That's not a disaster at all lads. The boatyard is the perfect place to discover these things rather than at sea. She'll be running perfectly for your big adventure.
Feel your pain. Just to mention that your videos are great and real. Well done on the symptom following it through to the problem and the necessary fix. Really useful.
wow guys. You may call it a massive disaster but in my eyes I would be on my knees thanking the Lord and Posiden that the whole prop and end shaft did not break off or seize at sea! Phew! Gratitude for you being 'looked after'! 2hrs and 10 mins to get the engine moved out - Kudos!!!!
Just imagine if we would have lost the prop at sea, disaster. At least we noticed it in the right place and got it sorted. 2-hours 10 minutes isn't half bad 😊
Don’t worry lads it’s best you are getting it sorted before you set off . Looks like you have some great help there a the yard . Fingers crossed it all goes well xx
Hi Guys ... lucky you found the prop shaft problem now !!! She will be in good shape when you finish !! On my boat you can take the shaft aft without moving the engine. Good luck and pretty soon you will be sailing again !!! Best regards from Muros !!!
We were very lucky we found the problem at rudders Boatyard. It's unlucky we had to remove the engine to get the propshaft out, but the Skeg was in the way , damn you skegg !! 😁👍👍✌
Best find this problem now boys rather than deep sea! You could probably put the boom to good use with the main sheet to help with the engine as long as you support it! For our work boats we use a company called T Norris ltd for props and anything like cutlass bearings and glands, great service and will send orders out quick! Good luck boys
Keep rolling don't be too rough on old Atlas she will take you on your future endeavors just fine. Keep plugin away at the issues and one by one you guys have this!!
All part of the learning curve. Had some really gut wrenching thing happen on my boat, mainly damage by others and theft. Water under the bridge. Hope the standing rigging is in better condition.
Yes that is correct mark, it is all part of the learning curve. Sounds pretty bad other people damaging your boats and theft. Our standing Riggin is inspected regularly it's in very good condition
Hi guys. I used to own a R34 called Rivalee and I re-engined her myself after hitting an object and bending the prop shaft. I had a local company make a new one ensuring the taper matches the prop taper, this is critical! We installed a flexible drive between the shaft and engine and would recommend you do. The one thing I don’t miss about the R34 is the very tight access through the cockpit lockers (which are very narrow) to access shaft coupling etc. I owned Rivalee for 11 yrs and had a lot of fun with her. Good luck in sorting Atlas.
Thanks for the comments Bob, much appreciated 👍 Access is awful the lockers are very tight, I wish there were more space in them and better Access to the engine
Looks like a beautiful boat yard. I wish my Bukh was as shiny as yours! It’s wonderful how using fixings made of quality materials make later maintenance so much easier. That is a shame about the shaft but you will master it and you will grow in confidence as you acquire new skills. It is possible that the old shaft will still have value in that a different application may call for a shorter shaft. The damaged portion can then be cut off and a new end machined to suit a new owners needs.
Hello Robin, it is a fantastic little Boatyard. Our engine is very shiny as I tend to clean it a lot hahaha. We have definitely learnt a lot after doing most of the work ourselves, it's a good learning curve something we will always remember. Thanks for your comments 😁
Absolutely love where you've hauled out - idyllic spot, so beautiful. You two are amazing, it's like watching two halves of one person in motion - twins! lol
It's the best place to have found the problems. You're still at home! And you can motor on into the future with confidence because you know that it's sorted 👌👍
Adam and Luke, this is certainly the time and place to repair all items! The rudder guedgon most likely uses a shaft long bearing cut down to the proper length! Easy repair boys! Carry on!! ⛵🇺🇸👍
I'd be surprised if that's an overheating problem on the propshaft, guys. The cutlass bearing is normally splined/grooved to allow water onto the shaft for lubrication, so may be some other reason for the damage. Good luck with the repairs.
Thank you Edward, it is very unusual for the shaft to get damaged like that, the chief engineer in the Boatyard had never seen something like this in 40 years!
Blimey lads what a blow!!, at least it happened while the boat was out of the water, and your doint the job right by ordering a new shaft, might as well while you have the engine out, stay safe boys.
I had to replace my cutlass bearing. I placed a couple of wood beams over the cockpit entrance fixed a block and tackle pulley and lifted the engine then just pulled it forward. Do the same when you refit the engine that way you do not need to jack up the rear of the engine to get it on the engine mounts when the rear is on move pulley and lift the front.I managed to do mine on my own.also there should be a drain hole in the bronze shoe where the bottom of the rudder sits make sure that is is clear.
