Nicely Done. Here's a way I replaced my CV axle. Much like you did but you don't need to remove the lower ball joint. Remove the tie rod , and wack out the spline nuts holding the knuckle to the strut. The knuckle will then rotate out way far enough to get the CV axle in. But it's just a matter of preference. For the benefit of others the ball joint separator wont work on the Impala.The CV axle sits so close to the ball joint top nut you cant even get the nut fully off the ball joint stud with out first getting the BJ stud loose and dropping it some. What a Pain!!! Wack it to heck with a hammer, if still stuck use a propane torch, better yet MAP gas, to heat around it but be careful cause you can melt your BJ boot if not replacing the BJ. I needed a clear picture of something and your high res video was great. Thank you. Nicely Done !
just did this last week. use a long prybar with a hammer and get in behind the cv axle and tap to get it to come loose from the snap ring. if the CV axle hasn't been removed and it's 11 yrs old as mine was a puller wouldn't remove it even with hammering and using wd 40 and like products. I eventually was hammering so hard that when reassembling the cv axle I found the axle was mushroomed. with the axle mushroomed I had to replace the wheel bearing due to the amount of hammering against the axle shaft to get the shaft removed. when you beat on the axle for a half hour the bearing takes a beating. a helpful quick way to remove the axle is remove the 2 strut mount bolts where they mount above the wheel bearing hub. rather quick swap out. another helpful hint is when removing the cv axle assembly use a jack and tilt the vehicle in the opposite direction which helps keep transmission fluid loss down. make sure to torque properly. if you have the police or taxi package vehicle the wheel hub nut has a washer. if you don't it's only the cv axle nut. always replace the nut when removing as they're not designed for repeated over and over use. Most replacement cv axles will come with a nut for torquing the cv axle to bearing upon installation. seals are made by various manufacturers so in turn there can be as many colors as there are manufacturers. I recently replaced the right side seal for the axle shaft and it was the same look as the one removed. When installing the seal if there are and minor nicks in the seal seating surface a light coating of black permatex rtv sealant will help seal and porous areas up between the seal and vehicle mating surface. Light coat of oil on seal surface as mentioned is recommended for initial sealing of cv axle to new seal. from my perspective it appears that the sway bar tab may be cracked? Dorman makes a great replacement away bar beefed up compared to the oem. I always replace all bushings with Moog bushings and use antiseize on all metal to metal mating surfaces including the cv axle spline shaft to wheel bearing hub mating surfaces. always torque to factory specs when replacing parts.
Thank you so much to this guy. Helped me tremendously. The only thing is when you start buy the wheel hub bolts in advance.lol. had to run to az . thanks so much for the pacing also. Too often it is necessary to rewind over and over
Keep up the good work. You might want to use whiteout or something else to mark the strut or knuckle to allow you to reconnect the strut in to the same position. You could dip your finger into clean trans fluid and then wipe on to seal before installing. The inside surface of the knuckle will corrode and seize to the metal that houses the ABS to the bearing. Clean surface of knuckle and coat with anti-seize compound before installing new bearing. Also smear anti-seize on shaft splines.
GM recommends to use special tool J-38868 to remove and replace the stub shaft. You should replace retaining clips on the stub shaft prior to installing on the axle. The papers are in the package.
Omg, that seal took about an hour of BS and fiddling to get out. Seal puller wouldn't work. Grabbing the inner part of the seal with pliers and pulling wouldn't work. Ended up just using a flat head and hammering under the outer lip to smash the seal inward. Marred the outer face a little, but I think it'll be ok. In retrospect, I honestly can't think of any other way I could have gotten it out. Got the new seal in w/ a modified 2x4 piece of wood. My plumbing couplers were a total bust, they wouldn't seat it in evenly when hammering it on. Anyway, no visible leaks (knock on wood) in spite of that slightly marred surface at the 3 o'clock area. All the friction that holds the seal in, is on the inner part of the ring anyway, not the outer face. I never heard the axle "click" when it went on like everybody talks about, maybe it's really quiet or I oiled it really well w/ new fluid. But it was definitely on there, couldn't remove it by hand pulling. I also replaced the control arm while I was in there doing stuff, only $75 anyway. Finished up the job w/ a new trans filter and a new Dorman trans pan w/ a drain bolt in it. Thanks for the video K-Train.
