Tools that I used in this video to change this wheel bearing: Astro Wheel Bearing Press Kit: amzn.to/3t2POLQ Side Hammer: amzn.to/3XPZd7Y Snap Ring Pliers: amzn.to/3t1Tvl6 My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
😂😂😂😂😂😂 YOUNG MAN THIS WAS THE BEST DESCRIPTION I'VE EVER SEEN IN MY ENTIRE LIFE THIS IS THE BEST JOB I'VE EVER SEEN OF ANYBODY LAID OUT HOW TO DO THIS. ..... I DON'T KNOW HOW MANY MORONS HAVE BEEN ON UA-cam WITH THEIR LET'S BE A CLOWN AND PRETEND LIKE WE KNOW WHAT WE'RE DOING CHANNEL AND I GOT NOWHERE... NOW THAT I'VE SEEN YOU DO THIS I HAVE THE CONFIDENCE IN MYSELF ENOUGH TO GO AND GET THAT TOOL SET AGAIN AND COME BACK AND DO MY CAR ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD ...... THANKS A LOT I APPRECIATE THAT
Great video, thank you very much. Question, did you leave the Ring that protects the speed sensor, or did you land that in when you removed the bearing. Also, will this process work on a 2010 ACURA TL?
This is by far the best instruction video on replacing a FWD front wheel bearing. I’m a Honda tech by trade, and I can say that every steps, tips, and cautions are all spot on. Only thing I might say is that by using the impact gun you may damage the threads on the tool prematurely, especially if it’s a cheaper quality installation tool.
I have the same tool and have used it countless times. I always put a little bit of gear oil on the threads of the bolt. Tool still works like brand new
The best wheel/hub bearing video ive seen yet. Very well explained. Clearly! Even a 6 year old could understand the steps. Now i just need to grab the press kit for myself instead of renting one whenever i come across this type of job. Thanks dude!
The best what, how, why, video on press in wheel bearing out there. There are too many videos on the subject that all they seem to be doing is showing off how well their impact wrench works without hardly any what and why. Thanks Repair Geek.
I finished doing my daughter's 2018 Buick. I bought the press tool although it was a different brand. I followed this video and everything worked great. I do not have an impact, but a cheater bar worked. A couple of things were different on this Buick. I had to take the tie rod loose. The snap ring was on the back side. After removing it, the bearing had to be pressed out the back and installed from the back. Was still able to do it on the car. I really appreciate this video. I probably would not have tried diy without it. There are a lot of videos on this subject, but this was the best.
Your so great at breaking things down. Doing a 2007 Honda Odyssey and don't think I could have done it without your video. As a family who needs our van back on the road, we thank you and pray your business is so blessed
I have used my dumb bells instead of that special tool to remove my rusty hub yesterday. Seeing that tool on UA-cam helped me to realize what I need when I was struggling and it worked out
Best video on the subject. Thank you, now I have the confidence to do it. Too many people on UA-cam assume everyone understands “specialty” tools, thank you for the explanation.
Absolutely awesome video. I feel like every other video pulls the hub and then just tells you to "put it on you hydraulic press". This was super detailed and perfect for the everyday DIYer that doesn't have multi thousand dollar tools. Thank you sir!
i like it.....i used to pull the whole knuckle off and lugged it over to the big press...if you have the right tool, your way works great...our problem many times is the snap ring is rusted solid into the knuckle or some other Northeast problem because of salt and rust...great job
This has been the best video I have found on how to do this. Mt car is similar to how this one was and made it so much simpler than what other videos are showing. Thank you
A Dremel is enough to put a cut into the race. It doesn't take much of a cut to get the tip of chisel in to crack it. I've done both. Next time I'll reach for my Dremel.
I just place a chisel between the race and the hub, go around hammering not too hard and the race starts to separate, i foumd no need to cut into the race
Finally found a video that they actually teach you how to use the tool everyone else I have seen would just talk and talk and talk and not get to the point
Thanks for showing all the steps necessary and giving a complete commentary on this..Other videos often miss out all the information needed to complete all the steps necessary and leave us guessing, I find.
Great video. Well explained and nice photography. On a comment, someone said put the new bearing in the freezer before installing to shrink it, goes in lots easier. Thanks for sharing.
Really thorough instruction of the tools and process. This vid will definitely help any DIYer get through the process with an understanding beforehand, which could otherwise be intimidating. Great job!
Just done it .. keep the bearing straight kinda tricky . I use hammer and old bearing to put then straight before using this tools.. it works perfectly . Thanks for the video
This is the best video by far that I have watched how to do this. Will 100% be replacing both parts just for easy of not heating or cutting. Thank you so much for this video!
I just did this on my wrx following this guide, the driver side front bearing was completely toast. I was originally going to take off knuckle, take it to a shop to get it pressed, then get an allignment after. Was able to do it for just the cost of the bearing itself. Thank you!
Great video! To remove the hub without a slide hammer I removed the control arm laid it on two 4x4's and knocked it out with a big socket and a hammer. It came out real easy.
