2007-2013 Toyota Corolla How to replace upstream oxygen sensor Αντικατάσταση αισθητήρα ΄΄λ''
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- OEM Part Number for Sensor, Oxygen 89465-02140
An oxygen sensor (or lambda sensor, where lambda refers to air-fuel equivalence ratio, usually denoted by λ) is an electronic device that measures the proportion of oxygen (O2) in the gas or liquid being analysed.
It was developed by Robert Bosch GmbH during the late 1960s under the supervision of Dr. Günter Bauman. The original sensing element is made with a thimble-shaped zirconia ceramic coated on both the exhaust and reference sides with a thin layer of platinum and comes in both heated and unheated forms. The planar-style sensor entered the market in 1990 and significantly reduced the mass of the ceramic sensing element, as well as incorporating the heater within the ceramic structure.[1] This resulted in a sensor that started sooner and responded faster.
The most common application is to measure the exhaust-gas concentration of oxygen for internal combustion engines in automobiles and other vehicles in order to calculate and, if required, dynamically adjust the air-fuel ratio so that catalytic converters can work optimally, and also determine whether the converter is performing properly or not. Divers also use a similar device to measure the partial pressure of oxygen in their breathing gas.
Scientists use oxygen sensors to measure respiration or production of oxygen and use a different approach. Oxygen sensors are used in oxygen analyzers, which find extensive use in medical applications such as anesthesia monitors, respirators and oxygen concentrator so.
Oxygen sensors are also used in hypoxic air fire prevention systems to continuously monitor the oxygen concentration inside the protected volumes.
There are many different ways of measuring oxygen. These include technologies such as zirconia, electrochemical (also known as galvanic), infrared, ultrasonic, paramagnetic, and very recently, laser methods.
I was going to be charged 300 US dollars for changing oxygen sensor bank 1 in 2004 Corolla... watched your video and did it myself. Thank you Gianis.
You are welcome my friend. Yes, you can do it yourself. Fortune favors the bold.
@@YiannisPagonisthis is the video do you remember?
@@Blu-Man Of course I remember, I remember everything. What exactly do you want to know my friend?
Good work Yiannis. Even without a word, I understood it. Nice video. Thank you man.
Thank you, too to help you
Great work as always Yiannis! Very informative, easy to understand and helpful tips. Thanks for taking the time to show how its done. Really appreciated 👍
Yiannis 👍
Thank you my friend
@@YiannisPagonis You're welcome Yiannis
@@kurtrisblow Thank you my friend Kieran Curtin
Helpful video, epic music score. Thank you. 🙏
You are welcome my friend and happy new year. God bless and protect you and your family.🙌
@@YiannisPagonis same to you, sir
Yannis, do you want to lube up the threading on the new sensor before you put it in, or just put straight in? If yes, WD40 or a little motor oil? Thx in advance.
Never mind, sir. I found some anti seize lube and put a small dab on the sensor thread as well as the housing bolts. Felt fine, I’d say. Thx tho!
@@DavidNewbould Well done my friend you did well. I would say you did your best. So the next time you need to remove it then it will be easier for you. This also fights rust and corrosion.
Yiannis...
You must get O2 Censor Sockets or Wrench now 😃
Anyhow, very good job 👍🏿
Yes unfortunately, because otherwise it can not be removed. To do a job in the right way you must have the right tools because otherwise you will do damage.
nice one hand camera operation!
thank's my friend
The entire video I had no clue where in the vehicle he is. Cool. Try again
This part car is located behind the engine, on the exhaust manifold.
Great Video
Thank you
Nice on Yiannis! Many thanks!
You are welcome my friend
Great video bud
You are welcome my friend 🙏🙏
Nice job Yiannis.
Thank you my friend Ray
I took heat shield of too.😊
Well done my friend, you did well 😁😁😁😁😉😉😉😉
This is a air fuel ratio sensor in the upstream part before the cat, after the cat there is a normal oxygen sensor. Normal voltage for toyota is 3.3 volts for the air fuel ratio sensor and 0.5 volt for the oxygen sensor.
Thanks my friend for your information
How are you my friend?
My car read P003. HO2S Heater control circuit low ( Bank 1 Sensor 1 ) that meant it was the oxygen sensor before the catalytic converter, the one shown at minute 4:24. I was able to replace it with out taking off the heat shield using the following kit OEM Tools 27110.
