Removing a stuck CV axle from the hub - Seized - IT'S OUT! - 80yr old tool for the win!
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- Опубліковано 5 лют 2021
- In this video, I show you the different methods I took to remove a seized CV axle from the hub on a front wheel drive (FWD) vehicle. The axle was stuck badly and it took a lot of patience, heat and pressure to finally get it out. I tried a few methods, but yielded no results. I finally stopped hitting it with my purse, and just went all out on it. Turns out old ways are often times the best ways. We used an 80 year old jaw puller tool to finally press the axle out!
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#stuckaxle #removal #thedaninator - Авто та транспорт
Finally! A guy that shows how it REALLY goes, rather than all those “perfect” scenarios we see.
exactly. "just remove the nut and pull the axle out". Well if it really went that smooth, I wouldn't have to look it up on google/youtube, don't you think?
it really goes if youre retarded or don't know what youre doing. 😂 a 5 minute job if you know what youre doing
@@fuckingpippaman wut?
Shit you ain’t never lied.. this is the reality of the repair 😂
UA-cam🤡 could of cut with the torch a long time ago🤷🏾
During my 14 years as a mechanic I had so many situations like these when you could cry from frustration, how the simplest jobs could become nightmares. Not really missing the trade, even though I liked doing it.
Nothing to be nightmares of. If you still have "time"
Lol i got my diploma as an automotive but did some jobs n hated how simple jobs would b a btch to do n took way longer if something went wrong so i never went it to the field but i do my own work on some stuff n w the right tools n videos that are helpful its not so bad to work on stuff here and there n save money. I finally ordered my Milwaukee m18 1/2 mid torque n i have my ball joints to do n cant wait to use my new tool
@@MrX-qo5wb i'm almost out of high school at 17 debating what path to take. I love cars, I have a lot of knowledge but I must agree. There are little things that really degrade you, make you work like a dog and make you really impatient. Those things are keeping me from the field
@@brandondonovan8402 Be prepared to spend a lot on tools. Having the best tool for the job is extremely expensive.
@@dirtnapz996 but you'll make that money back in the time you'll save. Sucks buying all these specialty tools but you're unbelievable thankful for them when you need them
This video was all the justification I needed to convince the wife I needed to buy a 30 ton press for my shop! Lol
"If only I had a press" as he works on a 5-figure skid loader...
I was lucky enough to have access to a big press and it worked like a charm. Nice loud bang lol but she let go.
TIP:
BEFORE starting to remove the tire, LOOSEN the 30mm - 34mm locknut on the axle , take vehicle to safe location (like big parking lot) and run the vehicle in a few figure 8 patterns. Return to shop and remove locknut with air tool. Works great for removing stuck brake rotors too!
Great idea! ..what do you think about a stuck front wheel bearing..using a big pipe wrench. .AND a big cheater pipe on the wrench?
Yes!! This technique is what we used to get a stubborn wire wheel to release from the splined hub. Even the greased hubs could be stubborn! Great idea!!👍👍👌
Old mechanic showed me this one on stubborn axles worked everytime lol!!!
Gracias ! Ya me la savia Lol😂
well yeah that would work cuz you are exerting more than 30% of the cars weight into the wheel, nice tip
First of all, heat expands steel. You were heating the axel not the housing, which means you were making things worse. Heat (evenly) the outside of the housing with the puller on so when it gets hot enough (before the heat gets into the axel), then you tighten the puller with a impact or socket on a ratchet. Also you should have used the acetylene torch first. My opinion.
You are spot on!
Indeed! Axle puller will resolve the problem
On the other hand though, heat can also break the rust crystals loose.
Heating is not about expanding/contracting it is for cracking the rust.
That's what happens when you're picking your nose instead of listening on school physics classes
After all that, bought all new parts, immediately ends video. Hahaha I like your style and comedic timing.
It was never about re using the old part, it was about not letting it win
@@Livnlikelarry Oh but it did win
The knuckle was not new.