I've also had great success with putting the bearing in the freezer overnight up until the very moment you will try and press it in. It seems to shrink it just enough for it to press in alot easier. Great video
Thank you so much for this video. After watching this I'm confident I can change mine rather than paying the dealership to do it or buying pre-pressed full knuckles. You so right, the bearing and new hub are quite inexpensive. I can get both for less than $100! And the pre-pressed full kuckle would have cost me $900 for both!
Wow!!! This is The BEST and most detailed instructional video on this procedure that I have found! I really don’t know how it could be any better. Certainly gives me some confidence in performing this on my Pilot. Thanks for such a Great Job! New Sub and Ringing da Bell😊👍👍
This is at least the 10th video that I am watching on this topic, in anticipation of having to replace the wheel bearings of my 08 Pilot. And this is by far the best description, including insights into the actual physics of pulling the bearing out. Thank you so much... While I am not sure which model of Honda your vehicle is, from appearance the knuckle assembly looks identical to mine. So, hopefully I can also remove the top two bolts attaching to the strut without affecting the wheel alignment...
Did you replace the bearing? I’m doing same on rear of my pilot. One option for the front is to replace entire knuckle assembly. It’s pricier but saves a lot of time. And I had to replace abs sensor as it was froze in old knuckle.
@@Merrill26osu It so turned out that the noise from my wheels were actually coming from the tires (got this confirmed with a mechanic as well). So I did not attempt this repair. And yes, the far easier solution for worn front wheel bearings might be to replace the knuckle assembly as a whole. However, this option did not seem available for rear wheels. The process also looked more complex than front wheels due to the parking brake assembly, and I was not able to locate any video instructions for rear wheels. How did you handle it?
@@Musiclover5258 Rear wheels at least on my Hondas are a piece of cake vs this. You just unbolt the wheel hub and bolt a new one on (the hub and bearing come as one unit)
@@Musiclover5258ahhh I was talking Accord. No drive wheels in rear so easy bolt on hub. I assume with AWD then you have axle nuts and press in bearings etc in the rear too is that right?
Superb video, the camerawork, narration and explanations and tips are spot on. Thank you for taking the time in producing this video and sharing your knowledge.
Wow, this was such a great video! I am going to work on this first thing in the morning. I was a little uneasy going into it, but this makes me feel a lot better about the situation.
Solid video. As for everyone saying to anti-seize, loctite, or lubricate the splines, this is actually incorrect. (I live in northern canada, I'm familiar with 8 months of snow and anything possible rust-welding together...) The tolerances, assuming you're using decent parts. are tight enough that what you apply will be almost entirely pushed out towards the hub as you tighten the axle nut. This can result in, depending on the design of the hub, you hydrostatically locking the fastener during clamping. Which will not only wildly skew torque readings, but also put immense pressure on your components and cause premature failure. Anyone who's ever torqued bolts in blind holes, such as engine blocks is likely familiar with the fact that even a tiny bit of oil between your fastener its clamped object can crack straight through solid metal while torqueing it down. This is the same principle, less likely to happen but still entirely possible. TLDR ; Fluids don't compress, and cause bad things to happen. Read the manufacturers installation procedure and only apply the specified lubricant if a wet torque is provided. Most vehicle manufacturers will even deny warranty payout to dealerships if there is evidence of a lubricated fastener where a wet torque is not provided. ALWAYS RTFM, if it seems odd then look for a service bulletin to confirm or deny it.
I always thought you needed to use the outside of the bearing to push it in, not the inside. I do them just like bushings, I would have used a larger plate to cover the entire bearing and push it in by the outer race, if you push it in using the inner race you can damage the bearings.
He did use the inner bearing to press in the hub. That is the correct way to install the hub as it does not put pressure on the bearings and keeps both halves of the inner race together. If you are pressing on just the outer race there is a good probability that the inner race opposite the hub will get pushed out of the bearing destroying it. *Depending on what kind of tool is used obviously.
Great video. I rented one of these from auto parts store and then bought one from Harbor freight later. It looked exactly like the one I rented. Worked great for about three or four bearings and then the threaded rod stripped out. I even tried to buy a new threaded rod and no one could help me. So make sure you buy one that you can get replacement parts.
Nailed it! I totally agree with Mike C. Best instruction video for replacing a FWD front wheel bearing (and without removing the steering knuckle). I never would have guessed that you can do this on the car. Thank you so much RG. Oh, and your sound & camera work are exceptional!!!
good day to you sir. The position of the CV axel hanging there, could you have pulled out the axel and replaced it? I do not know if the axel has enough room to slide completely out to be changed.
Awesome job explaining, I just finished my bearing job you are correct I'll need a new abs speed sensor and they are not cheap. Sure wish I had seen this video prior. I had chosen the Dorman complete knuckle assembly but after four weeks of waiting I changed the bearing and abs sensor.
Thank you! I have done these with no hub shark tool or vise, just bfh, some old bearing case, 2×4 (not ideal 😂)...but yours videos is the best, very detail!
