Just starting out, purchased a fiberglass buggy, tirying to get the center mount Dellorto 40 to run correct. Just for cruzing around town, not worried about performance. I'm told it is a 1835, I love all the info from your videos. I have watched all the carb videos many times. Thanks keep filming, J Kelley
Hi there ezey always good to see the good times you have out there you are so lucky.such beautiful land scape .and thanks for all you tips .I wish you worked type4 engines as there is so much that needs your kind of expertise in this thanks Andy
I think I missed some info.The weber carb in this video is it box stock and 1600 stock dp with stock cam. thanks for the info and thanks for all your videos
I spent so much time tuning my single 44 IDF. Even with a huge cam, vacuum advance made a huge difference. Having a smooth running engine is underrated!
Probably not. You can get good performance and economy from dual carbs and make more power. If the engine has a performance camshaft going to a single carb will create smooth running problems. You will also need a different intake manifold that has heat and a vacuum advance distributor A stock 34 PICT 3 will work great with stock camshaft
So I have the vacuum in and the engine races,I have no control over the throttle? Any suggestions? Im about to tear the whole thing back down and run my stock carberator!
+Donald Yeager I would love to help but almost nothing to go on. Sounds like you have fuel and air from someplace? Throttle plate closed. Some models had a choke lever in back and used a different enrichment circuit? If you post vid and give me a link to watch?? Have you got the Weber book? Most carb books have a trouble shooting section?????
Hey, I love you videos, and I've learned so much from you! I know we all dream of the center mounted weber idf on our VW motors, but I was thinking you can appreciate this so I wanted to share with you. This is a 44mm weber idf center mounted on a 1600, now it's not stock, 12.35:1 compression, fat performance FC19 cam, .30 off set ground crank for true 1600 displacement, single heavy duty valve springs, stock heads & valves with stock ratio rockers all balanced with a lightened flywheel running on 114 race gas but you get the idea... Head over to my youtube page and watch the first and second video I have up on there.
Sorry to be so offtopic but does any of you know a tool to get back into an instagram account?? I was dumb lost the login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me
@Marco Ty thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
a lot of the problem is the stumble, or soggy bottom, but it's due to lack of heat beneath the carb. The manifold is cold and the fuel falls out of the air moving thru the manifold and it goes lean. got to have a very warm manifold beneath the carb to get the driveabilty back. If your in the desert with over 100 degree F ambient may be ok with out heat...otherwise, got to get it hot.
i had a double barrwl progressive on my 1641, took the mech about a week of driving to get the carb tuned in just right, an it was a nice carb for my freeway driving , good info, the best reviews are from the consumer an not the manufacturer
Thank you sir for sharing your valuable knowledge with us. Excellent advice for anyone who is interested in tuning or even thinking about tuning their engine. After watching your videos I am removing my big cam from my 1776 and installing the stock cam. I can’t get the big cam motor to idle for nothing.
I have just spent this winter replacing duel carbs rebuilding them adding a cat. Conv. All I am attempt to pass emissions here in Nevada!! 😢. So I just installed new single idf manifold and card linkage (linkage was the worst)🤣🤣. Numbers on the 4 gas were double than acceptable before. Wouldn’t even fail the test as Co2 was over 19% 😊. Hopefully my single idf will at least fail it so I can get a wavier . 😂😂 as I have spent double required
EZ, I have a 1641 with a 40 IDF. What jets are you using? I can't get mine to run right. It's to rich. I have new jets. I probably have the ones you used. Thanks in Advance.
Yep, living the dream! EZ I like the IDF 40 single for the beetle, but I had an a/c also and didn't want duals tucked in there for some of the same reasons you said. Very good points
I have a 40idf same as the 1 in this video. How do I hook up the manual choke? Can you show in a vid? There is no choke cable on my application. Dune bug.
tank's I will have to look in to hao to rebuild one yu ven alat of help to me sense I have to learn hao to tank's agien sorry if I send to meny text but yu my only hope
Looking at this carb for a 1776 build. Stock cams, stroke, ect. Really looking for OEM plus performance. What carb would you recommend? Torn between this and several other options and having a hard time sifting through all the internet fluff. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
With a fresh 1776 your way far ahead on power. If your serious I would start with the stock 34 PICT 3 carb with a 130 main jet and use a stock muffler with big bore tips. The key to making any center mounted carb work well and keeping the fuel in suspension is manifold heat and nobody did it better that the stock factory. The cams are the same on the 1300, 1500 and 1600 engine because it works so well. I recommend you drive this car for a few thousand miles and let other folks drive it without telling them what you have. They will wish it was there's. If after this you don't mind constant tinkering and don't mind tight quarters I would suggest Dual Kadron Solex 40 carbs, with some cheap headers. All VW engines that are often revved over 4.500 RPM should have heavy duty single springs. If your rocker arm geometry is correct you can still stick with good used stock push rods. After 30 years of owning and driving VW cars and busses countless miles on and off road. Spending enough money to buy a brand new Porsche the 1776 with stock cam and heads is my pick of the littler. If you want something bigger and faster save your money and go all out but keep your 1776 stock to put back in when you want to enjoy a reliable ride.
hello GZ, I'm from Mexico in baja, I have a 1775cc in my vw vocho I have a carb 34 pic and a distributor and toyota 22r coil installed in my engine, "it's a special job"; * I want to put a 44 or 40 idf, which carburetor you recommend and which brand of distributor and coil you recommend so that it has a good performance, on the road and out of road
carcraftstore.com/carbsets.aspx A SVDA vacum distributor with blue coil will work with most single carb set ups. However your engine might make a lot of Horsepower but drivability and gas mileage will be low. Expect 10 MPG or less. You really should be running higher compression and use 93 premium octane to get the most benefit. Good Luck with your project
so I've got this exact same setup on a Baja. Center Mount 40 IDF in the process of redoing the entire intake system. I'm skeptical that I will be able to get it to idle with the butterflies all the way closed. Should I try it or should I just go ahead and drill the holes like you did? I understand that the minimal amount of air coming around those closed butterflies was designed to run one cylinder instead of two.
