HOW TO INSTALL WOOD FRAMING | CAMPER VAN | VAN BUILD
Вставка
- Опубліковано 18 жов 2022
- How to install wood framing in your camper van.
Check out my Amazon Store where I have organized all the products I use on my van builds and recommend! www.amazon.com/shop/alluviuminc
I will be updating and adding more products Often.
Link to my older video maximizing the width- • Van Conversion Part 2 ...
Angled Drill Bit- amzn.to/2F51DuO
MARINE SEALANT- amzn.to/3TaQ0Dj
IG @ buildingvanlife
Hello everyone, check out the video I posted right after this one, because I had to make an alteration to the framing on the passenger side. I show it in the next video.
Bro I absolutely appreciate your videos and you taking the time out of your day to reply, you deserve WAY more subscribers.
When the spray foam goes in the rigidity/racking strength will increase by 300%! Awesome!
This is the series I’ve been searching for! Your vid’s are clear and concise.
Thank you mucho
👍🏻👍🏻✌🏻
Loving this video, I’m at the exact same spot on my promaster, just started framing!!
Just what I needed to see, thank you brother!
i was in medellin right around the same time as you. such an amazing country
Great detail and instructions. Thank you!
Great work. I smashed the bits that stick out on my posts with a hammer. Gave me the inch back. Throughout the van it’s a lot of space considering the size 😂👍
Love it!! 😂😂😂😂
Anyone would think you’ve done this before! 😂
It’s great to see how your builds evolve with the experience you gain 👍🏻
Thank you
Your channel is a lifesaver!
Thank you!
Nice Video... Great Tips!!!
Another good video. The first thing, and so far the only thing, I have done on my Promaster build is to pound down that bump out on the driver's side cargo area with a 4 lb sledge. Maybe reduced it 3/8".
Hi. Glad I came across your channel and currently looking for a van for a conversion. Thank you for the detailed steps!
Thanks for watching!
Love Medellin. Got both my tattoos on my forearm down at Studio 13! Need to go back and get more sometime soon
Yeh I’d like to go back too. Great city!
Nice, thank you. I enjoyed the mariachi background music at the begining. My Dodge Caravan is black, so I think that the wood frame would be enough, no wall, just cupboards. I could have curtains and posters stuck with magnets on the metal.
One of the main reasons for the framing is so you can add insulation, which you will see on the video after this on my channel. Especially with a black van you are really going to want to add insulation.
Such a handsome man and handy!
also sick vid
Thank you
Nice work,,, do you have idea how much cost just for frame?
There will be condense on the wood. So putt 2 layers of coating on it and underneayh armaflex isolation
I love how it looks so easy when you do that...
btw, have you considered aluminum? 8020? i'm sure you have seen these videos. would love to hear your opinion on aluminum vs wood structure.
I've considered it but I still prefer not to use it. It's good too and it has it benefits. The wood is so much easier to work with. You can also make it curve to the contour of the walls which you cant do with the 80/20. Also you might want to check out my next video i just posted because i made a slight change to the framing on the passenger side.
Hey how far up and how far down those shorts wood strips by back window? Thanks so much. Love your style!
Sorry I don’t have that measurement
great video. just wondering what type of van is this one? and are most of the van, high roof, has the same on the back with 1"3/4 to make up for the top ? thanks in advance.
it's the 22' promaster 159 wb high roof
A video of yours from a couple years ago had you adjusting for the different depth of the roof cross beams. Did you have the same problem with your 2023 Promaster?
This one lined up nicely except for the very front beam
We've been doing a "no rush" build, doing what we need as we need to. We have a 1x4 currently mounted supporting our floating bed frame. I want to take a weekend and frame out the rest of it just so it's in place when we get to paneling. Do you think it's worth replacing the 1x4 (.75" x 3.5") with a "true" 1x4?
It'd be kind of annoying to undo what we've done, but I see clearance was a factor in your decision to use it this time. Wondering if that stemmed from a regret with the previous build.
I will say two things, you can probably keep what you have and there will only be those two small spots that will bump out and you can cover those with cabinets/etc. later, and two; I think it's important to do things in a specific order, putting the bed in first is going to make things harder for your to work around it. If you are living in the van while building it, I get it. Otherwise I would try to do things in the correct order. This is probably the biggest mistake I see in other builds. I'll try to talk about that in one of the new few videos.
@@BuildingVanLife Thanks so much for the response. We actually have the bed mounted using IKEA metal supports, which are fully removable. The sides of the bed are attached with “bed frame hardware” typically used to disassemble a bed for moving. We can remove the entire thing in about 10 minutes. We will definitely do that when we frame out the walls properly.