First time I replaced front bearings I ended up taking the knuckles off as the slide hammer wasn't able to get the hub out of them and made a huge racket that my neighbors probably weren't too happy with as I work on the street. I got one hub out with a small sledgehammer pounding a large impact socket that I used as a drift, but the other one just wouldn't budge so I took it to a shop to be pressed out. I got the rest done using this Astro Pneumatic tool, which was pretty straightforward. I can verify that getting wheel speed sensors out of old and rusty knuckles is almost impossible to do without breaking them, because I tried this on a 30 year old car last year and broke both of the rear ones. Each costs around $350 so I now have to either do without and put up with that annoying ABS light (or just pull the fuse) and of course no ABS, shell out $700 for new ones, or try to jerry-rig ones out of the old sensor cables which are fine and a hall effect sensor (or whatever sensor they use) with the right voltage output and a rod that fits just right in the hole. I'm going to try the latter first. Also, you should grease or lube that forcing bolt before using this tool, to make things go easier and protect the threads. And, different cars have different pressed-in bearing setups, with some coming out the outboard side and some coming out the inboard side. It's basically wherever that snap ring goes. Btw snap rings are well-named because when you remove them they snap at you, so wear eye protection folks or put something solid in front of them when you remove them.
Many thanks for this instructional video! Succesfully changed the front bearings on my Land Rover Freelander 1 with the help of it. EDIT: Just remember to remove the circlips before trying to push out the bearing :D And fit new ones after installing the new bearing.
Excellent video!! I was contemplating taking my new hub and bearing to a shop to get it pressed. But I think I'll buy a bearing press kit and slide hammer.
Really clearly described technique for someone that hasn't done this before. Two things I would add, grease the thread on the bearing tool, there is alot of force being applied there, lubrication will prevent wear and damage. Wear eye protection, it only takes one metal splinter to spoil your day, or possibly even your life.
Awesome. Very detailed and easy explanation of the process. I am replacing both front bearings on my Mitsubishi Outlander. I bought also the hubs. Going to be easier to replace both bearings and hubs. Thank you very much.
Very nice presentation. I do personally enjoy watching your videos. You explain everything for the correct install. And you give secert tricks along the way. So thanks buddy 😎
From Scotland. The snap ring is usually rusted up so bad that its almost rusted away, I find that welding washer or bit of steel to it , then use a slid hammer with vice grips, will shift it. It's all down hill from then. Good demo, by the way.
Excellent video my friend appreciate the tips especially the speed sensor. Just got a set of Timkins for my Civic and going to give a try. Last set I did I removed the knuckles and had a shop press out. Got the kit and giving this a go.
Auto tech here with something to add for the people. If you want your press tool to have any longevity, the forcing screw should be greased, which will also make it press easier. Additionally, I'd suggest separating at the ball joint instead to get the cv shaft out. Even if the strut bolts aren't where the alignment is adjusted, it can still affect the alignment somewhat if removed, whereas separating the ball joint will have no effect. Otherwise, this is a perfect rundown of how it's done.
Great video. I would recommend wiping the camera lens with isopropanol or other fluid that can remove grease without damaging the lens itself. The blurry image suggests that you have a thin oil surface on your camera lens surface.
thank you for this video. i watched a number of them and this is one of the best. I only wonder when pressing out the old bearing why you select a disc that press to the inner of the bearing? would it not give more power to use a disc that is just a bit smaller than the bearing so it press on the outside? or is there some advantage?
Very informative and the most practical manner to change the bearings, but for corollas, I think the bolts on the swing arm need to be remove for more space and pull the pallier
Fantastic explanation. I’ve changed the rear wheel bearings before, no problem. But the front is a different animal. Going to this wheel bearing puller, so thanks for the insight
I never waste time hitting the like button. But your video made this job so much less stressful that I hit it for you. Thank you for making it! I'm almost done with my bearing job.
Nice to see it done properly, most end up pushing on the inner to get the outer diameter and vice versa, damaging the bearin by apply massive static side loads!
I am going to be trying to do my 2012 civic exl and 2019 HRV from bearings. Question. Should bearings still be put in freezer over night? And should I apply grease to outer part of bearing before installing? I have the same tools you used in video so I think from your amazing footage I can do this. Thank you
Dude, I love your personality and common sense. You just got a subscriber and a like, and I rang the bell for all notifications. Thank you so much for this!
