I think this guy did an excellent job with describing how and what to check. He spoke slowly and clear enough so that I could understand him. Now I have to try and do what he recommends.
Thank you! This is exactly what I was searching for, straight forward no nonsense information on how to identify and test the components and what to look for.
Thank you so much! Now I know exactly what to do before just buying a new heating element and possibly have it short out too! No nonsense instructions - that’s what I like!
I followed your video and found that one of the thermal fuses had no continuity, I removed it and started examining it to find a replacement part online, as I held it in my hand and typed the model number, it clicked! I accidentally pressed a reset switch that I did not notice. I immediately checked continuity and found that it was good. Reinstalled the part and I'm back in business. Thank you so much for your instructions. You made me look like a hero to my gf. I owe you a beer
Excellent video. clear, and very helpful. We had a burnt wire, and I needed to know if it was from a bad connector, or faulty components. Each component tested out exactly as you described, so we will change the wire and see what happens!
80% of Most common problem people always run into is buying cheap generic parts from Amazon or ebay. People have to realize that you get what you pay for. Always use original quality parts even if you have to pay 10x more the price. Don’t use cheap chinese junk. Thanks for sharing your videos brotha and keep up the good work.
You often get what you pay for. However, before this absurd inflation, there was a nice middle ground between poor quality, undercutting products, and vastly overpriced products relying on vendor lock-in. I have faith in competition as long as good reviews are published. I personally think the approach of sites like Project Farm gives us the best quality and price.
Yeah! Don't replace your cheap low quality Chinese junk parts! Replace your Chinese junk parts with expensive low quality Chinese junk parts! Makes sense!
looks like the black jumper wire's crimp corroded over the past 13 years and killed my fuse. Thanks to your video I found out that everything else is OK. Gotta get a new wire and fuse now.
Check to make sure that your moisture sensor bars are clean ua-cam.com/video/9EEjcsHvYrk/v-deo.html and that the dryer and exhaust venting are free from obstructions.
I have checked all that you have suggested and still have blown 3 high temp thermal fuses on the heating element. I have replaced the coil even though is was not bad. There are no codes on the display. Also have checked and rechecked all sensors and they check out good. Dryer still runs just will not heat. How do I check for a bad control board? This is an awesome post! Thank you for the excellent instructions.
Usually you have to determine the main control board is bad by process of elimination. If you are continuing to blow thermal fuses on the heating element, that could indicate either a shorted heating element or a bad main control board. If you run the dryer on an air dry (no heat) cycle and the dryer continues to heat then you either have a bad main control board or shorted heating element.
The moisture sensor can also trip the thermo fuse. It’s located inside the drum in the front. You have to stick your head in there to see. If the drums turns blue, which means they use to much fabric softener and coated the sensor. This will cause your dryer to prematurely shut off early too. Wipe it down with graffiti remover and your good to go.
Thank you for this video! I have a Samsung dve45t3400p/a3 that is not turning on at all, no display or anything. I’ve verified that 240v are coming to the dryer from the outlet and completed all the tests in this video successfully, but still no power. Could it be a bad main control board at this point?
The terminal block being the panel on the back with the wires connecting from the power cord to the dryer? Yes those are fine and I tested them with the multimeter as well and all was good. Thank you for the quick reply by the way! I’ve been sitting here all day troubleshooting so you’re right here with me lol
So I tested everything on my dryer, only component that didn’t pass was the thermal fuse. Vent & blower was clear, not sure about the main control board yet, but everything else passed with flying colors. Is it possible the thermal fuse just went bad on its own? Would it be ok to replace the fuse by itself with no other components?
It is very likely that something caused the dryer to overheat and the fuse to blow. Check the exhaust venting for any restrictions and test the heating element for shorts. Also, try running the dryer on an air dry (no heat) cycle to see if it heats up.
@@PartsDr thank you for replying so quick. I tested the heating element for shorts and continuity and all was fine. Also the thermister and other t-stat on the blower assembly. We did have a buildup of my wifes hair that may have been causing the blower blades to struggle spinning. I replaced the thermal fuse and its working as it should right now on air dry and regular heating.
@@leesplbg Glad you got it fixed and running again! If the fuse blows again, you may have a bad main control board and one of the relays that controls the heat could be sticking on. Hopefully it doesn't require anything further.