I had to drill the holes because the engine was a 1800 and the bypass screws would not work. You must have heat in the manifold for it to work right when weather is under 75 degrees. The refrigeration effect drops the temp 36 degrees and the fuel becomes liquid and won't burn. If you do have to drill the holes start with something under 1/16 and test it. Put the holes on the other side of the throttle shaft away from the progression parts. I did mine wrong. You also need a 0-bypass valve on the accelerator pump inlet. I also had to run 55 idle jets and it still had a flat spot
Have you ever considered checking out Throttle Body Fuel Injection, such as Holley makes. They have a single barrel as well as a two and four barrel ones.
I saw a vid on a VW Baja with one. It wasn't to detailed. I checked out the price and then there is still that manifold heat issue. CB makes one with just a throttle body and the injectors are on the in manifold at the head $$$$$$ If people won't buy it there won't be price war's to make them cheaper. I think thats why all these copy cat carbs are available.
20 years ago I welded up a set of type I dual port manifolds to accept Bus Type IV dual Solex. I can't say I had very good results, but then I wasn't very good at engineering equal flowing manifolds and proper linkage. My point is that the search for the streetable affordable dual carbs is endless
+Raymond Heath Seems that way some times. Look at the experience you gained and kept with you all these years. I have tried to make things from time to time because I wanted to save a $. Afterwards the price didn't seem so bad. Just cause they look simple don't mean the average guy can make them. Thanks for watching and sharing
Really appreciate you answering all these questions it's a ton of help when you have little experience. Here's another one for you? On my 40 IDF when the throttle plates are closed they just barely cover all of the progression holes. When I go to tune the carb if I screw the idle screw in at all it will start to uncover that first progression hole. Is that normal? I thought I heard you say in one of your videos that all the progression ports are supposed to be hid while the vehicle is at idle..
The throttle plate should be directly over the first progression hole. The throttle plate is not round so it allows some air to go past. The needle valves are then used to smooth out your idle. You must use the correct size carb and venturi that Weber recomends for the displacement of your engine or they won't work properly at idle or low RPM. The Individual Runner carbs, IDF, have individual Idle jets and mixture screws for each barrel. They also have an additional air bleed screws and lock nuts. This is not used for idle adjustment or idle quality. The settings for these screws should be closed. Standard IDF Settings: Speed screw ¼ to ½ turn in after contact with lever maximum. Mixture Screw 1 turn out from lightly seated. “Lean Best Idle” Procedures After confirming the linkage allows the throttle lever to seat against the Idle Speed Screw. Back off the Idle Speed Screw, then turn the screw in until it contacts the throttle lever and turn it in ½ turn. Turn in the Mixture Screw in until it “LIGHTLY” seats, then back it out 1 full turn. Loosen the 8mm wrench size nuts on the “air bleed” screws, turn in the air screws until it seats then tighten the nut. a. Start the engine, it will run slow and like a tractor. As long as it will stay running, the idle speed is not important at this point. b. First, turn in the mixture screw until the engine runs worse, then back out the screw ¼ turn at a time. The engine should start to smooth out. Continue to back the screw out ¼ turn at a time until the screw does nothing or runs worse. Then turn it back in to the point where it ran best. You want to tune the engine by sound. Adjust each mixture screw to the best, fastest and smoothest running point. Do this procedure with each mixture screw. c. Now you may adjust the Idle Speed Screw. It should be sensitive and only require ¼ turn in or out to achieve the idle speed you like. d. These carbs are commonly used in pairs, this makes the synchronization important, be sure to bring the high flowing carb down to the low flow carb. Then bring them both up to “proper” Idle speed. The Idle Speed Screws are not opened more than ½ turn in. e. After synchronizing multiple carbs, reconfirm steps b. c. & d. “Simple Rules for Calibration” If your mixture screw is out more than one turn like 11/2 turns then your idle jet is too lean, go up one half size on the Idle jet. If you mixture screw is not out one full turn, something like only 1/2 turn out from seated then your Idle jet is too rich, go down one half size on the idle jet. This is all based on the important fact that your speed screws are not open more than ½ turn if they are then that is also an indication that you have a lean Idle circuit. You are cheating by opening the throttle plates and exposing additional progression holes in the transition.
+Jaime Willard They work fine if set up correctly and you have plenty of heat in the manifold. Stay tuned. I am going try and put one on this 1800 I just built.
G'day Kevin from Australia. Just watching some old videos of yours and i noticed the fuel regulator you have in rusty. How do you find that particular brand of unit is it worth spending dollars on . Cheers hope all is well in your world.
hi man, I have dual webers dcoe 45 mounted on a 1,8L BMW M10 engine, the question I have is I've been using a redline electric pump at 8psi approximately. do you know what would be the ideal psi for this kind of setup?
TheEZGZ thanks man! I did just that but when I hit the gas pedal the engine would starve, and when I raised the pressure back to 6psi the problem was gone, do you know the reason for this? I can tell you the gap between the carb covers and the floats is way above 13mm, do you think float level has a relation with psi and possible engine starvation? or should I look somewhere else? thanks again man, I've watched all your Weber videos and they've been so helpful!!
