First class ! Finally a video with a real problem explained fully and a real solution also explained fully. AND a bonus perfect explanation of how the idle circuit works. Hands down the most useful carb info I've ever found. When you have a problem, this is exactly what you want to know to be able to fix it.
this is the exact problem I am having with my rail buggy. I guess ill have to pull the carbs and clean them on the bench. thanks for an awesome and complete explanation.
One of the best ways to combat these issues is to run a fine mesh Pre-filter in addition to a quality air filter that is supple enough to make a good seal. It’s sad people often care more about the looks of carbs than having them function properly.
Just wanted to say thank you Vic!! I have been fighting jet sizing and everything else I could think of… watched you video with my coffee this morning and couldn’t finish the coffee. Pulled my 44s and stripped them on the bench, did exactly as you said and my little Fiat is purring like an angry kitten this afternoon!! Thanks again!!
Very informative 👏👌 You kind sir have most definitely shown the world something so valuable and in simple to understand terms. God bless you for your kindness and sharing your knowledge with us!
Very good explanation, there are so many ways that dirt can enter the idle circuit it’s amazing , thank you for fully explaining the Idle circuit, much more in that circuit than I previously thought.
Follow up, my type-4 2.0 ltr w dual 44 IDFs is running better now than it has the entire time I’ve owned it. This video gave me the keys to how these things work. Also highly recommend Vic’s setup video!! Many thanks.
I did not have any popping at idle but major banging when down shifting and just letting off the gas in second or third gear. Could not drive through the neighborhood because I kept scaring dogs and walkers. Watched your video and did exactly as recommended to clean out the "rocks" although it took some contortions to plug all the openings while spraying out the idle jet. I reassembled the carbs and put them back on and went for a spin around the neighborhood. WOW, NO MORE BANGING! I can't thank you enough for the video as do my neighbors and their dogs.
Damn man thanks in advance for the video. I have a fiberglass dunebuggy with a 4 year old 2110cc aluminum engine. It has 40* 35.5 valves with a c35 cam. Compression is 9:1. I have duel idf 40's with 32mm ventures. We moved to Alabama coast this last xmas and a few weeks ago the car started running extremely rough. So I noticed it was #3 cylinder I pulled the carb off at least 3 times didn't change but I didn't clean out them 4 little holes. I just got done test driving it #3 is firing again and its running good. Can't Express how much you helped. It was running so bad #3 was completely dead just cruising or idling but when you stomped on it it would come back. I tried everything the last 2 weeks.
I just did a rebuild on a weber 40 idf and the thing will not ideal and only stay running with the accelerator pump sprays . After this video I believe I know where the issue is cuz my ideal jets was clean when I removed them . Gonna be taking carby off again . Thanks for the detailed info .
Great info. K&N filters still suck dirt. If you take it off and hold it up to the sun and look through the inside you will see all the pin holes in it.
Great piece. I have had trouble with intermittent runnability. Very frustrating. Knowing how the air and fuel flow is infinitely helpful. Thanks for taking the time to share your wisdom. Will be yanking the carb (again) this afternoon.
Thank you so much!I’ve learnt a lot,and this video will be a guide I am sure I will refer back to every time I have an idle circuit problem!And it is also not too long, which is great.EZGZ’s videos are also very informative,but I find them way too long…Thanks again!
the best explaination I have seen...common sense to go opposite the flow that caused the blockage.....If this happened often, it would be tempting to pull that lead plug and thread in a small removable plug...but your method of pressurizing and blocking the proper ports should work.....thanks
Hey, Vic. I had a toyota 5R engine that poped like this one and i went through that sucker like no ones business. Now i know this idle secrete i can say 100% that was the problem. Well done Vic, anyone who disagrees with this is just ego driven. I can see you have pondered many hours into this carb and the payoff is awesome. Bad luck to those who think they know better.
Thank you very detailed however those small silver plugs on your carburetor I am missing one in my carburetor is pouring fuel out of a small hole is that possibly it overflow I wish I could somehow send you a picture thank you
Your video helped me a lot thank you so much. I do have a question though. My driver side carb seems to be stuck at 10 on the synchroneter and I can’t get it to go down to match 5 to the other side. It is now unclogged but doesn’t seem to want to be adjusted now.