My Samsung dryer seems to be heating hotter than normal when set to extra low temperature. I checked these things and they seem to be working per your video. What else could be causing this?
My dryer display is not turning ON, and the display dosen't show anything. I am sure it gets power because the door lamp turns on and I checked and found that the plug and cord are fine. How could I check and see the broken part? Is this due to bad thermal fuse? Thank you.
If the dryer is electric, you should still verify that you have power to the dryer. With a 240v dryer it is possible to get only one side of the power 120v which can make it look like the dryer is getting power but it is only getting half of it.
My Samsung dryer's heating element shorted out ( the heating coil wire was touching the metal frame of the heating element). There was a burn mark on the metal. The Dryer shut down and will not power up at all.. No display, No lights, No power and it did not throw the breaker. I am wondering if the whole thing is fried now? Will the thermal fuses cause the whole unit to shut down? Is there another fuse somewhere that protects the whole machine?
A blown thermal fuse does not usually act that way. There is not a fuse that protects the whole machine that we have seen. Sometimes a shorted element will damage the main control board.
Learn how to disassemble your Samsung dryer here: ua-cam.com/video/yMm91uA-KUY/v-deo.html Learn how to replace the heating element on your Samsung dryer here: ua-cam.com/video/lbEtu8HFcHA/v-deo.html
Have a dryer that the element won't heat. When you turn it on plugged in 120v reaches the element fine when you turn the dryer on heat and turn it on. The thermal switches have no resistance when turned off as they should. The element tests good as it has 10 ohm resistance and does not short to ground. There's no apparent physical problem with the element. There's a light blue wire running down towards the motor that seems to have a short to ground but I'm not sure if that's normal being it goes to the motor windings. Seems like I remember that motor wires will show a short to ground. The motor works great. Is there some way that the element could actually be bad anyway? What would be your recommendation to do in this situation? How can the element test good, have 120v going to it, but not heat? Anyone have a clue if the element is bad anyway or is there something else that could cause this?
My newly installed heating element out is showing 13.3 ohms. All the other parts tested good, but the dryer still isn't producing heat. Could the resistance be too high at 13.3 to not allow the dryer to heat up?
No, it should still heat up at 13.3 ohms. There must be something else causing your no heat problem. Check into the power supply to the dryer, the motor centrifugal switch, and the main control board.
Great post and information! I have checked all 5 components listed in this video and they all check out good. I have not reassembled and tried it again, but it was not heating when I took it apart. Thoughts?
We would check to make sure the dryer has proper power supply 220-240v (make sure there are no burned wires at the terminal block). If the power is good then you could have a bad motor or main control board causing the dryer to not heat.
@@PartsDr thanks for the info. I cleaned everything up and put it back together. The Digital display is working and the dryer looks like it's running when you press play but it will not run now. I make sure everything was connected when I put it back together. I checked the power coming in the outlet, each hot got 121v and then both got 243v. Checked the wires from cord going into dryer, perfect condition. How do you test for motor or control board?
Hi this is my second time trying this. All new heating element but still no heat? Took apart again and using my manual ohm meter I can’t get a reading from the element itself? Could I have ordered a bad heating element?
I have over heating issue with HE error code on my Samsung dryer. I did everything you said, but I’m still facing the issue. Heating element is good and fuses and thermistor are good. Read ohms and they were in the range they are supposed to be. I purchased a new mother board I’m hoping that fixes my issue. Any ideas or thoughts? Ty
Check to make sure you have 220-240v to the dryer. Look for burned wires on the terminal block. It could also be a bad main control board or a bad centrifugal switch in the drive motor.
My Samsung dryer wasn’t stopping when it was turned off so I unhooked the cords from the motherboard or computer and it worked fine for about two months. Now there’s no heat. I’ve replace the thermal fuse and thermostat and heating element and still no heat
Check to make sure you have 220-240v to the dryer. Look for burned wires on the terminal block. It could also be a bad main control board or a bad centrifugal switch in the drive motor.