Great video….on the taking the two strut bolts lose (alignment bolts or stock non adjustable bolts), I would before you do any work, while the car still can be driven, pull up to a relatively flat surface close and convenient to where you make your repair, and pull up and park with your wheels as straight forward as possible. Get out of the car, and mark the road with chalk, where your tire stopped (the contact patch and direction to give reference after repair). I would also mark the top of your tire to take in wheel runout to your next measurement(could also mark in paint, the tire, wheel, and hub together for more accuracy). Next using either a digital angle meter (preferred) or a level large enough to span the sidewall of the tire, take a measurement of the vertical centerline of the tire wheel and hub. Changing those strut alignment bolts primarily change the camber (left right tilt of top of wheel) so duplicating this angle after disrupting those bolts, to before the work started, if the car was in reasonable alignment should get you back in the ballpark or confirm any marking of the strut pinch point before disassembling is accurate. You could for an extra measure, also take an angle reading of your opposite front wheel to determine how close both angles are. They make a small square digital angle gauge pretty cheap, that used in conjunction with a level or accurate straight edge can measure angles accurately. If you don’t want to spring for that, a bubble level, and a tape measure can be used. Word of note, if your worn bearing has play, this must be factored in. That’s why taking the angle of the other wheel, helps if the car was in reasonable alignment before starting. So now after you make repairs, you drive car back to the spot you created, and getting the wheel/tire (and car) to stop in as close to where you took measurements before, including getting tire wheel reference to the top. Take your angle measurements again, write them down, if they match, your done. If not, calculate the difference between before repair and after, then you’ll need to jack the car up just high enough to free front wheel, on that side. Take another angle measurement and then loosen the alignment bolts on the strut, and move the eccentric bolt to correct for the difference of your two initial readings. Tighten bolts, drop the car off the jack, and this is important, drive the car…..then remeasure your angle again at the same spot with all things being equal. If your camber angle is the same as when you started congrats, if not repeat. If you did this correct, you should be good, if you doubt, a trip to the alignment shop might be in order. Lastly alignment specs are usually done in degrees, or rather fractions of a degree. For reference, a circle with a radius of 57.3 inches (diameter of 114.6), one degree of angle taken from the center of said circle, will move one inch at the circumference, so for example, if a spec calls for and 1/8 of a degree, the deflection will be 1/8 of an inch at 57.3 inches from the center of the circle. So tiny measurements closer to that circles center make a difference. Luckily specs usually have a range, and camber is more forgiving then toe or caster, the latter being in newer cars not adjustable. Camber however changes toe, so getting it as accurate as possible is best!
Great video thanks man. Good tips and pointers!! I am getting ready to do this on my daughters' 2005 Accord and was a little worried as I do not have a press. Problem solved! SUBSCRIBED
Should there be a gap between the magnetic ABS ring and the inner lip of the steering knuckle? Or should the magnetic ABS ring be pressed all the way until it's touching that inner lip?
Wonderful Video, Great Photography Good Tips and Options, Complete Explanation of Tool Set up. Detailed Descriptions of Work and what needed to Happen. Attention to Every Detail, as they say In New England, "The Finest Kind" ~♡~ Thank You for the Time You Took to make this Presentation...
Hello, by separating the shock from the hub the wheels should be aligned again. Maybe better to disconnect the balljoint. Please correct me if im wrong. Regards
That wouldn't work in cars with bearings that are pressed into the knuckle before the hub is pressed into the bearing, which is how a lot of cars work.
@@HabaneroTi On my Accord they literally were selling the whole brand new knuckle for $150 - new knuckle, has bearing and hub already installed, etc. It's crazy. Only question I had was the quality of the bearing they use vs an OEM Honda bearing that you press in like in this video
Tools that I used in this video to change this wheel bearing:
Astro Wheel Bearing Press Kit: amzn.to/3t2POLQ
Side Hammer: amzn.to/3XPZd7Y
Snap Ring Pliers: amzn.to/3t1Tvl6
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
😂😂😂😂😂😂
YOUNG MAN THIS WAS THE BEST DESCRIPTION I'VE EVER SEEN IN MY ENTIRE LIFE THIS IS THE BEST JOB I'VE EVER SEEN OF ANYBODY LAID OUT HOW TO DO THIS. .....
I DON'T KNOW HOW MANY MORONS HAVE BEEN ON UA-cam WITH THEIR LET'S BE A CLOWN AND PRETEND LIKE WE KNOW WHAT WE'RE DOING CHANNEL AND I GOT NOWHERE...
NOW THAT I'VE SEEN YOU DO THIS I HAVE THE CONFIDENCE IN MYSELF ENOUGH TO GO AND GET THAT TOOL SET AGAIN AND COME BACK AND DO MY CAR ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD ......
THANKS A LOT I APPRECIATE THAT
God bless you in return thank you for your honesty thank you for sharing
Hey mate! You always replace the hub assembly it’s cheap and makes a great repair!
Great video, thank you very much. Question, did you leave the Ring that protects the speed sensor, or did you land that in when you removed the bearing. Also, will this process work on a 2010 ACURA TL?
U don't press against the middle it will ruin the bearing
This man was thorough and explained everything in exact direction. This is by far one of the best instructional I've watched.
Yes it was very clear and well shot!
I second that. Very well explained. Couldn’t find it specific to my vehicle, but this is so clear I don’t need it anymore.
I agree 👌🏼
This is by far the best instruction video on replacing a FWD front wheel bearing. I’m a Honda tech by trade, and I can say that every steps, tips, and cautions are all spot on. Only thing I might say is that by using the impact gun you may damage the threads on the tool prematurely, especially if it’s a cheaper quality installation tool.
I have the same tool and have used it countless times. I always put a little bit of gear oil on the threads of the bolt. Tool still works like brand new
Yes, grease or oil the threads to protect them. No anti-seize!
I totally agree, great job in the instructions
Dose it make a difference on which direction you press out/in the bearing?