I'm trying to build a camper without framework to save on weight and so I can pull my cabinets and bed out if I need to. It's been a challenge since this is my first build but I'm getting there. I'm bolting everything to my floor and sticking one piece of wood to the van in existing holes to fit a roof cabinet
Do you have any pics? I'm considering extruded aluminum for a frame. I have a fiberglass roof and not much in terms of metal studs on the walls.
What did you do for the slants between the wall and the ceiling?
I just posted a new video showing how I finish that after the cabinets are up. During the framing process leave it as is. Here is the video
ua-cam.com/video/cXnD_qsBgjo/v-deo.html
So no pocket screws on this build? Your builds evolve each time. Nice to see. Thanks
Not on the framing. I was able to make things a lot easier on this one. For sure I’ll be using the pocket screws on some other things. Definitely refining things each time. Thanks for watching
I don't think evolving means not using pocket screws.
@@charlevoix418 The pocket screws were a question. Evolving meaning different methods since his first build.
Man i am sooo intimated by all this... been watching van builds since 2016 finally got mt van and i feel so lost, my vam came with a subfloor and boy it was a nightmare to remove im using half inch birch ply wood for my wubfloor.....i am using tye subfloor that came with the van as a template but its not flush to the walls all the way around...does it matter? Cause all of yours are flush, btw the videos i was just watching someone commented about rust when screwing you said the croas nuts or plus nuts was stupid cause its gonna cause rust too and i agree but seems some peope are super fixused on rust... qnyways hope you rely appreciate your videos... ive been trying to find how to make a bed and found your channel.🎉
It depends. It doesnt need to go all the way to the wall because once you frame the walls, the walls will come out furthur, plus at the end of the build when you put in your finished floor, that is when you can make it look perfect and make it flush. As far as people talking about plus nuts... this is the internet, everyone is an expert and wants to argue. Follow the videos on the channel and your van will come out nice and you wont have a problem, don't worry about the "internet experts"
In your previous video on framing a Promaster, you talked about one of the ceiling struts coming down lower than the others and having to work around that. It looks like you used the same thickness of furring strips for all the ceiling struts in this van. Is that so?
I don’t know if it was just the van I had last time but when I ran my level across they didn’t line up. This one everything lined up. So I don’t know, check your van as you go and see if you need to adjust any of the furring strips
@@BuildingVanLife My new 23, 159" highroof has one cross bracket, about the middle of the cargo area, that is lower than the others.
There is a little antena(it said LF antena) on the second last ceilng beam. Do you know what this antena for? Did you just remove it or hide it somewhere?
Yes I removed it and tucked it in that wall cavity where the wall meets the ceiling
I know you used a true 1" thick board for the lower horizontal piece, but is the upper horizontal piece also 1" thick, or just a regular 1x3 or 1x4?
The upper one is a regular 1x3
@@BuildingVanLife Thanks for answering all my questions!
I’m just trying to figure out what the screw is connecting to on the other side for it to stay in place i just got a cargo van and I’m trying to do a rack system.. i figured i can just use them holes that’s in the interior to connect the rack honestly
did u figure it out?
Would there be any advantage to using bigger screws for the wood to metal attachment? I ask because I already have size 10 screws on hand, instead of the size 6 you used.
I found the #6 were doing a better job than the thicker ones I used. Felt like they really sucked the wood in tight. Try the 10 if the wood is wiggling at all then use the 6.
@@BuildingVanLife thank you very much for your insight!
Is it an option removing the two bumps sticking out in the side beam? I know the beam is probably structural, but would it really hurt cutting out just the biggest piece sticking out?
They are structural for the van I believe. It wouldn’t be a good idea.
Curious how you gauge if the ceiling is level, when the whole van is not level? Or do you level up the van beforehand? Or do you mean "flush" and not "level"? I think that is where my confusion arises.
Flush not level. Nothing can be level in a van. For certain things I measure up from the floor to make sure.
Hey bro, I was just having a hard day, I'm at mendards atm, soooo Because I still don't know the layout of my Van. Can I still follow you're framing video to all the way even thoifht i dont know my layout yet? ? Also, you have a few other framing videos what one do you recommend that i follow? Also I have an extended cab.... appreciate you hope I hear back thanks.
Yes I think so. The only kind of customization I have is the cut out for the bed. You can keep that or just frame it all flat. Also watch the next video after this bc there was one minor alteration I needed to make in the next video. I pinned that video in the comments
@BuildingVanLife massively appreciate you, okay ill go watch the other video, I'm looking at these 2x2 actual size 1/2 furring strips they are spruce pine & fir they don't have a lot of options do you think these would be good as far as tickness goes and width goes? ? The only other option is 3/4 x 2-1/2 these are also pine.