Thanks for keeping it real. It gets frustrating when you see “DIY” videos that always seem to work out perfect.
Full time mechanic here, had the same thing a few weeks back. Was probably even more more stuck than yours, like you ended up destroying most of the parts, but that’s just how it goes sometimes. 😄
If it got to that point they probably needed to be replaced anyways.
The trick is to leave the puller on under tension constantly...use penetrating fluid and hit it once in a while. When it's this stuck you can't be in a hurry.
“Can’t be stuck if it’s liquid.” 😂😂
That’s the very last level. You start with 5 other level and work your way to it and the one after makes 6. You have 7 levels of that crap.
You beat me to it
He riveted it on
You haters and ‘experts’ are ridiculous. Been at this 30 years and ‘the perfect tool’ is what you used . . . Perseverance. I commend you. What works for one job doesn’t necessarily work on the next one. Thank you for sharing. It makes us all better
Thank you. I'm relieved to know that I'm not the only person struggling with this. I was afraid that I was doing something wrong, but now I know that sometimes it's just stuck.
Same here - right in the middle of the nightmare. I’m thinking to cut my losses and just replace the hub. Yank the shaft and hub out like he did and just bin it.
This One time I had the same issue. I left force on the axle in the press with lube. About 1 in the morning I heard a loud pop. My wife thought it was a gun shot. Crazy how much force it takes and how rust bonds like weld.
It's no joke! Lol
Same
I had the same thing happen to me unintentionally. Gave up for the night, left the 2 jaw puller on it, came out in the morning and the puller was laying on the floor and the axle was broke free. It's crazy how constant force over time can do that.
@@stepheno9569 i'm no engineer but i don't think it's the pressure and time. i think it might have to do with ambient temperatures, all that pressure and then the temperature fluctuates hot/cold from the day, the same way screws will back themselves out of a deck from heat contraction and expansion
Si eso yo hago en mi work place lo pongo en la presa y me pongo a trabajar en otra cosa and then bang !
had that happen to me awhile back, I tried for an hour to get it free, then just went to the wreckers and got another spindle and axle for $80
I particularly love the saving money aspect of such dyi projects xD
What an incredible (and educational) piece of misery. Amazing that the jaws on the puller didn't break. Thank you so much....yeah i've been there and done that as well.
Hub puller + heat and a little friendly hammer action combined will get it loose. And another tip, put the cv axle nut back on tull flush with the top threads before hitting... this way the axles threads dont get messed up.
Yes. Tighten the puller as much as it will reasonably go, smack the end of the puller screw, this allows it to be tightened further, smack the end again, and so on - or off, actually.
Use 2 axle nuts so it locks the nut in place and hit it with a real sledgehammer. Plus you know your replacing that hub sometimes they pop out easier by hitting the hub assembly
Exactly...thats what I said too... he doing to much... he turned a 30 minute job...into a full day of work
@@stephenandloriyoung5716 i owe you a beverage bruh! my harbor freight 3-jaw puller worked on the drivers side but broke on the pass side. i got a stouter one but it wasn't budging. almost felt defeated then saw your suggestion. damn, that worked perfectly! with each smack, i could easly get a quarter turn til tight, repeat and done. whew! thanks!
@@ronaldchong
Great! I know they can be very reluctant to let go, and I'm glad that approach worked for you. It's almost enough to make a guy think he should grease, oil, anti-seize or wax the spline before installing the new bearing, right? (But where's the fun in that?)
This is the first time ive witnessed an acetylene torch not work. What a gut busting job
I have a couple of types of pullers my dad made he was a machine shop fitter in the local steel works. Used to see them in his garage when I started helping him when I was 8 . I'm 60 now . God knows how old they really are. If it doesn't come of easily straight away out the old pullers come. Still stored in the old ammo box he had them in, never failed to get anything off . My dad passed away nearly 12 years ago I miss him so but great memories especially when I use the pullers or see the box .
Old school is best made to last and do the job first time every time.
