That car is vicious. So street. So clean. Gotta love the carb tuning stare at 12:50, thats the Man and Machine zone. The car is speaking to you through your senses, and you are nurturing it with fine adjustments, helping it achieve its Ultimate Form. Theres no feeling like it. Stay gold.
I'm new to this. I've been stock for so long and now it's time to complete my stroker build . The goal is to keep this new engine in my '66 but, my '57 Oval rag might not like a hand me down 1600 SP engine. Thanks for a hands on instruction to a dual carb tune that was stressin' me out more than the building my current engine. Thank you!
good info David everyone always wants to know how to sync carbs. Eliminate all the other issues first. Timing Valves.....points good. then carbs. GREAT WAY TO EXPLAIN IT
Carburetor adjustments sure become more complicated when there are multiple carburetors. In this video there are two carburetors and the job is to equally balance the air flow and the idle mixture between two carburetors. Many years ago my father owned two Volkswagen Beetles. Both of them just had the single stock carburetor.
Good Job reminding ME on this procedure !! We have a 1973 Tin Top Westy with IDF 40's on a 1700. Hasn't run in three years due to electrical issues. Started it last week for a second and would be doing this today if it weren't 85 deg at 8:30 in the morning !!
Awesome video. I cheated with my dual carbs. I put side access panels in. Like em or love em they can make your life that little bit easier. Thanks for sharing man. ✌️ Peace.
Great video! This is exactly how I do it from the book. In my bus, I can reach the Air Bypass screws to fine tune the barrels. But dang...you have NO room in an early Beetle. I'm not looking forward to this when I get my 1915/ IDF engine into my 60' Beetle. You make it look easy!
for me, accessing the forward two mixture screws is easier by sliding my other hand down the firewall from the back side of the open decklid. That's also how I access the forward manifold nuts on these super-tight fitting big engines in beetles. Some folks have cut access holes through the side to the wheel well but not on a beauty like this!
Good stuff. I bought a set of brand new Italian 48 IDFs and 48 IDAs both with match ported manifolds to my super pros. Kept the IDAs and sold the IDFs. Never got to run either set of carbs. I have 4 more wish list items after I get my current engine finished: another set of 48 IDFs this time on big beef match ported street fighter manifolds, a set of geers 51s, those street fighter heads , and a scat or marine billet 86mm crank to go in my tf-1 case. Please keep up the great work David. I love your vw passion -Ted
@@volkstroke 2332 is built out to the heads, but waiting on pushrods and for CB to get more 4.5 quart thin sumps in stock. I also need an ignition box. In the meantime I'm keeping busy by fixing the brake setup on my '59 bug and messing with an Okrasa 36hp I'm building a run stand for. 48 IDAs are just the 2 progression hole ones, no 3rd hole. Wish I could visit Cali so I could see all the cool rides you have in person - Ted
Any detailed How-To videos you want to put up would be greatly appreciated for generations to come. Aircooled Mechanics are a dying breed. If you want to own one today, I think you should know how to keep it running yourself. But I don’t…. So, I come to UA-cam for answers.
The camera will not show it due to its native scanning rate or more correctly its frame rate. Depending on the camera and or what format you are recording in will determine if you can see the strobing of the mark. If you can change frame rates on your camera, you might be able to pick one that will allow you to see the strobe mark in the video. If not, oh well sorry. Old school cameras shot at 525 line 30Frames Per Second(FPS) and usually were slow enough to see a strobe mark. Modern(anything in the 21st century) are all 1080/30 but can be up to 4-6K resolution and a variety of frame rates from 24 to super slow mo high speed rates.
Great Video. You covered all key points. I agree you need to adjust almost every day that your driving. Can you explain what you did at 11:55 of the video. You cut out and then came back with a new tune. Glad your wearing your knee pads.