Yes, you have to use the one that looks like a deep socket because if you try and use the one that looks like a wrench, it’s too fat to fit around the lip where the o2 sensor goes. The 2009 you don’t have to remove the heat shield.
Thank you, Yiannis! Because of this video, I gave you a thumbs up!
Thank❤ you my👭👬👫 friend😊
Thanks, very helpful. However, a extension torque wrench would be easier to reach the screws.
You are welcome and thank you 🙌🙌🙌🙌
Thanks for the video I have a 2010 corolla and it's got the the 1/2 lip on upstream I'd rather use a 7/8 combo. Does anyone know the best way to remove that lip to just use a wrench instead of a socket?
It looks just like my 2004 Corolla
In many places it is the same but it is of a different generation.
A few words about the story:
The first Corolla was introduced in Japan in 1966 and was released in two body types (two-door & four-door sedan, two-door station wagon). It was designed to be a "people's car", but its superior build quality and rich equipment were rarely found in this class. The floor-mounted gearbox was impressive at the time. Independent bucket seats offered firm support to front passengers, while the rear bench offered the spaciousness and comfort of a sofa. Although the car was classified as a small-medium, nevertheless the high roof made the interior extremely spacious. The name Corolla (of Latin origin, from the phrase crown of flowers) was chosen in the hope that the vehicle would flourish in the car market. And that's exactly what happened: within three years, the first-generation Corolla led sales in Japan, and they quickly expanded to other countries around the world. In November 1966, Toyota opened a new factory in Takaoka, Aichi Prefecture, dedicated solely to the production of the Corolla. Two years later, with the aim of offering vehicles tailored to each geographic area of its commercial interest, production began in Australia and Malaysia. From 1965 to 1968, Toyota more than doubled its total annual production from 480,000 to 1.1 million vehicles, a testament to the Corolla's significant contribution to the company's growth. In Europe, the Corolla arrived in April 1967. European production at Toyota Motor Manufacturing Turkey (TMMT) in Sakarya began with the 7th generation of the model in 1994, continued with the 8th and 9th, and then returned to TMMT with the 11th generation in 2013. Corolla exports to North America began in 1968, and immediate sales success there helped the car's total cumulative sales reach one million just four years after launch. In 1997 the Corolla became a global best-seller, with cumulative sales from 1966 to that year worldwide exceeding 22.65 million units. By 2013, Toyota Corolla had already sold 40 million vehicles worldwide. By its 50th birthday, production was taking place in 16 factories around the world, and over 44 million units had been sold. At that time a total of 3,670 Corollas were sold every day in over 150 countries and regions.
1st generation: 1966-1970 Under the guidance of development manager Tatsuo Hasegawa, Corolla designers wanted to conquer the general public. The main principle of the program was to create a Corolla with a sporty look and feel. The new car was released in a wide variety of bodies and adopted many new technologies, new to the Japanese market, such as MacPherson strut suspension and a four-speed gearbox. The model range consisted of a two-door sedan, a four-door sedan and a two-door station-wagon.
2nd generation: 1970-1974 With the end of production of the first generation Corolla, engineers and designers were faced with a challenge: to continue the success of the first model, through the development of its successor. In the year the millionth Corolla was built this new model was designed as an "all new Corolla". And while gently curving lines dominated the exterior, under the body, a larger leaf spring suspension improved ride comfort and handling. In 1972, the range was extended to four body styles with the launch of a coupe. With the famous 2T-G engine, the Corolla Levin proved to be the choice of sports car lovers.
3rd Generation: 1974-1979 1974 was a challenging year for the next generation Corolla. Strict emissions rules required special engine and exhaust system development before the new model could receive type approval. Toyota pioneered the development of catalytic converters that are still in use today. This cleaner, more efficient Corolla benefited from another modern innovation - the aerodynamics were tunnelled, and its results influenced the exterior design to manage air resistance more efficiently. Inside, quality and ergonomics have improved, with the Corolla feeling more expensive.
4th generation: 1979-1983 After another oil crisis, the Japanese economy appears to be on the mend. In this climate of renewed optimism, the fourth generation Corolla made its appearance on the world stage. It has been redefined as a luxurious yet economical family car with superior overall performance that meets the diverse needs of users. As aerodynamics played a key role in the design of a vehicle, the new Corolla would spend over 400 hours in the wind tunnel. In order not to deviate from its original design, it has evolved smoothly with clean lines into a body with almost no curves. Behind the exterior, comfort and stability levels have been improved with a new 4-link suspension, while in response to new environmental pressures, a new 1.8 diesel engine has been introduced.