The clip of Kip saying yessss when the axle popped out was hilarious dude
I really didn't read all the comments but when Heating that hub assembly and that axle you should have tried to keep the heat off that axle itself because when you were heating it up it's expanding also you didn't want to expand that axle you just wanted to expand the Hub that the axle was going through
That's also why I have cans of freeze spray laying around. You can attack it both ways. Hot on the outside cold on the inside.
Weld tip of cv shaft. Quench and repeat. Shaft will contract in splines and easier to separate.
@@joeconnolly6978 This
He was sayin he didn’t care about the cv axle anymore. They’re pretty cheap
@@LogiForce86 The freeze spray is great stuff!! Just bought some more to have around!
Loved it! My dad’s usually abides by the principles of brute force an ignorance and sometimes we ended buying the “fixed” parts. Great effort! Thank you!
I have been in those situations years back and learned to only heat the outer side of hub to expand the diameter then press or tap. The splines did look over heated but all was with great determination.
You're a very smart man. 👍
Exactly you want to heat the hub not the axle.
Wow. That's why labor costs so much at repair shops. Never know what you will encounter. Great job guys! 👍🏽👍🏽
thats really what it is unfortunately, most people don't see it that way and want either low to practically zero cost work done and give u shit when you tell em what labor runs smh lol
I'm a mechanic in the rust belt. I think it was just plain old rust jacking where the corrosion expands and fuses the parts together. A+ for persistence and working with what ya got. You sure as heck didn't destroy anything that didn't need to be replaced. When I put stuck axles and hubs in the shop press it startles everyone in the shop when they let go. Bang ! Like a rifle LoL
Thought you might be interested in my comment to this video. I pasted it to you below:
This is why people should take their vehicles apart when they are new. Lubricate areas the factory didn't. Then regularly keep taking it apart before rust has a chance to build and relube. I am presently doing this with a 1991 mazda 626 as an experiment. Have run into many problems with rust. One by one I am solving them and will never let rust establish again. Rust is the biggest enemy to a mechanic. It is such a joy when I redisassemble a part and it comes apart very easily in 5 minutes when previously on the first disassembly it took two full days of pounding, heating, 10 gallons of wd40, breaking pullers, bending breaker bars. Another problem is the factory way over torqueing bolts and nuts and using loctite on some of them. You will run into this with axle nuts. They are way over torqued in my opinion. I make connections snug and then torque a little beyond snug and that's good enough for me. Then I come up with other ways to prevent loosening such as double-nutting, using castle nuts and making a hole in the bolt for a cotter pin. Drilling a hole in a hardened steel threaded shaft is very difficult. What I have done is to cut a slit on the end of a threaded shaft with a cut-off wheel. Then I will braze the slit filling it with bronze. Then I will easily drill a hole in the bronze for the cotter pin. Sometimes I may use locktite on a nut if I can easily heat it to crystalize the locktite for later disassembly. Red loctitle crystalizes at 400° Fahrenheit and then breaks away easily. I learned that from a loctite representative at a trade show once. Mechanical work is a joy when working on a vehicle that has been properly maintained. Working on a rust bucket is a nightmare. This Mazda is a rust bucket but I will eventually get it converted to a well maintained and easy to work on car. Been working on it for 2 years now. 90 % of that time has been fighting rust and over torqueing.
Some were making stupid comments when my friend after getting his FJ Cruiser from dealership, put the thing on the hoist and basically took apart. Then he assembled it with marine grease and rustproofed the underbody. After 2 decades in Rust Belt no problem taking things apart and wasting time fighting rusted, fused together parts.
@@normtheteacher5485 Please don't do this to your vehicle; it is completely insane behavior that will almost certainly cause more problems down the road.
@@nutsackmania Its the best thing I ever did. Everything comes apart easily for easy repairs and maintenance. Your point may be valid though for very modern cars. That's one reason I won't get a new car. Just old school for me. The older the better.
Have you ever tried rustbuster made by supco?
