while you do it, then again you tell me what you did and again why and how you did it after you've already done it! Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too many words.
You should still be able to use the crank in the back with this table installed, but if you're looking for some innovation on raising and lowering the drill press table, check this one out: ua-cam.com/video/3_cQcHMz7UU/v-deo.html
Great vid, made this but rather than the sliding centre piece I made several wooden disc 5 " dia and set them in a counterbored hole, they can be cut by the dozen easily with a hole cutter that matches the counterbore. they have never fallen out in use. I still tend to use a sacrificial board as old habits die hard.
Maybe a little too slow at times? i made the same table and fence in real time and still had 5 mins of this vid left to watch HAHA! No seriously though, was a good informative video! thanks Woodsmith.
Superb video. May I suggest: no need to waste wood and double sided tape on backing when cutting the slot. Just go half way through from each side by flipping it over.
So what can you do when you have a great drill press body, 65mm pillar & base collar but no motor (I have one ready to go on) no motor pagoda pulley (not much of a problem - available on eBay) BUT crucially NO TABLE & NO cast base. The latter I can probably get away without by using a 50mm thick plywood base attached to my bench, but to me the lack of a table is a major showstopper, especially as I will need it for BOTH wood & metalwork. I have searched online everywhere but to no avail. I can't find ANYONE who sells cast iron tables for a 65 mm pillar. One ideally able to be fitted with an after market rack to fit the pillar and preferably a second hand one, even a broken one, depending on the failure mode. Any suggestions? I'm in the UK so transportation costs are going to be a large part of the cost. Is it likely that for woodwork at least I could get away with making one out of 40-50 mm ply? Any references to online designs? TIA
I find using the insert as the spacer you have a greater chance of the outside pieces slipping up because of the bevel on it and I also don't want to risk accidentally gluing it in place.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine BUT, you could use it to mark the edges, and not have to make a flipping guess on how far to tape it. You're making it harder than need be to do things.
Excellent video start to finish. Beautiful production, and all of the steps are clearly explained and demonstrated. This fence is exactly what I need for my hobby shop. Thanks for the great content!! Subscribed.
The problem with this design is that the base of the fence is very wide, which results in a reduced space between the face of the fence and the drill bit. I recently designed and made something similar for a particular project and I needed to be able to drill a line of holes across the centre of my workpiece, for which I had to have a fence no wider than about 15 mm. To make this possible, I used a larger table and cut a slot in the centre of its back for the drill press support pillar to fit into. That way, I was able to extend the table back past the support pillar. I then used a two part base for the fence, with the centre bit "missing". That meant that at the pillar, the fence only needed the width of the front section since there was no base part there. This gave me an extra 50 mm (2") of workspace compared to the design in the video. Yes, such a design results in a weaker fence, but in this application, there are no great forces involved, so it's fine. However, if you're concerned about the rigidity of the fence, you can always go for a half-way house, and instead, just have a notch in the base. Another option that I haven't implemented is to put the fence along one side of the table instead of at the back. Then the space between the fence and the drill bit can be as large as you care to make the table, albeit at a cost of a reduced length of the possible line of holes. Another thing I did differently in my version was to join the face of the fence to the base part in such a way that the face was raised slightly above the table. This means that any wood shavings or dust that fall down between the workpiece and the fence can slide under the fence instead of stopping the workpiece from properly touching the fence. (This is standard practice on router and table saw fences.) Finally, one thing I did on mine was to drill a hole in area of the table behind the fence to drop the drill chuck into. That way, the chuck doesn't get lost.
This is GREAT....Simple, don't need a laser (.....), can Easily get the materials needed. And most importantly the power machines needed are what most of us have.....rip saw, router, and my new drill press. Only One question....how do you make bevel cuts on hardboard?? Thanks for your time.
We made the bevel cuts at the table saw with the blade tilted to the correct angle, but you could probably do it at the router table with a chamfer bit too.
Superb video, but at 19:19 I'm having visions of that push-block tipping over just as the hand is next to the blade - I've seen the results of that and it's not pretty... 🥴
Professionally made and presented howto, congratulations. I mostly work with metal and the same issue of a chewed out spot occurs. Your design has features I definitely want to include, I simply need to seal the ply effectively or make the replaceable strip from aluminium the same thickness. Thank you for sharing.
A great video with some bizarre content. 26 mins in you mention a trammel for the first time and say it is something easily created. To be honest, creating a good trammel is probably harder than creating the table attachment for the drill press. Also, you must have the most clinically clean workshop on the planet. I can’t see any dust anywhere.
Your whole process is overcomplicated. Take away the two outer Masonite. Lay the center insert in places. Square it up. Draw a line on the outer edges of the center insert. Remove and tape and glue as you did.
There is one problem with the swinging fence. If you are drilling a long piece of stock and the wall behind gets in the way, because you have the fence angled towards it.
For safety, Never have your hands crossing the body centre line. So Never hold the handle of the drill press, with your Right hand, and then hold a work piece with your left hand, on the right hand side of the cutting tool. Keep your left hand on the Left hand side of the cutting tool at all times, and the right hand on the right hand side of the cutting tool. Seems simple enough, but a lot of shop injuries are caused by the simple fact, that hands crossed over the centre line of the body and cutting tool.
Disappointing video for those of us who have a mild degree of experience. If you are a Newbie you may learn something but experienced users will find this video virtually useless. Thanks for your efforts guys, perhaps you should include the words 'for newbies ' in the title.
Yeah, I would agree that this project is probably for a beginning woodworker. This Drill Press Table is a little more advanced: ua-cam.com/video/3_cQcHMz7UU/v-deo.html and I recently produced a video series on making this woodworking drill press table: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/woodworking-drill-press-table/ Hopefully we will have that up soon.