Learn how to disassemble your Samsung dryer here: ua-cam.com/video/yMm91uA-KUY/v-deo.html Learn how to replace the heating element on your Samsung dryer here: ua-cam.com/video/lbEtu8HFcHA/v-deo.html
I have checked everything you stated. The element is reading 9 to 10 ohms and the thermistor is a bit over 10 ohms but drops when I touch the middle part with my finger when I have the meter attach to the ends. The thermostat and the thermostat fuse beep when I test the continuity. My element does have a crack in the middle of the frame in which the element sits on but it all has continuity. I am thinking about just replacing it all. My thermistor is reading a 10.80 but no codes. Please help
The element should be replaced if it has a crack in it, but it doesn't sound like the cause of your not heating problem. The next things to look at would be the power supply to the dryer, terminal block for burned wires, centrifugal switch in the the motor, and the main control board.
After replace all the thermostat and all the fuse ..even motor also But still my dryer fuse blown..what should I do next? Mother control board relay is problem?? Should I replace control mother board? Please help me….
hi, my inglis dryer had been broken belt, after i installed new belt, TS error code pop-up, i replaced thermistor i bought from reliable parts but the TS error code keep flashing, unplug for two minutes still they same. any idea?
Our dryer has had electrical issues. And will run, but not heat. We replaced a breaker, then it ran. Worked for a month. Now it’s not working again. 😭😭😭 so much money. Piece of crap. My husband had already replace the heating element and thermostat. Any other ideas?
@@PartsDr the electrician tested with the tester and it was around 238/40 He didn’t check the breaker again bc the readings were good. But twice of the same problem? I feel like it has to be replaced electrical, but my husband is going to try to put all the old pieces back in (he had replaced when we thought it was the pieces before we found out it was bad breaker
After replacing my heating element and all fuses I still have no heat at all. Should I assume at this point it's the control board? I have proper 240v coming to the machine.
@PartsDr thank you the response. I have an electrician coming to take a look at it. He's a good friend, hopefully he can trace the problem down. Is there something I could test to see if the motor is bad ? & and also the dryer starts and spins normally just without heat. I'm not sure if that changes anything.
@mexdal nope. I ended up buying a new control board and still not having any heat. I was sick to my stomach. At that point I wasn't wasting any more time or money. I got different new dryer
Please help . I have replaced all 5 things and still get no heat. I had made the element replace in the past and it worked . This time I have tried everything and am pretty annoyed . Anything else that could be the culprit? TIA
If your dryer is electric, check to make sure the dryer is receiving 220-240v and that there are not any burned or broken wires at the terminal block. ua-cam.com/video/51BIF28C_6I/v-deo.html
@@PartsDr bro you saved me it is the 220 wall plug that is kind of loose. I wiggled the wire when plugged in and heat came back . Will replace de wall plug that should do it. Thank you SO much
My dryer only dries on time dry, what may be the problem? I replaced the the heat element a couple of months ago and now I’m having this problem. Please help thank you!!
Most multimeters have a setting called "continuity". When set to the continuity setting, the multimeter will beep when there is continuity between the two probes of the multimeter.
I checked all heating related sensors and element. All checked out. I still replaced the element and all sensors. Still no heat. I ordered a new motor and installed, still no heat. I checked the relay and got 120V on both sides when running. Any ideas?
Yes, check the power supply to the dryer to ensure you have 220-240V and that you do not have any burned wires on the terminal block. It could also be a bad main control board.
@@PartsDr it was the power supply. Outlet actually. I checked before and it said 240. But after plugging in, it kept reading 90 on one plug. At least I now have an intimate knowledge of how dryers work. Lol. Thanks for all you do
My Samsung dryer is working fine with no error codes... but no heat at all on any of the dry settings. I checked the continuity test on the heating element and the 2 thermostats that are mounted on the heating element housing. They also test fine in terms of continuity. Now - I removed those and completely disassembled the housing to test everything. Does it matter when I put them back which of the 2 terminals of each of those thermostats gets the blue wire or the black wire? I'm not certain that I have them oriented the same on the housing as when I took out the housing?
I have the Samsung DV42H5200ep/ac, it just started doing this. The display works and you can select a mode but when pressing start it does not start even though the display says drying.. HELP please.. it is Like new.
