All great advice, another little trick I’ve used is save all your little scraps of birch and when you want to screw through a spot that your worried about a sharp screw sticking out just put your little scrap piece behind…..in places you can reach easily Great vid , Thanks
Great video. For those hex-head screws, don’t use a “larger regular drill bit” to drill the ‘countersink’ for the screw heads which will remove more material than necessary. Use a Forstner bit which cuts a flat-bottomed hole. You want the depth to be slightly less (1/32 to 1/16) than the depth of the screw head so the head “pulls down” flush. Don’t overtighten - you don’t want to crush the plywood.
@@OurThrivingLife Not trying to nitpick. You do a great job of explaining why you do what you do, and you’re humble about it. And you do really nice work - I’m a fan.
This was the absolute best video on how to frame your van. I’ve been searching and searching for this for a long time. This hit every nail on the head for me. Now I have a proper game plan on how to do my soon-to-be van
I watched two other framing videos, but when I went out to my van to implement what I was shown--nothing worked. THIS system, I'm pretty sure, WILL work. Also, I was also worried about the sharp screws poking through my wires. Good advice re: rivnuts v screws.
Good call, sir. I was fortunate enough to have watched another UA-camr who addressed this particular issue before my build. This is an under explored subject as noise population is a problem that requires attention. Subscribed, thanks.
Great vid. I just bought a new Transit Trail and thinking about the build. The framing is not particularly sexy, but absolutely necessary as a foundation for everything else. This guy has already done it a few times. So many factors to consider. Sigh.
Thanks again for this explanation! I saw your last furring strip video and loved it. Can I clarify; I don’t HAVE to use framing/furring strips? What are the advantages and disadvantages. I’m still confused on if I should use them or not. Thank you!
If you’re doing panel walls, you don’t need furring strips. If you are using Shiplap, tongue and groove, or other type of boards…the furring strips provide attachment points wherever you need them. Furring strips also allow you to smooth out the different angles of the Van walls and ceiling.
I think that this will be considered nitpicking, however you started out saying that you run the top horizontal furring strip so that it is lined up with the top edge of the cutout and a ridge in the sheet metal. Then when you were discussing the upper cabinets you said you installed this furring strip based on where you want the bottom of the upper cabinets to be? If the 1st thing is true, then I think what you mean is that you build the upper cabinets to a size that will then allow them to rest on the top of the furring strip? Your professionalism is amazing!
Great video Jeff. Thanks for taking the time to share your tips. You mention that you use stainless steel 1/4-20 rivnuts and stainless hardware. Can you tell me what tool you use to install the rivnuts? I’ve been struggling to find a reliable, repeatable tool to easily install these. Thanks again.
@@OurThrivingLife thank you so much for responding. I’ve got the plus nuts. Love how simple and in depth your explanations are👍🏽 keep those vids coming😀 im a first time van builder and I’m working on my 2000 250 econoline and in many ways a van is a van is a van. It all applies 👍🏽
@@OurThrivingLifeWhy do you use both riv nuts and zip screws? Are there different purposes? I chose riv nuts but feel like the only advantage is being able to treat the holes so they don’t rust. The glue makes things non removable anyway. Where riv nuts would be great is for the cover panels but i guess can really use them in the wood framing. So yeah…why zip AND riv nuts?
Thanks for all your advice so far. Much appreciated. So, why no framing with the 1/4 inch baltic plywood? P.S. Just finished install of MaxAir Fan and Dometic RTX 2000 in a Transit, mostly helped by your videos. Thanks, again. Then a huge storm here in New England a week later . . . no leaks, not even a drop. 😀
The older I get (77), the harder it is for me to hear clearly. I have to use cc for all TV shows, but I really didn't have a problem with this video. The cc helped for the brief areas I missed out on.
Thanks for the video! Any concern with the tech screws and the metal eventually rusting? I see people often add some primer when drilling out holes for their plus / riv nuts
I add primer when using riv nuts. When I use tech screws, I put a dab of the adhesive where the screw goes in. The adhesive goes in the hole with the screw and provides a nice seal.