Hi, Nice job and well presented. Two thoughts: 1. When routing the slot, I would have put a stopper block at the end hole so I didn't over / under shoot the routing of the hole. I find it easier than trying to eyeball my stopping point. 2. I notice you didn't check the fence was at right angles to the fence base. Your dado cutter loos pretty accurate but I would probably have run a set square across the fence while gluing / clamping it. We do a lot of projects where knowing the fence we are holding work against is at right angles to the table saves us a lot of grief. Again, nice job. My first view of your videos - I'm sure there will be more
Great points... I always like to use stops when routing slots, as well, for the reason you mentioned. It is also a good idea to check the fence for square when you are assembling it. Plus, I would check it for square from time to time after using it for a while to make sure something hasn't shifted. I've been burned a few times when I've assumed a fence was square only to find out later it wasn't :(
You can use that plywood spacer and clamps to press down the hardboard even better than the J roller. Clamp down, move along, clamp, move, etc. When routing that curved slot a scrap clamped to the base board would stop the router cutting too far. Only takes a moment and just makes life that bit easier. If you don't have a dado cutter, you can cut the rebate by making many passes with the table saw blade. Just move the job across in smaller steps.
This a a very handy table. I made it and have used for some time now. Do not let the simplicity of it fool you, it has become a permanent fixture in my shop. I would like to see some additional fixtures for the table saw and the router table. I always struggle getting picture frames built square and with a good fit. Maybe you have something that would help with that?
2 Suggestions (I'm a newbie so bear with me) !😊 1. I would think covering 99% of all the boards with glue is a waste, even if it is cheap. 50% coverage (all four corners and the middle should be more than enough I would think). 2. This is to give some clearance for the sacrificial board in the middle. Use the actual beveled sacrificial board for the glue-up and wrap some waxed paper or parchment paper (baking paper) around one or both sides of the sacrificial middle, then glue up the other side. Presto ! You know have a few thousands extra clearance for the sacrificial board to slidea freely.
Dan makes a great point. I would like to add two observations from the original articles thought about now going a cutting the insert to fit! With time and space being our issue, then so it’s going to make sense to already have the insert cut adding the wax-paper trick from Dan Cahill’s addition for saving our valuable time! Thank you for great service and support I will be creating my replacement top soon using all these great ideas!!
I've done partial glue coverage and regretted it. Glue across the whole surface or the thinner layer will bow upwards when the weather changes. It's especially bad with water based adhesives as used on floors. Personally I would use 6mm plywood for the top layer. It's more stable and will move with the base board. Hardboard expands and contracts far more than plywood. Best avoided. 1/4" or 6mm MDF would do but plywood is probably no more money. Also avoid MDF for the base board. It is tough, solid and cheap, but it creeps and sags over time. Anyone who has an Ikea chest of drawers will know how the top sags.
Great Job Guy's... Now, i need to go buy me some new lumber, and remove my old one and build one like this, Your swing arm moves the piece away from the back stop and removable center section puts this table up on the top shelf.nicely done... Nice video, See ya
I find that installing a couple pieces of wood for a slide-on guide and using a couple toggle clamps (like these: amazon.com/Accessbuy-Toggle-Clamps-Antislip-Release/dp/B0756DSLV3/) instead of installation bolts works very well and makes the table much quicker and easier to take on/off. If you never take it off it's a wash, but I switch back and forth from using my drill press for wood working as well as some light metal work with a press vice.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine You have a new fan. I'll spend the next few days watching the rest of your videos. That is a beautiful shop. I'm so jealous ! You must have a great cleaning lady come in every day!
A great top. The only issue with every plan I have seen is how to deal with the clearance needed to raise and lower the table with the gear and handle.
What the fuck does the movable end of the fence screw into? You show a plastic knob. is it a bolt, how does it hold the fence from moving? You didn't show the whole build.
Sorry if we did not explain that clearly. There is a carriage bolt that feeds up through the table into the knob. Also, it might be more clearly explained in the free plans. You can find the link in the description or right here: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/quick-and-easy-drill-press-table/
Why is the spray adhesive used in this video @18:09 not the same as the Amazon affiliate link in video description? Just want to be sure I'm ordering something that will work for sure.
The product used in the video, we got in bulk from an industrial supplier because we use quite a bit of it. The 3M product I linked to is essentially the same thing, but is more readily available to the diy consumers. I just recently used the 3M Hi-Strength 90 and and it worked great. You can probably get it at the local home center too.
The tip for inserting the threaded insert would also be a great way to guide a hand held drill on jobs where the drill press is not convenient. Also great for keeping a thread tap square.
Sometimes I think you guys are more interested in commercials, advertisements and viewers. This time that never entered my mind. I don’t even do wood work but I find these videos very interesting. The only thing I would have done on this video would be to use pencil marks to Line up the hard board when glueing and dropping it to the plywood
Great description and clear video work. Excellent step by step presentation and a great idea for a practical fence. Thank you very much. Neat idea for installing the threaded insert.
Why would you use contact cement? It dries out after about 6 months and falls off... it's meant to be permanent, so why not use wood glue? Thought in the name it says "cement" that stuff is actually an "adhesive". You know the difference between adhesives and cements, right? Adhesives need to retain moisture in order to keep up their tack... and that would present an issue for anything to do with wood. Now you said you added the 90 degree blocks to the back to make sure the fence was at 90... but you added them after clamping down the fence.... so- their uselessly after thoughts if that fence is out of alignment up to that point. So many low level mistakes in this build up. Who gave you guys this much high dollar equipment?
I am particularly impressed with the cabinet you have at the bottom of your floor-standing drill press. Is there a video on how you made that? It's exactly what I am planning to do with mine.
Okay... I have to admit I never realized that video speed was part of the UA-cam settings. That is awesome! I am going to be able watch videos twice as fast now.
An excellent and very clear video which I would have been proud of if I had done it myself. My hobby is making simple but perfect jigs. With a well made jig you can hand it to a chimpanzee and get him to do the work while you watch and have a whisky. John Leinz. U. K.
