Thanks. I was immediately able to troubleshoot my "open" thermostat, then go pick up one locally. I had my dryer fixed, cleaned and reassembled in 90 minutes.
Very helpful Reggie. I have a Cabrio front load dryer that stopped heating. Within minutes I was able to watch your video, learned how to use the multi-tester correctly, used a candle flame and discovered that the heat regulator was indeed bad. Took your advice and changed out the high limit switch as well. Very valuable information and you just saved me all of the expense of a service call. God bless and thanks again!
Thank you so much for your video. We couldn't figure out why we had continuity if the part was in fact bad. We did not think of testing it under a load. Your example with the lighter explained everything. We in turn tested ours exactly like you did and were able to determine the part needs replaced. My dryer was getting so hot that it was tripping the breaker. Thank you again!
Awesome and thank you for watching my video, you may want to replace the heating element while you're at it, the dryer overheating could have caused some excessive wear and tear on it, it may go out shortly too.
Very very informative. My dryer’s been getting very hot to the touch, but not to the point of turning itself off or throwing any fuses. I never thought anything of it so long as I was getting continuity with the dryer off, but now I’ll replace all of them.
Your video was the only one that made sense and I tested that regulator how you tested it and it continued to have continuity when I had fire under it.. So I put that old reg. back in and then said wait,,, looked at your video again,.. and said that one is bad...and installed the new one. Thanks
Thank you so much for all your help! You're awesome! You saved me a lot of money by troubleshooting. I learned the element was bad. I, also, learned basic principles of ohm!
Great fucking video. Thank you. I’ve been looking for a comprehensive explanation of these things and you’re channel is terrific for in depth but not overly complicated walkthroughs. Can you tutorials for other things in life?
I'm new to your channel and thanks for your efforts to explain the technical appliance issues. On this one though I would have liked to see you take more time to fully explain the thermal switch and how it works with the temp regulator. You glossed over that a too little quickly which made it a bit confusing. Thanksj again.
Reggie, one comment missed. On a whirlpool electric dryer you have 2 temp regulators/ fuses in same area as heating element; but you also have cycling regulator and fuse on outgoing vent. I was super frustrated When continuity on both fuses and heating element were all good until I realized there was cycling regulator/ operating regulator / however it's called on the opposite side of the dryer. Which is bad, no continuity, and had to be replaced. Nobody mentions cycling fuse on their how to videos when discussing no heat for your dryer Unless DIYer actually knows terminology and searches for cycling thermostat. Thanks for video to work from as starting point
Hello, I replaced my heating element and thermostat, but it's still not heating. I discovered when I set it to auto moisture detect, the heating element does heat up, but not with regular use. Do you think my dryer temperature switch (low, med, high) might be bad? When I took it apart, I tested all the thermostats for continuity and all seemed fine. Thanks!
Hi there a great video, very informative! I have a related question, I have a Maytag Neptune dryer model # mde3000azw and the infinite temperature control does not work, as in temperature is full heat all the time no matter what heat level I put it at. Would that be a temperature regulator or is that the temperature adjustment switch not working? Thanks!
Hey i have a crosley dryer. I have changed element and hi temp thermostat. But i need to cut wire for regulator. Parts nor wires are marked. Do they have a special way to go in? Like positive/negative? Please and Thank you.
The wire is continuous, the fuse acts as a toggle switch cutting off the flow at a particular temperature. If the wire is burned out then splice it. Im not sure what they're doing but if you're bypassing that's a bad idea
Hey great job on explaining things. You did a good job on telling and demonstrating to people what the equipment is and wear it located on the machine. When you end your videos don't forget to tell them to subscribe to your channel and hit the bell so they would be notify when the next video is posted. Good luck.
Hey Reggie, I'm having a hard time troubleshooting my Kenmore Elite HE4. It would run but it stop heating. I checked and the high limit sensor was bad. So, I went ahead and replaced the high limit sensor, thermostat and heating element. I made sure it was clean of lint was from the filter to the outside vent. Restarted fine. Dried a couple loads of clothes then it went out again. I checked to make sure the element wasn't grounding out and that was good. I even checked the thermistor (I think that's the correct name) it's on the blower to the right of the thermostat which is also good. I'm lost now and don't know what else it could be. Thanks in advance for I any assistance you can provide...🙂
My dryer has a third sensor mounted just downstream of the blower fan leading into the exhaust hose. What does this one do? And is the heat test for this one the same as the one tested in your video? Thanks
You sure make this look easy! Ive been trying to diagnose my dryer not heating problem for 2 weeks. I've replaced this Fuse, the heating element itself, thermal fuse, and the Thermal Cut off. As soon as I did all that it worked but by the end of the load the Thermal cutoff had blown again.. One of your other videos said that's usually due to poor ventilation. I went and cleaned out the entire trap housing and the vent hose. Then replaced the Thermal Cutoff and it worked for thirty mins or more, air coming out was 175 degrees F. I checked the cycling thermostat, it opens @ 160 F. The heating element has a resistance of 9.3. And is not grounding out. Is this a timer issue? (sorry for the blabbering but I'm stuck.) thanks Reggie!