Thank you so much for this video, I wasn't sure how I was going to deal with the curved walls of my 2013 sprinter, and now you've made everything quite clear. I've got one question for you. The seller included an RV door for me to install, given that this model doesn't have a sliding door. I assume that could be a very difficult task. Do you have any recommendations for me?
Great video, thanks for the detail! Question…on your vertical framing pieces, do you just have empty space between the vertical piece and the van metal? (as the wood is straight and van is curved) I’m framing out a Sprinter now and wondering how you handled that. Thanks!
You mentionned that you prefer 5/8" birch plywood for furing strips, which end up being 9/16", for better screw grip, but for the benefit of your viewers and DIYfers, I am wondering when you screw in your cabinet and bed attachment for instance, do you use 1/2" or 5/8" wood screws which in fact only leaves a 3/8" or 1/2" grip because the needle point of the screw has no grip, or you use 3/4" or 1" screws that goes through the metal holes of the van structure that leaves a true 5/8" grip in the wood? In other words, arre 1/2" or 5/8" wood screws strong enough to hold everything or longer screws better?
We attach all of the cabinetry and bed rails to the metal interior of the van. The furring strips are only there for the ceiling and wall boards. We use 1-1/4" screws for the ceiling. We place the screws where the furring strips overhang the metal, so the screws go through the furring strip without hitting any metal. We use 1" pin nails along with marine adhesive for the wall boards.
Thanks for the precision because your demonstration led me (and others?) to believe that you anchored the cabinets and the bed rails to the furing strips and I didn't find it very sturdy unless the screws were going through all the thickness of the wood. I agree with you that screwing on the metal studs is much stronger to ressit vibration and unfortunately if it happens a car crash.@@OurThrivingLife
Hey so I watched the previous video and I had a question. On the roof framing where you cut two small sections (one on either side) why do you not just run a single length piece across the roof instead ? Especially since you have riv nuts, self tapping and the adhesive ?
There are good van build videos, a lot by amateurs, but yours is a well-done teaching, technical guide! Thanks much!
All great advice, another little trick I’ve used is save all your little scraps of birch and when you want to screw through a spot that your worried about a sharp screw sticking out just put your little scrap piece behind…..in places you can reach easily Great vid , Thanks
Fantastic video! I picked up a lot of techniques that I haven't seen in other framing videos
Glad it was helpful!
couldnt say enough about your videos, very concise, straightforward and logical. thanks for helping me build my van !
Glad to help
Great video. For those hex-head screws, don’t use a “larger regular drill bit” to drill the ‘countersink’ for the screw heads which will remove more material than necessary. Use a Forstner bit which cuts a flat-bottomed hole. You want the depth to be slightly less (1/32 to 1/16) than the depth of the screw head so the head “pulls down” flush. Don’t overtighten - you don’t want to crush the plywood.
Good points.
@@OurThrivingLife Not trying to nitpick. You do a great job of explaining why you do what you do, and you’re humble about it. And you do really nice work - I’m a fan.
This was the absolute best video on how to frame your van. I’ve been searching and searching for this for a long time. This hit every nail on the head for me. Now I have a proper game plan on how to do my soon-to-be van
Glad it was helpful!
I watched two other framing videos, but when I went out to my van to implement what I was shown--nothing worked. THIS system, I'm pretty sure, WILL work. Also, I was also worried about the sharp screws poking through my wires. Good advice re: rivnuts v screws.
This is my second video on this channel. It's helpful to see all the little details of what it takes to create a decent living space. Cheers!
I like your thinking pattern. Simple but effective.
Good call, sir. I was fortunate enough to have watched another UA-camr who addressed this particular issue before my build. This is an under explored subject as noise population is a problem that requires attention. Subscribed, thanks.