I have struggled for years wondering why a new drill press table which is substantially different from the last iteration always have to be built in demos like yours. Back fifteen years ago or more you built a remarkable drill press bench which I built. How ever I added dust collection on the table top without the need of vacuum hoses hanging attached in some awkward way. I built 6 inch round hardboard sacrificial backer boards for drilling clean holes on the bottom side. Some of the backer boards have centered 2, 3, 4 inch dia holes to accommodate sanding drums. The table slide left to right to use all of the area of the sacrificial backer boards before I use the backsides. I am grateful for the great drill press table you enabled me to build. Thanks.
That's great to hear... I'm glad that you were able to build one of our drill press tables that is still going strong after 15 years of service in your shop!
A cheap drill press commonly available is fine for drilling, but the chuck bearings are not built to take large side loads. It's not a milling machine. :) It would be far better to use the press to make a plywood drum sander case powered by a washing machine motor.
30:41 Bryan said *square* - but what he really wanted to say is *perpendicular* . 32:28 And now - ladies & gentlemen - in the next two or three hours, *Bryan* is gonna make a stopping block, for repeatable cuts of highest precision. No - seriously guys: that was a nice video. Thumbs up.
As woodworkers, we are so used to dealing with fences that must be square to a PLANE, such as a table saw rip fence or cross cut sled, that we forget that a drill press fence only needs to keep any given point on a work piece a set distance from a single point-- the chuck. This table design is a revelation in its simplicity. Thank you!
It was painful to watch once Brian Nelson came on with his schlurring... I made a table pretty much like this about 4-5 yrs ago but instead of wasting $ on unneeded inserts I just countersunk the bolts in the top.
I think MDF bottom is a cheaper option then Baltic burch plywood. But if you can find comerical grade cabnit shelf used in retail many of them are multi layers of plywood and partical board thats very stable and hold up nicely. Your working top will be the hardboard top, a trick for this is to make a 4x4" center drilling area Fix the back of the slide out to the plywood and only use the 4x4 area as change out space just bevel all 4 sides And the corresponding mating surfaces. The frt will slide out you change the center and put the frt back in this will make for less waste. This is a good starting point for any type of system you want to make even draws to hold drill bits and chuck keys in right at the drill press even your fostner bits.
The spray adhesive is best for wide areas, where you have flat surfaces to glue, whereas the wood glue is effective for the narrow connections after clamping
This isn't a critique. More or less just me thinking out loud and maybe get some feedback from others. I do like the overall design and am going to give it a go. Not understanding why you bother beveling the slot for the sacrificial piece? Yes I get the "reasoning" however with the bevel you can't flip to use the other side. Without the bevel that wouldn't be a problem. All the force on the drill press is downward so it doesn't matter if its not "locked in". You shouldn't drill through the hard board if you stop once you are through the work piece. If you can flip it you would cut the times you need to replace it in half. I would think the fence and gravity and the work piece would do a good enough job keeping it from lifting. Also without the bevels making replacements would only take seconds if you use the old one to set your table saw fence. Again I do like the design and I think this is going to be my solution. Thanks for sharing and the free plans!
Great, but every time I watch these videos and want to make a "simple" jig I find I need either tools or jigs I don't have in order to make a "simple" jig
LOL... It is kind of frustrating paradox. We are actually trying to show using more hand tools in the future as well, so hopefully we can show some simple solutions too.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine it would definitely help and be very much appreciated cause I have epilepsy which would certainly make a table saw out of the question so blade facing down is a much more safer option for me love the vids, keep them coming
Yeah, I've heard that in the past regarding threaded inserts, but I don't know if that is the case in this particular model. The slot in the body of the insert doesn't go out to the edge of the threads, so I'm not sure it would really help that much in cutting the threads in the wood. Maybe though.
Why are drill press tables the only upgrade ever considered in these videos? I have two drill presses and have made many upgrades. But I have no plans for a larger table. Well, after watching, perhaps I may make one someday. But I do both wood and metal work so I would make it easier to remove and remount.
I put the centre strip in as i glued but protected the centre area under the bevel by wrapping the centre in waxed paper taped tightly around it in place. I’m a big fan of making all my own glues and finishes so i use a controllable hide glue recipe. Then slide out the centre and peel the wax paper off...i use a Danish soap wax to protect the insert guides from wear....it works for me...🥴
I like the dovetail slot for the sacrifice board. I did this to the fence on my route so I could install zero clearance inserts. I made up a number of insert blanks at the same time. When ready to profile the insert I first set route bit to proper height then pivot the fence through the cutter. This insert also becomes a perfect height setup guide the next time you need this profile.
Great build! Just wish we could get decent plywood here in South Africa - quality is very poor compared to what you have available in US and Europe... Just to confirm, you turned your tablesaw blade to 45 degrees to cut the bevels? Secondly, your tablesaw fence, was that DIY build? What was the white material used? Looking forward to future videos..
It looks like we used a 30 degree bevel on the insert. The table saw fence is the stock fence that came with the table saw - the faces are made from UHMW plastic.
markforrestsm Can you have plywood shipped from one of the online vendors? WoodworkersSource.com or even Amazon.com? I'm sure the shipping would be expensive but for jigs and shop accessories might be worth it.
Hi Markforrestsm, I feel exactly the same here in Australia each time I see the perfect ply people are using in the video clips. Here in Australia your choices are an external hardwood ply with A bond and BC faces or at almost double the price you can get marine ply with A bond and AA faces some is Hoop pine but much is an Asian word that is a dark red colour.. I have found a supplier of birch ply but it is approaching Au$300 a sheet. All the best
Ouch! Our "marine ply", in my opinion, is still sub-standard. No-one I've asked has even considered importing birch or maple ply and if they did, it would be so expensive.. Shit happens, I guess :-).... At 3:25, I'm salivating looking at their ply.... All the best to you too
![⚡[DIY] Just the perfect drill press table / woodworking](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zBrgcXnROHQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![⚡[DIY] Just the perfect drill press table / woodworking](/img/tr.png)
Greetings to all the Woodsmith shop workers, I sure enjoy watching your illustration videos. Your project plans are easy and
simple to follow. I admired your skillful talents. I used to do a lot of woodworking for over 30 yrs. Guys, keep up with the
good work. 👍🙂
Really liked the overall quality of the unit ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . No, it's not a professional level drill press. I bought this product for one reason and one reason only: it adds value to a product I already have (a dremel tool).I was able to use this tool to secure my dremel. Dremel owners and users probably can sympathize that often holding your oddly shaped (and sometimes fragile) workpiece and the dremel at the same time can be cumbersome. This completely eliminates the need to hold the dremel, which is a huge overall improvement to control.I would consider this a must have for anyone who regularly uses a dremel.
