How to hoist your climbing partner (assisted and unassisted), climbing self rescue.
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- Опубліковано 6 кві 2020
- All about hoisting a rock climber, assisted and unassisted on a regular trad belay and on a guide plate belay device. Useful for helping your mate up a tough move or as a building block to self rescue.
A tricky one to film on your own at home...!
Please do fire away with any questions...
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Let us know if you persuaded a loved one to be your hoisting partner!
Guide mode was a nice bonus ! Thanks man, keep up the good work !
Cheers, will do!
Love my DMM Revolver for my prussik loop. That little bit of efficiency helps out a lot when hauling.
They are good little things :)
Aha this one is super useful as well, loving these emergency skill ones.
Sorry, I didnt see this before I put a comment on your other video.
Spot on again Jez.... 👍👍 thank you. I’ve done a lot of hauling as part of a rescue team and it’s hard work even with Gucci ID’s, Pulleys and shunts!
Oh to have the Gucci kit...! Like you say hard enough even with pulleys etc!
@JBMountainSkills Hello. Thnx for the very useful content, I am learning a lot with ypur channel. Still, I have doubts about how to haul your partner or abseiling down to them in a traverse route situation. Is there any tips or videos you could show us? Thanks a lot. Keep the great work!!
Another great video JB! Thank you
George Hawksworth pleasure 👊
That’s a super impressive video today Jez 👍👏
Cheers Nick!
Love watching your vids mate! Here's a tip. Often if I'm top-belaying a beginner climber who looks like they're about to struggle, I just whip two prussics on the climber's rope and set up an unassisted z-haul. More relaxing if they want to flaff about, easy to assist if they need some help, and keeps me current on setting up a z-haul if needed for a rescue.
That can work really well :)
I got stuck at boulder ruckle this time last year and wish my climbing buddy at the top had known this!
Not an ideal place to be stuck! How did you get out?!
We may have called the coastguard...
Basically i couldn't climb out of the room at the bottom, fell off, hit the floor, realised I didn't want to do that over and over again so my mate abseiled down, tried to pull the rope, through to lead up to the top again but it got jammed in the rock at top. So he prussiked up to the top and got help. My prussiking technique made me away alot so we decided again me also going up. What an adventure!
so clear so helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Jez… I’m late on this one but wanted to ask with her first assisted hoist, don’t you have zero braking on the climber.. I,e. Your 100% trusting the Prussic. If that failed you’d only have two crabbiness as pulleys to help you brake the climber
I wonder, like you said if your partner is unconscious you first have to go down to check on them, wouldnt it be a possibility to attach the carabiner to them yourself so you dont need the extra prussik?, I guess it would be a faster hoist
Yep, that could work as long as there's enough rope :)
Brilliant videos, I am finding these really useful!
Quick novice question: If you don't have enough slack at the belay stance to get the rope down to your partner (they've just started a long pitch that's most of the rope length), are there any other options available for hoisting/assisting? Thanks!
Glad you like them!
You'd have to start with an unassisted hoist :)
Another great video! Cheers. Any thoughts on managing that 'dead rope'? Of course, we can't drop it as then our partner (or our heavy rucksack) would just be on pursiks. Do we do just that and not drop it
What you are doing now feels great in a horizontal #stayhome and practice (or crevasse rescue!), but on a hanging or stepper climbing stance, I remember questioning myself..
Cheers!
Do you mean what do you do with the dead rope when hauling away? The dead rope is what you're pulling on, so as long as you don't let go of that, you're all good!
Sorry if I've misunderstood the question!
@@JBMountainSkills 👍Yep that dead rope we are hauling on. It just feels like that rope could be easier to loose then a 'normal' dead rope. I can imagine an aid climber wanting to put in a redirect above them ( if belay in reach).
I'll focus on the dont let go tactic and continue to play on my sling mountain!