Heat regulator, how often does it turn the heater on, how long does the heater stay on before the fuse turns it off? And how long is the heater suppost to be off between intervals? I time it and it varies from hot the first 5 min, then cool for 1:30 secs and then 3:00 hot, 1 min cool. Thanks
The one you call a " heat regulator" does not regulate heat or temp, those are there as a safety feature. The one that regulate heat is the cycling thermostat next to the thermalfuse in older model or in new models with a pbc a thermistor.
It is the dryers heating element enclosure "High limit" safety thermostat" its not a fuse and I am not sure why he calls it that it does not function that way.. it is suposed to click open at its set temp and kill the power to the heating element if airflow to the element is restricted and heater gets to hot thats why its there ,, if the high limit thermostat is defective fails to open when it should all dryers also have a Thermal fuse" that will blow open permanently and can not be reset only replaced if it blows. The high limit T-stat will open and cut the elements power at a set temperature.. if the "High limit" thermostat fails open then the dryer wont heat. If the thermal fuse blows "Same" If the thermal fuse blows you must allways "Replace" both" The High limit and the thermal fuse "But" only after first checking for a blocked dryer vent line all the way to outside of the house or a neglected clogged lint screen ,, a dirty dryers blower wheel plugged with lint will also cause low air flow. Low airflow or placing way too large a load in the dryer forces the High limit to keep having to break the circut and this wears its contacts out and causes it to fail in time , So allways find out what the cause of low airflow issue is "first" fix the "source" of the issue ... Dryers "also" have a cycling temperature control Thermostat and thermal fuse on the outlet of the blower ,, thats the one that is supposed to "Regulate how how hot the air in the dryer drum gets , Newer dryers with electronic controls use a Thermistor instead that the computer monitors to sense how hot the dryer gets. the computer turns a contactor (A high current electrical relay) on and off instead of of a mechnical thermostat "But" they all will still have a thermal fuse for proctection if any part of the system fails to turn off the heater and allows it to get too hot .. its allways there as a fail safe..
my thermostat on my dryer keeps gong out. Got good ventilation. I notice that in the mornings my lights in the house start to dim on and of.we always do a load in the morning to get clothes ready for work. Can the lights dimming cause the thermostat to not work?dont know what else to look for. Everything else seems fine.
Did you test the cycling thermostat / heat regulator with a lighter as it shows in the video? If it's not turning off the heating element , the heating element just runs and eventually overheats and then your thermostat is triggered
Just subscribed. I'm brand new to trying my hand at home repair. Very first project: washer/dryer. I was able to replace the inlet valve on my Roper washer. I ran the washer through a half-cycle and no leakage. My Roper dryer is functioning and the drum is turning, but no heat at all. I replaced the damaged heating element, but still no heat. changed the regulator from the old element to the new. I bought a multimeter (that doesn't beep). Not at all sure how to use it and couldn't find your video on multimeter use. Do the regulators merely need to read zero OHMS? Any wisdom you can share?
If the meter shows in one then that's no continuity if it starts showing numbers that means continuity. When it comes to most dryer fuses you want continuity which means the circuit is complete. Do simple text first such as making sure your drink heat down is not on fluff air but on high heat, use your voltmeter to test your voltage going into the dryer from the house.
I just finished watching your "How to repair a dryer that won't heat." You told us to save our money and do not buy a new high limit fuse, just reset it. You then hit it on the cement a few times and said we are good to go. Now in this video you contradict yourself by saying to by both the heat regulator and high limit. What am I suppose to believe??
Thanks for the video,I did learned a lot today
Wow!! Thank you for this valuable information!! 😊
Thanks. I was immediately able to troubleshoot my "open" thermostat, then go pick up one locally. I had my dryer fixed, cleaned and reassembled in 90 minutes.
Very helpful Reggie. I have a Cabrio front load dryer that stopped heating. Within minutes I was able to watch your video, learned how to use the multi-tester correctly, used a candle flame and discovered that the heat regulator was indeed bad. Took your advice and changed out the high limit switch as well. Very valuable information and you just saved me all of the expense of a service call. God bless and thanks again!
Chuck Wills all glory to God thank you brother I'm glad I was able to help.