I have a 68 baja en et has a1641 but from 1 to 2et hastening so I let go the gas for a minets and then I continue to go it has a bacume advanced distribution so I think is my carb or bacume can yu please help me tank's so much
Hello my friend !! I lo e all your videos ive learned alot from you !! Pls i have 40 idf dual empis carbs on my 72 ghia with 1641cc engine with 110 cam ! And ive been having so much bad issues running them !! Lots of popping and crackling !! Timing is spot on and everything like it supposed to be !! Problem is that i was told the carb jets are to big for this small engine !! I was also told i have to go with smaller jets ! I got Iddle jets 52 Air jets 170 Emultion tube F11 Main jet 130 So i was thinking what sizes to go down Iddle jet 40 or 45 Emultion tube F9 or F10 Air jet 150 or 145 Main jet 110 or 115 Can you pls give me your opinion on this pls ??
Snapping and popping is a lean condition. Clogged idle jet or vacum leak, incorrect float level, clogged fuel inlet. Quit changing things. These things came with the right parts and should work right out of the box. 40 IDF Dual Carbs AIR CORRECTION 2.00 EMULSION TUBE F-11 MAIN JET 1.15 PUMP JET .50 . IDLE JET .55 (d) VENTURII 28mm Must have synchronizer tool and both carbs at same settings Idle mixture screw 1 to 1 1/2 turns out.
EZGZ, I am planning a 76/92 and I have the Case ready, and the 44 heads ready to run with single springs. I am going to use a C35 cam from Scat and want to run a IDF 44. Any Advise about the carburation I am planning?
Great Cam choice. I have one in my 2110. Works best with dual carbs. 44 idf is to big unless you spend the money to get 28 mm venturis like the 40 comes with and a box full of jets. You need heat in the manifold or only drive on 90 degree days.
@@TheEZGZ Best I go with the 40 IDF than the 44 GZ? I hope for a smooth Street machine with a lot of spunk. I watch you and Darin the most. Thanks! Cancelling NETFLIX......
@@lew9215 If you want power, smoothness and economy get the dual 40's. Port on Port is the best way to go. Buy new from a reputable company that will prejet and give you support if you have problems. Your engine is not big enough for the 44's. IMHO The dual 40's should work right out of the box. Trust me...... SCAT C35 Type 1 Camshaft is designed for 1.1-1.25 rockers, and it's specs are .381" Cam Lift, .420"/1.1s and .476/1.25s, with 285 degrees of advertised duration, and 246 degrees of duration at .050", on a 108 Lobe Center. SCAT camshafts have been around seemingly FOREVER, but there is a reason for that (their grinds work well!). While not as State Of The Art as a Web-Cam or a newer FK Series Engle, these are great for the enthusiast that has to watch his pennies! This cam is similar to the Engle W110 grind; it will run like a bag-o-nails with the stock carburetor, so you have to upgrade to at LEAST dual 1bbl carbs, or a single 2bbl. But it's Velvety smooth with dual 2bbls! This cam requires HD Single Springs and Bolt On Rocker Shafts with 1.1 rockers. If you decide to step up to 1.25 rockers you MUST have dual springs! This is also compatible with stock Single Port (barely) or Dual Port Heads, and it works best with Compression from 8.0-8:5:1. Power band is from 1500 to 5000. This cam is known as a "3 Bolt" cam, compatible with "early" oil pumps. The oil pump MUST be compatible with the engine case, and the camshaft, for proper engine lubrication!
Mr EzGz, thank you for your response. I agree, 1.4 may be a POS... But Im using a CHINESE set... Im losing an lash cap every now and then, and I Know they will fail... But torque is unbelievable with a set of stock heads slighly ported, unshrouded vaves, 8.5 compresion and a set of kaddies
Mr EzGz, thank you for your response. I agree, 1.4 may be a POS... But Im using a CHINESE set... Im losing an lash cap every now and then, and I Know they will fail... But torque is unbelievable with a set of stock heads slighly ported, unshrouded vaves, 8.5 compresion and a set of kaddies
The heat risers to the intake from the exhaust must be connected and work well. Most after market exhaust headers will not work properly for this. You must have heat, even in the hot summertime. A vacum distributor might help. I have never had good luck with those progressive carbs. I like it to run perfect
You didn't even Greece the top and bottom of your air filter, how do you expect to keep from getting any dirt inside the carburetor with that garbage filter? The only filter you can put on that carburetor to actually keep it free of debris, is a UMP paper filter.
I get a good seal using the cast aluminum top instead of the tin chrome ones. I agree with you on paper filter being better than cotton in dirt. Where can I buy them?
Or throw out the float bowls, jets, emulsion tubes, accelerator pumps/diaphrams, cold start stumbling, altitude probems..... into the trash and purchase a fuel injection system!! Ha ha ha. Just joking. Making the carb and induction system "work" to your requirements is a satisfying adventure.
***** I have been putting down the miles this week but didn't bother with the camera. Same old paridise. You folks are probably getting tired of seeing me in heaven. LOL
The Weber manual does not specify exactly as it will differ on every engine size and it's volumetric efficiency. I used a fractional drill bit set and started very tiny. No Change. Then went to the next size up in my index and that was just a little to big. I almost couldn't control the idle. It's very important to follow the Weber tuning procedure. You not supposed to turn that throttle stop adjusting screw more than 1/2 Turn in. Your making the new hole to add air and your turning the idle needle valve to obtain idle speed. If your using a intake manifold with a cross over hole it makes everything even harder to tune. If you don't have enough heat in your manifold and you get frost at the base of your carb when cruising then any fine tuning is a waste of time. It will still run at high speed in warm weather but get horrible gas mileage since you have to compensate with such a rich mixture on the mains. Good Luck with your project and consider purchasing a Weber book. The history part is really interesting and educational. The IDF carb was made to run port on port even though you see them on most off road race cars in the desert heat. However you don't win races idling.