@@Van-life-4-Jesusfor the framing of the walls and ceiling I used 1x3 pine which are actual 3/4 by 2 1/2
I am in bogota Columbia I live here half the year
nice! i've been there a few times
I am currwntly screwing my frames into the van frames. I decided to not use rivnuts. My van was a converted camper before and i have pulled the old fit out out to build anew. I did not find any rust in the frames where screws had been used to attach plywood frames 10 years ago. So i decided to use the same method.
Thank you. This is exactly what I’ve been saying. Some of these “internet experts” make me laugh how they know everything
Do you have any pictures you can share? I'm renovating an Old Road track which has a fiberglass roof and of metal screw in to.
Is there no concern for metal shavings causing rust over time when drilling directly into the metal?
not really, there will be a moisture barrier with the spray foam insulation. Plus, what's the alternative? Drilling larger holes for plus nuts? This framing will last longer than this van runs.
@@BuildingVanLife No drilling. I am planning on using smaller plus nuts to fit the holes. Just wondering. Everyone does it differently and I’ve read a lot about rust. You do a great job on your builds! I’ve learned a lot.
@@Laura1221 the way these self drilling screws go in i really don't think they create any significant metal shavings, they go in so easy. I think you may have a hard time with the plus nuts. I see everyone using them just because they see everyone else using them. IMO they don't have any benefit and only have the disadvantage of being much slower and harder to work with. I'm curious to see how you like using them though, let me know how it goes.
Looked up that sku and not available in my area Home Depot(s) in MN.
Confirmed sku is available in your area at Costa Mesa.
See if you can find a lumber yard in your area
@@BuildingVanLife yes, that what i did. Thanks and appreciate you sharing the sku’s. Great vids too!
Why use a sealant over glue? They're 2 totally different materials & applications. Thanks.
Is there any reason not to remove the bump out? (Driver side).
I believe it’s structural to the van
@@BuildingVanLife thanks for the quick reply, we are starting a build and love you video.
Did you level the van first?
No you don't need to and it's probably impossible. You simply can take measurements off the floor if you need to find out if something is level. Nothing in the framing needs to be perfectly level though. It's more about checking with a level or straight edge that the framing is flush with the other pieces of wood.
I just got done reading the entire comment section. Man, people ask some stupid questions but then again, maybe my question stupid I don't know😅
I use rivet nuts, not screws
Wouldn't the screws poke up out the top of the van?
No. Obviously I use screws with a length that won’t go through
Not sure of the price of the “marine sealant” he uses as his adhesive, but I used a lot of F26 adhesive (Ace Hardware) when I built my staircase in my house, and it’s works extremely well and is relatively inexpensive. Haven’t tried it on metal yet but expect it will or well.
what wood skrews you use?
they are self tapping screws from home depot designed to go from wood to metal
@@BuildingVanLife I got the number 6 and the number eight self-drilling screws. I was just kind of curious what you would use for wood screws to go from wood to wood
@@americanpettransport I think both are fine just pre drill with the counter sink first
perfect now my van will have 100 places to rust
🤔
Lol This perception about rust is truly insane in the main community A Beta pickup truck on the West Coast with scratches and paint removed all over. It won't rust for almost twenty years
Where can people work on their vans without being a disturbance?
Not sure. I just do it behind my apartment
Anywhere lol
Hey i'm kinda confused why people use fern strips to frame the van...... Why not just use the existing beams to create your wall? This would maximize space. I haven't seen anyone. Do it and i'm not sure why.... Is there a reason why we frame the Van? When we already have existing beams, we can use use???🤔🤔🤔🤔
A few reasons. The metal beams are irregular so you wouldn’t be able to have uninterrupted walls. There is too large of gaps between the metal beams, framing for wood can’t have more than 16” between where it’s screwed in. It’s hard to screw into the metal beams and when you are using a delicate finished wall covering and the main cross beams are solid steel and impossible to screw into. It helps with creating a place for the insulation to go
Oh and it also creates a thermal break so you don’t get condensation which will lead to mold
I couldn’t see what you meant about making notches…
Happy to help but try to be much more specific with your question
Great video, I would take the music out honestly. A bit hard to hear you at times
Why are you stacking wood on top of wood when you're literally costing yourself inches on the width of your van
Space for insulation and wiring
Working in sandals flip flops is pathetic
Honestly, why do you care what he does? Why are you just accommodating to criticize his video or how he dresses?
gluing wood directly on the paint? how long do you think that's going to last?
It will last forever once the shelf is screwed into the walls above the rear doors holding it up and it’s not glue it’s marine sealant