Power steering issue. I’ve had two of these 05 now 06 both had power steering issues around 170,000 miles. Will start with visible leak or if caught early just overflow, when you check the fluid you will see bubbles or froth. 7$ o-ring to fix the issue early. Also may stem from power steering fluid not being changed; I honestly thought it was supposed to be black 😂 This fixed the groaning sound and trouble with power steering cold winter mornings, leak appears to have stopped etc. If you catch it later pumps are only ~75$ from what I’ve seen. But if you let it go like that it’ll fuck the alternator from it leaking onto it. The o-ring job is super easy fix. Surprised it wasn’t mentioned cause it’s a common issues from what I can tell. At least Honda knew too and put the pump right in the top of the engine bay for East access. CHANGE YOUR POWER STEERING FLUID Y’ALL
I was just thinking about that, thank you. I just got my CRV and it's so jolty and weird. I thought it was electornic. I was very surprised to see it is hydraulic. My Altima was smooth as butter. This is probably my only complaint about the CRV. PLus it's bumpy as hell. But that's ok for a SUV.
Common Issues for Honda CR-V 2nd Generation 2002-2006: 0:50 Noise coming from rear differential due to differential fluid going bad 1:13 Check Engine light due to faulty Air-Fuel Ratio Sensor 1:34 Check Engine light due to a loose fuel cap 2:08 Vibration while you're driving due to Universal Joint on the drive shaft going bad 2:37 Vibration from the engine due to faulty Engine Mount 3:00 The Black Death: The A/C Compressor fails from the inside out, metal shavings contaminating the entire A/C system
I used to own a 2005 CRV EX. It was the best vehicle I ever owned and I thought I would keep it forever, even though I had the A/C problem mentioned and l also needed to change the rear differential fluid. Other than those issues it was a great vehicle. Then in 2016 the unthinkable happened, I was rear-ended on the freeway and my beautiful CRV was totaled. I have checked out the newer models of the CRV, and they have nice features, but I liked the full-size spare tire and the folding table built in the trunk of the car. These features no longer exist in new models and it is disappointing.
condolences for your loss fellow CRV brethren. I had an '06 that got totaled as well. Ended up getting decent enough of an insurance payout to fully cover a great deal I found on an '05 in better condition, so it feels great to be back on the 2nd generation CRV train
I feel you and I’m so sorry for your loss. I have a 2006 CRV SE & it’s the best vehicle I’ve ever owned. I’ve always driven Hondas but this thing is something special. The room in the back is amazing, I take the rear seats out & road trip in it a lot. Even with the seats in and folded up I can fit so much stuff in this thing. An entire IKEA sofa! In boxes of course…but still! My AC did stop blowing cold a few mos ago & it cost my $1900 to fix BUT it was a dealership so was extra expensive & I live in central TX so AC is non negotiable. My brake lights are stuck on atm so I’m here on YT figuring that out.
I had a 2002, was a fantastic car, never let me down. I also got rear ended and it twisted the car, i have moved to a proper 4x4 but will never forget the reliability it offered.
335k on my 2006.. never had any of those issues.. I do regularly maintain all fluids.. Amazing daily driver.. I'll never have another as reliable as this has been
Our family used to own one until we traded it in for our Prius V back in 2016. If we hadn't traded it in, it would've been mine in high school. I loved that car. It was synonymous with my entire childhood and teen years.
I have a 2003 with 176,000 miles. Served my family well. I passed it on to my son who drove it through high-school and college. Now my daughter is driving it in college. Only thing that doesn't work is the power door locks. Great car.
2002 almost at 200k miles. Family has owned since 40k miles. Only had to replace starter, cat, o2 sensors, and a door actuator. Still on original clutch! Very reliable and fun on dirt roads
Coming up on 375,000km on my 2006 CRV, finally replacing the battery today as it is starting to show signs of being low. Other than breaks and a headlight, I've never had any issues or had to put any money into it. 🤙
Had mine ten years. Now showing 300,000kms. Solid car, never fails to start, never overheats and has never broken down. Original exhaust and wheel bearings, steering etc. At this mileage most of the suspension has been worked on, aim for all the rubber bushes and shock absorbers after 150,000miles (250,000kms etc). Lower ball joints also fail pretty consistently. One broken rear spring and the starters get gummed up and need a clean if the bendix starts sticking. 2003 years need to watch the exhaust camshaft, they were made out of cheese for a while and they pit like hell with no indication of a problem. You'll most likely find it when you check the valve clearances when you get bored one day.... Go on then, ask me how I know lol! Apparently a hardening issue affected this years camshafts. Don't know what happens if you just ignore it. Could be they'd manage to see out the life of the car. I swapped mine with a good second hand one. Vague steering (assuming suspension etc. okay) can be adjusted via a nut on the back of the rack. Need a special tool/large spanner (40mm I think)and 14mm one to nip up the slipper (free it up, then run it up to pinch tight and then back off 20 degrees). Tons of CRV racks have been binned when they just needed this 'secret' adjustment. My brake calliper pistons started to rust and stick at about 275,000kms. Calliper internals were as new. Buy seal and piston kits to get the car rolling like new. Generally pretty heavy on brake parts but cheap and easy to fix. Rear brake shields rust out so just remove them (they are a part of the rear hub so replacing them is not worth the effort). Changing the auto fluid (ATF) is a bit stupid, need to do it three times with a drive in between. Worth it though for the smoothest gearbox I've ever had. Engine revs like it really wants to and pulls like a train right around to the red line. Pretty nimble for a SUV. Every time I go thorough the two year inspection I say, this will be the last time, and yet here I am lol! Love the CRV, best space on the road for the money.
I have an 03 with 138K and it runs beautifully. No a/ c problems or other complaints listed here. Handling, suspension, reliability and cabin headroom are best of all time for C-SUVs. What's a problem is the road noise, which drives me crazy when I'm driving on concrete highway surfaces. I give it a 9/10 for CSUVs of this era.
I currently own an ‘04 CrV… bought it new. Damn near 400,000 miles on it. Most problem free vehicle that I’ve ever owned. Still runs great. Better in snow than ANY 4 wheel drive truck! Would buy another if I could!!
@@ayegeetee I am the original owner of my CRV. I have done all service work, on a regular basis, by myself. Of course your typical mechanical parts wear out over time. Just recently, it seems like I’ve been replacing quite a bit of stuff. But, a few parts here and there, beats the hell out of paying what vehicles are going for nowadays. And I know everything that has been done to it, too. A few things just recently though; driveshaft, front o2 sensor, front and rear sway bar links and bushings, variable valve timing solenoid, replaced idle air control valve, air intake hose, front and rear strut assembly, ball joints… all I can think of recently. Best vehicle I’ve ever owned. It uses about a quart of oil over a 5,000 mile service span. Original transmission, motor, exhaust, and entire cooling system. The a/c system needs replaced, but I don’t feel like dropping 1,000 bucks for it right now.