Good job. However Weber’s have an air correction screw on each throat so you can balance all 4 to perfect lowest idle with linkages disconnected. Then you’ll need to fit the left hand side linkage so you get full open throttle and a tiny bit of slack at idle. Once that is done you need to fit the right hand side linkage and you’ll need 2 anemometers so you can balance the right hand side linkage at higher rpm. It can be done with one but it’s much easier to use 2 as keeping 3000 rpm is hard to keep steady while swapping it from bank to bank. Then you should confirm afr and even dizzy curve to make sure it’s all ok and nothing too lean but that can be done on a dyno or an afr logging tool. Dizzy curve can be done with your timing light and cross referenced using your afr data which then confirms your transition circuit, accelerator pump volume and main jets. Obviously the float height has been confirmed otherwise your main jet might be the right size but could be lean due to a low float height
…when u were turning the idle mixture screw, and no change; u determined it was plugged. What did u do afterwards? Did u remove the mixture screw and spray it, or sprayed into the carb? Thanks.
Any chance you could share the engine specs? I just got my hands on a dual port 1600 for my 64 beetle. Im wanting to put dual carbs on it but not sure if its going to be too much for a stock 1600. Looks and sounds great! Exactly what im looking to do to mine. Cheers
I have that linkage for my dual carburetors those things suck not necessarily the Rod it's the hem joints I see that left one on the driver's side is pretty loose
Hey James I had that same linkage on my 1915cc engine and they suck. I binned mine and purchased a Gene Berg linkage. You can't compare. Empi or Gene Berg.
I have a stock 1584cc with 1.25:1 rocker arms, a 4x1 exhaust header and a set os two solex 34mm... I'm want to put the FAJS 40 set with bigger valves 40x35.5 and stiffer springs in the heads. Thinking in 60-65 whp.. @@volkstroke
The original compression for this engines here in brazil is 7.2:1, very low. The pump gas that we have is 30% ethanol. Thanks for the answares. @@volkstroke
@volkstroke sorry on the snail, the sync tool. It's in-between 3 and 5 on the marks, it idles fine for like 40 secs to a min and then slows down and dies, if I let it, I can always rev it and then it goes back to idleling fine. My left just adjustment screws do like nothing, and I'm also getting popping out the front barrel of both carbs. Got dual 40 dellortos.
That car is vicious. So street. So clean.
Gotta love the carb tuning stare at 12:50, thats the Man and Machine zone. The car is speaking to you through your senses, and you are nurturing it with fine adjustments, helping it achieve its Ultimate Form. Theres no feeling like it.
Stay gold.
Thank you man
I'm new to this. I've been stock for so long and now it's time to complete my stroker build . The goal is to keep this new engine in my '66 but, my '57 Oval rag might not like a hand me down 1600 SP engine. Thanks for a hands on instruction to a dual carb tune that was stressin' me out more than the building my current engine. Thank you!
You can do it!
Thank you for sharing your real knowledge and helping us around the world with our AIRcooled machines!!!
Happy to help!
good info David everyone always wants to know how to sync carbs. Eliminate all the other issues first. Timing Valves.....points good. then carbs. GREAT WAY TO EXPLAIN IT
The best tutorial on carb syncing thanks David awesome job
Glad it was helpful!
Yee
Carburetor adjustments sure become more complicated when there are multiple carburetors. In this video there are two carburetors and the job is to equally balance the air flow and the idle mixture between two carburetors. Many years ago my father owned two Volkswagen Beetles. Both of them just had the single stock carburetor.
Awesome video! Don't think you can explain it any easier than that. Dr. Volkstroke at your service!!!
Glad you liked it!
Good Job reminding ME on this procedure !! We have a 1973 Tin Top Westy with IDF 40's on a 1700. Hasn't run in three years due to electrical issues. Started it last week for a second and would be doing this today if it weren't 85 deg at 8:30 in the morning !!
this is a underrated video, thank you now i can hear the individual tune for mine. A+! new sub!
Thanks for the sub!
Experience taught me dual carbs aren't worth the trouble,but you are making me rethink it. Regardless,that is a beautiful Bug. Ty for the instruction.
Thanks 👍 it’s just better in my opinion they run cooler and smoother
Awesome video.
I cheated with my dual carbs. I put side access panels in.
Like em or love em they can make your life that little bit easier.
Thanks for sharing man. ✌️ Peace.
Never used those before
I like that alternator pulley. No wobble at all.
Awesome information.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
✌️ Peace from Melbourne Australia.
