For the pin on the clutchhandle! It's made of aluminium so it's easy to just hammer out the end if you're noticing that it's starting to come loose. Apply heat to it I wanted to match my handles for frontbrake and clutch so I bought both L&R version of that handle. To make the new handle have the same function as the og clutchhandle I just matched up, marked and drill the same holes for the pin in the new handle. Took a cremebrule torch, heated and hammered the pin on the og clutchhandle to shape so I could take it out and re-use it for new handle. Put the pin in the holes I made on the new handle, heated and hammered the pin back to shape again so I doesn't fall out. Works great!
They have a different version like the one he had there is no fiddling. You just pull back the lever an pull back the lock tab. No trying to find the groove. There awesome you gotta try one. I had same problem as you until someone pointed out there is two different kinds of red levers. I’m never going back to any other lever now. Always look at the bottom latch.
Tony, you can also use a 3 speed twist shifter for the clutch leaver. This option leaving you with twisting it on the handlebars or make it a jockey shifter and mount it on the side of the frame
@@tonytaylor5087 yeah it's also called a suicide shifter. As far as I remember how to make one, I would say you'll need some nuts, a small threaded rod, a PVC end cap, some scrap handlebar material and epoxy. I did this for a small bike for a parade (this was a rare friend's order) and welded the handlebar material to the top tube next to the tank(was unmounted before hand). They only needed a way to engage the engine and disengage it for small stuff. Wish I took pictures of the build as well but wasn't fully returned to motorized bicycles till need came in 2019. I would say try to make your own take on it, for I'm thinking of redoing it with another build I'm going to make.
Hey bro just to elaborate those clutch pads are actually lower quality than the ones that were already installed in that motor. Those ones are known to squeak bad and not grip as well. The black pads with the grid pattern are better in my experience
I think so too.When I first installed my kit,the 1st 'extra' part I bought was a "Replacement Pad Kit",and they sent a bag of pink pads that looked like 'Pepto-Bismol' tabs and they were too small to fill the spaces.I bought the entire clutch replacement unit with original style pads instead.3000+ miles on 'original' clutch and pads with a few adjustments over 4 years.
Hey I have a Beach cruise style bike with hand brakes pads on front,back pedal brakes on the back wheel. My question is there a way to put mag 3 spoke rims ? I’m not sure if and how to change them to disk brakes? Or if the brackets will work on my frame? Do u have a video or information on that?
Guys, I have a dilemma, I need you to help me find out if the PWK 24 mm MotoForce Racing V2 Carburetor is suitable for my 80cc motorcycle, please give me an expert answer, thank you
I dlike the one that come in kit.the red one snap on me and i couldnt let it idle by itself. And i will eventually upgrade to combo brakes and i will also try a thumb throttle
Yeah I really like the red lever.. it allows you to let your bike sit and idle without having to manually hold the clutch handle while adjusting the carb or like I did once or twice when it gets cold outside, I had to stop rolling and almost hug the motor cuz I was freezing my taters off.. I stopped rolling, locked the clutch in neutral and hunkered down beside the engine to warm up my digits.... but yeah the red handle is like having a third helping hand... say what you like, but it's made me a believer indeed... plus I'm sure there's other nifty little benefits to having a locking mechanism built right into the handle... I used to carry a velcro strip to rap around it for a cheap locking option, then I found my new handle lever... 😊
@1:15 i see that your ratcheting clutch lever is operated an index finger. hmm however most of mine are from ebay/amazon and are operated by a thumb. interesting ^_^
Do not purchase the red handled ratchet type lever. The metal 3 notched adjuster can slip and the lever pin gets to moving up and down creating more room for slipping. And can pop out while idling . I would never volunteerily buy the red handle lever. If it comes in your kit just be careful. But I would buy the one with the spring and pin. Just my opinion.
For the pin on the clutchhandle!
It's made of aluminium so it's easy to just hammer out the end if you're noticing that it's starting to come loose. Apply heat to it
I wanted to match my handles for frontbrake and clutch so I bought both L&R version of that handle.
To make the new handle have the same function as the og clutchhandle I just matched up, marked and drill the same holes for the pin in the new handle.
Took a cremebrule torch, heated and hammered the pin on the og clutchhandle to shape so I could take it out and re-use it for new handle.
