Bought a 2017 JK Sahara from a Ford dealership 72,000 miles .Really excited for my first Wrangler. Got done the paperwork about to drive it off the lot, then BING!! Check engine came on. They told me take it home they will pick it up, provide a loaner and fix it. Ended up being valve cover gasket. So far everything the dealership told me they would do, they certainly have done. I understand when you buy a used vehicle these things happen. Cautiously optimistic, moving forward.
So from my experience; -At about 70,000 miles or so your driver’s side header will crack. Same place same crack every time on OEM headers. Something wrong with the cast iron molds they used to make them. -The radiator will always spring a leak at some point. This problem seems to be consistent on both OEM and aftermarket radiators so hopefully you just get a good one. -All the MOPAR gaskets are unfortunately made by MOPAR so they will all get hard, crack and leak. Main leaks for both 3.8L and 3.6L are valve covers, upper oil pan, and front crank seal. And if you have a 3.6L expect the rear main seal to leak and the oil filter housing to leak as well. -Expect all lines that use a crimp on fitting, to connect a hard line to a soft line, to leak. Especially on the transmission cooler lines and power steering lines. -Expect the nylon bushings that connect your shift levers, both the automatic shit lever and the 4wd shift lever, to break. There are 4 total. They connect the levers to the cables and the cables to the shift arms on the transmission and transfer case perspectively. They dry rot and break. -If you buy a new Jeep, do yourself a favor and tighten the castle nuts down on your balljoints. From the factory they are always too loose and you might experience death wobble. The manufacturer torques the balljoints down when it’s just a bare rolling frame with no weight. After final assembly the vehicle weighs a lot more than it did during the initial torquing of the balljoints. The joints will compress and become loose. -Being that it has a Chrysler motor with hydraulic lifters, you will get the infamous “Hemi Tick”. Don’t worry. Never really progresses to more than just an annoying tick at startup on the small 3.8L and 3.6L. Not really worth replacing the lifters because it will just come right back. You’ll eventually hear it at startup, but once you build oil pressure and the engine warms up, it goes away. And it’s not like in the Hemi engines where it will eat the lobes off your camshaft. Just do your oil changes and maybe run some marvel mystery oil through your engine every now and then to help bust off gunk and clear the oil ports in the lifters so they can build pressure and actually dampen again. The tick is just the slop in the lifters, slapping around until oil fills them up to hydraulically dampen them. -The rest is just normal wear and tear that every vehicle will get after a long life on the road. But that just about covers the vehicle specific problems.
1-You don’t need to take the dash apparent to change the heater core. There is another way and you can find it on you tube and the forum boards. 2- clean the O2 sensors with carb cleaner. You don’t need to change them. I have been doing this and I have 250,000 KLM on my jeep JK.
Hi Jacko Packo, would you have any insight into what I could try for a engine trouble code P0204. Fuel injector 4 Circuit? I have a 2017 jeep rubicon that only has 63,233kms on it.
I also found with the water leaks issue on my daughters Jeep that after installing a new door seal I was able to adjust the hinges to get the door to close a little tighter and that helped stop the leaks too.
i think my jeep needs this done, i have replaced door seals, b pillar muckets and foam along the top. What is the best way to adjust the door without getting it out of wack too bad?
I own a 6 speed 2012 Wrangler JKU. Currently 141,000 Miles Things I've had fixed: T-Stat, Brake Hoses and Calipers. About to swap a starter. That's it. I'm really happy with it.
2010 jeep wrangler, heater core cut tubes under dash slide out,repair with heater hose and 4 hose clamps . pcm : 2010 TSB needs to be reflashed ,you will get false codes .At least 2 egr valves, broken valve spring 70,000 miles. Roof leaks after hard rain. Always buy oem, they don't like auto zone sensors. Tried 3 auto zone sensors didn't work,bought OEM bingo! Also intake manifold bolt by number one cylinder breaks in head for no reason, gotta remove exhaust manifold and head to remove. There's more but ,not enough time. Awesome vehicle to drive but before u buy one,ask your self, do I really like working on vehicles. Great video. PEACE
Based off my time on forums and fixing my 2015 wrangler and other wranglers of about the same age, the main problems are thermostats, oil filter housing/cooler/sensors assembly leaking oil into the valley of the block, oil pumps stuck in high or low pressure mode, radiator leaks, and hydraulic valve lash adjusters or cam followers failing.
Good Video! problems I have had. 1, gas cap, $14.00 2, tire pressure sensors (2) failed $ 130.00 3, Fuel injector (1) $180.00 4, Cracked, chipped windshield. $280.00(replaced) MY jeep 2015 with 69k. But these were relatively small problems, Still Love my Jeep Wrangler.
I have a 2013 Wrangler and haven't had any of these issues. I have had 2 heater actuator failures and 1 brake caliper failure, and that's all. I'm at just over 100K miles. I didn't buy it for its reliability record, I bought it because they are the coolest, most fun to drive vehicles on and off the road.
I don't know why people hate on them so much. I recently picked up a heavily modded manual one and with no doors on the trail it feels like a massive go kart/rc car
For me, thermostat went on 2 Jks between 50-60k miles. Water pump was a common failure out of the factory for early Pentastar engines; most fixed under warranty.
I just discovered my napa blakamp thermostat does not open, (and I suspect the new one on my used Jeep is not either.). It is a 203 F. thermostat for the 2013 JK Wrangler, (which is hotter than I want really), and boiling the assembly, (thermostat and plastic housing) in water on the stove, it does not move at 203. It just starts moving at 220 F. The problem is 2 things. There is a .250" (approx), gap between the end of the plunger rod end and the plastic housing that it has to sit against to open the valve. The plunger may be moving at 203 degrees, (I will find out), but it does not close the gap until about 220. Then it does not have enough travel left to open the valve past the 2mm thick seal to allow good flow. I am making a little metal rod to fill that gap now, (I want to just feel it when I put the thermostat in the housing), and I milled 3 .180" holes in the metal diaphragm to insure some flow at all times, (even when warming up. Have not tested it yet). With a thermostat that is not opening the way it should, the engine temp gauge does not go past normal, (like it is stuck for the last 35 degrees), and the engine will start shutting down to make less heat, with error messages,--so the coolant will not boil over. Go buy a thermostat for about $14.00 at a auto parts store, and boil it in water to see what it does. If it is not starting to move at the designated temp and does not open fully,---you probably have a gap between the rod and the plastic. A mechanic who only looks for codes only, (and that is the vast majority of them today),will not find this,---because the thermostat does not have a code.
I bought my jk in Stuttgart, Germany for $5,900 and we have been driving him all over the world. He has gotten us home every time. I have had all these issues. The 02 sensor was actually completely loose/dirty battery terminals, weird it even started. The heater core, I swapped the hoses because a bunch of online forums said it would help, it help burn a hole with the egr tube in the unshielded one and burn a hole in the shielded one with the exhaust manifold. We still love him, we named him Pepe because the interior was stinky when we bought him.
I haven't had any of this, 2008 JK, 110,000 kilomètres. February 2021. I've had the front-end serviced with ball-joints and shocks after the infamous death-shake. I had terrible rear-brake wearing and ultimately had to have the calipers changed. I've had roof leaks which led to the front floor pan needing repairs. Door hinge bushings. Fan and thermostat. But apart from that, my service record is very good.