@@TheOminousVoidWispersonly can be pressed in one way
The best wheel/hub bearing video ive seen yet. Very well explained. Clearly! Even a 6 year old could understand the steps. Now i just need to grab the press kit for myself instead of renting one whenever i come across this type of job. Thanks dude!
You made this so easy. I’ve never done it before and finished it in under 3 hours. Thank you!
The best what, how, why, video on press in wheel bearing out there. There are too many videos on the subject that all they seem to be doing is showing off how well their impact wrench works without hardly any what and why. Thanks Repair Geek.
I finished doing my daughter's 2018 Buick. I bought the press tool although it was a different brand. I followed this video and everything worked great. I do not have an impact, but a cheater bar worked.
A couple of things were different on this Buick. I had to take the tie rod loose. The snap ring was on the back side. After removing it, the bearing had to be pressed out the back and installed from the back. Was still able to do it on the car.
I really appreciate this video. I probably would not have tried diy without it. There are a lot of videos on this subject, but this was the best.
I've watched a lot of repair videos for different repairs and this guy is good. Thank you so much for this video. So well explained.
Your so great at breaking things down. Doing a 2007 Honda Odyssey and don't think I could have done it without your video. As a family who needs our van back on the road, we thank you and pray your business is so blessed
Best wheel bearing install video I’ve seen. Great job.
I have used my dumb bells instead of that special tool to remove my rusty hub yesterday. Seeing that tool on UA-cam helped me to realize what I need when I was struggling and it worked out
Great video! Straight to the point without any unnecessary babbling, annoying music etc.
The amount of detail on how much you took to thoroughly explain the process was great thank you so much!
Best video on the subject. Thank you, now I have the confidence to do it. Too many people on UA-cam assume everyone understands “specialty” tools, thank you for the explanation.
Nice job from A toZ. Good to show tools needed at the start. Most don’t. Also running the dry fit to the axle PRIOR to starting the job is a HUGE tip.
Absolutely awesome video. I feel like every other video pulls the hub and then just tells you to "put it on you hydraulic press". This was super detailed and perfect for the everyday DIYer that doesn't have multi thousand dollar tools. Thank you sir!
i like it.....i used to pull the whole knuckle off and lugged it over to the big press...if you have the right tool, your way works great...our problem many times is the snap ring is rusted solid into the knuckle or some other Northeast problem because of salt and rust...great job
This has been the best video I have found on how to do this. Mt car is similar to how this one was and made it so much simpler than what other videos are showing. Thank you
A Dremel is enough to put a cut into the race. It doesn't take much of a cut to get the tip of chisel in to crack it. I've done both. Next time I'll reach for my Dremel.
I just place a chisel between the race and the hub, go around hammering not too hard and the race starts to separate, i foumd no need to cut into the race
Place hub on pickle fork and heat race with torch race will fall off when it expanded from heat
Finally found a video that they actually teach you how to use the tool everyone else I have seen would just talk and talk and talk and not get to the point
Thanks for showing all the steps necessary and giving a complete commentary on this..Other videos often miss out all the information needed to complete all the steps necessary and leave us guessing, I find.
The best detailed info on replacing a wheel bearing. Thank you! ( Especially the part of making sure the hub fits on cv axel spline)
Great video. Well explained and nice photography. On a comment, someone said put the new bearing in the freezer before installing to shrink it, goes in lots easier. Thanks for sharing.
Really thorough instruction of the tools and process. This vid will definitely help any DIYer get through the process with an understanding beforehand, which could otherwise be intimidating. Great job!
Just done it .. keep the bearing straight kinda tricky . I use hammer and old bearing to put then straight before using this tools.. it works perfectly . Thanks for the video
This is the best video by far that I have watched how to do this. Will 100% be replacing both parts just for easy of not heating or cutting. Thank you so much for this video!
Best video on this I have seen yet! Thank you very much!
I just did this on my wrx following this guide, the driver side front bearing was completely toast. I was originally going to take off knuckle, take it to a shop to get it pressed, then get an allignment after.
Was able to do it for just the cost of the bearing itself. Thank you!
Great video! To remove the hub without a slide hammer I removed the control arm laid it on two 4x4's and knocked it out with a big socket and a hammer. It came out real easy.
I've also had great success with putting the bearing in the freezer overnight up until the very moment you will try and press it in. It seems to shrink it just enough for it to press in alot easier. Great video
Thank you, fixed it first go around. Saved me a small fortune. Excellent instructions and advice.
Thank you so much for this video. After watching this I'm confident I can change mine rather than paying the dealership to do it or buying pre-pressed full knuckles. You so right, the bearing and new hub are quite inexpensive. I can get both for less than $100! And the pre-pressed full kuckle would have cost me $900 for both!
Wow!!! This is The BEST and most detailed instructional video on this procedure that I have found! I really don’t know how it could be any better. Certainly gives me some confidence in performing this on my Pilot. Thanks for such a Great Job! New Sub and Ringing da Bell😊👍👍
This is at least the 10th video that I am watching on this topic, in anticipation of having to replace the wheel bearings of my 08 Pilot. And this is by far the best description, including insights into the actual physics of pulling the bearing out. Thank you so much... While I am not sure which model of Honda your vehicle is, from appearance the knuckle assembly looks identical to mine. So, hopefully I can also remove the top two bolts attaching to the strut without affecting the wheel alignment...