This is the best functional Drill Press Table tutorial I have seen. I am very impressed. It is is very lucidly put and the instructions are immaculate, the comments short and to the point. Thank you for the free plans. Great work and keep it up!!!!!
Thanks for the kind words... We''ll keep the videos coming!
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine my dad would love your videos. I really enjoy them,also.
These men are a class act!
Thanks!
You got a thumbs up for the threaded insert install tip!
Thanks!
I loved the insert setter. Thanks
Rather than mess around with contact cement and the smelly, flammable, toxic solvent I would fasten the hardboard down with a pattern of countersunk brass wood screws. This will also allow the side panels to be replaced.
That would absolutely work too. Great idea - thanks for the input!
You might want to consider Super 77 by 3M. I used to work at installing pool tables, and we would spray that stuff on the slate to attach the felt to the table. Never had a complaint about the smell. It's sticking strength is incredible too.
I Like it I am very impressed
Great my friend. Thank so much!
Thanks the kind words. :)
Thanks! So easy! and practical.
Well when can you make me one?
I have to add a comment about installing threaded inserts. By the way this is Garry not Linda. The slot on one end of a thread insert is NOT for installing with a screwdriver. The slot functions as a lead thread on a conventional tap to assist in correctly sizing the hole for the thread. Using a screwdriver to attempt to install an insert doesn't work especially the brass inserts used in the video especially into hardwood or hardwood plywood they will not go in straight and the slots will strip out long before the insert is fully seated. Use the method shown in the video and you'll have no problem at all.
Linda Elfstrand Hi Garry I noticed the same thing!🤣🛫
In the first video, why not use the actual center insert as your spacer? Then, there's no guesswork about where the tape goes.
so i am just getting or trying to get into some woodworking (watched shows all my life and done a lot of rough construction). watched several videos on expanding my drill press table from the cast iron from stock.
as mentioned below about the table crank hitting the new table (and as seen or mentioned in other videos).. instead of notching out the table.. why not add a 1x2 or even a 2x2 under the new table (or even using another sheet or 2 of 3/4 ply), no bigger then the cast iron table to lift it a bit (it's something i haven't seen done in any of the videos i have come across)? this should give extra clearance for the crank.
Yeah, propping the table up a little would definitely work to add handle clearance. I shot a video about a year ago on a drill press table where we transferred the crank and lock handles to outside of the drill press table. I think it is a pretty clever design, and you can watch that video here: ua-cam.com/video/3_cQcHMz7UU/v-deo.html
Right now I'm shooting a video on making this Woodworking Drill Press Table: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/woodworking-drill-press-table/ It has a drawer underneath the table which adds storage and dust collection but also props up the table enough to give plenty of clearance for the crank.
that is a pretty slick idea as well!
really like that nee table with the drawer as well! looks like something i could probably build with the tools i have today. might have to take a stab at that!
A suggested improvement: You do a professional video. I find that the drill press lowering handle sometimes hits my fence, keeping me from a full-depth hole with the fence in place. Adding a notch to clear the handle is a simple improvement.
Yeah, I had this problem the other day too. I ended up just taking off 1 of the handles for the time being.
Woodsmith have you ever considered a crank in stead of the three handles so you didn’t have to change your grip when lowering/ raising the bit?
@@bobbystanley8580 - I hadn't considered that... sounds interesting. I'll look in to it.
Woodsmith just like the one for the table adjustment....
Great video, excellent solutions. I have a Ryobi drill press and made a table for it. The handles hit the fence so I removed 2 handles, works very well. The crank idea is worth exploring further. Thank you. Peter 🇦🇺
why not use the middle piece of hardwood for position of the masking tape ?? why cut a piece of plywood for that purpose ???
Where's the video on how to hide the wood scraps you want to keep from She Who Must Be Obeyed??? I need it, FAST!!!
LOL... If we made a video then we run the risk of our secrets falling into the “enemies” hands. :)
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine hahaha!!!
Padlock on shed door with spare key hidden away. :)
good project... I don't understand why you would want a pivotal fence also you could have edited this by 15 minutes if you eliminated a lot of the unnecessary explanatory chit-chat.
Your workshop is too clean...you guys are of a different species to the rest of us
Lol, we can’t take too much credit for the tidiness. This shop is mostly used as the video studio for our PBS TV show, so we are not allowed to get it too messy... our personal shops are another story. 😬
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine Figured that... maybe half a bucket of sawdust spread around, an electrical lead it two on the floor it will clean up quick an easy when you're done. On a house build we would leave a skirting nail proud for the inspector to tag... took 2 mins to fix and stop him checking with mirror to see if we painted under doors! Haha
Confession..am using Covid 19 to clean/set up my workshop after 25yrs...fitting sawdust ducting and set bays for drop saw, bandsaw,drill stand, sander...today (7am Australia) will do your drill bench set up lovit...
Why bother to lock down the table with a wrench? Why not just use wing nuts with lockwashers so you can get it on or off quickly, but it won't vibrate loose? I see no reason/benefit for wrenching it down tight. Hand tight -- esp. with lockwashers -- should be more than sufficient for the possible torques I see this taking on.
