1979 Puch Magnum Project Part 13 - Ignition System + First Start
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- Опубліковано 30 жов 2013
- Installing the Treats Puch E-50 CDI Complete Adventure Pack - Version 2
www.treatland.tv/puch-e50-CDI...
Wired per the instructions in the above link and as directed moved the brown wire from the rear to the front and cut down the bolt so it is flush with the back of the stator plate. That stops it hitting the E-50 case preventing full rotation of the plate during timing. I added a zip tie to stop the bundle pulling the connections loose, but you don't see that in video until I mount the stator to the engine.
I replaced most of the connections with quick connect and soldered any original connections I kept as crimps sometimes come loose/don't have a good connection.
At this point because my aim is to just make sure the components work and the engine will run I'm connection everything as-is. Once it run's I plan on going back and making extensions for wires that don't quite reach, tidying up the wiring/brake cables etc.
The Olympia coil wouldn't fit in the original coils bracket so I made a new one from aluminum (Sorry that the "making of" it takes up such a large portion of the video, I will add a link to skip it when that point starts).
I'm not using a frame ground, instead I'll connect all grounds to the ignition coil. When I wire up the lights and any accessories they will all have a ground wire ran back to a common point - which may end up being a Terminal ("Chocolate") Block under one of the side covers.
Fuel line is Helix Red Transparent - 3/16" to connect the Tank to the Carb (petcock is designed for 1/4", but will work with 3/16" if you use a hose clamp or zip ties - All other parts in that run used 3/16" plus makes it easier to replace without damaging the plastic tip on the petock) and 1/4" for section that ties the two sides of the tan together.
Using regular ATF I got from a local automotive store. Fresh Gas (1 Gallon) mixed 50:1 with non synthetic 2 stroke oil (~2.6oz). Plug was gapped to .016".
Starting just needed a little playing around with the choke and idle screw. Once I got that sorted out it now starts first kick, albeit a little rough and bogs down when given a little throttle. Next video will be setting the timing so I can test ride and tune the carb. - Навчання та стиль
Ah man first starts are the best! Such a great feeling after all the hard work; the sounds, the smells, it's really an experience to have. So much anticipation in those first kickovers!
Your video's are great and nicely detailed! Keep up the good work.
White wire is rubbing/resting on the crankshaft before the flywheel goes on.
Good job man,your puch engine is like new,excellent rebuild and excellent videos too!!
I,ve probably watched all your video,s top notch, you must be very clever man....
Thanks for the video everone, very nice work ,keep up the great work and keep making videos ☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆
magneto is moving to right but arrow on it shows left ?
Ok I don't have a cdi ignition it's all original so could I still replace it with that part
Why did you shorten the one screw on the coil in the beginning? Just curious bc I put mine in haven't wired it up yet or anything but didn't shorten the screw and it seemed to fit ok
hello. do you have any idea that does it work on left turning engines? and i'm bit confused cause the arrow said left on the flywheel and your engine turns right :/
why the arrow at the flywheel is pointing at the wrong direction?
Do you have a video of the original ignition system with points
wow
can you guide me as to where can I get an electronic ignition (magneto)package for a 1979 yamaha tt 500 thanks.
CD I for my bike
Muy bueno...tengo una puch maxi y no se donde conseguir estos componentes para hacer la adaptacion. Saludos desde Venezuela
Hey man i juts got one of these bikes but I need a new kill switch and can’t find it anywhere. Can you share the link for the kill switch with me?
what is the machine that you do your braket called?
axel glad It's a CNC Milling Machine, mine is sold by Grizzly and is Model G0704. it's sold as a manual Mill (you turn handles to move the part). You can buy (like I did) or make the parts needed to control it using a computer (CNC = Computer Numerical Control).
ua-cam.com/video/0sI7WFSaucg/v-deo.html
I'm working on a 1978 puch lost spark took it to shop they say I have a bad internal coil would u kno Eny thing about that or what I need to fix it thanks
I'd guess you just need to get a new internal coil, its on the stator which is located under the flywheel. I've replaced entire stators, but not individual parts on the stator. This is what they look like - www.treatland.tv/puch-CDI-internal-coil-p/puch-cdi-internal-coil.htm
n1bpd ok I was wondering if my bike is all original will that part work my lights and everything thing is working I replaced coil pack and spark plug cap and wire I just need that coil to get spark to my plug cause I guess that's what gives everything else spark
It doesnt say if its for points or CDI so I'm not sure. I replaced my points with a CDI shortly after I got the bike so I'm not much help I'm afraid. The Moped Army Wiki Page has a lot of info and you could also ask on their forum - www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Main_Page
When of mobylette project?
are you mechanical engineer? your prosess is perfect
Ketamin lav en video om det så er de unge lærer om det
Is that an OEM petcock?
+Gulgonful I believe it's the original, someone could have replaced it before I bought it though.
Full फुल वायरिंग चाहिए
Mujhe pura magnet coil चाहिए
still a 2 stroke
you stand on that tiny legs... thats not very smart you can break the whole engine block
also you should not pushing him that hard with everything new inside, let the things settle down....
You appear slightly less intelligent than the average person.
Brett Esser
you insulting my knowledge?
Just slightly?
Yes you stupid fuck.
@@brettesser3595 Oh my god! Thank you for this. I'm laughing my ass off. Fuck me:)