When watching this, I realised that I could use that tool as well. Had one sitting at the shop, just with 3 arms. Thanks for the video. 👍
I spent three days getting a cv unstuck with a 8 lbs sledge, mapp gas and penetrant. I put the nut on the axle, but then put a old socket on the nut and went to town. It only moved a mm on day 3 and finally all the way.
Good job on not giving up.!!! Love your persistence on "Get EEEER..!!Done"!! Great job, and you had great help. Loved the Hallelujah. Blessings.!!👍
Best wat to remove anything like that is to use a puller or a press and leave tension on it and heat the outer periphery of the hub. This will allow the hub to expand away from the axle while the axle remains cooler. If you are using a puller keep tension on and srike the puller bolt head with a brass hammer and the shock can help to loosen the stuck hub. Also if you are using a puller don't us an impact wrench use a hand tool as you can feel the tension. If that had let go while he was holding it chances are he would have lost his finger/s.
Thanks for sharing your expierience with us ! Nothing I hate more than stubborn car parts !
You need to be heating the outside of the flange and keep the puller under tension. It will cause the flange to grow and the presuure will push it through. Hitting the puller bolt is good too.
Exactly, it"s a shame people that don't work in the industry make videos showing how not to do things. No technician with any experience would take a cv shaft out this way or would be unemployed or poor.
i'm a backyard mechanic and I LOVE my 3 jaw puller. anytime i change a wheel hub i use it to push the axle back, it also helps loosen the hub from the knuckle sometimes as you're pushing the axle back. i've had to use slide hammers to yank axles out, and once had to cut an axle out with an angle grinder when the axle joint seperated, but i have been fortunate enough to not encounter an axle frozen into the hub yet.
We all knew this would happen. You did it the funner way!
We made a device for such extremely stubborn cv axles… it’s a box made out of 3/8 plate steel and it’s got a U shaped relief so you can hook it over the hub then drop a 20 ton bottle jack in there and push the axle out. This sometimes damages the bearing and axle but that’s not the worry. You’re trying to safe the knuckle
Got a drawing? Your idea sounds like a great idea. I live in a rust belt and deal with this on a constant basis.
I really had a great time watching and laughing at this video. Much like Lehel Z...I recall how many times I suffered from situations like this one....Kudos to your perseverance in getting the job done....and your comic relief add-ins
Went through this EXACT scenario with a Kia Rio. Funny watching this now because I went through the exact same thought process on what to do next, only difference is I actually went and got the very same 20 ton press you showed and when I put the axle in it, the knuckle actually shattered before the axle broke free so you were probably better off without it lol.
You guys had perseverance that encourages me when I want to give up on a job like this. And yes I am familiar with this issue crazy. Enjoyed you guys
I would suggest heating the hub outside where the studs are and let the hub expand, if you heat the shaft also they both expand.
Yep as entertaining as this is it's too bad you had to ruin all that equipment. Definitely heating the hub and putting on the nut upside down is a good thing. Shaft $350 Hub $90 melt The Hub only. 🤪
@Betrayed Parents Yep, exactly what I was thinking when I first saw where he was putting the heat
Not to mention your changing thr temper on the splines
Thank you for making me so much better that I'm not the first with this problem and haven't nearly gone to level you guys did
Your patience is very admirable..
This can be a very tricky situation , especially once you introduce heat . There is a high risk of other parts being damaged in the process but it is definitely something that can be done . My z had this happen on the RR and I pulled with axle with knuk and ended up putting it in a hydraulic press , soaking it , putting 20k on it , and left it over night . Came back in the morning and the axle was laying on the floor . Also watched how the hub spun after everything was reinstalled without the wheel on , checked the alignment . Everything worked perfect .
You started by putting that tooll on then heat from the out side the ring put no heat on the shaft put a wet rag on it to keep it cool put psi on the tool when it expans it will jump
Been there , done that quite a few times and I do this for a living at my garage , very hard to explain to a customer that it has taken 2 days to split a hub apart , many customers would just buy a 2nd hand full hub unit from the breakers yard , great result 👍👍
Most common issues like this are simply because nobody coated the splines or flanges with a thick coat of grease before assembly.