Hi. I just wanted to make sure I heard you correctly on the torque spec for Hub Nut. I heard 160 newton meter on the driver side and 130 newton meter for the passenger side. So it has different specs depends on which side you are torqueing?
@@KTrainGarage Thank you for the information. I saw a few UA-cam videos that people are torqueing at 159ft lb, but I heard that is for 7th gen Impala. A guy at the local garage told me 96ft lb yesterday. I am not sure how critical 96ft lb vs 118ft lb, but that's another reason to work on your own car.
Hey great video, thanks for shooting this. I'm working on my '08 Grand Prix this weekend, same project. Where did you find that seal seater? I was going to go to Home Depot and try to find some fitting in the plumbing section that could work.
A metal reduction coupler from the hardware store works if you get one that is the same size as the outer lip. The aluminum seal installer I am using in the video is Atec Trans Tools T-1208 from www.etoolcart.com/axlesealinstaller125.aspx - it is supposed to work with many GM transmissions such as 3T40, 3T40-E, 440-T4, F7, 4T60, 4T60-E, 4T65-E. Alternatively, you can look for GM service tool J-34115
GM has a TSB that the wheel bearings should be torqued to 159ft lbs and AllData says 155ft lbs which is alot more than 159NM = appx 118 ft lbs under recommended GM torque specs.
It's harder. Good tool to have is an axle puller to push the center out of the wheel bearing if the wheel bearing and axle have a lot of miles on them. After freeing the axle from the wheel bearing, disassembly will be easiest if you disconnect the ball joint on the bottom and strut on the top of the wheel knuckle to get the clearance to free the axle from the transmission by prying with a lever or pull the shaft with a slide hammer. Remember a decent amount of transmission fluid will escape out the hole once you pull the shaft so have a catch pan under it.
You sound like Capt Kirk man, can you talk without pausing every other word. Makes it painful to watch the video almost like you are aren't sure what you're saying. Try writing it down and reading from a script and dub it over the actual scenes.
Love the way you pause and allow time for this to sink in. No hurry and doing it right.
Nicely Done. Here's a way I replaced my CV axle. Much like you did but you don't need to remove the lower ball joint. Remove the tie rod , and wack out the spline nuts holding the knuckle to the strut. The knuckle will then rotate out way far enough to get the CV axle in. But it's just a matter of preference. For the benefit of others the ball joint separator wont work on the Impala.The CV axle sits so close to the ball joint top nut you cant even get the nut fully off the ball joint stud with out first getting the BJ stud loose and dropping it some. What a Pain!!! Wack it to heck with a hammer, if still stuck use a propane torch, better yet MAP gas, to heat around it but be careful cause you can melt your BJ boot if not replacing the BJ. I needed a clear picture of something and your high res video was great. Thank you. Nicely Done !