That cylinder has the intake valve adjusted tighter than the rest. Making it open farther and longer. That causes more air flow through the meter. Or it has a different bore size. It happens all the time because the cylinders are not always matching. That you would have to figure out with an engine builder near you. It takes measuring tools to figure that out, it could also have a different head to Block spacer. Sometimes you can never get the carbs to match. Also, sometimes exhaust tubing can be different lengths causing the same problem different airflow amount. Best I can do from here. Good luck
@@vicferrarisgarage thank you I appreciate the help. Everyone who has driven the car before me says they “can’t get the carbs right” so what you said makes a lot of sense
Vic, Very informative video. I am new to the Webers as I recently bought a 1972 Corvette with a Jim Inglese 8 stack Weber downdraft setup. I do have a lean pop on the passenger side. I am also running very rich out both sides. I need to find out what size jets are in there and see what Jim recommends for jet sizes. Thank you for posting this video.
Vic, I've watched your video at least a dozen times and it was very helpful in getting my carbs rebuilt. What I experiencing now is after I shut the car off it keeps dumping fuel down the carbs. I did some research and people were talking about the replacement gaskets may be blocking that brass air hole on the top of the carb. They said they were experiencing the same problem I am and once the got that area of the gasket corrected it worked fine. I read one review where I bought my kit and he mentioned he had to trim that area of the gasket slightly as to not block the passage. Will having the air hole blocked cause it to keep dumping fuel after shut down?
jet doctor. stop crap from going under that filter air Base gasket and in the air hole. Like what he did at the float chamber, so there's tubing extend up higher into the air filter. They work very well in the sand dunes. Oregons fine sand.
That was really great!! Thanks. Ok. So we know it's an intermittent blockage that causes the spit. Why does it make it spit......? And why does the spit go out where the idle air should go in? Is it like the idle air inlet is an easy exit for the sudden extra pressure?
Sorry I don’t get what your saying. If it is popping out muffler then it’s lean. If it is popping out the carb. I would be checking timing it may be to advanced or firing order is wrong.
@@vicferrarisgarage The popping out the top of the carb has been attributed to a lean condition (EZGZ and others). Your video was like icing on the cake; ties all the ideas together. Well, for me it does.
Idle speed is done with the main idle screw on this carb. But it is very easy to go to far and get into the cruise range (the 4 holes). That’s bad. The butterflies should always be as close to closed as possible. That can only be done if you’ve got your overall engine in proper adjustment. This is where most people fail. They don’t have the valves and the timing the points the plugs set right before they jump to the carburetor. You should be able to get a good idle speed if you have your valves adjusted properly, timing adjusted properly and mixtures screws properly with the correct jets. I have a video on tuning from bottom up.
Vic Ferrari’s garage Thanks so much, I can see your total dominance on the subject, the way you explain a topic is the prove of the knowledge in your field. Saludos...
I wonder if this is my issue VIC!..i have no response to turning my air mix screw in or out on number 2 cylinder.(dual 44 idf,s).I have spark,i have gas etc.but the cylinder is running very lean to not at all.i cleaned my carbs spotless.i been wondering where the idle circuit is.i swear that damn things plugged up.I have compression,valves r adjusted.I have great spark.but number 2 is not firing correctly.i pull the plug wire and there is no difference.I also can hear a little pop every now and again and my plug is whitish on that side(number 2).Its like its getting very little to no gas on that lower idle circuit.I will clean it as u have suggested.Its driving me nuts for DAYS!!..
@@vicferrarisgarage it was my problem.I got it all cleaned out runs great now!..I switched back to points,few months back.electric ignition burnt out.Thank you...
@@seanpettit6410 That's so cool that this advice fixed your problem. Vic, we will be doing the same with our Weber 44s this weekend. Thanks for the great vide. And who cares if you may have called something by the incorrect term...as long as the thingy magig works after blowing air down the whatcha callit thingy bobber. 🍺😎
You may need to do a leak down test. You may have a bad exhaust valve. It happens when you have the exhaust valve set too tight. Make sure your gap for your valve is 6 thousands of a gap. If the exhaust valve is set too tight when it heats up it will push open when it should be closed. This will also burn the exhaust valve stem and cause it to break off and that will be catastrophic for your engine. So it is important that you check it immediately!