Did you replace the bearing? I’m doing same on rear of my pilot. One option for the front is to replace entire knuckle assembly. It’s pricier but saves a lot of time. And I had to replace abs sensor as it was froze in old knuckle.
@@Merrill26osu It so turned out that the noise from my wheels were actually coming from the tires (got this confirmed with a mechanic as well). So I did not attempt this repair. And yes, the far easier solution for worn front wheel bearings might be to replace the knuckle assembly as a whole. However, this option did not seem available for rear wheels. The process also looked more complex than front wheels due to the parking brake assembly, and I was not able to locate any video instructions for rear wheels. How did you handle it?
@@Musiclover5258 Rear wheels at least on my Hondas are a piece of cake vs this. You just unbolt the wheel hub and bolt a new one on (the hub and bearing come as one unit)
@@JCO847 I am assuming yours is 2009 model or later? For Honda Pilot 2008 and earlier, it is unfortunately the more complicated route 😞
@@Musiclover5258ahhh I was talking Accord. No drive wheels in rear so easy bolt on hub. I assume with AWD then you have axle nuts and press in bearings etc in the rear too is that right?
Superb video, the camerawork, narration and explanations and tips are spot on. Thank you for taking the time in producing this video and sharing your knowledge.
Thank you so much. You were the only one who made such a detailed video i could find on here.
Wow, this was such a great video! I am going to work on this first thing in the morning. I was a little uneasy going into it, but this makes me feel a lot better about the situation.
Solid video. As for everyone saying to anti-seize, loctite, or lubricate the splines, this is actually incorrect. (I live in northern canada, I'm familiar with 8 months of snow and anything possible rust-welding together...) The tolerances, assuming you're using decent parts. are tight enough that what you apply will be almost entirely pushed out towards the hub as you tighten the axle nut. This can result in, depending on the design of the hub, you hydrostatically locking the fastener during clamping. Which will not only wildly skew torque readings, but also put immense pressure on your components and cause premature failure. Anyone who's ever torqued bolts in blind holes, such as engine blocks is likely familiar with the fact that even a tiny bit of oil between your fastener its clamped object can crack straight through solid metal while torqueing it down. This is the same principle, less likely to happen but still entirely possible.
TLDR ; Fluids don't compress, and cause bad things to happen. Read the manufacturers installation procedure and only apply the specified lubricant if a wet torque is provided. Most vehicle manufacturers will even deny warranty payout to dealerships if there is evidence of a lubricated fastener where a wet torque is not provided. ALWAYS RTFM, if it seems odd then look for a service bulletin to confirm or deny it.
Highly detailed instructions absolute THE BEST
I always thought you needed to use the outside of the bearing to push it in, not the inside. I do them just like bushings, I would have used a larger plate to cover the entire bearing and push it in by the outer race, if you push it in using the inner race you can damage the bearings.
If you watch going in he pushed on the outside!
He did use the inner bearing to press in the hub. That is the correct way to install the hub as it does not put pressure on the bearings and keeps both halves of the inner race together. If you are pressing on just the outer race there is a good probability that the inner race opposite the hub will get pushed out of the bearing destroying it. *Depending on what kind of tool is used obviously.
The inside bearing is supported with this tool configuration so no damage is done
FFS lads it has nothing to do with the inside or the outside in situation X or Y. Just dont crush the balls. Easy.
By far , the right tool makes the J.O.B that much easier Great video thanks
One of the best diy I have seen! Thank you
Great video. I rented one of these from auto parts store and then bought one from Harbor freight later. It looked exactly like the one I rented. Worked great for about three or four bearings and then the threaded rod stripped out. I even tried to buy a new threaded rod and no one could help me. So make sure you buy one that you can get replacement parts.
Nailed it! I totally agree with Mike C. Best instruction video for replacing a FWD front wheel bearing (and without removing the steering knuckle). I never would have guessed that you can do this on the car. Thank you so much RG. Oh, and your sound & camera work are exceptional!!!
Yes they are- Extreme Professionals on this channel and it’s Greatly Appreciated 👍👍
You forgot rear drive hub bearings too on AWD vehicles
good day to you sir. The position of the CV axel hanging there, could you have pulled out the axel and replaced it? I do not know if the axel has enough room to slide completely out to be changed.
Thank you Thank you Thank you!! This is without a doubt the best instructional video I could find on this topic.
My dude is a hero!
If you're not an instructor you need to be. Great job. Show and tell is everything.
Awesome job explaining, I just finished my bearing job you are correct I'll need a new abs speed sensor and they are not cheap. Sure wish I had seen this video prior. I had chosen the Dorman complete knuckle assembly but after four weeks of waiting I changed the bearing and abs sensor.
Nice..did mine . After assembly wheel wouldnt turn. When I torqued the axle Nut everything worked smothly?? 1999Toyota Corolla. ??
140 pds of PURE GENIUS 💪💯💪💯💪💯💪 Please keep the DIY videos coming
Thank you! I have done these with no hub shark tool or vise, just bfh, some old bearing case, 2×4 (not ideal 😂)...but yours videos is the best, very detail!
