Solid video, thanks! Should the output water match your U/L theromstats and if they don't does that suggest a problem with your water heater or pipe insulation? Mine currently is set at 135F and the water output is roughly 110F.
QUESTION: my house is a 15 years old manufactured home, with 5 bedrooms and 3 full bathrooms, lately the plastic pen under the water heater has some water on it, so I know that the 15 year old water heater is about to quit, the model I have is rheem 50 gallons 240 volts, 3500 watts. They don't make that model anymore. will 50 gallons 3800 watts be compatible with my double 20 amps breakers? I would appreciate your answer!! thank you!!!!!!!
UEi DL369 Digital Clamp Meter HVAC Auto-Ranging 4000 Counts Volt Meter AC Amp Meter Measures AC Current AC/DC Voltage & Microamps Capacitance Resistance Diodes NCV Continuity Tester Live Wire Test a.co/d/iT3LhG3
Hey buddy, So I just replaced my 2014 50g electric Rheem, with the same exact updated model… the big yellow efficiency sticker says $489/year, which is almost $120 less than the same sticker on the old unit… putting the actual price paid for electricity aside, I’m assuming that estimated low number is for the factory setting right? The new one has both top and bottom set to 100 degrees, the old water heater would scald you at full hot(i just bought this house last year, former owners had it turned way up) which sucked, but I’m thinking 100 is not enough… anyways, is there any formula to calculate the increased power consumption from 100 to say 125? I live in California where power is outrageously expensive right now so every kWh I can save helps…
We always set them to about 120°. But also those stickers are wildly inaccurate. They don't know what your rates are. My rates are $0.05/kwh and yours are likely over $0.45/kwh. So there's no way those stickers could be accurate.
@@SmedleyPlumbing that was quick man thanks. Yeah the sticker estimates at $0.14/kwh, and I do realize that my actual numbers will be different than the sticker based on my rates. I guess what I’m trying to figure out is, not so much dollar amounts right now but the percentage of increase in power consumption, like changing it from 100 to 120 degrees makes it run 40% longer or 3 times as long or 10 times more often in a 24hr period… Does that make sense? I’ve never paid attention to it, but my pge bill is always high and now that the sticker made me think about it, I think a lot of it was because the old WH was turned up so high. I guess I need to get on pge website, they probably have calculators and such to plug numbers into… but thanks for your time man, really appreciate it
i have a 30 gallon 1 element 3800w water heater in manufactured home. 120 was to cold. i run at 140*. no kids and 140 is not to hot just need to pay attention.
@@SmedleyPlumbing old timers told me 150*f was norm in1950s-1960s. am tempted to go to 145* at 140 it get low on hot water but not out it recovers slow do to 1 3800w element. how much faster is 2 elements over 1? water heter is new so not going to replace. but when it gos i will go to duel 3800w.
@@SmedleyPlumbingI just got a new electric water heater and my water only gets warm...not remotely hot so I'm watching this to go and investigate and possibly make an adjustment
Great video, a big help to a dum dum like me. I knew the water in my apt was super hot, and I just found out that it was set to about 150! So i lowered it down to around 120. However, I noticed that my bottom gauge doesn't have any insulation at all. Is there somewhere I can buy replacement insulation? Could I use regular Styrofoam, or is that dangerous? Thank you for your help!
I'm also thinking perhaps something like this could work: www.homedepot.com/p/Knauf-Insulation-R-6-7-EcoRoll-Unfaced-Multi-Purpose-Insulation-Roll-2-in-x-16-in-x-48-in-660819/309951681 And I'll just adjust the insulation to fit. However, now I'm learning about and looking into R Values to make sure this would be acceptable, since it seems low.
Perfect, just what I needed. Direct and to the point, thank you.
Glad it helped!
Great video, helped me feel confident to adjust the heat. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Thank you Sir! Very helpful! God bless.
Happy to help!
Thank you! Was able to adjust mine without issue
Glad it helped!
Thank you for the informative video. Please keep ‘em coming
Will do!
So there's no power switch on the water heater? You have to turn it off at the breaker before adjusting?
Typically yes
@@SmedleyPlumbing okay! Thank you for your response and for the video.
I just did ares with the power on.Dont tell my mom.😂
Solid video, thanks! Should the output water match your U/L theromstats and if they don't does that suggest a problem with your water heater or pipe insulation? Mine currently is set at 135F and the water output is roughly 110F.
It's kind of relative. The settings are a close guess but they will usually be off a bit from what you get at the faucet.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
If i want to set it to vacation mode, do i turn the white dial counterclockwise? Going away for a week.
Just leave it alone. Your water heater doesn't cost much at all to sit there idle.
QUESTION: my house is a 15 years old manufactured home, with 5 bedrooms and 3 full bathrooms, lately the plastic pen under the water heater has some water on it, so I know that the 15 year old water heater is about to quit, the model I have is rheem 50 gallons 240 volts, 3500 watts.