I had a 1997 TJ from new. Loved it. Nothing is better to drive on a nice sunny day. But it was the biggest junk pile I ever owned. Major water leaks through the cowl that ended up with floor pan full of water on rainy days, severe body rust perforations after only 4 years, 5th gear in manual transmission went out, coolant hoses failed in short time leaving coolant all over the road, radiator failures, water pump failures, major suspension failures, and on and on. I only owned it for seven years with 71,000 on the odometer, lol. And I was very light on it, I didn’t abuse it, I didn’t off road it, I didn’t lift it. All that despite it being garaged for most of its life! If the reliability ever got better I might consider another one...maybe.
That's INSANE! Had a YJ back in 94. Loud choppy ride.. swore I'd never buy another. I have a 2015 in mint condition with 7200 miles. It sits in my garage most of the time waiting for an adventure. Fun to drive but next to useless. I prefer driving my astro.
I replaced my heater core by going through the glove box. There is a good video on UA-cam on how to do it. You have to cut a couple of brackets but afterwards you can pop rivet them back together. It took me several hours because I went very slowly and carefully but in the end, it was not that hard.
I just bought a 2015 wrangler sport with 105,000 Kms on it. I know nothing about Jeep’s . I just know I wanted one for years as a second vehicle. Great video , thanks for taking the time to bake it.
Thanks I'm on my 2nd Wrangler :) Leaking, heating core tips appreciated! But I will never give this vehicle up! Head on collision in April, walked away with a dent; my crash bar is a beast!
Haha I got rear ended and pushed into the car in front of me. The trailer hitch took the impact, and my aftermarket front bumper barely had a scratch. Both cars had to be towed with extensive damage, I drove away
Only one of these I've had with my 2015 JKU is both sides of the roof leak. Other issue I'm taking care of right now is the Oil Filter Cooler leak. It appears to be a very common issue that you may want to add to the list. Replacement is a pretty involved process. While doing it I also discovered the heater hose under the one you pointed at was bulged and had to be replaced. That hose goes to the Oil Filter Cooler. Thanks for the heads up on the other items.
Yeah, I'm shocked this is not on the list. This is probably THE most notorious problem. Just had to have mine replaced. Then, 2 days after, a front brake flex hose.
Good video. One very common problem that I feel should have been in your list is the corroding aluminum door hinges on the JKs. If you didn't know, it's actually not rust, it is galvanic corrosion due to the aluminum hinge being in contact with the steel door. The corrosion occurs on the sacrificial aluminum hinge. This was somewhat corrected in late 2015 by putting some type of a spacer between the two parts. Dealing with a small evap leak and gas cap light on my daughter's 2007 JK right now. Tried greasing the gas cap seal and then replacing the gas cap, but neither of those things worked.Just got a replacement purge valve in that I'm going to try. That is also a common problem. If that doesn't work I'll try the evap leak detection pump that you point out in your video.
We have a 2011 Wrangler 2dr. Sport. Very satisfied and still love it! It has 159K on the odometer plus it has been towed all over America behind our motor home. I was a maintenance chief in the Air Force so this Wrangler has been extremely well maintained! Of the 5 most common failures with our series of Wranglers that we have experienced with ours is the gas cap/evap system issue. It has its 3rd gas cap and at one time had to go back to the dealer for extensive fuel tank and evap system repair. A nice $2K repair bill. But at least no more “Ck Engine Lights” Right now it is at our repair shop waiting in-line (we are 29th) for a Chrysler rebuilt 3.8 engine. It started over heating a month ago. I replaced the thermostat with the MOPAR thermostat ….. did not fix. Then a test of the coolant showed exhaust gas contamination in the coolant! Sorry this has gone on so long but we have a long, successful history with ours. Currently it has a dash full of those cute little plastic ducks. We have always participated in the “Wrangler Wave”! We have even studied the dynasty of the Jeep Wrangler historical vehicle. At the top of the Wrangler hierarchy is the 1941 Wrangler, NOT your brand new Wrangler off the showroom floor! Take your shiny new Wrangler out and drive it in the rain and mud for a few days and you moved it up the list slightly! Anyway …… we love our Wrangler and love being a Wrangler family. We just recently became a 2-Jeep family! We just bought a new Compass “Red” edition. Wrangler Wave”!
Both left and right side Cam Positioning Sensors , and the Crankshaft angle sensors were bad on mine...Engine kept stalling out on my 2013 Sahara Unlimited. I replaced both cam sensors (@ $35 each) and the crank shaft sensor ($25) , now it runs normally , no loss of power , or stalling issues .
Haven’t had any of these issues with my 2012, but I did have an issue with the oil filter housing cracking and leaking. I replaced it with the newer design from the 2015-. Was pretty involved but got it done myself.
I also cracked mine doing my own oil and filter changes. My mechanic who changed it out for me told me that the oil filter house is extremely easy to crack and recommended that I only tighten it finger tight without a wrench when changing the filter.
2017 Wrangler owner. Condensation from AC leaks into the front drivers side of the cab. Been doing that since I drove it off the lot. Took it in several times for this, dealership just said they couldn't find anything. Shouldn't have to wet vac the carpet ofter a long drive.
Got an 07, with a little over 230,000. My 02 censors are bad. But aside that, it’s still a pretty good old jeep. Everything still works and still runs good. Think I’ll keep it.
2014 JKU. 130k miles, tow a lot (pontoon, jet ski, snowmobiles and quad) and so far, the only problem has been an hvac actuator and oil filter housing seals going bad. Fixed both myself for
I have a 15 jk with 135k, I’m the original owner. It’s been a good jeep. But I’ve had a front hub bearing, clock spring, vacuum pump deteriorate, hvac blend door actuator, intermediate shaft and blower motor makes a noise but still works. Pretty common stuff for a jk. I replaced the tie rod ends and pitman arm but honestly I consider those a wear item. I also live in NE Ohio and drive through the rust belt. Oh and I crack the windshield all the time.
Just traded mine. Bought it brand new in 2017 put 130,000 miles on it every other month of 2024 was another $1000 job. The most consistent problem I had since purchase was battery drain. Who knows how many batteries I put it in over the years. But it was a ridiculous amount. Even after all that money I put it in this year the dealership looked at it and sent it to auction.
adding another two common problems: speed (ABS) sensors, most of the time corroded wires or connectors and second, the oil adapter (cooler) starts to leak oil.
2015 JKU with 98k miles, had oil cooler, O2 sensors, and gas cap so far. Despite it's issues still less problems than my wife's Mercedes, and more fun to drive to.
Emergency brake. Also if you have the navigation radio the navigation works sometimes and sometimes it doesn’t. Had the whole unit replaced. Still doesn’t make any difference. Definitely had to have the heater core replaced this is a 2013 Rubicon two door
Death wobble...replaced steering stabilizer shock with a late 90's model shock...yep. it fits and it doesn't need to be replaced every 10,000 miles. 💪🏽😎
Just bought a jk 2012 with 140,000 thousand and I'm about to change the oil switch and apparently it had leak issues, but I LOVE THIS JEEP IS MY FIRST 😊😊😊
I have a 2014 and have replaced the heater core 2 times. Going to take his advice and start replacing the coolant. Also the passenger door leaks every time it rains.
I've faced all five issues with my 2011 JK. After replacing them once, I haven't had to do it again. The gas cap and evap canister problems surfaced after six years of use, while the others occurred over the course of 12 years.