@@jeffh.2509that's awesome! I purchased an '06 over 2 years ago and it runs fine over 276k miles. I'm also the second owner. All I had to do was change out the ball joints and outer tie rods. Did you have any head gasket issues with yours?
@@paulgermano7837 Same. 2006, around 300K. Two years ago I did front end work. Went through the Black Death problem three times (= about $6,000), but that wouldn't even pay for the taxes on a new one. I've babied it oil changes at 3K, fluid changes/flushes in advance of the recommendations. I'm going to keep throwing repairs at it until I get to a million miles.
As an (ex?) owner of a 2002 CRV, I just would like to add: watch your engine oil, the oil warning light never came on, I was driving on low oil and stretched the chain (it did finish the final 1500 km trip before stalling though). Ac seized up long time ago. My personal annoyances were failing and noisy shocks at 250 000 kms, also around the same time a front wheel bearing went and when inspected, they were still factory original from 2002. Also I had experienced fuel economy worsen over time. This little car is like a honda civic with a bigger chassis and AWD so it is reliable transportation with space for hauling. Watch your oil people. I had 350 000 kms on it when I took on the final 1500 km trip.
Oh man, I'm barely at 240k. And so far the only serious repairs I did was replace, Alternator, starter, replaced AC compressor with a fake dummy pulley, timing chain, thermostat and radiator. Your right about the suspension parts, mine are starting to sound very noisy. And the oil levels, I found that within the timing cover, there were gaskets that had hairline cracks, plus the gasket behind the crankshaft was too degraded. So far everything is running okay when I bought it used at 160k.
@@Ruben901 to be honest I drive like an idiot. Not dangerous, just not according to the age and condition of the car. My mistakes. It did what it had to do, I bought it with around 200 000 kms, 2.5 years ago for $2000 CaD, probably spent another 1500 on maintenance during that time. It was a beater to run around. I did almost all city driving before I moved east, almost every day: started 15-20 times, two trips down and up an escarpment, driven in challenging weather every winter and it has never let me down or stranded. It did not stop breathing until it finished the long trip, as my buddy has predicted was gonna happen, if it was gonna happen. At 350k and knowing the abuse and stuff... something was bound to happen.
The rear diff requires Honda Dual Pump II fluid for the dual pump system. The manual says to change it at 60K miles. My dealer said to change it at 30K miles. It only takes a quart, so I change it at 15K miles and have had no problems with my 1999 CR-V and 2006 Element and both have manual transmissions (I change the gearbox fluid at 30K miles.) with engines run at high revs. I bought these vehicles new and have had no problems at all with the drive systems.
There was a recall on my CRV about the AC in the USA. The dealer fixed my '04 in 2008, replacing the entire system. No problems since and it's now at 143K in 2022. I want to change my transmission fluid for the first time but it's still pink. One engine cooling fan failed in 2021 and my mechanic replaced both.
Don't forget worn sway bar stabilizer end links, worn brake caliper pins. Both cause all kinds of clunking noises. Also keep transmission fluid changed in automatic models to prevent torque converter shudder.
For some reason those slide pins always get seized on the rear calipers. Scary when your pedal goes to the floor when braking. Common on the element as well.
I’ve now had a 2005, a 2004, and 2006 CR-V. All hit over 250k miles and I never wanted to get rid of the first two, but other careless drivers gave me no option after totaling them. Only consistent problem I had with all 3: Air Compressor systems all failed, probably due to excessive usage (by me) and being 15+ years old. Other consistent problem: Broken front CV axles. I take blame on those also, I drove ambitiously in my early days. I now have a 2006 and have customized it exactly how I want and it suits my lifestyle perfectly. Great adventure vehicle (within reason), great daily driver, and surprisingly great on gas mileage for the year model it is. Make sure to stay on top of al regular maintenance intervals and these vehicles are amazing.
Stumbled upon this video while looking for a gen 2. Great info! One ad i looked at posted that the AC was out and needs to be recharged with refrigerant. Might be more serious than that according to your video.. Thanks!
Moe B gen1 is more reliable than gen2. Gen1 was built in Japan only and Honda wanted to impress customers by making something indestructible. Indeed they succeeded. Gen1 still has common problems such as main relay, ignition coil in the distributor, burnt contacts on the ignition, tranny slips between second and third, and burnt valves if not adjusted at appropriate intervals. Do not forget that it needs a timing belt service every 80k. But oh boy if you cover all the issues above you have a rock solid runner. On the other side gen2 has timing chain and really really good k24 engine. However, general reliability of the built feels cheaper and breaks more often. I did work in a Honda dealer at some point in my life ☺️ as a tech, plus I own gen1 for the last 4 years
@@mitotsvetkov3447 idk I can’t find any Gen 1s that don’t leak oil, maybe it’s because all the well maintained ones aren’t being sold or other people nab em quickly!
Pretty accurate. I've had to do the engine mounts and compressor (twice!). With the engine mounts make sure you get the correct mounts for an automatic or manual transmission.
@@joezuerlein the last one I had repaired. They had to replace everything. The repaired vehicle Ac only lasted a year. I don't know if it was the shop or a leak.
There are a couple other items to add. Front lower control arm compliance bushings fail due to design will wear out exceptionally fast if driven on rough roads, They will eat tires if not fixed, they can be pressed out and replaced but most shops will just opt to replace the lower control arms as it's a faster and more expensive bill. If you have the tools to do it yourself it's like $80 for the parts. Vtech solinoids have a tendancy to fail (you had one pictured during the AC compressor part) and will create a bucking during acceleration when they get stuck (worst offender is the one on the rear of the engine, it will also leak oil from that location as well. Typically happens after or around the time the PCV valve fails so change that too. MAKE SURE TO USE Genuine HONDA PARTS! I cannot stress this enough! Though you do not need/want Honda parts for engine/transmission mounts as in additon to higher prices they are more prone to failure due to being fluid filled. (solid rubber parts will not dampen the engine as much but will last just as long and are at maximum half the cost)
from the gen 2 if you want an automatic go with '05 or '06 because the trans has 1 more gear....5 speed instead of 4. Makes it much more drive-able, the difference is huge.
I went from an 04-05 CR-V and drove up the Sierra mountains. By god I cried tears of joy when I was driving the 05 the extra gear helps immensely. (also better on fuel economy too)
our 2004 CRV has a little over 200k miles. The ignition key switch has gone out twice ($800) a pop. The black death has occurred and we are on our 3rd compressor. Last time we replaced most of the AC system, fingers crossed. living in southern AZ ya gotta have an AC
Add ignition switch to the list. I’ve got a 2006 AWD and at 144,000 miles I’m getting this issue. AC Black Death on mine at 120,000 miles. Did the AC delete because local shop wanted $1200 to replace AC.
Yep... for $1,200 I'm rolling the window down. When my Civic ignition switch locked up, I disassembled it and took the lock pins out. Now it works great. If your model of car doesn't have an immobilizer chip in the key, then any key will start the car if you take the pins out.