Thanks so much! Excellent videos! (Even with the background noise ) detailed and helpful thanks!
awesomely illustrated! subbed for more quality vanlife building tips, thank you!
Thanks for the sub!
FANTASTIC video! Subscribed.
Great vid. I just bought a new Transit Trail and thinking about the build. The framing is not particularly sexy, but absolutely necessary as a foundation for everything else. This guy has already done it a few times. So many factors to consider. Sigh.
Good luck with your conversion!
love your videos! so helpful, thank you
Thank you!
Thanks again for this explanation! I saw your last furring strip video and loved it. Can I clarify; I don’t HAVE to use framing/furring strips? What are the advantages and disadvantages. I’m still confused on if I should use them or not. Thank you!
If you’re doing panel walls, you don’t need furring strips. If you are using Shiplap, tongue and groove, or other type of boards…the furring strips provide attachment points wherever you need them. Furring strips also allow you to smooth out the different angles of the Van walls and ceiling.
@@OurThrivingLife thank you so much for your prompt reply! I just bought some supplies from afíliate links on your website. Thank you!
Lots of great insights on how to do it right!
I think that this will be considered nitpicking, however you started out saying that you run the top horizontal furring strip so that it is lined up with the top edge of the cutout and a ridge in the sheet metal. Then when you were discussing the upper cabinets you said you installed this furring strip based on where you want the bottom of the upper cabinets to be? If the 1st thing is true, then I think what you mean is that you build the upper cabinets to a size that will then allow them to rest on the top of the furring strip? Your professionalism is amazing!
Correct.
what length bolt do you use for the rivets?
Great video! Do you have a video on how you insulate your vans?
Great video Jeff. Thanks for taking the time to share your tips. You mention that you use stainless steel 1/4-20 rivnuts and stainless hardware. Can you tell me what tool you use to install the rivnuts? I’ve been struggling to find a reliable, repeatable tool to easily install these. Thanks again.
Thanks. I just use a tool I bought on Amazon. They are a bit of a pain to use.
Really appreciate your content ! Being your dealing with Sprinters you make it much simpler.
Sweet framing! I'm curious on how you were using the riv nuts, did you have a gun to do it?
I just use a manual tool from Amazon.
I see you are using Havelock wool to insulate, have you done a video on that instal?
Thank You!! ☮❤🕉
Thanks for the video! What size tek screws do you generally use for the furring strips? Thanks !
I really needed this (but man it was so hard to pay attention to what you are explaining with that noise in the background). Thanks anyway.
is there a reason you are not using Plus nuts instead of rivnuts? thanks in advance
No. I just have the rivnut tool. Either works fine.
@@OurThrivingLife thank you so much for responding. I’ve got the plus nuts. Love how simple and in depth your explanations are👍🏽 keep those vids coming😀 im a first time van builder and I’m working on my 2000 250 econoline and in many ways a van is a van is a van. It all applies 👍🏽
@@princesspamela1959 Good luck with your build!
@@OurThrivingLifeWhy do you use both riv nuts and zip screws? Are there different purposes? I chose riv nuts but feel like the only advantage is being able to treat the holes so they don’t rust. The glue makes things non removable anyway. Where riv nuts would be great is for the cover panels but i guess can really use them in the wood framing. So yeah…why zip AND riv nuts?
Great tips..too bad the planer noise is in the background. Very distracting....
Sorry about that. We do our best, but it’s a working shop and we’re trying to provide useful info for DIYers.
That noise killed the video.
Really with freaking noise? Most annoying van build video ever.
Listening to you talk over a power tool?!? No thanks.
The bad audio section was really painful to try to listen to and should have been re-done for sure.
Thanks for all your advice so far. Much appreciated. So, why no framing with the 1/4 inch baltic plywood? P.S. Just finished install of MaxAir Fan and Dometic RTX 2000 in a Transit, mostly helped by your videos. Thanks, again. Then a huge storm here in New England a week later . . . no leaks, not even a drop. 😀
Awesome. Congrats on the successful fan and AC installs. I use 5/8” BB ply so I have something really strong to attach shiplap ceiling and cabins to.
