Hi, Great video, awesome to see some jeep crd service stuff, wish there was more and thanks for posting there is a slight error however, you arnt using the crank locking tool correctly, the long bolt in the kit should pass down the middle of the crank lock and thread into the crank, locking it , without the bolt the crank is not locked. the video shows the bolt being used to hold the cam lock in place which it wouldnt as theres no shoulder , it could easily come use. please im not trying to nit pick but locking the cam and crank are critical :)
i know im randomly asking but does someone know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account..? I somehow lost my password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
This is the most useful video about this motor, i was searching for the Dodge one, but i think i'm good with this one since it's the same motor. Thanks for the most useful tutorial i've seen. Will try to keep you all updated
Watching the 3.6 petrol water pump replacement vids prior... "Oh that's easy, I can do it". Finally get to the CRD (my car) "Yeah, F that". Excellent video by the way.
This motor (VM Motori) is also used in the Holden Colorado's in Australia 2012-2014. From 2014-2020 the motor was refined more and produced more power 147kw and 500Nm
Ready to start putting things back. I bought a water pump along with TB and a few other parts. The watet pump I removed looks like the one in the video, the replacement has a different impeller. Bought all parts from a VM dealer. The pump frame is the same as it will bolt up. Thanks
Hey mate im getting desperate i saw you remove the camsaft sensor and thank you. I couldn't figure it out. Any chance you could tell me where the crankshart posision sensor is. I live in Australia and cant find anything on line and now one in town will help
Many thanks for this. My 2010 Cherokee KK crd is the same engine and I'm doing the belt change right now. I have to add that for anyone doing this on the KK you really have to remove the electric fan with the shroud first, what an absolute pain in the ass it is to remove. You end up removing loads of things to be able to wriggle it out. These engine do get a bad press but think they're ok, just a nightmare to work on and get to anything important.
Great vid! I’ve done it Chrysler Grand Voyager CRD. Use a gash bolt and washer to hold the cam shaft tool in place in the head not the long pin and be careful not to damage the cam position wheel as you’ll need a new exhaust cam otherwise. The long pin should actually go through the crank tool when its fitted in the block and secures into the crankshaft. The fuel pump isn’t timed but mark it up as a matter of course so you know your belt tooth count is correct between the crank and cam. Buy the tool on eBay £40/$45. It’s a very easy job with it. Replace the tensioner as spring force will reduce over time. At 100k miles my water pump and seal were fine. Change water pump on condition (cracks or too much rotational or axial free play) or if you damage the seal removing it - couldn’t fine the seal as a separate part in UK.
A very good video thank you very much. How many newton meters of torque does the belt tensioner need? the screw broke off. I mean not the timing belt. Thanks so much greetings from Germany
Well done. Its difficult task. Done 4 times on my 2 jeeps. Few things, HP pump is not critical to align, i. e its not injection timed. only crn. sh and cm. sh needs alignment. For those who does not have locking tools, just mark toothed pulleys and put the new belt the way you took out old belt. Dont be scared)
@@deepak3218 the pump is not an issue at all, doesnt need synchronization. if one tooth off, no big deal, but sometimes engine knoks litlle bit during cold start
Awesome vid, I just have a massive problem removing the BT driven fan, the nut is way too tight (the part at 50sec) I have broken 2 big screw drivers already from holding the pulley in place. I am rotating the nut counter clockwise to unfasten it. Am I doing something wrong or there is a secret? Please help :(
@@backyaard8010 Wow thank you for the quick reply. I am doing this to change the altenator and getting to the tensioner pulley is very difficult with the fan still on. However I've seen people do it the cowboy way by putting on a wrench and a pipe on it to get leverage (as a normal breaker bar won't fit due to the fan being very close), not sure if that's a good idea though...
You have probably sorted this problem already,but for anyone else having this problem, look at the following video ua-cam.com/video/kCmptAKQb9Y/v-deo.html
Thank you! We found 2 sources tor the torque specs. One said 32Nm, the other said 23Nm, so you might be right. In my opinion it doesn’t make any difference with these particular bolts.
Hi, will the engine start without the timing cover and oil pump not connected? Ive triple checked all the marks and want to be sure before i put everything back on
Hi from Oamaru, south island New Zealand.my beloved 2008 has the rear firewall end injector totally seized frozen in head and even a 7 kg slide hammer at full force wouldn't shift it. would you have any ideas on the penetrating oil or extracting tricks. on the oil I have Kroil and P.b baster. thanks in advance also love your vid..Carl
conmanumber1 I was able to remove all 4 injectors without any problems, so I don’t have any ideas how to go ahead in your case. Might worth checking the Jeep JK Wrangler CRD owners group on Facebook, great community with lots of help.
