Glad to hear it worked out for you. I also fought a squeal for a long time, finally figured out it was alignment since I was using new brackets and spacers
I didn't know they made a one wire alternator for a classic Mustang. Sure wish they would have had these in 1985 when I was working on my 1965 mustang....lots of alternator issues. Great Video!!
Thank you for posting! Tried to install one today and had issues with this. Thought there was a way to clock but wasn't sure the steps. This will make it easy!
Hello, very good video, I recently bought the same alternator for my 68 mustang, I want to know if when I connect I will lose the marker on my dashboard
Did you run a ground wire? You showed the terminal at the beginning of the video but didn't mention negative afterward. Or is it grounded through the mounting bolt to the block?
Hi, I’m Rey from California. We own a 68 Mustang GT with the Original 289eng, w a 4bb carb. My 3 wire alternator gave out.!. so I would like to replaced it with a tuff stuff 7068 1 wire.!. What bolt size do you have on your Engine block. I have a 7/16” bock. And What wire do I keep on my Starter Solenoid for my 68 Mustang.?.
Idk if you’ll be able to answer this but I was trynna reclock my alternator but did the whole process wrong ended up pulling the back part up to rotate like an idiot and a spring fell out of place and I’m not a car guy. In fact this is my first time trying this myself but I was wondering if you could inform me what the spring is or how to put it back into place if possible
Kind of hard to answer here, but I remember the first time that happened to me. That's a spring-loaded brush likely, just Google how to put new brushes in the alternator and that will show you how to remove and install them. It's real simple once you see it. Good luck!
No you shouldent even need it if your install a one internely regulated alternator. But fot shits and giggles you can hollow it out and store your your weed in it
Summit racing will also have the Scott Drake upper and lower alternator brackets you need if your galaxie was originally a generator car. You can ditch that huge generator bracket
I mean inbetween the battery and the solinoid you should put a 50 to 70 amp maxi fuse or a 50 to 70 amp automotive circuit breaker to replace the fusible link as a safty precaution
Great video! I saw that you tested your work, but can I ask what your process was for that? What do you set the multimeter to? I saw one end of the test lead on the battery, but I couldn’t see anything else. Thank you again for this!
Thanks for the kind words. I set my voltmeter to 20 volts DC, then I just put the negative probe on the negative terminal (I think that was behind my arm so you could not see it) then the positive probe on the positive terminal of the battery to confirm that the new alternator is charging at 14.xx volts or so. Let me know if you have any other questions!
This was such a helpful video. I did this on my '65 and had to re-clock. I had to use my old pulley because of squeal though.
Glad to hear it worked out for you. I also fought a squeal for a long time, finally figured out it was alignment since I was using new brackets and spacers
Knowing how to re-clock is always useful. And 1 wire alternators make everything so neat and tidy. 😀👍
Absolutely! Thanks for watching sir
I didn't know they made a one wire alternator for a classic Mustang. Sure wish they would have had these in 1985 when I was working on my 1965 mustang....lots of alternator issues. Great Video!!
Thanks for watching! This is an aftermarket alternator that is based on the GM SI alternator frame.
Thank you for posting! Tried to install one today and had issues with this. Thought there was a way to clock but wasn't sure the steps. This will make it easy!
Hope this helps!
@@RiggsGarage worked perfect. Thanks so much.
Finally found the video i needed… thanks
Glad to help, thank you
Thanks! Its nice to learn something new (clocking)
Thanks for watching 🙏
Hello, very good video, I recently bought the same alternator for my 68 mustang, I want to know if when I connect I will lose the marker on my dashboard
Did you run a ground wire? You showed the terminal at the beginning of the video but didn't mention negative afterward. Or is it grounded through the mounting bolt to the block?
I did not run a ground wire, the alternator is grounded to the chassis like you say. Thanks for watching
Hi, I’m Rey from California. We own a 68 Mustang GT with the Original 289eng, w a 4bb carb.
My 3 wire alternator gave out.!. so I would like to replaced it with a tuff stuff 7068 1 wire.!. What bolt size do you have on your Engine block. I have a 7/16” bock. And What wire do I keep on my Starter Solenoid for my 68 Mustang.?.
Have you had any problems with the ford one wire alternator and do you consider it a good upgrade?
I wanna see you drive that ole beast! lol
Been doing house projects, Will be back on the cars soon!
Idk if you’ll be able to answer this but I was trynna reclock my alternator but did the whole process wrong ended up pulling the back part up to rotate like an idiot and a spring fell out of place and I’m not a car guy. In fact this is my first time trying this myself but I was wondering if you could inform me what the spring is or how to put it back into place if possible
Kind of hard to answer here, but I remember the first time that happened to me. That's a spring-loaded brush likely, just Google how to put new brushes in the alternator and that will show you how to remove and install them. It's real simple once you see it. Good luck!
Does the voltage gauge still work after doing this?
Great question. None of my gauges work so I can't say.
What kind of volt meter was that in the end?
When doing this conversion go you have to do anything for the horn to work as it is wired into the old voltage regulator?
Should be on a different circuit, My horn doesn't work, so I need to dig into that
Did your alternator squeal when you started the vehicle after you reclocked it?
Yes, had to tighten the belt a lot more than I thought I would need to
@@RiggsGarage thanks! I ended up doing the same. Agree on tightness.
Where can I buy the tough stuff 100 amp one wire alternator for my 1973 Ford F250 0:00 0:00
I believe I got it off of Amazon or summit racing
Do I still need to keep my external voltage regulator plugged in?
No you shouldent even need it if your install a one internely regulated alternator. But fot shits and giggles you can hollow it out and store your your weed in it
Sooooo 8 gauge cable seems pretty small for 100 amps. I would definitely go with at least a 6 gauge, but better off with a 4 gauge wire.
You're probably right, I'll grab some. Easy fix. Thank you
lets see the rest if the mustang...
I have a few videos of it on the channel, check it out
I have a 68 ford galaxy 500 302 what do I need to do to add this
Order an alternator, bolt it in, wire it like this. Am I missing something? Thanks for watching
Summit racing will also have the Scott Drake upper and lower alternator brackets you need if your galaxie was originally a generator car. You can ditch that huge generator bracket
What do you do with the existing wires ?
I removed those along with the voltage regulator unit. They went into the dumpster
@@RiggsGarageSo your voltage regulator didn’t attach to your main wire harness? If I do what you did, I got no juice beyond my starter solenoid.
You need a fuse man or a circuit breaker
I'll look into it, thanks for the idea
What do you mean? in-line between the alternator and the positive battery lug? What rating fuse or breaker?
I mean inbetween the battery and the solinoid you should put a 50 to 70 amp maxi fuse or a 50 to 70 amp automotive circuit breaker to replace the fusible link as a safty precaution
On the positive side btw
Great video! I saw that you tested your work, but can I ask what your process was for that? What do you set the multimeter to? I saw one end of the test lead on the battery, but I couldn’t see anything else. Thank you again for this!
Thanks for the kind words. I set my voltmeter to 20 volts DC, then I just put the negative probe on the negative terminal (I think that was behind my arm so you could not see it) then the positive probe on the positive terminal of the battery to confirm that the new alternator is charging at 14.xx volts or so. Let me know if you have any other questions!