We'll guy's add least you found the problem, your in a good place to get the problem solved ya'll did great to get that far before the big journey begins the propshaft can be solved, you guys can get it done in normal time just watch how things come apart I have faith in you both 👍
Thanks Winston, really glad we found it where we did in the Boatyard, hopefully everything else will be ok, and nothing will break fingers crossed. At least we know how it comes apart and how they put it back together now
Don’t stress Brothers - there are always issues sailing & it’s a good thing the prop issue occurred on the hard at a great Boat Yard where you could resolve the issue safely. Loving your videos - thanks
As many have said lads, better on the hard than at sea. I've been following Peter Lawless' solo circumnavigation: he's had a MAJOR problem that has forced him into a marina for lengthy and probably expensive repairs. I know you're well on your way now lads, looking forward to your FB updates & future videos. Best wishes.
We have also been following Peter Lawless, he is having a dreadful time with steering issues. Hope he gets them sorted soon so he can carry on with his circumnavigation. We will do another Facebook updates very soon
That rudder bottom bearing slop isn't all that bad. There's good remedies for that on the ROA website technical forum. The shaft looks more like crevice corrosion cracking than overheating cracking. It's a pity but removing the engine is the only way to get the shaft out. I'm doing mine this winter (R32).
Yes totally agree Geoff. I had to replace my cutlass bearing and the housing as it was badly dezinctified. The new housing I got from French Marine was much better but it did not have the holes unlike the old one I took off and mine was also blocked up. French Marine told me the holes didn’t help much so I think it is crevice corrosion too not overheating. As for the rudder mine had loads more slop,and I filled the bottom bearing with graphite epoxy and then let the rudder pin make its own shape in the housing. Worked a treat and very cheap fix. I was told not to use nylon as it expands under water. Anyway, you are way past this all now as you are on your way so I’m sure you sorted it out. Andy UK
It was knocking when the wind vane was steering, got really annoying 😒. It wasn't a nylon Bush as luke said, it was something else, can't remember the name of the material, but it's used on ships underwater so must be good. Glad we got a new shaf now, saves worrying about it
Good that you caught it now and get it fixed before the trip. Looks like you chose a good boatyard, I’m sure the guys there will make sure you’re good to go. Greetings from the Great Lakes …… Detroit
I´m not really sure if the shaft is to be renewed. The change of the cutlass bearing is nessesary and the rudder lower bearing also. Keep on going and fair winds! Greetings from Germany.
Fingers crossed that prop has a standard taper through the bore, otherwise the new shaft (from Vetus?) will require re-machining. If that does prove necessary it would have been far cheaper to buy a piece of 316 ground bar of suitable length/diameter & have an engineering shop run it through the lathe. Hopefully it won’t come to that & the new shaft will fit like a glove! Also, agreeing with a previous poster (Geoff Crowley) that old shaft looks far more like crevice corrosion - you would almost certainly have noticed if it had been overheating. Best of luck & I’ll be keeping my fingers crossed for you!!
We have had a local engineering company make an exact replica of the old shaft, we also gave them the prop, so all is great. Maybe it was crevice corrosion, just happy that we noticed it, and it's sorted. Thanks for your comments Row
@@TheSailingBrothers if you head to NZ , I have a mooring you can use next to your sistership and a big welcome for you in the Bay of Islands. Finding your channel has really made my day . My Rival 34 has been around the world twice !! Best Regards to you both Andy
You two are doing a great job I'm a disabled sailor so I can't support on Patreon but full support everywhere else. All the best and before you know it is will be Happy Days!
What a horror, but as others have commented, I am glad this is all happening now when you are on familiar territory. Once done, you will have the comfort of knowing that the two very important parts of the boat that are underwater are newly reviewed and in excellent shape, 1) the shaft, cutlass bearing and prop and 2) the rudder. Looking forward to your progress and your voyage.
You work carefully and methodically, hence why the work has gone well so far. Have some confidence in your abilities lads. Shame about the shaft, bet they're not cheap.
Common problem - as soon as the boat comes out of water, tape the water intake holes up so that nobody fills them up with anti-foul. Particularly at a boatyard, often anti-fouling is given to the apprentice who does a good job, but doesn’t realise what damage he’s doing by filling those slots up. Sometimes very hard to see also.
Thanks Dave, you are so right about that. Even if the Boatyard professionals do work on your boat, it pays to go over there work and check what they have done
Ouff! Not great news but at least you are in the best place to get it sorted out, ie not abroad where you may have a language barrier to deal with on top of everything. If you keep at it with the determination you are showing today all will work out. Keep calm and carry on.
@@TheSailingBrothers Yes certainly was, it was very fortuitous, much better to know now. When you’re on terra firma, than being halfway across the Atlantic Ocean 👍🏻👍🏻
OUCH...my old knees are feeling it for you...i thought repairng atm's in small bunkers with bugger all room was tricky but it looks like you're getting it sorted and as previous posts have mentioned, better for you to have found the issue on land🤞
Got the same problem with my boat but the engine is seized at the moment. So engine out, new prop shaft and either a new engine or the Volvo MD2B fixed!