Just brought an 03 CrV Ex for 600$ bad oil leak, Changed Vtec filter, crankshaft seal, oil pan gasket, NO MORE OIL LEAK.... working on AC next gotta change Expansion valve and I should have working AC, after that changing those bad shocks CRV's have. No other issue than that. I love this car, but I also have a 11 Acura ZDX Advance, 93 CB7 H22A SWAP, Keeping it all Honda from here on, next vehicle is a Ridgeline.... happy trails fellow CRVERS..
Lol 2 of our engine mounts in our 06 CRV are bad. I have the mounts but haven’t had a chance to do it yet. We have a bad rocker arm which makes it vibrate even more. Fortunately my AC died the first time just before my warranty ended so they replaced it for free. The second time it stopped working was because of a stupid electrical connection. The dealership couldn’t find the problem anywhere and said I would have to pay labor just to troubleshoot it. So I went several years with no ac and when we moved my mechanic discovered the problem. $20 fix.. he did it for free along with some other stuff he was working on. My car is up to almost 300,000 miles. I don’t know how much longer it will last though because I’m not up to replacing the rocker arm. It has some other error code as well and it idles really hard and stalls while idling. I love this car. We’ve abused the crap out of it but I’ve always done routine maintenance. I’ll probably fix it but can’t register it now because of the check engine light.
I just bought a 04 that has that same rocker issue. After spending hours reading I learned that there are some easy fixes for it. According to one YT video, many times this will be fixed simply by flushing the engine oil and changing the oil afterward. If that does not fix it the next thing to do is to clean or replace the two VTEC filter screens. There are several videos that show how to do this. Both of these fixes will take care of the majority of these...
I have two of these CRV’s and they’re great but I bought a complete wrecked one for spare parts. Parts suppliers should make a replacement IMRC actuator diaphragm as you currently have to replace the entire intake if that one little thing gets a hole in it. Other than that, easy vehicles to work on.
just replace the whole AC system,compressor and both coil and some tubing, cost me around RM2000(usd500). the engine mounting also replaced after 6 yrs running.
My 04 has 318k & now I have to change all cv axles, hub barrings, powersteering lines, motor mounts... but if you aren't a mechanic I would not recommend to spend the mounts of money I will bc it will cost a lot in labor
One thing to watch for is the 4 pipe brake pipe connection point in the left side wheel arch. Fully open to road salt and corrosion with factory fitted steel pipes. Mine were a complete mess and a very awkward job to do. But the car was 17 years old!
Mines is a 2002 200K+ and rocking! I have a manual transmission version CRV, it’s the most fun car I have had after an RSX I used to own also....gotta love the K series engines. The vibration driveshaft problem, that’s so true. Make sure you use Honda parts and not aftermarket for the driveshaft replacement, it can be frustrating if the driveshaft or axels that you buy are defective.
I have an 02 manual and have the vibration problem, but it only occurs at above 4500 in first, and between 2000 and 3000 in 2nd. 3rd 4th and 5th are all smooth throughout. Do you think it could be the driveshaft? its driving me nuts
@@titorock21 driveshaft has never been changed, and I believe there hasn’t been any transmission work other than a clutch that was done probably 40k miles ago
Nice video, would just like to add that it is quite important to replace the gearbox oil (in the autos) more often than you’d think. And only with the genuine Honda oil just like the rear diff.
I got a 2004 CrV and have almost all these problems and can’t fix any of it. Blown AC. got a air fuel code and knock sensor code. Changed both and it’s still on. Bought the car with a taped over check engine light and was none the wiser til I took it home
I'm glad you I'm not planning on getting one as a daily driver but more as a beater, it's brutal hot here in the South but for occasional use it don't bother me too too much, anyway for Home Depot trips,taking my jetski to the lake/park for outdoor activities in general, fishing...yeah, if I'm driving the CRV,I'm ALREADY sweaty and dirty so...
I have an ‘06 I’ve owned for 3 years owned by a grandma who gifted it to her grandson who has a family. I’m about to reach 270k miles, only replaced the starter other than that she treats me well
Am interested in both tge 2nd and 3rd gen CRV. This black death problem in the 2nd gen is seriously steering me towards the 3rd gen. Am I right to think this??
Interestingly enough, that folding table is very nifty to have to hold your tools as you're performing maintenance/repair work on the vehicle itself. Who'd have thought? :)
I have a 2004 and it has 160,000 miles and is excellent!!! I have been working on Honda's for 20 years, hey if your buying one, you always put down both windows put it in reverse and listen for the tell tale whine and don't buy it.... every car has issues, look at Nissans, they have tons but people keep buying them...If you take care of your car , it will do good by you. buying anything used has it's pit falls, but in the long run, it will be an Excellent vehicle... :)
I got a 2005 with 300 k miles still runs strong steering and breaking is stiff no problems. The people i got it from really took care of it bought it with 249k miles. My remote start gave out and i couldnt shut the car off lol removed the modules and its good now but no more remote start or keyless entryno big deal to me. It happened when i jump started someome the guy in the driver seat turned the key at the wrong time nor sure exactly but got home couldnt shut it off. Put it in park and neutral and the remote start would engage it was the strangest thing ever. I had to disconnect the battery to turn it off
i just bought a 2005 crv two weeks ago and it doesn't run anymore lmao we think its the battery for now. i'll also have someone look at my drive shaft (?) bc i do feel the wiggling when on the highway. also how can i check for the ac issue? my ac works super well (my car is basically a fridge at this point) but I'd rather catch it before it becomes an actual issue
This video helps me - i'm really in the market for a clean gen2 - I'm looking at an 06 that's nearly $7k, 120k miles, but it has most of the maintenance done. At 75k miles, had the AC compressor replaced, AC system checked by a honda dealership. Fairly new Clutch, among other parts replaced.
If the CRV is in like new condition, I would offer $6000. That means new suspension, no broken parts, new spark plugs, ect. You have papers of the ac being replaced?
My 2004 has 178,000 miles and I hope to see 300,000. The only issue is rust in rear wheel well. I did also have the dreaded black death and am deciding if it is worth fixing.
I never switch off the air conditioner! That way the system is always being kept lubricated and clean. If you leave anything just sitting and doing nothing, it will go bad.
Maybe check if your lower control arm bushings are in good condition/there to begin with. I’ve seen that be the cause of rubbing on an 02 chevy avalanche. The front lower control arm bushing is completely worn and you hear a rub when you turn full lock to the side its worn
my dad had 1 he bought in 2008, since first time as i knew the biggest problem only at the ac and once radiator (2014). last week i drive his car to pick up my mom's package and it's runs so smooth no problems at all. edit: anyway thanks for the video maybe it will help my dad if one day there's a problem
I’ve got a 2003 auto gen 2 with 183000 miles on the clock, had to replace 2 sensors but that’s it so far. Very reliable and easy enough to work on, just mine doesn’t like cold damp starts...........I live in the UK 😆
@@davidboulton1073 only when I start the engine for the time of a day, but I wouldn’t say really high. Although there’s a audible difference going from park to drive, but that only happens from a cold start
@@davidboulton1073 oh it is, feels as safe as driving a tank and is pretty easy to work on, and is better off roading than it should be! It’s an awesome vehicle and when mine dies I’ll be looking to get another auto 😉
Currently in the market for crv. Found an 06 EX with 153k miles. Asking 7500 thinking about giving it a test drive in a couple days. How's the price for the miles/age?