Grease it this time so it’s easy next time
I was thinking that too… the grease isn’t to lube the splines so much as to keep water out . Some nice marine grease 10years prior and the thing would have slid out..
So true, i got one axle out and got grease on the hub splines now I think these are the original axles from 08 never been touched
This.
After fighting one once, I grease every cv axle I do; come out easy.
Makes me wonder why it isn't common practice.
Exactly! Or anti-seize compound
I have had the same experience. I put the whole spindle in a hydraulic press and crossed my fingers. The rust bond gave up at nearly 30 metric tones on the gauge. I bent the hub so had to replace ut just like you. Good you got it out in the end.
I've been a professional Red Seal Technician for about 3 decades and i just put a front hub bearing in my parents Kia Sorento... Well i finally met my match. I destroyed multiple pullers and did just this, i removed the entire knuckle and axle shaft.... WELL..... 20 tonnes of pressure later with not so much as a creak out of it, i cut the outer CV joint socket off and pressed the hub out of the knuckle with the threaded shaft still in the defective hub and grabbed a cheap white box axle and just accepted defeat and whipped it back together... I have to do the right side next so at least i know exactly what to do and what parts I'll need.
For anyone dealing with old seized parts, if you have the luxury of knowing ahead of time, start spraying the parts 2weeks before working with Free all. It really does break down rust into a powder.
Every 3 or 4 days spray the parts.
In many cases it will result in success.👍
Holy cow! I have the same situation when the hub is stuck to the spline.
It's the first video when I see it happened too.
Very educational, thanks!
I am actually horrified as my car is sitting in the garage with the wheel off and the hub waiting to be separated from the axil. Not the knuckle!!!!
This video awesome!! Thanks for showing the real journey we all go through and how you prevailed.
Man, I know those feels. Literally tried the same series of tools in that order.
He's had 19 hours to think about it, lol. Also I loved the ending. No spoilers but knowledge is power. Great video.
I feel your pain. Once a hub gets wet then hot from a bearing going bad, it fuses like it was welded solid.
You stayed with it longer than I would, good job.
This makes me feel better about giving up on a bearing replacement today after breaking one puller and maxing out another. Now I know that it takes heat + 3 pullers!
I had a malibu that had a stuck axle, I was wailing on. I thought I would never get off. Suprisingly I put the air hammer on it and it came right off.
That's the only way I remove them never ever had one stuck I couldn't get loose remove abs sensor, heat go at it with air hammer with pointed tip works every time.
Air hammers are awesome!
Would love to have an air hammer some day. They help a lot in times like these i feel like
@@MrX-qo5wb Check out Ingersoll-Rand 114GQC on amazon, just under $50. It's a good start!
A good air hammer would have got that cv shaft out. I live in Ohio with lots of salt and never had one the air hammer couldn’t get. The fast hits brake up the rust .
Same here 😊 my air hammer has never failed me on one of these
@@jamiemccort8388 Riveted ball joints are where I fell in love with mine.
I'm a salt lake mechanic, and an air hammer and a little lube is exactly how you do it- definitely not by cooking the axle and mushrooming the end of it. Jackass...
Ditto on the air hammer. Worked in Southern Ma and RI. Salt and rust technician as well.
5lb sledge and a brass punch if you don't have air tools. But I agree pneumatic hammers are the shit if you have a decent compressor.
What a great video. I think I watched this a few years ago, but it was just as entertaining a second time. All that effort to save a knuckle you might find in a junk yard.
I got the hub puller same as this video. I had to pound on the screw with a mini sledge, then turn 1/8 of a turn and repeat. It took probably 15-20 min of this to get the axle off, but it finally came in the end. I think heat all around is bad. Heat expands the metal in all directions which makes everything tighter. Doing this in the dead of winter is your best bet.
Perseverance !