Awsome video , so i replaced all the heating elements and sensors but my dryer still doesnt heat cloths. I can feel heat coming put the exhaust pipe but no heat inside. Any thoughts , also what happens if you put the wires on the heating element wrong. I had taken a picture before i took it appart bit since i replaced the parts i am not sure if the wires still go the same way
The two power wires can be connected in either order, it does not matter as there is no polarity. If there is heat in the exhaust pipe that would indicate that it is heating because the heat has to flow through the drum to get to the exhaust.
Hi Steven, I checked all sensors and changed the out Thermistor. It worked for one day, and it failed again. Changed it again, but it didn't work. The exhausts are clean. I searched all videos on UA-cam, but none of them has my Samsung Dryer Model DV50K7500GW/A3 except one video that changes only the High Limit Thermostat. You are the only one who talks about the codes, but how do you check them, or do they appear when something is wrong? I went to your website to buy the Thermistor. I found two with the same part number, but one is cheaper than the other. Please advise. I became a pro as much as I disassembled and assembled my dryer in one-week :D
@@PartsDr thanks allot for being so generous with information ,kindly help me am interested in learning how to build any circuit,kindly help with training sites/books
Check that your power cord is installed correctly and that the power at the outlet has 220-240V. If you only receive one side of the 240v, 120v it will turn on and run but not heat.
Learn how to disassemble your Samsung dryer here: ua-cam.com/video/yMm91uA-KUY/v-deo.html Learn how to replace the heating element on your Samsung dryer here: ua-cam.com/video/lbEtu8HFcHA/v-deo.html
I think this guy did an excellent job with describing how and what to check. He spoke slowly and clear enough so that I could understand him. Now I have to try and do what he recommends.
Great! Let us know what you find!
Thank you! This is exactly what I was searching for, straight forward no nonsense information on how to identify and test the components and what to look for.
You're welcome! We are happy we could help!
Thanks a lot. I went to samsung website. Never tell this one. I replace heat element. Not work again. Now I am try this. I am testing now
Thank you so much! Now I know exactly what to do before just buying a new heating element and possibly have it short out too! No nonsense instructions - that’s what I like!
Great, we are glad we could help! Did your dryer show an error code when the heating element failed?
I followed your video and found that one of the thermal fuses had no continuity, I removed it and started examining it to find a replacement part online, as I held it in my hand and typed the model number, it clicked! I accidentally pressed a reset switch that I did not notice.
I immediately checked continuity and found that it was good. Reinstalled the part and I'm back in business. Thank you so much for your instructions.
You made me look like a hero to my gf. I owe you a beer
Nice job fixing it yourself!
This is the best video I have found to help me troubleshoot my machine with great explanations. Thanks!
You're welcome! Let us know what you find and how your repair goes.
Excellent video. clear, and very helpful. We had a burnt wire, and I needed to know if it was from a bad connector, or faulty components. Each component tested out exactly as you described, so we will change the wire and see what happens!
From our experience, a burnt wire usually comes from a bad or loose connection.
P90p [)pL
80% of Most common problem people always run into is buying cheap generic parts from Amazon or ebay. People have to realize that you get what you pay for. Always use original quality parts even if you have to pay 10x more the price. Don’t use cheap chinese junk. Thanks for sharing your videos brotha and keep up the good work.
We 100% agree with you.
@@PartsDr what web site do you recommend to buy parts from. Same parts as seen in this video?
@@briankazibwe2673 You can buy Genuine OEM parts on our site partsdr.com
You often get what you pay for. However, before this absurd inflation, there was a nice middle ground between poor quality, undercutting products, and vastly overpriced products relying on vendor lock-in. I have faith in competition as long as good reviews are published.
I personally think the approach of sites like Project Farm gives us the best quality and price.
Yeah! Don't replace your cheap low quality Chinese junk parts! Replace your Chinese junk parts with expensive low quality Chinese junk parts! Makes sense!
looks like the black jumper wire's crimp corroded over the past 13 years and killed my fuse. Thanks to your video I found out that everything else is OK. Gotta get a new wire and fuse now.
Nice find! That can happen if the connection is loose.
Great video! What is cause when Samsung dryer does not completely dry thick towels? Heats up and thinner items are dried.
Check to make sure that your moisture sensor bars are clean ua-cam.com/video/9EEjcsHvYrk/v-deo.html and that the dryer and exhaust venting are free from obstructions.