@@TheEZGZ I hear You Brother , Ive had heaps of Flat Twin BMW motor bikes been down that Road for years of Porting Heads lightened Fly Wheels Delorto Carbs All The Rest of it , Im In Australia Theres a Company here That Makes Super Chargers and Every thing to Bolt on and Make Them Work , Even with the Stock 34 Pict Carb , Gives heaps more Power they Reckon at a Reasonable Cost , I Like your Vids Verry Informative , I might Go down the Super Charger Path , Its a Little Less Travelled I want some thing Reliable and Comfy to Drive as a Daily Driver Besides Stock is a Verry Realitive Term LOL
+Donald Yeager You would probably want a mechanical advance dizzy. If you want the vacumm you would drill and tap the manifold anywhere convenient. A gas airplane hobby store might have a threaded hose fitting you could use???
TheEZGZ - Correct me if I´m wrong but I do believe the original vacuum dizzy. Took it´s vacuum signal not from "after the butterfly" (manifold), but from before the butterfly. As such it will never work properly if connect as described. On the other hand a vacuum connection in the manifold is marvelous for connecting a vacuum gauge. Which for me is still the best way to tune that bloody thing that consumes all our time... LOL :-) Either case top tips on this video. Thanks for sharing. ;-)
@@TheEZGZ Had an opportunity to purchase an IDF cheap but passed up as I wasn't sure how it would goon an SP motor, so I was just curious. Still curious;)
+Donald Yeager You are correct. My eyes were not focusing. I finally went to in the garage to look. It's right where you said. Sorry. Thanks for clearing that up.
It started when my neighbor gave it to me attached to the chrome intake. I installed it on my 1776cc dual-port engine with 044 heads and a 110 Engle cam. The heads have been hemisphered. Turns out that the carb was originally setup for wide open throttle on a Baja Bug and was just too much for my street Bug. I had the carb venturis reduced in size and rejetted. Has been working great ever since.
Look forward to that off idle stumble every time you take off from a stop. More lift allows for more breathing at higher RPM your stock carb and stock valve springs will limit you. You will also need to use aftermarket shorter push rods. Unless your willing to dual carbs leave it alone.
Thanks. I guess I'll prob wait till I have extra carberation to install ratio rockers. I'd like to keep a centermount since I'm in very muddy terrain. I might get an idf down the road and just live with the compromises.
I used to run an older zenith carburetor and also a bug pack single carburetor but never had any problem with that carburetor anyways. Love the videos keep them coming
EZ great detail and video CB Perf. built our motor that is in our nascar herbie in 1993 with a set of dual Dellorto's ---love them great motor. The deail you share is off the charts thanks for doing so..it is what I love about the you-tube formatt..being able to lisiten to someone with your years of vw experience. Glad to see you are enjoying your retirement. a big thank you from me and my son keeping us vw rookies going.
I just helped a friend do this and it's idles fine but, once you open the throttle blades 1/4 it boges and never gets better untill you close the throttle
Just starting out, purchased a fiberglass buggy, tirying to get the center mount Dellorto 40 to run correct. Just for cruzing around town, not worried about performance. I'm told it is a 1835, I love all the info from your videos. I have watched all the carb videos many times. Thanks keep filming, J Kelley
Hi there ezey always good to see the good times you have out there you are so lucky.such beautiful land scape .and thanks for all you tips .I wish you worked type4 engines as there is so much that needs your kind of expertise in this thanks Andy
andy sheppard Thanks Andy, appreciate the support.
I think I missed some info.The weber carb in this video is it box stock and 1600 stock dp with stock cam. thanks for the info and thanks for all your videos
always enjoy your thoughts and insights... thanks for the videos!
I spent so much time tuning my single 44 IDF. Even with a huge cam, vacuum advance made a huge difference. Having a smooth running engine is underrated!
I got mine to work.😊
I currently have a twin Solex carburettor set up. Would you recommend conversation to a single carburettor, please?
Probably not. You can get good performance and economy from dual carbs and make more power. If the engine has a performance camshaft going to a single carb will create smooth running problems.
You will also need a different intake manifold that has heat and a vacuum advance distributor
A stock 34 PICT 3 will work great with stock camshaft
So I have the vacuum in and the engine races,I have no control over the throttle? Any suggestions? Im about to tear the whole thing back down and run my stock carberator!
+Donald Yeager I would love to help but almost nothing to go on. Sounds like you have fuel and air from someplace? Throttle plate closed. Some models had a choke lever in back and used a different enrichment circuit?
If you post vid and give me a link to watch?? Have you got the Weber book?
Most carb books have a trouble shooting section?????
44idf, recomend manual or electric pump?
Hey, I love you videos, and I've learned so much from you! I know we all dream of the center mounted weber idf on our VW motors, but I was thinking you can appreciate this so I wanted to share with you. This is a 44mm weber idf center mounted on a 1600, now it's not stock, 12.35:1 compression, fat performance FC19 cam, .30 off set ground crank for true 1600 displacement, single heavy duty valve springs, stock heads & valves with stock ratio rockers all balanced with a lightened flywheel running on 114 race gas but you get the idea... Head over to my youtube page and watch the first and second video I have up on there.
+Mark Sweet!!!!!!! Always liked FAT performance. Been around since the beginning. Heading out on a fishing trip. Gotta Run
Sorry to be so offtopic but does any of you know a tool to get back into an instagram account??