They don't make that model anymore. will 50 gallons 3800 watts be compatible with my double 20 amps breakers? I would appreciate your answer!! thank you!!!!!!!
You sure it's not a 30 amp double pole breaker?
@@SmedleyPlumbing yes! it's two 20s with a metal piece on top!
What kind of multimeter is that brand etc?
UEi DL369 Digital Clamp Meter HVAC Auto-Ranging 4000 Counts Volt Meter AC Amp Meter Measures AC Current AC/DC Voltage & Microamps Capacitance Resistance Diodes NCV Continuity Tester Live Wire Test a.co/d/iT3LhG3
Hey buddy, So I just replaced my 2014 50g electric Rheem, with the same exact updated model… the big yellow efficiency sticker says $489/year, which is almost $120 less than the same sticker on the old unit… putting the actual price paid for electricity aside, I’m assuming that estimated low number is for the factory setting right? The new one has both top and bottom set to 100 degrees, the old water heater would scald you at full hot(i just bought this house last year, former owners had it turned way up) which sucked, but I’m thinking 100 is not enough… anyways, is there any formula to calculate the increased power consumption from 100 to say 125? I live in California where power is outrageously expensive right now so every kWh I can save helps…
We always set them to about 120°. But also those stickers are wildly inaccurate. They don't know what your rates are. My rates are $0.05/kwh and yours are likely over $0.45/kwh. So there's no way those stickers could be accurate.
@@SmedleyPlumbing that was quick man thanks.
Yeah the sticker estimates at $0.14/kwh, and I do realize that my actual numbers will be different than the sticker based on my rates. I guess what I’m trying to figure out is, not so much dollar amounts right now but the percentage of increase in power consumption, like changing it from 100 to 120 degrees makes it run 40% longer or 3 times as long or 10 times more often in a 24hr period… Does that make sense? I’ve never paid attention to it, but my pge bill is always high and now that the sticker made me think about it, I think a lot of it was because the old WH was turned up so high. I guess I need to get on pge website, they probably have calculators and such to plug numbers into… but thanks for your time man, really appreciate it
@@SmedleyPlumbing I subbed for ya
If you don’t take the white cover off do you still need to cut the power off?
Probably not
What if there is no thermostat on the upper? Only a reset button on the lower?
Same diagnostic process applies
Only need to change temp on bottom thermostat!
Both stats should be set the same even though most of the temp is set from the bottom stat.
i have a 30 gallon 1 element 3800w water heater in manufactured home. 120 was to cold. i run at 140*. no kids and 140 is not to hot just need to pay attention.
Yeah when the unit is undersized, sometimes people will bump the temperature up.
@@SmedleyPlumbing old timers told me 150*f was norm in1950s-1960s. am tempted to go to 145* at 140 it get low on hot water but not out it recovers slow do to 1 3800w element. how much faster is 2 elements over 1? water heter is new so not going to replace. but when it gos i will go to duel 3800w.
@jakemichael8586 only one element runs at a time. So dual element heaters don't recover any faster.
@@SmedleyPlumbingI just got a new electric water heater and my water only gets warm...not remotely hot so I'm watching this to go and investigate and possibly make an adjustment
Do I need to turn anything off before I adjust it?
Nope!
He said turn the power to the heater off, at the breaker.
Can you adjust the temp without turning the breaker off?
Yes you can.
Thank you. I only have 1 adjuster on my tank and it only goes down to 140 🤔
Sounds like you might have a commercial unit or a boiler
Why are some wires on top of the insultaion...do they need to be???
Some hold the insulation in place.
Great video, a big help to a dum dum like me. I knew the water in my apt was super hot, and I just found out that it was set to about 150! So i lowered it down to around 120. However, I noticed that my bottom gauge doesn't have any insulation at all. Is there somewhere I can buy replacement insulation? Could I use regular Styrofoam, or is that dangerous? Thank you for your help!
I'm also thinking perhaps something like this could work: www.homedepot.com/p/Knauf-Insulation-R-6-7-EcoRoll-Unfaced-Multi-Purpose-Insulation-Roll-2-in-x-16-in-x-48-in-660819/309951681
And I'll just adjust the insulation to fit. However, now I'm learning about and looking into R Values to make sure this would be acceptable, since it seems low.
You can just used any fiberglass insulation. Just don't pack it in there too tightly.
@@SmedleyPlumbing Thanks pal!
Wby cant i see the replys to these good questions??? Grrr
thanks fam
You're welcome!
I set mine at 140 cause the we always run out of hot water and it’s a 60gal
That's manageable as long as there are no children in the home that could get burned from not knowing how to work the water taps.
sorry for your loss but no i will not be disarmed.
Huh?
Lol. Bot program error.
Lmao @@SmedleyPlumbing