I just tuned my 44s thanks to you sir 🙏
Great video! This is exactly how I do it from the book. In my bus, I can reach the Air Bypass screws to fine tune the barrels. But dang...you have NO room in an early Beetle. I'm not looking forward to this when I get my 1915/ IDF engine into my 60' Beetle. You make it look easy!
for me, accessing the forward two mixture screws is easier by sliding my other hand down the firewall from the back side of the open decklid. That's also how I access the forward manifold nuts on these super-tight fitting big engines in beetles. Some folks have cut access holes through the side to the wheel well but not on a beauty like this!
One of the best vw mechanical tutorials I’ve seen cheers
Good stuff. I bought a set of brand new Italian 48 IDFs and 48 IDAs both with match ported manifolds to my super pros. Kept the IDAs and sold the IDFs. Never got to run either set of carbs.
I have 4 more wish list items after I get my current engine finished: another set of 48 IDFs this time on big beef match ported street fighter manifolds, a set of geers 51s, those street fighter heads , and a scat or marine billet 86mm crank to go in my tf-1 case.
Please keep up the great work David. I love your vw passion
-Ted
Damn bro
Cool😊
You got it coming together
@@volkstroke 2332 is built out to the heads, but waiting on pushrods and for CB to get more 4.5 quart thin sumps in stock. I also need an ignition box. In the meantime I'm keeping busy by fixing the brake setup on my '59 bug and messing with an Okrasa 36hp I'm building a run stand for. 48 IDAs are just the 2 progression hole ones, no 3rd hole. Wish I could visit Cali so I could see all the cool rides you have in person - Ted
My IDAs don’t have a third progression
Nice paint job on that bug.👍
Any detailed How-To videos you want to put up would be greatly appreciated for generations to come. Aircooled Mechanics are a dying breed. If you want to own one today, I think you should know how to keep it running yourself. But I don’t…. So, I come to UA-cam for answers.
Great info, I got my engine running much better
Glad it helped
The camera will not show it due to its native scanning rate or more correctly its frame rate. Depending on the camera and or what format you are recording in will determine if you can see the strobing of the mark. If you can change frame rates on your camera, you might be able to pick one that will allow you to see the strobe mark in the video. If not, oh well sorry. Old school cameras shot at 525 line 30Frames Per Second(FPS) and usually were slow enough to see a strobe mark. Modern(anything in the 21st century) are all 1080/30 but can be up to 4-6K resolution and a variety of frame rates from 24 to super slow mo high speed rates.
Thanks for the lesson. It helped my carbs. 🙏🏽
Great to hear!
Great Video. You covered all key points. I agree you need to adjust almost every day that your driving. Can you explain what you did at 11:55 of the video. You cut out and then came back with a new tune. Glad your wearing your knee pads.
It was the idle jet took it out cleaned it and put it back in
Good job. However Weber’s have an air correction screw on each throat so you can balance all 4 to perfect lowest idle with linkages disconnected. Then you’ll need to fit the left hand side linkage so you get full open throttle and a tiny bit of slack at idle. Once that is done you need to fit the right hand side linkage and you’ll need 2 anemometers so you can balance the right hand side linkage at higher rpm. It can be done with one but it’s much easier to use 2 as keeping 3000 rpm is hard to keep steady while swapping it from bank to bank. Then you should confirm afr and even dizzy curve to make sure it’s all ok and nothing too lean but that can be done on a dyno or an afr logging tool. Dizzy curve can be done with your timing light and cross referenced using your afr data which then confirms your transition circuit, accelerator pump volume and main jets. Obviously the float height has been confirmed otherwise your main jet might be the right size but could be lean due to a low float height
Come dial my Carburetors
NASA we have lift off! 😂
Wow, I've been using my snail wrong this whole time. thanks
Cool glad I helped now you can help me have your friend subscribe too! Thanls
What tool are you using to turn the jet’s out with since it’s so tight in the engine compartment
Small screwdriver
…when u were turning the idle mixture screw, and no change; u determined it was plugged. What did u do afterwards? Did u remove the mixture screw and spray it, or sprayed into the carb? Thanks.
Took the idle jet out and cleaned it
Love your content!
I appreciate that!
If i have a new 2161 engine, to what setting should adjust the valves?
Ask your builder depends on what he used
Great video? With the dual setup, any heat soaking after the engine is shutdown? If so why?