I was dumb lost the login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me
@Gregory Kyler Instablaster =)
@Marco Ty thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Marco Ty it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my ass!
a lot of the problem is the stumble, or soggy bottom, but it's due to lack of heat beneath the carb. The manifold is cold and the fuel falls out of the air moving thru the manifold and it goes lean. got to have a very warm manifold beneath the carb to get the driveabilty back. If your in the desert with over 100 degree F ambient may be ok with out heat...otherwise, got to get it hot.
i had a double barrwl progressive on my 1641, took the mech about a week of driving to get the carb tuned in just right, an it was a nice carb for my freeway driving , good info, the best reviews are from the consumer an not the manufacturer
StrtRodder100 Thanks Kenny
Thank you sir for sharing your valuable knowledge with us. Excellent advice for anyone who is interested in tuning or even thinking about tuning their engine. After watching your videos I am removing my big cam from my 1776 and installing the stock cam. I can’t get the big cam motor to idle for nothing.
Glad it was helpful! Nothing wrong with stock or a cheater cam like the Engel w90
Just installed a center mount carb like yours and i am really happy with it, but did you also have an issue with gascable rubbing on manifold?
Yes, I thought about switching to the CB Performance over the top air cleaner base set up but lack of center mount manifold heat was also a problem.
Hi Fluidspace, I am having the same issue - did you manage to resolve it? Drilling a new hole through the fan shroud?
I bend the pipe going through the shroud
I have just spent this winter replacing duel carbs rebuilding them adding a cat. Conv. All I am attempt to pass emissions here in Nevada!! 😢. So I just installed new single idf manifold and card linkage (linkage was the worst)🤣🤣. Numbers on the 4 gas were double than acceptable before. Wouldn’t even fail the test as Co2 was over 19% 😊. Hopefully my single idf will at least fail it so I can get a wavier . 😂😂 as I have spent double required
That's a bummer. I didn't know Nevada was tuff on emissions!
EZ, I have a 1641 with a 40 IDF. What jets are you using? I can't get mine to run right. It's to rich. I have new jets. I probably have the ones you used. Thanks in Advance.
The stock 115 main with a 50 idle on stock 28mm venturi
Ez will the back engine hood work with that carb setup?
not with those velocity stacks and it will probably be restrictive
Yep, living the dream! EZ I like the IDF 40 single for the beetle, but I had an a/c also and didn't want duals tucked in there for some of the same reasons you said. Very good points
Rusty Glovebox I do feel spoiled. Good Friends, Good Memories in God's creative playground.
I have a 40idf same as the 1 in this video. How do I hook up the manual choke? Can you show in a vid? There is no choke cable on my application. Dune bug.
tank's I will have to look in to hao to rebuild one yu ven alat of help to me sense I have to learn hao to tank's agien sorry if I send to meny text but yu my only hope
Looking at this carb for a 1776 build. Stock cams, stroke, ect. Really looking for OEM plus performance. What carb would you recommend? Torn between this and several other options and having a hard time sifting through all the internet fluff. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
With a fresh 1776 your way far ahead on power. If your serious I would start with the stock 34 PICT 3 carb with a 130 main jet and use a stock muffler with big bore tips. The key to making any center mounted carb work well and keeping the fuel in suspension is manifold heat and nobody did it better that the stock factory. The cams are the same on the 1300, 1500 and 1600 engine because it works so well. I recommend you drive this car for a few thousand miles and let other folks drive it without telling them what you have. They will wish it was there's.
If after this you don't mind constant tinkering and don't mind tight quarters I would suggest Dual Kadron Solex 40 carbs, with some cheap headers. All VW engines that are often revved over 4.500 RPM should have heavy duty single springs. If your rocker arm geometry is correct you can still stick with good used stock push rods.
After 30 years of owning and driving VW cars and busses countless miles on and off road. Spending enough money to buy a brand new Porsche the 1776 with stock cam and heads is my pick of the littler. If you want something bigger and faster save your money and go all out but keep your 1776 stock to put back in when you want to enjoy a reliable ride.
hello GZ, I'm from Mexico in baja, I have a
1775cc in my vw vocho
I have a carb 34 pic and a distributor and toyota 22r coil installed in my engine, "it's a special job";
* I want to put a 44 or 40 idf, which carburetor you recommend and which brand of distributor and coil you recommend so that it has a good performance, on the road and out of road
carcraftstore.com/carbsets.aspx A SVDA vacum distributor with blue coil will work with most single carb set ups.
However your engine might make a lot of Horsepower but drivability and gas mileage will be low. Expect 10 MPG or less. You really should be running higher compression and use 93 premium octane to get the most benefit. Good Luck with your project
so I've got this exact same setup on a Baja. Center Mount 40 IDF in the process of redoing the entire intake system. I'm skeptical that I will be able to get it to idle with the butterflies all the way closed. Should I try it or should I just go ahead and drill the holes like you did? I understand that the minimal amount of air coming around those closed butterflies was designed to run one cylinder instead of two.
I had to drill the holes because the engine was a 1800 and the bypass screws would not work. You must have heat in the manifold for it to work right when weather is under 75 degrees. The refrigeration effect drops the temp 36 degrees and the fuel becomes liquid and won't burn. If you do have to drill the holes start with something under 1/16 and test it. Put the holes on the other side of the throttle shaft away from the progression parts. I did mine wrong. You also need a 0-bypass valve on the accelerator pump inlet. I also had to run 55 idle jets and it still had a flat spot
Have you ever considered checking out Throttle Body Fuel Injection, such as Holley makes. They have a single barrel as well as a two and four barrel ones.
I saw a vid on a VW Baja with one. It wasn't to detailed. I checked out the price and then there is still that manifold heat issue. CB makes one with just a throttle body and the injectors are on the in manifold at the head $$$$$$ If people won't buy it there won't be price war's to make them cheaper. I think thats why all these copy cat carbs are available.