Just a thought - the heat may have been more effective over the entire hub flange to expand it while trying to keep the shaft cool with freeze spray to shrink it.
Here I am again watching your video 2 years later because I have this problem once again. Thanks to your video I went straight to my trusty 3 jaw puller, PB Blaster and a propane torch. It took a while, but I managed to get the CV shaft to budge with everything still attached to the car. My advice to anyone who ends up going down this rabbit hole... do not smack the axle shaft directly with your B.F.H. Put a piece of 2x4 between your hammer and the shaft and don't think your doing yourself a favor by putting the nut on the shaft and hitting that with a hammer. You're only going to mess up the threads on the nut or the axle. Learn from my mistake.
Friend of mine tried all these methods to unstick his not so old BMW axle and hub assembly. It even survived the application in the 30-ton Press. They figured it was just welded together over time. he was forced to buy all new parts.
Your battle with the CV axle reminded me of an IC Weld video where he was removing a stuck pin from a machine with a 20 ton hydraulic jack with no success. He said he was going to get another tool and the video resumed with him assembling a 50 ton jack in the press fixture. The bang from the pin coming loose was heard in the next county. Some things are so satisfying.
2 thoughts, you want the hub to expand, not the Axle but your heat was focused on the axle which causes it to expand and harder to remove. 2. Never fails, cheater bar with pipe on it and heat the hub only, as much as possible. It will pipe right off .
You're a joke
Man I've seen those two jaw pullers go flying when they're sitting all caddywompus like that.
Life safer video! I was in the exact same scenario. I used the same puller and worked perfectly Thanks
In the 2 decades I work on cars, I get many of these type of situation and ALWAYS gets it out within 5 minutes. Its simple....use a puller and put pressure axle nut while hitting hard on the HUB. The shock vibration, along with constant pressure force on the axle will work.
I'm a certified tech and been in the business over 15 years. And I've used 20 ton shop press and them not move. What I usually do is put pressure with the press . Heat the hub and air hammer it till it lets go. And often takes a while.
Why don’t you guys not stick weld 3/4 times tip of knuckle shaft quenching every time. Comes out easy.
@@joeconnolly6978 Not sure what you mean! And never worked in a shop with a stick welder. Every shop I worked in had MIG.
That was quite a struggle. Don't forget to apply the anti-seize before you put the new components together...
I spent 11 hours trying to get the CV axle out of my 2017 Ford Escape SE. I am so glad I’m not the only one who has battled rust seizing and have won.
Maaan, I can sympathize with you. I had one a number of years ago on my 2009 Chevy Uplander van. Exact same scenario as whet you show here. Here's the entry from my notes on that van ..... June 11 2016 - Finally got the R/F wheel bearing swapped out, 5 years warrantee on the new bearing and hub. It took almost 2 weeks of crap, weather and difficulty. The outer c/v joint was incredibly rusted into the bearing hub. Heat with rose bud, pounding, soaking with every type of penetrating fluid for a week, broke 2 pullers, more heat, nothing will get the splines out. I finally cut the c/v joint with an angle grinder and cutoff wheel so I could push it through from the inside. I’ll get a new outer c/v joint → Turns out that they don’t sell outer joints anymore. I had to buy a whole new half shaft. $96 + tx from John, life time warranty. Even if a boot rips, you get a whole new shaft. They don’t even sell boot kits anymore. So now the R/F has new bearing hub and half shaft.
What a battle! I usually preload the spindle using a puller like your old one, the add heat to the outside of the hub. You'll hear it pop free....then penetrating oil.....but that one was super tight
To save those end threads , use a 2 lb. Ball Peen with the ball end in the dimple on end of shaft , hold it there and hit the ballpeen with a 4 lb'er ball peen or sledgehammer . Hitting that 2 lb will allow the force to transfer to the shaft with out rounding over the end with the bigger hammer . Two people should do this , 1 holding the 2 , the other swinging the BFH .
Learned this in 6 years of tank driving !18 hubs to maintain ....you learn alot of tricks .
