We have two 200's (2013), because it's the only hard top convertible with a v6 in our budget. You can find these hidden gems for less than 9 grand! Which makes it reasonable to throw a little money in, to keep them going. (Back in 2019, we were able to get them with less than 100k miles for this price.) The battery mounting in these cars defies explanation. I suppose next round we'll have to step up to the BMWs to get a Transformers hard top and I definitely won't want to work on those myself. This brake swap (to drilled and slotted discs/ceramic pads via Detroit Axle) was actually easier than anticipated thanks to this Outstanding video! I was shocked to find that the existing disc and pads seem to be in very good condition. I would have thought the disc might be warped except it only starts to shimmy in heavy traffic with multiple hard braking occurrences. For one quick stop or under normal braking, there were no problems at all. Hopefully, it will address the brake issue (that both cars seem to have). If so, we'll do the other car also. (If not, then I'll have to consult a Mopar performance shop🙄)
I don't know if you missed anything or did anything wrong because I am not a mechanic. BUT...PERFECT JOB. And I mean as an Educator! I feel like I can go out, buy the correct tools, jack up my POS Chrysler 200s and do this myself. Will I? Probably not. In all likelyhood, not but I can at least know what I am talking about when I get to the repair guy and tell him what needs doing. Thank you so much for the education! Well done.
Nice video, but you don't want to use regular caliper grease on that slide pin that has the rubber bushing (04:21). The reason is because that type of grease causes the rubber bushing at the end of the pin to swell over time, which in turn causes slide pin drag/sticking. For pins with bushings (Toyota has a lot of them too), you want to use a rubber-safe grease like Syl-glide from NAPA, or the pink Toyota "Rubber Grease".
Wow, perfect, a very nice video done in a professional style. This is what I needed to do front brakes on my 2012 Chrysler 200 Touring convertible. Thanks TRQ.
You mentioned the rubber tipped stud "goes on TOP ON THIS SIDE". What does that mean?? Does it go on the bottom on the other side?? I noticed on my driver side that the rubber tipped stud was on the BOTTOM (top on passenger side).
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
I like that you included the size of the sockets or wrenches needed as well as tork specks
Cheers
I followed step by step and did my first brake job 👍
We have two 200's (2013), because it's the only hard top convertible with a v6 in our budget. You can find these hidden gems for less than 9 grand! Which makes it reasonable to throw a little money in, to keep them going. (Back in 2019, we were able to get them with less than 100k miles for this price.)
The battery mounting in these cars defies explanation.
I suppose next round we'll have to step up to the BMWs to get a Transformers hard top and I definitely won't want to work on those myself.
This brake swap (to drilled and slotted discs/ceramic pads via Detroit Axle) was actually easier than anticipated thanks to this Outstanding video!
I was shocked to find that the existing disc and pads seem to be in very good condition. I would have thought the disc might be warped except it only starts to shimmy in heavy traffic with multiple hard braking occurrences. For one quick stop or under normal braking, there were no problems at all.
Hopefully, it will address the brake issue (that both cars seem to have). If so, we'll do the other car also.
(If not, then I'll have to consult a Mopar performance shop🙄)
I don't know if you missed anything or did anything wrong because I am not a mechanic. BUT...PERFECT JOB. And I mean as an Educator! I feel like I can go out, buy the correct tools, jack up my POS Chrysler 200s and do this myself. Will I? Probably not. In all likelyhood, not but I can at least know what I am talking about when I get to the repair guy and tell him what needs doing. Thank you so much for the education! Well done.
Nice video, but you don't want to use regular caliper grease on that slide pin that has the rubber bushing (04:21). The reason is because that type of grease causes the rubber bushing at the end of the pin to swell over time, which in turn causes slide pin drag/sticking. For pins with bushings (Toyota has a lot of them too), you want to use a rubber-safe grease like Syl-glide from NAPA, or the pink Toyota "Rubber Grease".
Thanks for sharing this im going to buy that from Napa 👍👍
Wow, perfect, a very nice video done in a professional style. This is what I needed to do front brakes on my 2012 Chrysler 200 Touring convertible. Thanks TRQ.
Very well thought out video. Even give the torque specs. It helped me. I also did not know small wear indicator goes on inside pad up top. Thanks.
When compressing the caliper, do you need to open the brake fluid chamber cap to vent as the fluid goes back into it?
What size brakes for 2014 chrysler 200 touring 2.4? Front brakes
Did you find out what size they are?
You mentioned the rubber tipped stud "goes on TOP ON THIS SIDE".
What does that mean??
Does it go on the bottom on the other side?? I noticed on my driver side that the rubber tipped stud was on the BOTTOM (top on passenger side).
Do I open master cylinder cap
Excellent video - Thank You
Thanks for this video buddy 👌👍
The only I part I wanted to see you hid like a magician lol. Squealer clip, you hid it like a card trick from the camera
Show rear breaks 🎉
Helpful video, thank you. Also, what a smooth sexy voice. Win/Win.....
❤
Yeah I’d rather just pay a mfer 😂