20 years ago I welded up a set of type I dual port manifolds to accept Bus Type IV dual Solex. I can't say I had very good results, but then I wasn't very good at engineering equal flowing manifolds and proper linkage. My point is that the search for the streetable affordable dual carbs is endless
+Raymond Heath Seems that way some times. Look at the experience you gained and kept with you all these years. I have tried to make things from time to time because I wanted to save a $. Afterwards the price didn't seem so bad. Just cause they look simple don't mean the average guy can make them. Thanks for watching and sharing
If you have any better suggestions on my carburetor 34 to improve the performance on my 1775 cc engine of my vw I am open fastenings.
thanks GZ
Get a brand new set of Dual 40 Kadrons and with a good exhaust it will really wake up that engine. carcraftstore.com/kadroncarbkitbrosalsolex.aspx
Really appreciate you answering all these questions it's a ton of help when you have little experience. Here's another one for you? On my 40 IDF when the throttle plates are closed they just barely cover all of the progression holes. When I go to tune the carb if I screw the idle screw in at all it will start to uncover that first progression hole. Is that normal? I thought I heard you say in one of your videos that all the progression ports are supposed to be hid while the vehicle is at idle..
The throttle plate should be directly over the first progression hole. The throttle plate is not round so it allows some air to go past. The needle valves are then used to smooth out your idle. You must use the correct size carb and venturi that Weber recomends for the displacement of your engine or they won't work properly at idle or low RPM.
The Individual Runner carbs, IDF, have individual Idle jets and mixture screws for each barrel. They also have an additional air bleed screws and lock nuts. This is not used for idle adjustment or idle quality. The settings for these screws should be closed.
Standard IDF Settings:
Speed screw ¼ to ½ turn in after contact with lever maximum.
Mixture Screw 1 turn out from lightly seated.
“Lean Best Idle” Procedures
After confirming the linkage allows the throttle lever to seat against the Idle Speed Screw. Back off the Idle Speed Screw, then turn the screw in until it contacts the throttle lever and turn it in ½ turn. Turn in the Mixture Screw in until it “LIGHTLY” seats, then back it out 1 full turn. Loosen the 8mm wrench size nuts on the “air bleed” screws, turn in the air screws until it seats then tighten the nut.
a. Start the engine, it will run slow and like a tractor. As long as it will stay running, the idle speed is not important at this point.
b. First, turn in the mixture screw until the engine runs worse, then back out the screw ¼ turn at a time. The engine should start to smooth out. Continue to back the screw out ¼ turn at a time until the screw does nothing or runs worse. Then turn it back in to the point where it ran best. You want to tune the engine by sound. Adjust each mixture screw to the best, fastest and smoothest running point. Do this procedure with each mixture screw.
c. Now you may adjust the Idle Speed Screw. It should be sensitive and only require ¼ turn in or out to achieve the idle speed you like.
d. These carbs are commonly used in pairs, this makes the synchronization important, be sure to bring the high flowing carb down to the low flow carb. Then bring them both up to “proper” Idle speed. The Idle Speed Screws are not opened more than ½ turn in.
e. After synchronizing multiple carbs, reconfirm steps b. c. & d.
“Simple Rules for Calibration”
If your mixture screw is out more than one turn like 11/2 turns then your idle jet is too lean, go up one half size on the Idle jet.
If you mixture screw is not out one full turn, something like only 1/2 turn out from seated then your Idle jet is too rich, go down one half size on the idle jet.
This is all based on the important fact that your speed screws are not open more than ½ turn if they are then that is also an indication that you have a lean Idle circuit. You are cheating by opening the throttle plates and exposing additional progression holes in the transition.
"Small engine" is perspective. It doesn't give an actual size.
How do you think that single 40 would run on a 1915 or 1968 with w100 cam, 7.5 compression and flamethrower 009 with vac asst. Thx
+Jaime Willard They work fine if set up correctly and you have plenty of heat in the manifold. Stay tuned. I am going try and put one on this 1800 I just built.
G'day Kevin from Australia. Just watching some old videos of yours and i noticed the fuel regulator you have in rusty. How do you find that particular brand of unit is it worth spending dollars on .
Cheers hope all is well in your world.
It was something I've had for a long time. I think CB performance is where I got it.
hi man, I have dual webers dcoe 45 mounted on a 1,8L BMW M10 engine, the question I have is I've been using a redline electric pump at 8psi approximately. do you know what would be the ideal psi for this kind of setup?
3 1/2 to 4 psi max with a 5mm or 5/16 I.D. Fuel Line
TheEZGZ thanks man! I did just that but when I hit the gas pedal the engine would starve, and when I raised the pressure back to 6psi the problem was gone, do you know the reason for this? I can tell you the gap between the carb covers and the floats is way above 13mm, do you think float level has a relation with psi and possible engine starvation? or should I look somewhere else? thanks again man, I've watched all your Weber videos and they've been so helpful!!
I have a 68 baja en et has a1641 but from 1 to 2et hastening so I let go the gas for a minets and then I continue to go it has a bacume advanced distribution so I think is my carb or bacume can yu please help me tank's so much
+Stanly Sharp sounds like a carbureator rebuild is a good idea
Hello my friend !! I lo e all your videos ive learned alot from you !! Pls i have 40 idf dual empis carbs on my 72 ghia with 1641cc engine with 110 cam ! And ive been having so much bad issues running them !! Lots of popping and crackling !! Timing is spot on and everything like it supposed to be !! Problem is that i was told the carb jets are to big for this small engine !! I was also told i have to go with smaller jets !
