How to diagnose an Alternator, and properly install a One Wire alternator with more Amps.
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- Опубліковано 16 кві 2023
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In this video, "How to diagnose an Alternator, and properly install a One Wire 160 amp alternator." we go through how to troubleshoot to see if an alternator is bad, but more importantly, what to look for when you install a new alternator, especially if it's over 120 amps! Subscribe to follow along with the process, and for other project ideas for your ride!
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PARTS USED IN THIS VIDEO SERIES:
Tuff Stuff Alternator for March Serpentine Kits; www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSHCH7Q?...
Painless Performance High Amp Alternator Wire Kit;
www.amazon.com/dp/B004RZS6F0?...
Accel Motorcyle Battery Cable Set, 6 Gauge
www.amazon.com/dp/B001OMKFZ8?...
Painless Performance 1/2" Wire Loom
www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8K8GU?...
Painless Performance Full Loom Kit
www.amazon.com/dp/B001AVXRF8?...
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Glad it wasn’t a bigger issue thx for the learning 😊
Agreed! Thanks Will!
Hi Monty, I thought battery terminals or battery :). You mentioned an excuse for a new gauge - battery (voltage) I agree. Glade to see you fixed the problem. The wiring looks GREAT! Hats off to the Optima battery too.
Thanks Danno! Yeah, the Optima Yellow top is no joke. Funny, cuz I had starting issues a couple years ago, where my prior Yellow top was seven years old... exchanged it for a new one. Had Autozone test the old one... it tested fine! That means I've had this alternator issue for several years? Crazy, right? Thanks for the comment!
Haven't seen you post in awhile. Always good to see a new post from you pop up Mike. My guess is brush failure in old Alt. Good to see you've got the GTO rolling in time for the next event.
Thanks Rickey! Trying to post every other week... make sure you have the Bell clicked. Ha, ha... Yeah, that's my guess too... I'm tempted to go dumpster diving, and take that apart. Thanks for the comment!
@@Rick-O-Shay60 Ohhh, that's a fantastic idea! Gonna go dig that alternator out of the trash... thanks brother!
Great educational video!!
Thanks Anthony! For me as well! ha, ha...
Nice Job !!!
Thanks Greg!
Thank you so much Monty for this video!! I’m going through the same thing. I have a 1934 ford 3 window coupe that has the same March serpentine kit, with a March Crome alternator with a billet wheel that is about 10 years old. Changed the battery and it still wasn’t charging properly. The alternator spins freely, also shows on the voltage gauge that it was charging but at 10 volts. I checked the ground and it seems good. Thank you for the information about Tuff stuff making March alternators. I was struggling trying to find a good replacement.
Glad I could help! My next video is about converting that same alternator to 3 Wire, to get an idiot light to work. Thanks for the comment! Here's the link... ua-cam.com/video/GEoje-1rnVw/v-deo.htmlsi=wm2lm0-yVQUn2CAY
Great video Monty! You really should do the big 3/big 4 wiring upgrade. I’m rewiring my TA now and I’m using 2/0 wire from the starter to the fuse/battery in the trunk, plus a full run of 2/0 for the ground from the block to the battery in the trunk. I’m also adding an extra 2/0 ground off the block to the frame, the alternator bracket to the frame, and another 2/0 ground from the battery to the frame. Also use 100% oxygen free wire and copper lugs. I have a large audio system in my daily driver (340amp alt, large Northstar AGM main battery, cyber 12k lithium battery, and large amplifiers) It is wired nearly the same and my voltage is rock steady.
Agreed! It's already set up that way from the Starter to the trunk, as you can tell from the quick glimpse of the battery. Don't forget to get really good ground straps. I have a monster one from the frame to the body, and about 8 more spread out around the car connecting different panels, etc... Don't forget to get some conductive electrical grease for all those connections... it's called No ox it... on amazon; www.amazon.com/shop/fastmontysgarage/list/EKH9PQ33JIY1?ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d Thanks for the comment!
Bad alternator, at least it was an easy fix, no hunting for strange things. Hey, why not rebuild your old unit with a diode block and new regulator, which has new brushes, and put it on the shelf as a good spare?
Yep, thank god... and, yes, someone else mentioned that too, great idea! Autopsy coming soon. ha, ha... thanks Paul!