Word to the wise, if the oxygen sensor fails you have to replace with MOPAR sensors, I tried replacing with autozone Bosh sensors but it would not read them and the check engine light never came off and eventually the Jeep rode rough. I put MOPAR sensors and immediately rode better, and the light came off after a 100 miles
I would strongly recommend that you replace your coolant with Preston 50/50. Dexcool separates and clogs the system causing leaks in weak areas. I worked for a company that manufactured all automotive radiators. In my years there I seen it all. Every jeep I’ve owned I went with castrol gtx synblend 5w20. And immediately changed the coolant. In basic terms you want the green color coolant. Buy 50/50 premix. Calcium deposits from tap water will corrode your water pump.
2014 Sahara 85k miles repairs thus far: -Oil filter housing/cooler/sensors replacement, take entire top of the engine off, new valve cover gaskets etc -ESIM valve, EVAP charcoal canister, gas cap replacement - new alternator, all pulleys & belts related - new thermostat - new rear drive shaft, my fault towing too heavy load - brake rotors & pads - led headlights That’s it so far.
I have a 2013 JK and have had to rep;ace the cps twice! Never even heard of a cps till the Jeep just quit. Very easy and cheap fix but a real head scratcher to diagnose.
I just discovered my napa blakamp thermostat does not open, (and I suspect the new one on my used Jeep is not either.). It is a 203 F. thermostat for the 2013 JK Wrangler, (which is hotter than I want really), and boiling the assembly, (thermostat and plastic housing) in water on the stove, it does not move at 203. It just starts moving at 220 F. The problem is 2 things. There is a .250" (approx), gap between the end of the plunger rod end and the plastic housing that it has to sit against to open the valve. The plunger may be moving at 203 degrees, (I will find out), but it does not close the gap until about 220. Then it does not have enough travel left to open the valve past the 2mm thick seal to allow good flow. I am making a little metal rod to fill that gap now, (I want to just feel it when I put the thermostat in the housing), and I milled 3 .180" holes in the metal diaphragm to insure some flow at all times, (even when warming up. Have not tested it yet). With a thermostat that is not opening the way it should, the engine temp gauge does not go past normal, (like it is stuck for the last 35 degrees), and the engine will start shutting down to make less heat, with error messages,--so the coolant will not boil over. Go buy a thermostat for about $14.00 at a auto parts store, and boil it in water to see what it does. If it is not starting to move at the designated temp and does not open fully,---you probably have a gap between the rod and the plastic. A mechanic who only looks for codes only, (and that is the vast majority of them today),will not find this,---because the thermostat does not have a code.
I have a 2016 JK and have had only one of these issues. The roll out of the JL had at least 8 recalls in the first few months. Assuming you are not beating up your Wrangler off-road, why after years of engineering can't they make a better Jeep? Some of these issues like the leaks have been mentioned for years.
For me it has been evap codes due to a recall that broke the evap vent tube on top of the tank which dealer refused to fix, Casting sand in coolant system, engine pinging / preignition issue which I'm awaiting the engine to self destruct, and abs locking up front tires constantly. 2013 JKU here
I just discovered my napa blakamp thermostat does not open, (and I suspect the new one on my used Jeep is not either.). It is a 203 F. thermostat for the 2013 JK Wrangler, (which is hotter than I want really), and boiling the assembly, (thermostat and plastic housing) in water on the stove, it does not move at 203. It just starts moving at 220 F. The problem is 2 things. There is a .250" (approx), gap between the end of the plunger rod end and the plastic housing that it has to sit against to open the valve. The plunger may be moving at 203 degrees, (I will find out), but it does not close the gap until about 220. Then it does not have enough travel left to open the valve past the 2mm thick seal to allow good flow. I am making a little metal rod to fill that gap now, (I want to just feel it when I put the thermostat in the housing), and I milled 3 .180" holes in the metal diaphragm to insure some flow at all times, (even when warming up. Have not tested it yet). With a thermostat that is not opening the way it should, the engine temp gauge does not go past normal, (like it is stuck for the last 35 degrees), and the engine will start shutting down to make less heat, with error messages,--so the coolant will not boil over. Go buy a thermostat for about $14.00 at a auto parts store, and boil it in water to see what it does. If it is not starting to move at the designated temp and does not open fully,---you probably have a gap between the rod and the plastic. A mechanic who only looks for codes only, (and that is the vast majority of them today),will not find this,---because the thermostat does not have a code.
I only have 20,000 miles on my 2014 so it’s still new, however I have replaced the gas cap and have sporadic hot/cold issues, I don’t have any leaks however in the area indicated there is a squeaking sound that frustrates me. The only real complaint I would have is once I was caught in the ran with the top off and had to park it for a few days because water got into my steering wheel and caused a Christmas tree light show with my dash lights. When I took the Jeep in for routine maintenance they gave it back and said I didn’t need anything it was fine. They didn’t try to up-sale me and charged me only 70.00.
Should have bought an early model TJ. I spent 9 grand on a 99 TJ with 89,000 miles on it in 2014. It was garage kept, no rust, 4" Tereflex with 33" KM 2s. Lights, cargo net, upper doors for the soft top etc. It's been great.
I've had the gas cap issue, and the leaking issue. I just recently gave my Jeep a full tune up with all new spark plugs and coils. It's not Just Enough Essential Parts, it's Just Empty Every Pocket.
My buddy bought one. 70k miles looks new well taken care of. Transmission broke, rear seals,. The warranty company refused to pay for transmission saying he bought a lemon. What a waste of money all the way around. Get a Toyota truck (Tacoma)!!!!! And an atv. You will be much happier.
One thing I’m going to add to his gasket issue if you have to replace the gasket on the passenger side replace the rocker arms while you’re in there because the 3.6 has rocker arm problems Look up 3.6 L ticking you’ll see what I’m talking about
Great video, thanks. I drive a 2012 JK and have not had any issues other than that aggravating passenger door roof leak, and am I the only one having the wipers stroke 2-3x when putting the turn signal on? Hmmmm.....
Hi I've own a 2015 wrangler, and my headache has been with the hot/cold actuator. When you turn the dial for hot or cold on the dash, this is controlled by an electronic actuator deep in the dash. It was covered under warranty, and the dealer says it's a common problem. Thanks for the video
My 2014 has 125K miles only issues I’ve had aside from the front end is leaks and I had to replace the TIPM, other then that it’s been pretty good to me
My 2016 Rubicon has a problem when start up only on cold days. Put in reverse and dies but only interm. Of course it will not throw a code, or happen at Jeep place. Changed oxy sensors, other sensor on block, thermo sensor... Still happening. 83k and running great other than this. Of course door leaked bad but they fixed. Jeep states, can't fix without code, or catch it doing it.
Check for corrosion of all wiring, and especially where things bolt on the frame. Like ecu inside the cab. Moisture can cause corrosion, you go backwards which rattles ecu, bolted to frame... Bam, intetmingent stalling. Make sure you have zero wiring system corrosion ,anywhere.
Only had 38 K miles on 2015 2 door Willys, 1) chk engine light indicated bad fuel injector . 2) Sometimes would smell gas on start up and the engine idled rough . 3) Roof leaked a little bit after washing or raining .
My 2012 keep wrangler keeps over heating. I’ve replaced the thermostat the cooling sensor and the water pump at ideal it is fine but when you drive with AC on it starts to over heat of the blower is on more than half way
2011 JK sport. Auto trans failure at 55,000 miles O2 sensor 42,000 miles Heater core leaking close to 40,000 miles Front axle seal leak drivers side 42,000 miles. 99% Highway miles. Front brakes needed at 52,000 miles. Power steering pump ( noisy/ grinding) failure 58,000 miles Rear brakes due as well. Just a FYI to compare to. Thanks for the video.