5th generation: 1983-1987 Head of development Fumio Agesuma launched the 5th generation Corolla as a highly innovative model, saying it had to be revolutionary like the first Corolla. In fact, it was the first to be designed and studied with the help of a computer, saving time and resources in the design of the engine and the exterior. With its sloping nose and rounded wedge-shaped shape the new car would be the first of the family with front-wheel drive. Rear-wheel drive coupe models emphasized sporty driving characteristics, using the 1.5 or 1.6 engine, in both cases mounted on the longitudinal axis. This latest version, popularly known as the Hachi-Roku (or eight-six in Japanese) referring to its chassis code of 'AE86', was the last Corolla with rear-wheel drive. Numerous racing successes and triumphs in rally races have made the model one of the most beloved and iconic in Toyota's modern history.
6th generation: 1987-1991 The key word in the development of the new Corolla was quality: both in the feeling the car exuded and in how its owners felt. It was a matter of utmost importance that it not only satisfy the owners, but also impress them with its quality. Over 2,000 improvements were proposed while more than 100 component manufacturers improved the functionality of all areas of the car, from noise reduction to the use of soft materials on the dashboard and controls.
7th generation: 1991-1995 1991 marked the launch of the 7th generation Corolla. Its development focused on three main areas: design style, driving performance, safety and reliability. With an emphasis on small but important details and plenty of room for the family, the engineers of the time wanted to create a car that would offer more substantial satisfaction to owners and more Corolla-quality memories.
8th generation: 1995-2000 1995 was a time of environmental and economic concern, let alone for those responsible for the development of the 8th generation Corolla. With a sluggish economy in the country of manufacture, the development team began to build a new model as requested by consumers: one that would reduce the impact on the planet and be more efficient and economical to acquire and maintain. And they made just that: a sophisticated car that managed to become the No. 1 seller in Japan, reducing the total cost of ownership and offering a safer, quieter and higher-quality midsize model.
9th generation: 2000-2006 2000 brought with it the launch of the 9th generation Corolla designed in Europe for the first time. Taking on the responsibility of breaking ties with the past and ushering in new standards for the 21st century, the new model was designed from the ground up to be affordable. Apart from ease of use and reliability, its main features were the superior levels of interior quality and comfort, which rivaled higher classes.
10th generation: 2006-2013 2006 marked a major milestone in Corolla's history, namely the 40th anniversary of sales since they started in Japan. With the launch of the 10th generation, a new design trend appeared. The development manager, Soichiro Okudaira, created a new model with a global perspective and scale. Dynamic performance met the highest European standards, while usability and spaciousness had to meet the demands of the North American market. The engineers relied on the "5-minute experience rule", where customers would recognize the quality of the new model within the first five minutes of driving it.
11th generation: 2013-2017. In 2013, the 11th generation Corolla was born. With more than 44 million sold worldwide in 50 years, this generation was characterized by greater exterior luxury, an emphasis on perceived quality and the highest levels of technology and safety equipment.
The 12th generation begins its career where all three body versions (hatchback, sedan and Touring Sports) will now carry the same legendary name.
I have a 7/8" wrench, I think I can use it for a 22mm. The wire is replaced, can't you just cut the old one and get it out of the way?
thanks for making this, I just wanted to know if I was going to have to crawl under it or not.
I think the better way to remove it is not under the car.
Yiannis Pagonis I agree.
I wasn't sure at the time.
Γιάννη καλησπέρα !!
Κάθε 100 χιλιόμετρα μου ανάβει η λυχνία της μηχανής και καθώς το διαβάζω με το car scanner μου βγάζει τον εξής κωδικό :P0420 control unit 10
Caralytic converter system ,bank 1-efficiency below treshold
Οποιαδήποτε βοήθεια δεκτή πρωτου ξεκινήσω και αλλάζω πράγματα χωρίς λόγο !!σ ευχαριστω !!