Well that’s 1 corroded part replaced, just need to check everything else you can’t see. That’s the trouble with 40+ year old boats. Could be worth inspecting the mast chain plates, often find creavise corrosion there 🤔
That's exactly right Greg, you are always going to find issues with a 42 year old boat. We will do a full inspection of the whole boat to make sure everything's good thanks Greg
Depending on the boat it is often possible to use the main sail halyard to lift the engine. It gives you the ability to swing the engine into (and out of) place. I hope this isn't going to cost too much. The hull looks to be in good condition and your engine is so clean. Normally as they are being removed the amount of gunge is terrible.
Thanks for the advice very much appreciated. Luckily our hull is in very good condition and the engine has been well looked after, I do spend time cleaning it as well 😅
Would it be worth having a new two piece prop shaft with a muff coupling between the gearbox and stern fitting? Then if ever you want to change anything it does not involve taking the engine out etc.? I discovered on my Rival 31 that the prop shaft was an inch and a quarter not a standard inch shaft so couldn’t fit a folding prop…… and to change the shaft to have it taken down in size would need the engine out so it’s stayed put with a fixed 3 blade prop! Good luck with it all.
Ooh that was lucky! Had my share of issues with Tig, after a lot of faffing I had to out a while new stern tube, cutlass and PSS gland in. You could have easily have lost your prop there!
I hope you had propspeed applied to the prop once it’s been cleaned up. Something of a bugger on having to take the engine out to replace the prop shaft, alas these things happen and certainly better to have found this now rather than 1/2 way across the Atlantic.
Yes we applied propspeed David all good. At least it was easier to service the engine once it had been removed from the engine bay 😄, best place to find this problem, in the UK
Oh no bro's shafted.. Again you've inspired me, I need to remove my engine, not looking forward to it, however seeing you with that,. mines a tiny 12hp Vire, smaller than that big block of cheese you featured in another video. I'm not bothered now. Thanks. or should I say 'muchas gracias Senors'
Thanks Rob, it's not as bad as you think once you disconnect everything you can pull the lump out, especially if yours is no bigger than a big block of cheese gracias 😊😉
The shaft is connected to a flange which then connects to the gearbox. The shaft is held to the flange with 2 pinch bolts undo the bolts and the shaft will pull out now the rudder is off no need to remove the engine..
Never seen water lubricat a bearing which is always oil and grease, I did engineering for ten years with vehicles, cars trains, planes, never seen a bearing with see water and not oil and grease, but wot do I no 🤔 never done marine stuff, most bearings are protected from a seal oil and grease, would lv to no the difference, I'm not saying I no everything just asking a question 🤔 Lv the vids bros
Yes that's right the cutlass bearing is water cooled. The faster you go the more water passes through the bearing and the cooler it stays 😁. Thanks Jimmy
Hi Guys sorry about your problems but better now than later, but why doesnt the shaft come out backwards the coupling should come off the shaft? wish I was nearer to give you a hand, Mike
@@TheSailingBrothers Ok sorry forgot the skeg was in the way more often than not its the rudder that is in the way, that is the problem with a properly built boat so much safer than a unprotected prop like mine. Mike
@@jamescrego5904 With the shaft disconnect from the coupler and the cutlass bearing slid down the shaft I would have thought there was enough wiggle room to get the shaft past the Skeg.
you could have avoided taking the engine out by disconnecting the shaft from the coupling and sliding it out backwards, you already have the rudder off so it was all clear then get a new one made and repeating the process in reverse.
@@greggbutler9344 Without the cutlass bearing and the packing gland on the inside you have a two inch tube with a one inch shaft so you should have plenty of play to clear the skeg.
You obviously did it all OK! Not an easy job. Quick question - once the rudder was dropped why couldn't you uncouple the shaft at the engine coupling and pull it out the stern? Why did it need to come out forward - was there something about the shaft that needs it to come out forward? Cheers!
@@TheSailingBrothers Yes, that's a pity! Well seems like you got it all done OK. Looks like the wind will shift to northerlies later this week. Take a day in Santiago de la Compostela if you can!
I think that far from the disaster you are saying that the gods were smiling on you. Just think what might have happened if the prop had dropped off and even worse allowed seawater to enter the hull especially if you were in the middle of the Atlantic. It may well take longer than three weeks to fix but having a sound propeller and rudder is far more important and if it takes a month or more I am sure you will find time to fix a whole load of things.
Can't imagine if the prop had fallen off Mid-Atlantic and seawater had entered now the boat we could have sink. It's best we found it here where we can repair it, peace of mind
Just a quick note from a chap who started his apprenticeship in a shipyard 57 years ago. Knocking a prop off with a hammer is a total no go. The rear end of the aluminium gearbox can be cracked by that method. The correct tool is a hydraulic puller, or in your case because of the skeg a strongback puller. I am very surprised at the boatyard taking a hammer to it, very unprofessional in my opinion. They certainly would have not got a second swing at it being my boat, off the job quicker than they got the job.