I had a 2004, had it for 10 years never had a problem with it service regardless but never a problem in the garage, I did over 100000 miles before selling it to the garage mechanic, it is still going strong gutted I sold it.
Help, Black death question, what do I tell mechanic to to about compressor, what part are you showing @ 3:13 all gummed up? Currently no problems now. ALSO how to keep ac compressor running at top performance? I Just bought a 2006 with 130 miles on it. My new ride appears to be in great condition inside and out. (bought from private party) These 2nd generation CR Vs are becoming sought after here in the Pacific Northwest and being modified. This purchase is also my project. Cheers from Central Oregon
That is an orifice tube. As far as I know the 2nd gen cr-v doesn't use one. It does use an expansion valve instead. As far as your ac goes, if it isn't broke, don't fix it. In other words if it works fine, leave it alone.
never tell a mechanic what to fix. Tell them what symptoms you have. Any time you replace a compressor you should also replace most of the AC system because it is contaminated and will ruin a new compressor. www.ebay.com/itm/282489216952?fits=Submodel%3AEX%7CYear%3A2005%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.4L%7CModel%3ACR-V%7CMake%3AHonda&hash=item41c5ab5fb8:g:YLUAAOxy43FRa8rK
Either would be good. I own two cr-v's 03 &14 and an 07 Toyota Corolla. The Corolla has gotten the least maintenance and needed the least repairs, 210,000 miles. The 03 Cr-v runs great as well but has needed more worn parts replaced, 265,000 miles.
My dads CR-V had a bad head gasket and blow up then now ut doesn't have oil pressure we are gonna swap the engine and it makes some funky noises like if it was the tensioner on the oil oumpy chain I guess
My beef is expansion valve. Why would you take a 15 dollar part and make it a three hour job. Have to pull out whole evap core just to get to it cuz hole in firewall to small. Ridiculous.
Power steering issue. I’ve had two of these 05 now 06 both had power steering issues around 170,000 miles.
Will start with visible leak or if caught early just overflow, when you check the fluid you will see bubbles or froth.
7$ o-ring to fix the issue early. Also may stem from power steering fluid not being changed; I honestly thought it was supposed to be black 😂
This fixed the groaning sound and trouble with power steering cold winter mornings, leak appears to have stopped etc.
If you catch it later pumps are only ~75$ from what I’ve seen. But if you let it go like that it’ll fuck the alternator from it leaking onto it.
The o-ring job is super easy fix.
Surprised it wasn’t mentioned cause it’s a common issues from what I can tell. At least Honda knew too and put the pump right in the top of the engine bay for East access.
CHANGE YOUR POWER STEERING FLUID Y’ALL
That rass leak in my compressor n now I have no ac your on point
had the same issue. replaced the o ring for a few pence.
Yeah, that o-ring on the inlet wears out and it starts sucking in air which makes it foam out of the reservoir. Good to replace the reservoir as well.
Thanks man will do I just noticed it
I was just thinking about that, thank you. I just got my CRV and it's so jolty and weird. I thought it was electornic. I was very surprised to see it is hydraulic. My Altima was smooth as butter. This is probably my only complaint about the CRV. PLus it's bumpy as hell. But that's ok for a SUV.
Common Issues for Honda CR-V 2nd Generation 2002-2006:
0:50 Noise coming from rear differential due to differential fluid going bad
1:13 Check Engine light due to faulty Air-Fuel Ratio Sensor
1:34 Check Engine light due to a loose fuel cap
2:08 Vibration while you're driving due to Universal Joint on the drive shaft going bad
2:37 Vibration from the engine due to faulty Engine Mount
3:00 The Black Death: The A/C Compressor fails from the inside out, metal shavings contaminating the entire A/C system
I used to own a 2005 CRV EX. It was the best vehicle I ever owned and I thought I would keep it forever, even though I had the A/C problem mentioned and l also needed to change the rear differential fluid. Other than those issues it was a great vehicle. Then in 2016 the unthinkable happened, I was rear-ended on the freeway and my beautiful CRV was totaled. I have checked out the newer models of the CRV, and they have nice features, but I liked the full-size spare tire and the folding table built in the trunk of the car. These features no longer exist in new models and it is disappointing.
I couldn't agree more.
My wife and I have both an 03 and 14 cr-v's.
The 14 is a little nicer but the 03 is our favorite.
Im so Sorry for your Loss.
condolences for your loss fellow CRV brethren. I had an '06 that got totaled as well. Ended up getting decent enough of an insurance payout to fully cover a great deal I found on an '05 in better condition, so it feels great to be back on the 2nd generation CRV train
I feel you and I’m so sorry for your loss. I have a 2006 CRV SE & it’s the best vehicle I’ve ever owned. I’ve always driven Hondas but this thing is something special. The room in the back is amazing, I take the rear seats out & road trip in it a lot. Even with the seats in and folded up I can fit so much stuff in this thing. An entire IKEA sofa! In boxes of course…but still! My AC did stop blowing cold a few mos ago & it cost my $1900 to fix BUT it was a dealership so was extra expensive & I live in central TX so AC is non negotiable. My brake lights are stuck on atm so I’m here on YT figuring that out.
I had a 2002, was a fantastic car, never let me down. I also got rear ended and it twisted the car, i have moved to a proper 4x4 but will never forget the reliability it offered.
335k on my 2006.. never had any of those issues.. I do regularly maintain all fluids.. Amazing daily driver.. I'll never have another as reliable as this has been
I believe it.
Every how many miles you flush the trans fluid?
@@Ch-hg1iu I did trans fluid on my 03 CRV last week, I flush it 60,000 km interval, and it was a little dirty. After flushing it shifts better.
Updates?
@@jeta1-fsii63should one just change all fluids when purchasing a used crv or vehicle just to be safe?
Our family used to own one until we traded it in for our Prius V back in 2016. If we hadn't traded it in, it would've been mine in high school. I loved that car. It was synonymous with my entire childhood and teen years.
I have a 2003 with 176,000 miles. Served my family well. I passed it on to my son who drove it through high-school and college. Now my daughter is driving it in college. Only thing that doesn't work is the power door locks. Great car.
2002 almost at 200k miles. Family has owned since 40k miles. Only had to replace starter, cat, o2 sensors, and a door actuator. Still on original clutch! Very reliable and fun on dirt roads
Coming up on 375,000km on my 2006 CRV, finally replacing the battery today as it is starting to show signs of being low. Other than breaks and a headlight, I've never had any issues or had to put any money into it.
🤙
Had mine ten years. Now showing 300,000kms. Solid car, never fails to start, never overheats and has never broken down. Original exhaust and wheel bearings, steering etc.
At this mileage most of the suspension has been worked on, aim for all the rubber bushes and shock absorbers after 150,000miles (250,000kms etc). Lower ball joints also fail pretty consistently. One broken rear spring and the starters get gummed up and need a clean if the bendix starts sticking.