Timely, I’ve been looking at the JK and wondering what I’d be getting into! So far it seems that the engine is solid if you take care of a few plastic items attached to it, and get a manual transmission. Thanks for the info. 👍👍🤠
Out of the 5 problems, I had 2 mentioned in this video on my 2015 JK. Luckily for now it’s minor. The door seal on the passenger side and a worn out seal on the gas cap.
Yup, had the door seal leak right where you said. Left carpet soaked all the time, finally took it out so the floor wouldn't rust until I can fix it somehow.
2008-2011 JK/U is very different than 2012 - 2018 JK/U 3.8 vs 3.6, 42RLE vs NAG1, I have both and prefer the 3.8 with the 42RLE light years ahead of the 3.6 and NAG1, feels so much more solid, so much easier to work on, can change all spark plugs easily, love the “distributor cap” style coil, cheap to replace, cost less than a single coil for the 3.6, and you need 6 of them ! The exhaust manifold a cinch to remove, no oil cooler plastic crap that leaks, yeah we have the EGR valve issue, but I can get that swapped out in an hour, vs 6 for an oil filter assembly.
Low fluid coolant levels in the engine. Check regularly, especially if using synthetic oil with 6k mile oil changes. Sometimes, other fluids get forgotten coolant needs topping off. Cylinder misfires due to a coil or bad injector has been troublesome too, especially if on 1-3 because these are under intake manifold. I was driving at night changing lanes and struck a small 2 x 4 board. It flipped up & hit the fuel tank causing an evap line to shear off because of a plastic petcock connected to fuel tank. This will fail smog so be weary of P0456 EVAP leak. Fuel tank and entire petcock system is plastic despite metal pan support.
one you may have missed is the oil filter housing goes about 90k miles. Big thing is do not bend the fuel line back on itself or you will catch fire and destroy your Jeep.
0 out of 5 on my 2018 JKU Sahara with 36,000 miles . Only problem I have is at high speeds I get a loud whining sound from the passenger seat. Seems to only happen when my wife is riding with me!🧐
While you're changing the valve cover gasket, go ahead and replace the PCV valve. Depending on mileage, this would also be a good time to change the spark plugs.
I owned my Jeep for 3 days and had my thermostat go bad🤦🏼♂️pretty sure the dealership turned that light off before selling it shop told me 250 to fix it but I changed it for $20 myself
I've had recurring coolant leaks and breaks. I'm on my 3rd radiator in my 2009. The first one lasted >100k, then had to get a cheapo because I was in a hurry. That one broke after about a year, so now I'm back with a Mopar radiator. Hopefully that one lasts another 100k like the first. All the other 2007-2011 Wranglers I know have also had coolant problems by now. And now I'm working on fuel injectors, which seems to be less common of an issue.
My number 1 problem is it kicking out of 1st gear. Happens enough to be annoying. The other thing is a sensor on either side of the catalytic converter. Don't know which one. It kicks on the Check Engine light, but goes off in a short time. Having said that, I LOVE MY JEEP! I may not always have this 2007 Jeep, but I will always have a Wrangler. I can't overstate how much fun it is to own this vehicle.
How about transmissions? First 60,000 miles mine went out. The garage replaced several things before replacing the transmission itself. Everyone of the parts was on backorder including the transmission itself .
This must be after they switched to the 3.6 liter V6. While I’ve dealt a few of these, I’ve never heard about the valve cover gasket having issues on the older 3.8 liter V6.
I've never heard it happen to a 3.6, gaskets are strong. However is is known to happen to the older 3.8s with higher mileage. Especially go the driver's side. It's just a dog engine and is what it is. 🤷
2014 Sahara Unlimited.. 105k mi mi My windows stop rolling down. Dealer changed the fuse box 110k mi Oil cooler and thermostat went was leaking 118k mi the gas cap was changed. Other than that it has been a great vehicle.. Side note ASC warranty Co paid for everything but the gas cap. I recommend
This video is 100% correct as I have had every single one of these problems lol. Fixed all but the gasket myself ( Oil cooler Assembly failed and had a dealership fix)
Blend door clicking TIPM Ball joints AC compressor Clock spring steering wheel CV Joints (not u joints on drive shafts) Headlight flicker Missing cylinder head bolt oil line feed O2 senors But I still love my jk…
Great thank you! Then I know where the weak spots in Jeep petrol engines are ... Diesel has less problem there ... Since the roof (corner) is known to have a leak ... There is no perfect car, no matter what brand. I'm thinking about Jeep Wrangler 2.8 or 2.2 diesel the whole time. The diesel machine has more power and more range than a gasoline engine. The growling diesel sound matches the jeep! Greetings from Germany :)
Sorry but the diesel does not have more power... it does have more torque and is a little more efficient but they are definitely not the more reliable engine.
I had the oil pan leak on my 09, found out this is fairly common also. Mine does leak very bad when I have the doors off, not sure why that is, I can put the doors back on and no leak.
2013 JK Sahara, I've had #1-2-4-5. Now just waiting for #3 to come home 🤣 But hey, it's such a great car that'll take you through anything, can't complain.
your top 5 are different than mine.... multiple trans issues, bad tipm, enginition switch key component issue, windows not rolling up. doge just jacked this vehicle up.
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Start checking you brake lines by the wheels.
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My main problem with it was the payment. Every month I had a problem with it.
😂
Lol
Damn that's a good one! Thank you!
didu ever drive the thing in the rain& NOT CURSE when you opened the door ?
JEEP DESIGNED A ROOF RIVER 👎🏼 idiots
Hahahahahahahahaha.
This guy has THE most relaxing voice, wow.
No lie I'm sleepy now. Lmbo
You notice too, huh. Lol!
He relaxes any problem away...
like Mr. Rogers
Which means he can probably go shell in 10 seconds flat. Excellent video btw
Bought a 2017 JK Sahara from a Ford dealership 72,000 miles .Really excited for my first Wrangler. Got done the paperwork about to drive it off the lot, then BING!! Check engine came on. They told me take it home they will pick it up, provide a loaner and fix it. Ended up being valve cover gasket. So far everything the dealership told me they would do, they certainly have done. I understand when you buy a used vehicle these things happen. Cautiously optimistic, moving forward.
Oil cooler/filter housing is definitely one that should be on the list... mine gave out at 108k miles... very common issue
So from my experience;
-At about 70,000 miles or so your driver’s side header will crack. Same place same crack every time on OEM headers. Something wrong with the cast iron molds they used to make them.
-The radiator will always spring a leak at some point. This problem seems to be consistent on both OEM and aftermarket radiators so hopefully you just get a good one.
-All the MOPAR gaskets are unfortunately made by MOPAR so they will all get hard, crack and leak. Main leaks for both 3.8L and 3.6L are valve covers, upper oil pan, and front crank seal. And if you have a 3.6L expect the rear main seal to leak and the oil filter housing to leak as well.
-Expect all lines that use a crimp on fitting, to connect a hard line to a soft line, to leak. Especially on the transmission cooler lines and power steering lines.
-Expect the nylon bushings that connect your shift levers, both the automatic shit lever and the 4wd shift lever, to break. There are 4 total. They connect the levers to the cables and the cables to the shift arms on the transmission and transfer case perspectively. They dry rot and break.
-If you buy a new Jeep, do yourself a favor and tighten the castle nuts down on your balljoints. From the factory they are always too loose and you might experience death wobble. The manufacturer torques the balljoints down when it’s just a bare rolling frame with no weight. After final assembly the vehicle weighs a lot more than it did during the initial torquing of the balljoints. The joints will compress and become loose.