Almost positive this is the solution to my problem! Ordered my new parts and excited to fix my dryer! Thank you
What do you set your meter on to check
Thank you so much for your video. We couldn't figure out why we had continuity if the part was in fact bad. We did not think of testing it under a load. Your example with the lighter explained everything. We in turn tested ours exactly like you did and were able to determine the part needs replaced. My dryer was getting so hot that it was tripping the breaker. Thank you again!
Awesome and thank you for watching my video, you may want to replace the heating element while you're at it, the dryer overheating could have caused some excessive wear and tear on it, it may go out shortly too.
Very very informative. My dryer’s been getting very hot to the touch, but not to the point of turning itself off or throwing any fuses. I never thought anything of it so long as I was getting continuity with the dryer off, but now I’ll replace all of them.
Thank you ,learn something new every day.😊
Your video was the only one that made sense and I tested that regulator how you tested it and it continued to have continuity when I had fire under it.. So I put that old reg. back in and then said wait,,, looked at your video again,.. and said that one is bad...and installed the new one. Thanks
Awesome, glad to help
My Mann! Great video, thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for all your help! You're awesome! You saved me a lot of money by troubleshooting. I learned the element was bad. I, also, learned basic principles of ohm!
Great fucking video. Thank you. I’ve been looking for a comprehensive explanation of these things and you’re channel is terrific for in depth but not overly complicated walkthroughs. Can you tutorials for other things in life?
I'm new to your channel and thanks for your efforts to explain the technical appliance issues. On this one though I would have liked to see you take more time to fully explain the thermal switch and how it works with the temp regulator. You glossed over that a too little quickly which made it a bit confusing. Thanksj again.
Reggie, one comment missed. On a whirlpool electric dryer you have 2 temp regulators/ fuses in same area as heating element; but you also have cycling regulator and fuse on outgoing vent. I was super frustrated When continuity on both fuses and heating element were all good until I realized there was cycling regulator/ operating regulator / however it's called on the opposite side of the dryer. Which is bad, no continuity, and had to be replaced. Nobody mentions cycling fuse on their how to videos when discussing no heat for your dryer Unless DIYer actually knows terminology and searches for cycling thermostat. Thanks for video to work from as starting point
Hello, I replaced my heating element and thermostat, but it's still not heating.
I discovered when I set it to auto moisture detect, the heating element does heat up, but not with regular use. Do you think my dryer temperature switch (low, med, high) might be bad?
When I took it apart, I tested all the thermostats for continuity and all seemed fine. Thanks!
Hi there a great video, very informative! I have a related question, I have a Maytag Neptune dryer model # mde3000azw and the infinite temperature control does not work, as in temperature is full heat all the time no matter what heat level I put it at. Would that be a temperature regulator or is that the temperature adjustment switch not working? Thanks!
Sounds like the switch. But best to test it before replacement
Hey i have a crosley dryer. I have changed element and hi temp thermostat. But i need to cut wire for regulator. Parts nor wires are marked. Do they have a special way to go in? Like positive/negative? Please and Thank you.
The wire is continuous, the fuse acts as a toggle switch cutting off the flow at a particular temperature. If the wire is burned out then splice it. Im not sure what they're doing but if you're bypassing that's a bad idea
Hey great job on explaining things.
You did a good job on telling and demonstrating to people what the equipment is and wear it located on the machine. When you end your videos don't forget to tell them to subscribe to your channel and hit the bell so they would be notify when the next video is posted. Good luck.
Going to tackle a dryer this weekend fingers crossed love how you explain everything
Hey Reggie, I'm having a hard time troubleshooting my Kenmore Elite HE4. It would run but it stop heating. I checked and the high limit sensor was bad. So, I went ahead and replaced the high limit sensor, thermostat and heating element. I made sure it was clean of lint was from the filter to the outside vent. Restarted fine. Dried a couple loads of clothes then it went out again. I checked to make sure the element wasn't grounding out and that was good. I even checked the thermistor (I think that's the correct name) it's on the blower to the right of the thermostat which is also good. I'm lost now and don't know what else it could be. Thanks in advance for I any assistance you can provide...🙂
Fantastic video I know all this just useful to click the brain cells into action. tkx
great video!
My dryer has a third sensor mounted just downstream of the blower fan leading into the exhaust hose. What does this one do? And is the heat test for this one the same as the one tested in your video? Thanks
You sure make this look easy! Ive been trying to diagnose my dryer not heating problem for 2 weeks. I've replaced this Fuse, the heating element itself, thermal fuse, and the Thermal Cut off. As soon as I did all that it worked but by the end of the load the Thermal cutoff had blown again.. One of your other videos said that's usually due to poor ventilation. I went and cleaned out the entire trap housing and the vent hose. Then replaced the Thermal Cutoff and it worked for thirty mins or more, air coming out was 175 degrees F. I checked the cycling thermostat, it opens @ 160 F. The heating element has a resistance of 9.3. And is not grounding out. Is this a timer issue? (sorry for the blabbering but I'm stuck.) thanks Reggie!