Mike Roland Agency awesome let me know how it goes. Also check your valve gaps make sure that your exhaust is not set to tight volts wagon recommended 4 thousands gap when they started making volts wagon‘s but then people were adjusting the valve too tight so they changed it to 6 thousands feeler gauge to prevent overtightening. If you over tighten the valve it will be open once the engine heats up and it will start burning the valve stem and it will never get compression. Once it Burns a valve stem it will break the valve stem in the head of the valve will bash your piston to death and be catastrophic for your engine. So check this immediately if you have no luck with the carburetor. I do have a valve adjusting video on here.
Hi Vic, i'm facing an issue with my weber carburator, it doesn't has stays in idle, the engine dies, but if i put my finger above the flow tube, the engine idles perfect? what could be my problem? thanks
Mines got issues but not the popping. Mines surging and chugging when I give it throttle while driving. My butterfly all of a sudden stays open even while off.
Sure thats very common. I would check the head to manifold gasket first then work my way up to the carb. The shafts are usually the unlikely leak. Use a spray bottle of soap and water mix on all gasket areas and soak them down. If its a leak it will slow the idle down. Be careful it may be hard to hear the slow down. Single carb set up’s will choke out fast and hard. Dual carburetors running each cylinder on each barrel of a carb will be very hard to spot when it slows down the idle. Let me know
That’s a big leak! Not a good thing. Very warn out. They make kits but a lot of the times the shafts are too old, rusted, or the base of the carburetor is warped. Might need to look into some new carbs. Good luck
@@vicferrarisgarage I have the engine out and cleaned up the carbs and everything. The shafts seem fine and on the leaking side I replaced the shaft bearings. I also put in 55 idle jets and readjusted the floats. The floats were all kinds of out of whack. The setting for it being closed but not pressing down was like 15 to 20mm instead of 10!
Why can't they just make the carburetor with the correct jets to start with? There should be only one jet size that will attain the correct fuel to air ratio for a given air flow rate. Not counting air density or cold starts which will require more or less fuel. Your engine size shouldn't really matter because the jets are matched to the air flow rate through the carburetor. Also fuel viscosity will play a role in jet size but it should be close to the perfect size for a given air flow rate.
First class ! Finally a video with a real problem explained fully and a real solution also explained fully. AND a bonus perfect explanation of how the idle circuit works. Hands down the most useful carb info I've ever found. When you have a problem, this is exactly what you want to know to be able to fix it.
Dam, very informative and well detailed. Never understood how the idle and main curcuit worked until watching this. 👍👍👍 Thank you for your time!!
That is by far the best video I have seen ! Thank you for posting
Nice overview. Good information on a poor quality carburator. Thanks.
Great explanation Vic! thanks for breaking it down. I've been searching for something as detailed as this for a while now.
this is the exact problem I am having with my rail buggy. I guess ill have to pull the carbs and clean them on the bench. thanks for an awesome and complete explanation.
Thank you for the info. Knowing where the air and fuel are fed from and where it's supposed to go really makes cleaning the carb simple.
One of the best ways to combat these issues is to run a fine mesh Pre-filter in addition to a quality air filter that is supple enough to make a good seal.
It’s sad people often care more about the looks of carbs than having them function properly.
Just wanted to say thank you Vic!! I have been fighting jet sizing and everything else I could think of… watched you video with my coffee this morning and couldn’t finish the coffee. Pulled my 44s and stripped them on the bench, did exactly as you said and my little Fiat is purring like an angry kitten this afternoon!! Thanks again!!
Thats awesome. Glad I could help!
Very informative 👏👌 You kind sir have most definitely shown the world something so valuable and in simple to understand terms. God bless you for your kindness and sharing your knowledge with us!
I think you just solved a problem that has mystified me for the last couple weeks. Thanks, a very thorough explanation.
Awesome glad to help.
Very good explanation, there are so many ways that dirt can enter the idle circuit it’s amazing , thank you for fully explaining the Idle circuit, much more in that circuit than I previously thought.
Thanks I finally understand the idle circuit! I hope God is blessing you!
I have watched this video so many times. It is so informative and his help me fix my car problems so many times. Thank you very much! Fantastic video!
Excellent info. Thanks for taking the time to share!
I can’t thank you enough for your informative video. This helped me tremendously figure out what’s wrong with mine.
