Great job on this! The disclaimer at the end must be, due to the video being produced by a gov't entity. Let me state for the record, as a professional, I only use the Rain Bird copper shield technology drip irrigation featured in this video. The reason? no need to blow herbicide thru the system, as you need to do with other brands. Rain Bird makes the world's ONLY sustainable drip irrigation due to their putting a tiny piece of copper every 12 inches. I have never had a problem with this type of tubing and highly recommend it for any type of irrigation and veggie planters too!
I have one zone (1" 90-ft PVC with only two pop up spray heads) that I wish to convert to a drip system. One of the pop up spray head is near the start of the zone which I plan to cap off. The other spray head is at the end of the 90-ft run PVC that I plan to put a "Y" filter/regulator to run a 6-ft drip line. Is this even workable putting the "Y" near the end or at the end of the zone instead of immediately after the inline valve?
Sounds like they run on different pressures. Maybe if you ran the drip off of the last sprinkler in the line and put the pressure regulator there, pure speculation though.
I watched a few videos on this subject. In all the videos they mention how drip system needs to be installed in dedicated zones because drip is watered at a much slower rate. For example, instead of 5-10 minute waterings in pop up zones, drip zones need at least 20 minutes watering time. If pop ups and drip were on same zone and irrigation set for 5 minutes the drip irrigation areas would be underwatered and dry and your plants will die. Opposite it setting for 20 minutes for drip. Pop up area plants will be over watered. Thus pop ups need separate zone from drip
Water pressure requirements are different. If you use the same valve on a drip line the water would be spraying out like a sprinkler, not good. A drip line is a low water pressure system. Makes me wonder if you can just connect a tee and install a low pressure valve on an existing sprinkler zone.
Pressure can be matched or regulated. The problem is run time. By the time the drip has run for an hour, the areas with spray or rotor heads have likely flooded or run off. If you only run long enough for the spray, then the drip zones are being under-irrigated.
The most common installation error I see is staking the drip tube next to the plant's stem. This practically guarantees that the plant will die from root rot. Horticulturists know that irrigation should be under the drip line of the plant. Many clients have called H2 Xero Landscape because their plants are dying and have subsequently hired us to re-lay the drip tubing away from plant's stems. No more death from water.
Other than the one sprinkler you are converting to a drip, are you saying that you HAVE To cap off all the other sprinklers heads that are in the same zone?
Drip irrigation emits water slowly (think a dripping faucet), which will require a longer water run time in order for plants to get enough water. In the heat of the summer, you may want to run your drip system 30-40 min a day, whereas, sprinkler heads water fast by spraying lots of water. You can imagine that if the two were operating in the same zone, there is no way to find a happy medium for both.
This video needs to have parts listed in the description.
No one’s talking about the pressure to the valve from the street or doing this in line
Great job on this! The disclaimer at the end must be, due to the video being produced by a gov't entity. Let me state for the record, as a professional, I only use the Rain Bird copper shield technology drip irrigation featured in this video. The reason? no need to blow herbicide thru the system, as you need to do with other brands. Rain Bird makes the world's ONLY sustainable drip irrigation due to their putting a tiny piece of copper every 12 inches. I have never had a problem with this type of tubing and highly recommend it for any type of irrigation and veggie planters too!
Could you elaborate on the part about blowing herbicide through the system? Never heard of this nor the relationship to copper.
Can you get a supply list?
I have one zone (1" 90-ft PVC with only two pop up spray heads) that I wish to convert to a drip system. One of the pop up spray head is near the start of the zone which I plan to cap off. The other spray head is at the end of the 90-ft run PVC that I plan to put a "Y" filter/regulator to run a 6-ft drip line. Is this even workable putting the "Y" near the end or at the end of the zone instead of immediately after the inline valve?
So you cannot have sprinklers and drip on the same zone?
Sounds like they run on different pressures. Maybe if you ran the drip off of the last sprinkler in the line and put the pressure regulator there, pure speculation though.
I watched a few videos on this subject. In all the videos they mention how drip system needs to be installed in dedicated zones because drip is watered at a much slower rate. For example, instead of 5-10 minute waterings in pop up zones, drip zones need at least 20 minutes watering time. If pop ups and drip were on same zone and irrigation set for 5 minutes the drip irrigation areas would be underwatered and dry and your plants will die. Opposite it setting for 20 minutes for drip. Pop up area plants will be over watered. Thus pop ups need separate zone from drip
12" emitter hose is junk; not enough water, and is random that a hole will align with a plant. use mirco tubing with adjustable nozzles!
this video is fantastic.
why cant you have sprinklers and drip on the same zone?
Water pressure requirements are different. If you use the same valve on a drip line the water would be spraying out like a sprinkler, not good. A drip line is a low water pressure system. Makes me wonder if you can just connect a tee and install a low pressure valve on an existing sprinkler zone.
SGspecial84 yes, they sell pressure regulators that connects right off the base of the existing sprinkler.
Pressure can be matched or regulated. The problem is run time. By the time the drip has run for an hour, the areas with spray or rotor heads have likely flooded or run off. If you only run long enough for the spray, then the drip zones are being under-irrigated.
You can run a three-quarter 1 inch PVC to the drip bed and add a low flow pressure regulator with filter at that point
Süper 💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
The most common installation error I see is staking the drip tube next to the plant's stem. This practically guarantees that the plant will die from root rot. Horticulturists know that irrigation should be under the drip line of the plant. Many clients have called H2 Xero Landscape because their plants are dying and have subsequently hired us to re-lay the drip tubing away from plant's stems. No more death from water.
what kind of plants are you talking about, that died? i've always put it very close. (plants that thrive well in zone 5)
Other than the one sprinkler you are converting to a drip, are you saying that you HAVE To cap off all the other sprinklers heads that are in the same zone?
Enuf Ots yes.
Bkuyk9 ***, but why exactly? Is it a pressure thing? In which case, why couldn’t a pressure reducer be inserted into the drip line only?
Drip irrigation emits water slowly (think a dripping faucet), which will require a longer water run time in order for plants to get enough water. In the heat of the summer, you may want to run your drip system 30-40 min a day, whereas, sprinkler heads water fast by spraying lots of water. You can imagine that if the two were operating in the same zone, there is no way to find a happy medium for both.