just did this last week. use a long prybar with a hammer and get in behind the cv axle and tap to get it to come loose from the snap ring. if the CV axle hasn't been removed and it's 11 yrs old as mine was a puller wouldn't remove it even with hammering and using wd 40 and like products. I eventually was hammering so hard that when reassembling the cv axle I found the axle was mushroomed. with the axle mushroomed I had to replace the wheel bearing due to the amount of hammering against the axle shaft to get the shaft removed. when you beat on the axle for a half hour the bearing takes a beating. a helpful quick way to remove the axle is remove the 2 strut mount bolts where they mount above the wheel bearing hub. rather quick swap out. another helpful hint is when removing the cv axle assembly use a jack and tilt the vehicle in the opposite direction which helps keep transmission fluid loss down. make sure to torque properly. if you have the police or taxi package vehicle the wheel hub nut has a washer. if you don't it's only the cv axle nut. always replace the nut when removing as they're not designed for repeated over and over use. Most replacement cv axles will come with a nut for torquing the cv axle to bearing upon installation. seals are made by various manufacturers so in turn there can be as many colors as there are manufacturers. I recently replaced the right side seal for the axle shaft and it was the same look as the one removed. When installing the seal if there are and minor nicks in the seal seating surface a light coating of black permatex rtv sealant will help seal and porous areas up between the seal and vehicle mating surface. Light coat of oil on seal surface as mentioned is recommended for initial sealing of cv axle to new seal.
from my perspective it appears that the sway bar tab may be cracked? Dorman makes a great replacement away bar beefed up compared to the oem. I always replace all bushings with Moog bushings and use antiseize on all metal to metal mating surfaces including the cv axle spline shaft to wheel bearing hub mating surfaces. always torque to factory specs when replacing parts.
Lol he uses a ratchet realizes he cant loosen it uses air tools haha not everyone has that
Thank you so much to this guy. Helped me tremendously. The only thing is when you start buy the wheel hub bolts in advance.lol. had to run to az . thanks so much for the pacing also. Too often it is necessary to rewind over and over
Your the bomb; I like how you take your time and brake it down dude
Omar Wilkerson injured
@K-TrainGarage Love'd everything about the video, especially the pauses, just more time to think about it all, appreciate you.💯🤝
I guess it's kind of off topic but does anyone know of a good site to stream newly released series online?
@Lachlan Derrick flixportal :P
@Gideon Finley Thanks, I went there and it seems like a nice service :D I really appreciate it!
@Lachlan Derrick you are welcome :D
Keep up the good work. You might want to use whiteout or something else to mark the strut or knuckle to allow you to reconnect the strut in to the same position. You could dip your finger into clean trans fluid and then wipe on to seal before installing. The inside surface of the knuckle will corrode and seize to the metal that houses the ABS to the bearing. Clean surface of knuckle and coat with anti-seize compound before installing new bearing. Also smear anti-seize on shaft splines.
Yes... I appreciate your taking the time to do this logically. DIYers don't need to rush so your vid is perfect.
Very well done. Very thorough
.
GM recommends to use special tool J-38868 to remove and replace the stub shaft. You should replace retaining clips on the stub shaft prior to installing on the axle. The papers are in the package.
behind the seal is FWD shaft bearing GM# 24203440, the inner ring in the case, don't grab it when removing the seal.
Excellent video my friend!!!! Thank you!!!
How long did the total repair take you? And can an amateur do it with little to no serious problems
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Great detail great info. Thanx for the vid I’ll subscribe now
Thanks for the video and it was helpful, the only thing is that the camera view wasn't the best
Omg, that seal took about an hour of BS and fiddling to get out. Seal puller wouldn't work. Grabbing the inner part of the seal with pliers and pulling wouldn't work. Ended up just using a flat head and hammering under the outer lip to smash the seal inward. Marred the outer face a little, but I think it'll be ok. In retrospect, I honestly can't think of any other way I could have gotten it out.
Got the new seal in w/ a modified 2x4 piece of wood. My plumbing couplers were a total bust, they wouldn't seat it in evenly when hammering it on. Anyway, no visible leaks (knock on wood) in spite of that slightly marred surface at the 3 o'clock area. All the friction that holds the seal in, is on the inner part of the ring anyway, not the outer face.
I never heard the axle "click" when it went on like everybody talks about, maybe it's really quiet or I oiled it really well w/ new fluid. But it was definitely on there, couldn't remove it by hand pulling.
I also replaced the control arm while I was in there doing stuff, only $75 anyway. Finished up the job w/ a new trans filter and a new Dorman trans pan w/ a drain bolt in it. Thanks for the video K-Train.