WOW - this was truly helpful AND informative - Thank you for taking the time!
Excellent video. I've had problems like that and this cleaning strategy should help a lot.
Best informational carb video I’ve watched. Much appreciated, pulling my carbs again this weekend... fingers crossed!
Follow up, my type-4 2.0 ltr w dual 44 IDFs is running better now than it has the entire time I’ve owned it. This video gave me the keys to how these things work. Also highly recommend Vic’s setup video!! Many thanks.
I did not have any popping at idle but major banging when down shifting and just letting off the gas in second or third gear. Could not drive through the neighborhood because I kept scaring dogs and walkers. Watched your video and did exactly as recommended to clean out the "rocks" although it took some contortions to plug all the openings while spraying out the idle jet. I reassembled the carbs and put them back on and went for a spin around the neighborhood. WOW, NO MORE BANGING! I can't thank you enough for the video as do my neighbors and their dogs.
Lol. Glad too help you save the Neighborhood!
Oh wow, can't wait to try the cleaning Excellent explanation and tutorial. Thanks.
That's a great explanation providing insight into how these carbs actually function, Thank you!!
Glad to help. Enjoy the holidays
Great explanation Vic.
Vic thank you for a freaking awesome video!!!!
Damn man thanks in advance for the video. I have a fiberglass dunebuggy with a 4 year old 2110cc aluminum engine. It has 40* 35.5 valves with a c35 cam. Compression is 9:1. I have duel idf 40's with 32mm ventures. We moved to Alabama coast this last xmas and a few weeks ago the car started running extremely rough. So I noticed it was #3 cylinder I pulled the carb off at least 3 times didn't change but I didn't clean out them 4 little holes. I just got done test driving it #3 is firing again and its running good. Can't Express how much you helped. It was running so bad #3 was completely dead just cruising or idling but when you stomped on it it would come back. I tried everything the last 2 weeks.
I just did a rebuild on a weber 40 idf and the thing will not ideal and only stay running with the accelerator pump sprays . After this video I believe I know where the issue is cuz my ideal jets was clean when I removed them . Gonna be taking carby off again . Thanks for the detailed info .
Thanks! Truly helpful and insightful video
Very good explanation of the idle circuit
Great presentation. It's always a good idea to anesthetize your carbs with either before this operation.
That’s awesome lol
Very good information. Thanks vic
that's a awesome video that no one has addressed before, thanks
Awesome video. Thanks for explaining it so
Well
Great info. K&N filters still suck dirt. If you take it off and hold it up to the sun and look through the inside you will see all the pin holes in it.
Thanks for the video.
best vid ever!!!!
Great info video. 👍
Great piece. I have had trouble with intermittent runnability. Very frustrating. Knowing how the air and fuel flow is infinitely helpful. Thanks for taking the time to share your wisdom. Will be yanking the carb (again) this afternoon.
Glad to help. Thanks for commenting
Last time I forgot to disconnect the battery. I put the fire out, but lost a few years off my life (again).
Thank you for this video.
This is very helpful! Keep it up!
Great info! Thanks!
Thank you so much!I’ve learnt a lot,and this video will be a guide I am sure I will refer back to every time I have an idle circuit problem!And it is also not too long, which is great.EZGZ’s videos are also very informative,but I find them way too long…Thanks again!
No problem glad to help
the best explaination I have seen...common sense to go opposite the flow that caused the blockage.....If this happened often, it would be tempting to pull that lead plug and thread in a small removable plug...but your method of pressurizing and blocking the proper ports should work.....thanks
Awesome thanks Larry. Have a great Xmas Vf
Super helpful, thanks.
You just helped me out a ton!
Awesome you made it worth doing!
Hey, Vic. I had a toyota 5R engine that poped like this one and i went through that sucker like no ones business. Now i know this idle secrete i can say 100% that was the problem. Well done Vic, anyone who disagrees with this is just ego driven. I can see you have pondered many hours into this carb and the payoff is awesome. Bad luck to those who think they know better.
good job!--gotta clean all passageways!
Great video
Thank you so much for the full explanation...if only there was a way to clean duals whilst still on the car
I love the details. Anyway, good video
We can now call you EzGeeze Junior😂😂😂 great video
Good info thanks
Very good.
Holy fuckballs this video just made my day! It all makes sense now!