2003 years need to watch the exhaust camshaft, they were made out of cheese for a while and they pit like hell with no indication of a problem. You'll most likely find it when you check the valve clearances when you get bored one day.... Go on then, ask me how I know lol! Apparently a hardening issue affected this years camshafts. Don't know what happens if you just ignore it. Could be they'd manage to see out the life of the car. I swapped mine with a good second hand one.
Vague steering (assuming suspension etc. okay) can be adjusted via a nut on the back of the rack. Need a special tool/large spanner (40mm I think)and 14mm one to nip up the slipper (free it up, then run it up to pinch tight and then back off 20 degrees). Tons of CRV racks have been binned when they just needed this 'secret' adjustment.
My brake calliper pistons started to rust and stick at about 275,000kms. Calliper internals were as new. Buy seal and piston kits to get the car rolling like new. Generally pretty heavy on brake parts but cheap and easy to fix.
Rear brake shields rust out so just remove them (they are a part of the rear hub so replacing them is not worth the effort).
Changing the auto fluid (ATF) is a bit stupid, need to do it three times with a drive in between. Worth it though for the smoothest gearbox I've ever had.
Engine revs like it really wants to and pulls like a train right around to the red line. Pretty nimble for a SUV.
Every time I go thorough the two year inspection I say, this will be the last time, and yet here I am lol!
Love the CRV, best space on the road for the money.
I have an 03 with 138K and it runs beautifully. No a/ c problems or other complaints listed here. Handling, suspension, reliability and cabin headroom are best of all time for C-SUVs. What's a problem is the road noise, which drives me crazy when I'm driving on concrete highway surfaces. I give it a 9/10 for CSUVs of this era.
I put kyb gas shocks and now rides super awesome and gain some handling ability
Michelin tires!
My fix is to blast the radio
Yes..michellin tyres
Update now?
I currently own an ‘04 CrV… bought it new. Damn near 400,000 miles on it. Most problem free vehicle that I’ve ever owned. Still runs great. Better in snow than ANY 4 wheel drive truck! Would buy another if I could!!
What services/parts replacement have you had done?
@@ayegeetee I am the original owner of my CRV. I have done all service work, on a regular basis, by myself. Of course your typical mechanical parts wear out over time. Just recently, it seems like I’ve been replacing quite a bit of stuff. But, a few parts here and there, beats the hell out of paying what vehicles are going for nowadays. And I know everything that has been done to it, too. A few things just recently though; driveshaft, front o2 sensor, front and rear sway bar links and bushings, variable valve timing solenoid, replaced idle air control valve, air intake hose, front and rear strut assembly, ball joints… all I can think of recently. Best vehicle I’ve ever owned. It uses about a quart of oil over a 5,000 mile service span. Original transmission, motor, exhaust, and entire cooling system. The a/c system needs replaced, but I don’t feel like dropping 1,000 bucks for it right now.
@@jeffh.2509that's awesome! I purchased an '06 over 2 years ago and it runs fine over 276k miles. I'm also the second owner. All I had to do was change out the ball joints and outer tie rods. Did you have any head gasket issues with yours?
@@paulgermano7837 Same. 2006, around 300K. Two years ago I did front end work. Went through the Black Death problem three times (= about $6,000), but that wouldn't even pay for the taxes on a new one. I've babied it oil changes at 3K, fluid changes/flushes in advance of the recommendations. I'm going to keep throwing repairs at it until I get to a million miles.
Mines 2002...now running 650,000++...using for daily car...and the only one vehicle i have
As an (ex?) owner of a 2002 CRV, I just would like to add: watch your engine oil, the oil warning light never came on, I was driving on low oil and stretched the chain (it did finish the final 1500 km trip before stalling though). Ac seized up long time ago. My personal annoyances were failing and noisy shocks at 250 000 kms, also around the same time a front wheel bearing went and when inspected, they were still factory original from 2002. Also I had experienced fuel economy worsen over time. This little car is like a honda civic with a bigger chassis and AWD so it is reliable transportation with space for hauling. Watch your oil people. I had 350 000 kms on it when I took on the final 1500 km trip.
Oh man, I'm barely at 240k. And so far the only serious repairs I did was replace, Alternator, starter, replaced AC compressor with a fake dummy pulley, timing chain, thermostat and radiator. Your right about the suspension parts, mine are starting to sound very noisy. And the oil levels, I found that within the timing cover, there were gaskets that had hairline cracks, plus the gasket behind the crankshaft was too degraded. So far everything is running okay when I bought it used at 160k.
@@Ruben901 to be honest I drive like an idiot. Not dangerous, just not according to the age and condition of the car. My mistakes. It did what it had to do, I bought it with around 200 000 kms, 2.5 years ago for $2000 CaD, probably spent another 1500 on maintenance during that time. It was a beater to run around. I did almost all city driving before I moved east, almost every day: started 15-20 times, two trips down and up an escarpment, driven in challenging weather every winter and it has never let me down or stranded. It did not stop breathing until it finished the long trip, as my buddy has predicted was gonna happen, if it was gonna happen. At 350k and knowing the abuse and stuff... something was bound to happen.
The rear diff requires Honda Dual Pump II fluid for the dual pump system. The manual says to change it at 60K miles. My dealer said to change it at 30K miles. It only takes a quart, so I change it at 15K miles and have had no problems with my 1999 CR-V and 2006 Element and both have manual transmissions (I change the gearbox fluid at 30K miles.) with engines run at high revs. I bought these vehicles new and have had no problems at all with the drive systems.
There was a recall on my CRV about the AC in the USA. The dealer fixed my '04 in 2008, replacing the entire system. No problems since and it's now at 143K in 2022. I want to change my transmission fluid for the first time but it's still pink. One engine cooling fan failed in 2021 and my mechanic replaced both.
I have a 04 also and have never heard of a recall.
Don't forget worn sway bar stabilizer end links, worn brake caliper pins.
Both cause all kinds of clunking noises.
Also keep transmission fluid changed in automatic models to prevent torque converter shudder.
For some reason those slide pins always get seized on the rear calipers. Scary when your pedal goes to the floor when braking. Common on the element as well.
Do you know how to fix the shudder ?
@@3Js_garage Just a drain and fill using Valvoline Maxlife took care of the shudder in my 03 cr-v.
@@3Js_garage I had a shudder from worn rotors. New ones fixed it
@@vastaire81 why would a seized brake caliper pin on one rear caliper cause the pedal to go to the floor? Makes no sense.
I have put my 03 crv through it and it's still running strong. It is a very durable and reliable vehicle and i plan on driving it til it falls apart.
Most of this sounds like basic wear and tear that can be easily taken care of with a routine maintenance.
Watch before you buy!