I agree with you... I actually normally just use a couple of those black plastic threaded knobs to attach the table, but to each their own. :)
Great idea, waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too many words. First you tell me why you're gonna do it, then tell me what you gonna do even though I've already read the title which is why I clicked on the video, then you tell me what you're doing and why you're doing it AGAIN while you do it, then again you tell me what you did and again why and how you did it after you've already done it! Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too many words.
TLDNR ;)
lolol wtf geee just makin a fckin hole n shit , my god all that fancy base n shit just to cut holes - i just grab old peice of plywood n done
LOL... well that is one way to get the job done. :) I guess you'd really hate this drill press table then: ua-cam.com/video/3_cQcHMz7UU/v-deo.html
I see you still have not come up with a graceful solution for adjusting the table height with the table installed.
You should still be able to use the crank in the back with this table installed, but if you're looking for some innovation on raising and lowering the drill press table, check this one out: ua-cam.com/video/3_cQcHMz7UU/v-deo.html
What is that knob on the pivot end of the fence for? That point is fixed. A waste of time to loosen tighten the second knob.
The knob at the pivot point is just there for ease of taking the fence off if needed. Otherwise, you could just replace that knob with a regular nut.
Great vid, made this but rather than the sliding centre piece I made several wooden disc 5 " dia and set them in a counterbored hole, they can be cut by the dozen easily with a hole cutter that matches the counterbore. they have never fallen out in use. I still tend to use a sacrificial board as old habits die hard.
how do you stop the thru bolt on the underside of the the fence from turning along with the knob on top?
The small "square" portion of the carriage bolt's shaft just below the head fits pretty nicely into the slot and keeps it from spinning.
Great video!!! No terrible back round music , slow enough to keep up , Bravo!!!
Maybe a little too slow at times?
i made the same table and fence in real time and still had 5 mins of this vid left to watch HAHA!
No seriously though, was a good informative video! thanks Woodsmith.
I agree completely
that scrap of plywood probly costs about $100 right now.
True…. I’d be willing to sell my scrap of plywood for $50 though. 😀
I would round the front corners of the table top.
Superb video. May I suggest: no need to waste wood and double sided tape on backing when cutting the slot. Just go half way through from each side by flipping it over.
Thanks for the tip. 👍
So what can you do when you have a great drill press body, 65mm pillar & base collar but no motor (I have one ready to go on) no motor pagoda pulley (not much of a problem - available on eBay) BUT crucially NO TABLE & NO cast base.
The latter I can probably get away without by using a 50mm thick plywood base attached to my bench, but to me the lack of a table is a major showstopper, especially as I will need it for BOTH wood & metalwork.
I have searched online everywhere but to no avail. I can't find ANYONE who sells cast iron tables for a 65 mm pillar. One ideally able to be fitted with an after market rack to fit the pillar and preferably a second hand one, even a broken one, depending on the failure mode.
Any suggestions? I'm in the UK so transportation costs are going to be a large part of the cost.
Is it likely that for woodwork at least I could get away with making one out of 40-50 mm ply? Any references to online designs? TIA
Really good video. Another option for the threaded insert installation block is to just use the drill press chuck.
Why not use the insert itself as the spacer?
I find using the insert as the spacer you have a greater chance of the outside pieces slipping up because of the bevel on it and I also don't want to risk accidentally gluing it in place.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine BUT, you could use it to mark the edges, and not have to make a flipping guess on how far to tape it. You're making it harder than need be to do things.
Excellent video start to finish. Beautiful production, and all of the steps are clearly explained and demonstrated. This fence is exactly what I need for my hobby shop. Thanks for the great content!! Subscribed.
The problem with this design is that the base of the fence is very wide, which results in a reduced space between the face of the fence and the drill bit. I recently designed and made something similar for a particular project and I needed to be able to drill a line of holes across the centre of my workpiece, for which I had to have a fence no wider than about 15 mm.
To make this possible, I used a larger table and cut a slot in the centre of its back for the drill press support pillar to fit into. That way, I was able to extend the table back past the support pillar. I then used a two part base for the fence, with the centre bit "missing". That meant that at the pillar, the fence only needed the width of the front section since there was no base part there. This gave me an extra 50 mm (2") of workspace compared to the design in the video. Yes, such a design results in a weaker fence, but in this application, there are no great forces involved, so it's fine. However, if you're concerned about the rigidity of the fence, you can always go for a half-way house, and instead, just have a notch in the base.
Another option that I haven't implemented is to put the fence along one side of the table instead of at the back. Then the space between the fence and the drill bit can be as large as you care to make the table, albeit at a cost of a reduced length of the possible line of holes.
Another thing I did differently in my version was to join the face of the fence to the base part in such a way that the face was raised slightly above the table. This means that any wood shavings or dust that fall down between the workpiece and the fence can slide under the fence instead of stopping the workpiece from properly touching the fence. (This is standard practice on router and table saw fences.)
Finally, one thing I did on mine was to drill a hole in area of the table behind the fence to drop the drill chuck into. That way, the chuck doesn't get lost.
This is GREAT....Simple, don't need a laser (.....), can Easily get the materials needed. And most importantly the power machines needed are what most of us have.....rip saw, router, and my new drill press.
Only One question....how do you make bevel cuts on hardboard?? Thanks for your time.
We made the bevel cuts at the table saw with the blade tilted to the correct angle, but you could probably do it at the router table with a chamfer bit too.
Superb video, but at 19:19 I'm having visions of that push-block tipping over just as the hand is next to the blade - I've seen the results of that and it's not pretty... 🥴
Professionally made and presented howto, congratulations. I mostly work with metal and the same issue of a chewed out spot occurs. Your design has features I definitely want to include, I simply need to seal the ply effectively or make the replaceable strip from aluminium the same thickness.
Thank you for sharing.
Thanks - let us know how the modified build goes.
A great video with some bizarre content. 26 mins in you mention a trammel for the first time and say it is something easily created. To be honest, creating a good trammel is probably harder than creating the table attachment for the drill press.