First time I replaced front bearings I ended up taking the knuckles off as the slide hammer wasn't able to get the hub out of them and made a huge racket that my neighbors probably weren't too happy with as I work on the street.
I got one hub out with a small sledgehammer pounding a large impact socket that I used as a drift, but the other one just wouldn't budge so I took it to a shop to be pressed out. I got the rest done using this Astro Pneumatic tool, which was pretty straightforward.
I can verify that getting wheel speed sensors out of old and rusty knuckles is almost impossible to do without breaking them, because I tried this on a 30 year old car last year and broke both of the rear ones. Each costs around $350 so I now have to either do without and put up with that annoying ABS light (or just pull the fuse) and of course no ABS, shell out $700 for new ones, or try to jerry-rig ones out of the old sensor cables which are fine and a hall effect sensor (or whatever sensor they use) with the right voltage output and a rod that fits just right in the hole. I'm going to try the latter first.
Also, you should grease or lube that forcing bolt before using this tool, to make things go easier and protect the threads.
And, different cars have different pressed-in bearing setups, with some coming out the outboard side and some coming out the inboard side. It's basically wherever that snap ring goes.
Btw snap rings are well-named because when you remove them they snap at you, so wear eye protection folks or put something solid in front of them when you remove them.
Many thanks for this instructional video! Succesfully changed the front bearings on my Land Rover Freelander 1 with the help of it. EDIT: Just remember to remove the circlips before trying to push out the bearing :D And fit new ones after installing the new bearing.
Faultless video and content. Well done!!, enjoyable and informative.
Excellent execution! Explained clearly and calm
Well done....
Excellent video!! I was contemplating taking my new hub and bearing to a shop to get it pressed. But I think I'll buy a bearing press kit and slide hammer.
Thank you so much for this tutorial. Just changed the bearings on a 2010 Mercedes B200 and this tutorial helped tremendously.
Really clearly described technique for someone that hasn't done this before. Two things I would add, grease the thread on the bearing tool, there is alot of force being applied there, lubrication will prevent wear and damage. Wear eye protection, it only takes one metal splinter to spoil your day, or possibly even your life.
Awesome. Very detailed and easy explanation of the process. I am replacing both front bearings on my Mitsubishi Outlander. I bought also the hubs. Going to be easier to replace both bearings and hubs.
Thank you very much.
Very nice presentation. I do personally enjoy watching your videos. You explain everything for the correct install. And you give secert tricks along the way. So thanks buddy 😎
From Scotland. The snap ring is usually rusted up so bad that its almost rusted away, I find that welding washer or bit of steel to it , then use a slid hammer with vice grips, will shift it. It's all down hill from then. Good demo, by the way.
Wire wheel to clean out the snap ring groove. Assemble using a very light oil. Nice video.
This was so helpful, I'm gonna have to rent the pullers and a slide hammer
Excellent video my friend appreciate the tips especially the speed sensor. Just got a set of Timkins for my Civic and going to give a try. Last set I did I removed the knuckles and had a shop press out. Got the kit and giving this a go.
Auto tech here with something to add for the people. If you want your press tool to have any longevity, the forcing screw should be greased, which will also make it press easier. Additionally, I'd suggest separating at the ball joint instead to get the cv shaft out. Even if the strut bolts aren't where the alignment is adjusted, it can still affect the alignment somewhat if removed, whereas separating the ball joint will have no effect. Otherwise, this is a perfect rundown of how it's done.
Outstanding explanation. Detailed and didn't seem long and boring.
Great video. I would recommend wiping the camera lens with isopropanol or other fluid that can remove grease without damaging the lens itself. The blurry image suggests that you have a thin oil surface on your camera lens surface.
I prefer your wheel bearing replacement its straight forward an easy to repair.all good thanks for the information
Great video, you explained most important info. I needed because I don't own a press, thanks very much!
thank you for this video. i watched a number of them and this is one of the best. I only wonder when pressing out the old bearing why you select a disc that press to the inner of the bearing? would it not give more power to use a disc that is just a bit smaller than the bearing so it press on the outside? or is there some advantage?
That's what I was thinking. I think the bearings will be damaged if the bearing is pressed into the hub with pressure on the inner ring.
Good Video. Quick, simple and accurate. Thank you
What if the special tool I got didn’t come with a cup for the bearing to drop in can I still do the job.
This demonstration was very understandable! Thank you very much. 😊
Excellent video the best so far. it cleared a few doubt I had about this project
Thank God to the whole hub assembly replacement on modern vehicles nowadays.
Do you mean a pre-built new knuckle that has everything done already?
Very informative and the most practical manner to change the bearings, but for corollas, I think the bolts on the swing arm need to be remove for more space and pull the pallier
I have this tool. Never use impact gun but now i got to do it. Locks so easy.
Fantastic explanation. I’ve changed the rear wheel bearings before, no problem. But the front is a different animal. Going to this wheel bearing puller, so thanks for the insight
I never waste time hitting the like button. But your video made this job so much less stressful that I hit it for you. Thank you for making it! I'm almost done with my bearing job.