Hi. I just wanted to make sure I heard you correctly on the torque spec for Hub Nut. I heard 160 newton meter on the driver side and 130 newton meter for the passenger side. So it has different specs depends on which side you are torqueing?
repair manual says 160Nm / 118 ft-lbs for both front axle nuts on this car
@@KTrainGarage Thank you for the information. I saw a few UA-cam videos that people are torqueing at 159ft lb, but I heard that is for 7th gen Impala. A guy at the local garage told me 96ft lb yesterday. I am not sure how critical 96ft lb vs 118ft lb, but that's another reason to work on your own car.
On a 2000 impala ls ...right hand side is this the same procedure too use thru and thru??????
I thought there was something wrong with the video Conn. but it is the way you talk, in segment pauses......wow.
Hey great video, thanks for shooting this. I'm working on my '08 Grand Prix this weekend, same project. Where did you find that seal seater? I was going to go to Home Depot and try to find some fitting in the plumbing section that could work.
A metal reduction coupler from the hardware store works if you get one that is the same size as the outer lip.
The aluminum seal installer I am using in the video is Atec Trans Tools T-1208 from www.etoolcart.com/axlesealinstaller125.aspx - it is supposed to work with many GM transmissions such as 3T40, 3T40-E, 440-T4, F7, 4T60, 4T60-E, 4T65-E.
Alternatively, you can look for GM service tool J-34115
Hello Can you tell me the part number for the tool you used to press the axel seal in place? I cannot get mine to go in and cannot find the right tool
you mentioned drivers side as tighten to 160 and passenger side to 130. are they not to be tightend to the same?
Is this the same procedure for a 2006 Impala 3.9?
Awesome video. Thanks a lot.
Neil Williams it is similar but 2006 model year is the next generation of Impala so it will be a little different
K-Train did your car make a real bad grinding noise or roar when you made a sharp left turn or sharp right turn????
Looks like the rest of suspension needs addressed along with that broken sway bar
Cc’d axel hooks up to what
Should I be writing this down in the pauses?
Needs more then a CV axle
GM has a TSB that the wheel bearings should be torqued to 159ft lbs and AllData says 155ft lbs which is alot more than 159NM = appx 118 ft lbs under recommended GM torque specs.
Why didn't you use a cheater bar?
Awesome video. Thanks a lot.
i to went to the school of Talking...Like...Captain Kirk good video just took time to get though it
after installing cv axel and bearing now i hear slight grinding when turn sharp
you possibly bolted it on too tightly past 100 SQFP
Why are you in front of the camera?
You could move to the left so we can see what you are doing.
Still an awesome video.
What size is the axle nut
I just replaced the sway bar, bushings, tie rod ends, and control arm. Is the cv axle easier or harder
It's harder. Good tool to have is an axle puller to push the center out of the wheel bearing if the wheel bearing and axle have a lot of miles on them.
After freeing the axle from the wheel bearing, disassembly will be easiest if you disconnect the ball joint on the bottom and strut on the top of the wheel knuckle to get the clearance to free the axle from the transmission by prying with a lever or pull the shaft with a slide hammer. Remember a decent amount of transmission fluid will escape out the hole once you pull the shaft so have a catch pan under it.
Perfect👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍you should teach at a college. #FACTS
Swaybar is cracked and ready to break at the bushing.
thanks!
why are there such long pauses between each thing you say?
Don't need to take everything out 😮
this guy must have had a stroke because he pauses between his words for SOOOOOOOOO LOOOOOOOONNNG
dude i know i was getting so annoyed
Hi
You sound like Capt Kirk man, can you talk without pausing every other word. Makes it painful to watch the video almost like you are aren't sure what you're saying. Try writing it down and reading from a script and dub it over the actual scenes.
Talking slow I still don’t get it lol
holy long-winded description, just do the work without so much detail