I got
Iddle jets 52
Air jets 170
Emultion tube F11
Main jet 130
So i was thinking what sizes to go down
Iddle jet 40 or 45
Emultion tube F9 or F10
Air jet 150 or 145
Main jet 110 or 115
Can you pls give me your opinion on this pls ??
Snapping and popping is a lean condition. Clogged idle jet or vacum leak, incorrect float level, clogged fuel inlet. Quit changing things. These things came with the right parts and should work right out of the box.
40 IDF Dual Carbs
AIR CORRECTION 2.00
EMULSION TUBE F-11
MAIN JET 1.15
PUMP JET .50 .
IDLE JET .55 (d)
VENTURII 28mm
Must have synchronizer tool and both carbs at same settings
Idle mixture screw 1 to 1 1/2 turns out.
@@TheEZGZ thank you for prompt responce Sir ! Will do all your recomendations , and let you know how it goes thank you again God bless
I'm sold on the carb! lol. Glad it worked good for ya EzGz! Also good to hear you're out and about having fun. Have a good'n
geargriden19 Thanks buddy. I'm not sold yet but I really want it to work so I will keep trying things and live with the issues if they are small.
Hopefully you can get er dialed in and working better to your liking's. Have you gone fishing lately? Have a good'n
Hey Sir, Its awesome all the tech tips you provide.
I have the same carb how did you figure out the linkage it's really loose
It was a big problem. I just kept trying different things until I got something that worked. PITA for sure.
EZGZ, I am planning a 76/92 and I have the Case ready, and the 44 heads ready to run with single springs. I am going to use a C35 cam from Scat and want to run a IDF 44. Any Advise about the carburation I am planning?
Great Cam choice. I have one in my 2110. Works best with dual carbs. 44 idf is to big unless you spend the money to get 28 mm venturis like the 40 comes with and a box full of jets. You need heat in the manifold or only drive on 90 degree days.
@@TheEZGZ Best I go with the 40 IDF than the 44 GZ? I hope for a smooth Street machine with a lot of spunk. I watch you and Darin the most. Thanks! Cancelling NETFLIX......
@@lew9215 If you want power, smoothness and economy get the dual 40's. Port on Port is the best way to go. Buy new from a reputable company that will prejet and give you support if you have problems. Your engine is not big enough for the 44's. IMHO The dual 40's should work right out of the box. Trust me......
SCAT C35 Type 1 Camshaft is designed for 1.1-1.25 rockers, and it's specs are .381" Cam Lift, .420"/1.1s and .476/1.25s, with 285 degrees of advertised duration, and 246 degrees of duration at .050", on a 108 Lobe Center.
SCAT camshafts have been around seemingly FOREVER, but there is a reason for that (their grinds work well!). While not as State Of The Art as a Web-Cam or a newer FK Series Engle, these are great for the enthusiast that has to watch his pennies!
This cam is similar to the Engle W110 grind; it will run like a bag-o-nails with the stock carburetor, so you have to upgrade to at LEAST dual 1bbl carbs, or a single 2bbl. But it's Velvety smooth with dual 2bbls! This cam requires HD Single Springs and Bolt On Rocker Shafts with 1.1 rockers. If you decide to step up to 1.25 rockers you MUST have dual springs! This is also compatible with stock Single Port (barely) or Dual Port Heads, and it works best with Compression from 8.0-8:5:1. Power band is from 1500 to 5000.
This cam is known as a "3 Bolt" cam, compatible with "early" oil pumps. The oil pump MUST be compatible with the engine case, and the camshaft, for proper engine lubrication!
Too much cam for that engine. Try stock cam with 1.4... You will be surprised! More vacuum means better atomization
1.4 suck. 1.25 work great on a daily driver. I learned the hard way. An yes I did it right!
Mr EzGz, thank you for your response. I agree, 1.4 may be a POS... But Im using a CHINESE set... Im losing an lash cap every now and then, and I Know they will fail... But torque is unbelievable with a set of stock heads slighly ported, unshrouded vaves, 8.5 compresion and a set of kaddies
Mr EzGz, thank you for your response. I agree, 1.4 may be a POS... But Im using a CHINESE set... Im losing an lash cap every now and then, and I Know they will fail... But torque is unbelievable with a set of stock heads slighly ported, unshrouded vaves, 8.5 compresion and a set of kaddies
I've got a progressive 2 Barrel that has a dead spot. I'm currently running an 09 distributor. I can't seem to get rid of my dead spot
The heat risers to the intake from the exhaust must be connected and work well. Most after market exhaust headers will not work properly for this. You must have heat, even in the hot summertime. A vacum distributor might help. I have never had good luck with those progressive carbs. I like it to run perfect
+TheEZGZ Thanks
You didn't even Greece the top and bottom of your air filter, how do you expect to keep from getting any dirt inside the carburetor with that garbage filter? The only filter you can put on that carburetor to actually keep it free of debris, is a UMP paper filter.
I get a good seal using the cast aluminum top instead of the tin chrome ones. I agree with you on paper filter being better than cotton in dirt. Where can I buy them?
TheEZGZ Unique metal products makes them, a little pricey, but will keep your motor alive for a long time.
TheEZGZ Nice manx too bro!
What do you do to block the hole in the plenum?
Great videos and info!
I don't
where can I buy a good carburetor 40 or 44 Italian IDF paguina please
carcraftstore.com/carbsets.aspx
what psi do 44idf need?
All webers and dellorto's require less than 4 psi. 3 psi is ideal. For severe off road maybe 2 psi to keep from flooding in the ruff
Or throw out the float bowls, jets, emulsion tubes, accelerator pumps/diaphrams, cold start stumbling, altitude probems..... into the trash and purchase a fuel injection system!! Ha ha ha. Just joking. Making the carb and induction system "work" to your requirements is a satisfying adventure.