@@jjkenny1437 Hello, I thank you for your answer ! I've got to change this timing belt on a nitro but I wasn't sure it was the same way to proceed. So thank you again and I wich you a good continuation.
Marius Docea i think yes, it is the exact same procedure and toolset required, but haven’t done any 2014+ yet. Check the part numbers in the video description, they all seem to work for all CRD JKs 2007-20018.
Good job well done Just i dont getting why you need to mark new and old belt to put in the same position. Isn't the same in every position you will install it?
Christian Lorenzi yes it is exactly the same whatever position you might install. But if you match mark with the old belt, you can be sure that same number of teeth will be in between each pulleys, than it was before. I hope it makes sense..
Do not under any circumstances remove the camshaft pulley, with locking tool on exhaust cam it is no problem without the locking tool there is no way to time the engine again as the camshaft pulley has no key way. Thanks for the video, was checking pump timing mark.
Great video, especially with all NM‘s for the screws and bolts, very professional. Only the demounting sequence of the two fans and the shrout / fan housing gave me a hard time. In the video you can see, that the showed car has a self made cut out at the lower end which is not original. So you just can’t slide it up as shown. Is almost impossible to do without breaking anything if its original without cutout. At the end as I mounted back these three parts I realized, that the better method would be: First loosing the screw nut of the inner fan, then sliding up the housing together with the loose inner fan, then outer fan. At the end outer fan first, then sloding down the housing together with the inner fan, mounting the fan and getting the fan housing in position works better. You still need patience and chinses child hands to do but it works better. Did the job yesterday on my friends Wrangler, thanks a lot for this excellent and professional video ! Greetings from Germany...Percy
Is this the same engine with the Chevy Trailblazer 2014-2019? It has A428 DOHC 2.8 crdi diesel engine made by VM Motori assembled in thailand 200hp 500nm torqu. It is practically the same with the new chevy colorado 2.8.. question is same procedure on changing the timing belt?
You should mention what the special tools needed to remove the Hydro fan and lock cams etc. Also, if you had someone that could speak english clearly that would help.
Hi, Great video, awesome to see some jeep crd service stuff, wish there was more and thanks for posting there is a slight error however, you arnt using the crank locking tool correctly, the long bolt in the kit should pass down the middle of the crank lock and thread into the crank, locking it , without the bolt the crank is not locked. the video shows the bolt being used to hold the cam lock in place which it wouldnt as theres no shoulder , it could easily come use. please im not trying to nit pick but locking the cam and crank are critical :)
CandSEvo7 thanks for the nice feedback, hope that others read and learn from this. next time I will take good care of it for sure!
So the bolt had to be bolted or not in the crankshaft
Thank you for this precision that I saw too late, I saw the locking tool was not fixed but chance was here nothing move :)
i know im randomly asking but does someone know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account..?
I somehow lost my password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Kenzo Tanner instablaster ;)
Thanks for taking the time to upload this video. Exactly what I needed. Needs to be more Wrangler CRD specific videos out there. Good job guys!
Agree completely, had to change altenator, this was super useful
This is the most useful video about this motor, i was searching for the Dodge one, but i think i'm good with this one since it's the same motor.
Thanks for the most useful tutorial i've seen.
Will try to keep you all updated
Watching the 3.6 petrol water pump replacement vids prior... "Oh that's easy, I can do it". Finally get to the CRD (my car) "Yeah, F that".
Excellent video by the way.
This motor (VM Motori) is also used in the Holden Colorado's in Australia 2012-2014. From 2014-2020 the motor was refined more and produced more power 147kw and 500Nm
❤
Thank you so much for all details in this video. So I change by myself on my JK.
Excelent Video. Thank you!!
Ready to start putting things back. I bought a water pump along with TB
and a few other parts. The watet pump I removed looks like the one in the video, the replacement has a different impeller. Bought all parts from a VM dealer. The pump frame is the same as it will bolt up. Thanks
I would put back if it fits, but that is just a suggestion. Google it on other forums if you want to be sure!
Mate, fantastic quality video. Thanks for putting up. 👍
Hey mate im getting desperate i saw you remove the camsaft sensor and thank you. I couldn't figure it out.
Any chance you could tell me where the crankshart posision sensor is. I live in Australia and cant find anything on line and now one in town will help
Hi , I am from France and a tell you nice job !!!
Many thanks for this. My 2010 Cherokee KK crd is the same engine and I'm doing the belt change right now. I have to add that for anyone doing this on the KK you really have to remove the electric fan with the shroud first, what an absolute pain in the ass it is to remove. You end up removing loads of things to be able to wriggle it out.
These engine do get a bad press but think they're ok, just a nightmare to work on and get to anything important.
Merci pour cette vidéo détaillée, qui nous aide a bien comprendre les étapes à suivre. Bonne continuation.