Excellent methods, well explained. 😊
Really helpful. Thanks xx
Just about to start framing my van. This video has set me up with great tips. Thank you.
Best of luck!
I can't believe that you're trying to narrate with this background noise! Goodbye!
The older I get (77), the harder it is for me to hear clearly. I have to use cc for all TV shows, but I really didn't have a problem with this video. The cc helped for the brief areas I missed out on.
Jeff do you have a link for the self tapping screws you use? Or the size? Thank you.
I use the Teks 1-1/2” #12 screws. You can get them at Home Depot or Lowe’s.
Do you worry about rust with those self tapping screws?
No. We use stainless steel screws.
@@OurThrivingLife I am talking about the van metal. It’s technically cut so it may have bare spots.
Thanks for the video! Any concern with the tech screws and the metal eventually rusting? I see people often add some primer when drilling out holes for their plus / riv nuts
I add primer when using riv nuts. When I use tech screws, I put a dab of the adhesive where the screw goes in. The adhesive goes in the hole with the screw and provides a nice seal.
@@OurThrivingLife When you say adhesive, are you talking about the marine locktight?
Thank you so much for this video, I wasn't sure how I was going to deal with the curved walls of my 2013 sprinter, and now you've made everything quite clear. I've got one question for you. The seller included an RV door for me to install, given that this model doesn't have a sliding door. I assume that could be a very difficult task. Do you have any recommendations for me?
It was a great video til the router noise got louder than the presenter. I wish i could watch the rest but way too loud
Sorry about that. It’s a working shop.
Great video, thanks for the detail! Question…on your vertical framing pieces, do you just have empty space between the vertical piece and the van metal? (as the wood is straight and van is curved) I’m framing out a Sprinter now and wondering how you handled that. Thanks!
Yes. We put a dollop of marine adhesive to fill the void.
Excellent! The best I've seen yet. A lot of common sense communicated so well. Just a pity re. the background noise! 😱
Glad you enjoyed it!
You mentionned that you prefer 5/8" birch plywood for furing strips, which end up being 9/16", for better screw grip, but for the benefit of your viewers and DIYfers, I am wondering when you screw in your cabinet and bed attachment for instance, do you use 1/2" or 5/8" wood screws which in fact only leaves a 3/8" or 1/2" grip because the needle point of the screw has no grip, or you use 3/4" or 1" screws that goes through the metal holes of the van structure that leaves a true 5/8" grip in the wood? In other words, arre 1/2" or 5/8" wood screws strong enough to hold everything or longer screws better?
We attach all of the cabinetry and bed rails to the metal interior of the van. The furring strips are only there for the ceiling and wall boards. We use 1-1/4" screws for the ceiling. We place the screws where the furring strips overhang the metal, so the screws go through the furring strip without hitting any metal. We use 1" pin nails along with marine adhesive for the wall boards.
Thanks for the precision because your demonstration led me (and others?) to believe that you anchored the cabinets and the bed rails to the furing strips and I didn't find it very sturdy unless the screws were going through all the thickness of the wood. I agree with you that screwing on the metal studs is much stronger to ressit vibration and unfortunately if it happens a car crash.@@OurThrivingLife
Hey so I watched the previous video and I had a question. On the roof framing where you cut two small sections (one on either side) why do you not just run a single length piece across the roof instead ? Especially since you have riv nuts, self tapping and the adhesive ?
You could do that. I like to follow the contour of the ribs, and using separate pieces seems to work better for me.
@@OurThrivingLife do you think by cutting smaller pieces it sticks better ? So it doesn’t have a tendency to open up then ?
Thanks for sharing this video.Would you please share the type of self taping screw that you used for the vertical furring strip?
I no longer use self tapping screws. I pre-drill holes and then use #12 x 1-1/2” stainless steel screws.
@@OurThrivingLife Thank You!