Also, you must have the most clinically clean workshop on the planet. I can’t see any dust anywhere.
Your whole process is overcomplicated. Take away the two outer Masonite. Lay the center insert in places. Square it up. Draw a line on the outer edges of the center insert. Remove and tape and glue as you did.
Yall just blew my mind. Why did I never think to add a table to my drill press??? Making this for sure!
Why did you use a square edge template board to fix the two sides.
Haven't you cut the center bit will the angles when cutting the sides.?
There is one problem with the swinging fence. If you are drilling a long piece of stock and the wall behind gets in the way, because you have the fence angled towards it.
For safety, Never have your hands crossing the body centre line. So Never hold the handle of the drill press, with your Right hand, and then hold a work piece with your left hand, on the right hand side of the cutting tool. Keep your left hand on the Left hand side of the cutting tool at all times, and the right hand on the right hand side of the cutting tool. Seems simple enough, but a lot of shop injuries are caused by the simple fact, that hands crossed over the centre line of the body and cutting tool.
Thanks, Neil - Good info. I think there are a lot of injuries on the drill press just from the mere fact that people underestimate it.
Disappointing video for those of us who have a mild degree of experience. If you are a Newbie you may learn something but experienced users will find this video virtually useless. Thanks for your efforts guys, perhaps you should include the words 'for newbies ' in the title.
Yeah, I would agree that this project is probably for a beginning woodworker. This Drill Press Table is a little more advanced: ua-cam.com/video/3_cQcHMz7UU/v-deo.html and I recently produced a video series on making this woodworking drill press table: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/woodworking-drill-press-table/
Hopefully we will have that up soon.
Hi,
Nice job and well presented. Two thoughts:
1. When routing the slot, I would have put a stopper block at the end hole so I didn't over / under shoot the routing of the hole. I find it easier than trying to eyeball my stopping point.
2. I notice you didn't check the fence was at right angles to the fence base. Your dado cutter loos pretty accurate but I would probably have run a set square across the fence while gluing / clamping it. We do a lot of projects where knowing the fence we are holding work against is at right angles to the table saves us a lot of grief.
Again, nice job. My first view of your videos - I'm sure there will be more
Great points... I always like to use stops when routing slots, as well, for the reason you mentioned. It is also a good idea to check the fence for square when you are assembling it. Plus, I would check it for square from time to time after using it for a while to make sure something hasn't shifted. I've been burned a few times when I've assumed a fence was square only to find out later it wasn't :(
Out of the box, my vernier scale does not zero with the protractor. Is there an adjustment for this?
You can use that plywood spacer and clamps to press down the hardboard even better than the J roller. Clamp down, move along, clamp, move, etc.
When routing that curved slot a scrap clamped to the base board would stop the router cutting too far. Only takes a moment and just makes life that bit easier.
If you don't have a dado cutter, you can cut the rebate by making many passes with the table saw blade. Just move the job across in smaller steps.
Great tips! Thanks!
This a a very handy table. I made it and have used for some time now. Do not let the simplicity of it fool you, it has become a permanent fixture in my shop. I would like to see some additional fixtures for the table saw and the router table. I always struggle getting picture frames built square and with a good fit. Maybe you have something that would help with that?
Nice plan, but the bigger table top interferes with handle for raising the table up and down.
I never have liked the videos and they send all be the same that make you watch the whole damn thing for you can see the end product
2 Suggestions
(I'm a newbie so bear with me) !😊
1. I would think covering 99% of all the boards with glue is a waste, even if it is cheap. 50% coverage (all four corners and the middle should be more than enough I would think).
2. This is to give some clearance for the sacrificial board in the middle. Use the actual beveled sacrificial board for the glue-up and wrap some waxed paper or parchment paper (baking paper) around one or both sides of the sacrificial middle, then glue up the other side. Presto ! You know have a few thousands extra clearance for the sacrificial board to slidea freely.
It's worth a try :)
Dan makes a great point. I would like to add two observations from the original articles thought about now going a cutting the insert to fit! With time and space being our issue, then so it’s going to make sense to already have the insert cut adding the wax-paper trick from Dan Cahill’s addition for saving our valuable time!
Thank you for great service and support I will be creating my replacement top soon using all these great ideas!!
I've done partial glue coverage and regretted it. Glue across the whole surface or the thinner layer will bow upwards when the weather changes. It's especially bad with water based adhesives as used on floors. Personally I would use 6mm plywood for the top layer. It's more stable and will move with the base board. Hardboard expands and contracts far more than plywood. Best avoided. 1/4" or 6mm MDF would do but plywood is probably no more money.
Also avoid MDF for the base board. It is tough, solid and cheap, but it creeps and sags over time. Anyone who has an Ikea chest of drawers will know how the top sags.
Great job. My question is, do you have to remove the table to raise and lower the table.
it is almost 10PM and I can hardly wait for daylight to begin this project. Thank you for a very detailed description.
Good luck! :)
Great Job Guy's... Now, i need to go buy me some new lumber, and remove my old one and build one like this, Your swing arm moves the piece away from the back stop and removable center section puts this table up on the top shelf.nicely done... Nice video, See ya
Thanks for the kind words! :)
I find that installing a couple pieces of wood for a slide-on guide and using a couple toggle clamps (like these: amazon.com/Accessbuy-Toggle-Clamps-Antislip-Release/dp/B0756DSLV3/) instead of installation bolts works very well and makes the table much quicker and easier to take on/off. If you never take it off it's a wash, but I switch back and forth from using my drill press for wood working as well as some light metal work with a press vice.
Yeah, that is a great idea if you are switching it out often. 👍
Christ almighty! Speak faster!! Otherwise, very j formative. 🙂
Just do 2x playback... it gets you through it a lot faster ;)
Thanks for professional ideas, workmanship, instruction, and top quality audiovisual production
Excellent videos professionally filmed. Everything explained and shown. And no music! Thanks. Bravo.
Thanks!