Gorgeous video.
bravo super tuto, bien fimé et bien commenté. merci pour cette vidéo qui va bien m'aider! 👍
Great vid! I’ve done it Chrysler Grand Voyager CRD. Use a gash bolt and washer to hold the cam shaft tool in place in the head not the long pin and be careful not to damage the cam position wheel as you’ll need a new exhaust cam otherwise. The long pin should actually go through the crank tool when its fitted in the block and secures into the crankshaft. The fuel pump isn’t timed but mark it up as a matter of course so you know your belt tooth count is correct between the crank and cam. Buy the tool on eBay £40/$45. It’s a very easy job with it. Replace the tensioner as spring force will reduce over time. At 100k miles my water pump and seal were fine. Change water pump on condition (cracks or too much rotational or axial free play) or if you damage the seal removing it - couldn’t fine the seal as a separate part in UK.
On a 2014 Colorado, that long pin didn't need to go into the crankshaft. Once you thread the large pin in, it's locked.
Very good video with the torque specs
🔵🔵🔵🙂🙂🙂👍👍👍🔵🔵🔵
Cảm ơn bạn chia sẻ cách thay bộ cam và bơm nước xe jeep ,chúc bạn mạnh khỏe chia sẻ nhiều video hay
That was a great UA-cam Sir thank you !
A very good video thank you very much. How many newton meters of torque does the belt tensioner need? the screw broke off. I mean not the timing belt. Thanks so much greetings from Germany
Just started mine. Omg it’s a dog to work on.
Well done. Its difficult task. Done 4 times on my 2 jeeps. Few things, HP pump is not critical to align, i. e its not injection timed. only crn. sh and cm. sh needs alignment. For those who does not have locking tools, just mark toothed pulleys and put the new belt the way you took out old belt. Dont be scared)
Would there be any issue if one tooth was out from camshaft or the hp pump
@@deepak3218 the pump is not an issue at all, doesnt need synchronization. if one tooth off, no big deal, but sometimes engine knoks litlle bit during cold start
What is sh, crn and cm?? The camshaft and crankshaft are critical. But there are marks for the injector pump so why not use them. Its not hard.
nice,video ilike it but need the overhauling video for this engine please
Very good clip
If you inspect the timing belt, and there are no cracks or any damage, and the tensioner is still good ... do you still need to replace the belt ?
Very useful video! Do you have Mopar part number of timing belt?
Awesome tutorial!
Super Video!! Well done!
At 0:50, I’m trying to unscrew the big nut of fan, locking pulley inserting a screwdriver, but the nut is blocked.
I make a big stress, but nothing.
just keep on trying, we dont know any special trick on that
@@backyaard8010
I have unscrewed the nut beating many times with an hammer (800 g) over the end of the wrench (36 mm - 42 cm).
Hi. Question for you: Did you eventually get that nut off?
TOP! GRAZIE,, FROM ITALIA
Thank you! Chrysler Grand Voyager 2.8crd 2011 refreshing. :)
Thanks for the video. Why not make a video for engine rebuild for 2.8L Duramax?
Nice video. Thx
Podrías indicarme el número de parte de la herramienta que utilizaste para trabar ?
Its used in the 2.8 RT chrysler voyager 2011
And Holden colorado around 2010
Need to timing high pressure pump?
Thank you!!!
Please, could you specify model of camshaft locking tool and crankshaft locking tool?
It’s listed in the video description
@@backyaard8010
Thank you.
good video. Great job.
thank you chrysler.....
TDC timing marks ... you mentioned that all 'three' need to line up, but you only showed and mentioned two marks.
Awesome vid, I just have a massive problem removing the BT driven fan, the nut is way too tight (the part at 50sec) I have broken 2 big screw drivers already from holding the pulley in place. I am rotating the nut counter clockwise to unfasten it. Am I doing something wrong or there is a secret? Please help :(
You are doing it right. We also had difficulties with that nut, got no secret tips for easy removal. Keep on fighting! 💪
@@backyaard8010 Wow thank you for the quick reply. I am doing this to change the altenator and getting to the tensioner pulley is very difficult with the fan still on. However I've seen people do it the cowboy way by putting on a wrench and a pipe on it to get leverage (as a normal breaker bar won't fit due to the fan being very close), not sure if that's a good idea though...
You have probably sorted this problem already,but for anyone else having this problem, look at the following video
ua-cam.com/video/kCmptAKQb9Y/v-deo.html
very useful. thx
thank you for sharing!
Hello, very clear tutorial thanks.
The tightening torque of 32N.m for the water pump bolts sounds a bit high, is it really correct ?
Regards
Thank you!
We found 2 sources tor the torque specs. One said 32Nm, the other said 23Nm, so you might be right. In my opinion it doesn’t make any difference with these particular bolts.