The axle shaft sticks out enough that you can loosen the nut and leave it toward the end and you still have room for the splined part to start moving. Keeping the nut on will straighten the threads up when you remove the nut after getting the cv joint broken loose. It’s rare that they stick that bad. Great job hanging in there and not giving up.
Just bent the crap out of my 20 ton press trying to do the same thing. I will try again tomorrow. Glad you finally got it!
Worked as a supervisor in a shop, and this would always happen to Ford Explorers. Mind you I live in Sunny Puerto Rico in the Caribbean. So its not always salt issues.
For start take the shaft out of the cv joint to make the item your working on smaller and less cumbersome. Secondly when you put so much pressure on it the splines on the joint will expand inside the hub and make it tighter. Third its the hub you want to heat so that it expands away from the CV, you want to keep the cv as cool as you can. And lastly a hydraulic press would of just damaged the knuckle because you would have no place to grip it at the flange in a press. But considering you replaced both the parts you could of just drilled releaf holes around the shaft between the shaft and hub.
I’ve been there and it’s so frustrating! Victory is the reward and that’s the best feeling overall!
Total WIN..
Success is unworthy without mentioning how miserably one failed.
it was wonderful video.. Puzzle solved.
Now I remember why I moved to Vegas after living in the rust belt.
That's still a net loss. I've been to Vegas and it's a shithole.
When using a puller as shone hitting the end of the puller with a hammer a couple of times as you use them in between using the wrench works very well for me
I tried the exact same steps,....exactly, except the puller, and decided to search the Net. This vid is the first one that relates to my issue,..... I think I need a press, which I don't have room for,...
I used to be a Mechanic got out and don't miss it, Bearing pullers half the time would separate the bearing, So I just used a snap on Air Hammer and PB Blaster And all but a small percentage came out fairly easy without damaging the threads because they would not take the core if the threads where Damaged, I worked in Wisconsin and with snow and salt so I've been there..
I picked up an 8 inch three arm jaw puller about ten years ago,and like you it did dent let me down since. Thanks for filming all your attempts. It’s nice to see people being human,not right and perfect all the time. Great video,Lester
You would be correct, once you have the puller under pressure give either the bolt or the CV cup a tap with the hammer then put pressure on again, also use brake fluid for a penetrating fluid. Always use hand tools on pullers and not pneumatic or battery tools.
Yes. Often a lot more than just a tap!
Hand tools sound good, but tools are cheaper than shoulders. Quality pullers are quite OK with air wrenches and hammers. And with the pneumatic impact wrench you don't have to fight to hold the hub from turning.
I applaud the will to continue on- id have gobe to a scrap yard and purchased another knuckle assembly and scraped all the stuck parts
Suffered this taking my Yaris T Sport driveshaft out the hub the other week. Hammering, penetrant, combined with giving a hub puller everything my impact had on full beans just about did it.
Laughing at all the armchair Internet mechanics telling you what you should or shouldn't have done. There comes a certain point when working on your own stuff where you accept it as a challenge to disassemble it by any means necessary, regardless of the carnage.
Preach brother. Greatest feeling finally getting it free or done.
do it right or dont do it at all....
Absolutely
Exactly!!
Me: REALIZE STUCK PART
Wife: Just buy a new part
Me:ME TO STUCK PART: CHALLENGE ACCEPTED 🤷🏽♂️😂😂😂🥴🥴🥴
Wife:Here we go🤦🏽♀️
😭😂🥴
Next time , leave the assembly on the car , block the hub so it can't spin. Put the wheel puller on , then use a power handle with socket on the puller and use a 4 to 5 foot cheater pipe on the power handle. It will give far more power than an airgun, but stand to the side and keep your hands away because it is under pressure and will fly off with tremendous force once it breaks loose.