Oh right thanks for the information John, we were under the impression it was ok too use a hammer and piece of wood to get the prop off but thanks for letting us know this for the future. We did try using a puller, but couldn't get purchase on it as it was used for removing bearings, and the Skeg was in the way
@@TheSailingBrothers Interesting for you also to google a subject called Brinelling, caused when you hit a roller bearing with a hammer, it drives the rollers into the races and leaves little dents rather like a centre punch would. Which of course is exactly what you are doing to the thrust bearing in the gearbox whilst hammering the prop.
That's not a disaster at all lads. The boatyard is the perfect place to discover these things rather than at sea. She'll be running perfectly for your big adventure.
Yep, best place to happen 👌, imagine if it snapped at sea 😳
Never has a video of two men undoing nuts been so riveting.
🤣😅🤣
Feel your pain. Just to mention that your videos are great and real.
Well done on the symptom following it through to the problem and the necessary fix. Really useful.
No problem at all Neil, really glad you are enjoying the videos 😀👍
Fab, you will enjoy this story more for this challenge, thanks once again for sharing.
Thanks very much jester
Finding fault on the hard avoids disaster at sea.. Keep up the good work.
That's exactly right Micky, thanks mate 😁👍
Was great having you boys down the yard you lads are awesome keep up what your doing safe travels George from rudders.
Hello George, great to hear off you mate. Thank you very much indeed, we do miss Rudders, it's a lovely place the staff are amazing 👏😀
Thanks very much mate appreciate that greatly 👍
wow guys. You may call it a massive disaster but in my eyes I would be on my knees thanking the Lord and Posiden that the whole prop and end shaft did not break off or seize at sea! Phew! Gratitude for you being 'looked after'! 2hrs and 10 mins to get the engine moved out - Kudos!!!!
Just imagine if we would have lost the prop at sea, disaster. At least we noticed it in the right place and got it sorted. 2-hours 10 minutes isn't half bad 😊
Don’t worry lads it’s best you are getting it sorted before you set off . Looks like you have some great help there a the yard . Fingers crossed it all goes well xx
Thanks Snowy Owl, the yard is really helpful, all the staff are amazing 👏, least Atlas will be ship shape 😀
Hi Guys ... lucky you found the prop shaft problem now !!! She will be in good shape when you finish !! On my boat you can take the shaft aft without moving the engine. Good luck and pretty soon you will be sailing again !!! Best regards from Muros !!!
We were very lucky we found the problem at rudders Boatyard. It's unlucky we had to remove the engine to get the propshaft out, but the Skeg was in the way , damn you skegg !! 😁👍👍✌
Best find this problem now boys rather than deep sea! You could probably put the boom to good use with the main sheet to help with the engine as long as you support it! For our work boats we use a company called T Norris ltd for props and anything like cutlass bearings and glands, great service and will send orders out quick!
Good luck boys
Thanks Phil, we have been using T Norris as well for all our bits and pieces. They are really good to deal with on the phone and quick delivery
Keep rolling don't be too rough on old Atlas she will take you on your future endeavors just fine. Keep plugin away at the issues and one by one you guys have this!!
Thank you for the lovely comment Thoughtful wander 👍👍
All part of the learning curve. Had some really gut wrenching thing happen on my boat, mainly damage by others and theft. Water under the bridge. Hope the standing rigging is in better condition.
Yes that is correct mark, it is all part of the learning curve. Sounds pretty bad other people damaging your boats and theft. Our standing Riggin is inspected regularly it's in very good condition
Better now than middle of the Atlantic best of luck!
Thanks Levi 👌
Hi guys. I used to own a R34 called Rivalee and I re-engined her myself after hitting an object and bending the prop shaft. I had a local company make a new one ensuring the taper matches the prop taper, this is critical! We installed a flexible drive between the shaft and engine and would recommend you do. The one thing I don’t miss about the R34 is the very tight access through the cockpit lockers (which are very narrow) to access shaft coupling etc. I owned Rivalee for 11 yrs and had a lot of fun with her. Good luck in sorting Atlas.
Thanks for the comments Bob, much appreciated 👍
Access is awful the lockers are very tight, I wish there were more space in them and better Access to the engine
Looks like a beautiful boat yard. I wish my Bukh was as shiny as yours! It’s wonderful how using fixings made of quality materials make later maintenance so much easier. That is a shame about the shaft but you will master it and you will grow in confidence as you acquire new skills. It is possible that the old shaft will still have value in that a different application may call for a shorter shaft. The damaged portion can then be cut off and a new end machined to suit a new owners needs.
Hello Robin, it is a fantastic little Boatyard. Our engine is very shiny as I tend to clean it a lot hahaha. We have definitely learnt a lot after doing most of the work ourselves, it's a good learning curve something we will always remember. Thanks for your comments 😁
It is an item of amazement to me that you have to pull the engine out to replace the shaft.