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine
You have a new fan. I'll spend the next few days watching the rest of your videos. That is a beautiful shop. I'm so jealous ! You must have a great cleaning lady come in every day!
James Keyes - LOL, we just keep moving all the clutter off camera. 😀
What happens when the up and down for height adjustment hit bottom of table 🤔
wait where did the guy with no mask go? half way thru the video and now we have a new guy.
A great top. The only issue with every plan I have seen is how to deal with the clearance needed to raise and lower the table with the gear and handle.
Here is our solution for raising and lowering your drill press table with ease: ua-cam.com/video/3_cQcHMz7UU/v-deo.html
the rabbit man doesnt wear a mask too... liked video for DON
APPRECIATE THE STEP BY STEP TO THE POINT EXPLAINING DO U HAVE MORE PROJECTS
The only problem I have with a table like this is that I bang my knuckles when adjusting the table height.
You should check out the crank modification on this Drill Press Table: ua-cam.com/video/3_cQcHMz7UU/v-deo.html
Big deal, about the tear out. It’s on the bottom, what does that affect?
What the fuck does the movable end of the fence screw into? You show a plastic knob. is it a bolt, how does it hold the fence from moving? You didn't show the whole build.
Sorry if we did not explain that clearly. There is a carriage bolt that feeds up through the table into the knob. Also, it might be more clearly explained in the free plans. You can find the link in the description or right here: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/quick-and-easy-drill-press-table/
A neat shop is the sign of a sick mind!!!
Totally agree! Our shop looks pretty neat and clean, as long as you can't see outside the camera's view. ;)
Very nice job I like your show like always smashing my like botton kaboooooom
Why is the spray adhesive used in this video @18:09 not the same as the Amazon affiliate link in video description?
Just want to be sure I'm ordering something that will work for sure.
The product used in the video, we got in bulk from an industrial supplier because we use quite a bit of it. The 3M product I linked to is essentially the same thing, but is more readily available to the diy consumers. I just recently used the 3M Hi-Strength 90 and and it worked great. You can probably get it at the local home center too.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine Got it, thanks.
Much better than the PBS version. There is too much repetitive talking in the PBS. Do it like this PBS.
That trick for perfectly square threaded inserts is just excellent! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
The tip for inserting the threaded insert would also be a great way to guide a hand held drill on jobs where the drill press is not convenient. Also great for keeping a thread tap square.
I never even considered this design. This is really helpful. Thanks!
Another option router out the middle of the bottom piece add bevels to the two edges and slide in a middle section with bevels in opposite direction
Sometimes I think you guys are more interested in commercials, advertisements and viewers. This time that never entered my mind. I don’t even do wood work but I find these videos very interesting. The only thing I would have done on this video would be to use pencil marks to Line up the hard board when glueing and dropping it to the plywood
Thanks.... I often find myself watching videos on how these are made outside of the woodworking realm just because they are interesting, as well.
Very good commentary.
Thank you kindly!
Great description and clear video work. Excellent step by step presentation and a great idea for a practical fence. Thank you very much. Neat idea for installing the threaded insert.
TY for a fine presentation. I still use the drill press on my Dad's Shop Smith which is 80+ years old and going strong.
That’s awesome - they just don’t make them like they used to ;)
Why would you use contact cement? It dries out after about 6 months and falls off... it's meant to be permanent, so why not use wood glue? Thought in the name it says "cement" that stuff is actually an "adhesive". You know the difference between adhesives and cements, right? Adhesives need to retain moisture in order to keep up their tack... and that would present an issue for anything to do with wood. Now you said you added the 90 degree blocks to the back to make sure the fence was at 90... but you added them after clamping down the fence.... so- their uselessly after thoughts if that fence is out of alignment up to that point. So many low level mistakes in this build up. Who gave you guys this much high dollar equipment?
I am particularly impressed with the cabinet you have at the bottom of your floor-standing drill press. Is there a video on how you made that? It's exactly what I am planning to do with mine.
That is part of our 3-in-1 Drill Press Upgrade. The plan and video are available here: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/3-in-1-drill-press-upgrade/
WOW that insert jig is really cool. I'm glad I stayed till the end. Thanks
Yeah, I love that jig... here is a video on how it was put together: ua-cam.com/video/PkLYRWnKs80/v-deo.html
Nice video. I did have to watch it at 1-1/2 times normal speed though.
Okay... I have to admit I never realized that video speed was part of the UA-cam settings. That is awesome! I am going to be able watch videos twice as fast now.
Don’t speed it up. You lose information on timescale. I like it as you have done here.
Very good video. Picked up a few tips I never though about in it. Thanks
Great - Thanks for watching!
An excellent and very clear video which I would have been proud of if I had done it myself. My hobby is making simple but perfect jigs. With a well made jig you can hand it to a chimpanzee and get him to do the work while you watch and have a whisky. John Leinz. U. K.
I have struggled for years wondering why a new drill press table which is substantially different from the last iteration always have to be built in demos like yours. Back fifteen years ago or more you built a remarkable drill press bench which I built. How ever I added dust collection on the table top without the need of vacuum hoses hanging attached in some awkward way. I built 6 inch round hardboard sacrificial backer boards for drilling clean holes on the bottom side. Some of the backer boards have centered 2, 3, 4 inch dia holes to accommodate sanding drums. The table slide left to right to use all of the area of the sacrificial backer boards before I use the backsides. I am grateful for the great drill press table you enabled me to build. Thanks.
That's great to hear... I'm glad that you were able to build one of our drill press tables that is still going strong after 15 years of service in your shop!
A cheap drill press commonly available is fine for drilling, but the chuck bearings are not built to take large side loads. It's not a milling machine. :)
It would be far better to use the press to make a plywood drum sander case powered by a washing machine motor.
Nice video, but I didn't see anything about how to attach the clamp to the fence.
Agree. Please, Woodsmith, clarify.
30:41 Bryan said *square* - but what he really wanted to say is *perpendicular* .