Hi Mike. I asked PowerMaster why my new alternator stopped so quickly (like yours does) when spinning by hand. They said it was normal because the new parts and brushes have to wear in together.
Yeah, makes perfect sense. I'm going to do an autopsy on the old one. We'll see!
Awesome video but I think the only thing I would’ve done different was I would’ve changed the belt rather than changing that pulley. I always say that because the bigger pulley might change the voltage coming out because it’s bigger on the old one that it is on the new one the new one with the smaller pulley is going to spin faster, therefore throwing more voltage, I think
I thought it would change the voltage too... but, according to Tuff Stuff, as long as it's within a certain range of RPM the regulator handles it. Since it was the original pully on the old TuffStuff alt, I didn't argue it. Thanks for the comment!
Ha! I knew you would find it 😊 I have been trying to track down the cause of my fusible link burning out in my 1990 Dodge Dakota, I did an alternator swap a few months ago when I got the I'm going to check that out it's one of the things I haven't checked yet been 3 months and I can't find the cause of the short😢
Ha! Thanks Brother! Sorry to hear about your challenge... I know that's extremely frustrating. Trace all those wires, and hopefully something is made obvious. Unless the fuseable link just needs to be upsized? just thinking out loud, especially if you've added more eletrical options, and a higher amp alternator... let us know.
@@FastMonty I didn't know you could up size the fusible link, I did install a stereo, the truck is now my daily driver I haven't gotten my newly rebuilt transmission to work in my 68 firebird, I got problems but I'm encouraged by your videos keep them coming. My Bird will fly again!
@@TheOneAboveAll-001 Ohhh the love of muscle cars. Sorry to hear that. Yup, fusible links come in different sizes. Might research that some more... only if you can't find the short.
Awesome video. I have a bad alternator on 65 c10. On other videos they suggest checking alternator fuse 1st but I can't find one. I have old 12v fuse box. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Great channel
Welp, I don't have an alternator fuse either... so, maybe that's for newer vehicles? Hope that helps.
thanks for the video and installation went well. the old alternator spun easier due to old bearings versus new?
Thanks... good question. I would think used bearings run rough? I might go dumpster diving and find that alternator and take it apart. :) Thanks for the comment!
as always great video . .
Question when you ran the dual fans, did you upgrade the ATL then ? (I may have missed it if you said it)
Thanks Raffi! I've been running the dual 11's for ten years, where I was using the same alternator. I have no idea how long the old one was not charging... scary, right? Thanks again!
Glad it was an easy fix Mike. I see your windshield wiper motor is modern, what is it out of?
Yeah, me too! Good catch on the wiper motor, it's not operational yet. But, it's a Chevelle wiper motor from Detroit Speed. So, if you have Chevelle, it'll work. lol
Cool, I will look into it. I am currently building a 71 Le Mans convertible, lots of work.
@@gonzalogonzalez4971 I hear you... one day at a time, you'll get there.
Good information! Do you have a video of the relocation of your battery to the trunk?
Thanks John... No, I do not. UA-cam came far after that point in the project. If I have time, or run out of video ideas, I'll try and summarize that one. Thanks!
So you just ran a 0 cable under car? What about ground? Not sure if your GTO has a full frame but my TA has a unibody so I’m not sure how grounding should be handled.
@@johnmcdonald3231 Ahhh, good question. Yes, same gauge from negative to the body, in the trunk. Then you get a Ground strap kit, which has several different sized straps. All of the pieces of metal need to be grounded to each other. For me, a giant ground strap from the body to the frame, then smaller straps from the block to the frame, fender to the frame, core support, to the frame, etc... obviously needs to be bare metal between the strap and sheetmetal/frame. I use a conductive grease called NO OX ID "A Special" between all electrical connections, including the battery posts. Hope that helps!
Thanks for the reply. Just one more haha. Where did you get the 0 gauge wire and did you wrap it with anything to protect it under the frame? ie wire loom
@@johnmcdonald3231 Most likely Summit Racing... just search Trunk Battery wiring kit. 2 gauge would probably work too.