Unfortunately the Skeg is in the way Paul, so the engine had to come out 🤔😬
Absolutely love where you've hauled out - idyllic spot, so beautiful. You two are amazing, it's like watching two halves of one person in motion - twins! lol
It's a lovely spot, really quite and the staff are amazing. We are very close, we're as children to 😄
Don't lose heart guys, better to discover the problems whilst on the hard than to have the shaft fail whilst at sea. Keep up the great work.
Exactly Colin, it's all a learning experience as well
Bloody hell guys. That was a good find. Getting it sorted now, is better than trying to sort it. In the Canary’s or Caribbean.
That would have been a nightmare
It's the best place to have found the problems. You're still at home! And you can motor on into the future with confidence because you know that it's sorted 👌👍
Exactly Greg, won't be worrying about it as it's done properly 👍
A problem found in the yard is a disaster averted at sea. Chin up, you'll be the better for this experience. Your videos are excellent👌👌. Keep going.👍
Thank you very much Patrick very nice comment 👍
Adam and Luke, this is certainly the time and place to repair all items!
The rudder guedgon most likely uses a shaft long bearing cut down to the proper length! Easy repair boys!
Carry on!!
⛵🇺🇸👍
Thanks James, at least we get everything sorted at the Boatyard, and it's quite cheap rates in Pembrokeshire not like Cardiff
😁👍✌
@@TheSailingBrothers
Again wonderful information!
Steady as she goes!
⛵🇺🇸👍
I'd be surprised if that's an overheating problem on the propshaft, guys. The cutlass bearing is normally splined/grooved to allow water onto the shaft for lubrication, so may be some other reason for the damage. Good luck with the repairs.
Thank you Edward, it is very unusual for the shaft to get damaged like that, the chief engineer in the Boatyard had never seen something like this in 40 years!
Dam . Not what you planned for but you just get on with it . All the best .
That's all we can do Christine is get on with it thanks for your support
Lucky you found in now and didn’t failing out at sea. At least you’ll know it’s all good for the big adventure. Stay safe
Exactly Matthew, thanks for the comment 👍
Boys , save your copper bolts and your old cutlas bronze bearing. They make top notch soft drifts on expensive parts
We have kept all of this Jim, we don't like throwing things away 😬😉
Looks like a nice little yard!
It's a fantastic little Boatyard
Blimey lads what a blow!!, at least it happened while the boat was out of the water, and your doint the job right by ordering a new shaft, might as well while you have the engine out, stay safe boys.
It's unfortunate, but it's happened in the right place and and a new shaft I will seal the deal
I had to replace my cutlass bearing. I placed a couple of wood beams over the cockpit entrance fixed a block and tackle pulley and lifted the engine then just pulled it forward. Do the same when you refit the engine that way you do not need to jack up the rear of the engine to get it on the engine mounts when the rear is on move pulley and lift the front.I managed to do mine on my own.also there should be a drain hole in the bronze shoe where the bottom of the rudder sits make sure that is is clear.
Thanks for all the advice Terry, it must have been difficult for you to do that on your own, you done really well.
We'll guy's add least you found the problem, your in a good place to get the problem solved ya'll did great to get that far before the big journey begins the propshaft can be solved, you guys can get it done in normal time just watch how things come apart I have faith in you both 👍
Thanks Winston, really glad we found it where we did in the Boatyard, hopefully everything else will be ok, and nothing will break fingers crossed. At least we know how it comes apart and how they put it back together now
You’re doing really well! Nothing to be disheartened about. Just plod on. Soon be done.
Thanks very much Mike
Don’t stress Brothers - there are always issues sailing & it’s a good thing the prop issue occurred on the hard at a great Boat Yard where you could resolve the issue safely. Loving your videos - thanks
Thanks Derek, you are always going to find issues with a 42 year-old yacht. Just glad we found them at the Boatyard
Flip boys, great find. Obviously it would have been great not to have the problem, but great place to find em. 👍👍
Exactly Andy quite lucky really 😁
Good luck with it all. I’m sure it can be sorted…
Thanks very much Bowman 26
Good luck with it. You will get it sorted and the pain and stress will disappear as soon as she’s back in the water!
Exactly Mat, she will be 100%
As many have said lads, better on the hard than at sea.
I've been following Peter Lawless' solo circumnavigation: he's had a MAJOR problem that has forced him into a marina for lengthy and probably expensive repairs. I know you're well on your way now lads, looking forward to your FB updates & future videos. Best wishes.
We have also been following Peter Lawless, he is having a dreadful time with steering issues. Hope he gets them sorted soon so he can carry on with his circumnavigation. We will do another Facebook updates very soon
That rudder bottom bearing slop isn't all that bad. There's good remedies for that on the ROA website technical forum. The shaft looks more like crevice corrosion cracking than overheating cracking. It's a pity but removing the engine is the only way to get the shaft out. I'm doing mine this winter (R32).