I have checked all that you have suggested and still have blown 3 high temp thermal fuses on the heating element. I have replaced the coil even though is was not bad. There are no codes on the display. Also have checked and rechecked all sensors and they check out good. Dryer still runs just will not heat. How do I check for a bad control board? This is an awesome post! Thank you for the excellent instructions.
Usually you have to determine the main control board is bad by process of elimination. If you are continuing to blow thermal fuses on the heating element, that could indicate either a shorted heating element or a bad main control board. If you run the dryer on an air dry (no heat) cycle and the dryer continues to heat then you either have a bad main control board or shorted heating element.
The moisture sensor can also trip the thermo fuse. It’s located inside the drum in the front. You have to stick your head in there to see. If the drums turns blue, which means they use to much fabric softener and coated the sensor. This will cause your dryer to prematurely shut off early too. Wipe it down with graffiti remover and your good to go.
Thank you for this video! I have a Samsung dve45t3400p/a3 that is not turning on at all, no display or anything. I’ve verified that 240v are coming to the dryer from the outlet and completed all the tests in this video successfully, but still no power. Could it be a bad main control board at this point?
Did you check the terminal block for any burned or broken wires?
The terminal block being the panel on the back with the wires connecting from the power cord to the dryer? Yes those are fine and I tested them with the multimeter as well and all was good. Thank you for the quick reply by the way! I’ve been sitting here all day troubleshooting so you’re right here with me lol
@@ethangaddis181 It sounds like you are probably looking at either a bad main control board or a bad user interface control board.
Thanks so much for the advice! Any ideas how I might be able to further troubleshoot to determine which of those might be the actual problem?
Was able to determine my heating element was out. Thanks!!!
Great!!!
@@PartsDr replaced mine by It seems to hot akin the back very hot
Great information, very well presented. Thank you. ❤😊
You're welcome! We are happy that we could help!
So I tested everything on my dryer, only component that didn’t pass was the thermal fuse. Vent & blower was clear, not sure about the main control board yet, but everything else passed with flying colors. Is it possible the thermal fuse just went bad on its own? Would it be ok to replace the fuse by itself with no other components?
It is very likely that something caused the dryer to overheat and the fuse to blow. Check the exhaust venting for any restrictions and test the heating element for shorts. Also, try running the dryer on an air dry (no heat) cycle to see if it heats up.
@@PartsDr thank you for replying so quick. I tested the heating element for shorts and continuity and all was fine. Also the thermister and other t-stat on the blower assembly. We did have a buildup of my wifes hair that may have been causing the blower blades to struggle spinning. I replaced the thermal fuse and its working as it should right now on air dry and regular heating.
@@leesplbg Glad you got it fixed and running again! If the fuse blows again, you may have a bad main control board and one of the relays that controls the heat could be sticking on. Hopefully it doesn't require anything further.
@@leesplbgis everything still running smoothly since your last repair?
Thank you so much. Your video was so helpful.
You're welcome! We are happy that we could help!
My dryer still runs but with no heat switched the high limit thermostat but not the high limit thermal fuse. Could it be that??!
My Samsung dryer seems to be heating hotter than normal when set to extra low temperature. I checked these things and they seem to be working per your video. What else could be causing this?
Same what happens o your dryer
My dryer display is not turning ON, and the display dosen't show anything. I am sure it gets power because the door lamp turns on and I checked and found that the plug and cord are fine. How could I check and see the broken part? Is this due to bad thermal fuse? Thank you.
If the dryer is electric, you should still verify that you have power to the dryer. With a 240v dryer it is possible to get only one side of the power 120v which can make it look like the dryer is getting power but it is only getting half of it.
Best you saved us 👍
Great! Which part was causing your problem?
Thank you for this video! Very helpful.
You're welcome! Did you find which part was causing the problem?
@@PartsDr Yes, it was the heating coil that broke. My replacement part kit came with the sensors and fuse so I swapped those out as well.
@@kraigseder Great! Nice job fixing it yourself!
Hey ..just came across your channel I have a kenmore dryer that's keeps shutting off about 1 min after coming on ...What could be the issue
The two most common things that we see cause those types of symptoms are a bad motor or bad control board (if applicable).
@Parts Dr Thanks did some digging up it may really be a board issue because it runs for about 4 mins with no heat beeps and then shuts down
Can you make a video on checking ge board?