From my understanding from “generators” you get a residual electric charge from any type of rotation. Since is AC voltage getting turned into DC voltage after your one way diode. So if it free spins it can be an indicator of it not having a strong enough magnetic field. Same reason why you should free tow teslas the wheels still spinning can cause a drag
Yup, makes sense... not sure if this is a brush motor either? I might go hit the dumpster, and take it apart. Ha, ha... Thanks for the comment!
No problem! Glad to see the gto on the road again, very inspiring 🤘🏽
@@cdiazcetina Thanks Carlos!
@@FastMonty Gotta say Carlos’s suggestion was quick to the point of being quite a sparky kinda guy love the comments thanks for the tutorial on the weird stuff that happens occasionally to us gear head’s 👍😎🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
@@markgiraldes4062 Ha! For sure... thanks for the comment!
you installed a 160a alternator with a 200a fuse. the fuse should be the weakest point in system and below the 160a ?
Good question. My understanding is if the wire from the fuse to the Alternator shorts out, the battery will start the fire, not the alternator. So, in essence, the fuse is oversized a bit to accommodate a little amp overhead, but if it shorts, you don't want 500 amps coming in from the battery. I also have a 200amp fuse in the trunk, near the battery, just in case the line from the trunk to the starter/alternator shorts. Same reason. Hope that helps.
@@FastMonty ok makes sense. i had remembered seeing a fusible link installed inline with the alternator wire and it was sized smaller. keep the videos coming as you make them easy to understand
How do you check the external regulator device
Good question... I have no idea? Cuz, I don't have one. I'm sure there's a way, Google is your friend. Good luck!
Hey Monty, did you have a weak start sometimes? I think I have a weak alternator I’m having a weak start and idle. dimming lights and when I give it gas it goes from 12.3 around about to 13.8 around about ive been having low voltage problems for a bit guessing that’s it. Got a multi meter but it doesn’t even turn on haha have to go return it for sure
Ha! A working multi meter is definitely helpful. But, it sounds like your alternator is working fine. Slow starts are typically starter/battery or even the gauge of wire used from the battery to the starter. Sorry, not helpful ... let us know if you figure it out. Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty hmm if it’s not the alternator with those symptoms, I’m guessing it’s this crap 10 gauge wire I have on my starter solenoid that came off it’s crimp or what I think was a attempt of one😂 it came off the starter solenoid and the car wouldn’t even crank when it was off. I couldn’t get it on properly that’s for sure. Hope it’s that at this point I’m lost with this Gran Torino😂
@@matthewenriquez8938 I'd say that's definitely a good place to start... see what I did there? Ha, ha... keep us posted!
@@FastMonty outta here with those dad jokes😂😂 jk that was good but i actually figured it out; took out my Torino for a long drive yesterday no overheating no voltage moving very happy about that. It was the connections on the old starter solenoid😂
@@matthewenriquez8938 Ha! Dad jokes are my life! Great to hear you're rollin!
i have a March system. I need the same alternator. Is there a chance you could give me the model number.
Of course! It's a Tuff Stuff Alternator... www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSHCH7Q?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzmikemont-20&creativeASIN=B01MSHCH7Q&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.2MZLR4U0XI069&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d_asin
I have the SAME alternator. These have caused me nothing but issue. I regret getting this march serpentine kit
Ohhh I hope this is not going to be a reoccurring issue. Thanks for the heads up! @@Se7enthsonSS
@@FastMonty I’ve had my serpentine set up for a year (5 days out of warranty). They told me to call tuff stuff. Luckily they accepted to rebuild my alternator. But if it failed after literally 7 months running and MAYBE 200 miles.
Yikes! I have Noooo idea when mine died, cuz I kept putting it on a tender after every trip. Except when it actually failed, I forgot to put it on tender between trips. Soooo, looks like another video topic, installing a Volt Gauge? Getting the idiot light to work??? Definitely need to know when we're not producing enough power. Thanks for the idea!@@Se7enthsonSS
It's easy to be a critic on this side of the computer screen, but if the engine starts to stumble and electrical components start to act weird while the engine is RUNNING, it's almost NEVER going to be the Battery. The battery is an electrical storage compartment and electrical buffer for the electrical system. When everything is connected properly, the alternator has a built-in regulator to maintain voltage, and it modulates necessary amperage based on electrical load. In other words, if the alternator fails (even during mid-trip), the available battery voltage (& capacity) will gradually diminish, causing drivability issues as components are starved for voltage..... okay: ELECTRICITY for the novice out there. This condition is immediately validated by the slow cranking speed during the attempted engine re-start: The battery has lost it's capacity. (Ok, Ok.... I'll give you props for the "Hot-Soak" condition - -- yes, this happens as well.) But sorry: The sequence of events and field-observations would immediately steer a seasoned technician towards the alternator, not the battery.