I suggest using anti-seize to help prevent galling of the threads. That penetrent will just sit there. If you can apply a shock or vibration, it might seep in. Taps with a hammer or impact tool might work. A technique used for stuck bleeder screws is to heat and then quench with cold several times. The expansion and rapid contraction of the metal breaks the rust bond. Not 100%, but may be worth a try. Use the torch to heat the hub on the outside of the collar. You want the hub to expand. With that old tool under tension, is a good time to heat the outside of the hub. Don't forget to use anti-seize on the splines of your new CV shaft.
I've had them like that before on an old ford, I used a cheap 3 jaw puller and snapped it then used my dads 1950s puller and it broke free, what a job, I mushroom the end of the CV like this video hammering it so used a die grinder to grind away the mushroomed bit and used a thread cutter to put new thread on the CV again.
I'm currently battling a stuck shaft on a 2007 Mini cooper. I ordered a gear puller in hopes I will have better success when it arrives. After watching your video I'm hoping I won't end up in your situation. That thing didn't want to budge. WOW. Great video. I hope your old trans axle is resting in peace.
Same. I'm fighting one on an 04 Mini right now. Conventional methods not working and customer doesn't have the money to replace the CV axle/shaft if I damage it, so I can't try certain methods. Frustrating.
After fighting a job like this for 2 hours is about the time my wife walks into the garage and ask why I'm not done yet. 🙃
I hate it
And then they ask if you have time to take me to the grocery store
Amen
This was impressively stuck. I've never met a CV axle shaft I couldn't drive out by backing the axle nut off flush to the end of the shaft and giving a "Hulk smash!" or two with an 8lb sledge. Keeping the nut on prevents the mushrooming you experienced.
I also have my grandfather's giant two-legged puller, and it has bailed me out of a lot of jams.
Put the puller on with maximum tension. Then hit the shaft head with a hammer. It gives it the shock load that you can't get with torque alone.
Also works with Pitman arms and balljoints.
I can't believe how far down the comments I had to go to find another person with the CORRECT way of doing the job!! 👍
@@hlrembe62 I guess we're the two smartest people in the room.
@@GrimReaper-ly8zk oh, I try not to make that claim I work too dang hard too be smart.😉
@@hlrembe62 I just watched the video again. He wrote at the end that he should have hit the tool. I probably never watched the full video the first time.
To prevent this happening again, I would recommend that you use Kopper Kote copper anti seize compound. Kopper Kote is made by Jet Lube. Permatex also makes a copper anti seize compound. This is also excellent for oxygen sensors!
Hello from north east Montana.
10 miles from the Canadian border.
I swear they need to start using it at the factory
Oh I know that feeling when it finally gives. Hero level that feeling
an 80yr old puller, so much fun to watch all the different trys!
At the time mark 7:00 the end of the axle is damaged so much from the hammering and from the heat that I would just buy the entire assembly brand new. Hot metal is soft so hitting it just makes larger dents in it. One other method I would have tried is set the balancer puller you used earlier to apply the pressure and then heat the end of the axle while there is pressure on it.
Amazing how rust can lock up things better then most any type glue or even some weldings...
It's most likely a tapered driveshaft, it has nothing to do with rust if it's tapered.
@@chronicblazer84 wrong. Dissimilar metal corrosion- aluminum on steel.
@@joecaseyj what is dissimilar metals? The hub is an alloy, the bearing is an alloy, and the shaft is an alloy... Dissimilar metals normally cause oxidization, not corrosion, as corrosion comes from external sources, such as salt and water. The hub is sealed so the splines can't be corroded...
Pro tip, remove the shaft completely, and you will be able to hammer it out, kind of pointless to hit a shaft that is still connected at the flange and can't move. 👍
@@chronicblazer84 guess you didn’t pay attention in chemistry class..
@@chronicblazer84 oxidation IS corrosion smh..
Glad I live in a place where its arid and hot enough that stuff like this rarely happens! :D
Props on not giving up and showing that pesky thing who's boss! lol
Had a similar experience on a Pontiac Aztec front hub. Ended up placing the knuckle w/hub and shaft in a press, End result was the aluminum knuckle shattered. Ordered a knuckle, hub, axle. and backing plate.