We will pass your request on to our video production team.
My Samsung dryer's heating element shorted out ( the heating coil wire was touching the metal frame of the heating element). There was a burn mark on the metal. The Dryer shut down and will not power up at all.. No display, No lights, No power and it did not throw the breaker. I am wondering if the whole thing is fried now? Will the thermal fuses cause the whole unit to shut down? Is there another fuse somewhere that protects the whole machine?
A blown thermal fuse does not usually act that way. There is not a fuse that protects the whole machine that we have seen. Sometimes a shorted element will damage the main control board.
Learn how to disassemble your Samsung dryer here: ua-cam.com/video/yMm91uA-KUY/v-deo.html
Learn how to replace the heating element on your Samsung dryer here: ua-cam.com/video/lbEtu8HFcHA/v-deo.html
Have a dryer that the element won't heat. When you turn it on plugged in 120v reaches the element fine when you turn the dryer on heat and turn it on. The thermal switches have no resistance when turned off as they should. The element tests good as it has 10 ohm resistance and does not short to ground. There's no apparent physical problem with the element. There's a light blue wire running down towards the motor that seems to have a short to ground but I'm not sure if that's normal being it goes to the motor windings. Seems like I remember that motor wires will show a short to ground. The motor works great. Is there some way that the element could actually be bad anyway? What would be your recommendation to do in this situation? How can the element test good, have 120v going to it, but not heat? Anyone have a clue if the element is bad anyway or is there something else that could cause this?
My newly installed heating element out is showing 13.3 ohms. All the other parts tested good, but the dryer still isn't producing heat. Could the resistance be too high at 13.3 to not allow the dryer to heat up?
No, it should still heat up at 13.3 ohms. There must be something else causing your no heat problem. Check into the power supply to the dryer, the motor centrifugal switch, and the main control board.
Great post and information! I have checked all 5 components listed in this video and they all check out good. I have not reassembled and tried it again, but it was not heating when I took it apart. Thoughts?
We would check to make sure the dryer has proper power supply 220-240v (make sure there are no burned wires at the terminal block). If the power is good then you could have a bad motor or main control board causing the dryer to not heat.
@@PartsDr thanks for the info. I cleaned everything up and put it back together. The Digital display is working and the dryer looks like it's running when you press play but it will not run now. I make sure everything was connected when I put it back together. I checked the power coming in the outlet, each hot got 121v and then both got 243v. Checked the wires from cord going into dryer, perfect condition. How do you test for motor or control board?
@@PartsDr how do you test tye control board to see if it's good ?
Hi this is my second time trying this. All new heating element but still no heat? Took apart again and using my manual ohm meter I can’t get a reading from the element itself? Could I have ordered a bad heating element?
It's not likely that a new heating element would be bad out of the box.
@@PartsDr the heating element isn’t giving me a reading past 1 so that would mean the element is bad correct?
I have over heating issue with HE error code on my Samsung dryer. I did everything you said, but I’m still facing the issue. Heating element is good and fuses and thermistor are good. Read ohms and they were in the range they are supposed to be. I purchased a new mother board I’m hoping that fixes my issue. Any ideas or thoughts? Ty
Check to make sure you have 220-240v to the dryer. Look for burned wires on the terminal block. It could also be a bad main control board or a bad centrifugal switch in the drive motor.
Tks partsdr…❤
You're welcome!
I replaced the heating element and still no heat? Do I need to take apart again to replace thermostat or blower fuse?
You will need to test the parts to see what has failed.
My Samsung dryer wasn’t stopping when it was turned off so I unhooked the cords from the motherboard or computer and it worked fine for about two months. Now there’s no heat. I’ve replace the thermal fuse and thermostat and heating element and still no heat
Check to make sure you have 220-240v to the dryer. Look for burned wires on the terminal block. It could also be a bad main control board or a bad centrifugal switch in the drive motor.
How do you check the thermester on the blower?
We have a video on testing the thermistor here: ua-cam.com/video/Ru3Ue6OFZ9c/v-deo.html
Where do you find these parts?
You can purchase genuine Samsung dryer parts on our site partsdr.com
Learn how to disassemble your Samsung dryer here: ua-cam.com/video/yMm91uA-KUY/v-deo.html
Learn how to replace the heating element on your Samsung dryer here: ua-cam.com/video/lbEtu8HFcHA/v-deo.html
Well done video. Excellent job.