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Another technical error I'd like to point out: You are absolutely correct about never disconnecting the negative battery terminal while the engine is running. Yes, it can destroy electrical components on modern vehicles, but it's not due to amperage issues. It's due to voltage spikes. First, a voltage spike will happen as the neg wire is disconnected...the alternator is all of a sudden confused as to voltage regulation; it'll immediately max out and/or go haywire due to the absence of battery buffer in the circuit. Additionally, if this {terminal disconnect test} doesn't kill the electrical components, reconnection can due to another voltage spike event...as evident by the sparking terminals. Reading up on switch "bounce" validates this paragraph.
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Furthermore, recall the famous formulas "Volts x Amps = Watts" and Ohm's Law (V = I * R ). ...and here is the WATERED-DOWN explanation for this one: An electrical gismo is generally rated by power (watts) at a certain anticipated running voltage, but its internal resistance generally remains constant. A functional alternator, spinning with Neg battery terminal disconnected, will generally "Max-Out" on voltage and provide maximum amperage on demand. Going back to the formulas, they can be combined algebraically, resulting in {Voltage (squared)} / Resistance = Watts. If the gizmo resistance remains the same, and the voltage increases, then wattage increases by V (squared). Basically the gizmo burns up because it can't handle the power output. Solid State devices "burn up" due to overvoltage as well, but such properties can be vastly different and is a story for another book. ....basically damage is done at junctions. Oh... I'm not going down that rabbit hole.
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As for the new alternator spinning more "sticky"... too many variable to consider. Different bearings, different tolerances, different design. But generally speaking, things "loosen up" as they're broken in.
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....if you made it this far in reading, I've been a tech for 40+ years. I know a lot of stuff.
Yeah, what he said. And, I did read the whole thing... baaaahahahaha. Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty ...And when things loosen up, that's what SHE said. 😜
Seriously, you did a nice presentation and you emphasized (often overlooked) critical support components such as wire gauge.
{Just hypothetical numbers here, okay?}
Upgrading from a 90-Amp to a 150-Amp alternator doesn't mean it'll always pump out 150 Amps. ....Power produced will balance with power consumed.
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But my point is that upgrading (heavier-gauge) wire is a MUST to ensure an operational & safety margin. Good Going & Nice video.
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....we've all been there: Mistakes, learning curve.s, & corrections Me Too.
@@FastMonty would like to offer some input (pun intended) to one last item:: Swapping pulleys to accommodate belt length. ...not a good idea in long run. Installing a larger diameter pulley also decreases RPM at any given engine speed which surfaces 2 stress issues.
1.) Lower RPM = less airflow cooling, and
2.) Lower RPM actually causes internal components to work harder to produce required electrical output.
{ I'll refrain from all the tech reasons this time 'round }
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The alternator mfg designed the alternator with certain specifications which shouldn't be tampered with. And generally speaking, alternators are "happier" spinning at higher RPM.
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Unless you have an oversized (diameter) crank pulley [AKA Harmonic Balancer] ...which is doubtful... to compensate for accessory spinning RPM, I'd install the original pulley again & purchase a shorter belt to compensate.
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Yah !!
@@Schrimpieman Thanks! Yeah, I do embrace mistakes, cuz I learn that much faster. Thanks for the comment!
@@Schrimpieman I hear you... I also "ran this to ground", pun intended, with Tuff Stuff. They were perfectly fine with the diameter change. I didn't go into the details, cuz there's only a couple people out there that really care. ha, ha.... thanks!
Hmm, Perhaps the brushes, a simple task to verify might resolve this , before buying anther ALT?
There things are very straight forward and likely take standard diodes, bridges, brushes, springs bearings etc.
I got a lot of my GM ALT pieces for them from McCombs elec supply
Agreed. I'll be doing an autopsy soon, if I can fix it, the old alternator will be my spare. And, at least the new one has higher output. Thanks!