Yes totally agree Geoff. I had to replace my cutlass bearing and the housing as it was badly dezinctified. The new housing I got from French Marine was much better but it did not have the holes unlike the old one I took off and mine was also blocked up. French Marine told me the holes didn’t help much so I think it is crevice corrosion too not overheating. As for the rudder mine had loads more slop,and I filled the bottom bearing with graphite epoxy and then let the rudder pin make its own shape in the housing. Worked a treat and very cheap fix. I was told not to use nylon as it expands under water. Anyway, you are way past this all now as you are on your way so I’m sure you sorted it out. Andy UK
It was knocking when the wind vane was steering, got really annoying 😒. It wasn't a nylon Bush as luke said, it was something else, can't remember the name of the material, but it's used on ships underwater so must be good. Glad we got a new shaf now, saves worrying about it
Good that you caught it now and get it fixed before the trip. Looks like you chose a good boatyard, I’m sure the guys there will make sure you’re good to go. Greetings from the Great Lakes …… Detroit
Greetings Great Lakes Detroit, it's could not have happened in a better place, the Boatyard is amazing
I´m not really sure if the shaft is to be renewed. The change of the cutlass bearing is nessesary and the rudder lower bearing also. Keep on going and fair winds! Greetings from Germany.
Thanks for your comments and inputs, much appreciated 👍
At least you found the problem now rather than later, I bet you could have screamed because everything was going so well.
It was a total shock Johnny, but at least we are getting it sorted
Fingers crossed that prop has a standard taper through the bore, otherwise the new shaft (from Vetus?) will require re-machining. If that does prove necessary it would have been far cheaper to buy a piece of 316 ground bar of suitable length/diameter & have an engineering shop run it through the lathe.
Hopefully it won’t come to that & the new shaft will fit like a glove! Also, agreeing with a previous poster (Geoff Crowley) that old shaft looks far more like crevice corrosion - you would almost certainly have noticed if it had been overheating.
Best of luck & I’ll be keeping my fingers crossed for you!!
We have had a local engineering company make an exact replica of the old shaft, we also gave them the prop, so all is great. Maybe it was crevice corrosion, just happy that we noticed it, and it's sorted. Thanks for your comments Row
I have a Rival 34 in New Zealand . Great to see this
Brilliant, they are fantastic boats
@@TheSailingBrothers if you head to NZ , I have a mooring you can use next to your sistership and a big welcome for you in the Bay of Islands. Finding your channel has really made my day . My Rival 34 has been around the world twice !!
Best Regards to you both
Andy
You two are doing a great job I'm a disabled sailor so I can't support on Patreon but full support everywhere else. All the best and before you know it is will be Happy Days!
Thank you for your comments Chris, your support to UA-cam is very much appreciated 🙏
What a horror, but as others have commented, I am glad this is all happening now when you are on familiar territory. Once done, you will have the comfort of knowing that the two very important parts of the boat that are underwater are newly reviewed and in excellent shape, 1) the shaft, cutlass bearing and prop and 2) the rudder. Looking forward to your progress and your voyage.
Yes thank you Ron, least we can know the important things have been fixed and we won't have to worry about it 😄👍
You work carefully and methodically, hence why the work has gone well so far. Have some confidence in your abilities lads. Shame about the shaft, bet they're not cheap.
Thank you for the lovely comment JFB, at least we will not have to worry about the shaft anymore
We had the same problem last summer with our 46' ketch....two months on the hard. ugh.
2 months is a long time to be stuck in the yard. Hope it is all successfully sorted William 👌
At least you know its all good to go now lads
Exactly John 💯
Imagine it 12 days from anywhere lads!, this is all good stuff 👌 now I'm going to have to check my cutlass bearing 😂 fair winds.
Can't imagine that Matt, yes best check your cutlass bearing 🙂
Common problem - as soon as the boat comes out of water, tape the water intake holes up so that nobody fills them up with anti-foul. Particularly at a boatyard, often anti-fouling is given to the apprentice who does a good job, but doesn’t realise what damage he’s doing by filling those slots up. Sometimes very hard to see also.
Thanks Dave, you are so right about that. Even if the Boatyard professionals do work on your boat, it pays to go over there work and check what they have done
And a new water pump, by the looks of that one,
We reconditioned the pump, looks and works a treat now 😉
It's great to see team work. You'll go further than the Canaries vid on you lads!!
VIVA LAS PALMAS
👍
And we didn't argue that much 😁
Ouff! Not great news but at least you are in the best place to get it sorted out, ie not abroad where you may have a language barrier to deal with on top of everything. If you keep at it with the determination you are showing today all will work out. Keep calm and carry on.
Thank you Gavin, imagine having problems like this abroad as you said the language barrier and everything would be a complete nightmare
Well done gentlemen,hard and stressful work, but worth it when finished 👍🏻👍🏻
Was very stressful, but glad it happened there 🤔😙
@@TheSailingBrothers Yes certainly was, it was very fortuitous, much better to know now. When you’re on terra firma, than being halfway across the Atlantic Ocean 👍🏻👍🏻
Better safe than sorry lads. Its hard work but worth it.