Thank you!
I have checked everything you stated. The element is reading 9 to 10 ohms and the thermistor is a bit over 10 ohms but drops when I touch the middle part with my finger when I have the meter attach to the ends. The thermostat and the thermostat fuse beep when I test the continuity. My element does have a crack in the middle of the frame in which the element sits on but it all has continuity. I am thinking about just replacing it all. My thermistor is reading a 10.80 but no codes. Please help
The element should be replaced if it has a crack in it, but it doesn't sound like the cause of your not heating problem. The next things to look at would be the power supply to the dryer, terminal block for burned wires, centrifugal switch in the the motor, and the main control board.
It helped that I had this same dryer
Great! Did you find the cause of the dryer not heating?
After replace all the thermostat and all the fuse ..even motor also
But still my dryer fuse blown..what should I do next? Mother control board relay is problem??
Should I replace control mother board?
Please help me….
If the dryer heats up on an air dry (no heat) cycle, then the main control board could be bad or the dryer heating element may be shorted.
hi, my inglis dryer had been broken belt, after i installed new belt, TS error code pop-up, i replaced thermistor i bought from reliable parts but the TS error code keep flashing, unplug for two minutes still they same. any idea?
What is the model number of your dryer and what is the part number that you replaced?
Our dryer has had electrical issues. And will run, but not heat. We replaced a breaker, then it ran. Worked for a month. Now it’s not working again. 😭😭😭 so much money. Piece of crap. My husband had already replace the heating element and thermostat. Any other ideas?
Since your original issue was a problem with the breaker, we would start by looking to make sure the power supply to the dryer is good.
@@PartsDr the electrician tested with the tester and it was around 238/40 He didn’t check the breaker again bc the readings were good. But twice of the same problem? I feel like it has to be replaced electrical, but my husband is going to try to put all the old pieces back in (he had replaced when we thought it was the pieces before we found out it was bad breaker
@@hberrysc3517 It sounds like the electrician confirmed that the dryer has adequate power. Make sure to test all of the things shown in this video.
After replacing my heating element and all fuses I still have no heat at all. Should I assume at this point it's the control board? I have proper 240v coming to the machine.
Usually it comes down to the motor (the centrifugal switch can fail inside the motor) or the main control board if you have ruled everything else out.
@PartsDr thank you the response. I have an electrician coming to take a look at it. He's a good friend, hopefully he can trace the problem down. Is there something I could test to see if the motor is bad ? & and also the dryer starts and spins normally just without heat. I'm not sure if that changes anything.
@@YZ-LP22hi, did you find the problem after?
@mexdal nope. I ended up buying a new control board and still not having any heat. I was sick to my stomach. At that point I wasn't wasting any more time or money. I got different new dryer
Please help . I have replaced all 5 things and still get no heat. I had made the element replace in the past and it worked . This time I have tried everything and am pretty annoyed . Anything else that could be the culprit? TIA
If your dryer is electric, check to make sure the dryer is receiving 220-240v and that there are not any burned or broken wires at the terminal block. ua-cam.com/video/51BIF28C_6I/v-deo.html
@@PartsDr bro you saved me it is the 220 wall plug that is kind of loose. I wiggled the wire when plugged in and heat came back .
Will replace de wall plug that should do it. Thank you SO much
@@ezekias6 Awesome! Glad we could help!
My dryer only dries on time dry, what may be the problem? I replaced the the heat element a couple of months ago and now I’m having this problem. Please help thank you!!
What happens when the dryer is run on an automatic cycle?
@@PartsDr stays cold and doesn’t dry them
Did a continuity test on the Moisture sensor and it seems to be working.
@@ericarcidiacono9936 Also check the wiring from the moisture sensor to the main board. It could be a problem with the main control board?
@@PartsDr Ok Thanks!!
"Multimeter needs to beep" I've never had one that beeps, what does that indicate, that the circuit is closed (current flowing)?
Most multimeters have a setting called "continuity". When set to the continuity setting, the multimeter will beep when there is continuity between the two probes of the multimeter.