Μπορώ να μετρήσω τους αισθητήρες με καποιο όργανο ;
P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) μεταφράζετε "Αποδοτικότητα συστήματος καταλύτη κάτω από το όριο (Bank 1)" σημαίνει ΄΄Τιμή χωρητικότητας αποθήκευσης οξυγόνου μικρότερη από την τυπική τιμή υπό έλεγχο αναλογίας ενεργού καυσίμου αέρα''
ΠΕΡΙΟΧΗ ΠΡΟΒΛΗΜΑΤΟΣ (ΕΛΕΓΞΕ ΤΑ ΠΑΡΑΚΑΤΩ):
α. Τυχόν διαρροή καυσαερίων από την πολλαπλή εξαγωγή
β. Αισθητήρας αναλογίας καυσίμου αέρα (είναι ο ΠΡΩΤΟΣ αισθητήρας 1)
γ. Θερμαινόμενος αισθητήρας οξυγόνου (είναι ο ΔΕΥΤΕΡΟΣ αισθητήρας 2)
δ. Υποσυγκρότημα μετατροπέα πολλαπλής εξαγωγής για τυχόν διαρροές (είναι προέκταση σωλήνα της πολλαπλής εξαγωγής και βρίσκεται στον μπροστινό καταλύτη)
ε. Υποσυγκρότημα μετατροπέα κεντρικής πολλαπλής για τυχόν διαρροές (είναι η συνέχεια του παραπάνω σωλήνα)
Υπόδειξη:
α. Ο αισθητήρας 1 (ΠΡΩΤΟΣ) αναφέρεται στον αισθητήρα που βρίσκεται πιο κοντά στο συγκρότημα του κινητήρα.
β. Ο αισθητήρας 2 (ΔΕΥΤΕΡΟΣ) αναφέρεται στον αισθητήρα που βρίσκεται πιο μακριά από το συγκρότημα του κινητήρα.
Τέλος για να επιθεωρήσεις και τους 2 αισθητήρες οξυγόνου (τον αισθητήρα αναλογία καυσίμου αέρα και τον Θερμαινόμενο αισθητήρα οξυγόνου) πρέπει ελέγξης την αντίσταση αυτών χρησιμοποιώντας ένα ωμόμετρο ή πολύμετρο μεταξύ των ακροδεκτών της φίσας (αλλά αυτό είναι μια άλλη ιστορία που δεν λέγεται με λόγια).
Επίσης εάν ο καταλύτη σου ή άλλο σημείο του συστήματος εξαγωγής καυσαερίων είναι βρώμικο/α ή αρκετά βουλωμένο/α μπορεί να σου παρουσιάσει αυτό το πρόβλημα
Αρχικά ΚΑΘΑΡΙΣΕ και τους 2 αισθητήρες με ένα καθαριστικό για φρένα, για καρμπυρατέρ, WD-40, κλπ για να φύγει η σκληρή καρβουνίλα από την κεφαλή του αισθητήρα και μετά προχώρησε σε άλλους ελέγχους.
@@YiannisPagonis σ ευχαριστω πολύ για τις οδηγίες σου Γιάννη .θα το πάω σιγά σιγά και βλεπουμε γιατί όλα τα εξαρτήματα της εξαγωγής είναι ακριβά και δεν είναι να αλλάζουμε ότι να νε μέχρι να το πετύχουμε
@@giwrgosgiann278 Γιώργο αν χρειαστείς ανταλλακτικά μπορώ να σου βρω σε οικονομικές τιμές
1 and 2 sensor same? If the two connectors are the same.
No they are not, they are different from each other
@@YiannisPagonis thank you. :)
@@gaborkovacs8039 You are welcome my friend 🙏
Why did you open it? You didn't clean that.
The video is tutorial. I just showed the process.
Where can I buy the right upstream oxigen sensor toyota corolla s 2013 please
Is your car like mine (E150, 2007-2013, 10th generation Corolla)?
It is not necessary to remove the heat shield if you use an oxygen sensor socket
I know that my friend! But what if you do not have this special tool? Then what do you do? So there is a cheaper, easier and safer way to remove this sensor. You do not agree?
Is it easy to change the cat?
What cat?