Only thing left is checking the dryer lint screen or cleaning out the air duct on the dryer itself there could be a blockage where the fan is
Great information thank you
No problem, thank you
Heat regulator, how often does it turn the heater on, how long does the heater stay on before the fuse turns it off? And how long is the heater suppost to be off between intervals? I time it and it varies from hot the first 5 min, then cool for 1:30 secs and then 3:00 hot, 1 min cool. Thanks
Is there an issue testing with flame while not seeing temperature that switch turns off?
Would this switch be the reason why my dryer only dries hot instead of low?
Nice video.
I have a ge dryer and all fuses and the element have continuity. But its still not heating . What can is be
I doing .. I like to Know.. abouth a Whirlpool Dryer.. It's Not Regulating the Heat.. can you texme what I can do..
Did you check the exhaust vent
The one you call a " heat regulator" does not regulate heat or temp, those are there as a safety feature.
The one that regulate heat is the cycling thermostat next to the thermalfuse in older model or in new models with a pbc a thermistor.
It is the dryers heating element enclosure "High limit" safety thermostat" its not a fuse and I am not sure why he calls it that it does not function that way.. it is suposed to click open at its set temp and kill the power to the heating element if airflow to the element is restricted and heater gets to hot thats why its there ,, if the high limit thermostat is defective fails to open when it should all dryers also have a Thermal fuse" that will blow open permanently and can not be reset only replaced if it blows. The high limit T-stat will open and cut the elements power at a set temperature.. if the "High limit" thermostat fails open then the dryer wont heat. If the thermal fuse blows "Same" If the thermal fuse blows you must allways "Replace" both" The High limit and the thermal fuse "But" only after first checking for a blocked dryer vent line all the way to outside of the house or a neglected clogged lint screen ,, a dirty dryers blower wheel plugged with lint will also cause low air flow. Low airflow or placing way too large a load in the dryer forces the High limit to keep having to break the circut and this wears its contacts out and causes it to fail in time , So allways find out what the cause of low airflow issue is "first" fix the "source" of the issue ... Dryers "also" have a cycling temperature control Thermostat and thermal fuse on the outlet of the blower ,, thats the one that is supposed to "Regulate how how hot the air in the dryer drum gets , Newer dryers with electronic controls use a Thermistor instead that the computer monitors to sense how hot the dryer gets. the computer turns a contactor (A high current electrical relay) on and off instead of of a mechnical thermostat "But" they all will still have a thermal fuse for proctection if any part of the system fails to turn off the heater and allows it to get too hot .. its allways there as a fail safe..
THANK YOU,,👍
my thermostat on my dryer keeps gong out. Got good ventilation. I notice that in the mornings my lights in the house start to dim on and of.we always do a load in the morning to get clothes ready for work. Can the lights dimming cause the thermostat to not work?dont know what else to look for. Everything else seems fine.
Did you test the cycling thermostat / heat regulator with a lighter as it shows in the video? If it's not turning off the heating element , the heating element just runs and eventually overheats and then your thermostat is triggered
I test it and its good.
Just subscribed. I'm brand new to trying my hand at home repair. Very first project: washer/dryer. I was able to replace the inlet valve on my Roper washer. I ran the washer through a half-cycle and no leakage. My Roper dryer is functioning and the drum is turning, but no heat at all. I replaced the damaged heating element, but still no heat. changed the regulator from the old element to the new. I bought a multimeter (that doesn't beep). Not at all sure how to use it and couldn't find your video on multimeter use. Do the regulators merely need to read zero OHMS? Any wisdom you can share?
BTW, the multimeter is analog...
If the meter shows in one then that's no continuity if it starts showing numbers that means continuity. When it comes to most dryer fuses you want continuity which means the circuit is complete. Do simple text first such as making sure your drink heat down is not on fluff air but on high heat, use your voltmeter to test your voltage going into the dryer from the house.
What happens if I connect the wires to them incorrectly?
Why is my dryer blowing the breaker then
A burned out wire or heating element is grounding out.
@@LeanOnYourRep the element is reading continuity
Not 200°C. It's ~ 200°F
Probably not a good idea to use that lighter torch over a flammable cloth place mat or over a flammable wooden table.
I just finished watching your "How to repair a dryer that won't heat." You told us to save our money and do not buy a new high limit fuse, just reset it. You then hit it on the cement a few times and said we are good to go. Now in this video you contradict yourself by saying to by both the heat regulator and high limit. What am I suppose to believe??