Me here after 1 yr of ownership
Me after 5 months of ownership
I’ve now had a 2005, a 2004, and 2006 CR-V. All hit over 250k miles and I never wanted to get rid of the first two, but other careless drivers gave me no option after totaling them. Only consistent problem I had with all 3: Air Compressor systems all failed, probably due to excessive usage (by me) and being 15+ years old. Other consistent problem: Broken front CV axles. I take blame on those also, I drove ambitiously in my early days. I now have a 2006 and have customized it exactly how I want and it suits my lifestyle perfectly. Great adventure vehicle (within reason), great daily driver, and surprisingly great on gas mileage for the year model it is. Make sure to stay on top of al regular maintenance intervals and these vehicles are amazing.
I have a 2005 and 2006 honda crv . They both are the best vehicles around. I have no problems with them excellent vehicles. 👍
Stumbled upon this video while looking for a gen 2. Great info! One ad i looked at posted that the AC was out and needs to be recharged with refrigerant. Might be more serious than that according to your video.. Thanks!
That’s exactly why I made the video, I’m glad I was able to help out!
@@AutoMotivate
What do you think is the more reliable CRV gen1 or 2?
Moe B gen1 is more reliable than gen2. Gen1 was built in Japan only and Honda wanted to impress customers by making something indestructible. Indeed they succeeded. Gen1 still has common problems such as main relay, ignition coil in the distributor, burnt contacts on the ignition, tranny slips between second and third, and burnt valves if not adjusted at appropriate intervals. Do not forget that it needs a timing belt service every 80k. But oh boy if you cover all the issues above you have a rock solid runner. On the other side gen2 has timing chain and really really good k24 engine. However, general reliability of the built feels cheaper and breaks more often. I did work in a Honda dealer at some point in my life ☺️ as a tech, plus I own gen1 for the last 4 years
@@mitotsvetkov3447 not entirely true gen 1 was built in Japan Jakarta Philippines and also here in Swindon UK
@@mitotsvetkov3447 idk I can’t find any Gen 1s that don’t leak oil, maybe it’s because all the well maintained ones aren’t being sold or other people nab em quickly!
Pretty accurate. I've had to do the engine mounts and compressor (twice!). With the engine mounts make sure you get the correct mounts for an automatic or manual transmission.
I put my 2005 honda crv through hell weekly!
I'm at 310,000 mi and going on the 2005. It ran me $1,300 on AC repair on a 2003 crv.
Around how many miles did that happen?
@@matthewrudisill1409 on the 2003 ac out at 300,000+mi.
Ac went out on 2005 at 240,00mi.
@@prodriveawayman6943 what was the repairs for the A/C i,ve heard that the thermal switch on the compressor can kill it
@@joezuerlein the last one I had repaired. They had to replace everything. The repaired vehicle Ac only lasted a year.
I don't know if it was the shop or a leak.
Well it seems I made a good choice buying a used 03 with 160,000. Hope that doesn't happen to mine though.
I'm going for 1 million wish me luck.
Um...like actually?
@@GNICHO yes
@@yoshiguy35 what have you had to prepare? I’m looking at one with about 230k miles
*repair
Miles or KMs?
Forgot the FAN MOTORS... they commonly go out on those and the Elements. Either one or both at the same time.
Mine has 400.000 miles dialy driver
$1,200 a/c work at 195,000. $1,554 new clutch at 217,700. Great car. Mine is a CR-CV. CARGO VAN. Removed back seat the day I bought the car.
Really good video. Seriously considering buying a 2005 crv. How can you tell if the BLACK DEATH has occurred?
Thank you
There are a couple other items to add.
Front lower control arm compliance bushings fail due to design will wear out exceptionally fast if driven on rough roads, They will eat tires if not fixed, they can be pressed out and replaced but most shops will just opt to replace the lower control arms as it's a faster and more expensive bill. If you have the tools to do it yourself it's like $80 for the parts.
Vtech solinoids have a tendancy to fail (you had one pictured during the AC compressor part) and will create a bucking during acceleration when they get stuck (worst offender is the one on the rear of the engine, it will also leak oil from that location as well. Typically happens after or around the time the PCV valve fails so change that too. MAKE SURE TO USE Genuine HONDA PARTS! I cannot stress this enough! Though you do not need/want Honda parts for engine/transmission mounts as in additon to higher prices they are more prone to failure due to being fluid filled. (solid rubber parts will not dampen the engine as much but will last just as long and are at maximum half the cost)
from the gen 2 if you want an automatic go with '05 or '06 because the trans has 1 more gear....5 speed instead of 4. Makes it much more drive-able, the difference is huge.
I went from an 04-05 CR-V and drove up the Sierra mountains. By god I cried tears of joy when I was driving the 05 the extra gear helps immensely. (also better on fuel economy too)
I have a 2003 crv awd at 250k ,
Almost 7k into parts and labor all around. I love it.
our 2004 CRV has a little over 200k miles. The ignition key switch has gone out twice ($800) a pop. The black death has occurred and we are on our 3rd compressor. Last time we replaced most of the AC system, fingers crossed. living in southern AZ ya gotta have an AC
Recently bought one in red for 1000, needs work but she is a beauty runs and drives perfect
Add ignition switch to the list. I’ve got a 2006 AWD and at 144,000 miles I’m getting this issue. AC Black Death on mine at 120,000 miles. Did the AC delete because local shop wanted $1200 to replace AC.
Yep... for $1,200 I'm rolling the window down. When my Civic ignition switch locked up, I disassembled it and took the lock pins out. Now it works great. If your model of car doesn't have an immobilizer chip in the key, then any key will start the car if you take the pins out.
Just brought an 03 CrV Ex for 600$ bad oil leak, Changed Vtec filter, crankshaft seal, oil pan gasket, NO MORE OIL LEAK.... working on AC next gotta change Expansion valve and I should have working AC, after that changing those bad shocks CRV's have. No other issue than that. I love this car, but I also have a 11 Acura ZDX Advance, 93 CB7 H22A SWAP, Keeping it all Honda from here on, next vehicle is a Ridgeline.... happy trails fellow CRVERS..
I clicked right off of two CGI voice videos before getting to yours, thank you for being a human 🙏
Lol 2 of our engine mounts in our 06 CRV are bad. I have the mounts but haven’t had a chance to do it yet. We have a bad rocker arm which makes it vibrate even more. Fortunately my AC died the first time just before my warranty ended so they replaced it for free. The second time it stopped working was because of a stupid electrical connection. The dealership couldn’t find the problem anywhere and said I would have to pay labor just to troubleshoot it. So I went several years with no ac and when we moved my mechanic discovered the problem. $20 fix.. he did it for free along with some other stuff he was working on. My car is up to almost 300,000 miles. I don’t know how much longer it will last though because I’m not up to replacing the rocker arm. It has some other error code as well and it idles really hard and stalls while idling. I love this car. We’ve abused the crap out of it but I’ve always done routine maintenance. I’ll probably fix it but can’t register it now because of the check engine light.
I just bought a 04 that has that same rocker issue. After spending hours reading I learned that there are some easy fixes for it. According to one YT video, many times this will be fixed simply by flushing the engine oil and changing the oil afterward. If that does not fix it the next thing to do is to clean or replace the two VTEC filter screens. There are several videos that show how to do this. Both of these fixes will take care of the majority of these...