Porfavor Cómo consigo el detector de oxigeno y cómo se llama eso ?? Tengo un corolla 2012
www.banggood.com/CY-12C-Gas-Analyzer-Professional-Portable-O2-Oxygen-Concentration-Content-Tester-Meter-High-Accuracy-Oxygen-Detector-Monitor-p-1807893.html?gmcCountry=GR¤cy=EUR&cur_warehouse=CN&createTmp=1&ad_id=534554931006&gclid=CjwKCAjw2P-KBhByEiwADBYWCpc74yw9aPBj45YNUpLhRxA_G88knmeo8NZBK9ptxRrKXZ_GpTUrhRoCHcMQAvD_BwE
www.banggood.com/Portable-Ozone-Analyzer-Multifunctional-O-Ozone-Meter-Air-Detector-Intelligent-Sensor-Ozone-Meter-Air-Quality-Pollution-Monitor-p-1757665.html?gmcCountry=GR¤cy=EUR&cur_warehouse=CN&createTmp=1&ad_id=534554931006&gclid=CjwKCAjw2P-KBhByEiwADBYWCpkDZgGwYATABMJJ9kq3acS8_xHAJtt8s1vg3GYA1jTKzrcc2Kx5ThoC0yYQAvD_BwE
www.fruugo.gr/o2-oxygen-concentration-content-tester-oxygen-detector-monintor-meter-cy12c-pro-new-2019/p-62570636-126469800?language=en&ac=croud&gclid=CjwKCAjw2P-KBhByEiwADBYWCu2xQLcQ5cNmwj5-fb7Dad8OS7i-EkzOlLmtMiUaft-iBUKO8uvX2xoC-3kQAvD_BwE
you had to remove plastic first right? do you need to remove wipers also to get plastic of?
No my friend you don't need to remove any of these 2 that you say to remove the sensor.
@@YiannisPagonis hi are you sure Yiannis? I have a 2009 Corolla and the wiper cowl/panel blocks access. It doesn't look like it is as wide-open as the model you are working on.
@@stevengiglio4896 Yes, my Corolla is a 2008 model, petrol-powered. There may be some differences between this generation.
Can you remove the sensor without removing the metal frame? My bolts are rusted
Yes of course you can. You can use an Oxygen lambda sensor socket removal set tool.
www.ebay.com/itm/153982751551
Amigo como é que troca a segunda sonda lambda do Corolla? Aquela que vai no catalisado? o chicote entra no assoalho do carro não sei como desconecta-lo.
My friend speak english to understand you ok?
I know that there is 2 location of the sensor. Is this downstream? Or upstream? I bought the downstream i just want to make sure i am puting it in the correct location. Thanks
Thank's my friend
This is upstream, bank 1, near (closer) to the engine.
thanks Mr Yiannis, i just wanted to know if you replace O2 circuit high voltage bank 1, sensor 2 or bank 2 sensor 1?
I replaced the upper oxygen sensor. There is one more under exhaust.
If it's 4 cylinders only has 2 sensors... It could be bank 1 SENSOR 1....BUT I COULD BE WRONG...
This was bank 1 sensor 1.
Bank 1 sensor 2 is under the car. There is no bank 2.
Hi Yanis. My Corolla has same issue. I want to take the censor out and clean it .after that I will put it back in. Is this the only one that I have to do? Please reply. Thanks for great video.
You can use Graphite Lubricant Grease
What issue
What do you mean?
Hi Yiannis. I just took my car to the Toyota service center. Because the engine check light was on. They tell me that one of the 2 oxygen sensors is faulty and will require replacement.
Cost of part $450 dollars + labor ($140/hr).
They told me I can shop around if I don't want to do it with them.
So I didn't commit to change it right on the spot.
While driving back home I notice the engine check light is no longer on. Could it be that maybe it only required a little touch? Maybe it was a bit loose? Why if they didn't replace the sensor the light is not turned on?
Amazon sells the Denso branded O2 sensors for toyota (which is brand the dealer uses) for less than $100 per sensor. You can buy those and put them on yourself, or have a mechanic that isn't the dealer put the ones on that you bought for probably less than an hour labor total. Don't waste your money with the toyota dealer putting their parts in. There mark up is ludicrous.
@@chrisryan8863 yes. I made my mind. Yesterday I visited a local mechanic, some friends recommend him. They look very friendly and I took the quote that Toyota gave me and they said the same thing, that's a rip off the part doesn't cost that much at all.
I would gladly go with this mechanic pay him well, get him to sell me the part at an ethical markup, and I would also be supporting the local micro-economy of my neighborhood.
@@chrisryan8863 I actually going to stop going to the Toyota Dealer for the regular maintenance and oil changes too. My cars are old enough that there isn't any warranty I don't think. So there's no point in spending too much money there.
Rodolfo Yoshii how much did the mechanic charge in comparison?