Thank you very detailed however those small silver plugs on your carburetor I am missing one in my carburetor is pouring fuel out of a small hole is that possibly it overflow I wish I could somehow send you a picture thank you
Make a small video. Upload it and leave the link here. I will check it out. Thanks
Your video helped me a lot thank you so much. I do have a question though. My driver side carb seems to be stuck at 10 on the synchroneter and I can’t get it to go down to match 5 to the other side. It is now unclogged but doesn’t seem to want to be adjusted now.
That cylinder has the intake valve adjusted tighter than the rest. Making it open farther and longer. That causes more air flow through the meter. Or it has a different bore size. It happens all the time because the cylinders are not always matching. That you would have to figure out with an engine builder near you. It takes measuring tools to figure that out, it could also have a different head to Block spacer. Sometimes you can never get the carbs to match. Also, sometimes exhaust tubing can be different lengths causing the same problem different airflow amount. Best I can do from here. Good luck
@@vicferrarisgarage thank you I appreciate the help. Everyone who has driven the car before me says they “can’t get the carbs right” so what you said makes a lot of sense
good stuff
Vic, Very informative video. I am new to the Webers as I recently bought a 1972 Corvette with a Jim Inglese 8 stack Weber downdraft setup. I do have a lean pop on the passenger side. I am also running very rich out both sides. I need to find out what size jets are in there and see what Jim recommends for jet sizes. Thank you for posting this video.
Glad I could help!
@@vicferrarisgarage I need to tear these down and see if there is a problem causing mine to run so rich.
Vic, I've watched your video at least a dozen times and it was very helpful in getting my carbs rebuilt. What I experiencing now is after I shut the car off it keeps dumping fuel down the carbs. I did some research and people were talking about the replacement gaskets may be blocking that brass air hole on the top of the carb. They said they were experiencing the same problem I am and once the got that area of the gasket corrected it worked fine. I read one review where I bought my kit and he mentioned he had to trim that area of the gasket slightly as to not block the passage. Will having the air hole blocked cause it to keep dumping fuel after shut down?
My Weber 40's are doing the pop. Would it be possible to use a slight vacuum and reverse clean thru the key straw?
jet doctor. stop crap from going under that filter air Base gasket and in the air hole. Like what he did at the float chamber, so there's tubing extend up higher into the air filter. They work very well in the sand dunes. Oregons fine sand.
That was really great!! Thanks.
Ok. So we know it's an intermittent blockage that causes the spit. Why does it make it spit......? And why does the spit go out where the idle air should go in? Is it like the idle air inlet is an easy exit for the sudden extra pressure?
Sorry I don’t get what your saying.
If it is popping out muffler then it’s lean. If it is popping out the carb. I would be checking timing it may be to advanced or firing order is wrong.
@@vicferrarisgarage The popping out the top of the carb has been attributed to a lean condition (EZGZ and others). Your video was like icing on the cake; ties all the ideas together. Well, for me it does.
Excellent explanation! Just a question: how do you adjust your idle speed? It must be done whit the air bypass screws? Saludos...
Idle speed is done with the main idle screw on this carb. But it is very easy to go to far and get into the cruise range (the 4 holes). That’s bad. The butterflies should always be as close to closed as possible. That can only be done if you’ve got your overall engine in proper adjustment. This is where most people fail. They don’t have the valves and the timing the points the plugs set right before they jump to the carburetor. You should be able to get a good idle speed if you have your valves adjusted properly, timing adjusted properly and mixtures screws properly with the correct jets.
I have a video on tuning from bottom up.
Vic Ferrari’s garage Thanks so much, I can see your total dominance on the subject, the way you explain a topic is the prove of the knowledge in your field. Saludos...
I wonder if this is my issue VIC!..i have no response to turning my air mix screw in or out on number 2 cylinder.(dual 44 idf,s).I have spark,i have gas etc.but the cylinder is running very lean to not at all.i cleaned my carbs spotless.i been wondering where the idle circuit is.i swear that damn things plugged up.I have compression,valves r adjusted.I have great spark.but number 2 is not firing correctly.i pull the plug wire and there is no difference.I also can hear a little pop every now and again and my plug is whitish on that side(number 2).Its like its getting very little to no gas on that lower idle circuit.I will clean it as u have suggested.Its driving me nuts for DAYS!!..