FYI Do NOT let Jiffy Lube flush your engine, that will only make things worse...
450,000 miles on my 03 Black crv
I have two of these CRV’s and they’re great but I bought a complete wrecked one for spare parts. Parts suppliers should make a replacement IMRC actuator diaphragm as you currently have to replace the entire intake if that one little thing gets a hole in it. Other than that, easy vehicles to work on.
What’s this imrc actuator ?
just replace the whole AC system,compressor and both coil and some tubing, cost me around RM2000(usd500).
the engine mounting also replaced after 6 yrs running.
Mine is 2004 crv. Old guy never complaining too much. Fun to drive and friendly gasoline.
The recall stopped the Black Death. The dealership replaced the entire ac in 2010 on my 04, at no cost.
My 03 still drives like new.and remember model 03 was the best selling out of the 02-05
I have Crv2004 with 2,35,000 Km
I just changed oil, filter and 2 ignition coils.
My 04 has 318k & now I have to change all cv axles, hub barrings, powersteering lines, motor mounts... but if you aren't a mechanic I would not recommend to spend the mounts of money I will bc it will cost a lot in labor
Thanks for the video I love my crv I do all my own work on mine and I’m not a mechanc I just lifted it 2 inch.
You just saved me a bunch of money & time. Almost got one with the a/c broke thinking I'll just throw on a compressor and fluid. Thanks.
That is the main reason I started making these videos. I’m very happy I was able to help 🙏
One thing to watch for is the 4 pipe brake pipe connection point in the left side wheel arch. Fully open to road salt and corrosion with factory fitted steel pipes. Mine were a complete mess and a very awkward job to do. But the car was 17 years old!
Mine failed here too. Was a tad time consuming to repair but all good now.
This goes for any one who is not a mechanic.
Obviously if you are a mechanic you pay for parts everything thing else is free.
Mines is a 2002 200K+ and rocking! I have a manual transmission version CRV, it’s the most fun car I have had after an RSX I used to own also....gotta love the K series engines. The vibration driveshaft problem, that’s so true. Make sure you use Honda parts and not aftermarket for the driveshaft replacement, it can be frustrating if the driveshaft or axels that you buy are defective.
I just bought a crv and my previous car was also an rsx
I have an 02 manual and have the vibration problem, but it only occurs at above 4500 in first, and between 2000 and 3000 in 2nd. 3rd 4th and 5th are all smooth throughout. Do you think it could be the driveshaft? its driving me nuts
@@aleclienhard have you ever changed the driveshaft before? If so find out what was put in. Also was there any transmission work done ?
@@titorock21 driveshaft has never been changed, and I believe there hasn’t been any transmission work other than a clutch that was done probably 40k miles ago
@@aleclienhard I would inspect coupling bearings, u-joints etc. Hopefully you can do this yourself, I know how pricey a mechanic can be.
Nice video, would just like to add that it is quite important to replace the gearbox oil (in the autos) more often than you’d think. And only with the genuine Honda oil just like the rear diff.
I use Valvoline Maxlife in my 03 cr-v automatic.
No issues at all and meets Honda specs.
@@basshnter1997 maxlife works fine. If it meets specs its safe.
Walmart stuff here. Works.
You forgot valve adjustments
v tech solonoid issue ,car goes in limp3000 tpm ,change actuator and filter,also door locks are faulty..
Yes, replaced my v- tech solonoid
Got an 04 now with 200k mi...and yes the AC went and Honda paid half with a perpetual guarantee. Hope so anyway. Still good and 27mpg.
the 04s are the best imo. mine is almost at 315K
Hi, and thanks for sharing the info.
DOES THE BLACK DEATH HAPPEN TO ALL the 2nd GEN, or does it only happen to a few?
Depends. Some have not had the issue or got the AC replaced under warranty/recall, etc. I do not have the issue on a 2005 with approx 130K miles.
I got a 2004 CrV and have almost all these problems and can’t fix any of it. Blown AC. got a air fuel code and knock sensor code. Changed both and it’s still on. Bought the car with a taped over check engine light and was none the wiser til I took it home
Also if you live in the north east the rubber balancer on the passenger side cv shaft will literally rust it in half
I'm glad you I'm not planning on getting one as a daily driver but more as a beater, it's brutal hot here in the South but for occasional use it don't bother me too too much, anyway for Home Depot trips,taking my jetski to the lake/park for outdoor activities in general, fishing...yeah, if I'm driving the CRV,I'm ALREADY sweaty and dirty so...
What will it cost to replace a fuel line in a 2002 model? Are there additional costs and repairs associated with the repair to this?
I have an ‘06 I’ve owned for 3 years owned by a grandma who gifted it to her grandson who has a family. I’m about to reach 270k miles, only replaced the starter other than that she treats me well
Am interested in both tge 2nd and 3rd gen CRV.
This black death problem in the 2nd gen is seriously steering me towards the 3rd gen.
Am I right to think this??
If we need to replace the whole ac system? What exactly we gotta replace? Condenser, freeon, compressor. Is that it?
Yes, and you have to replace all the lines going in and out also.
Just went to the shop with a AC issue with my 04. Gonna cost me fuckin 700+
@@Baxten123
Bruh. For 700 clams, you can roll the fuckin window down.
('04 CRV) The job was a lot easier than I expected. Definitely worth DIY!
Thank you sooo much my mom has one and my dad died so i am left with a bunch of tools and my mom's CRV to maintain.
Sorry to hear that, I’m sure he is in a beautiful place.
The CRV is easy to work on. With plenty of videos and patients, I’m sure you’ll succeed 😁
Interestingly enough, that folding table is very nifty to have to hold your tools as you're performing maintenance/repair work on the vehicle itself. Who'd have thought? :)
I have a 2004 and it has 160,000 miles and is excellent!!! I have been working on Honda's for 20 years, hey if your buying one, you always put down both windows put it in reverse and listen for the tell tale whine and don't buy it.... every car has issues, look at Nissans, they have tons but people keep buying them...If you take care of your car , it will do good by you. buying anything used has it's pit falls, but in the long run, it will be an Excellent vehicle... :)
What does the whining sound indicate?
Timing belt or chain for 2004 CRV
Nebu Joy chain
Could I pull a 5x8 trailer with a 350lb quad ? With a 2nd gen. Around 1200lbs
Every car I’ve owned makes the whine lol that’s 100% normal
true video ive fixxed alot of this things on my 03
I got a 2005 with 300 k miles still runs strong steering and breaking is stiff no problems. The people i got it from really took care of it bought it with 249k miles. My remote start gave out and i couldnt shut the car off lol removed the modules and its good now but no more remote start or keyless entryno big deal to me. It happened when i jump started someome the guy in the driver seat turned the key at the wrong time nor sure exactly but got home couldnt shut it off. Put it in park and neutral and the remote start would engage it was the strangest thing ever. I had to disconnect the battery to turn it off
i just bought a 2005 crv two weeks ago and it doesn't run anymore lmao we think its the battery for now. i'll also have someone look at my drive shaft (?) bc i do feel the wiggling when on the highway.
also how can i check for the ac issue? my ac works super well (my car is basically a fridge at this point) but I'd rather catch it before it becomes an actual issue
Shouldn't happen to a 2005, mainly the 2003 year.