Good stuff EZ and looked like a perfect day for a drive with friends.
***** I have been putting down the miles this week but didn't bother with the camera. Same old paridise. You folks are probably getting tired of seeing me in heaven. LOL
Why drill the butterflys when the are air bypass screws?
1. The bypass screws do not flow enough
2. The Weber book suggested doing it, where and how big to make them.
Is that good enough for you?
Where and how Big should I drill holes on butterfly valve?
The Weber manual does not specify exactly as it will differ on every engine size and it's volumetric efficiency. I used a fractional drill bit set and started very tiny. No Change. Then went to the next size up in my index and that was just a little to big. I almost couldn't control the idle. It's very important to follow the Weber tuning procedure. You not supposed to turn that throttle stop adjusting screw more than 1/2 Turn in. Your making the new hole to add air and your turning the idle needle valve to obtain idle speed. If your using a intake manifold with a cross over hole it makes everything even harder to tune.
If you don't have enough heat in your manifold and you get frost at the base of your carb when cruising then any fine tuning is a waste of time. It will still run at high speed in warm weather but get horrible gas mileage since you have to compensate with such a rich mixture on the mains. Good Luck with your project and consider purchasing a Weber book. The history part is really interesting and educational. The IDF carb was made to run port on port even though you see them on most off road race cars in the desert heat. However you don't win races idling.
@@TheEZGZ hey sir, thank you for all these useful technical information, cheers, appreciate it
Do you have any idea on a reliable fuel pressure regulator
www.cbperformance.com/product-p/3178.htm
where i could get a good deal for a single 44mm idf webber for dual port heads
carcraftstore.com/carbsets.aspx
wich one is better Single. 44 or a Single 48 ?
nice Vid I tend to agree I Try and keep as close to stock as possable
Stock is excellent but I'm addicted to a little more power :-)
@@TheEZGZ I hear You Brother , Ive had heaps of Flat Twin BMW motor bikes been down that Road for years of Porting Heads lightened Fly Wheels Delorto Carbs All The Rest of it , Im In Australia Theres a Company here That Makes Super Chargers and Every thing to Bolt on and Make Them Work , Even with the Stock 34 Pict Carb , Gives heaps more Power they Reckon at a Reasonable Cost , I Like your Vids Verry Informative , I might Go down the Super Charger Path , Its a Little Less Travelled I want some thing Reliable and Comfy to Drive as a Daily Driver
Besides Stock is a Verry Realitive Term LOL
where does the vacuum advance go on the single duel carb shown?
+Donald Yeager You would probably want a mechanical advance dizzy.
If you want the vacumm you would drill and tap the manifold anywhere convenient. A gas airplane hobby store might have a threaded hose fitting you could use???
TheEZGZ - Correct me if I´m wrong but I do believe the original vacuum dizzy. Took it´s vacuum signal not from "after the butterfly" (manifold), but from before the butterfly.
As such it will never work properly if connect as described. On the other hand a vacuum connection in the manifold is marvelous for connecting a vacuum gauge. Which for me is still the best way to tune that bloody thing that consumes all our time... LOL :-)
Either case top tips on this video. Thanks for sharing. ;-)
How can I get one of those cards???
The Hallmark section of your grocery store.......
Good stuff Greg
tomswonderfulworld Thanks for checking in Tom
Ever run one of these carbs on a single port motor?
Nope
@@TheEZGZ Had an opportunity to purchase an IDF cheap but passed up as I wasn't sure how it would goon an SP motor, so I was just curious. Still curious;)
are you guys near fort collins?
Loveland
Found it,its the brass fitting above the flange
+Donald Yeager You are correct. My eyes were not focusing. I finally went to in the garage to look. It's right where you said. Sorry. Thanks for clearing that up.
Now that I have that hooked up the engine still races and i have no throttle control? why?
good tips.. thanks for the video.
Elbows Malone Like everyone else. Just fighting the fight.
My single 44 Weber works great!
I'm happy for you. share the details
It started when my neighbor gave it to me attached to the chrome intake. I installed it on my 1776cc dual-port engine with 044 heads and a 110 Engle cam. The heads have been hemisphered. Turns out that the carb was originally setup for wide open throttle on a Baja Bug and was just too much for my street Bug. I had the carb venturis reduced in size and rejetted. Has been working great ever since.
can 1.4 ratio rockers work well with a stock carb?
Look forward to that off idle stumble every time you take off from a stop. More lift allows for more breathing at higher RPM your stock carb and stock valve springs will limit you. You will also need to use aftermarket shorter push rods. Unless your willing to dual carbs leave it alone.
Thanks. I guess I'll prob wait till I have extra carberation to install ratio rockers. I'd like to keep a centermount since I'm in very muddy terrain. I might get an idf down the road and just live with the compromises.
Cool
wtbm123 Hey Terry
Very informative
Roman Acuna Thanks
I used to run an older zenith carburetor and also a bug pack single carburetor but never had any problem with that carburetor anyways. Love the videos keep them coming
EZ great detail and video CB Perf. built our motor that is in our nascar herbie in 1993 with a set of dual Dellorto's ---love them great motor. The deail you share is off the charts thanks for doing so..it is what I love about the you-tube formatt..being able to lisiten to someone with your years of vw experience. Glad to see you are enjoying your retirement. a big thank you from me and my son keeping us vw rookies going.
Dan Love Thanks Dan, I appreciate the feed back. Consider yourself Blessed that you and your son share a common interest.
I just helped a friend do this and it's idles fine but, once you open the throttle blades 1/4 it boges and never gets better untill you close the throttle
Most people use to big of a carb. a 40mm Idf will work fine on a 2276 if jetted properly