-Being that it has a Chrysler motor with hydraulic lifters, you will get the infamous “Hemi Tick”. Don’t worry. Never really progresses to more than just an annoying tick at startup on the small 3.8L and 3.6L. Not really worth replacing the lifters because it will just come right back. You’ll eventually hear it at startup, but once you build oil pressure and the engine warms up, it goes away. And it’s not like in the Hemi engines where it will eat the lobes off your camshaft. Just do your oil changes and maybe run some marvel mystery oil through your engine every now and then to help bust off gunk and clear the oil ports in the lifters so they can build pressure and actually dampen again. The tick is just the slop in the lifters, slapping around until oil fills them up to hydraulically dampen them.
-The rest is just normal wear and tear that every vehicle will get after a long life on the road. But that just about covers the vehicle specific problems.
This guy listed every problem I currently have with my Jeep 🙃
1-You don’t need to take the dash apparent to change the heater core. There is another way and you can find it on you tube and the forum boards. 2- clean the O2 sensors with carb cleaner. You don’t need to change them. I have been doing this and I have 250,000 KLM on my jeep JK.
Hi Jacko Packo, would you have any insight into what I could try for a engine trouble code P0204. Fuel injector 4 Circuit? I have a 2017 jeep rubicon that only has 63,233kms on it.
What year is your jk
I also found with the water leaks issue on my daughters Jeep that after installing a new door seal I was able to adjust the hinges to get the door to close a little tighter and that helped stop the leaks too.
You could have just taken the doors off and bought her a rain suit
i think my jeep needs this done, i have replaced door seals, b pillar muckets and foam along the top. What is the best way to adjust the door without getting it out of wack too bad?
yep most of the time i have noticed its the door that is sagging causing a leak on front of door and top rear.
I own a 6 speed 2012 Wrangler JKU. Currently 141,000 Miles
Things I've had fixed: T-Stat, Brake Hoses and Calipers. About to swap a starter.
That's it. I'm really happy with it.
2010 jeep wrangler, heater core cut tubes under dash slide out,repair with heater hose and 4 hose clamps . pcm : 2010 TSB needs to be reflashed ,you will get false codes .At least 2 egr valves, broken valve spring 70,000 miles. Roof leaks after hard rain. Always buy oem, they don't like auto zone sensors. Tried 3 auto zone sensors didn't work,bought OEM bingo! Also intake manifold bolt by number one cylinder breaks in head for no reason, gotta remove exhaust manifold and head to remove. There's more but ,not enough time. Awesome vehicle to drive but before u buy one,ask your self, do I really like working on vehicles. Great video. PEACE
Based off my time on forums and fixing my 2015 wrangler and other wranglers of about the same age, the main problems are thermostats, oil filter housing/cooler/sensors assembly leaking oil into the valley of the block, oil pumps stuck in high or low pressure mode, radiator leaks, and hydraulic valve lash adjusters or cam followers failing.
Good Video!
problems I have had.
1, gas cap, $14.00
2, tire pressure sensors (2) failed $ 130.00
3, Fuel injector (1) $180.00
4, Cracked, chipped windshield. $280.00(replaced)
MY jeep 2015 with 69k.
But these were relatively small problems, Still Love my Jeep Wrangler.
+Papi Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have a 2013 Wrangler and haven't had any of these issues. I have had 2 heater actuator failures and 1 brake caliper failure, and that's all. I'm at just over 100K miles. I didn't buy it for its reliability record, I bought it because they are the coolest, most fun to drive vehicles on and off the road.
I don't know why people hate on them so much. I recently picked up a heavily modded manual one and with no doors on the trail it feels like a massive go kart/rc car
Off road, maybe. On road, not even close. A jeep is more fun to drive on road than a Lambo, Porsche, basically any RWD manual car? FOH lol
For me, thermostat went on 2 Jks between 50-60k miles. Water pump was a common failure out of the factory for early Pentastar engines; most fixed under warranty.
I just discovered my napa blakamp thermostat does not open, (and I suspect the new one on my used Jeep is not either.). It is a 203 F. thermostat for the 2013 JK Wrangler, (which is hotter than I want really), and boiling the assembly, (thermostat and plastic housing) in water on the stove, it does not move at 203. It just starts moving at 220 F. The problem is 2 things. There is a .250" (approx), gap between the end of the plunger rod end and the plastic housing that it has to sit against to open the valve. The plunger may be moving at 203 degrees, (I will find out), but it does not close the gap until about 220. Then it does not have enough travel left to open the valve past the 2mm thick seal to allow good flow. I am making a little metal rod to fill that gap now, (I want to just feel it when I put the thermostat in the housing), and I milled 3 .180" holes in the metal diaphragm to insure some flow at all times, (even when warming up. Have not tested it yet).
With a thermostat that is not opening the way it should, the engine temp gauge does not go past normal, (like it is stuck for the last 35 degrees), and the engine will start shutting down to make less heat, with error messages,--so the coolant will not boil over. Go buy a thermostat for about $14.00 at a auto parts store, and boil it in water to see what it does. If it is not starting to move at the designated temp and does not open fully,---you probably have a gap between the rod and the plastic.
A mechanic who only looks for codes only, (and that is the vast majority of them today),will not find this,---because the thermostat does not have a code.
Yes I’ve literally dealt with EVERY SINGLE ONE of these problems🤦🏻♀️but I’m never giving up my Jeep😂
I have had all 5 of these problems. The jeep has 200k miles so the old lady earned it.
I bought my jk in Stuttgart, Germany for $5,900 and we have been driving him all over the world. He has gotten us home every time. I have had all these issues. The 02 sensor was actually completely loose/dirty battery terminals, weird it even started. The heater core, I swapped the hoses because a bunch of online forums said it would help, it help burn a hole with the egr tube in the unshielded one and burn a hole in the shielded one with the exhaust manifold. We still love him, we named him Pepe because the interior was stinky when we bought him.
I haven't had any of this, 2008 JK, 110,000 kilomètres. February 2021.
I've had the front-end serviced with ball-joints and shocks after the infamous death-shake.
I had terrible rear-brake wearing and ultimately had to have the calipers changed.
I've had roof leaks which led to the front floor pan needing repairs.
Door hinge bushings.
Fan and thermostat.
But apart from that, my service record is very good.
I had a 1997 TJ from new. Loved it. Nothing is better to drive on a nice sunny day. But it was the biggest junk pile I ever owned. Major water leaks through the cowl that ended up with floor pan full of water on rainy days, severe body rust perforations after only 4 years, 5th gear in manual transmission went out, coolant hoses failed in short time leaving coolant all over the road, radiator failures, water pump failures, major suspension failures, and on and on. I only owned it for seven years with 71,000 on the odometer, lol. And I was very light on it, I didn’t abuse it, I didn’t off road it, I didn’t lift it. All that despite it being garaged for most of its life! If the reliability ever got better I might consider another one...maybe.
That's INSANE! Had a YJ back in 94. Loud choppy ride.. swore I'd never buy another. I have a 2015 in mint condition with 7200 miles. It sits in my garage most of the time waiting for an adventure. Fun to drive but next to useless. I prefer driving my astro.
I replaced my heater core by going through the glove box. There is a good video on UA-cam on how to do it. You have to cut a couple of brackets but afterwards you can pop rivet them back together. It took me several hours because I went very slowly and carefully but in the end, it was not that hard.
+Mark G Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I salute your bravery
His voice makes me feel good about my issues..love it
I just bought a 2015 wrangler sport with 105,000 Kms on it. I know nothing about Jeep’s . I just know I wanted one for years as a second vehicle. Great video , thanks for taking the time to bake it.