Heat soaking?
@@volkstroke your manifolds getting hot from the heads, creating g a hard start.
@@FixinBugsNStuff if it does that it’s probably got a bad valve job
Great info, no matter what I cannot get mine to flow above 3.5-4, anything above that and it’s idling way too high.
That’s wild that’s probably on a single barril
@@volkstroke dual 40 IDF’s
Yeah or kadrons
Any chance you could share the engine specs? I just got my hands on a dual port 1600 for my 64 beetle. Im wanting to put dual carbs on it but not sure if its going to be too much for a stock 1600. Looks and sounds great! Exactly what im looking to do to mine. Cheers
You need 40s or smaller
This engine is 1914
40 IDFs with 28mm venturis are perfect for 1600 dual port engines.
A how-to video on synching IDAs without the 3rd progression holes would be greatly appreciated!!
It’s the exact same bro
I dont have 3rd progression in my car
Do you experience a very slight annoying stumble when you go from 1st gear to 2nd gear acceleration?
Try more timing
hey.!! david when you come through the bay area i need help with my carbs
Bay Area?!
yes bay area here by san francisco ca.
Oh yeah idk that’s far for us I might drive by On my way! To the Oregon race
@@volkstroke por cual fecha pasas por aca cuando vayas a Oregon
Octubre 5
Thanks for the info 😎
BOA NOITE AMIGOS SOU DO BRASIL ESSE MOTOR FUNCIONA COMO SEM A BOMBA DE COMBUSTÍVEL.
I have that linkage for my dual carburetors those things suck not necessarily the Rod it's the hem joints I see that left one on the driver's side is pretty loose
They sell the homes and rods separately to keep it fresh
Hey James I had that same linkage on my 1915cc engine and they suck. I binned mine and purchased a Gene Berg linkage.
You can't compare.
Empi or Gene Berg.
David where did you buy the Timing Light? Thanks bud....
Advanced auto parts
What a great video👍🏽
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice job!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Here in Brazil, the options are Empi HPMX 40 +R$11.000,00 or FAJS 40 R$4.000,00. Is it posible to get this result with a set of FAJS 40?
Probably
I have a stock 1584cc with 1.25:1 rocker arms, a 4x1 exhaust header and a set os two solex 34mm... I'm want to put the FAJS 40 set with bigger valves 40x35.5 and stiffer springs in the heads. Thinking in 60-65 whp.. @@volkstroke
That will do it
Compression too
The original compression for this engines here in brazil is 7.2:1, very low. The pump gas that we have is 30% ethanol. Thanks for the answares.
@@volkstroke
I am only running a single 40. Should i do this to it?
Only the mixtures apply
good stuff 🤙🏾
Bom trabalho .Parabens !!!
Are you here in the Los Angeles area ?
Monrrovia
is that an msd distributor mate?
Cb performance
What brand of electric pump do run on your bug
This is not my bug I run a Holley electric
What type of brand of fuel pump do you run
What car?
Why do mine idle at like 3and a half
I'm popping out my left side tho and I can't figure out why
Because it has lots of vacuum
@@volkstroke like a leak or?
3and a half what?
@volkstroke sorry on the snail, the sync tool. It's in-between 3 and 5 on the marks, it idles fine for like 40 secs to a min and then slows down and dies, if I let it, I can always rev it and then it goes back to idleling fine. My left just adjustment screws do like nothing, and I'm also getting popping out the front barrel of both carbs. Got dual 40 dellortos.
I need your services !
Yes sir we in Monrovia
I’ll message you on FB
Whats the difference between idf and ida
The carburetors are different in jet locations and fuel delivery
@@volkstroke thanks
How many cc’s here?
Idk 🤷♂️ 😂
Not my build
sounnnnnnnnnnnnnnds goooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooood
☺️
Orale!!!!!
❤
First 🔥
Valve too tight........
Speak up brother, can't hear you when your Bug 🪲 is running 😂
Should I do a voiceover for the next one?
Beautiful oval..
AWESOME STUFF 🎯VOLKSTROKE 🤙🏾🙏🏽🫵🏽
hey.!! david when you come through the bay area i need help with my carbs
Thanks for the info 😎
Any time!
❤