32:28 And now - ladies & gentlemen - in the next two or three hours, *Bryan* is gonna make a stopping block, for repeatable cuts of highest precision.
No - seriously guys: that was a nice video. Thumbs up.
As woodworkers, we are so used to dealing with fences that must be square to a PLANE, such as a table saw rip fence or cross cut sled, that we forget that a drill press fence only needs to keep any given point on a work piece a set distance from a single point-- the chuck. This table design is a revelation in its simplicity. Thank you!
It was painful to watch once Brian Nelson came on with his schlurring...
I made a table pretty much like this about 4-5 yrs ago but instead of wasting $ on unneeded inserts I just countersunk the bolts in the top.
I think MDF bottom is a cheaper option then Baltic burch plywood. But if you can find comerical grade cabnit shelf used in retail many of them are multi layers of plywood and partical board thats very stable and hold up nicely. Your working top will be the hardboard top, a trick for this is to make a 4x4" center drilling area
Fix the back of the slide out to the plywood and only use the 4x4 area as change out space just bevel all 4 sides
And the corresponding mating surfaces.
The frt will slide out you change the center and put the frt back in this will make for less waste. This is a good starting point for any type of system you want to make even draws to hold drill bits and chuck keys in right at the drill press even your fostner bits.
you are into your spray adhesive being so good why did you have to swap back to old school glue, spray not good enough hey?
Each adhesive has it's own pros and cons and can work great in different applications.
The spray adhesive is best for wide areas, where you have flat surfaces to glue, whereas the wood glue is effective for the narrow connections after clamping
This isn't a critique. More or less just me thinking out loud and maybe get some feedback from others. I do like the overall design and am going to give it a go.
Not understanding why you bother beveling the slot for the sacrificial piece? Yes I get the "reasoning" however with the bevel you can't flip to use the other side. Without the bevel that wouldn't be a problem. All the force on the drill press is downward so it doesn't matter if its not "locked in". You shouldn't drill through the hard board if you stop once you are through the work piece. If you can flip it you would cut the times you need to replace it in half. I would think the fence and gravity and the work piece would do a good enough job keeping it from lifting. Also without the bevels making replacements would only take seconds if you use the old one to set your table saw fence.
Again I do like the design and I think this is going to be my solution. Thanks for sharing and the free plans!
Great, but every time I watch these videos and want to make a "simple" jig I find I need either tools or jigs I don't have in order to make a "simple" jig
LOL... It is kind of frustrating paradox. We are actually trying to show using more hand tools in the future as well, so hopefully we can show some simple solutions too.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine it would definitely help and be very much appreciated cause I have epilepsy which would certainly make a table saw out of the question so blade facing down is a much more safer option for me
love the vids,
keep them coming
The slot in the insert is NOT for a screwdriver it is to cut the threads in the wood. Gee whiz guys research your subject before hand.
Yeah, I've heard that in the past regarding threaded inserts, but I don't know if that is the case in this particular model. The slot in the body of the insert doesn't go out to the edge of the threads, so I'm not sure it would really help that much in cutting the threads in the wood. Maybe though.
Woodsmith 😀 thank you for the reply, the way you inserted the inserts is the proper way to do it.
And I am pretty sure the video help folks
you can router halve way through from both sides, no need to raise the workpiece and no risk of chip-out.
Why are drill press tables the only upgrade ever considered in these videos? I have two drill presses and have made many upgrades. But I have no plans for a larger table. Well, after watching, perhaps I may make one someday. But I do both wood and metal work so I would make it easier to remove and remount.
I put the centre strip in as i glued but protected the centre area under the bevel by wrapping the centre in waxed paper taped tightly around it in place. I’m a big fan of making all my own glues and finishes so i use a controllable hide glue recipe. Then slide out the centre and peel the wax paper off...i use a Danish soap wax to protect the insert guides from wear....it works for me...🥴
Great tips! Thanks!
Excellent video and I like the simplicity of the design. Thanks for producing this video.
Thanks for watching! :)
I like the dovetail slot for the sacrifice board. I did this to the fence on my route so I could install zero clearance inserts. I made up a number of insert blanks at the same time. When ready to profile the insert I first set route bit to proper height then pivot the fence through the cutter. This insert also becomes a perfect height setup guide the next time you need this profile.
That's a great idea! We've done similar replaceable inserts on sleds and jigs, but hadn't thought of doing this on a router fence.
Great build!
Just wish we could get decent plywood here in South Africa - quality is very poor compared to what you have available in US and Europe...
Just to confirm, you turned your tablesaw blade to 45 degrees to cut the bevels?
Secondly, your tablesaw fence, was that DIY build? What was the white material used?
Looking forward to future videos..
It looks like we used a 30 degree bevel on the insert. The table saw fence is the stock fence that came with the table saw - the faces are made from UHMW plastic.
Appreciate the feed-back..
markforrestsm Can you have plywood shipped from one of the online vendors? WoodworkersSource.com or even Amazon.com? I'm sure the shipping would be expensive but for jigs and shop accessories might be worth it.
Hi Markforrestsm,
I feel exactly the same here in Australia each time I see the perfect ply people are using in the video clips. Here in Australia your choices are an external hardwood ply with A bond and BC faces or at almost double the price you can get marine ply with A bond and AA faces some is Hoop pine but much is an Asian word that is a dark red colour.. I have found a supplier of birch ply but it is approaching Au$300 a sheet. All the best
Ouch! Our "marine ply", in my opinion, is still sub-standard. No-one I've asked has even considered importing birch or maple ply and if they did, it would be so expensive.. Shit happens, I guess :-).... At 3:25, I'm salivating looking at their ply....
All the best to you too
I just checked online and I understand the difference between hardboard and MDF. No need to reply. Thanks for a great video.
Sounds good. Thanks for watching.
Personally I would use MDF or even plywood for the top layer,. It's more durable than hardboard and you'll struggle to find 1/4" (6mm) hardboard.