Thanks I'm on my 2nd Wrangler :) Leaking, heating core tips appreciated! But I will never give this vehicle up! Head on collision in April, walked away with a dent; my crash bar is a beast!
+Kimberly Poole Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Mine too!!
Haha I got rear ended and pushed into the car in front of me. The trailer hitch took the impact, and my aftermarket front bumper barely had a scratch. Both cars had to be towed with extensive damage, I drove away
Only one of these I've had with my 2015 JKU is both sides of the roof leak. Other issue I'm taking care of right now is the Oil Filter Cooler leak. It appears to be a very common issue that you may want to add to the list. Replacement is a pretty involved process. While doing it I also discovered the heater hose under the one you pointed at was bulged and had to be replaced. That hose goes to the Oil Filter Cooler. Thanks for the heads up on the other items.
Yeah, I'm shocked this is not on the list. This is probably THE most notorious problem. Just had to have mine replaced. Then, 2 days after, a front brake flex hose.
Wow the guy is spot on with common issues. I have had all of these issues with my 2012!
Good video. One very common problem that I feel should have been in your list is the corroding aluminum door hinges on the JKs. If you didn't know, it's actually not rust, it is galvanic corrosion due to the aluminum hinge being in contact with the steel door. The corrosion occurs on the sacrificial aluminum hinge. This was somewhat corrected in late 2015 by putting some type of a spacer between the two parts.
Dealing with a small evap leak and gas cap light on my daughter's 2007 JK right now. Tried greasing the gas cap seal and then replacing the gas cap, but neither of those things worked.Just got a replacement purge valve in that I'm going to try. That is also a common problem. If that doesn't work I'll try the evap leak detection pump that you point out in your video.
+BrewCityRider Thanks for the tip!
We have a 2011 Wrangler 2dr. Sport. Very satisfied and still love it! It has 159K on the odometer plus it has been towed all over America behind our motor home. I was a maintenance chief in the Air Force so this Wrangler has been extremely well maintained!
Of the 5 most common failures with our series of Wranglers that we have experienced with ours is the gas cap/evap system issue. It has its 3rd gas cap and at one time had to go back to the dealer for extensive fuel tank and evap system repair. A nice $2K repair bill. But at least no more “Ck Engine Lights”
Right now it is at our repair shop waiting in-line (we are 29th) for a Chrysler rebuilt 3.8 engine. It started over heating a month ago. I replaced the thermostat with the MOPAR thermostat ….. did not fix. Then a test of the coolant showed exhaust gas contamination in the coolant!
Sorry this has gone on so long but we have a long, successful history with ours. Currently it has a dash full of those cute little plastic ducks. We have always participated in the “Wrangler Wave”! We have even studied the dynasty of the Jeep Wrangler historical vehicle. At the top of the Wrangler hierarchy is the 1941 Wrangler, NOT your brand new Wrangler off the showroom floor! Take your shiny new Wrangler out and drive it in the rain and mud for a few days and you moved it up the list slightly!
Anyway …… we love our Wrangler and love being a Wrangler family. We just recently became a 2-Jeep family! We just bought a new Compass “Red” edition.
Wrangler Wave”!
+@davepowell3001 Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Both left and right side Cam Positioning Sensors , and the Crankshaft angle sensors were bad on mine...Engine kept stalling out on my 2013 Sahara Unlimited. I replaced both cam sensors (@ $35 each) and the crank shaft sensor ($25) , now it runs normally , no loss of power , or stalling issues .
Haven’t had any of these issues with my 2012, but I did have an issue with the oil filter housing cracking and leaking. I replaced it with the newer design from the 2015-. Was pretty involved but got it done myself.
I also cracked mine doing my own oil and filter changes. My mechanic who changed it out for me told me that the oil filter house is extremely easy to crack and recommended that I only tighten it finger tight without a wrench when changing the filter.
2017 Wrangler owner. Condensation from AC leaks into the front drivers side of the cab. Been doing that since I drove it off the lot. Took it in several times for this, dealership just said they couldn't find anything. Shouldn't have to wet vac the carpet ofter a long drive.
This video deserves to be called best unintentional ASMR this guys voice is so relaxing !
Got an 07, with a little over 230,000. My 02 censors are bad. But aside that, it’s still a pretty good old jeep. Everything still works and still runs good. Think I’ll keep it.
2014 JKU. 130k miles, tow a lot (pontoon, jet ski, snowmobiles and quad) and so far, the only problem has been an hvac actuator and oil filter housing seals going bad. Fixed both myself for
I have a 15 jk with 135k, I’m the original owner. It’s been a good jeep. But I’ve had a front hub bearing, clock spring, vacuum pump deteriorate, hvac blend door actuator, intermediate shaft and blower motor makes a noise but still works. Pretty common stuff for a jk. I replaced the tie rod ends and pitman arm but honestly I consider those a wear item. I also live in NE Ohio and drive through the rust belt. Oh and I crack the windshield all the time.
Just traded mine. Bought it brand new in 2017 put 130,000 miles on it every other month of 2024 was another $1000 job. The most consistent problem I had since purchase was battery drain. Who knows how many batteries I put it in over the years. But it was a ridiculous amount. Even after all that money I put it in this year the dealership looked at it and sent it to auction.
adding another two common problems: speed (ABS) sensors, most of the time corroded wires or connectors and second, the oil adapter (cooler) starts to leak oil.
This...and coils
I had my ABS and traction control lights come on randomly at times
2015 JKU with 98k miles, had oil cooler, O2 sensors, and gas cap so far. Despite it's issues still less problems than my wife's Mercedes, and more fun to drive to.
Emergency brake. Also if you have the navigation radio the navigation works sometimes and sometimes it doesn’t. Had the whole unit replaced. Still doesn’t make any difference. Definitely had to have the heater core replaced this is a 2013 Rubicon two door
Death wobble...replaced steering stabilizer shock with a late 90's model shock...yep. it fits and it doesn't need to be replaced every 10,000 miles. 💪🏽😎
I had a 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara soft top. I had SO many problems with that Jeep. Two engines later, I got rid of that nightmare.
Why would you swap out two motors? Did the oil run dry on both motors?
Just bought a jk 2012 with 140,000 thousand and I'm about to change the oil switch and apparently it had leak issues, but I LOVE THIS JEEP IS MY FIRST 😊😊😊
We put men on the Moon 50 years ago, so why are gaskets still leaking and heater cores going bad.
I have a 2014 and have replaced the heater core 2 times. Going to take his advice and start replacing the coolant. Also the passenger door leaks every time it rains.
I've faced all five issues with my 2011 JK. After replacing them once, I haven't had to do it again. The gas cap and evap canister problems surfaced after six years of use, while the others occurred over the course of 12 years.
+@felixleon8750 Thanks for the feedback!
Word to the wise, if the oxygen sensor fails you have to replace with MOPAR sensors, I tried replacing with autozone Bosh sensors but it would not read them and the check engine light never came off and eventually the Jeep rode rough. I put MOPAR sensors and immediately rode better, and the light came off after a 100 miles
I would strongly recommend that you replace your coolant with Preston 50/50. Dexcool separates and clogs the system causing leaks in weak areas. I worked for a company that manufactured all automotive radiators. In my years there I seen it all. Every jeep I’ve owned I went with castrol gtx synblend 5w20. And immediately changed the coolant. In basic terms you want the green color coolant. Buy 50/50 premix. Calcium deposits from tap water will corrode your water pump.