2:42 I thought my Pc died lol
Just tried the unassisted hoist on guide mode but ran the rope up to a carabiner through the shelf. It seemed easier to pull down instead of up but don't have enough resistance to fully check the system. Any comments Jez?
Do you mean the braking strand goes down to a Prusik, then back up to a krab on the shelf and you pull that down? If so yes thats cool, you can even clip yourself to the strand via another Prusik and use your weight to pull down.
@@JBMountainSkills nice one, I like the idea of using my own bodyweight, especially my new lockdown bodyweight. Will have to wait until we can go out to try this one.
If you're on your own, realistically wouldn't you want to add another advantage with how hard it is to haul with a 3:1?
Richard Hazelby if you have pulleys yes I would definitely consider it, for any distance. With krabs it’s a tough one with the friction they add. I’d probably be more inclined to think about something like a hip hoist.
@@JBMountainSkills We used it out in Canada over the summer with the guides over there, definitely found it easier with the added advantage either using the rope or a 240 sling for adding the advantage. Not sure I've used a hip hoist, before.
I go on enough in my vids, imagine how long they'd be if I went even further..!
@@JBMountainSkills couple minutes more maybe 🤔
Richard Hazelby not really, to keep things clear and understandable you’d have to separate it a little. Remember these vids can never be completely exhaustive, and not is it the aim. Having taught this to beginners a lot, it makes sense to me to draw the line at this standard set up. Once people have that dialled they can progress their skills based on some prior experience.
What make, length, is your prusik loop JB?
60cm simond sewn prusiks :)
Would it be the same techniques with two half ropes?
I'd just treat the two ropes as one personally :)
Belaying from Munter Hitch instead of ATC in guide mode, does it still allow you to pull the rope through in same way?
Flash backs to my MCI assessment where I learnt that it doesn't work with an Italian hitch...! The prussic gets all jammed up in the Italian. Realistically I think you'd have to change you're system and set up a separate hoist.
@@JBMountainSkills thought that might be the case, cheers. Would it be a case of taking load of live rope with French prussik attached to power point (like removing self from system) and then placing in an ATC?
That's one good option, the other would be to tie off the Italian and get another rope down to the climber and get them fixed on that, then rig the hoist as if that was their original climbing rope... uses a lot of rope though.
@@JBMountainSkills nice one thanks
woud you ever set up a 5-1 hoist? if for example i was weak and my partner was 20 stone. if so whats your technique?
Epic Video Jez. Is Hoisting part of the RCI System along as part of the escaping the system?.
No, it isn't. In the RCI the focus is on problem avoidance and instructor friendly systems. Because it's all about single pitch non tidal crags, it's always about going down with gravity.
Hi JB. Thanks for posting. I am not trying to sound like a troll, but your belay setup is sketchy. I have been climbing since 1987, big walls, sport, trad, aid, and even have some climbing device patents. You ALWAYS belay with a directional so that when your partner falls you are pulled up towards your anchor. Your belay setup is flawed because when your partner falls you get pulled DOWN. This tends to pull you off balance, especially when your anchor is not tight against your harness. Your natural instinct is to let go of the rope in an attempt to brace yourself. Also because the free end of the rope is hanging down there is considerably less friction in the system and regaining control of the rope will be a greater challenge. With a directional your rope's free end is passing behind you in a braking direction. Without the directional you have now lost control of the rope in an attempt to catch yourself, as your partner zips down the cliff face, and there is no way to stop him/her. I learned this as a novice when I set up without a directional and realized my ignorance after a firm scolding from my partner. I ask that you please take this misleading video down and post a new one with a proper belay setup. ALWAYS please pass the rope up, through a locker and back down to your belay device. You can use this for a hanging belay or on a ledge. Cheers.
If by “directional” you mean having the rope redirected back up to the belay when bringing up a second you’re incorrect.
Whilst this was fashionable for a while it actually increases the force on the belay due to the “pulley effect”.
I’m afraid you saying the belay is sketchy, and that instinct to let go of the rope etc is just incorrect.