Just bought a 2005 CRV. Every time i put my AC on smoke comes out of the hood of the car, and yes i changed the compressor. Any idea why?
This video helps me - i'm really in the market for a clean gen2 - I'm looking at an 06 that's nearly $7k, 120k miles, but it has most of the maintenance done. At 75k miles, had the AC compressor replaced, AC system checked by a honda dealership. Fairly new Clutch, among other parts replaced.
If the CRV is in like new condition, I would offer $6000. That means new suspension, no broken parts, new spark plugs, ect.
You have papers of the ac being replaced?
My 2004 has 178,000 miles and I hope to see 300,000. The only issue is rust in rear wheel well. I did also have the dreaded black death and am deciding if it is worth fixing.
The most expensive problem with this car is the cat converter it'll only accept oem part which is pricey.
I found an inexpensive aftermarket cat online for my 2004 CRV. It's been 3 years and still works great.
Really good video! How can you tell if the BLACK DEATH has occurred? Thank you
I never switch off the air conditioner! That way the system is always being kept lubricated and clean. If you leave anything just sitting and doing nothing, it will go bad.
my CRV dies when I take my foot off the accelerator. What can it be?
Maybe somewhere along the fuel system. Possibly fuel pressure. Im not a mechanic that would be the first thing i would test.
its a sensor. had the same problem. had mine adjusted.
I saw a steering rack on a pic, I thought its a common problem, but You never mentioned about steering rack so Im good :D
just bought an 05 with 81k, owners were an old couple barely drove it, inside is basically brand new
How much you got it for?
There's one for sale by me with 85k, for $6.5k
@@vincentxiong16 $5800 for mine
The late 2004-2006 CRV’s had better air conditioning units.
Barely
@@alexcastaneda2233 You got a dud. Mine is still working flawlessly.
Don't forget to clean the vtec solenoid filters too
Just bought one.
This one sounds like rubbing on full lock.
I checked and tyre/wheel sizes are correct.
Any ideas?
Check blinker fluid
Maybe check if your lower control arm bushings are in good condition/there to begin with. I’ve seen that be the cause of rubbing on an 02 chevy avalanche. The front lower control arm bushing is completely worn and you hear a rub when you turn full lock to the side its worn
Really good video. Thanks x
my dad had 1 he bought in 2008, since first time as i knew the biggest problem only at the ac and once radiator (2014). last week i drive his car to pick up my mom's package and it's runs so smooth no problems at all.
edit: anyway thanks for the video maybe it will help my dad if one day there's a problem
That's a Gen 3.
I’ve got a 2003 auto gen 2 with 183000 miles on the clock, had to replace 2 sensors but that’s it so far. Very reliable and easy enough to work on, just mine doesn’t like cold damp starts...........I live in the UK 😆
same!
Got the same car in the U.K. with the auto transmission. Do You find yours idles really high when in neutral or park (1.2+)?
@@davidboulton1073 only when I start the engine for the time of a day, but I wouldn’t say really high. Although there’s a audible difference going from park to drive, but that only happens from a cold start
@@johnwhittle.22 okay thanks John. Lovely practical vehicle
@@davidboulton1073 oh it is, feels as safe as driving a tank and is pretty easy to work on, and is better off roading than it should be! It’s an awesome vehicle and when mine dies I’ll be looking to get another auto 😉
How to check if stmptoms of black death ?
Currently in the market for crv. Found an 06 EX with 153k miles. Asking 7500 thinking about giving it a test drive in a couple days. How's the price for the miles/age?
good price if it's in good or better condition.
What am I looking for to tip me off that my AC is going Bad??? My 2004 has 85,000 mi on her. Or do I replace the compressor Now?
How can you tell if the ac compressor is going to fail like that?
I have a 2002 AWD with 70k. A battery, oil change and gas.
I had a 2004, had it for 10 years never had a problem with it service regardless but never a problem in the garage, I did over 100000 miles before selling it to the garage mechanic, it is still going strong gutted I sold it.
Was that a 2.0l petrol
Is there a way to know if the AC compressor has been replaced, if there aren’t any records?
I didn't realize my A/C compressor had been replaced by the previous owner until I removed it and saw the aftermarket brand name on it!
Great info, and now something new to get checked. One suggestion.. E-NUN-CI-ATE!
Hmmm.. maybe if you said it nicer
Amazing video, thanks for the informations!
Thank you! I am glad i could help out.
Help, Black death question, what do I tell mechanic to to about compressor, what part are you showing @ 3:13 all gummed up? Currently no problems now. ALSO how to keep ac compressor running at top performance? I Just bought a 2006 with 130 miles on it. My new ride appears to be in great condition inside and out. (bought from private party) These 2nd generation CR Vs are becoming sought after here in the Pacific Northwest and being modified. This purchase is also my project. Cheers from Central Oregon
That is an orifice tube.
As far as I know the 2nd gen cr-v doesn't use one.
It does use an expansion valve instead.
As far as your ac goes, if it isn't broke, don't fix it.
In other words if it works fine, leave it alone.
never tell a mechanic what to fix. Tell them what symptoms you have. Any time you replace a compressor you should also replace most of the AC system because it is contaminated and will ruin a new compressor. www.ebay.com/itm/282489216952?fits=Submodel%3AEX%7CYear%3A2005%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.4L%7CModel%3ACR-V%7CMake%3AHonda&hash=item41c5ab5fb8:g:YLUAAOxy43FRa8rK
2002 Honda 220 miles really good cars
I am about to buy my first car, which one is better: Rav4 2004 or CRV 2004?
Either would be good.
I own two cr-v's 03 &14 and an 07 Toyota Corolla.
The Corolla has gotten the least maintenance and needed the least repairs, 210,000 miles.
The 03 Cr-v runs great as well but has needed more worn parts replaced, 265,000 miles.
RAV 4s are awesome, IMO. My sister has had two (‘03 & ‘06) and as far as I know, hasn’t had to replace much of anything.
@@LilyGirl02 thanks!!!
@@basshnter1997 thanks!!
Why Dual-Pump fluid instead of ATF-DW1?
do the rack and pinion fail on crv 2006 or it’ll not happen if you change fluid regularly ??
more or less at what mileage should i change the compressor?
My dads CR-V had a bad head gasket and blow up then now ut doesn't have oil pressure we are gonna swap the engine and it makes some funky noises like if it was the tensioner on the oil oumpy chain I guess
Watching this as my AC compressor went out and had it replaced at 111,00 miles lmao
what was the cost for that?
@@dzumba9897 About 850 before taxes.
My beef is expansion valve. Why would you take a 15 dollar part and make it a three hour job. Have to pull out whole evap core just to get to it cuz hole in firewall to small. Ridiculous.