Put the pin in the holes I made on the new handle, heated and hammered the pin back to shape again so I doesn't fall out.
Works great!
the red clutch lever stinks you have to fiddle with it to get it to lock la hover has a video on how to fix that handle
They have a different version like the one he had there is no fiddling. You just pull back the lever an pull back the lock tab. No trying to find the groove. There awesome you gotta try one. I had same problem as you until someone pointed out there is two different kinds of red levers. I’m never going back to any other lever now. Always look at the bottom latch.
Tony, you can also use a 3 speed twist shifter for the clutch leaver. This option leaving you with twisting it on the handlebars or make it a jockey shifter and mount it on the side of the frame
Interesting! Just like this one I wonder how that would feel when riding. Thanks for sharing. 😊
@@tonytaylor5087 yeah it's also called a suicide shifter. As far as I remember how to make one, I would say you'll need some nuts, a small threaded rod, a PVC end cap, some scrap handlebar material and epoxy. I did this for a small bike for a parade (this was a rare friend's order) and welded the handlebar material to the top tube next to the tank(was unmounted before hand). They only needed a way to engage the engine and disengage it for small stuff. Wish I took pictures of the build as well but wasn't fully returned to motorized bicycles till need came in 2019.
I would say try to make your own take on it, for I'm thinking of redoing it with another build I'm going to make.
Thank you, I wonder how it works? I ride front brake?
Hey bro just to elaborate those clutch pads are actually lower quality than the ones that were already installed in that motor. Those ones are known to squeak bad and not grip as well. The black pads with the grid pattern are better in my experience
Good to know your experience. I’m looking forward to running them so that I can report how they wear over time.
I think so too.When I first installed my kit,the 1st 'extra' part I bought was a "Replacement Pad Kit",and they sent a bag of pink pads that looked like 'Pepto-Bismol' tabs and they were too small to fill the spaces.I bought the entire clutch replacement unit with original style pads instead.3000+ miles on 'original' clutch and pads with a few adjustments over 4 years.
Oh yeah those pink ones were like pencil erasers. 😬
he wanted to do a quick downgrade on the engine
These pads that he was installing weren’t the stock “eraser” ones they were an upgraded version with higher friction
Hey I have a Beach cruise style bike with hand brakes pads on front,back pedal brakes on the back wheel. My question is there a way to put mag 3 spoke rims ? I’m not sure if and how to change them to disk brakes? Or if the brackets will work on my frame? Do u have a video or information on that?
Guys, I have a dilemma, I need you to help me find out if the PWK 24 mm MotoForce Racing V2 Carburetor is suitable for my 80cc motorcycle, please give me an expert answer, thank you
I dlike the one that come in kit.the red one snap on me and i couldnt let it idle by itself. And i will eventually upgrade to combo brakes and i will also try a thumb throttle
They should make one of those break clutch combinations with two break lines
The "eraser" style pads have the major advantage of being able to sand off the black build up that makes your pads slip
Yeah I really like the red lever.. it allows you to let your bike sit and idle without having to manually hold the clutch handle while adjusting the carb or like I did once or twice when it gets cold outside, I had to stop rolling and almost hug the motor cuz I was freezing my taters off.. I stopped rolling, locked the clutch in neutral and hunkered down beside the engine to warm up my digits.... but yeah the red handle is like having a third helping hand... say what you like, but it's made me a believer indeed... plus I'm sure there's other nifty little benefits to having a locking mechanism built right into the handle... I used to carry a velcro strip to rap around it for a cheap locking option, then I found my new handle lever... 😊
My clutch cove broke on opposite side of clutch cove where stop right screw goes in
Do you have a link for the pads
I put it in the description my man.
This is coming up for me I believe.
I can’t find the first lever anywhere
@1:15 i see that your ratcheting clutch lever is operated an index finger. hmm however most of mine are from ebay/amazon and are operated by a thumb. interesting ^_^
Do not purchase the red handled ratchet type lever. The metal 3 notched adjuster can slip and the lever pin gets to moving up and down creating more room for slipping. And can pop out while idling . I would never volunteerily buy the red handle lever. If it comes in your kit just be careful. But I would buy the one with the spring and pin. Just my opinion.
WHY 2 DIFFERENT CLUCH TIGHTNESS. THATS STUPID