@@mateoy312 Oh I was keeping the invoice, don't recall the exact numbers, but it was about 1/3 of the price that the Toyota Service Center wanted to charge me. The mechanic was honest enough to tell me that after inspecting the part he said it still looked "OKish", and asked me if I really wanted a new part. I said, yeah change it, even with a new part I paid about 1/3.
I will never go back to the Toyota Dealer for this car, 2 reasons:
- Overpriced
- My car is no longer in any warranty
And because I found a local mechanic that's very honest, he's been in the business in our community for about 20 years I think. So I even feel good by supporting the local economy. I would even tip him after his job.
Me gustó.
gracias en español
IN greek "ευχαριστώ"
Are you from Spain?
Did you put back in the same one that you took out??
yes i did
how many bank 1 upstream 02 sensor does a 2007 Corolla have?
There is only 1
Will this be the same for a 2014 corolla?
Is there a specified O2 sensor for toyota corolla 2006?
To clean what my friend?
My mechanic told me i cant use just any heat sensor ,that i have to get the specified ones for meant for toyota Corolla
yea use the bosch part # 13544 for the 1st sensor, benzo part # 2344233 for the second
Yes. It is a Denso O2 sensor. Both the upsteam (air/fuel ration sensor) and the downstream O2 sensor that connects to the catalytic converter can be bought on Amazon prime for less than $100 per sensor. That is WAY less money than buying it anywhere else. And Denso is the OEM for Toyota so it would be better to use than Bosch or any other brand. Toyota Corollas can be finicky with aftermarket brands when it comes to sensors!
Do you have to buy only genuine oem o2 sensors or does bosch work?
Bosch always works. It’s Bosch
Can you tell me please what size the 4 bolts are? And the nut on the 02 sensor?
For 4 bolts are 12 mm socket and the sensor is 22 mm my friend.
hello
which key number used to remove the protector and multiple sensor?
It is twelve (12) mm socket to remove it
@
Yiannis Pagonis hi there. Can you please let me know, the value of resistance of the heater in O2 sensor in Normal Temperature? Thank you in advance :-)
Yes of course I can tell you my dear
Inspect heated oxygen sensor
Check the resistance
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminals.
Standard Resistance:
Tester connection Condition Specified condition
HT - +B 20 °C (68°F) 11 to 16 Ω
HT - E - 10 kΩ or higher
If the resistance is not asspecified, replace the heated oxygen sensor
Be careful when connecting the multimeter (ohmmeter) terminals.
Thank you very much!!!!
@@YiannisPagonis Yiannis usta oksijen sensörünün Almin'nin sorusuna cevabında anlattığın şekilde sağlamlık kontrol videosunu da çekebilir misin? Şimdiden çok teşekkür ederim. Kolay gelsin.
What size wrench did u use to get the sensor out ???
It is 22 mm socket my friend
@@YiannisPagonis I think 7/8" will work also.
Plz What use the serial number of this capture sand lambda ?!
What exactly do you mean my friend?
Anyone knows why needs a replacement this sensor? What is a reason for replacing? 🤔 my 1.4d4d stopped when I passed 1400rpm!!!
why do you need to replace this sensor?
If an oxygen sensor fails, the engine computer won't be able to correctly set the air-fuel ratio, which could result in lower fuel economy, higher emissions and damage to other components, such as an overheated catalytic converte.
What causes an oxygen sensor to fail?
Oxygen sensor failures can be caused by various contaminants that enter the exhaust. These include silicates from internal engine coolant leaks (due to a leaky head gasket or a crack in a cylinder wall or combustion chamber) and phosphorus from excessive oil consumption (due to worn rings or valve guides).
How do I know if my upstream or downstream oxygen sensor is bad?
A decrease in fuel efficiency can be a telltale sign that an O2 sensor is not performing as it should. This can happen because of a fuel mixture that is either too lean or too rich. Such a swing in A/F ratio is a sign that an upstream or control sensor is faulty.