I checked all heating related sensors and element. All checked out. I still replaced the element and all sensors. Still no heat. I ordered a new motor and installed, still no heat. I checked the relay and got 120V on both sides when running. Any ideas?
Yes, check the power supply to the dryer to ensure you have 220-240V and that you do not have any burned wires on the terminal block. It could also be a bad main control board.
@@PartsDr it was the power supply. Outlet actually. I checked before and it said 240. But after plugging in, it kept reading 90 on one plug. At least I now have an intimate knowledge of how dryers work. Lol. Thanks for all you do
@@kelltrad6127 Glad you figured it out! Thanks for sharing
Excellent and concise
We are glad you found it helpful!
My Samsung dryer is working fine with no error codes... but no heat at all on any of the dry settings. I checked the continuity test on the heating element and the 2 thermostats that are mounted on the heating element housing. They also test fine in terms of continuity. Now - I removed those and completely disassembled the housing to test everything. Does it matter when I put them back which of the 2 terminals of each of those thermostats gets the blue wire or the black wire? I'm not certain that I have them oriented the same on the housing as when I took out the housing?
In this video we show where the wires connect to the terminals here: ua-cam.com/video/lbEtu8HFcHA/v-deo.html
I have the Samsung DV42H5200ep/ac, it just started doing this.
The display works and you can select a mode but when pressing start it does not start even though the display says drying.. HELP please.. it is Like new.
Check to see if you have a broken belt ua-cam.com/video/mKGCKq-APxE/v-deo.html
Awsome video , so i replaced all the heating elements and sensors but my dryer still doesnt heat cloths. I can feel heat coming put the exhaust pipe but no heat inside. Any thoughts , also what happens if you put the wires on the heating element wrong. I had taken a picture before i took it appart bit since i replaced the parts i am not sure if the wires still go the same way
The two power wires can be connected in either order, it does not matter as there is no polarity. If there is heat in the exhaust pipe that would indicate that it is heating because the heat has to flow through the drum to get to the exhaust.
That's what happens when me, it had great when I was touching it but clothes were not drying, and there's no lint in the pipes.
Mine keeps displaying "clean filter" checked the duct on it and it was clean, as is the filter. No heat
The "clean filter" may not relate to your no heat issue. We would start by checking the things shown in this video.
Hi Steven, I checked all sensors and changed the out Thermistor. It worked for one day, and it failed again. Changed it again, but it didn't work. The exhausts are clean.
I searched all videos on UA-cam, but none of them has my Samsung Dryer Model DV50K7500GW/A3 except one video that changes only the High Limit Thermostat.
You are the only one who talks about the codes, but how do you check them, or do they appear when something is wrong?
I went to your website to buy the Thermistor. I found two with the same part number, but one is cheaper than the other. Please advise.
I became a pro as much as I disassembled and assembled my dryer in one-week :D
I’m sure you figured it out by now but one is an off brand the other is the Samsung part.
Great
Happy to help!
Thank you
You're welcome!
@@PartsDr thanks allot for being so generous with information ,kindly help me am interested in learning how to build any circuit,kindly help with training sites/books
using analog circuits
Thanks.
You're welcome! What did you find that was causing your dryer to not heat up?
I replece all of those… still doesn’t heat… what am doing wrong? On my Samsung dryer…
Have you checked the power supply to the dryer?
@@PartsDr you mean if turn on and off… cause the only thing it does just don’t dry clothes…
I just got a brand new Samsung dryer and it’s all hooked up and I’ve got no heat coming from it.
Check that your power cord is installed correctly and that the power at the outlet has 220-240V. If you only receive one side of the 240v, 120v it will turn on and run but not heat.
Right before our dryer stopped heating it wouldn't stop on its own Ave it would just keep drying
It would’ve been nice if you showed us where to find this component. Lol.
Learn how to disassemble your Samsung dryer here: ua-cam.com/video/yMm91uA-KUY/v-deo.html
Learn how to replace the heating element on your Samsung dryer here: ua-cam.com/video/lbEtu8HFcHA/v-deo.html
Excellent video. One recommendation for better educational value is to do your videos shirtless.
deleted after watching video 2nd time thru - thanks
Everything on my dryer checks out proper voltage Everything is good. It worked at one house but now throws a l2 code. Makes absolutely no sense
We would check to make sure the power cord and outlet are wired correctly.