How To Convert a Spray Zone to Drip Irrigation
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- Опубліковано 13 лип 2024
- Convert a zone of spray heads to drip irrigation. Step by step from planning to converting a spray to a pressure compensating filter adapt to dripline. This is one of the lessons in our Udemy course, Irrigation 101: Drip Irrigation For Lawn and Farm
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1/2" Sprinkler to Drip conversion
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Excellent video and all in 5 minutes. Keep up the good work
Thank you! Lol, you won't find too many of my videos that short. I'm usually trying to pack too much info in each one. I need to start making shorter vids with more specific tasks. Thanks for watching!
Your videos are excellent Mike! I've learned a lot from your channel. Quick question on why you didn't put in two of the retro heads on this zone and run the drip line between them. You mentioned on one of your videos that a linear run is not the ideal configuration and providing source water from two sides provides redundancy and more even pressure.
Hi Todd, thanks for watching and commenting. You're totally correct. If there's another head nearby, you can put in another Retro 1800 and get better flow. For smaller projects it isn't necessary, but using two sources to get more distance and flow is a good strategy if needed.
Great video Mike thank you! Why do you use teflon tape above ground but not under?
Hey TMan, thanks for watching and commenting. To be honest, it's usually just about customer perception. If there's a small leak, a few drips, it's no big deal if it's happening in an area we're irrigating anyway. But if it's leaking underground, then no harm, no foul. Nobody sees it and the water soaks into the soil. ( If it's a larger leak, then that's a different story.) But if a small leak is happening above ground and the customer sees it, then you may have to go back out for a warranty call to fix it, even if it's doing no harm.
Why do you not use teflon tape on fittings underground? I've been told that you need the tape, and I've been told that you don't need the tape. I'm very confused. Thanks.
I’m no plumber but I know you only use teflon on metal connections and not on plastic
Great simple to understand video, thank you for sharing. I am looking to convert one of our zones withi only two spray heads on it to drip and also have some 1/4" line for pots on the porch on that same converted zone and I like that the rainbird has both a filter and pressure reducer all combined in one housing.
My question would be about how you winterize a drip line? We are in a cold climate area and have to winterize our system each year. I know I could open the capped head(s) to allow water to be blown out but what is typiclly done for the drip lines?
In colder climates, irrigation systems and drip as well are winterized by using compressed air. If you do it yourself, be very careful to keep the pressure down as low as possible to avoid blowing the fittings off, keep it below 35 psi for sure. Use a slow buildup to pressure and avoid sudden bursts of pressure.
@@Proirrigationtraining thank you
@@FENATECH You're welcome!
We have an existing spray irrigation system and I changed the garden layout. We
Have hunter pro spray heads, are we still able
To use the rainbird models?
Yes, it’s just a brand. At the end of the day the both do the same thing
Can you have a spray and a drip on the same zone? I have 1 bush that likes the over head spray and all the rest would be fine with drip.
You cannot, the spray head applies more water a minute. Drip only applies certain amount a water a minute therefor you will have over watering on your sprays and drip will be under watered. Sprays usually need about 8-10min a zones, and drip usually needs 20min.
xEx gave a great reply, but there is some nuance to it. There are spray nozzles that have lower flows, and even some small sprays that are designed to go with drip systems, check Hunter and Rain Bird websites and look in the drip section. Micro-sprays have much lower flow rates as well.
Shouldn't the control valve be replace with a Low pressure valve when going with a drip system?
It really depends on the situation. If you're taking the zone's total flow very low, like 2 or 3 gpm, then changing the valve is probably wise. Usually, when an entire zone is changed over to drip, it's for beds or a garden, and the flow ends up at least 7 or 8 gpm which is fine to leave the existing valve for. And always check the specs of the valve in question, some standard 1" valves have a pretty low flow rating on the bottom end. Others aren't as forgiving.