Dam right Robert ✅👌
getting the boat ready is priority number 1, filming comes second at best. hope you can source a new shaft quickly
We try to film as much as we can but sometimes you have to get on with it 👍
OUCH...my old knees are feeling it for you...i thought repairng atm's in small bunkers with bugger all room was tricky but it looks like you're getting it sorted and as previous posts have mentioned, better for you to have found the issue on land🤞
There is not much room around the engine Brody, access is very limited, which is really annoying but there we go. Thanks Brodie
Got the same problem with my boat but the engine is seized at the moment. So engine out, new prop shaft and either a new engine or the Volvo MD2B fixed!
Hope you get it sorted Stephen 👍
@@TheSailingBrothers Cheers, I have plenty of time.
Well that’s 1 corroded part replaced, just need to check everything else you can’t see. That’s the trouble with 40+ year old boats.
Could be worth inspecting the mast chain plates, often find creavise corrosion there 🤔
That's exactly right Greg, you are always going to find issues with a 42 year old boat. We will do a full inspection of the whole boat to make sure everything's good thanks Greg
Depending on the boat it is often possible to use the main sail halyard to lift the engine. It gives you the ability to swing the engine into (and out of) place. I hope this isn't going to cost too much.
The hull looks to be in good condition and your engine is so clean. Normally as they are being removed the amount of gunge is terrible.
Thanks for the advice very much appreciated. Luckily our hull is in very good condition and the engine has been well looked after, I do spend time cleaning it as well 😅
@@TheSailingBrothers I did note how clean the engine is. I've seen engines dirtier than that even before they are fitted!
better now than on a lee shore
keep positive 👍
Thanks Ian
with this work behind you, I think you will sleep better on your trip knowing that rudder and shaft are A-1
Damn right Bruce 👌
Would it be worth having a new two piece prop shaft with a muff coupling between the gearbox and stern fitting? Then if ever you want to change anything it does not involve taking the engine out etc.? I discovered on my Rival 31 that the prop shaft was an inch and a quarter not a standard inch shaft so couldn’t fit a folding prop…… and to change the shaft to have it taken down in size would need the engine out so it’s stayed put with a fixed 3 blade prop! Good luck with it all.
Never really thought about that Paul. We would like a folding prop that would be lovely. It certainly always something with owning boats 🙃🙃
nice one
Cheers ✌
Ooh that was lucky! Had my share of issues with Tig, after a lot of faffing I had to out a while new stern tube, cutlass and PSS gland in.
You could have easily have lost your prop there!
Sounds like boats to me 🤣🤣, sometimes they can drive you mad 😠
Imagine if the prop fell off 🥺😫😩
@@TheSailingBrothers scary to think it could have broken at the worst possible time and done damage! Could have lost the boat!
I hope you had propspeed applied to
the prop once it’s been cleaned up. Something of a bugger on having to take the engine out to replace the prop shaft, alas these things happen and certainly better to have found this now rather than 1/2 way across the Atlantic.
Yes we applied propspeed David all good. At least it was easier to service the engine once it had been removed from the engine bay 😄, best place to find this problem, in the UK
Oh no bro's shafted.. Again you've inspired me, I need to remove my engine, not looking forward to it, however seeing you with that,. mines a tiny 12hp Vire, smaller than that big block of cheese you featured in another video. I'm not bothered now. Thanks. or should I say 'muchas gracias Senors'
Thanks Rob, it's not as bad as you think once you disconnect everything you can pull the lump out, especially if yours is no bigger than a big block of cheese gracias 😊😉
The shaft is connected to a flange which then connects to the gearbox. The shaft is held to the flange with 2 pinch bolts undo the bolts and the shaft will pull out now the rudder is off no need to remove the engine..
The skeg is in the way
@@varnisher100 Oh yes what a bollocks
Thanks, but unfortunately the skeg is in the way 😕
Never seen water lubricat a bearing which is always oil and grease, I did engineering for ten years with vehicles, cars trains, planes, never seen a bearing with see water and not oil and grease, but wot do I no 🤔 never done marine stuff, most bearings are protected from a seal oil and grease, would lv to no the difference, I'm not saying I no everything just asking a question 🤔
Lv the vids bros
Yes that's right the cutlass bearing is water cooled. The faster you go the more water passes through the bearing and the cooler it stays 😁. Thanks Jimmy
Hi Guys sorry about your problems but better now than later, but why doesnt the shaft come out backwards the coupling should come off the shaft? wish I was nearer to give you a hand, Mike
Best place to have the problems in a amazing yard. Unfortunately the shaft will not come out of the back as the Skeg is in the way nevermind 😕
@@TheSailingBrothers Ok sorry forgot the skeg was in the way more often than not its the rudder that is in the way, that is the problem with a properly built boat so much safer than a unprotected prop like mine. Mike
why not pull/take the propshaft out backwards???
Unfortunately the skeg is in the way
Adam using that spanner looks like he's using chop-sticks.