@@backyaard8010
32 are Nm
23 are ft lbs
Thanks!
what kind of camshaft pulley is that.. no marker?? thats scary
Hi, will the engine start without the timing cover and oil pump not connected? Ive triple checked all the marks and want to be sure before i put everything back on
I'm not sure if it will start without the camshaft position sensor reinstalled. but i think cannot do any harm trying it
Hi from Oamaru, south island New Zealand.my beloved 2008 has the rear firewall end injector totally seized frozen in head and even a 7 kg slide hammer at full force wouldn't shift it. would you have any ideas on the penetrating oil or extracting tricks. on the oil I have Kroil and P.b baster. thanks in advance also love your vid..Carl
conmanumber1 I was able to remove all 4 injectors without any problems, so I don’t have any ideas how to go ahead in your case. Might worth checking the Jeep JK Wrangler CRD owners group on Facebook, great community with lots of help.
Nice vid gents! Some good info :)
should I buy a Rubicon unlimited 3.8 L CRD ? Yes or no ...
is the injector pump timed with the bottom thread where the cover screws onto
Yes, there are marks at 5 o’clock and it must be aligned
I've got a question please ? Is it the same way to change timing belt on dodge nitro 2,8 CRD 177 CV ? I think yes but I want to be sure. Thanks a lot.
Sorry, we dont know. Maybe
The 2.8 Diesel VM Montori found in the Jeep is the same as found in the Dodge Nitro, I have just done this job.
@@jjkenny1437 Hello, I thank you for your answer ! I've got to change this timing belt on a nitro but I wasn't sure it was the same way to proceed. So thank you again and I wich you a good continuation.
Very valuable!
Hallo, i must change this on my Rubicon 2014,is the same procedure ? I must buy the came key set ? tx
Marius Docea i think yes, it is the exact same procedure and toolset required, but haven’t done any 2014+ yet. Check the part numbers in the video description, they all seem to work for all CRD JKs 2007-20018.
Good job well done
Just i dont getting why you need to mark new and old belt to put in the same position.
Isn't the same in every position you will install it?
Christian Lorenzi yes it is exactly the same whatever position you might install. But if you match mark with the old belt, you can be sure that same number of teeth will be in between each pulleys, than it was before. I hope it makes sense..
@@backyaard8010 got it
Now it makes sense
@@backyaard8010 I ve a 2007 dodge nitro 2.8.
As far as I know it should be the same engine with the same work
I assume yes!
Hi can I do timing without timing belt tools????ive got nitro booked in for next week to do timing belt.
I've heard people doing it without tools, but very dangerous, wouldn't recommend it.
No problem I ordered the tools. Doing this engine first time so a bit nervous 😥
How many kms when you should change it ✌️🇨🇦
G K every 100.000kms
Or every six years.
Thanks but, it's the same motor on 2007 177hp crd ?
yes, the Wrangler CRD engine is the same 2007-2012
@@gergogaz thanks
Do not under any circumstances remove the camshaft pulley, with locking tool on exhaust cam it is no problem without the locking tool there is no way to time the engine again as the camshaft pulley has no key way. Thanks for the video, was checking pump timing mark.
Akinya pakai tipe apa ?
If I tense a little more?
Which bolt? And how much more? אריק נאידה
Great video, especially with all NM‘s for the screws and bolts, very professional. Only the demounting sequence of the two fans and the shrout / fan housing gave me a hard time. In the video you can see, that the showed car has a self made cut out at the lower end which is not original. So you just can’t slide it up as shown. Is almost impossible to do without breaking anything if its original without cutout. At the end as I mounted back these three parts I realized, that the better method would be: First loosing the screw nut of the inner fan, then sliding up the housing together with the loose inner fan, then outer fan. At the end outer fan first, then sloding down the housing together with the inner fan, mounting the fan and getting the fan housing in position works better. You still need patience and chinses child hands to do but it works better.
Did the job yesterday on my friends Wrangler, thanks a lot for this excellent and professional video !
Greetings from Germany...Percy
Thanks for the feedback Percy! The fan shroud removal is definetly a pain in the ass without the cutout, so thanks for the input regarding that!
The timing belt tensioner torque should be 20 Nm, not 28.
The outer front cover (upper - lower) torque should be 11 Nm, not 8.
Omar
Is this the same engine with the Chevy Trailblazer 2014-2019? It has A428 DOHC 2.8 crdi diesel engine made by VM Motori assembled in thailand 200hp 500nm torqu. It is practically the same with the new chevy colorado 2.8.. question is same procedure on changing the timing belt?
Arman Pena unforrunately we do not know, sorry!
@@backyaard8010 it is the same engine with jeep rubicon 2.8 crdi
Very good Video. mfG.: Ringo
Italiao
You should mention what the special tools needed to remove the Hydro fan and lock cams etc. Also, if you had someone that could speak english clearly that would help.