Sean Pettit let me know if this is not the problem. My next question will be do you have a electronic distributor?
@@vicferrarisgarage it was my problem.I got it all cleaned out runs great now!..I switched back to points,few months back.electric ignition burnt out.Thank you...
@@seanpettit6410 That's so cool that this advice fixed your problem. Vic, we will be doing the same with our Weber 44s this weekend. Thanks for the great vide. And who cares if you may have called something by the incorrect term...as long as the thingy magig works after blowing air down the whatcha callit thingy bobber.
🍺😎
You may need to do a leak down test. You may have a bad exhaust valve. It happens when you have the exhaust valve set too tight. Make sure your gap for your valve is 6 thousands of a gap. If the exhaust valve is set too tight when it heats up it will push open when it should be closed. This will also burn the exhaust valve stem and cause it to break off and that will be catastrophic for your engine. So it is important that you check it immediately!
Mike Roland Agency awesome let me know how it goes. Also check your valve gaps make sure that your exhaust is not set to tight volts wagon recommended 4 thousands gap when they started making volts wagon‘s but then people were adjusting the valve too tight so they changed it to 6 thousands feeler gauge to prevent overtightening. If you over tighten the valve it will be open once the engine heats up and it will start burning the valve stem and it will never get compression. Once it Burns a valve stem it will break the valve stem in the head of the valve will bash your piston to death and be catastrophic for your engine. So check this immediately if you have no luck with the carburetor. I do have a valve adjusting video on here.
Hi Vic, i'm facing an issue with my weber carburator, it doesn't has stays in idle, the engine dies, but if i put my finger above the flow tube, the engine idles perfect? what could be my problem? thanks
check manifold for leaks at heads rubber connector or carb base for a vacuum leak.
Mines got issues but not the popping. Mines surging and chugging when I give it throttle while driving. My butterfly all of a sudden stays open even while off.
Weak return springs on throttle shaft or worn out throttle shaft bushing/ bearings. Sticking cable to gas pedal.
Would bad gaskets, bad o-rings, and having the butterflies exposing the four holes cause dieseling?
Carbon deposits on plugs or valves from oil leaking past valve guides
To hot of plugs.
To much advanced timing.
To lean of jets in primary’s
@@vicferrarisgarage this is very informative… thank You
I have dual 40s on my 1776 in my beetle and I have a vacuum leak but it almost seems it's the throttle shaft bushing that's leaking. Is that possible?
Sure thats very common. I would check the head to manifold gasket first then work my way up to the carb. The shafts are usually the unlikely leak. Use a spray bottle of soap and water mix on all gasket areas and soak them down. If its a leak it will slow the idle down. Be careful it may be hard to hear the slow down.
Single carb set up’s will choke out fast and hard. Dual carburetors running each cylinder on each barrel of a carb will be very hard to spot when it slows down the idle.
Let me know
@@vicferrarisgarage when I spray the gasket or throttle shaft area it idles down very quickly and noticeably. Pretty much instantly
That’s a big leak! Not a good thing. Very warn out. They make kits but a lot of the times the shafts are too old, rusted, or the base of the carburetor is warped. Might need to look into some new carbs. Good luck
@@vicferrarisgarage I have the engine out and cleaned up the carbs and everything. The shafts seem fine and on the leaking side I replaced the shaft bearings. I also put in 55 idle jets and readjusted the floats. The floats were all kinds of out of whack. The setting for it being closed but not pressing down was like 15 to 20mm instead of 10!
or just use a brake bleed vaccum pump. Vac pipe inserted in the hole with idle jet removed, sucking all that dirt right out into the bleeder bowl
En español broo
Why can't they just make the carburetor with the correct jets to start with? There should be only one jet size that will attain the correct fuel to air ratio for a given air flow rate. Not counting air density or cold starts which will require more or less fuel. Your engine size shouldn't really matter because the jets are matched to the air flow rate through the carburetor. Also fuel viscosity will play a role in jet size but it should be close to the perfect size for a given air flow rate.
Just get fuel injection
Fuel injection is awesome do you want to go through rivers in a dune buggy. The electronics don’t like water.
But you can go Eco tech. Lol watch later videos
@@vicferrarisgarage well thats a pretty good point lol didn't think about that
excelent video very informative, thank you so much !