2014 Sahara 85k miles repairs thus far:
-Oil filter housing/cooler/sensors replacement, take entire top of the engine off, new valve cover gaskets etc
-ESIM valve, EVAP charcoal canister, gas cap replacement
- new alternator, all pulleys & belts related
- new thermostat
- new rear drive shaft, my fault towing too heavy load
- brake rotors & pads
- led headlights
That’s it so far.
I have a 2013 JK and have had to rep;ace the cps twice! Never even heard of a cps till the Jeep just quit. Very easy and cheap fix but a real head scratcher to diagnose.
Bought my JK brand new in 2015 it had the water leak. Was super super frustrating.
I just discovered my napa blakamp thermostat does not open, (and I suspect the new one on my used Jeep is not either.). It is a 203 F. thermostat for the 2013 JK Wrangler, (which is hotter than I want really), and boiling the assembly, (thermostat and plastic housing) in water on the stove, it does not move at 203. It just starts moving at 220 F. The problem is 2 things. There is a .250" (approx), gap between the end of the plunger rod end and the plastic housing that it has to sit against to open the valve. The plunger may be moving at 203 degrees, (I will find out), but it does not close the gap until about 220. Then it does not have enough travel left to open the valve past the 2mm thick seal to allow good flow. I am making a little metal rod to fill that gap now, (I want to just feel it when I put the thermostat in the housing), and I milled 3 .180" holes in the metal diaphragm to insure some flow at all times, (even when warming up. Have not tested it yet).
With a thermostat that is not opening the way it should, the engine temp gauge does not go past normal, (like it is stuck for the last 35 degrees), and the engine will start shutting down to make less heat, with error messages,--so the coolant will not boil over. Go buy a thermostat for about $14.00 at a auto parts store, and boil it in water to see what it does. If it is not starting to move at the designated temp and does not open fully,---you probably have a gap between the rod and the plastic.
A mechanic who only looks for codes only, (and that is the vast majority of them today),will not find this,---because the thermostat does not have a code.
It sounds like it was frustrating Mike.
I have a 2016 JK and have had only one of these issues. The roll out of the JL had at least 8 recalls in the first few months. Assuming you are not beating up your Wrangler off-road, why after years of engineering can't they make a better Jeep? Some of these issues like the leaks have been mentioned for years.
For me it has been evap codes due to a recall that broke the evap vent tube on top of the tank which dealer refused to fix, Casting sand in coolant system, engine pinging / preignition issue which I'm awaiting the engine to self destruct, and abs locking up front tires constantly. 2013 JKU here
I just discovered my napa blakamp thermostat does not open, (and I suspect the new one on my used Jeep is not either.). It is a 203 F. thermostat for the 2013 JK Wrangler, (which is hotter than I want really), and boiling the assembly, (thermostat and plastic housing) in water on the stove, it does not move at 203. It just starts moving at 220 F. The problem is 2 things. There is a .250" (approx), gap between the end of the plunger rod end and the plastic housing that it has to sit against to open the valve. The plunger may be moving at 203 degrees, (I will find out), but it does not close the gap until about 220. Then it does not have enough travel left to open the valve past the 2mm thick seal to allow good flow. I am making a little metal rod to fill that gap now, (I want to just feel it when I put the thermostat in the housing), and I milled 3 .180" holes in the metal diaphragm to insure some flow at all times, (even when warming up. Have not tested it yet).
With a thermostat that is not opening the way it should, the engine temp gauge does not go past normal, (like it is stuck for the last 35 degrees), and the engine will start shutting down to make less heat, with error messages,--so the coolant will not boil over. Go buy a thermostat for about $14.00 at a auto parts store, and boil it in water to see what it does. If it is not starting to move at the designated temp and does not open fully,---you probably have a gap between the rod and the plastic.
A mechanic who only looks for codes only, (and that is the vast majority of them today),will not find this,---because the thermostat does not have a code.
I only have 20,000 miles on my 2014 so it’s still new, however I have replaced the gas cap and have sporadic hot/cold issues, I don’t have any leaks however in the area indicated there is a squeaking sound that frustrates me. The only real complaint I would have is once I was caught in the ran with the top off and had to park it for a few days because water got into my steering wheel and caused a Christmas tree light show with my dash lights. When I took the Jeep in for routine maintenance they gave it back and said I didn’t need anything it was fine. They didn’t try to up-sale me and charged me only 70.00.
the squeaking come from the metal retainer clips that hold the plastic cover to your front roll bar.
Should have bought an early model TJ. I spent 9 grand on a 99 TJ with 89,000 miles on it in 2014. It was garage kept, no rust, 4" Tereflex with 33" KM 2s. Lights, cargo net, upper doors for the soft top etc. It's been great.
Looking at a JK for the wife now. Good info here. Also, dude has a very calm and assuring tone. Thanks 1A.
I've had the gas cap issue, and the leaking issue. I just recently gave my Jeep a full tune up with all new spark plugs and coils. It's not Just Enough Essential Parts, it's Just Empty Every Pocket.
Driving mine Jeep Wrangler for 6 years and no problem running like new oil change and that’s it American made not to many people believe it….💯
My buddy bought one. 70k miles looks new well taken care of. Transmission broke, rear seals,. The warranty company refused to pay for transmission saying he bought a lemon. What a waste of money all the way around. Get a Toyota truck (Tacoma)!!!!! And an atv. You will be much happier.
On the EVAP code, another common cause is because of a broken vent nipple on top of the gas tank
2016 Unlimited Sahara with 94k bought brand new, I’ve had 1 out the 5. I hope it is a long ways before the other 4 get to me
My problem is cracked windshields. I will be replacing my 3rd one since 2014.
Yep mine eats a windshield every year on #9
@@Trump985 .. I'm only on the 4th one.
One thing I’m going to add to his gasket issue if you have to replace the gasket on the passenger side replace the rocker arms while you’re in there because the 3.6 has rocker arm problems Look up 3.6 L ticking you’ll see what I’m talking about
same for me , my mechanic estimate $3,500 . Is big problem
Great video, thanks. I drive a 2012 JK and have not had any issues other than that aggravating passenger door roof leak, and am I the only one having the wipers stroke 2-3x when putting the turn signal on? Hmmmm.....
Hi
I've own a 2015 wrangler, and my headache has been with the
hot/cold actuator. When you turn the dial for hot or cold on the dash, this is controlled by an electronic actuator deep in the dash. It was covered under warranty, and the dealer says it's a common problem.
Thanks for the video
+Stuart B Thanks for checking us out and for the feedback!
Very common
My 2014 has 125K miles only issues I’ve had aside from the front end is leaks and I had to replace the TIPM, other then that it’s been pretty good to me
My 2016 Rubicon has a problem when start up only on cold days. Put in reverse and dies but only interm. Of course it will not throw a code, or happen at Jeep place. Changed oxy sensors, other sensor on block, thermo sensor... Still happening. 83k and running great other than this. Of course door leaked bad but they fixed. Jeep states, can't fix without code, or catch it doing it.
Check for corrosion of all wiring, and especially where things bolt on the frame. Like ecu inside the cab. Moisture can cause corrosion, you go backwards which rattles ecu, bolted to frame... Bam, intetmingent stalling. Make sure you have zero wiring system corrosion ,anywhere.
I have a 2015 Sahara with the 3.6l v6. At high rpm’s I hear a loud whining sound…almost like a supercharger sound. Does anyone know what this may be?
As a wrangler owner, this is 100% accurate, I have 3/5 of these issues.