But your problem is the Coolant Temperature Sensor
@@YiannisPagonis thanks for your helpful information 👍 this coolant sensor is mounted on outside of the radiator coolant? The fail code when the engine stops is P1229!(fuel pump sistem) but isn't not correct because I replaced a egr valve + a brand new 4injectors + diesel pump and also a fuel pressure sensor on common rail!! and still exactly the same!! unbelievable the car was in toyota dealer and no-one can find a problem 😳 that's a toyota corolla more expensive in world 🙄 the engine started very good but when pressed the gas pedal after 1400rpm the engine stops and after needs a deleted a fail code and go again! I use the car every day but I can not passing a 1400rpm maximum 1500rpm!!! this is amazing fucking electronic problem!! I would like to find the right problem 🙄🤔 anyway I appreciate your help you know much about toyotas and you are a really mechanic 👏👌👍 here in Norway only have guys for replacing a parts!! Nothing more!! fucking dumbs👎😔 have a great day mate 👍
@@jorgefonseca9225 Listen now my friend jorge fonseca from Norway. After several hours of searching and thinking on the internet what I found about your problem: The coolant temperature sensor may be broken or malfunctioning, for example, which means that the engine will "think" it is hotter than it is. For this check the "Coolant Temperature Sensor".
1. How to remove the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (in mine is on the right side of the engine, as you can see the engine from the front, near the air filter):
a. Remove the engine plastic cover.
b. Drain the engine coolant.
c. Remove the air filter cover.
d. Disconnect the engine coolant temperature sensor connector.
e. Using a 19 mm deep socket wrench, remove the sensor.
f. Remove the gasket from the engine coolant temperature sensor.
2. Inspect the engine coolant temperature sensor (How to measure the sensor resistance):
a. Heat water in a small pot until the water temperature shows you 80 ° C (with the help of a thermometer which is in the hot water).
b. Immerse the tip of the sensor in hot water.
c. Using a multimeter or ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the sensor terminals. The normal resistance is (depending on the water temperature) as follows:
20°C 2.32 to 2.59 kΩ
80°C 0.310 to 0.326 kΩ
CAUTION:
When checking the engine coolant temperature sensor in water, keep the terminals dry. After the test, wipe the sensor thoroughly. If the resistance is not as specified, replace the engine coolant temperature sensor.
d. Install the engine coolant temperature sensor and a new gasket.
Torque: 20 N·m (204 kgf·cm, 14 ft·lbf)
e. Connect the engine coolant temperature sensor connector, etc etc.
BE CAREFUL that there may be a second coolant temperature sensor like mine which is located under the manifold, just above the starter.
Thanks and I hope I helped you somehow.
@@YiannisPagonis hi 👋 thanks for your precious help 👏👏 I will do that the soon as possible 😊 i need buying that sensor first! After I do exactly what you said 👌👍 I apreciate your exelente help 👏👍👍 you are really a professional mechanic 👏👌👍👍 have a great day cheers from Norway 🇳🇴🤗🤗
@@jorgefonseca9225 Thank you my friend for your kind words. Before you buy this sensor you should make sure 100% (doing the test CORRECTLY) that the sensor is indeed in bad condition and needs to be replaced. I wish you all the best, to finally restore this problem that has been bothering you for a long time. Greetings from Greece.
You put the old one back.
Yes it is. This video is only tutorial
And the connector? Just forget about it!
Number part sensor?
OEM Part Number for Oxygen Sensor: 89465-02140
@@YiannisPagonis thank you
@@kbrichaux You are welcome my friend 🙏🙏
What size the keys you used? Thank you
It is 22 mm socket my friend
@@YiannisPagonis thank you buddy
@@rav6099 You are welcome my friend
My friend, I have one more question. Toyota Corolla 2009, using two o2 sensor after catalytic and before catalytic. Are they the same model?
@@rav6099 Yes I have two oxygen sensors like yours
is this the only O2 sensor in this model? is there any located near the catalytic converter?
Anoop Singh should be one downstream (after the catalytic converters)
this is the upstream o2 sensor (before the catalytic converters)
Mine is so hard to get it off
To loosen it, spray the sensor with a lubricant like WD-40 and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. The WD-40 will lubricate and loosen the sensor, making it easier to remove. You can also heat the sensor threads using a Flame Torch. Unscrew the oxygen sensor using a ratchet wrench. If you don't have one, try using an open end wrench. Fit the wrench over the sensor where it plugs into the exhaust line. Turn it counterclockwise to loosen it, and then finish unscrewing it by hand.
@@YiannisPagonis can I just let the car run?
@@nays8618 Yes it is a good idea. Let the car run for about 20 minutes to warm the exhaust enough, then spray WD-40 on the sensor threads so that this time you can unscrew it. Just be careful not to burn yourself.
@@YiannisPagonis thanks
@@nays8618 You are welcome my friend
What's the exact name for that sensor?
02 sensor or Oxygen sensor. The one in this video is the upstream heated 02.
Good job!
Thank you my friend