Thanks Jo 🤣
Don’t use nylon for making the bush for your rudder lads. Nylon swells up with moisture and it will bind so tight you won’t be able to use your rudder
It's wasn't nylon as Luke said Alan, it was a special material recommended at the engineering place used in shipping
Press on boys it wont be long before your smiling again
Thanks Rob
just get a big bar and some rope round engine the 2 of u should be able to pick it up and move it
Thanks Paul 👌
Why do you have to take out the engine , don’t you have a coupler between the engine and the shaft
With the skeg it's not possible unfortunately.
Unfortunately the Skeg was in the way
Why not pull the shaft out of the back instead of removing the engine? I did it last year, no problem…
Very good question!?
Can't you disconnect the shaft from the coupler at the transmission!!
The skeg is in the way on a Rival 34, if you want it out in one piece then engine has to come out unfortunately
@@Vidiotization
Thank you Sion Williams for your understandable explanation!
@@jamescrego5904 With the shaft disconnect from the coupler and the cutlass bearing slid down the shaft I would have thought there was enough wiggle room to get the shaft past the Skeg.
We did try but unfortunately the Skeg is in the way
Better a new prop-shaft now than loosing your prop the other side of the ocean. It didn't look like you had much time on that old shaft.
We were lucky we found it Mike, imagine losing your prop in a different country that would be expensive
What engine does Atlas have ?
That's a Bukh.
Looks in really good condition ☺️
you could have avoided taking the engine out by disconnecting the shaft from the coupling and sliding it out backwards, you already have the rudder off so it was all clear then get a new one made and repeating the process in reverse.
What about the Skeg ?
@@greggbutler9344 Without the cutlass bearing and the packing gland on the inside you have a two inch tube with a one inch shaft so you should have plenty of play to clear the skeg.
We did try to remove the propshaft out of the back of the boat but the Skeg was really in the way unfortunately 😕
@@andyherbert1267 1.5” tube
Gutting, let's hope it's just plain sailing from now on 🤞
Exactly Mark, cheers
You obviously did it all OK! Not an easy job. Quick question - once the rudder was dropped why couldn't you uncouple the shaft at the engine coupling and pull it out the stern? Why did it need to come out forward - was there something about the shaft that needs it to come out forward? Cheers!
The skeg would still prevent rear removal
@@uglybird650 Oh yes, of course. Forgot that! Thanks. Some boats have an offset shaft which makes removal easy. Oh well!
Unfortunately the Skeg was in the way Simon so the shaft had to come out through the boat made the job much more difficult
@@TheSailingBrothers Yes, that's a pity! Well seems like you got it all done OK. Looks like the wind will shift to northerlies later this week. Take a day in Santiago de la Compostela if you can!
I think that far from the disaster you are saying that the gods were smiling on you.
Just think what might have happened if the prop had dropped off and even worse allowed seawater to enter the hull especially if you were in the middle of the Atlantic.
It may well take longer than three weeks to fix but having a sound propeller and rudder is far more important and if it takes a month or more I am sure you will find time to fix a whole load of things.
Can't imagine if the prop had fallen off Mid-Atlantic and seawater had entered now the boat we could have sink. It's best we found it here where we can repair it, peace of mind
Sorry but DELICIOUS!!!
Research. Man made it man can fix it. Dont rush. Its not magic. You will do fine.
Thanks Darren, your right 👍
😷🤦👍
Perfect ✌👍
Just a quick note from a chap who started his apprenticeship in a shipyard 57 years ago. Knocking a prop off with a hammer is a total no go. The rear end of the aluminium gearbox can be cracked by that method. The correct tool is a hydraulic puller, or in your case because of the skeg a strongback puller. I am very surprised at the boatyard taking a hammer to it, very unprofessional in my opinion. They certainly would have not got a second swing at it being my boat, off the job quicker than they got the job.
Your telling me that after 57 years in a ship yard you’ve never hit something with a hammer 😂😂😂😂😂
@@greggbutler9344 Yeah, I have hit things with big hammers, but only where it is appropriate. Props on small engines are inappropriate.
Oh right thanks for the information John, we were under the impression it was ok too use a hammer and piece of wood to get the prop off but thanks for letting us know this for the future. We did try using a puller, but couldn't get purchase on it as it was used for removing bearings, and the Skeg was in the way
@@TheSailingBrothers Interesting for you also to google a subject called Brinelling, caused when you hit a roller bearing with a hammer, it drives the rollers into the races and leaves little dents rather like a centre punch would. Which of course is exactly what you are doing to the thrust bearing in the gearbox whilst hammering the prop.
You're gonna need a bigger boat!
Well, maybe one day
I can't afford a boat as nice as yours but looking at 26/27 footers. How difficult has it been for you having a boat with a single long keel please?
Shit can that two blade prop and put a three blade
😮😮🧐🧐🤯🤯👩🔧💸🆕👌👍👏👏🎉