+Ali Roustaian Thanks for the feedback!
my wife and I both have 2014 wranglers. Both have had cracks in the thermostat housing. Hers is on number two.
Only had 38 K miles on 2015 2 door Willys,
1) chk engine light indicated bad fuel injector .
2) Sometimes would smell gas on start up and the engine idled rough .
3) Roof leaked a little bit after washing or raining .
My 2012 keep wrangler keeps over heating. I’ve replaced the thermostat the cooling sensor and the water pump at ideal it is fine but when you drive with AC on it starts to over heat of the blower is on more than half way
Yup. They had to replace my heater core after a couple years. Thank God I had max care warranty.
2014 JKU, 2 heater cores, both heads, 2 radiators, ABS sensor, spark plug coil... 217K, max care all the way.
I’m thinking of buying one has 90k miles what it max care warranty
2011 JK sport.
Auto trans failure at 55,000 miles
O2 sensor 42,000 miles
Heater core leaking close to 40,000 miles
Front axle seal leak drivers side 42,000 miles. 99% Highway miles.
Front brakes needed at 52,000 miles.
Power steering pump ( noisy/ grinding) failure
58,000 miles
Rear brakes due as well.
Just a FYI to compare to. Thanks for the video.
Timely, I’ve been looking at the JK and wondering what I’d be getting into! So far it seems that the engine is solid if you take care of a few plastic items attached to it, and get a manual transmission. Thanks for the info. 👍👍🤠
Out of the 5 problems, I had 2 mentioned in this video on my 2015 JK. Luckily for now it’s minor. The door seal on the passenger side and a worn out seal on the gas cap.
Yup, had the door seal leak right where you said. Left carpet soaked all the time, finally took it out so the floor wouldn't rust until I can fix it somehow.
+Mark Walker Thanks for the feedback!
I just bought a 2013 Rubicon and this video helps with things to watch for.
2008-2011 JK/U is very different than 2012 - 2018 JK/U 3.8 vs 3.6, 42RLE vs NAG1, I have both and prefer the 3.8 with the 42RLE light years ahead of the 3.6 and NAG1, feels so much more solid, so much easier to work on, can change all spark plugs easily, love the “distributor cap” style coil, cheap to replace, cost less than a single coil for the 3.6, and you need 6 of them ! The exhaust manifold a cinch to remove, no oil cooler plastic crap that leaks, yeah we have the EGR valve issue, but I can get that swapped out in an hour, vs 6 for an oil filter assembly.
What about the lifter problem that many have had? Thanks...Jim
No mention of the costly Oil Cooler/Filter Housing leak common on the Pentastar V6. ~$200 part requiring significant labor to access and replace.
Low fluid coolant levels in the engine. Check regularly, especially if using synthetic oil with 6k mile oil changes. Sometimes, other fluids get forgotten coolant needs topping off. Cylinder misfires due to a coil or bad injector has been troublesome too, especially if on 1-3 because these are under intake manifold. I was driving at night changing lanes and struck a small 2 x 4 board. It flipped up & hit the fuel tank causing an evap line to shear off because of a plastic petcock connected to fuel tank. This will fail smog so be weary of P0456 EVAP leak. Fuel tank and entire petcock system is plastic despite metal pan support.
one you may have missed is the oil filter housing goes about 90k miles. Big thing is do not bend the fuel line back on itself or you will catch fire and destroy your Jeep.
Yeah mine went out around 100k. Replaced with newer design from 2015.
Mine went at around 55000miles :/
I have changed the wheel speed sensor four times. The oil cooler, and now I’m dealing with the ABS module, which is out of stock nationwide.
0 out of 5 on my 2018 JKU Sahara with 36,000 miles .
Only problem I have is at high speeds I get a loud whining sound from the passenger seat. Seems to only happen when my wife is riding with me!🧐
haha
This is hilarious 🤣
LOL
While you're changing the valve cover gasket, go ahead and replace the PCV valve. Depending on mileage, this would also be a good time to change the spark plugs.
I owned my Jeep for 3 days and had my thermostat go bad🤦🏼♂️pretty sure the dealership turned that light off before selling it shop told me 250 to fix it but I changed it for $20 myself
I've had recurring coolant leaks and breaks. I'm on my 3rd radiator in my 2009. The first one lasted >100k, then had to get a cheapo because I was in a hurry. That one broke after about a year, so now I'm back with a Mopar radiator. Hopefully that one lasts another 100k like the first. All the other 2007-2011 Wranglers I know have also had coolant problems by now.
And now I'm working on fuel injectors, which seems to be less common of an issue.
My number 1 problem is it kicking out of 1st gear. Happens enough to be annoying. The other thing is a sensor on either side of the catalytic converter. Don't know which one. It kicks on the Check Engine light, but goes off in a short time.
Having said that, I LOVE MY JEEP! I may not always have this 2007 Jeep, but I will always have a Wrangler. I can't overstate how much fun it is to own this vehicle.
How about transmissions? First 60,000 miles mine went out. The garage replaced several things before replacing the transmission itself. Everyone of the parts was on backorder including the transmission itself .
This must be after they switched to the 3.6 liter V6. While I’ve dealt a few of these, I’ve never heard about the valve cover gasket having issues on the older 3.8 liter V6.
I’ve got some minor seepage on my drivers side valve cover on my 3.8. Nothing serious. 180,000 km on it now.
I've never heard it happen to a 3.6, gaskets are strong. However is is known to happen to the older 3.8s with higher mileage. Especially go the driver's side. It's just a dog engine and is what it is. 🤷
Nailed all of these! I have an 08 with lifetime powertrain warranty
2014 Sahara Unlimited..
105k mi mi My windows stop rolling down. Dealer changed the fuse box
110k mi Oil cooler and thermostat went was leaking
118k mi the gas cap was changed. Other than that it has been a great vehicle..
Side note ASC warranty Co paid for everything but the gas cap. I recommend
Cracked headers are very common, along with radiator leaks.
+erikdfier Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Very common is a powerful statement. I would say it’s known to happen but these story’s are common with aluminum engine blocks.
I changed the radiator on mine
This video is 100% correct as I have had every single one of these problems lol. Fixed all but the gasket myself ( Oil cooler Assembly failed and had a dealership fix)
Blend door clicking
TIPM
Ball joints
AC compressor
Clock spring steering wheel
CV Joints (not u joints on drive shafts)
Headlight flicker
Missing cylinder head bolt oil line feed
O2 senors
But I still love my jk…
You left out the oil filter casings which is pretty common to leak and occasionally the oil pressure sensor goes bad as well.. thanks for the video
Great thank you! Then I know where the weak spots in Jeep petrol engines are ... Diesel has less problem there ... Since the roof (corner) is known to have a leak ... There is no perfect car, no matter what brand. I'm thinking about Jeep Wrangler 2.8 or 2.2 diesel the whole time. The diesel machine has more power and more range than a gasoline engine. The growling diesel sound matches the jeep!
Greetings from Germany :)
Sorry but the diesel does not have more power... it does have more torque and is a little more efficient but they are definitely not the more reliable engine.
I had the oil pan leak on my 09, found out this is fairly common also. Mine does leak very bad when I have the doors off, not sure why that is, I can put the doors back on and no leak.
2013 JK Sahara, I've had #1-2-4-5. Now just waiting for #3 to come home 🤣 But hey, it's such a great car that'll take you through anything, can't complain.
your top 5 are different than mine.... multiple trans issues, bad tipm, enginition switch key component issue, windows not rolling up. doge just jacked this vehicle up.