Nice to see it done properly, most end up pushing on the inner to get the outer diameter and vice versa, damaging the bearin by apply massive static side loads!
Thank you for the great video. Exactly what I needed for my Acura.
Straight up man that was such a legit video.
Have an Audi Q7 and need to replace front bearing, good video man..
Thank you for a very thorough explanation of the job. Will be using your instruction when I do my front bearings.
Awesome video man!, Very clear and easy to understand. Thanks!
Nice seeing one so young doing these videos
I am going to be trying to do my 2012 civic exl and 2019 HRV from bearings. Question. Should bearings still be put in freezer over night? And should I apply grease to outer part of bearing before installing?
I have the same tools you used in video so I think from your amazing footage I can do this.
Thank you
Dude, I love your personality and common sense. You just got a subscriber and a like, and I rang the bell for all notifications. Thank you so much for this!
As a DIY'er thank yiu very much. Makes perfect sense in 20/20 hindsight
Great video….on the taking the two strut bolts lose (alignment bolts or stock non adjustable bolts), I would before you do any work, while the car still can be driven, pull up to a relatively flat surface close and convenient to where you make your repair, and pull up and park with your wheels as straight forward as possible. Get out of the car, and mark the road with chalk, where your tire stopped (the contact patch and direction to give reference after repair). I would also mark the top of your tire to take in wheel runout to your next measurement(could also mark in paint, the tire, wheel, and hub together for more accuracy).
Next using either a digital angle meter (preferred) or a level large enough to span the sidewall of the tire, take a measurement of the vertical centerline of the tire wheel and hub. Changing those strut alignment bolts primarily change the camber (left right tilt of top of wheel) so duplicating this angle after disrupting those bolts, to before the work started, if the car was in reasonable alignment should get you back in the ballpark or confirm any marking of the strut pinch point before disassembling is accurate. You could for an extra measure, also take an angle reading of your opposite front wheel to determine how close both angles are. They make a small square digital angle gauge pretty cheap, that used in conjunction with a level or accurate straight edge can measure angles accurately. If you don’t want to spring for that, a bubble level, and a tape measure can be used. Word of note, if your worn bearing has play, this must be factored in. That’s why taking the angle of the other wheel, helps if the car was in reasonable alignment before starting. So now after you make repairs, you drive car back to the spot you created, and getting the wheel/tire (and car) to stop in as close to where you took measurements before, including getting tire wheel reference to the top. Take your angle measurements again, write them down, if they match, your done. If not, calculate the difference between before repair and after, then you’ll need to jack the car up just high enough to free front wheel, on that side. Take another angle measurement and then loosen the alignment bolts on the strut, and move the eccentric bolt to correct for the difference of your two initial readings. Tighten bolts, drop the car off the jack, and this is important, drive the car…..then remeasure your angle again at the same spot with all things being equal. If your camber angle is the same as when you started congrats, if not repeat. If you did this correct, you should be good, if you doubt, a trip to the alignment shop might be in order.
Lastly alignment specs are usually done in degrees, or rather fractions of a degree. For reference, a circle with a radius of 57.3 inches (diameter of 114.6), one degree of angle taken from the center of said circle, will move one inch at the circumference, so for example, if a spec calls for and 1/8 of a degree, the deflection will be 1/8 of an inch at 57.3 inches from the center of the circle. So tiny measurements closer to that circles center make a difference. Luckily specs usually have a range, and camber is more forgiving then toe or caster, the latter being in newer cars not adjustable. Camber however changes toe, so getting it as accurate as possible is best!
Great video thanks man. Good tips and pointers!! I am getting ready to do this on my daughters' 2005 Accord and was a little worried as I do not have a press. Problem solved! SUBSCRIBED
Should there be a gap between the magnetic ABS ring and the inner lip of the steering knuckle? Or should the magnetic ABS ring be pressed all the way until it's touching that inner lip?
Wonderful Video,
Great Photography
Good Tips and
Options,
Complete Explanation
of Tool Set up.
Detailed Descriptions
of Work and what needed to Happen.
Attention to Every
Detail, as they say
In New England,
"The Finest Kind" ~♡~
Thank You for the
Time You Took to make this Presentation...
VERY thorough and informative. Good video.
You did a hell of a video instruction piece by piece the best video say hi from Puerto Rico
Best viewing iv seen yet. Good description well explained thank you
Best video by far pertaining to this topic!
Loved the video. Bought $179 kit. And … would remove the old bearing
Hello, by separating the shock from the hub the wheels should be aligned again. Maybe better to disconnect the balljoint. Please correct me if im wrong. Regards
Nice video and Bering removal , but a lot easier , cheaper & better to get a hub with the wheel-bearing already pressed in .
That wouldn't work in cars with bearings that are pressed into the knuckle before the hub is pressed into the bearing, which is how a lot of cars work.
@@HabaneroTi On my Accord they literally were selling the whole brand new knuckle for $150 - new knuckle, has bearing and hub already installed, etc. It's crazy. Only question I had was the quality of the bearing they use vs an OEM Honda bearing that you press in like in this video